Category: Travel Writing

A July Holiday in Saxony, Bohemia, and Silesia

What the Bookseller said -- A Walk in Frankfort -- What the Portress said -- Glimpses of Landscapes -- Forest and River -- Würzburg -- Stein Wine -- View from the Citadel-hill -- A Change of Bedrooms -- Coming to an Understanding with the Reader -- Good Night! 1

Chapters

35. CHAPTER V.

Across the Mulde -- Scenery -- Feet _versus_ Wheels -- Villages -- English Characteristics -- Timbered Houses -- Schneeberg -- Stones for Lamps -- The Way Sunday was Kept -- The...

51. CHAPTER XX.

Stephanshöh -- A Presumptuous Landlord -- Czechs again -- Stewed Weavers -- Prompt Civilities -- The Iser -- A Quiet Vale -- Barrande's Opinion of the Czechs -- Rochlitz -- An o...

49. CHAPTER XVIII.

A Hospitable Reception -- A Rustic Household -- The Mother's Talk -- Pressing Invitations -- A Docile Visitor -- The Family Room -- Trophies of Industry -- Overheating -- A Walk...

36. CHAPTER VI.

Dr. Fowler's Prescription -- Carlsbad -- "A Matlocky sort of a Place" -- Springs and Swallows -- Tasting the Water -- The Cliffs and Terraces -- Comical Signs -- The Wiese and i...

32. CHAPTER II.

Würzburg -- The University -- Red, Green, and Orange Caps -- The Marienkapelle -- The Market -- The Cathedral -- The Palace -- Spacious Cellars -- A Professor's Hospitality -- T...

40. CHAPTER X.

A Talk with the Landlord -- A Jew's Offer -- A Ride in a Wagen -- Talk with the Jew -- The Stars -- A Mysterious Gun-barrel -- An Alarm -- Stony Ammunition -- The Man with the G...

61. CHAPTER XXX.

A Word with the Reader -- From Herrnhut to Dresden -- A Gloomy City -- The Summer Theatre -- Trip to the Saxon Switzerland -- Wehlen -- Uttewalde Grund -- The Bastei -- Hochstei...

48. CHAPTER XVII.

Morning on the Milleschauer -- The Brightening Landscape -- The Mossy Quarters by Daylight -- Delightful Down-hill Walk -- Lobositz again -- The Steam-boat -- Queer Passengers -...

60. CHAPTER XXIX.

About Herrnhut -- Persecutions in Moravia -- A Wandering Carpenter -- Good Tidings -- Fugitives -- Squatters on the Hutberg -- Count Zinzendorf's Steward -- The First Tree -- Th...

50. CHAPTER XIX.

More Hospitality -- Farewells -- Cross Country Walk -- Steinschönau -- The Playbill -- Hayda -- All Glass-workers -- Away for the Mountains -- Zwickau -- Gabel -- Weisskirchen -...

53. CHAPTER XXII.

The Frontier Guard-house -- A Volunteer Guide -- A Knave -- Schatzlar -- Bernsdorf -- A Barefoot Philosopher -- A Weaver's Happiness -- Altendorf -- Queer Beer -- A Short Cut --...

55. CHAPTER XXIV.

Baked Chickens -- A Discussion -- Weckelsdorf -- More Rocks -- The Stone of Tears -- Death's Alley -- Diana's Bath -- The Minster -- Gang of Coiners -- The Bohdanetskis -- Going...

59. CHAPTER XXVIII.

Head-Quarters of the Moravians -- Good Buildings -- Quiet, Cleanliness, and Order -- A Gottesdienst -- The Church -- Simplicity -- The Ribbons -- A Requiem -- The Service -- God...

34. CHAPTER IV.

Zwickau -- Beer Bridge -- Beer Mount -- The Triller Estate -- Triller Bierbrauerei -- The Braumeister -- The Beer -- Four Hundredth Anniversary of the Prinzenraub -- A Friendly...

38. CHAPTER VIII.

Dawn -- The Noisy Gooseherd -- Geese, for Home Consumption and Export -- Still the Baron -- The Ruins of Hartenstein -- Glimpses of Scenery and Rural Life -- Liebkowitz -- Luben...

37. CHAPTER VII.

Departure from Carlsbad -- Dreifaltigkeits-Kirche -- Engelhaus -- The Castle -- A Melancholy Village -- Up to the Ruins -- An Imperial Visit -- Bohemian Scenery -- On to Buchau...

42. lid. And now and then, among all these, your eye is arrested by a

singular, wild-looking figure, whom you will think the strangest of all. He has lank black hair hanging to his shoulders from under a fluffy, round-crowned, broad-brimmed hat--o...

47. CHAPTER XVI.

Sunday Morning in Prague -- Gay Dresses -- Pleasure-seeking Citizens -- Service in the Hradschin Cathedral -- Prayers and Pranks -- Fun in the Organ-loft -- Glorious Music -- A...

31. CHAPTER I.

What the Bookseller said -- A Walk in Frankfort -- What the Portress said -- Glimpses of Landscapes -- Forest and River -- Würzburg -- Stein Wine -- View from the Citadel-hill -...

39. CHAPTER IX.

The Village -- The Peasant again -- The Road-mender -- Among the Czechs -- Czechish Speech and Characteristics -- Crosses -- Horosedl -- The Old Cook -- More Praise of England -...

33. CHAPTER III.

Origin of Altenburg -- Prosperous Burghers -- A Princely Crime -- Hussite Plunderers -- Luther's Visits -- French Bonfire -- Electress Margaret's Dream -- Kunz von Kauffungen --...

46. CHAPTER XV.

The Kolowratstrasse -- Picolomini's Palace -- The Museum -- Geological Affluence -- Early Czechish Bibles -- Rare Old Manuscripts -- Letters of Huss and Ziska -- Tabor Hill -- P...

52. CHAPTER XXI.

Comforts on the Koppe -- Samples of Germany -- Provincial Peculiarities -- Hilarity -- A Couplet worth remembering -- Four-bedded Rooms -- View from the Summit -- Contrast of Sc...

58. CHAPTER XXVII.

Hirschberg -- The Officers' Tomb -- A Night Journey -- Spiller -- Greifenberg -- Changing Horses -- A Royal Reply -- A Griffin's Nest -- Lauban -- The Potato Jubilee -- Görlitz...

57. CHAPTER XXVI.

The Three Berliners -- Strong Beer -- Origin of Warmbrunn -- St. John the Baptist's Day -- Count Schaffgotsch -- A Benefactor -- A Library -- Something about Warmbrunn -- The Ba...

56. CHAPTER XXV.

Schnaps and Sausage -- Dresdener upon Berliners -- The Prince's Castle at Fischbach -- A Home for the Princess Royal -- Is the Marriage Popular? -- View from the Tower -- Tradit...

44. CHAPTER XIII.

The Jewish Sabbath -- The Old Synagogue -- Traditions concerning it -- The Gloomy Interior -- The Priests -- The Worshippers and the Worship -- The Talkers -- The Book of the La...

45. CHAPTER XIV.

The Alte Friedhof -- A Stride into the Past -- The Old Tombs -- Vegetation and Death -- Haunted Graves -- Ancient Epitaph -- Rabbi Löw -- His Scholars -- Symbols of the Tribes -...

54. CHAPTER XXIII.

The Echo -- Wonderful Orchestra -- Magical Music -- A _Feu de joie_ -- The Oration -- The Voices -- Echo and the Humourist -- Satisfying the Guide -- Exploring the Labyrinth --...

43. CHAPTER XII.

From the Hradschin, with its imperial associations, living and dead, to an Old Clothes Market, is a change over which you may laugh or lament, according to your mood. If you hav...

41. CHAPTER XI.

The Hausknecht -- A Place to Lose Yourself -- Street-Phenomena -- Book-shops -- Glass-wares -- Cavernous Beer-houses -- Signs -- Czechish Names -- Ugly Women -- Swarms of Soldie...

30. CHAPTER XXX.

A Word with the Reader -- From Herrnhut to Dresden -- A Gloomy City -- The Summer Theatre -- Trip to the Saxon Switzerland -- Wehlen -- Uttewalde Grund -- The Bastei -- Hochstei...

20. CHAPTER XX.

Stephanshöh -- A Presumptuous Landlord -- Czechs again -- Stewed Weavers -- Prompt Civilities -- The Iser -- A Quiet Vale -- Barrande's Opinion of the Czechs -- Rochlitz -- An o...

10. CHAPTER X.

A Talk with the Landlord -- A Jew's Offer -- A Ride in a Wagen -- Talk with the Jew -- The Stars -- A Mysterious Gun-barrel -- An Alarm -- Stony Ammunition -- The Man with the G...

5. CHAPTER V.

Across the Mulde -- Scenery -- Feet _versus_ Wheels -- Villages -- English Characteristics -- Timbered Houses -- Schneeberg -- Stones for Lamps -- The Way Sunday was Kept -- The...

18. CHAPTER XVIII.

A Hospitable Reception -- A Rustic Household -- The Mother's Talk -- Pressing Invitations -- A Docile Visitor -- The Family Room -- Trophies of Industry -- Overheating -- A Walk...

11. CHAPTER XI.

The Hausknecht -- A Place to Lose Yourself -- Street-Phenomena -- Book-shops -- Glass-wares -- Cavernous Beer-houses -- Signs -- Czechish Names -- Ugly Women -- Swarms of Soldie...

17. CHAPTER XVII.

Morning on the Milleschauer -- The Brightening Landscape -- The Mossy Quarters by Daylight -- Delightful Down-hill Walk -- Lobositz again -- The Steam-boat -- Queer Passengers -...

6. CHAPTER VI.

Dr. Fowler's Prescription -- Carlsbad -- "A Matlocky sort of a Place" -- Springs and Swallows -- Tasting the Water -- The Cliffs and Terraces -- Comical Signs -- The Wiese and i...

24. CHAPTER XXIV.

Baked Chickens -- A Discussion -- Weckelsdorf -- More Rocks -- The Stone of Tears -- Death's Alley -- Diana's Bath -- The Minster -- Gang of Coiners -- The Bohdanetskis -- Going...

28. CHAPTER XXVIII.

Head-Quarters of the Moravians -- Good Buildings -- Quiet, Cleanliness, and Order -- A Gottesdienst -- The Church -- Simplicity -- The Ribbons -- A Requiem -- The Service -- God...

2. CHAPTER II.

Würzburg -- The University -- Red, Green, and Orange Caps -- The Marienkapelle -- The Market -- The Cathedral -- The Palace -- Spacious Cellars -- A Professor's Hospitality -- T...

4. CHAPTER IV.

Zwickau -- Beer Bridge -- Beer Mount -- The Triller Estate -- Triller Bierbrauerei -- The Braumeister -- The Beer -- Four Hundredth Anniversary of the Prinzenraub -- A Friendly...

29. CHAPTER XXIX.

About Herrnhut -- Persecutions in Moravia -- A Wandering Carpenter -- Good Tidings -- Fugitives -- Squatters on the Hutberg -- Count Zinzendorf's Steward -- The First Tree -- Th...

22. CHAPTER XXII.

The Frontier Guard-house -- A Volunteer Guide -- A Knave -- Schatzlar -- Bernsdorf -- A Barefoot Philosopher -- A Weaver's Happiness -- Altendorf -- Queer Beer -- A Short Cut --...

16. CHAPTER XVI.

Sunday Morning in Prague -- Gay Dresses -- Pleasure-seeking Citizens -- Service in the Hradschin Cathedral -- Prayers and Pranks -- Fun in the Organ-loft -- Glorious Music -- A...

7. CHAPTER VII.

Departure from Carlsbad -- Dreifaltigkeits-Kirche -- Engelhaus -- The Castle -- A Melancholy Village -- Up to the Ruins -- An Imperial Visit -- Bohemian Scenery -- On to Buchau...

8. CHAPTER VIII.

Dawn -- The Noisy Gooseherd -- Geese, for Home Consumption and Export -- Still the Baron -- The Ruins of Hartenstein -- Glimpses of Scenery and Rural Life -- Liebkowitz -- Luben...

26. CHAPTER XXVI.

The Three Berliners -- Strong Beer -- Origin of Warmbrunn -- St. John the Baptist's Day -- Count Schaffgotsch -- A Benefactor -- A Library -- Something about Warmbrunn -- The Ba...

19. CHAPTER XIX.

More Hospitality -- Farewells -- Cross Country Walk -- Steinschönau -- The Playbill -- Hayda -- All Glass-workers -- Away for the Mountains -- Zwickau -- Gabel -- Weisskirchen -...

27. CHAPTER XXVII.

Hirschberg -- The Officers' Tomb -- A Night Journey -- Spiller -- Greifenberg -- Changing Horses -- A Royal Reply -- A Griffin's Nest -- Lauban -- The Potato Jubilee -- Görlitz...

3. CHAPTER III.

Origin of Altenburg -- Prosperous Burghers -- A Princely Crime -- Hussite Plunderers -- Luther's Visits -- French Bonfire -- Electress Margaret's Dream -- Kunz von Kauffungen --...

9. CHAPTER IX.

The Village -- The Peasant again -- The Road-mender -- Among the Czechs -- Czechish Speech and Characteristics -- Crosses -- Horosedl -- The Old Cook -- More Praise of England -...

25. CHAPTER XXV.

Schnaps and Sausage -- Dresdener upon Berliners -- The Prince's Castle at Fischbach -- A Home for the Princess Royal -- Is the Marriage Popular? -- View from the Tower -- Tradit...

21. CHAPTER XXI.

Comforts on the Koppe -- Samples of Germany -- Provincial Peculiarities -- Hilarity -- A Couplet worth remembering -- Four-bedded Rooms -- View from the Summit -- Contrast of Sc...

15. CHAPTER XV.

The Kolowratstrasse -- Picolomini's Palace -- The Museum -- Geological Affluence -- Early Czechish Bibles -- Rare Old Manuscripts -- Letters of Huss and Ziska -- Tabor Hill -- P...

23. CHAPTER XXIII.

The Echo -- Wonderful Orchestra -- Magical Music -- A _Feu de joie_ -- The Oration -- The Voices -- Echo and the Humourist -- Satisfying the Guide -- Exploring the Labyrinth --...

1. CHAPTER I.

What the Bookseller said -- A Walk in Frankfort -- What the Portress said -- Glimpses of Landscapes -- Forest and River -- Würzburg -- Stein Wine -- View from the Citadel-hill -...

13. CHAPTER XIII.

The Jewish Sabbath -- The Old Synagogue -- Traditions concerning it -- The Gloomy Interior -- The Priests -- The Worshippers and the Worship -- The Talkers -- The Book of the La...

14. CHAPTER XIV.

The Alte Friedhof -- A Stride into the Past -- The Old Tombs -- Vegetation and Death -- Haunted Graves -- Ancient Epitaph -- Rabbi Löw -- His Scholars -- Symbols of the Tribes -...

12. CHAPTER XII.