Part 4

We have at length escap'd the waggoners & Mr Beach- The former did not trouble us last night at all in the night- When we went to bed they watch'd us narrowly, & after we were in bed we heard them talking about us, enquiring of each other where we slept &c- We were in the room with M^r & M^{rs} Wolcott, directly over the room they were in, but still I felt afraid of them- The worst one is quite mad, & says he intends if possible, to give us more trouble than he has done already- The other is quite asham'd of his conduct & I suspect would be willing to make any amends in his power- He told this to M^{rs} Jackson who is much too familiar with them, & I believe it was owing entirely to that, that they conducted so- for the rest of us always avoid even the sight of them, as much as possible; & much more any conversation with them-- We got up very early indeed & set out before breakfast, because the horses could have no hay, & we have got quite out of their reach--We cross'd a little stream call'd the Juniaatta- I spell the names as they are pronounced, but I do not spell them right, I am sure, nor can I find out how they are spelt many of them- The river is long & narrow- It takes a winding course thro' the mountains, & is a very pretty stream-- We rode some distance on its banks, & the road been tolerable, it would have been pleasant- I have said so much about the badness of the roads that you will hardly believe me when I tell you we seen some of the worst to day we have ever found- & some, as good as any in this state---- I should not have suppos'd it possible for any thing to pass it- M^{rs} W said it seem'd like going into the lower regions, but I had always an idea, that road was smooth & easy- I am sure if it was as bad as that, it would have fewer travellers-We went down however till we came to a lower region-It was really awful-- We saw some men to day, mending the roads- I did not think a Pennsylvanian ever touch'd a road or made a bridge, for we are oblig'd to ride thro' every stream we come to-We have been nearly 20 miles to day; & have been oblig'd to walk up hill, till we are all very tir'd- I felt too much so to write, but I am unwilling to omit it- We are now, comfortably & quietly seated, in a private house- I only wish now, we could get rid of what company we have left- but that we cannot do----

Wednesday night. A private house-10 miles w- of Bedford

We cross'd the Juniaatta again to day, with a great deal of trouble, after waiting on its banks about 3 hours- It is astonishing how the last week's rain, rais'd every stream & overflow'd every place-The like here, has not been known for 30 years it is said-- A waggoner last week, with 4 horses, was drown'd crossing a creek- He was advis'd by those who were by, not to venture- & answer'd "he would be damn'd to hell if he did not cross it"- he made the attempt & in a few minutes was sent into eternity, & probably to that awful place---- It has been raining very fast this afternoon, & we put up at a little log hut, a few miles west of Bedford- we came about 10 miles to day- The house is very small & there is scarcely room to move-

Thursday night-- Allegany M^{tn} Nov- 16-

We have had a warm & pleasant day till towards night, when it began to rain, as it has done every day for a fortnight- We are now at a tavern half a mile from the top of the Allegany Mt-this Mountain is 14 miles over- At the highest part of it is a most beautiful prospect of mountains- 5 or 6 ridges one after the other-- We clamber'd up a high rock near to the highest part, but found the prospect little better than the one from the road- I wish I could describe it to you- We have had no prospect of any consequence from any of the mountains before- I have been quite disappointed at not seeing any--We found winter green berrys in abundance on it-I pick'd a sprig of ivy from the top, which I will send you- call it laurel & preserve it, as it came from the very _backbone of America_, as they all tell us--We have walk'd a great deal to day, & indeed we are oblig'd to every day, for the whole country seems one continued m^{tn}- I thought we had reach'd the top of this, for we began to descend a little; but we have half a mile more to ascend yet---- This house is full of travvellers & wag'^{nrs} but all are very peacable-There is a curiosity in the house- a young lady who has come from N Connecticut _unmarried_-- after staying in Warren a year--a thing I never before heard of, & had begun to think impossible. I feel quite encouraged by it- & do not believe the place as dangerous as is generally reported---- I find in every family a _Paggy_- every body is dutch-- the children & girls, are all very much attracted by my little black buttons, & the manner in which my frock is made-& the Wag'^{rs} by the colour of it- There will be little of it left by the time I get to Warren, for it is almost gone--

Friday night- Allegany M^{tn}--

After a comfortable nights rest, we set out on foot to reach the height of the m^{tn}- It rain'd fast for a long time, & at length began snowing- We found the roads bad past description,- worse than you can possibly imagine- Large stones & deep mud holes every step of the way- We were oblig'd to walk as much as we possibly could, as the horses could scarcely stir the waggon the mud was so deep & the stones so large---- It has grown so cold that I fear we shall all perish tomorrow- We suffer'd with cold excessively, to day- From what I have seen and heard, I think the State of Ohio will be well fill'd before winter,-Waggons without number, every day go on- One went on containing _forty_ people- We almost every day, see them with 18 or 20- one stopt here to night with 21-- We are at a baker's, near a tavern which is fill'd with movers & waggoners- It is a comfortable place, but rather small- One old man has been in examining my writing, & giving his opinion of it in dutch, to a young fellow who was with him- He said he could not read a word of any thing-- He found fault with the ink, but commended the straitness & facility with which I wrote- in english- I was glad he had not on his specs---- We came but 10 miles to day, & are yet on the Allegany- It is up hill almost all the way down the mountains-- I do not know when we are down them for my part--_I'm thinking_ as they say here, we shall be oblig'd to winter on it, for I _reckon_ we shall be unable to proceed on our journey, on account of roads, weather, &c-- We are on the old Pennsylvania road- the Glade road is said to be ten times worse than this-That is utterly impossible- We thought we should escape the waggoners this way; but find as many of them as ever- they are a very great annoyance---- What would the old man say hereto?-- I am very tir'd, so good night--

Saturday eve-2 miles from Laurel Hill-Penn-

We came but 9 or 10 miles to day, & are now near the 6^{th} Mountain- in a tavern fill'd with half drunken noisy waggoners-- One of them lies singing directly before the fire; proposing just now to call for a song from the young ladies---- I can neither think nor write he makes so much noise with his _love songs_; I am every moment expecting something dreadful & dare not lay down my pen lest they should think me listening to them- They are the very worst wretches that ever liv'd, I do believe,--I am out of all patience with them- The whole world nor any thing in it, would tempt me to stay in this State three months- I dislike everything belonging to it--I am not so foolish as to suppose there are no better people in it than those we have seen; but let them be ever so good, I never desire to see any of them----We overtook an old waggoner whose waggon had got set in the mud, & I never heard a creature swear so- & whipt his horses till I thought they would die--I could not but wonder at the patience and forbearance of the Almighty, whose awful name was so blasphem'd-- We also overtook a young _Doctor_-who is going with his father to Mad river in the state of Ohio---- He has been studying physic in New Jersey,- but appears to be an uneducated man from the language he makes use of----I believe both himself & his father are very clever- I heard them reproving a swearer-- He dresses smart, & was so polite as to assist us in getting over the mud-- Susan & I walk'd on before the waggon as usual, & he overtook us and invited us into the house & call'd for some brandy sling- we did not drink, which he appear'd not to like very well, & has scarcely spoken to us since---- He thinks himself a gentleman of the _first chop_, & takes the liberty of coining words for himself- Speaking of the people in this state, he said they were very ignorant & very _superstitionary_ --perhaps you have heard the word before- I never did--

Sunday morn- We had good beds last night, contrary to my expectation,- and we are going on our journey this morning- It is extremely cold & very bad riding or walking- M^r W- has been so long detain'd by bad weather & riding, that he thinks himself justifiable in riding on the sabbath- I thought so some time ago--

Sunday noon- We are on the top of Laurel Hill, the 6^{th} mountain-- We women & girls, have walk'd between 5 & 6 miles this morning-- We left the waggons getting along very slowly, & came on to a house to warm us- It is a log hut & full of children, as is every one we come to-- The wind whistles about us, & it looks very much like snow---- One waggon got set this morning, & hinder'd us this long time-- The young Doctor & his father are still in company with us-- The former, who has got over his pouting fit, leaves his father to drive,- while he walks on with the ladies- he is not with us just now-- He has not conquer'd the antipathy I bear a young physician-- or rather a _young Doctor_-- How little it seems like the sabbath-- I would not write if I could do any thing else-- but I can not even think good thoughts----

Sunday eve-- Nov-19^{th}-- Foot of Laurel Hill--Penn--

I wish my dear Elizabeth, you could be here for half an hour, & hear the strangest man talk, that you or I ever saw in this world-- He is either mad or a fool-- I don't know which, but he looking over me & telling me I _can_ make a writer-- He is the most rating, ranting fellow-- I wish you could hear him----I begin to think him mad-- His name is Smith-- He & his wife are journeying either to New Orleans or the Ohio---- I never was more diverted than to hear him (he is certainly crazy-- repeating a prayer & a sermon & forty other things in a breath) talk about the Dutchmen in Pennsylvania-- He & his wife came amongst them one evening & stopt at several houses to get entertainment, but was sent on by each one to the tavern-- He began by stating his religious tenets, & at length after every body & thing was created, he says the _under Gods_ (of whom he supposes there were a great number) took some of the skum & stir'd it up, & those fellows came out--or rather Hell boil'd over & they were form'd of the skum----I believe he has been studying all his life for hard words & pompous speeches, & he rattled them off at a strange rate-- His language is very ungrammatical--but the Jacksons are all in raptures with him--They cannot understand his language (nor indeed could any one else) & therefore concluded he must be very learned- Their observations are almost as diverting as his conversation- I could make them believe in ten minutes, that I was a girl of great larnin-if I were to say over Kermogenious- Heterogenious & a few such words without any connection--no matter if I do but bring them in some how-- We are over the 6^{th} mountain & at an Inn at the foot of it- This m^{tn} is called worse than any of them- it is only about 6 miles over- We have only come 8 to day, & I have not been in the waggon- The horses once or twice got set, & cast &c- we have had a deal of bad luck-- There is a great many travellers here-the house is full---- The young D^r told me he was married, to day-- I like him rather better than I did, before, & ventured to walk on a mile or two with him- He gave me the history of his courtship &c-and some information respecting the part of Ohio he is going to, that was quite interesting-- Susan chose to ride down the hill, & I outwalk'd M^{rs} W, so we were quite alone till we reach'd this house- M^{rs} Jackson & Eliza had gone on before us, and I every moment expected to overtake them, but did not see them till we got here-- I am very tir'd & have laughed myself into a headache; so I can write no more to night.

Monday morn- Last night we were again cheated out of our beds, & oblig'd to pass the night as we could, & that was most uncomfortably- I was quite unwell with the headache, & had waited for a bed an hour & a half longer than I felt able to set up; & when I found I could get none, I had a long crying spell-- This morning I feel almost sick-- M^r W-is so much afraid of making trouble, that he will wait till every body else is served, & let them cheat him out of his eyes, & say nothing. Our party here consists of English, Irish, German, & Americans-2 of the first- 4 of the second- 1 of the third- & a house full of the last-- This strange man is an everlasting talker- He knows every body & every thing about them- He has been repeating one of M^r Pierpont Edwards' speeches to me- & one of M^r Hilhouse's-Not one second elapses between his words-He is a very pompous fellow & takes great pains to display what he does know- He has been a schoolmaster-& now I suspect is crazy & running away with a girl he calls his wife- but who seems to be nobody---- It rain'd very fast last night- & is more muddy than ever--

Monday night- a mile west of the mountains-

Rejoice with me my dear Elizabeth, that we are at length over all the mountains, so call'd-- I do not suppose we shall be much better off than we were before, as it respects roads- for I had just as lieve go over a mountain, as to go over the same distance of any part of the road we have had this fortnight or three weeks- But it sounds well to say we are over the mountains-- We cross'd Chesnut Ridge, the 7th & last M^{tn} this afternoon- It is 5 miles over--12 miles we have come to day-- There is a pretty prospect of hills as you come down the M^{tn}- One house on the top of it-- We have taken a great deal of pains to get rid of company to day, by going forward & staying behind- but it is an _unpossibility_ (M^r Newington) I am more out of patience than ever-- We came on to the 4^{th} tavern after we got down,- because we thought those behind us, would stop sooner- M^{rs} Jackson & her tribe were with us-but we thought all the rest were out of the reach of us- This is a little hut, one window in front- but it is neat & comfortable inside, & we were all quietly seated round the fire, congratulating ourselves on our escape, when in came the young doctor- I thought we should all scream out- M^{rs} Jackson told him she thought we had lost him- he said he lik'd not to have found us- I wish with all my heart, they had got fast in the mud a little while. The rattlebrain'd fellow is not here, to talk us to death-- He pass'd us on the road, singing & screaming, advising us to go back & learn hog latin- alias German- or dutch-- We are now 41 miles from Pitt----

Nov^{br} 21^{st} Tuesday Night-A mile from Greensburg-Penn-

We have had better roads to day, but only came 10 miles-- Last night we had good beds, but were oblig'd to sleep in the room with the D^r & his father-M^r & M^{rs} W- of course, as we have determin'd not to sleep out of their room again-- The landlord & his wife were extremely clever- they gave us a great many apples & some cherry bounce- Such treatment, after being refus'd even the privilege of getting any victuals,- as we were the night before, was very welcome-- The landlord has been a waggoner-"Only look at that now"-A clever waggoner! I cannot but think his cleverness (is there such a word?) came after he gave up his waggon---- After riding a little way, we overtook M^r Smith again, & found he had been fighting with a waggoner, who began to insult him, by calling him a damn'd Yankee-before they ended M^r S- whipt 3 of them- I was glad they got whipt, for almost every one deserves it-- M^r S- lamented we were not there to see the fun- He declar'd, or rather swore, he would not leave us again, but would stand by and fight for all- He lets his wife ride alone, & he walks on to talk to every one that will listen to him-- As for the D^r, he is "nothing but a pester"- Susan & I took a great deal of pains to go either before or behind to get rid of his company, but it does no good, for he will either wait, or walk faster- I had a great mind to ask him, if he expected to lose his wife soon-We pass'd thro Greensburg, a pretty little town, situated on a high hill- the other waggons had gone on, & were bating in the town- but M^r W- did not stop, so the D^r follow'd on & left his father, & waited at another place for us to bait- We were only able to come a mile farther, as the horses fail'd-The rest of the company had gone on, expecting us to follow- The D^r came in here with us & I thought intended to stay, by his actions, but he at length walk'd on to join the rest of his company-- We have escap'd hearing M^r S- talk, which I would not be oblig'd to do for 9 pence an hour-

Wednesday morn- I have not spent so pleasant an evening this long time as the last- Will you believe me, when I tell you we heard some waggoners conversing upon religious subjects- instead of swearing & cursing- One is an Irish waggoner, & appears to be sensible, well inform'd man- & what is more, has read his bible- 2 clever waggoners! I think I will never condemn a whole race again- I can now, even believe it possible to find a clever Dutchman in Pennsylvania. I hope we shall lose all our company this morning- but I expect they will wait for us- This is a good tavern- We have had sun shine for 2 days past- The weather, as it respects heat & cold, is very variable- but it invariably rains every day--

Thursday Morn- Sewel's tavern-Versailes-township-

Yesterday morning, we did not set out till quite late, but had the good fortune to overtake all our company within an hour or two, & were oblig'd once more to put up with them- We had also, a considerable addition to our party-- We were oblig'd to walk a great deal, & just at night, I happen'd to be on before the waggon some distance & prevented M^r W- from stopping at a private house, which we pass'd- I did not think of his wishing it till M^{rs} J-mentioned it, I then set out to return, but saw the waggon coming & sat down on a log- We did not reach a tavern till some time after dark- & M^r W-got hurt & his waggon got set-, & he feels unpleasantly towards me, & thinks me the whole cause of his trouble-- The whole family feel & treat me differently this morning, & I can not think myself to blame- for we are oblig'd to walk almost all the time, & if we are behind the waggon M^r W- always is angry-- M^{rs} W- Susan & I, were oblig'd to walk, till we found a house, & if the young D^r had not been with us, I don't know but we should have pass'd the night in the woods - but he was so good as to assist us - The gentlemen all reach'd the tavern before us, & when M^r W- came & told his trouble, they very kindly went back & assisted him-- There were but two beds to be had, so M^r Smith gave up his place to me, & M^r & M^{rs} W took the other-- The gentlemen were very noisy all night, as they could not lie down-- I am much better pleas'd with M^r & M^{rs} Smith, than I was before- He is a lawyer- & I believe knows more, than I at first suspected-- He is a great talker, & has a story for everything- We came 14 miles yesterday-- To day I am so dreadfully lame that every step I take, almost brings tears- my feet are sore with walking-

Nov-24- Friday morn- Turtle Creek-Penn-

One misfortune follows another, and I fear we shall never reach our journey's end-- Yesterday we came about 3 miles-- After coming down an awful hill, we were oblig'd to cross a creek; but before we quite came to it, the horses got mired, & we expected every moment one of them would die-but Erastus held his head out of water, while M^r W-was attempting to unharness them, & M^{rs} W- & Susan were on the bank, calling for help-- I sat by, to see the horse breathe his last; but was happily disappointed in my expectation-- No assistance could be got- till M^r W- waded though the water, & then 2 men with 3 horses came over-- We came to this Inn, & M^r W- thought it best to stay till this morning- All our company have gone on- M^r Smith invited me to ride with his wife, on to Pitts'^g- & I on some accounts, wish I had accepted his invitation-indeed I could scarcely get beside it--

We found a gentleman (Doctor I presume by his looks-) here, who was very sociable & staid an hour with us- He appear'd to be a man of good information & considerable politeness-- We found the landlord very good natur'd & obliging, & his wife directly the contrary-- We find the men generally, much more so than their wives-- We are 12 miles from Pitt----& here like to be- The landlord offers to keep Susan & me, till spring, & let the old folks go on-- We got into the slough of Despond yesterday-& are now at the foot of the hill Difficulty- which is half a mile long- one waggon is already fast in the mud on it- & M^r W- is afraid to attempt it himself--I think I will winter here----

Friday eve- 9 miles past Pitts'^g- Penn-

This morning we set out once more & proceeded 4 miles- It was snowing very fast, & one of our horses was taken sick & could scarcely get that little distance-M^r W- was oblig'd to whip it almost every step to keep it from lying down-- We could not ride at all & stopt at the first tavern we came to--We are afraid the horse will die & then what will become of us?---- I am more than ever discouraged-

Sat-morn- Our horse is better & we are going to set out again----

Nov^{br} 26- Saturday night- 3-1/2 miles beyond Pittsburg-

Just as we were getting into the waggon this morning, M^r W- found he had left his great coat 4 miles back, & went back on foot after it, while we proceeded to Pitts- which we reach'd about noon-- M^r W- came about an hour after---- After getting well warm, Susan & I were going out to view the town, when M^r W- came & hurried us away, as he wished to cross the river before night- From the little we did see of the town, I was extremely disappointed at its appearance- It is not one half as large as I suppos'd- but I am unable to give you any account of it, from my own observation-- It is situated at the confluence of the 2 rivers, the Alleghany, & Monongahela- The town suffer'd very much by the flood- One house floated down the river- its inhabitants were in the upper part of it calling for assistance-none could be render'd & what became of them I did not learn- I believe it is not known- It was late before we could cross the river (Alleghany) & we came on but 3 miles & a half to a very good tavern- The man & his wife are both good natur'd--We found the road to day, better than for a long time-- We left almost all the stones when we cross'd the last mountain- & to day I believe we have cross'd the last hills of any consequence- We are now- "on the banks of the pleasant Ohio"----