Part 2

We yesterday travell'd the worst road you can imagine- over mountains & thro' vallies- We have not I believe, had 20 rods of level ground the whole day- and the road some part of it so intolerably bad on every account, so rocky & so gullied, as to be almost impassable- 15 miles this side Morristown, we cross'd a mountain call'd Schyler or something like it- We walk'd up it, & M^{rs} W told us it was a little like some of the mountains only not half so bad--indeed every difficulty we meet with is compar'd to something worse that we have yet to expect- We found a house built in the heart of the mountain near some springs- in a romantic place-Whether the springs are medicinal or not, I do not know- but I suspect they are, & that the house is built for the accommodation of those who go to them- for no human creature, I am sure, would wish to live there- Opposite the house are stairs on the side of the mountain & a small house resembling a bathing house, at the head of them-- Soon after we cross'd the mountain, we took a wrong road, owing to the neglect of those whose duty it is to erect guide boards, & to some awkward directions given-- This gave us a great deal of trouble, for we were oblig'd in order to get right again, to go across a field where the stones were so large & so thick that we scarcely touch'd the ground the whole distance- At last the road seem'd to end in a hogs pen, but we found it possible to get round it, & once more found ourselves right again- We met very few people, yet the road seem'd to have been a great deal travelled- One young man came along & caus'd us some diversion, for he eyed us very closely & then enter'd into conversation with M^r W who was walking a little forward-He told him he should himself set out next week for Pittsburg- & we expect to see him again before we get there-- Erastus enquir'd the road of him & he said we must go the same way he did; so we follow'd on till we put up for the night; he walking his horse all the way & looking back at the waggon-As soon as we came to the inn he sat on his horse at the door till he saw us all quietly seated in the house & then rode off- Which of us made a conquest I know not, but I am sure one of us did----We have pass'd thro' but 2 towns in N J- but several small villages- Dutch valley, between some high hills & the Mountain- Batestown, where we stopt to _bait_-& some others- all too small to deserve a name- At last we stopt at Mansfield at an Inn kept by Philip fits (a little f). We found it kept by 2 young women, whom I thought _amazoons_- for they swore & flew about "like _witches_" they talk & laugh'd about their sparks &c &c till it made us laugh so as almost to affront them- There was a young woman visiting them who reminded me of Lady Di Spanker-for sprung from the ground to her horse with as much agility as that Lady could have done-- They all took their pipes before tea---- one of them appears to be very unhappy- I believe she has a very cross husband if she is married- She has a baby & a pretty one-- Their manners soften'd down after a while & they appear to be obliging & good natur'd----

Pennsylvania- Saturday eve- 2 miles from Bethlehem- Hanover- Oct 27^{th}

Before I write you anything I will tell you where & how we are- We are at a dutch tavern almost crazy- In one corner of the room are a set of dutchmen talking singin & laughing in dutch so loud, that my brain is almost turn'd- they one moment catch up a fiddle & I expect soon to be pulled up to dance- I am so afraid of them I dare hardly stay in the house one night; much less over the sabbath- I cannot write so good night--

Sunday Morn-

I have hesitated a long time whether I ought to write or not, & have at length concluded I may as well write as anything else, for I cannot read or listen to Deacon W who is reading- for I am almost distracted. We have determin'd (or rather M^r W has & we must do as he says) to spend the Sabbath among these wicked wretches- It would not be against my conscience to ride to day rather than stay here, for we can do no good & get none- & how much harm they may do us I know not- but they look as if they had sufficient inclination to do us evil--

Sunday eve- Sundown-

I can wait no longer to write you, for I have a great deal to say- I should not have thought it possible to pass a Sabbath in our country among such a dissolute vicious set of wretches as we are now among--I believe at least 50 dutchmen have been here to day to smoke, drink, swear, pitch cents, almost dance, laugh & talk dutch & stare at us- They come in, in droves young & old- black & white- women & children- It is dreadful to see so many people that you cannot speak to or understand-- They are all high dutch, but I hope not a true specimen of the Pennsylvanians generally-- Just as we set down to tea, in came a dozen or two of women, each with a child in her arms, & stood round the room- I did not know but they had come in a body to claim me as one of their kin, for they all resemble me- but as they said nothing to me, I concluded they came to see us _Yankees_, as they would a learned pig-- The women dress in striped linsey woolsey petticoats & short gowns not 6 inches in length- they look very strangely- The men dress much better- they put on their best cloaths on sunday, which I suppose is their only holiday, & "keep it up" as they call it-- A stage came on from Bethlehem & stopt here, with 2 girls & a well dress'd _fellow_ who sat between them an arm round each-- They were probably going to the next town to a dance or a frolic of some kind-for the driver, who was very familiar with them, said he felt just right for a frolic-- I suspect more liquor has been sold to day than all the week besides-- The children have been calling us Yankees (which is the only english word they can speak) all day long-Whether it was meant as a term of derision or not, I neither know nor care- of this I am sure, they cannot feel more contempt for me than I do for them;-tho' I most sincerely pity their ignorance & folly- There seems to be no hope of their improvement as they will not attend to any means- After saying so much about the people, I will describe our yesterday's ride- but first I will describe our last nights lodging- Susan & me ask'd to go to bed- & Mrs W spoke to M^r Riker the landlord-(for no woman was visible)- So he took up a candle to light us & we ask'd M^{rs} W to go up with us, for we did not dare go alone- when we got into a room he went to the bed & open'd it for us, while we were almost dying with laughter, & then stood waiting with the candle for us to get into bed- but M^{rs} W- as soon as she could speak, told him she would wait & bring down the candle & he then left us- I never laugh'd so heartily in my life- Our bed to sleep on was straw, & then a feather bed for covering- The pillows contain'd nearly a single handful of feathers, & were cover'd with the most curious & dirty patchwork, I ever saw-We had one bedquilt & one sheet- I did not undress at all, for I expected dutchmen in every moment & you may suppose slept very comfortably in that expectation----M^r & M^{rs} W, & another woman slept in the same room- When the latter came to bed, the man came in & open'd her bed also, after we were all in bed in the middle of the night, I was awaken'd by the entrance of three dutchmen, who were in search of a bed- I was almost frightened to death- but M^r W at length heard & stopt them before they had quite reach'd our bed- Before we were dress'd the men were at the door- which could not fasten, looking at us- I think _wild Indians_ will be less terrible to me, than these creatures- Nothing vexes me more than to see them set & look at us & talk in dutch and laugh-- Now for our ride- After we left Mansfield, we cross'd the longest hills, and the worst road, I ever saw- two or three times after riding a little distance on turnpike, we found it fenced across & were oblig'd to turn into a wood where it was almost impossible to proceed- large trees were across, not the road for there was none, but the only place we could possibly ride- It appear'd to me, we had come to an end of the habitable part of the globe- but all these difficulties were at last surmounted, & we reach'd the Delaware- The river where it is cross'd, is much smaller than I suppos'd- The bridge over it is elegant I think-- It is covered & has 16 windows each side-- As soon as we pass'd the bridge, we enter'd Easton, the first town in Pennsylvania- It is a small but pleasant town- the houses are chiefly small, & built of stone- very near together- The meeting house, Bank, & I think, market, are all of the same description- There are a few very handsome brick houses, & some wooden buildings--From Easton, we came to Bethlehem, which is 12 miles distant from it- M^r W. went a mile out of his way, that we might see the town- It contains almost entirely dutch people-- The houses there are nearly all stone- but like Easton it contains some pretty brick houses- It has not half as many stores as Easton---- The meeting house is a curious building-it looks like a castle- I suppose it is stone,- the outside is plaister'd- We left our waggon to view the town- we did not know whether the building was a church or the moravian school, so we enquir'd of 2 or 3 men who only answer'd in dutch- M^r & M^{rs} W were purchasing bread, & Susan & I walk'd on to enquire- we next saw a little boy on horseback, & he could only say "me cannot english" but he I believe, spoke to another, for a very pretty boy came near us & bow'd & expecting us to speak, which we soon did; & he pointed out the school & explained the different buildings to us as well as he was able; but we found it difficult to understand him, for he could but just "english"- We felt very much oblig'd to him, though we neglected to tell him so- He is the only polite dutchman small or great, we have yet seen; & I am unwilling to suppose him a _dutchman_. The school buildings are low, long stone houses- the stone houses are not at all handsome- but rather ugly--Where we stopt to bait yesterday, we found another waggon containing a widow Jackson, her 2 sons & a daughter in law- They enquir'd where we were going & told us they were going to the same place & immediately join'd our party- We were sorry as we did not wish an addition to our party, & thought by not travvelling on sunday we should lose their company, but rather than lose ours, they wait till monday-They are very clever people apparently, & we may possibly be benefited by them before we end our journey--We now find the benefit of having our own provision- for I would not eat anything we could get here.

Monday morn-October 29-

It rains & we shall have a dismal day I am afraid-M^r W's harness last night was very much injur'd by being chew'd to pieces by a cow- I have broken my parasol handle a little, but it will not much injure it-I have a bad cold to day- which I know not how I have taken- I more than ever wish to reach Warren--

Pennsylvania- Monday-eve- A Dutchman's inn- I dont know where. Palks County-or some thing like it--

We have only pass'd thro' 2 small towns to day, Allenstown & Kluztown- The former is about 3 miles from Hannover, where we spent the sabbath, & 6 from Bethlehem- Before we enter'd the town, we cross'd the Lehi in 2 places- It was not deep, & we forded it to save time & _expence_- It runs I believe through Bethlehem or at the side of it & is a very small river- Allentown is not a pleasant place-The houses are almost all stone- It contains 2 small stone churches- We went into a store, where I bought me a coarse tooth comb for 15 cents- I should never get accustom'd to the Pensylvania currency- It diverts me to hear them talk of their fippenny bits (as they pronounce it) & their eleven penny bits-- Kluztown is but a few miles from Allentown-It has but one short street which is very thickly built with Stone & log houses-- It is rather a dirty street & not more pleasant than the others Stone is used for everything in this state- The barns & houses are almost entirely built of it- I imagine the dutch pride themselves on building good barns, for a great many of them are very elegant- they are 3 & 4 stories high, have windows & one or 2. I saw with blinds- They are larger & handsomer than most of the houses- The dutch women are all out as we pass, dressing flax, picking up apples &c &c-The dress of the women grows worse & worse-We find them now with very short petticoats, no short gown & barefoot-- The country is not pleasant, at least does not appear so as we ride thro' it at all- I should think the land must be good as we see large fields of grain very frequently- There does not appear to be as much fruit as in N Y & N J--We saw immense quantities of apples in each of those states, particularly N J- there would be thousands of bushels at the cider presses, & still the trees would be borne down with them-- The roads in this state are pretty good, where, dame Nature has not undertaken to pave them- but she has so much other business on hand that she has never learn'd to pave, & makes a wretched hand at it- I wish she could be persuaded to leave it to Art for the future; for we are very great sufferers for her work- It is quite amusing to see the variety of paintings on the innkeeper's signs- I saw one in N J with Tho^s Jeff'^{ns} head & shoulders & his name above it- to day I saw Gen G Washington- his name underneath- Gen Putnam riding down the steps at Horseneck- one sign was merely 3 little kegs hanging down one after the other- They have the sun rising, setting, & at Meridian, here a full moon, a new moon, the moon & 7 stars around her, the Lion & Unicorn "fighting &c", & every thing else that a dutchman has ever seen or heard of- I do not believe one of them has wit enough to invent any thing, even for a sign----Several of these creatures sit by Jabbering dutch so fast, that my brain is turn'd & my thoughts distracted, & I wonder I have been able to write a word- If you find it unintelligible you must not wonder or blame me- A dozen will talk at once & it is really intolerable- I wish Uncle Porter was here-How can I live among them 3 weeks? We have come about 24 miles to day- it rain'd a very little this morning & the rest of the day has been quite pleasant tho' somewhat cold- Tomorrow we pass thro' Reading--

Wednesday Oct^ber 31^st Highdleburg-Penn-

We pass'd through Reading yesterday which is one of the largest & prettiest towns I have seen-We stopt about 2 hours in the town, & I improved my time in walking about to see it- I went into the stores enquiring for a scissor case- Almost every one could talk english- but I believe the greatest part of them were dutch people- As soon as we left Reading, we cross'd the Schuylkill- It was not deeper than the Lehi, & we rode thro' it in our waggon. A bridge was begun over it, but the man broke & was unable to finish it- It would have been an excellent one had it been completed- It is now grown over with grass & serves as a walk for the ladies---- We put up for the night at Leonard Shaver's tavern-He is a dutchman, but has one of the most agreeable women for his wife I have seen in this State-I was extremely tir'd when we stopt, & went immediately to bed after tea- & for the first time for a long while, undress'd me & had a comfortable nights rest- We are oblig'd to sleep every & any way- at most of the inns now---- My companions were all disturb'd by the waggoners who put up here & were all night in the room below us, eating, drinking, talking, laughing & swearing- Poor M^r W- was so disturb'd that he is not well this morning, & what is more unpleasant to us, is not good natur'd, & M^rs W has been urging him this half hour, to eat some breakfast- he would only answer "I shan't eat any"-but at length swallow'd some in sullen silence- but is in a different way preparing to ride-- If I were going to be married I would give my _intended_, a gentle emetic, or some such thing to see how he would bear being sick a little- for I could not coax a husband as I would a child, only because he was a little sick & a great deal cross- I trust I shall never have the trial- I am sure I should never bear it with temper & patience. M^r W is I believe a very pious good man, but not naturally pleasant temper'd- religion however, has corrected it in a great degree, but not wholly overcome it- M^{rs} W- is an amiable sweet temper'd woman, as I ever saw; the more I know her, the better I love her- Susan is a charming girl-but Erastus is rather an obstinate boy- he feels superiour to his father & every one else, in wisdom--M^{rs} Jackson is a clever woman I believe, but I have a prejudice against her which I cannot overcome- She is very inquisitive and very communicative- She resembles Moll Lyman or rather crazy Moll of Northampton in her looks- She has considerable property & feels it very sensibly- Her youngest son is almost eighteen & has his wife with him, who is not quite as old- They have been married 2 months, & are a most loving couple- I cannot help thinking whenever I see them together, of "love I Sophia?" &c-- Her name is Eliza & his, John-- The other son is a very obliging but not a very polish'd young man- I like them all better than at first----

Wednesday Eve- Miller's town- Penn- Oct-31^{st}

We have come 24 miles to day, & just begin to shorten the distance between Pittsburgh & us, & to increase it between Phildelphy (as the dutchmen call it,) & us- It has for a long time been 250 miles to Pitts^g & 60 to Phil^{hia}- but is now 218 to one & more than 80 to the other-- It began snowing this morning which rendered our ride more unpleasant than before- M^r W has continued just as he was in the morning- scarcely a word has been spoken by any of us- I never felt more low spirited & discouraged in my life- We have pass'd through 2 little towns to day- Moyerstown & the other I don't know the name of- We also pass'd thro Lebanon which appear'd to be a town of considerable size & pleasant- we did not stop at all in it- The other towns were merely one short dirty street- this town is one street only, but a tolerably pretty one- There are a number of good houses in it- We have once more got among people of our own nation & language- & they appear very clever--

Harrisburg- P- Thursday- Eve-November-1^{st} 1810-

It has been snowing fast all the afternoon & we found it very difficult travelling & were oblig'd to put up just in the edge of the town- It was M^r W's intention to cross the Susquehannah which is the other side the town- we shall not pass thro' it- We cross'd the Sweet Arrow, a little river about 8 miles from the Susquehannah-- we cross'd it in our waggon-M^r Jeremiah Rees is our landlord- his wife is sick with a fever arising from the Hives at first- He has a sister who seems to take the direction of the female part of the business- She is a strange creature-

Friday morn- I have been very much diverted at hearing some part of her history which she told last night, after drinking a little too much I suppose-She says she has property if she is not married- she had her fortune told a short time since- & was told to think of a certain gentleman living about 300 miles off- which she did, & thought so hard that a drop of blood fell from her nose- She was telling M^{rs} Jackson of this & ask'd how far she was going- being told about 300 miles- well she said she really believ'd her oldest son was the young man she was to have, for he looks just like the one she thought of- The young man will be quite flatter'd no doubt---- We are all in tolerably good spirits notwithstanding we are unable to proceed on our journey- It still continues snowing, & we shall stay here till tomorrow morning & how much longer I do not know---- There was a cockfighting in the house last night & a great many of the "finest young men in the town" got so intoxicated as to be unable to get home without assistance---- M. V. D.

Sunday eve- East pensboro' township- P-

We left M^r Rees' yesterday ten oclock- & after waiting some time at the ferry house, cross'd the Susquehanna with considerable difficulty- The river is a mile wide & so shallow that the boat would scrape across the large stones so as almost to prevent it from proceeding- We only came 8 miles- the riding was awful- & the weather so cold that I thought I should perish riding 4 miles- This will do well for us, 8 miles in 3 days- We were to have seen the mountains yesterday, but are 50 miles from it-- I should like to have staid at M^r Rees' till we reach home if it was possible, notwithstanding we had like to have all lost our characters there- While we were at breakfast, the black wench miss'd nearly 4 dollars of money, & very impudently accused us with taking it, in rather an indirect manner-- I felt at first very angry, but anger soon gave place to pity for the poor girls loss- It was money she had been saving for a long time that she might get enough to buy her a dress- but she left it about very carelessly in the closet where any one might have taken it who was so disposed-- But had I been inclined to steal, I could not have stolen from a poor black girl- I would rather have given her as much- I never felt so queerly in my life- To be suspected of theft was so new & unexpected to me, that I was wholly unprepar'd for it-- We went to M^r Rees & begg'd him to take some method to satisfy the girl we were innocent but we could not prevail on him to, tho' we really wish'd it-He gave the girl a severe scolding & desir'd us not to remember it against them, or to suffer ourselves to be made a moment uneasy by it, & both himself and M^rs Rees were extremely sorry any thing of the kind had happen'd- The girl continued crying & assuring us her money had been safe all summer till then & nobody had been near it but us- I, nor any of us had any doubt that the landlord's sister, whom I before mention'd, had taken it- She had the day before 2 or 3 ninepences in her shoes, & when M^r W ventur'd to ask her if she had not taken it to tease the wench, she swore by every thing she had not touch'd it- She said it was fashionable for ladies to carry money in their shoes- I suppose she had long been eyeing it, & thought then would be a good opper^ty to take it but did not intend it should be discover'd till we were gone & unable to defend ourselves from the charge which she then meant to make against us-- She is so worthless a character in every respect, that I am certain she could be guilty of stealing upon occasion-- She was very fond of telling what ladies, like _her_ & _me_, did & wore-- She is between 30 & 40 y^{rs} of age- It was an honour I was not very tenacious of, to be rank'd with her ladyship-The money was not found before we left there & I suppose the poor girl feels as certain some one of us have it, as that she has lost it- Should I ever return this way I would call & enquire about it- I hope it will be found with Babby (for that is the creatures name)--