Chapter 2

Passed a very good night, the sea placid, but little wind and that adverse. The wind rising but in no better direction. Played another game with Mr. Seaton, he giving me a Knight, still unsuccessful. Had a slight headache, the atmosphere feeling very damp. Saw one of Mother Carey's chickens or petrel of the ocean; it resembles a swallow and followed us some distance picking up some crumbs of bread thrown to it by the Captain.

The Mate says 28 days the shortest passage he ever made to America. At dinner a warm discussion on the Duke of Newcastle doing "what he liked with his own"; also the advantage of colonies, also the large military and naval expenses. After dinner we fell in with a ship from Vera Cruz to Bordeaux. The wind fair for the first time since we sailed. This evening played another game with the Captain and lost. Went on deck and heard two songs.

SATURDAY, MAY 17TH.

Had a good night. Dreamed that I had returned from Liverpool and could not get back in time for sailing; also that I had had three suits of clothes sent in. Was sorry to learn that the wind had died away and that we had only made about 1-1/2 knots per hour. Two vessels seen at a great distance; about two they came within a mile of us; others were also observed. Went down and wrote a few lines; the vessel did not come near enough for us to speak to them. Another ship passed in the afternoon but more distant. At dinner Mr. Seaton said he had known Madeira wine sell for more than eleven dollars a bushel. Very good pancakes indeed. In the evening Mr. Seaton, talking of horses said he himself had two horses which he drove eleven miles an hour for four successive hours; also spoke of the great mercantile house of Parish & Co., Hamburgh and New York. One of the steerage passengers informs me that there are 102 in the fore steerage and 39 in the middle steerage.

SUNDAY, MAY 18TH.

Had a pleasant night and rose before seven, and took out my better clothes to remind me more effectually of Sunday. Found the wind had continued moderately favourable. A long discussion at breakfast respecting smoking. Mr. Bassnett said he had smoked thirty cigars for thirty days together, and did not consider it hurtful when taken properly into the lungs. I considered it hurtful, and particularly as generally it was accompanied by drinking. A ship passed us this morning. At half past ten the bell tolled for a religious service and seats were brought on deck. Mr. Hamilton read the Church of England service, and Mr. Grindrod preached a good practical sermon. In the evening the Captain proposed to have an evening service, which was readily acceded to by Mr. Grindrod. Mr. H. read the evening service and Mr. G. preached the sermon. In the morning service the prayer for the royal family had given offence to some of the crew, and therefore on the recommendation of the Captain, the prayer was altered into all chief magistrates and governors.

MONDAY, MAY 19TH.

Dreamed a good deal and particularly about my late dear father, who is now still more in my remembrance, and I have frequently to check the expectation of seeing him on my return. A truly delightful morning with an improved breeze. Passed what is called a black fish[6]. Played a game with Mr. Bassnett and beat him. A most delightful and favourable breeze continued. Immediately after dinner I observed a current of yellow water about the breadth of the ship's length, and about 1/2 or 3/4 mile on each side, and after passing over it I went to tell the Captain who was just then looking over the side; he made haste to the stern along with others and he expressed very great surprise, almost seemed desirous to turn the vessel about to look more closely. He had never seen the like before, and should have been alarmed had he seen it at the head; could only explain it by supposing that an iceberg with a quantity of mud had melted in that neighbourhood[7]. Had fiddle and dancing particularly well done by the steward, cook, and some of the sailors. Played another game at chess with Mr. B. and beat him. Although we have had a good fair breeze all day we have not seen a single ship.

TUESDAY, MAY 20TH.

Had a good wind all night which continued till near ten, when a heavy shower of rain came on and the wind became unfavourable. A ship seen at a distance; passed two others early this morning. The wind continued unfavourable all day, also colder so that we all appeared depressed. Played two games with Mr. Bassnett and lost, then went on deck about ten and found the wind abated, but quite ahead. The Captain said he was quite sick of it. The curious phenomenon yesterday of the coloured water, is explained by some of the seamen supposing it to be the spawn of a whale.

Much breakage of glasses at dinner; my decanter tossed off the table and broken; also a tumbler and champagne glass. One gull seen yesterday and two stormy petrels follow us a long way. A very dull day with all of us, partly occasioned by the unfavourable wind and coldness. Had some affecting conversation with Mr. G. respecting my late dear father. A fine evening, the wind changed and almost became a calm. The ship gradually turned round to get on another tack.

WEDNESDAY, MAY 21ST.

Rested pretty well, but found we had made little way. A good deal of conversation at breakfast respecting various kinds of fruit. America it seems is well supplied with tropical fruit. Finished Lander's "Travels in Africa"; also read before Fergusson's "Canadian Tour." The breeze refreshing though not altogether favourable, much better than a calm. Mr. Bassnett proposed as a wager, that he would throw doublets ones to sixes in succession in ten minutes, which he accomplished in seven; he also surprised us by taking up the dice by means only of the boxes. The wind continued favourable all day. Played another game with Mr. B. and lost it. Did not see a ship or fish throughout the day. Have great difficulty in preventing myself from thinking of meeting my late dear father on my return.

THURSDAY, MAY 22ND.

Did not sleep so well though tolerably comfortable. Found the wind slight but for the first time quite fair in a due east, all the sails squared and also the stunsail out. Saw a fish. The wind about one, changed more south. A long sit and chat upon the helm house with Mr. Grindrod. A very good breeze all day. Remarkable that we saw not a vessel all day excepting before breakfast and at a great distance. Frequently do I find some trouble in checking the expectation of meeting again my dear father.

FRIDAY, MAY 23RD.

Got up before six having not been able to sleep since 2 o'clock, such noises, pitching and rockings as surely never were heard before. Found the sea greatly agitated and much foam. I asked one of the seamen if he did not call this a stiff gale; he said it was a fresh breeze. The Captain admitted that it blew hard; he was up all night. Cold all day and the wind quite contrary. Six or seven stormy petrels seen at once, and now and then a gull. Towards evening we discerned a brig which we found was sailing before us; she had little sail, and appeared to wish to speak to us, but did not come sufficiently near. It has been one of the disagreeable days, very cold with adverse wind and all our spirits depressed; several of our passengers are out of health. Mr. Webster complained of a boil on his ear; also Mr. Jackson of earache; Captain Kenney has a bad cold, and Mr. Bassnett a bad digestion. In the morning the Captain persuaded me to go to rest again and I lay down after dinner.

SATURDAY, MAY 24TH.

I passed a much better night and got up at half past six; was gratified to learn from the Mate who is not usually encouraging, that we had been making way in the night; pointed out a vessel passing us on the east. The Captain is making his 132nd passage across the Atlantic, say 62 voyages; been at sea 45 years, 35 in the American trade. A very, very cold, though sunny day. A score of petrels flying about. A day of business amongst the steerage passengers exchanging provisions. Much warmer on deck after dinner. Had some conversation in French with one of the sailors who is a Frenchman from Bordeaux. Been upon deck and greatly pleased with the numerous petrels chirping on all sides of the ship. Find the seamen are only engaged at New York to Liverpool and back, their wages paid during that time; this is the same even with the cook. The Captain every Saturday night sends a glass of whiskey to all the cabin passengers.

SUNDAY, MAY 25TH.

Passed the night very comfortably till six, when a sudden squall arose that tossed and rolled us about exceedingly. On going upon deck the sea was much agitated, it rained so heavily that I was obliged to descend. These sudden changes are not unusual in what is called the Gulf Stream; but I feel truly thankful that the storm did not come on earlier; it continued to blow hard all day. Seated at the stern watching the petrels and feeding them with bits of fat mutton. A ship seen this morning and another in the evening. A fine rolling sea and warm enough to sit out and enjoy it. The Church of England Service read in the cabin and a prayer made by Mr. Grindrod.

MONDAY, MAY 26TH.

Passed a comfortable night till five, when the vessel began to roll about. Got up before seven, found a dead calm which was the cause of the motion, which continued all forenoon.

Amused myself with reading Mr. Bassnett's voyage to Syria; and also at looking at some amusing caricatures of Cruickshank's. The wind fair but very little of it, yesterday a gale but in a wrong direction; in fact we have only had once a really fair wind and that for a short time. A great many gulls to be seen, most of them with pointed tails, and few petrels. Had we gone over the banks we might have had some diversion in fishing, but the Captain was afraid of encountering the ice.

In the Gulf there is not only a stream against us but generally very foggy weather and changeable, either calms or storms. This has been a very unpleasant day, a calm with dull hazy weather, no fish or ships, or even Mother Carey's chickens, but only a few gulls. A good deal of champagne taken to-day by Jackson, very foolish.

TUESDAY, MAY 27TH.

Passed a pretty good night though occasionally the ship rolled and pitched more than I expected. When I went upon deck I was agreeably surprised; a very good wind from the north bearing us on very well.

The scene diversified by a grampus[8] 8 to 10 feet long, and a flying fish which is rather larger than a swallow. About ten spoke to a vessel from Jamaica to London. Finished reading Bassnett's manuscript tour, Syria, Egypt, etc. Much depressed by the recollection of my dear father's departure; told Mr. Grindrod the cause, which led to some serious and at the same time consolatory remarks. At dinner Mr. Jackson enquired what was the matter, upon which Mr. G. very kindly explained the cause. Commenced reading B. H.'s[9] Notes on Chili, Peru, etc., he is a very pleasing and agreeable writer. The measles broke out about this time.

WEDNESDAY, MAY 28TH.

Passed a quiet night, found it raining which we fear may lead to a change of the wind which still continues rather favourable. Continued heavy rain till nearly eleven then cleared up and the wind increased, but not favourable taking us too much to the south instead of crossing the Gulf Stream. It is usual to go over the banks of Newfoundland but the Captain feared the icebergs. The Captain said if there was anything done by the Almighty which he could wish altered it would be the Gulf Stream; there is not only a current against us, but great uncertainty as to calms and storms. Mr. and Mrs. Kennedy and her sister dined with us to-day. Jackson more than usually foolish. Some of the passengers trying to put their legs over an American flour cask, and so raise themselves over it upon their feet. Went upon deck and was much pleased with the appearance of the sea; the ship was sailing through liquid fire; the sides of the vessel being quite illuminated with the foam, and the ocean was covered apparently by fire occasioned by the breakers. Passed the day without seeing either sail or fish.

THURSDAY, MAY 29TH.

Passed another comfortable night, found we had been getting on pretty well; nearly out of the Stream with the intention of shooting across the first fair wind.

The wind continues pretty favourable. A child died aged nine months. A stone with two lumps of iron are tied up to sink the child. At six the bell tolled, the little thing was placed upon a door and when the Minister, Mr. H. came to that part of committing the body to the deep it was slid off into the ocean and immediately disappeared, to be eaten by fish instead of worms. The mother did not come upon deck, her name Johnson, has 7 or 8 other children with her; the husband I believe in America.

Jackson told the Captain last night that he lost his father last 29th May, surely this circumstance will help him to a little more steadiness but this was hardly the case, excepting as occasioned by yesterday's debauch. Mr. Seaton says bastardy is not so common in America but always charged to the father. Mr. Cayley takes no exercise, says he never walks on ship, eats a good deal of animal food; a very bad system, either exercise or abstinence is essentially necessary.

FRIDAY, MAY 30TH.

Passed another good night though dreaming more of home and the warehouse; was delighted to find a fair wind and that it had been the same during the night; continued so all day but the rolling of the ship on going to breakfast made me rather sickly most of the forenoon; in fact we pitched and tossed more than ever with heavy rain a good part of the day, so that but for the wind being favourable we should consider it the most unpleasant day we have had; no ships, no fish or anything to divert the tedium.

This morning two of the sails were torn to ribbands. Frequent jelly-like substances floating on the ocean of various colours formed like a cockscomb commonly called Portuguese men-of-war.

SATURDAY, MAY 31ST.

Another good night, found the wind favourable but not much of this most of the night. A warm political discussion; I stated that America and not Dan O'Connell was the great political agitator. Speaking of the immense salaries paid in England I said the Government was more in fault in granting them, it being only human nature to receive. Captain Kenney said he should like to subscribe to send the radicals out of the country. I thought it would be better to employ the subscriptions in getting all the democrats away. A dense mist continued on the surface of the ocean till eleven, when it suddenly disappeared. A ship discovered by Mr. Grindrod.

I cannot forget that this is the anniversary of the interment of my dear father. Finished the second volume of Hall's "Journal of a Voyage to Chili, etc." Learned from Captain Kenney that the journey from London to Moscow by Hamburgh, Lübeck, St. Petersburgh may be done in a week for about £34; that there is no difficulty with regard to passports, but that you must advertise every district visited in the "St. Petersburgh Gazette," and that you are leaving there in three weeks; you can then stop that time but no longer in one place. At dinner we had some interesting discussion on phrenology, and also respecting future punishment and the different degrees; the latter I was glad to find was the creed of Mr. G. between whom and Mr. B. the conversation was carried on. On going on deck I was surprised to find that the Captain did not approve of such discussions.

SUNDAY, JUNE 1ST.

Passed a very comfortable night; found we had at length crossed the Gulf Stream; sensibly colder. The wind had not been favourable since last night. A very considerable mist occasioned by the warm water in the Stream coming in contact with the cold atmosphere--very cold.

The morning service according to the Church of England read by Mr. H. but not so many present on account of the cold--again in the evening with a sermon from Mr. G. from John, 14th chap., 15th verse, "If ye love me keep my commandments." Captain K. said he did not consider himself a gambler though he had lost 1, 2, 3 or £400 a night; once at Paris he lost a good deal. Since then he had made it a rule not to give checks, but merely stake what he had with him; when he lost the large sums they were out of his winnings. Talked of some wines that would not do for sea, port for instance; had several bottles changed because not so clear. This has been a disagreeable day, cold and a contrary wind; all the crew seemed to be getting out of spirits. Mr. Jackson said he cost his father £3000 for the 2-3/4 years he was learning the spinning business; he admitted he had been very gay.

MONDAY, JUNE 2ND.

A very good night, dreamed of home and my intention of going again to America. Delighted to find the weather milder and the wind favourable; it continued thus all day; rain came on about three; after dinner there was thick mist which continued all afternoon. Spent several hours with the helmsman and others.

Mr. Jackson does business with Gore, Honiball and Harrison. Mentioned Coates with whom they did as much as 10,000 pieces annually. Commenced reading "The Refugee in America," a work by Mrs. Trollope[10].

TUESDAY, JUNE 3RD.

Did not sleep, as in the early part of the evening feared we might run foul of some vessel, and after four we had a good deal of rolling. On getting up I was greatly disappointed to find the wind had been west all night, and also very cold indeed. Passed two fishing boats, also saw the spouting of a whale every now and then like foam from a breaker. Several other fishing boats seen on each side of us, engaged in cod fishing off the banks of Nova Scotia, so that we are now within soundings.

Mr. Bassnett mounted the rigging and saw land. The wind continued hard and cold; by "hard" is meant that no change can be expected till it dies naturally away. Another child is dead of the measles. Mr. Grindrod and I engaged in reading together "The Refugee." No fish to be seen. The day has been very cold and comfortless, very unfavourable for the poor children afflicted with measles.

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 4TH.

Had a pleasant night, but found we had made little progress, the wind still unfavourable. Another child dead of the measles. To reconcile the mother to interment in the deep, a coffin was ordered. About one both children were placed upon a sort of door, where a part of the bulwark had been taken away. Mr. G. officiated in consequence of Mr. H.'s indisposition, and on committing them to the deep the coffin did not sink. A great many passengers ran immediately to the stern whence it was observed for more than ten minutes, one passenger protesting that he still saw it, after others had declared that it had sunk; so that what was intended as a kindness proved otherwise, as the other body had sunk instantly.

Almost a dead calm all day till half past six, but being so much warmer we were all in better spirits. A most glorious sunset this evening. The cook considered to be very quarrelsome; quarrelled this evening with some of the sailors and got a bloody face. Jackson took more to drink than usual. They continued playing at whist till after eleven.

THURSDAY, JUNE 5TH.

Got up at half past six, was delighted to find the wind had continued favourable all night.

After breakfast assisted the Captain in assorting 2430 letters, many of them double, treble, etc., besides some hundreds of parcels, with a great many newspapers most of them Willmer & Co. Immediately, i.e. half past eleven, a sudden squall came on, a great part of the sail was immediately taken in--rain and much colder, also much rocking of the ship; we have to be thankful that it has happened now, rather than in the night and especially when nearer land. Immediately after dinner one of the most terrible rolls we have ever had, I suppose more glasses were broken this day than on any former one. About two we had quite a thunder storm with very heavy rain. After dinner we went to the stern and had the most terrible heave, and such a sea as we had never beheld before and all this at the end of the fifth week. Sounded and found 40 fathoms, tried to fish for cod or hollypot (halibut) but not successful. Yesterday a calm, to-day almost a hurricane. The wind went down about four but the sea continued rolling; in fact it must have blown harder from some other part to have raised the sea so much.

FRIDAY, JUNE 6TH.

Did not sleep much till after four in consequence of the ship rolling so much. Most truly delighted to find that we had had favourable wind since eleven, and now with this wind from N.E. which is likely to be more permanent we may fully expect to get in to-morrow. About ten there came on a heavy squall which settled into a stiff breeze, so that it became necessary to take in a good deal of sail; a larger sea broke over than any I had yet seen. About two it lessened and the sail was again increased. After dinner, about five, the delightful word "Land" was announced which made us all truly delighted. Immediately I went on deck and was just able to discern the shore of Long Island. What a most agreeable contrast; only this morning a greater sea broke over the ship than I had seen before, and now at six we are sailing in smooth water.

After the first transports of joy on seeing land, my feelings became saddened by the recollection of never again beholding my dear father, and these no doubt will be my sensations when I get back to my native land. Another most glorious sunset, a cloud covering the upper part of the low coast of Long Island, the lower part of the sun's disk made it have the appearance of a bright line for several seconds with beautiful clouds above, equal to any Italian sky I have beheld.

SATURDAY, JUNE 7TH.

A most delightful morning but hardly a breath of air to help us on. At noon another child died and was interred. Very hot. The Jersey coast seen this morning. Mr. Seaton, a moderate smoker, said he had used 56/- worth this voyage. Paid 4 dollars and 2/6 to steward--also wine bill 10 dollars and 60 cents. Mr. Jackson's bill 77 dollars besides 16 lost at cards. Many ships in sight and a good deal of the coast. Long Island a very low sandy shore. Unfavourable breeze till after dinner when all at once it changed. A beautiful sight, 15 or 16 vessels on each side, and one from Ireland filled with emigrants. An officer rowed by five men from a revenue cutter boarded us a little before eight; took an account of the cases of merchandise and passengers; he appeared a pleasant sharp-looking young man, Mr. Seaton said a lieutenant. One of the seamen sounded ringing the number of fathoms. A little before ten a pilot came on board, said they could not get down sooner for want of wind, had been towed out some part by a steamer. Several pilots came in one boat, and brought two newspapers. Let go the anchor soon after ten to stem the tide. The cow seemed to recognize the land, poking out her head and snuffing the land breeze.

SUNDAY, JUNE 8TH.

A delightful morning; found the anchor had been let down about half past six. A fine view of Staten Island. The pilot says we are about 14 miles off the quarantine--got Mr. Grindrod to inform my friends per the _Royal William_, Londonderry, bound to Liverpool, that I had arrived safe.