Chapter 3

The height of the whole bell is 21 feet 3 inches and 25 feet 5 inches in diameter, and weighs 443,722 lbs., or more than 153 tons, and is supposed to have cost L350,000, as in addition to the copper, many persons, during the process of casting, threw large quantities of gold and silver into each of the four furnaces.

The tower of John the Great is more than 200 feet high, surmounted by a gilded dome, of which there are about 60 in the Kremlin.

In the first storey hangs a bell, which but for its mightier neighbour below would appear stupendous, being 60 tons.

To ring it is impossible; even to toll it requires the united strength of three men pulling with separate ropes the vast clapper; above this are 40 or 50 more.

The cathedral of St. Basil, situated outside the Kremlin, is a truly grotesque building, having no less than 20 towers and domes, all of different shapes and sizes, and painted in every possible colour. Some are crowned with a network of green over a surface of yellow; another dome is bright red, with broad white stripes, and a third is gilded.

It is said to be a whim of the Tzar Ivan the Terrible to see how many distinct chapels could be erected under one roof in a given space of ground, so that services could be performed at one time without interrupting each other.

It is further related that the Tzar was so delighted with the architect that when the edifice was finished he sent for him, pronounced a high eulogium on his work, and then ordered his eyes to be put out so that he could never build such another.

The chapel of the Iberian Mother of God is situated in an archway; and at the further end is the saint herself in a kind of sanctuary.

Her complexion, like most of the Russian saints, is a dark brown, not to say black.

Round her head is a net of pearls, on one shoulder a large jewel is fastened, and another of equal brilliancy rests on her brow, above which, the whole being lighted up by thirteen silver lamps, glitters a splendid crown.

Pass whenever he pleases, the traveller will find the chapel beset by worshippers.

Her hand and the foot of the child are covered with dirt from the abundant kissing, and have almost disappeared.

None ever pass, however urgent their business, without bowing and crossing themselves; the greater part actually enter, kneel devoutly before the Mother, and pray with fervent sighs. Fashionable ladies leave their equipages and prostrate themselves in the dust along with the meanest beggars.

It is frequently visited by the Tzars, and it is said that Alexander the First never omitted to do so, and more than once in the middle of the night he wakened the monks that he might perform his devotions.

In addition to all these places of worship, there is an immense cathedral dedicated to Jesus, erected on rising ground a little out of the city.

It has taken 21 years in building, and will require as many more to complete it; the interior presenting only a forest of props placed in all directions.

The dome is very large, resembling that of St. Isaac, and equally splendidly gilt.

Besides the churches, there are numerous convents and monasteries. Two of the principal we visited, and found them to consist of several churches, surrounded by a high wall, with many towers and a few pieces of ordnance, having all the appearance of a fortress.

As usual, the churches were greatly ornamented with pictures and gilding, but the most attractive part of the Russian service is the singing, particularly at the Vespers, when the boys taking the soprano parts, accompanied by some most extraordinary deep bass tones of the men, swelling and filling the entire cathedral; all this, with occasional recitations from their sacred books, without any knowledge of their contents, excited in us the most serious and delightful sensations. There were about a dozen priests engaged in the various ceremonies, and the service was continued nearly three hours for the benefit of five or six worshippers.

In this country are two immense foundling hospitals. The one we visited at Moscow is said to receive annually upwards of 25,000 children.

The upper part of this immense building is appropriated to the infants and nurses, of each of which there are always 600, besides about 5,000 sent out to nurse in the adjoining villages.

They were all in uniform--dark cotton gowns and white aprons. All bowed as we went down the line. The next suite of rooms was occupied by children from four to seven years of age. The elder ones were in the schoolrooms.

Having seen various parts of the establishment, we were shown into the office where the infants are first received. The books were kept in excellent order, and the number of clerks proved that there was a good deal of business to be done.

When a child is brought the first question is, is it baptized? If not, the chaplain is called, and the child is taken into an adjoining room, where there is a small oratory and font. It is then taken back to the officer, and his name and number, with date of admission, entered in the books. A corresponding ticket was tied round its neck, and a duplicate given to the woman who had brought him. By the presentation of this ticket the child might be claimed at any future time. It is then carried into another room, well washed, dressed in his little uniform, and fetched by a nurse from the upper storey.

Though called a foundling hospital, it is in reality a general receptacle for all children, who are received up to a certain age, without exception, it being left entirely to the option of the parent to state their names and condition, and to contribute or not, to the future support of the child.

Parents paying L4 or L5 have the right to see that their child is brought up in the house and not sent out to nurse.

If a boy, and left by his parent without any deposit, he is brought up for the army as a common soldier, but if 250 roubles or L40 sterling be left with him, he will become an officer. All who show ability become engineers or are sent to the University.

The girls, according to their taste and ability, are instructed in painting or music, and if intended for governesses are taught German or French. The majority of girls, after receiving a common and useful education, are employed in manual labour, and all, without distinction of age or sex, can return to the hospital should they fall into distress in after life.

The annual expenses of the establishment amount, it is said, to nearly a million sterling.

The policy, and certainly the moral consequences of keeping up such an institution are more than doubtful.

There are two theatres, one very large, containing a suite of immense rooms, used for masked balls and similar entertainments, but is only open during the winter season; the other is chiefly carried on by French performers, and was well filled on the evening we attended.

The great Riding School is one of the wonders of Moscow, being 560 feet long and 158 feet broad and 42 feet in height; supposed to be the largest room in the world unsupported by pillars or props of any kind.

This vast enclosure gives ample room for two regiments of cavalry to go through all their manoeuvres unobstructed by stormy weather, being heated by upwards of twenty stoves.

The Bazaar is also an immense pile of building, three storeys high, comprising 5,228 shops, connected by an endless number of passages and steps. In these courts and galleries there is a continual fair throughout the year, attended by traders from every part of Europe, Siberia, China, and Tartary, numbering upwards of 1,000 merchants, all eager and very importunate to do business.

In the same neighbourhood are many streets of shops, arranged in masses, perhaps thirty shops for paper, another range for spices, a third for ornamental articles, and a fourth for pictures and saints.

Of this last article, and the numerous vessels, lamps, candlesticks, crosses, and amulets used in the celebration of the Mass, there is a vast demand in the holy city, there being scarcely a house or any room without a favourite saint.

The population at Moscow use at least three times as many votive tapers in honour of their saints as the inhabitants of St. Petersburg, and in numerous churches many a ton of wax is said to be used for pious purposes. Wax lights are a great trade, and occupy much space.

Great numbers of pigeons nestling under the eaves of the shops are fed by the owners with the sacred feeling that they are emblems of the Holy Ghost.

No idea can be given of the noise and pertinacity of the traders calling to you, and even pulling you by the sleeve; and in the midst of all this bustle there is an ample supply of edibles undergoing various culinary operations; along with fish and other sorts of meat, eaten with black bread made of rye; they have various fancy cakes, and in some places large dishes of soup, with a number of wooden spoons for each to help himself.

Besides these, there are second-hand markets, dealers in old clothes, books, and pictures, and others with bundles of ribbons round their bodies or a pile of hats one upon another making known such dealer to a considerable distance.

These densely-crowded districts form a striking contrast to other parts of the city, where scarcely a person is to be seen, and it should be further mentioned, to their credit, that we only observed one altercation, and another person in a state of intoxication, being the first disorderlies we had seen since entering the country.

The Sundays here, as in most Catholic countries, are spent as fete days or holidays, and having heard much of the singing gypsies, we proceeded one evening to Ratge public gardens, about a mile out of the city, and found a large assembly of persons promenading the grounds, with two bands of music playing alternately.

About eight o'clock we observed a general move towards a pavilion, brilliantly lighted with a great number of variegated lamps, and in a short time appeared seventeen ladies and ten gentlemen, all evidently of this peculiar tribe.

The singing of solos, duets, and occasionally a full chorus, was singularly wild, and strikingly delightful. So eminent have they been considered, that it is related of Catalini, that after one of the performers had finished, she tore off a cashmere shawl which had been presented to her by the Pope, and embracing the gypsy, insisted on her accepting the splendid gift, intended for the matchless songster.

The evening amusements closed with the siege of Canton, exhibiting such a display of fireworks, cannonading, and destruction of buildings and boats as I had never seen before.

The boulevards are nicely laid out with broad walks, with occasional seats, and planted on each side with trees and shrubs. Near to them is the flower garden, which consists of numerous small gardens, containing huts of painted wood filled with a variety of flowers and shrubs, mostly of a common sort, and some cherry and peach trees planted in pots.

In this country fruit is scarce, and of course dear, so different to the south of Europe, an important circumstance to the teetotaller.

We also visited the Moscow Hotel--not a coffee house, coffee being little used--but one of the largest tea houses in the city, where traders of all ranks assemble to settle their various bargains with copious libations of tea, which they drink out of large glass goblets.

I have not the dimensions of this establishment, but perhaps some idea of its size may be formed by the daily consumption of 14lbs. of tea, requiring about six tons of water. The waiters are all dressed in white jackets, pantaloons, and aprons.

Another day we took a drive to one of the cemeteries--of great extent, but not containing any remarkable monuments.

Here we visited Peterskoi, another palace, more comfortable, being of moderate extent and less decorated.

The chief interest attached to this chateau is that refugees, when Moscow was in flames, fled to it for safety, and an apartment is shown where by the light of the flaming city Napoleon dictated the dispatch conveying the sad intelligence to France.

A little further on is the racecourse, which to our great surprise we found attended by a concourse of people, and the riders mounted just ready to set off. After witnessing two heats, displaying no extraordinary speed, we left the ground. This sort of sport, we were told, is not much encouraged by the Russians, nor should we suppose there is much gambling, when a bet of L50 by Sir Robt. Peel occasioned the greatest surprise.

The following afternoon we set off to Sparrow Hill, and partook of some tea under a small tent commanding a splendid view of Moscow, and said to be the spot whence Napoleon had his first glance of this wonderful city.

Some parts of the road were exceedingly bad, very deep ruts, reminding me of some of the mud turnpikes in America. Whilst the horse was resting our guide partook of some quas, the common drink of the country, which we found to be a sort of weak muddy beer, rather acid.

A little further on the way we heard a shepherd amusing himself and his flock by playing on the green willow.

We visited the fish market, containing a great variety of fish, many of them all alive in large tanks of water, and others carefully preserved in blocks of ice.

On revisiting the Kremlin for the last time, we were fortunate in witnessing an extraordinary procession, more than 200 priests in their varied gorgeous robes, bearing canopies, holy standards, and other insignia, amidst the jingling of scores of bells, which only ceased after they had all entered the cathedral.

Before quitting this wonderful city I took a parting glance from the terrace on the roof of our hotel, whence I counted more than 250 domes and spires, many of them gilt, and others, with the roofs of many of the houses beautifully coloured, forming a truly splendid panorama.

On our return at 12 o'clock noon, the same hour we left for St. Petersburg; we took two second-class tickets, and found ourselves more comfortable than in the saloon of the first class, arriving very punctually at 8 o'clock the following morning.

The same day we renewed our visit to St. Isaac's Cathedral, which we found surrounded by a numerous concourse of people, with a military guard stationed at the chief entrance, and a splendid carpet covering the steps leading to the cathedral.

We hastened through one of the side doors, and secured a good position on the steps near to the altar, whence we had a fine view of the procession of the numerous priests in most gorgeous dresses, bearing a canopy over the Metropolitan and swinging incense from side to side, amidst the most beautiful chanting, sometimes in deep bass tones, followed by youthful choristers in the most delightful gentle strains, swelling forth into a grand chorus, and filling the centre of this vast cathedral.

When the music had ceased, and the priests had retired behind the altar, we had a most energetic sermon, which not being able to understand, left us time to survey once more the interior of this most magnificent edifice.

After the service was ended one of our friends from the hotel, a very intelligent lady from the Channel Islands, went up to two ladies standing near us, to make enquiry about certain parts of the ceremony, when after some explanation, they kindly invited us to call upon them in the evening, and bring along with us two other of our English travellers.

On showing their card to Miss Benson, she informed us the ladies were persons of high rank, the daughters of a distinguished general, but known to be greatly attached to the English.

Upon our calling in the evening we found the two ladies not returned from Court, but another sister received us most graciously, and after a long conversation, chiefly on the emancipation of the Serfs, which they did not approve of, having about 2,000 of them on their own estates, but at the same time giving the Emperor credit for the best intentions. Before leaving we were asked by the particular desire of the absent ladies to renew our visit the following evening, which we regretted not being able to do, having to make arrangements for our return home.

The manufactures at St. Petersburg are numerous, and some of them very extensive in tapestry, porcelain, glass, carpet, paper and cotton, all under the patronage of the State, but chiefly owned or managed by foreigners.

One of the cotton factories we visited, situated at Octi, about three miles up the river Neva, is a good-sized mill, worked by four engines of 250 and 260 horse power, spinning yarn about forty or fifty hanks, and employing 700 or 800 hands, chiefly serfs, from the neighbouring villages, with managers, mostly English, occupying cottages surrounding the establishment.

The proprietors, De Jerseys, well known in Lancashire, have other concerns in Russia, and are now erecting very large works in Finland for the purpose of spinning, weaving, bleaching, dyeing and printing.

At the Misses Bensons there were three English gentlemen, a Captain Glascott and two others, who had been engaged several years in an extensive survey through Russia and a part of Turkey. They kindly exhibited their plans, beautifully drawn upon a large scale.

Before leaving St. Petersburg you have to give two or three days' notice, so that your name may appear in the Gazette, and thereby ensure the due discharge of claims upon you. You are also furnished with a new passport, instead of viseing the one you brought with you, thereby supplying a few extra fees to the officials, which I consider to be the chief object in keeping up this abominable system.

We left St. Petersburg in a small steamer, and embarked at Cronstadt in the "Vladimer," a Russian steamer, very beautifully fitted up, with two cabins on deck, one for the captain and the other for the use of the passengers; the bulwarks, rather too high, and so obstruct the view, but at the same time protective in foul weather. The accommodation was very good, and the supply of provisions most ample, but not all suited to the English palate.

In the evening we had a glorious sunset, and the following day passed a lighthouse built upon a rock jutting out of the sea; then Reval, situated on a high coast, and in three days arrived at Stettin, having had a most enjoyable passage.

Among the passengers was a young Russian count, an officer in the army, and, though only 27, had been in several severe engagements without receiving a single wound. He was a most intelligent young man, well acquainted with the history of most of the countries in Europe, and free in his remarks upon the faults of his own, so much so that I did not fail to remind him of Siberia.

Approaching the Prussian coast, I observed the first star since entering the Baltic.

A few miles before landing we were boarded by a number of custom house officers, a very good arrangement, saving much time and inconvenience. The search was in no way strict after declaring that we had no tea or leather.

Having to wait three or four hours for the train to Berlin, we walked about the town, viewed a very remarkable statue of Frederick the Great, and also entered an old church containing a very ancient organ and pulpit wonderfully ornamented.

The railway carriages, like most others on the Continent, greatly excel ours; the 1st class have three spacious seats, the 2nd two double seats, and the 3rd much like our 2nd. It is a good line, and I should think made at a moderate cost, there being few cuttings or embankments, and not many bridges; the rails appeared to be about seven yards long. On both sides we observed extensive fields of grain, and many women among the reapers.

The city of Berlin is situated on a level sandy plain, and has many wide streets and numerous public buildings, boulevards and other delightful walks.

The king's palace, though very extensive, has a shabby appearance.

The state apartments are decorated with good paintings, tapestry, and large chandeliers of solid silver; and there is a beautiful chapel, with the floor ornamented with various marbles; also a library containing 500 Bibles in different languages and editions.

There is a most noble equestrian statue of Frederick the Great.

The Arsenal, a noble structure, containing arms arranged in excellent order for 200,000 men, probably like our guns at the Tower, more ornamental than efficient; also the rich accoutrements of the horse on which Frederick the 1st rode when he made his public entry, all the ornaments being of gold adorned with brilliants.

The Museum is very extensive, all the articles beautifully arranged.

In the Hall of Arts is a very large ale-cup belonging to Luther showing that he was no teetotaller.

Amidst the numerous fine streets in this city should be mentioned the Unter den Linden. On looking across from our hotel we observed it laid out in the following manner: First, a footpath of flags, then a pavement of large square sets, trees (acacias and other sorts); then a pavement of small pebbles, trees; a broad gravel walk, trees, small pebbles, trees; a pavement of large sets; and, last, a range of flags. The street is 60 yards wide, and so full of trees as almost to obscure the houses opposite, and looking down about one and a half miles, presented a very extraordinary appearance.

But the great defect in this beautiful city is the want of proper sewerage. In some of the principal streets the water is suffered to lie in open drains on each side of the street, in a most stagnant condition.

We went by railway to Potsdam, and after walking through numerous palaces, we visited Babelsberg Castle, the residence of the Prince Frederick William.

Its approach is along a fine gravel road, through a beautiful plantation of various trees and shrubs, gradually rising to a considerable eminence, so as to command a very extensive view of the most beautiful scenery all around.

This charming chateau, of very moderate extent, is surrounded by terraces and gardens, containing the choicest shrubs and flowers, and interspersed with fountains and statuary truly delightful.

All the rooms, which are fitted up in a simple style, without any of the usual costly decorations, were thrown open to the public excepting the more private apartments and the one then occupied by its regal owner.

We left it deeply impressed with the real comfort of such a dwelling, so vastly superior to all the magnificent display we had so lately witnessed.

At Charlottenhof there is a grand palace, containing an immense room, with the ceiling and walls entirely covered with shells of every variety, and forming the most curious figures.

And at Charlottenberg, about two miles from Berlin, there is another palace with a beautiful garden, orangery, and the choicest flowers; but the most attractive object here is the mausoleum, a beautiful structure, containing two most remarkable statues of the late King and Queen, on which the light is transmitted through richly stained windows, producing a very solemn and imposing effect, not excelled by the tomb of Napoleon recently erected at Paris, or that of Marie Louise and their son at Vienna.

From Berlin we proceeded to Hamburg, which on my former visit had suffered from an extensive conflagration. All that part of the city has been since rebuilt, and is now covered with streets of warehouses on a most magnificent scale.

There is also a very fine range of buildings along the Aster, a fine sheet of water connected with the Elbe, containing great quantities of fish and numerous swans floating on its surface.

There is also a very large Exchange, very numerously attended at high change time, presenting a very extraordinary spectacle to those in the gallery above, and leading some of us to wonder how many false statements were mingled in the sounds then produced.