Chapter 2

We could not learn, says Murray, how many hundredweight of silver were employed, but doubtless many thousands of dozens of French and German spoons, and hundreds of soup tureens and tea pots must have been melted down by the Cossacks in 1813 and 1814 as offerings to the Holy Mother of Kazan, this Madonna being held by them in peculiar veneration.

The members of the Greek religion pray standing,--the interior of the church is always devoid of pew, bench, or chair; but in every church there is a place set apart for the Emperor to stand in, which is raised above the floor, and usually covered with a canopy.

An exception has been made in favour of the Dowager Empress on account of ill-health.

This standing during a service, continuing two hours, must prove very fatiguing, but is a sure preventive of sleeping.

Behind and in front the ceremonies are performed by numerous priests, fine looking men, with long flowing beards, in robes of most costly materials; the genuflexions are numerous and very low, incense is much used, and there are some good pictures, but no statuary and no organ or other instrumental music; but the chanting is peculiar and very striking.

Whilst in catholic countries the churchgoers are mostly women; in Russia we find both sexes engaged in such duties.

On entering the church a wax candle is purchased, and sinking on one knee, bowing his head to the pavement and crossing his breast respectively with the thumb and the two forefingers of his right hand, the worshipper proceeds to the shrine itself, he lights his candle at the holy lamp, and sets it up in one of the numerous sockets in a large silver stand; then, falling low on his bended knee, kisses the pavement before the altar. This we witnessed on another visit, carried out to a most extravagant extent. A young man, almost the only worshipper present, bowed down from a standing position more than sixty times, bumping his head with such force upon the marble floor as to be heard distinctly a considerable distance--a case of insanity, you will suppose, or likely soon to become so.

Flame is considered the best spiritual representation; no interment, baptism, or any sacred ceremony is thought of without lamp or taper, greatly exceeding what takes place in the Catholic church.

Even the Exchange is not without its Saint and lamp continually burning.

On the Sunday we went to the grand church dedicated to St. Isaac, commenced in 1817 and only opened a fortnight before our arrival.

This church, with almost the grandeur of St. Peter's at Rome, though not so favourably situated, excels in beauty both the interior and exterior of the Madeleine in Paris.

In the foundation of this wonderful structure were driven 10,762 piles, the work of ten engines for a whole year; on these were placed two layers of blocks of granite, carefully worked and never again to be seen, being 15 feet below the surface of the street. They serve as a base to the walls of the cathedral, of which the more important are granite, to the level of the pavement, the remainder being constructed with compact masonry, bed upon bed, costing L200,000.

The portico on each of the four fronts consists of twelve Corinthian columns, each 7 feet diameter, and 57 feet long, in one block.

The dome is surrounded by 24 columns, each 42 feet in height, and is constructed of metal, viz., 52 tons of copper, 321 tons of brass, 524 tons wrought iron, 1,068 tons of cast iron, and 247 lbs. of ducat gold.

Three of the doors are 30 feet high and 12 feet wide, four others 17 feet high and 8 wide.

The interior is the form of a great cross, with the dome in the centre, the altar screen 150 feet long and 70 feet high, of white marble, encrusted with porphyry, jasper and other precious stones, and enriched with eight Corinthian columns of malachite and two lapis lazuli 42 feet high, and the doors into the chancel of silver, containing scriptural expressions 35 feet high and 14 wide, the whole costing 52 millions of roubles, or say in round numbers, 8 1/2 millions sterling.

The day we attended proved a fete day, and of course was very much crowded by all ranks, from the richest noble to the humblest serf, in one general mass.

There were upwards of 20 priests officiating in their gorgeous robes, performing various ceremonies amidst frequent processions, and occasionally reading from one of their sacred books in so loud and distinct a tone as to be heard through the immense cathedral, and at other times chanting in deep bass tones, varied by the assistance of young choristers, with the sweetest voices, producing the most delightful harmony.

During the service, which lasted 2 1/2 hours, the cathedral was illuminated by seven chandeliers, containing each 130 candles, and other smaller ones, all of silver; in addition to these were many votive candles purchased by various worshippers and deposited in sockets of a silver frame work placed near the altar, amounting altogether to not fewer than 1,500 lights.

St. Petersburg can boast of several large monuments, the Ramanzof erected to the field-marshal of that name, and Suwaroff, one of their most distinguished heroes; also the column of Alexander, a single shaft of red granite, upwards of 80 feet in height. The base and pedestal is composed of one enormous block, above 25 feet square, and to secure the base there were no fewer than six successive rows of piles, the shaft of the column alone weighing nearly 400 tons.

On the pedestal is the following short and well-chosen inscription:

"To Alexander the Great; Grateful Russia."

But the most wonderful of all is the well-known equestrian statue of Peter the Great, representing the Emperor riding up a rock and subduing a serpent.

The huge block of granite which forms the pedestal, and weighs 1,500 tons, was brought from Lacte, a village four miles from St. Petersburg, at a cost of 70,000 roubles, or L11,000 sterling. It was originally 45 feet long, 30 feet high, and 25 feet in width, but broke into two pieces, which were subsequently patched together, the whole cost amounting to 424,610 roubles, or upwards of L70,000.

After surveying the palaces and public buildings in the city, we turned our attention to those in the environs, and proceeded in a steamer to Peterhof, about fifteen miles down the river.

Nothing can be finer than the situation of this palace, commanding an extensive view of the Neva from Cronstadt to St. Petersburg, with beautiful waterworks, considered little inferior to those at Versailles, with a magnificent jet called the Sampson, a colossal bronze figure, tearing open the jaws of a lion, whence rushes the water from a height of 80 feet.

Besides numerous other jets sending the water in all directions, there is a broad flight of steps, and on each side a range of marble slabs to the top of the hill, over which the water pours down, so far apart, as to allow on fete nights, variegated lamps to be arranged behind the water, forming the most beautiful cascade.

Passing through the palace, containing numerous pictures, marbles and vases that we had not time to inspect, we came to the gardens, kept in the strictest order. In the varied walks and borders of flowers are numerous seats to accommodate a large assemblage of people, and two bands of music playing alternately.

Descending from the palace to the seashore, the garden is laid out in terraces, and adorned with fountains, waterfalls, and statuary. Here are the oak and lime trees, planted by Peter himself, and at the end of one of the walks is situated Monplaisir, a low Dutch-built summer house, where the Great Peter breathed his last, and his bed remains untouched since his death, but is now fast crumbling to decay.

Another day we set off by railway to Tzarskoe Selo, a very extensive royal residence, and favourite resort of the Imperial family.

At the entrance to the grounds of the palace are two small towers, covered with Egyptian figures.

The facade of the palace is 1,200 feet in length. Originally every statue, pedestal and capital of the numerous columns, the vases, carving and other ornaments in front were covered with gold leaf, costing more than a million of ducats.

The rooms in this palace, like all others, are richly decorated with simple white and gold, or hung with rich silks. One very elegant room, called the lapis lazuli, has strips of this stone inlaid in the walls, and the floor of this apartment is of ebony, inlaid with large flowers of mother of pearl, forming one of the most splendid contrasts possible. But the wonder of this palace is the famous amber room, the walls of which are literally panelled with this material in various designs.

The state apartments are, as usual, lavishly covered with gold, one part occupied by a collection of the most splendid China vases, and other costly articles.

Here are pointed out the simple rooms occupied by the late Emperor Alexander I, whom all seem to remember with great affection.

His apartments have been kept exactly as he left them when he departed for Tagannag.

This account of the interior, I should observe, is taken from the guide book, as we could not obtain admission, being unfortunately on the wrong day, perhaps the only time we regretted not having with us the all-important order from Prince Adlerberg. Not gaining admission left us more time to spend in the grounds, which extend over eighteen miles in circumference.

The gardens are certainly kept in the very highest order, the trees and flowers are watched and inspected with the greatest minuteness. An old invalid soldier commands his 500 or 600 men as gardeners and overseers. Every leaf that falls in pond or canal is carefully fished up. They trim and polish the trees and paths in the gardens to the greatest nicety, and the grass borders are kept in the finest condition.

The cost of all this polishing and extreme attention is above 100,000 roubles yearly.

Very odd caprices are exhibited in the decoration of the grounds, several fanciful towers, a Dutch and Swiss cottage, a Gothic building, a marble bridge with Corinthian columns, bronze and other statues, and numerous monuments raised by Alexander to his companions in arms, intermingled with hermitages, artificial ruins, Roman tombs, grottoes and waterfalls.

Like almost all other royal buildings in Russia, Tzarskoe owes its origin to Peter the Great.

He erected the first house here, and planted the avenues of plane trees with his own hand.

We had a great desire to drive about the grounds, and made several attempts with the droshky drivers, but could not make ourselves understood either with regard to the terms or the route we should take.

At length we succeeded in getting a carriage to Pavlofsky, another imperial residence, by mentioning the name and offering a sum which we found afterwards was much more than the distance justified. The palace is not particularly distinguished, and the gardens are resorted to as a sort of Vauxhall, with bands of music and other similar entertainments.

Among other public buildings at St. Petersburg should be mentioned the Exchange.

A stately flight of steps leads to this great hall, which is lighted from above; on both sides are spaces in the form of arcades. In one of the first stands an altar with a lamp constantly burning for the benefit of the pious Russian merchants, who always bow to the altar and sometimes prostrate themselves to implore the favour of some favourite saint to prosper their undertakings.

Here I may mention the several sorts of money circulating in this country. One hundred kopecks make a rouble, about 3s. 4d. English money, always used as the basis in commercial transactions; a few silver coins, 25, 30, 50, and a few 100 kopecks, but of the last these generally appear in notes of 1, 3, 5, 10, and 20 roubles; some coppers, 1/4 to 3 kopecks.

The gold coins are the imperial, half imperial, and one between, but these we did not see, being, we suppose, as Cobbett used to say, unwilling to associate with dirty ragged companions.

They have a curious mode of reckoning by means of a frame with a number of parallel wires, on which are strung ten black balls and ten white balls, or sometimes a greater number, the lowest being taken as units, the next as tens, and the third as hundreds, &c.

Among the public buildings we also observed several towers or fire signals--high buildings, from which with rods of iron in various directions are given the earliest intimation of fire, which is communicated by a flag in the day or lamps in the night. These towers were formerly more necessary when a large part of the city was built of wood.

We should not omit to mention an immense Bazaar, of 400 yards frontage and nearly the same backward, containing almost every article for sale.

After staying a week at St. Petersburg we set off to Moscow by railway, starting at 12 o'clock at noon. After getting our tickets, paying about the same as in this country, with a little extra for luggage, we passed into a large waiting room, and there remained till the doors were opened upon the platform about five minutes before setting off.

Many of the travellers, particularly ladies, were seen carrying large pillows or cushions to repose upon, thereby filling the carriages to suffocation, and this in July.

The carriages are much like ours in appearance, but instead of three there are nine carriages joined together, with a passage down the centre, the same as in America.

The first class has a small compartment for one of the conductors or guards, then a saloon, with a sofa on each side, and the remainder, two seats on one side and one on the other, which, with the passage, require a wider gauge, something like the Great Western.

The second class is much the same, with rather less upholstering; and the third without cushions.

The rail appeared strong and very substantially laid, and is carried in a straight level line for miles together through forests of great extent. At each station a person goes round striking the wheels and axles to see that all is sound. The engines are supplied with wood fuel, and seemed powerful, dragging us along in some parts with great rapidity.

The forest trees, consisting chiefly of pine, birch, and mountain ash, with a few oaks and beech, did not appear so large as I expected, nor was our monotonous course enlivened by the sight of an occasional bear or eagle, being, we suppose, gone from home. Along some parts of the line we observed the corduroy road (trees laid close together), and gates formed of long poles counterpoised by a thicker part at the other end.

There are thirty-three stations built upon one plan, spacious and convenient, all on a level with the entrances to the carriages; two or three of these are well supplied with eatables and drinkables, which were by no means neglected; also a great consumption of tea, a very general beverage in Russia, served in glass tumblers with lemon juice instead of cream, which we did not consider a good substitute; though accompanied with good bread and butter, proved to us far more acceptable than many other dishes.

Smoking, everywhere so common, is here indulged to the greatest excess, and not confined to one sex, several ladies sporting their cigarettes.

If not many passengers, a lady is usually accommodated with a double seat.

I have mentioned the prevailing habit of bowing to the saints. This occurred on our journey, and on looking back, I found we had just passed a church at a considerable distance.

We arrived at Moscow at eight o'clock the following morning, having performed the journey, 400 miles, in twenty hours, stopping at the various stations about 1 1/2 hours, this journey formerly requiring twelve to fifteen days.

It was raining very hard, but by the kindness of a gentleman we were helped to a cab, and after giving the necessary directions, we proceeded to the hotel which had been recommended to us, but found it full.

With the second hotel on our list we were more successful.

After breakfast, the rain continuing, my secretary,[5] engaged herself writing home, whilst I proceeded to present our letters of introduction.

One of these friends helped us to a guide, and also engaged a carriage to facilitate our future movements.

Moscow has a population of about 350,000, with innumerable churches, towers, gilded spires and domes. The roofs of the houses are constructed of sheet iron, and painted white, red and green, all of them glittering in the sun, and presenting a truly splendid appearance.

It was built about 700 years ago, and remained the metropolis of Russia till the beginning of the last century.

The exterior wall of the city is upwards of twenty English miles in extent and presents a striking contrast to St. Petersburg.

In some streets we come to a large palace and then to a wretched hovel. Another time we see a row of little cottages of one storey standing next to a stately mansion, and in other places little streets as in a country town.

In the centre of this vast collection of buildings is the Kremlin, situated on a hill nearly two miles in circumference; it is surrounded by high walls of stone and brick, with several towers and gates, the most important of which is the gate of the Redeemer. Over the arch of which is a picture of the Saviour, with a lamp constantly burning.

The passage through the tower is about twenty paces long and every one, be he what he may, Mahommedan, Heathen or Christian, must take off his hat and keep it off till he has passed through to the other side. It is a truly singular sight to watch the carriages coming along at full speed slackening their pace as they approach the sacred gate, while the lord and lackey cross themselves reverently and drive through hat in hand. The first time, forgetting to uncover, I was reminded by a sentinel at some distance, and also my companion to put down her parasol. The greatest care is taken not to allow dogs to enter through the gate.

Within the Kremlin are contained all the most interesting and historically important buildings of Moscow, the holiest churches, with the tombs of the ancient Tzars, Patriarchs and Metropolitans, the remains of the ancient palace of the Tzars, the new one of the late Emperor, the arsenal, the senate house and architectural memorials of every period of Russian history, for every Russian monarch has held it his duty to adorn the Kremlin with some monument.

In the new palace erected by the Emperor Alexander after the great conflagration of 1812, the most remarkable apartment is that of the Emperors containing a bed with a straw mattress, half a dozen leather-covered chairs, and a small looking-glass, making up the whole of the furniture.

The little palace erected by the Emperor Nicholas has some valuable paintings and a good library.

Here is also another bedroom more wonderful than that just described. The former Emperor slept on straw covered with leather, but it was loosely stuffed; the mattress of the Emperor Nicholas, on which he lay is stuffed so that a shutter in its absence would prove no great inconvenience.

It is difficult to say how many churches there are in Moscow, the several accounts differ so widely. Some speak of 1,500, others 500; the former number must include public and private chapels, and those in convents, but the holiest of them all are three in the Kremlin. Though not extensive, they are crowded with pictures and shrines, the heavy pillars that support the fine cupolas are covered with gold from top to bottom, and the walls the same with large fresco paintings, darkened by age.

Here is Mount Sinai, and a golden Moses of pure gold, with a golden table of the law, and also a golden coffer to contain the Host, said to weigh 120,000 ducats. A Bible, the gift of the mother of Peter the Great, the cover so laden with gold and jewels that it requires two men to carry it into the church; it is said to weigh 120 lbs. The emeralds on the cover are an inch long, and the whole binding cost 1,200,000 roubles, or L200,000 sterling.

In the house of the Holy Synod are thirty silver vessels containing the holy oil used in baptising all the children in Russia. It is made of the finest Florence oil, mingled with a number of essences, about three or four gallons serving all Russia for one and a half or two years.

Here one of our fellow travellers, impelled by that curiosity common to the sex, dipped her finger into one of the holy jars and forthwith anointed herself, bidding me to do the same; and, thus tempted, I followed her example and also tried its efficacy upon my other half, without finding, I must confess, any material change. I have since thought that such antics, though not done in derision, might have proved serious and led to our detention and perhaps final removal to a distant part of the empire.

In the church of St. Michael the Archangel are the tombs of the Russian sovereigns, which are raised sepulchres, mostly of brick, in the shape of a coffin and about two feet high.

In addition to the churches and palaces there is in the Kremlin an immense pile of buildings called the Senate.

In the upper storey are collected and arranged the crowns of the early Tzars, also a throne covered with crimson velvet and blazing with diamonds. The two long galleries which open out of this room contain innumerable treasures, the captured crowns of the various countries now forming provinces of this vast empire, as well as those of the Moscovite Tzars, one containing 881 diamonds, another 847, and that of Catherine, the first widow of Peter the Great, 2,536 fine diamonds, to which the Empress added a ruby of enormous size. In addition to these crowns are several rich diadems similarly ornamented.

Many thrones are to be seen in these rooms, one adorned with 2,760 turquoises and other precious stones--that of Michael Romanoff, the first of the reigning families, is enriched with 8,824 diamonds, and the throne of Alexis contains 876 diamonds and 1,220 jewels and many pearls.

Besides these numerous thrones, there are saddles, bridles, and reins and saddle cloths covered most lavishly with diamonds, amethysts and large turquoises--a large boss, adorning the horse's chest, in the centre of which is an immense diamond, and round this a circle of pink topazes, enclosed in pearls, and these again by diamonds, the whole encircled by a broad gold band.

But perhaps the greatest curiosity is a pair of old wooden chairs, used at the coronation of the Emperors. Though made of coarse wood they are said to contain 1,000 precious stones.

The whole extent of one wall is occupied by an array of boots, from the iron jack boots of Peter to the delicate beaver skin of the Emperor Alexander.

On the other side are suspended some Damascus scimitars, and very curious Chinese sabres.

The Arsenal contains nearly 900 cannon, weighing about 400 tons, a great number French, taken during the disastrous retreat in 1812. Among all these warlike trophies you will be proud to learn very few are English.

Close to the tower of Ivan Veliki is placed on a massive pedestal the mighty bell. It was cast by the command of the Empress Ann in 1730, and bears her figure in flowing robes on its surface, beneath which is a deep border of flowers. It is said the tower on which it was originally hung was burnt in 1737, and its fall buried the enormous mass deep in the earth, and broke a huge fragment from it.

In the spring of 1837, exactly a century after it fell, the Emperor Nicholas caused it to be removed and placed on its present pedestal, with the broken fragment beside it. The fragment is about 6 feet high and 3 feet thick.