Part 2

An’ up on Woodland Avenue, A young, old lady, kind an’ true, With han’some tresses gray enough, But still on earth, an’ “up to snuff,” Will tell you, when we go that way, (If she hasn’t changed her mind today) That, though the years have brought her nigh All earthly good that cash can buy, She’d give them all for that one night, When, from the sap fire’s fadin’ light, We wandered homeward side by side, An’ kindled flames that never died, An’ felt confession’s sudden charm, An’ slowly walkin’ arm-in-arm, With no one there to laugh or scoff, Just had a private sugarin’-off.

VERMONT MAPLE SYRUP AND THE ENVIRONMENT OF MANUFACTURE.

E. WELLMAN BARNARD, Open Ridge, Springfield, Vt.

When Vermonters congregate at some special social function when responses are expected concerning the state and its products, the speakers may be relied on to advance at least the claim of excellence for the men it sends to other states and countries to become noted factors in the land of their adoption; for its gracious women; for its pure bred Morgan horses and its far famed maple sweets. These claims are in a great measure valid and the inborn pride that vouches for them is pardonable, for of the first it is only necessary to consult municipal, state and national Blue Books to find corroborative evidence; the second are known the world around in art and song and story. The supple Morgan, elastic to the tread of his native hills, with arching neck and prancing feet, an ear for martial music, and an intelligence too often of a higher degree than his master, has enlivened the trotting and road stock of the country. It is of the last product and the environment of its manufacture we will treat. Vermont has become as justly celebrated for its fine flavored maple products, as for the silky fibre of its merino wool. For the climate and soil contribute to that end as much as do the soils and climate of Cuba and Sumatra to the delicate aroma of smoking tobacco, and it is safe to say that nowhere in the known world do these exact conditions occur to such a great degree as in the section which comprises upper New England and some portions of New York and Canada. There is probably no crop dependent upon the elements, so sensitive to and actuated by meteorological conditions as this, from the day the bud of the maple bursts forth a tiny leaf in May or June to the day of sap flowing in the March or April following. The summer’s heat is quite as essential as the winter cold, for the former makes the starchy growth to the tree that the latter converts into sugar, and while the sugar maker is blistering in his hay field in mid-summer or putting up the fires to keep out 30° below zero temperature when winter shuts him in, he knows the right forces are at work in nature’s laboratory to produce his sugar crop, and is so patient in his discontent. The sugar season may commence early in March or it may be delayed until April, all again “depends on the weather.” The old time saying “When ye ancient moon of April shall glow so shall ye maple sap in abundance flow,” often holds good, but when it sometimes happens there are two last quarters of a moon in April the sugar maker can take his choice as to which he will close the harvest.

As the sun advances northward from its long southern sojourn and the north and south winds lock and interlock for supremacy, the frost and fury line gradually recedes and the more direct actinic rays of the sun thaws out the hard frozen timber, the crows hold their annual matrimonial pow-wow for pairing; blue birds come and a snow crust often forms at night hard enough to hold a man if not a team. It is then the sugar maker begins to think of his annual effort.

All up-to-date plants have substantial buildings, running water and heaters for washing; use galvanized iron tanks for gathering and storage; galvanized iron or tin buckets and sap spouts and also one of the more modern evaporators. This often represents a cash outlay quite sufficient to handle some business in town and is in use only two or three weeks in the year, the rest of the time being idle unless the owner includes the making of cider apple jellies in the fall and provides himself with a copper evaporator for the purpose.

If the sugar maker has been wise he has erected his sugar house along side a bank or declivity at least 30 feet high and easy of approach so that he can handle all the sap by gravity from the gathering tank downward to the straining tank and on to the holding tanks and then into the evaporator; each being well below the other. He uses an iron arch and stack which he keeps well coated with asphalt varnish to prevent rust and in case the draft of his arch is not good uses a Fenn rotary chimney top on his stack. Of course he has an ample supply of wood fuel that has been provided a year or more in advance under an adjoining shed so that it may be _very_ dry for a quick fire is one of the main factors of rapid evaporation so necessary for good product, and another quite as important is that the evaporator room be built for it, with a space of about 5 feet all around it, and the walls sealed close to make a hot air draft upward. He does not need to kill the goose that lays the golden egg by providing sound rock maple wood. Any timber will do if dry; old dry pine stumps are the _ne plus ultra_ and hemlock boughs, a good second.

The competent sugar maker has thoroughly cleansed all his apparatus when he put it up at the end of the season before, but many things will need a new scald. The buckets however, and spouts are usually ready for business if properly stored after a little dusting at short notice and this is most important and often saves the first run of sap, and here let me add, the competent sugar maker must be as alert and use as much care and forethought as the competent hay maker, who _cures_ hay rather than “handles it”. Afterthought does not count at sugaring except for the next season, but then again scatter brains has poor memory. Our city cousin whom we gladly greet in our homes in the “good old summer time” has lost some of the joys of the round of the country season if he has not been on hand on the morning of some fine spicy day when through the brilliant mirror-like atmosphere Mount Washington looks like the Jungfrau, standing aloft in the grand circle of the green and granite mountains of New England so reminiscent of Switzerland, and robin red breast is back to his old home sending forth cheery notes of greeting to go along with the sugar maker and his big load of buckets to the sugar bush, over a road that has been shoveled or plowed or broken through the deep snows on a thawy day ready for the event and in the early morn, while the snow crust will hold up and with plenty of helpers the buckets, perhaps a thousand or more, are hung. The men who tap the trees with the wide swing bit stock and 7-16 bit, but have the experience and adeptness to quickly select new growth timber in the old tapped tree and also to secure an upright resting place for the bucket. The spout men must never chaffer the tree into the inner bark and must not injure the spout when driving it securely in. The bucket should be properly placed and kept so at all future gatherings of sap. There is some discussion pro and con as to the convenience and necessity of covers, but they save lots of trouble in stormy weather and save much good sap that otherwise would be wasted. The coming bucket will be a large one, holding more then 20 quarts, perfectly covered, well flared for ice expansion and compression, concaved on one side to fit the tree and having in the bottom a flat, sap tight, easily worked faucet that will discharge quickly all the sap into the gathering pails without disturbing the bucket. Inventors take notice. Our city friend may take a hand at gathering and note the necessity of getting the sap from tree to evaporator quickly and holding it in as low temperature as possible to prevent acids inherent to the tree circulation getting in adverse chemical action and detrimenting the product. It is a good plan to have good, clean chunks of ice on hand to keep in storage tanks although at times it will not be required because of the low temperature prevailing. The ideal sugar weather is 25° at night and 55° during the day with damp northerly winds.

Now as the sap has commenced running our guest will soon realize that the whole proposition and output depends strictly on the weather conditions. A shift of the wind; a change in temperature or humidity and especially a change of barometer pressure, which is the actual force behind a rapid flow of sap, may turn a big sap day into a complete fiasco and perhaps the often reoccurrence, a whole season, and thus the competent sugar maker with his $30 per month and board “help” and $4.00 per day teams may be quite out of pocket at the end of the season for no cause of his own, even though he obtain $1.50 per gallon for his canned syrup; but then he may charge all this up in his profit and loss account along with his products of milk and cream for the city contractor often backing up the latter with a mortgage on his farm the grain, help and imposed conditions account that the mill may go around by day and year.

Has it ever occurred to the city consumer that the modern dairy building and apparatus so glibly demanded will cost from $3,000 to $5,000 according to locality, for a herd of 25 cows often more than the whole farm does sell for at auction after such improvement has been added. And this holds good as to the sugar output; $1,000 goes a short way for a 2,500 tree establishment and it is the many full buckets that count against short runs, rather than a smaller number with less initial expense. Moreover it should be borne in mind by the town consumer that the farm price demanded has never been exorbitant for any product and that for at least a quarter of a century has ruled so dangerously low that no other business or calling that did not have its habitation and crude food products included in the output would have stood up to it for a season; but then, there is the middleman who is often a needless or exaggerated adjunct that in many lines has become an avaricious parasite to legitimate business—but that is another story and our city friends can help us solve that after they have canvassed the situation by actual contact, and with benefit to themselves.

PRESENT STATUS OF THE INDUSTRY.

BY DR. HARVEY W. WILEY.

(_From the Government Bulletin._)

Development of Present Conditions.

Maple sugar was made by the early settlers as an article of food, the West Indian cane sugar being costly and difficult to transport inland. The commonest kind of “muscovado,” however, was preferred to maple sugar, if it could be obtained. With the increased supply of cane sugar there is little doubt that maple sugar would have almost ceased to be a commodity on the market but for its peculiar flavor, which, while objectionable for general purposes, created a special demand. Thus, while the cheaper and unflavored cane product has almost displaced maple sugar as an article of food, the demand for maple syrup and sugar as luxuries and flavoring materials not only keeps the industry alive, but calls for a continually increasing supply.

It would naturally be supposed that this growth in demand would have been followed by a corresponding increase in production. Such, however, is not the case; while the demand for maple sugar and syrup is continually increasing, the production has been more or less stationary for twenty years. The explanation lies in the fact that, at the very lowest estimate, seven-eighths of the product sold today is a spurious article, which is only in part maple sugar, or is manufactured entirely from foreign materials.

When maple sugar began to come into general demand, the market fell naturally into the hands of the wholesale dealers. The farmers were unorganized, and, as a rule, out of touch with the consumers. Consequently the sugar, made in the early spring, when the farmer was most in need of ready money, was generally either sold to the country store at a low price, or exchanged for cane sugar, pound for pound, irrespective of general market conditions. It was then bought again by the “mixers” and used to flavor a body of glucose or cane sugar six or ten times as great, making a product which was marketed as “pure maple sugar.” The mixers preferred to buy a dark, inferior sugar, because it would go further in the mixture. If the season was bad they bought less, but at almost the same price, and increased the proportion of the adulterant. Thus a shortage in the maple sugar crop has no effect whatever on the general supply. It is also true that while the trade in maple sugar has been steadily growing, the production from the trees has remained stationary. The mixer controls the situation, with the effect of lowering the profits of the farmer, preventing a compensatory increase in price when the crop is short, and retarding progress in the industry by the demand for a low-grade tub sugar.

But there has always been a certain amount of trade in pure maple sugar and syrup. A part of the city and town population comes from the country, where they have known the genuine article, and they have generally been able to supply their wants by dealing directly with the producers. The progressive and well-to-do sugar maker has also worked in this field. Of course there are farmers and others who, having pride and capacity, do their utmost to produce the best goods and market them in the most advantageous manner. Such sugar makers are unwilling to sell their high-grade goods to the mixers at a low price, but make every effort to reach a steady market of regular customers.

In the effort to make such a market more general, several maple sugar makers’ associations have come into existence. That of Vermont is the most notable. The annual meetings of this society have done much to stimulate improved methods, as well as to build up a legitimate trade. The association has established a central market, has adopted a registered trade-mark, and guarantees absolute purity. Its trade, through advertising and other business methods, has reached good proportions. But there is only a very small part of the business, even at the present time, which is not in the hands of the mixers.

The following quotations are from the testimony of Mr. Madden before the House Committee on Interstate and Foreign Commerce, Fifty-seventh Congress, pages 85 and following:

Mr. Madden. I would like to speak to you a moment in regard to maple syrup. That is a subject that will undoubtedly interest you all. We are in a very peculiar position in regard to maple syrup. We do not believe it is right that a syrup composed of maple syrup made from either the sap of the maple tree or from maple sugar and mixed with glucose should be sold as a maple syrup; but we do believe that a maple syrup made from syrup of the maple sugar and mixed with cane-sugar syrup or refined-sugar syrup, I will say—because beet and cane sugar are the same after they have been through boneblack—we do believe that should be sold for maple syrup, and I will tell you why. In the first place, the amount of sap of maple syrup—that is, syrup that is made from boiling the sap of the maple tree without converting it into sugar—is so limited that it would not, in my judgment, supply more than 5 percent of the demand for maple syrup in the United States.

Now, when maple sap is boiled into sugar—and I want to say before I go further that the reason that the amount of sap syrup is so limited is because it is hard to keep it from fermentation, and the season is so short in which the sap runs that it is difficult to manufacture, to boil enough in the camps to supply the demand; consequently a large proportion of the sap in the States where maple sugar is made is boiled into maple sugar. Now, we have found by experience—not by chemical analysis, but by experience—that the maple sugar made from the sap of the maple tree in Ohio is not so strong as the maple sugar made from the sap of the maple tree in Vermont, and that the maple sugar made from the sap of the maple tree in Vermont is not so strong in flavor as that which is made in Canada, in Quebec Province, because it seems the colder the climate, the stronger in flavor the maple sap is.

Now, we buy these various sugars and reduce them to a liquor to make maple syrup, and I will give you my word, gentlemen, if we take a Canadian sugar, which is the highest priced maple sugar we have, it being worth at the present time twelve cents a pound, while Vermont is worth only eight cents a pound—I give you my word that if we make a liquor by melting that Canadian maple sugar, without the addition of sugar to reduce the strength of the flavor, it is so strong you could not use it.

Mr. Coombs. What do you mean by strong?

Mr. Madden. Strong in flavor.

Mr. Coombs. You mean it is positive?

Mr. Madden. The flavor is so positive; yes, sir.

Mr. Coombs. And it is sweet?

Mr. Madden. Sweet, yes; but if you put it on a hot cake you would say right away, “Take it away; I won’t have such stuff,” and you would ordinarily say that it was glucose. You would be wrong, but that is what you would say.

Now the Vermont sugar is not so strong, and it does not require so much cane sugar to reduce that to a flavor comparing with the natural maple syrup obtained from the sap itself; and I tell you that we can take maple sugar and reduce it, blending it with cane sugar—and by that I mean take ordinary cut-loaf sugar, for instance, and melt it—and we can take this syrup that is made by melting the maple sugar and blend it with the white syrup, and we can produce a maple syrup that is in flavor strong enough and yet delicate enough to satisfy the appetite, and that, in my judgment, is better than the sap syrup made from the maple tree for a great majority of the people.

As an illustration, although we get $11.50 per dozen gallons for a sap maple syrup that is boiled from the sap of the maple tree and the character of the maple syrup that I have just described, about 95 percent of our business is on the syrup that is made from the maple sugar and the cane sugar rather than on the syrup made from the sap itself. Now, if we have to take this maple syrup and brand it as cane sugar, or have any such restrictions, we can not sell it. Now, what are we going to do? We do not believe in frauds any more than you do. We think just as much of our reputation as you do of yours; but we do not want to be held responsible for conditions that we have not built up.

Mr. Coombs. It seems to me your whole argument has illustrated that everybody who buys these things knows he is not buying the pure article.

Mr. Richardson. It is either that or you are deceiving them, one or the other.

Mr. Madden. Well, I will answer another phase of that question.

Now, it is commonly assumed, I think, that these blends, mixtures, substitutes, and what some of our theoretical gentlemen call commercial frauds, are done for the purpose of palming off on the people something that is cheap or inferior at a high price. Right there is where the mistake is made. The profits on that class of goods are less to us than on the higher class and more expensive goods, because competition forces these lower-class commodities down to such an extent that they pay us less profit than any other.

We could not take a maple sugar and mix it with cane sugar and obtain the price for pure maple-sugar syrup unless it had the quality, unless it cost so much. In other words, in speaking of maple syrup—and here is the part of this I forgot to speak of—if you take maple sugar and reduce it to the liquor, as we call it, and had to sell it without the addition of any reducing sugar or white syrup—not glucose, but pure cane or beet sugar—if you have to sell it without doing that, it would be so expensive as to be prohibitory, because with Canadian maple sugar worth twelve cents a pound today, it taking eight pounds of it to make a gallon of syrup, you would have a price of nearly a dollar a gallon for your liquor as a first cost, without the cost of package. * * *

The above quotations will illustrate sufficiently well the processes of manufacturers and dealers in adulterating maple syrup. It is evident from this testimony that if the pure article be obtained when purchased at random it is by accident rather than by intention. Whatever may be the condition of the products when they leave the manufacturers in Vermont, New York, Ohio, or Canada, it is evident that all that part which goes into general commerce is subject to extensive adulterations. Only that part which enters domestic commerce, that is sold directly by the manufacturer to the consumer, can be considered above suspicion.

It is evident from the above résumé of the subject that the adulteration of maple syrup is practiced to an enormous extent. As stated by one of the witnesses, it is doubtful if more than 5 percent of the amount sold in this country is the genuine article. It is evident that the makers of the genuine article are forced into competition with these extensive adulterations, thus lowering the legitimate price. Every grove of maple trees in the United States would be worth a great deal more to its owner if the state and national laws should be so framed as to eradicate this great evil. Such laws would permit the sale of these mixed goods under their proper names, and thus protect both the manufacturer and consumer.

Necessity for Sugar Makers’ Organizations.

With a steadily growing demand for maple syrup, which today is almost entirely supplied by the mixer, the producers of pure syrup can hope to control the trade only through organization. The difference between the pure and the adulterated product is so marked that there would be little question as to choice, with the genuine sugar known to the popular trade. A large number of the consumers hardly know pure maple syrup when they taste it, and as so great a part of that on the market is spurious, they have little chance to learn. Under such a condition the market can be gained for the pure product only by means of united action. An example of such action is the present Vermont Sugar Growers’ Association.