Part 12

The next year saw the official opening of the Zion-Mt. Carmel highway, one of the most spectacular engineering feats in the history of road-building. From the canyon floor the road turns to the east up Pine Creek Canyon and spirals upward on a four-mile roadway to a tunnel paralleling the face of the vertical cliffs for 5,613 feet. Five galleries cut from the tunnel to the canyon wall offer the motorist vantage points for viewing the awe-inspiring scenery. Construction within the National Park cost $2,000,000; from the Park to Mt. Carmel a state and federal project, also cut in great part from solid rock, cost in excess of $500,000. Still later the road up the floor of Zion from the checking station on the main highway was reconstructed and made a modern oil-surfaced highway. Thereafter, until America’s entry into World War II, each summer brought greater throngs of visitors into the wonderland.

At long last the nation had awakened to the greatness of the gift nature had bestowed upon it, and in future years unnumbered generations will come to marvel at the wonders of the country which is southern Utah and at the austere majesty of the Great White Throne—generations free from the dread and superstition that made primitive races fear its unimagined heights no less than its long shadows and dazzling brilliance in the sun.

Symbol of Nature’s handiwork, this central and most magnificent of Zion’s features still echoes the distant footfall of Spanish padre and American Frontiersmen passing unwittingly by its dooryard; it is mindful of the day when the first Mormon pioneer lifted uncomprehending eyes to the solitude of its summit, and of that other day when religious fervor called it Zion, the dwelling place of peace. Men have come, cutting their trails, building their roads, roofing their shelters, dreaming their dreams. The human tide around its base has ebbed and flowed, according to human wont, but it remains serene, aloof, alone. It will be so a thousand years from now.

EPILOGUE

Twenty-one years after Bryce Canyon became a national park, a “coming of Age” party was celebrated at Bryce Canyon on September 15, 1949. The Utah Parks Company acted as host. The Park Service cooperated by inviting to the celebration all those that could be found who were present at the dedication in 1928.

The guests began arriving at Bryce Canyon the day before the celebration. A group that met in the dining room that evening included M. R. Tillotson, Regional Director of the Park Service; P. P. Patraw, Assistant Director and former Superintendent of Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks; Dr. Harold C. Bryant, Superintendent of Grand Canyon National Park; Dr. Angus M. Woodbury, Professor of Zoology, University of Utah, formerly Park Naturalist of Zion and Bryce; their wives and Mr. Victor Petrosso, formerly manager of El Tovar Lodge at Grand Canyon. Others arrived next day including B. J. Finch, formerly District Engineer of the U. S. Bureau of Public Roads; W. P. Rogers, Manager of the Utah Parks Company; Joel L. Priest, Jr. and E. C. Schmidt of the Union Pacific; Mr. and Mrs. David Rust of Provo, Utah; Mr. and Mrs. M. V. Walker, Naturalist of Zion and Bryce National Parks; Jack Christensen of Cedar City; D. C. Dix of the Salt Lake Tribune; and other officials of the Park Service and Utah Parks Company, making a total of 41. Many other invited guests expressed regret at not being able to attend. Those that were present at both the 1928 and 1949 celebrations included the Tillotsons, Finch, Woodbury, Christensen, Schmidt and the Rusts.

Festivities started at noon with a luncheon in the Lodge dining room, after which, about 40 guests were taken on a tour in an ultra modern luxurious Utah Parks bus by Park Naturalist M. V. Walker along the Bryce Rim as far as Rainbow Point and Yovimpa View where everyone enjoyed the friendly greetings of old acquaintances, the superb natural sculptures and the marvelous vistas from the high points where the Aquarius Plateau, the Henry Mountains, the Kaiparowits Plateau, Navajo Mountain and the Kaibab were all to be seen in the unsurpassed landscape.

At 7 p.m., the group converged on the superintendent’s residence where Mr. and Mrs. Smith held open house and dispensed hospitality lavishly.

At 8:15 p.m., the group moved to the lodge dining room where a sumptuous banquet given by the Utah Parks Company was followed by a program at which Superintendent Smith presided and interestingly introduced the speakers. Ranger in charge, John G. Lewis gave the address of welcome. Reminiscences of the early days in the Utah National Parks were related by Dr. Woodbury, who also referred to the outstanding work which Mr. B. J. Finch, formerly of the Bureau of Public Roads, did in pioneering the Zion-Mt Carmel Highway and Tunnel.

Mr. Tillotson gave the main speech of the evening, in which he called attention to the great growth in travel into Bryce from 21,977 in 1929 to 189,493 in 1949, and pointed to the fine work of the Utah Parks Company in making this possible. He also reported that Dr. Thomas H. McDonald, Commissioner of the U. S. Bureau of Public Roads, who had been present in 1928 but could not come in 1949, wrote that “Bryce Canyon, since I first saw it, has been to me one of the most delightful places in the West. I have long felt that a vacation road from Southwest Colorado crossing the Colorado River and coming into Bryce Canyon through Escalante, if properly developed and controlled, offers the best opportunity in the west ...” and thus kindled a fire under the hopes of all Bryce enthusiasts for it would open up the heart of the great scenic area of southeastern Utah, of which, Zion, Bryce and Wayne Wonderland are on the outskirts.

Mr. W. P. Rogers responded with a witty talk about old times, spoke of the fine cooperation of the Park Service and proposed a further reunion in another five years.

The next day, the writer retraced old trails in Zion Canyon and visited the museum and park headquarters where Naturalist Walker explained the developments taking place. Especially prominent was the great increase in the literature available to the public provided by the Natural History Association that had been organized by the writer in 1929. This included pictures, colored slides and publications, among which the works of Dr. H. E. Gregory on the geology of the region were outstanding.

FOOTNOTES

[2]J. W. Powell, _Exploration of the Colorado River of the West_ (Washington, D.C., 1875), p. 111. Erroneously reported as September 12, 1870.

[3]William R. Palmer, “Pahute Indian Government and Laws,” _Utah Historical Quarterly_, Vol. II, No. 2, pp. 35-52.

[4]The tuna mentioned probably refers to cactus; and the maize and calabashes to corn and squash. The name, Parrusis, equivalent to Parrusits, undoubtedly referred to the Virgin River Indians. It simply means people living on the Par-roos River. Fifty years later, in 1826, Jedediah Strong Smith, found Indians on the Santa Clara Creek raising corn and pumpkins. Maurice Sullivan, _The Travels of Jedediah Smith_ (Santa Ana, California, 1934), pp. 27-28.

[5]Cf. H. S. Auerbach, ed., “Father Escalante’s Journal,” in _Utah Historical Quarterly_, Vol. XI, pp. 85, 91.

[6]G. H. Heap, _Central Route to the Pacific, Journal of the Expedition of E. H. Beale and G. H. Heap in 1853_ (Washington, D.C., 1854), p. 99.

[7]Escalante, “Diario,” in _Documents para la historia de Mexico_ (Mexico City), ser. 2, Vol. 1, p. 37.

Cf. also: H. S. Auerbach, “Father Escalante’s Journal, 1776-77” in _Utah Historical Quarterly_, Vol. XI, pp. 1-142; H. L. Bolton, “Escalante in Dixie and the Arizona Strip,” _New Mexico Review_ (Santa Fe, 1928), Vol. III, No. 1; H. E. Gregory, “Spanish Entradas in Kaiparowits Region,” _U. S. Geological Survey Prof. Paper_ (Washington, D.C., 1931), p. 164; W. R. Harris, _The Catholic Church in Utah_ (Salt Lake City, 1909); Philip Harry, “Brief of Escalante’s Journal” in _Simpson’s Explorations, 1859_, Appendix R. (Washington, D.C., 1860), p. 490.

[8]Cf. Auerbach, _loc. cit._, pp. 85-86.

[9]_Ibid._, p. 5.

[10] H. H. Bancroft, _History of Utah_ (San Francisco, 1884-86), pp. 22, 23. H. M. Chittenden, _The American Fur Trade of the Far West_ (New York, 1935), 2 Vols. Robert Glass Cleland, _From Wilderness to Empire_ (New York, 1944). H. C. Dale, _The Ashley-Smith Explorations_ (Los Angeles, 1918). T. E. Farish, _History of Arizona_, (Phoenix, Arizona, 1916). Albert Gallatin, _Synopsis of Indian Tribes_ (Worcester, Mass., 1836) map, p. 265. P. T. Hanna, “California’s Debt to Jedediah Strong Smith,” in _Touring Topics_ (Los Angeles, California, September 1926). C. H. Merriam, “Earliest Crossings of the Deserts of Utah and Nevada to Southern California; Route of Jedediah S. Smith,” _California Historical Society Quarterly_, 1923, Vol. 2, pp. 228-237. J. G. Neihardt, _The Splendid Wayfaring_ (New York, 1920). Maurice Sullivan, _The Travels of Jedediah Smith_ (Santa Ana, California, 1934). A. M. Woodbury, “The Route of Jedediah S. Smith in 1826 from the Great Salt Lake to the Colorado River,” _Utah Historical Quarterly_, 1931, 4:35-46.

[11]From letter of Jedediah Strong Smith, Maurice Sullivan, _The Travels of Jedediah Smith_, pp. 15, 27-28.

[12]C. L. Camp, ed., “The Chronicles of George C. Yount,” _California Historical Society Quarterly_, 1923.

[13]Cf. Herbert S. Auerbach, “Old Trails, Old Forts, Old Trappers and Traders,” _Utah Historical Quarterly_, Vol. IX, 1941, pp. 13-63.

[14]Cf. J. C. Fremont, _Narrative of the Exploring Expedition to the Rocky Mountains_ (New York, 1846).

[15]What is now the Virgin River was called Sulphur Creek by Escalante in 1776. Jedediah S. Smith named it Adams River, to which he adhered in letters written on both trips of 1826 and 1827. This upsets the idea that he named it for Thomas Virgin, a member of his party. George C. Yount, as recorded in 1923 by Charles L. Camp, (_loc. cit._, p. 10), told of entering the Virgin River valley on a trip in 1830, but this is no assurance that it was so named at that early date. It bore the name of Rio Virgin in 1844 when Fremont passed over the Spanish Trail and doubtless the name was given between 1827 and 1844. In Fremont’s time, the Muddy River was called “Rio de Los Angeles,” and the Mountain Meadows “las Vegas de Santa Clara” (the Meadows of St. Clara).

[16]Fremont, _op. cit._, p. 168.

[17]Cf. Franklin D. Daines, “Separatism in Utah, 1847-1870,” in _Annual Report of the American Historical Association for the Year 1917_ (Washington, D.C., 1920).

[18]Dale L. Morgan, “The State of Deseret,” _Utah Historical Quarterly_, Vol. VIII, pp. 67-239.

[19]Cf. Leland H. Creer, _Utah and the Nation_ (Seattle, Washington, 1929); Robert J. Dwyer, _The Gentile Comes to Utah_ (Washington, D.C., 1941). Andrew L. Neff, _History of Utah_ (Salt Lake City, 1940).

[20]“L.D.S. Journal History,” November 13, 1847 (in files of L.D.S. Church Historian’s Office, Salt Lake City, Utah).

[21]There are many references in Mormon records to Fremont’s report. Orson Hyde’s letter of April 26, 1845, to Church officials in Nauvoo mentions obtaining a copy of Fremont’s report and having Stephen A. Douglas frank it to Joseph Smith in Nauvoo. The _Nauvoo Neighbor_, September 24, 1845, devoted four and one-half columns of the front page to discussions of and quotations from this report. The Journal of William Clayton, secretary to Brigham Young, frequently refers to Fremont’s report and map. In Volume 11 and 12 of the _Millenial Star_, Orson Pratt makes a number of references to Fremont’s report.

[22]“Journal History,” September 17, 1849.

[23]“L.D.S. Journal History,” September 20 and October 2, 1849; Cf. W. A. Chaffant, _Death Valley_ (Stanford University Press, 1939), pp. 17-22; R. G. Cleland, _From Wilderness to Empire_ (New York, 1944), pp. 249-255; William Lewis Manly, _Death Valley in ’49_ (New York, 1924), pp. 201-203.

[24]Report of the Southern Exploring Expedition submitted to the Legislative Council of Deseret by Parley P. Pratt, February 9, 1850 (original in L.D.S. Church Historian’s Office).

[25]_Loc. cit._

[26]“Call”—The Mormons were a peculiarly close-knit harmonious group working cooperatively together. In order to make for efficiency in the social group, each one was expected to do voluntarily and with unquestioning obedience the part assigned by the leaders. Thus individuals were usually “called” to go on missions, to fill an office, to go as a colonist, to work on the temple or any other unusual problem. The “call,” at least in the early days, was practically a command.

[27]“Journal History,” January 17, 1851.

[28]Neff, _History of Utah_, pp. 302-310.

[29]Heap, _Central Route to the Pacific_, p. 95.

[30]_Ibid._, p. 99.

[31]Jules Remy and Julius Brenchley, _A Journal of Salt Lake City: Being a Sketch of the History, Religion and Customs of the Mormons_ (London, 1861), 2 Vols.; Vol. II, p. 363.

[32]The party included J. D. Lee, Chapman Duncan, John Steele, C. Y. Webb, L. and William Barton, J. and Miles Anderson, B. Jones, Zadock Judd, R. H. Gillespie, J. H. Dunton.

[33]“L.D.S. Journal History.”

[34]_Deseret News_, August 7, 1852. See also “Journal of Priddy Meeks,” _Utah Historical Quarterly_, Vol. X, 1942, p. 187.

[35]“Journal History.”

[36]The missionaries included the following: Rufus C. Allen, Pres.; Clark Ames, S. F. Atwood, T. D. Brown, clerk, Hyrum Burgess, Prime T. Coleman, Jacob Hamblin, Elnathan Eldridge, Augustus P. Hardy, Thales H. Haskell, William Henefer, Ira Hatch, Benjamin Knell, Samuel Knight, David Lewis, John Lott, John R. Murdock, Robert Richie, Isaac Riddle, Richard Robinson, Lorenzo W. Roundy, and Amos G. Thornton.

[37]The original missionaries to the Virgin and Santa Clara Valleys in 1854, as reported in “Journal History,” were: Jacob Hamblin, Samuel Knight, Ira Hatch, Richard Robinson, Amos G. Thornton, Prime T. Coleman, Benjamin Knell, Thales Haskell, Robert Dixon, Isaac Riddle, Robert Ritchie, David Tullis. Probably several others should be added to this list: Rufus Allen, A. P. Hardy, Nephi Johnson, William Henefer, Ira Hatch and perhaps others.

[38]“Journal History,” letter of Richard Robinson, July 13, 1854.

[39]Neff, _op. cit._, pp. 290-292.

[40]Cf. Juanita Brooks, ed., “Diary of Thales Haskell,” _Utah Historical Quarterly_, Vol. XII, No. 1 and 2, pp. 70-98.

[41]Remy and Brenchley, _op. cit._, Vol. II, p. 388.

[42]Neff, _op. cit._, p. 291.

[43]_Ibid._, p. 292.

[44]Original MS in possession of Lovina A. J. Farnsworth, Kanab, Utah.

[45]Interview at Kanab, Utah, August 11, 1931.

[46]James G. Bleak, “Annals of the Southern Utah Mission” (Ms. in files of Utah State Historical Society).

[47]“Journal History,” October 7, 1861.

[48]The scouting party included Apostles George Albert Smith and Erastus Snow, Dr. James M. Whitmore, Horace S. Eldridge, Robert J. Golding and Isaac Stewart.

[49]Joseph Black, “Journal,” in possession of his son, Peter Black, Delta, Utah.

[50]Interview with E. C. Behunin by J. W. Thornton at Zion Canyon.

Interview with Ezra Stevens, at Mt. Carmel, Utah, August 14, 1933.

Interview with Peter Munk, at Manti, Utah, September 1, 1933.

[51]Charles L. Walker, “Journal” (copy in the files of the Utah State Historical Society, Salt Lake City, Utah).

[52]John Langston, “History of John Langston” (Ms. in files of Utah State Historical Society).

[53]The settlers of Rockville included the following; beginning at west end on south side of street, Elijah Newman, a wheelwright from Parowan who had operated sawmills in Parowan Canyon and was well acquainted with Cedar Mountain; Mr. Frauschum, a jeweler from Provo; Mr. Scoggins, an Englishman; John C. Hall, a self-educated man from Salt Lake City; George Staples, farmer from Lehi; Albert and Edward Huber from France; Thomas Hall, a tinker from Salt Lake City; Joe and Jim McFate, farmers; Jacob E. and James P. Terry; and Mr. Coombs. On the north side of street beginning at west end, Samuel A. Kenner, doctor and journalist; Henry Jennings from Provo; William H. Carpenter, broom-maker; Hyrum and Ezra Strong, farmers; Henry Stocks from England, ironmonger by trade, who made the first molasses mill rollers in southern Utah and brought the mill to Rockville; William Ashton (“picked on” by the boys); William Crawford from Draper; John Langston from Draper; Daniel Q. Dennett, fifer in Mormon Battalion; Tom Flanigan, who sold out to William L. Draper a month later; and Asa York, carpenter; on land to the north; James Green stayed one summer. (Interview with James Jennings at Rockville, Utah, August 14, 1933).

[54]In the fall of 1862 the following came to Shunesburg: the mother of young Hyrum Stevens and his three brothers, Amos, Ezra and Charles; two uncles, Henry and Barney Stevens, each with two families; Albert Petty with two families, and John J. Allred. Charlie Klapper soon left and Albert and George Petty and Hardin Whitlock moved over to Springdale during the winter of 1862-63. In the fall of 1863 came James Thaxton and Samuel K. Gifford, a chairmaker.

[55]The first settlers of Springdale included: Isaac Behunin and sons, Albert Petty, George Petty, William Black and three sons, William, George and Joseph; Robert Brown, Newman Brown, Hardin (Howard?) Whitlock, Hyrum Morris, C. G. Averet, Mr. Powell, Mr. Davis, Mr. Norton and Joseph Millett.

[56]James G. Black, _loc. cit._

[57]Neff, _op. cit._, p. 908.

[58]There is a difference of opinion as to the location of the cabin. O. D. Gifford placed it about ⅙ mile above the lodge, on a flat since washed away by the river. E. C. Behunin, after an absence of 57 years, placed it near the forks of the road that lead to the lodge and swimming pool. He was evidently mistaken, for his description of the location of his father’s farm seems to indicate that Gifford’s location is correct. He was certain that the old river meander just north of the lodge (now artificially filled in) was not there in the early days, but the physical evidences before straightening the river and building the permanent road definitely indicate that it was. Heap’s farm, which he says was separated from his father’s by the river, was above this meander. James H. Jennings, who owned the place afterward, says that Behunin was mistaken. (Interview with James Jennings at Rockville, Utah, August 15, 1933).

[59]Interview with O. D. Gifford at Springdale, Utah, September 6, 1925.

[60]Interview with O. D. Gifford at Springdale, Utah, September 6, 1925.

[61]Interview at Hurricane, Utah, August 26, 1933.

[62]For a detailed account of this experiment, cf. Edward J. Allen, _The Second United Order Among the Mormons_ (New York, 1936).

[63]Interview with B. A. Riggs, near Kanab, Utah, August 11, 1931.

[64]Interview with Mrs. Mary Jane Stout at Hurricane, Utah, August 25, 1933.

[65]Creer, _Utah and the Nation_, 151.

[66]Juanita Brooks, “The Journal of Thales Haskell,” _Utah Historical Quarterly_, Vol. XII, pp. 69-98.

[67]_Loc. cit._, p. 81, 95, 96.

[68]Juanita Brooks, ed., “Indian Relations on the Mormon Frontier,” _Utah Historical Quarterly_, Vol. XII, January-April, 1944, p. 42.

[69]These included William J. Jolley, Henry B. M. Jolley, Silas Hoyt and Henry Gardner.

[70]Charles L. Walker, “Journal” (Copy in the files of the Utah State Historical Society).

[71]In files of the Adjutant General’s Office, Salt Lake City, Utah.

[72]Letter of J. M. Higbee to W. H. Dame, July 10, 1866. Adjutant General’s Office, Salt Lake City, Utah.

[73]Report of expedition by Franklin B. Woolley for James Andrus, September 18, 1866, at St. George, to Brigadier General Erastus Snow, Adjutant General’s Office, Salt Lake City, Utah.

[74]Order No. 16, November 29, 1866, by General Erastus Snow, Adjutant General’s Office, Salt Lake City, Utah.

[75]Copy of the journal of a scouting expedition against marauding Navajo Indians, February 25 to March 12, 1869 by Edwin G. Woolley, Adjutant, filed in Adjutant General’s Office, Salt Lake City, Utah.

[76]Cf. J. W. Powell, ed., _The Colorado River_ (Washington, D.C., 1875), pp. 128-132.

[77]James Little. ed., _Autobiography of Jacob Hamblin_ (Salt Lake City, 1909), p. 106. (Hamblin erroneously dates the peace trip 1871.)

[78]Little, _op. cit._, p. 110.

[79]_Ibid._, p. 119.

[80]“Journal History,” Letter dated April 5, 1870.

[81]These included, in addition to Levi Stewart, Moses M. Farnsworth, Allan Frost, Edward A. Noble, John Rider, John Morgan, William Thompson, Edward Cooke, Caleb D. Brinton, Mr. Burt, and families.

[82]Letter from A. Milton Musser, September 10, 1870, published in _Deseret News_, and collated in “L.D.S. Journal History.”

[83]Interview at Kanab, Utah, October 21, 1933.

[84]“The Life of Levi Stewart,” biographical sketch by his granddaughter, Margery Browne Cottam (copy in files of A. M. Woodbury).

[85]F. S. Dellenbaugh, _A Canyon Voyage_ (New York, 1908), pp. 166-167.

[86]Fredonia—Suggested by Erastus Snow, allegedly from “free” and “dona” (Spanish for lady or woman), thus, “free woman.” Actually, the name is simply a variant of “freedom,” invented shortly after 1800 by a certain Dr. Charles Mitchell, according to George R. Stewart, _Names on the Land_ (New York, 1945), p. 173.

[87]Kumen Jones, “First settlement of San Juan County, Utah,” _Utah Historical Quarterly_, Vol. II, No. 1 (January, 1929).

[88]“Journal of Josephine Catherine Chatterly Wood,” _Utah Historical Quarterly_, Vol. X, pp. 128-136.

[89]Mark A. Pendleton, “The Orderville United Order of Zion” and Emma Carroll Seegmiller, “Personal Memories of the United Order of Orderville,” _Utah Historical Quarterly_, Vol. VII, 1939.

[90]Powell, _op. cit._, p. 110.

[91]_Ibid._, p. 111.

[92]Herbert E. Gregory, ed., “Diary of A. H. Thompson,” _Utah Historical Quarterly_, Vol. IX, 1939, pp. 89, 92.

[93]“Cougar Hunting on the Rim of the Grand Canyon,” _The Outlook_ (London, England, October 4, 1913), pp. 259-266.

[94]Letter of Frederick Vining Fisher to the writer, September 22, 1933.

[95]Memorandum of Horace M. Albright, August 4, 1933, in files of A. M. Woodbury.

INDEX