Part 4

To make the mayonnaise put the yolks of two eggs in a pastry bowl, and, while stirring with a spoon, keep adding drop by drop the best Lucca salad oil to the amount of a teacupful. When all the oil is used, stir in a teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar. It is imperative that nothing should be added to the yolks before the oil, or the mayonnaise will not rise. For the same reason you must stir always the same way. To make a larger quantity add half a teacupful of oil for each yolk, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar. If possible a mayonnaise should not be made more than half an hour before it is required.

_Fowl._ The chicken should be carved and laid on a bed of mixed salad with a few slices of beet-root round the outside of the dish.

_Lobster._ The lobster should be taken out of the shell and laid on a bed of lettuce.

_54. Salmon and Cucumber Sandwiches_

Pound some fresh salmon in a mortar with a drain of anchovy sauce. Spread it lightly on some thin bread and butter. Add a couple of thin slices of cucumber and a little salt. Salmon and shrimp paste can be used if preferred.

_55. Prawn Sandwiches_

Cut thin some bread and butter. Cut the prawns very fine and lay them on the buttered bread with a little mustard and cress, pepper and salt.

_56. Sardine Sandwiches_

Scrape the sardines and remove the bones. Take eight slices of toast about an inch thick, trim round the edges, and split with a knife. Butter lightly while hot and lay the sardines between the split toast not too thickly. Add a little red or white pepper if preferred and then close the toast which should be then cut into two and served hot.

_57. Sardines on Toast_

Take the sardines out of the box and scrape off the scales, split them and remove the backbone. Lay two sardines (four halves) on each slice of buttered toast, sprinkle with a little red pepper and place in the oven. Serve very hot.

_58. Beef and Tomato Sandwiches_

Take a sandwich loaf and cut the crust off on three sides. Pass the knife down between the back crust and the crumb and slice the bread against it. Butter each slice of bread and lay a thin slice of beef on it, then a thin slice of tomato. Lay the other bread and butter on the top with a pinch of pepper and salt.

_59. Caviare Savoury_

Take some slices of buttered toast, spread lightly with caviare and put into the oven for a few seconds before serving.

_60. Hard-Boiled Eggs for Garniture of Sandwiches_

Have the water boiling, put the eggs into it and boil for fifteen minutes quickly. Remove with a spoon and plunge them into cold water; if the eggs are fresh this should avoid the green line which usually forms round the white.

_61. Hors d’œuvres_

Hors d’œuvres make a nice beginning to a meal, do not give much trouble to prepare, and dress the table laid out for lunch in an interesting manner. My practice was to use four to six glass dishes.

_Sardines._ Remove carefully from the tin and lay on the dish with their tails in the middle of the dish and the head part of the fish towards the outer edge of the dish.

_Anchovies._ The French ones bottled in oil are the most profitable and will keep quite a long time if carefully corked and the oil covers the fish. Unroll them and split them lengthwise, laying them four or five lengths one way of the dish and four or five the other, leaving little squares of the dish visible. Fill each of these with the chopped up white of an egg boiled hard.

A caviare hors d’œuvre should be served in the pot, packed in crushed ice and plain toast provided on the table for it.

_Stuffed Eggs._ Have three or four eggs boiled hard. Place them in a basin of cold water. Remove the shells as soon as they are cool enough to hold in the fingers. Rinse in the water and cut each egg across the middle, and cut a thin slice from each rounded end of the egg to enable it to stand in an upright position. Remove the yolks into a plate and mash them with a dinner fork, adding two teaspoonfuls of anchovy sauce (bottled), one tablespoonful of cream, half a teaspoonful of dry mustard. Work all together with the fork, and when perfectly mixed, fill in the whites with the mixture. Cut a French olive into strips lengthwise round the stone and place one piece across the top of each egg to resemble a handle.

_Eggs with a Mayonnaise Sauce._ Cut lengthwise four hard-boiled eggs after removing the shells as directed and lay them white side up on the dish, which must be rather deep. Make a little mayonnaise sauce (proportion of one yolk of an egg to half a teacup of salad oil stirred into it drop by drop and half a teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar), pour the sauce over the eggs.

_Beet-root._ Boiled whole and cut into thin rings, pour over it a little vinegar and dust a little powdered sugar on it and a little finely chopped onion.

_Tomatoes._ Skinned and prepared as directed for tomato salad.

_Celery._ Cut or rather curled as you would peel rhubarb and dressed either with oil and vinegar or with a little mayonnaise sauce to which has been added half a teaspoonful of dry mustard.

Then there are olives, stuffed or otherwise, tunny fish or smoked salmon which can be bought in small tins and do not require any dressing. Simply serve on the dish.

_62. Chocolate_

Place a quarter of a pound of Chocolate Menier in a stone saucepan for ten minutes covered with cold water. Let it stand on the side of the stove. Work it into a smooth paste and add water or milk to make it a pint. No sugar. Place it over the fire and bring it to a boil. Do this six times, lifting it from the fire each time it boils.

_63. Coffee for Four Persons_

Put into an earthenware saucepan a teacupful of roasted coffee freshly ground, and pour over one pint and a half of boiling water. Bring to a boil twice. Tip a tablespoonful of cold water into the boiling coffee. Let it stand for five minutes and strain through a strainer into a warmed coffee pot.

SOUPS, STOCKS

_General Remarks_

If the vegetables are used for flavouring only, they may remain in the soup all the time it is cooking. If, on the other hand, they are intended to be dished in the soup they should be put in only in time to be cooked thoroughly.

Every kitchen should contain in a cupboard always a bottle of cooking sherry, a bottle of mushroom catsup, one of Worcester sauce, one of tomato (bottled) sauce, some fresh lemons, vinegar, the best salad oil, a packet of sweet herbs, bovril, nutmeg, cloves, and spice.

The object in adding sugar is to clear the soup or stock and will be found as effective as eggshells.

In preserving stocks for soups, gravies, etc., care should be taken never to allow the receptacle containing it to be covered--after it is strained--except with a perforated meat cover.

Stock cannot be kept for more than two days without being reboiled. Never neglect to dash cold water into it while still boiling or the object of settling the solid particles and raising the fat will not be attained.

_64. Beef Tea_

Take one pound of leg of beef not fat. One pound makes about a pint of good beef tea. Cut the meat several times across, taking care not to cut it through. Sprinkle with a half teaspoonful of salt, put into a stone jar or saucepan with one piece of loaf sugar, add one and a half pints of cold water and place in a steady oven to cook for two hours. Always put it into the oven as soon as it is prepared as the salt otherwise would draw the juice out of the meat. Directly it is cooked, dash about one tablespoonful of cold water into it. Place in a cold place for the fat to rise, remove with a sheet of white paper the fat which will have risen to the top and make hot as required.

_65. Mutton Broth_

This can apply to either the short ends of cutlet bones, the shank end of a leg of mutton, or the scrag end of the neck. Remove the fat and place, with an onion (not cut), into a saucepan a turnip cut into small pieces, a pinch of salt, one piece of loaf sugar, and if no fresh parsley is obtainable a pinch of mixed sweet herbs that have been rinsed in cold water. (If herbs are used they must be added as soon as the broth boils; if fresh parsley it should never be added till it is within ten minutes of being ready to serve.) More salt may be added to taste. Bring to a boil quickly and then put a quarter teacupful of washed pearl barley into it and boil gently for three and a half hours. Strain and serve.

It will be noticed that some of the soup will boil away and a little hot water will have to be added. This broth can be made with the remains of cold potatoes added instead of the barley, in which case it requires to be stirred through a cullender so as to avoid any pieces of potato remaining whole.

_66. Chicken Broth_

Take the remains of any cold chicken, giblets, feet, and put into an earthenware saucepan with one piece of loaf sugar, a pinch of salt, one small onion (whole), cover with cold water. Keep boiling gently for three hours adding from time to time a little water to keep the saucepan about half full. Strain through a cullender and put in the larder to get cool, after adding a little cold water to make the fat rise to the top.

_67. Lentil or Split-Pea Soup_

If for pea soup, take the bone of a ham, or the small bones of a piece of pickled pork and add about a quart of cold water and one onion. Have ready two large teacupfuls of split peas (that have soaked for two hours). Boil steadily for three or four hours, stirring from time to time to prevent burning. Strain through a cullender and serve with fried bread, very hot. Proceed in the same way for lentil soup, only in that case the bones of either beef or veal may be used instead of pork.

_68. White Bean Soup_

Have ready one pint of white beans boiled soft in water with a piece of common soda the size of a pea. Put them into a saucepan with remains of cold meat--beef, mutton, or veal--one uncut onion, one turnip, pepper and salt to taste, and if not objected to, a few cold potatoes. Boil gently about three hours, then pass the whole through a fine cullender to strain the skins from the beans. Replace in a saucepan and bring to a boil; then serve very hot. Have ready some slices of stale bread about half an inch thick cut into dice. Have a little beef (or veal) dripping, bring to a boil in an enamel frying pan and drop the bread in while it boils, fry till a light brown and quite crisp. Serve in a hot dish with a strainer under. This bread is good for either pea, lentil, haricot, or potato soup.

_69. Chicken Soup_

Take the remains of any cold roast or boiled fowls, salt and pepper to taste; a whole onion, half a rasher of very lean bacon, one piece of loaf sugar, one quart of water. Put all together into a saucepan and bring to a boil, keeping the meat or bones covered. Boil two hours. Take one and a half flat tablespoonfuls of flour, one ounce of fresh butter, and put the butter and flour into a smooth china or earthenware bowl (enamel bowl will do), work the two together with a tablespoon till a perfectly smooth paste is made, then pour the soup through a cullender on to the paste, stirring all the time; add a little milk and if possible a little fresh cream. Replace the soup in the saucepan, put it back on the stove and stir one way till it boils, when it is ready to serve.

_70. Game Soup_

Take a rabbit and wash it in a little water with a pinch of salt, then cut it up. Put it into a stone saucepan with one quart to three pints cold water, salt and pepper to taste, one piece of loaf sugar, one onion whole (or three or four spring onions), one carrot, about half a pound of gravy beef, and the remains of any cold game. Boil gently for three hours, strain, and place in the saucepan again, bring to a boil, thicken with flour and butter mixed as for chicken soup, bring to a boil while stirring. Strain and serve. If not dark enough add teaspoonful of bovril.

_71. Asparagus Soup_

Take the remains of cold veal, the bottom ends of asparagus, one onion, salt and pepper, one piece of loaf sugar, and two pints of cold water. Let it boil gently for three hours. Have ready, well mixed into a smooth paste, two tablespoonfuls of flour with one and a half ounces of fresh butter. Strain the soup, while still boiling, through a strainer on to the paste, stir gently till perfectly smooth, add half a teacupful of cream and a little milk. Care should be taken that the soup is not too thick or thin. Replace in the saucepan and stir gently over a clear fire till it boils. It is then ready to serve and should be perfectly smooth.

_72. Tomato Soup_

Take the remains of cold chicken, beef, or veal; add two pounds of fresh tomatoes cut into slices, one onion, pepper and salt, five pieces of sugar. Put all into a stone saucepan and boil gently two hours (in about a quart of water); have ready the same mixture of butter and flour as for asparagus soup, strain the tomato soup on to it, add the half teacupful of cream and a little milk, put back into the saucepan and stir till it boils. This should be about a quart of soup.

It will be noticed that most of these recipes are made with the remains of cold meat instead of buying especially to make the soup, and in this way most things can be used up without any waste.

_73. Clear Ox Tail Soup_

Soak a fresh ox tail in cold water for two hours. Then cut at each joint, remove all the fat, and lay in three pints of cold water in a saucepan with a pinch of salt, two pieces of loaf sugar, and a teaspoonful of mushroom catsup. Boil for three hours, then add one sliced carrot and a finely cut onion; boil for another half hour. The soup is then ready to be served with the meat in it.

_74. Thick Ox Tail Soup_

Proceed in the same manner as for the clear soup, adding a good teacupful of strong beef stock. Put in whole an onion and a carrot with a teaspoonful of Worcester sauce. Boil for three hours, then dash in a cupful of cold water and remove from the fire to stand in a cool place. Carefully remove all the fat and the vegetables. Bring the soup to a boil again and add a carrot cut into oblong pieces, boil for another half hour, thicken with a little carefully mixed flour and water, and serve with the meat in it.

_75. Julienne Soup_

Take one pound of lean gravy beef not cut up, put it into a saucepan with one piece of loaf sugar, an onion (whole), a little pepper and salt, and three pints of water. Boil for two hours. Dash a teacupful of cold water in to cause the fat to rise. Allow it to cool, skim the fat, and strain the soup into another saucepan. Put in one carrot, cut into slices and then into tiny strips, half a turnip, in strips, and a few green peas. These last may be from a bottle if it is impossible to obtain the fresh. Boil for half an hour and serve the soup with the vegetables in it. This soup will turn out perfectly clear if the directions are carefully followed.

_76. To Use Roast Beef Bone for Soup_

Remove all the fat; put the bone in a saucepan with about a quart of water, a piece of loaf sugar (to clear it), salt, pepper, one carrot cut into narrow strips, one onion sliced, and a little cut cabbage. Boil steadily for an hour and a half. Remove the bone and then serve the soup with the vegetables in it.

BEEF

_Roasting. Boiling_

_General Remarks_

Sirloin 7 lbs. 1½ to 2 hours. Fillet say 4 lbs. 1 hour. Round 4 to 5 lbs. 1¼ hours. Rolled Ribs 7 lbs. 2¼ to 2½ hours. Aitchbone 7 lbs. 2½ to 3 hours.

The first and the two last joints should be bought large, not under seven pounds, on account of the bone they contain.

In roasting or rather in baking, as is the general practice of small households (either in gas stove or coal), attention should be paid that the oven is not too fierce as it reduces the joint greatly and of course spoils the taste and appearance.

On the other hand, an oven not sufficiently hot spoils the meat by making it hard.

The proper degree of heat is best learned by experience but as a guide it may be said that a joint should begin to splutter and sizzle within fifteen minutes after the oven door is shut.

If the meat does not appear to be cooking satisfactorily at the end of fifteen minutes the baking tin should be stood on the stove over the fire (top off) after putting a little beef dripping into the tin.

While on the fire turn the joint over several times with the fork. At the end of ten to fifteen minutes the meat may be put back into the oven.

The dripping should be preserved as follows:--

After the meat is cooked, place the joint on the dish. Turn the fat out of the baking tin into a basin and dash into it at once a tablespoonful of cold water. This will separate the meat juice from the fat.

In this way you obtain perfectly clear fat and the meat juice under it will be found useful for colouring sauces or improving soups. This applies to all roast meat--beef, veal, and mutton--providing the joint is not stuffed.

As to obtaining gravy for the joint itself, proceed as follows:--

After pouring off the fat into the basin as directed, put half a teacupful of cold water into the baking tin and let it stand on top of the fire till it boils, which will happen almost at once. Turn over the joint in the dish.

Should the gravy appear not dark enough, the meat juice separated as above from the fat of other joints may be added.

_N.B._ Never flour the joint before putting it in the oven. The practice has nothing to recommend it and it would make it impossible to obtain dripping or preserve the very useful meat juice.

_77. Salt Beef and Carrots_

Soak over night in cold water a piece of salt beef, say about four pounds. Put it into a saucepan three parts full of boiling water. Time for cooking: one and a half hours. When the meat has been boiling for half an hour add four carrots cut in four lengthwise. Make about six suet dumplings in the same way as suet crust for pudding and put in the saucepan twenty minutes before the meat is ready. Care must be taken that no salt is added to anything. Serve with the dumplings and carrots round the dish.

_78. Stuffed Steak with Thick Sauce_

Take two pounds of rump steak, free it from sinews; make about four large cuts in it without cutting it right through, with a sharp knife. Lay the stuffing (sage and onion according to rec: 40) on the steak, cover with a piece of flare, or if not available a piece of buttered paper tied round with string, and bake for one hour. Lay the meat on a dish and remove the string and paper. Put a pinch of pepper and salt into the baking tin and about a teacupful of water. Place over the top of the stove until it boils, stir into it a tablespoonful and a half of carefully mixed flour, bring it to the boil again and carefully strain it through a gravy strainer over the meat. Serve with baked or boiled potatoes.

_79. Rump Steak with Kidney and Mushroom Sauce_

Melt over a clear fire an ounce of butter in an enamelled frying pan, then put in one and a half pounds of rump steak to fry briskly for five minutes, turning over once. Put the stove top on then and cook the steak for fifteen to twenty minutes more. Prepare half an ox kidney cut into dice, half a Spanish onion chopped very fine, and six or seven mushrooms (which have been previously placed in salted water for a short time to remove all grit). After dishing the steak put the kidney in the pan first, then the onion, then the mushrooms and fry very briskly but lightly for ten to fifteen minutes. Then add half a teaspoonful of Worcester sauce, six tablespoonfuls of water, and half a tablespoonful of flour mixed very smooth and thin with a little water. Bring to a boil and turn over the steak before serving.

_80. Stewed Steak_

Cut into pieces about a finger’s length one and a half pounds of rump steak. Have ready in an enamelled frying pan about an ounce of fresh butter made hot, or dripping. Lay the steak in this and fry briskly on a clear fire for ten minutes. Remove the meat and put it into an earthenware saucepan with a slice. Fry in the same butter or dripping one large Spanish onion. Cut two large or six small carrots into pieces; add this and the onion to the steak with a piece of loaf sugar, pepper and salt, and half a teaspoonful of Worcester sauce or mushroom catsup. Cover with cold water and stew gently for two hours. Thicken with a little carefully mixed flour and water. Best served in the earthenware saucepan wrapped in a napkin.

_81. Marinaded Beef_

This recipe will be useful when the question arises of keeping a joint over a Sunday. Get your butcher to cut you about four pounds of undercut of beef. Make the marinade as follows: For a pint of best malt vinegar one whole onion, one carrot (onion and carrot to be left whole), one-fourth pint of cold water, two bay leaves, six or seven peppercorns, salt and pepper to taste; put into an enamel saucepan and bring to a boil. Simmer gently for half an hour then turn into a deep basin to get cold. When quite cold place the beef in it and turn it over five or six times in the course of the two days it has to wait for cooking. When required for the table take some good dripping--either beef or mutton according to which joint you wish to cook--put it into a baking tin and when quite hot place the meat in it and cook in a nice hot (but not fierce) oven for three-quarters of an hour to one hour. Place the meat on a hot dish, turn out the fat which is no longer of any use. For the gravy put four or five tablespoonfuls of the marinade into the hot baking tin with a teaspoonful of bovril and bring to a boil. Add to the boiling gravy, if possible, two or three teaspoonfuls of cream (not preserved) thickened with a little flour and water mixed smoothly, and serve either poured over the meat or in a sauce boat.

_Note._ The above will do for loin of mutton.

_82. Steaks on Toast_

Take a nice thick steak, beat it lightly with the blade of a firm knife, cut into rounds say about the size of the foot of a large wineglass, allowing two little steaks per person. Sprinkle with a little salt. Have a deep frying pan with some good beef dripping ready melted. Cut some rounds of dry bread a little bigger than the meat. Fry these a crisp brown in the dripping. Drain them on a strainer. Put some more fresh dripping in the pan and fry the little steaks which should be cooked so as to allow the gravy to run red when cut. Place each on the round of toast and serve very hot with some thick brown gravy.

_83. Scraped Meat Steak_

Take about two pounds of lean steak cut very thick. Scrape it free from all fat or other particles with a sharp knife on to a big flat dish. Add pepper and salt to taste, about half a finely sliced and minced onion, a tablespoonful of Worcester sauce. Work all together with the blade of the knife pressing the meat, etc., on the dish. In this way the onion should entirely disappear. Form into little round cakes the size of a small round dinner biscuit only three times as thick. Roll in egg and breadcrumbs and fry lightly from three to seven minutes. Place on a hot dish and serve. A welcome addition is the whole yolk of an egg served on each, and it is quite palatable prepared in this way and served quite raw.

MUTTON

_Roasting._ _Boiling_

_General Remarks_

Leg 7 lbs. 1¾ hours.

(This can be cut in half across and used as two joints if desired, thus doing away with a lot of cold meat for succeeding days)

Shoulder 7 to 8 lbs. 1¾ to 2 hours. Loin 4 to 6 lbs. 1 to 1¾ hours.

For roasting mutton the oven must be brisk. No joint of mutton should be put on the top of the stove.

For dishing and gravy proceed as for beef.

Shank end of leg of mutton makes very good mutton broth.

_83. Boiled Mutton_