Part 2

The following is from a writer who describes a morning's ride from the White Sulphur to the Sweet Springs: "We left the White Sulphur long before the inhabitants of Paradise Row were stirring, and in a little while our dapples were winding their way through some of the finest scenery romance or poetry had ever pictured. Over a smooth beaten road, which seemed to have been carved through the mountains, like the pass of Mount Athos, we went on, with woodland steeps on each side of us, and afar for many miles in front, we had a refreshing perspective in the high green hills. Occasionally, in coming to a turn in the road, some new wonder would open before us. At one time we were bordered on each hand by a rocky palisade of some hundred feet in height. And again, where the road was more narrow, we passed under natural arbours, formed by the meeting of the tops of the bending trees from each side of the way, and where the laurel was twining its own laurels on the branches.

"A ride of ten miles brought us to Crow's, with a relish for breakfast, or anything else that might be offered us.

"This is the place where so many excursions are made from the Springs, for dinner parties and picnics. The tavern stands on the corner of the road at the foot of a mountain, and the sign-board swings out in front, after the manner of Nicholas Vedder of old, and many a Rip Van Winkle can be found in the whereabouts, who knows the legends of the neighbourhood." Leaving Crow's, he continues:--"We left the picturesque behind us, and for the next six miles of our journey, we passed through a more cultivated country, with many large fields of waving wheat tops and corn blade. Within a mile or two of the Sweet, we came to what is called the Red Spring, an old dilapidated building, gray with age, and all its windows shattered.

"Before 12 o'clock we entered the smiling valley of the Sweet Springs. Whoever comes to the mountains, should make a visit to the Sweet Springs, if but for one day. Much of the scenery in the neighbourhood is of the most beautiful and refreshing kind, and the whole place is redolent of life and animation, particularly at a time when thronging with company."

The accommodations at this place are sufficient for about 400 persons.

RED SPRINGS.

One mile nearer the White Sulphur are the Red Springs, or Sweet Chalybeate. This place has of late years been acquiring considerable notoriety.

About 200 persons can be comfortably accommodated here. "The waters are said to be good in neuralgia, and in rheumatic complaints. There are two springs here, the one near the hotel, essentially the same with the Sweet Springs, the other containing a larger quantity of iron, which being deposited about the spring in the form of red precipitate, has given the name of Red Spring. Professor Rogers' analysis of this water gives:--

"1st. Solid matter procured by evaporation from 100 cubic inches, weighed, after being greatly dried at 112°, 40.76.

"A portion of this is combined water.

"2d. Quantity of each solid ingredient estimated as perfectly free from water:--

In 100 cubic inches.

Sulphate of lime, 14.233 Sulphate of magnesia, 3.107 Sulphate of soda, 1.400 Carbonate of lime, 1.166 Chloride of sodium, 0.037 Chloride of magnesium, 0.680 Chloride of calcium, 0.010 Sesquioxide of iron, 0.320 Organic matter in small quantities. Iodine, a mere trace.

"The iron is no doubt dissolved in the water as a carbonate.

"3d. Volume of each of the gases contained in a free state, in 100 cubic inches of water:--

Carbonic acid, 46.10 cubic inches. Nitrogen, 2.57 " " Oxygen, .20 " " Sulphuretted hydrogen, a trace, too small to be mentioned.

"4th. Composition of 100 inches of the mixed gases rising in bubbles in the Spring:--

Nitrogen, 62.5 Carbonic acid, 37.5

"The temperature of the Red Spring is from 77° to 80° Fahrenheit."

SALT SULPHUR SPRINGS.

In the County of Monroe, twenty-six miles southwest from the White Sulphur, are the Salt Sulphur Springs; they are two miles from Union, the county seat. From a pamphlet written by Dr. Mütter of Philadelphia, we copy the following account of these Springs:

"The Salt Sulphur Springs, three in number, are situated in the county of Monroe, in 37-1/2° north latitude, 5° longitude west of Philadelphia, and at an elevation of about 1400 feet above tide water. All the springs are situated on 'Indian Creek,' a small limestone stream, which rises in a valley a few hundred yards above the Old or Sweet Spring, and after pursuing its 'devious way' for about 23 miles in a southwest direction, finally empties into New River, in Monroe County. It derives its name from the circumstance of the Indians, who, in former times were in the habit of entering the valley of Virginia from Kentucky and Ohio, almost invariably making it their '_Camping Stream_.' Their graves, along with other traces of their frequent resort to this particular spot, are occasionally met with at the present day.

"The Salt Sulphur is hemmed in on every side by mountains. To the south and east, in full view, and about 10 miles distant, is Peters Mountain; due north, and about 14 miles distant, is a low spur of the Alleghany; and west, it is bounded by Swope's Mountain, at or near the base of which, are the two principal springs.

"It appears from the statement of some of the 'oldest inhabitants,' that the Old or Sweet Spring was discovered in 1802 or 1803 by Alexander Hutchinson, Esq., who was engaged in boring for salt along Indian Creek. For several years it enjoyed much celebrity, and was annually the resort of a large company.

"The house occupied as the hotel, and several of the old cabins, are still standing. The opening of the Salt Sulphur Spring, the medical properties of which are so much more strongly marked, and the erection of commodious buildings near it, soon destroyed the fame of the Sweet, the water of which at the present time is used almost exclusively for the baths, although there are some individuals who still prefer it to that of either the Salt or New Spring. To gratify such, and at the same time to test the value of the water, the enterprising proprietors, in the summer of 1839, caused the spring to be deepened and thoroughly repaired. At present it is enclosed in a white marble reservoir, two feet square by two feet four inches in depth, over which is erected a neat wooden edifice, of an order 'sui generis.' In taste, smell, colour, and constituents, it closely resembles the Salt Spring, but is much more feeble as a remedial agent, which is to be attributed to its containing a smaller quantity of the active principles common to both.

"The second spring, or the Salt Sulphur proper, was discovered in 1805, by Erwin Benson, Esq. He was induced to believe that either sulphur or salt might be found in considerable quantities at the spot now occupied by the spring, from the fact of its being the favourite 'lick,' of immense herds of buffalo and deer. Under this impression he began boring, and penetrated but a short distance below the surface, when he struck the vein of sulphur water, now constituting the spring. Like the old, this spring is enclosed in a marble reservoir, two feet square, and about two feet ten inches deep, but from the boldness of its sources, it is probable, that this spring will be enlarged. It is protected from the influence of the weather; by a neat and appropriate edifice, furnished with seats. The water possesses all the sensible properties of the sulphur waters in general; its odour, for instance, is very like that of a 'tolerable egg,' and may, in certain states of the atmosphere, be perceived at some distance from the spring, and in taste it is cousin-german to a strong solution of Epsom salts and magnesia. In a short time, however, strange to say, these disagreeable properties are either not observed, or become on the other hand, attractive; indeed, there is hardly an instance of an individual's retaining his original repugnance to them longer than three or four days, and some there are, who become so excessively fond of the water, as to give it the preference over any other liquid. Like most of the sulphurous, this water is perfectly transparent, and deposits a whitish sediment composed of its various saline ingredients mingled with sulphur. It is also for the most part placid; occasionally, however, it is disturbed by a bubble of gas which steals slowly to the surface, where it either explodes with a timid and dimpling smack, or is eagerly caught up by some careworn and almost world-weary invalid, as a gem from the treasury of Hygeia!"

_Analysis of the Salt Sulphur Springs, by Professor Rogers_

"Temperature variable from 49° to 56°. Solid matter procured by evaporation from 100 cubic inches, weighed after being dried at 212°, 81.41 grains.

_Quantity of each solid ingredient in 100 cubic inches, estimated as perfectly free from water._

1. Sulphate of lime, 36.755 grains. 2. Sulphate of magnesia, 7.883 " 3. Sulphate of soda, 9.682 " 4. Carbonate of lime, 4.445 " 5. Carbonate of magnesia, 1.434 " 6. Chloride of magnesium, 0.116 " 7. Chloride of sodium, 0.683 " 8. Chloride of calcium, 0.025 " 9. Peroxide of iron derived from protosulphate, 0.042 " 10. An azotized organic matter blended with sulphur, about, .004 " 11. Earthy phosphates, a trace. 12. Iodine, a trace.

_Volume of each of the gases, contained in a free state, 100 cubic inches._

Sulphuretted Hydrogen, 1.10 to 1.50 cubic inches. Nitrogen, 2.05 " " Oxygen, 0.27 " " Carbonic acid, 5.75 " "

"I enclose you a list of the ingredients in the Salt Sulphur water, which applies to the New as well as the Old Spring; the former having rather a smaller amount of saline matter in general, though in some ingredients surpassing the other. It has been very minutely analyzed, and is the first of all the waters in which I was able to detect traces of iodine, which it contains in a larger amount than the Old Spring, and, indeed, most of the other waters in which I have been so fortunate as to discover this mineral.

_Diseases to which the Salt Sulphur is applicable._

"Chronic diseases of the brain, neuralgia, nervous diseases, chronic diseases of the chest, disease of the heart, chronic diseases of the abdominal viscera, hepatic affections, chronic splenitis, chronic gastric irritation, gastralgia, or nervous dyspepsia, pyrosis, or water brash, chronic irritation of the bowels, constipation, hemorrhoids, chronic diseases of the urinary organs, chronic diseases of the genitals, chronic rheumatism and gout, mercurial rheumatism, periostitis and inflammation of the bones, chronic diseases of the skin, &c."

RED SULPHUR SPRINGS.

The Red Sulphur Springs are situated in the County of Monroe, 43 miles southwest of the White Sulphur, and 17 miles west of the Salt Sulphur.

The improvements at this place are very handsome, and afford accommodation for three hundred and fifty persons. The following is from a pamphlet, written by Dr. Hunt of Washington City:

"The Red Sulphur Spring is situated in latitude 37° 37', about 20 miles southwest of Union, which is the seat of justice for the county. The approach to the village is beautifully romantic and picturesque. Wending his way around a high mountain, the weary traveller is for a moment charmed out of his fatigue by the sudden view of his resting-place, some hundreds of feet immediately beneath him. Continuing the circuitous descent, he at length reaches a ravine, which conducts him, after a few rugged steps, to the entrance of a verdant glen, surrounded on all sides by lofty mountains. The south end of this enchanting vale, which is the widest portion of it, is about 200 feet in width. Its course is nearly north for about 150 yards, when it begins gradually to contract, and changes its direction to the northwest and west, until it terminates in a narrow point. This beautiful secluded _Tempe_ is the chosen site of the village. The northwest portion is occupied by stables, carriage-houses, and shops of various sorts; the southern portion, just at the base of the east and west mountains, is that upon which stand the various edifices for the accommodation of visiters.

"These buildings are spacious and conveniently arranged, the servants are prompt and obedient, and the 'table d'hote' is abundantly supplied with every variety of viands that can tempt the appetite. The promenades, which are neatly enclosed by a white railing, are beautifully embellished, and shaded from the midday sun by indigenies of the forest,--the large, umbrageous sugar maple. The spring is situated at the southwest point of the valley, and the water is collected into two white marble fountains, over which is thrown a substantial cover.

"At the distance of a few hundred yards from the Red Sulphur Spring, up the south ravine, there is another spring, supposed to be a chalybeate, of a singular character.

"In a conversation with Mr. Harvey, a plain, honest, and sensible man, who was the former proprietor of the Red Sulphur Spring, I gathered the following facts, which I give in his own words. He stated, 'That he had lived at and about the place for upwards of forty-three years. The spring was first visited by the neighbours for itch, sore legs, and other inveterate diseases of the skin, which were always cured by drinking the water, and rubbing the parts affected with the muddy deposit. About thirty-six years ago, Dr. John Cabell, of Lynchburg, Va., was the first person who visited the spring for a cough and disease of the throat, attended with chills and fevers. He remained here several weeks, and returned home much better. The next season several other persons came, with cough and every appearance of consumption. Afterwards, the number of visiters afflicted with this disease increased every year. There are many persons now living, within my knowledge (said Mr. Harvey), and enjoying excellent health, who visited this spring many years ago, to all appearance in the last stage of consumption. The visiters who were most benefited by the water remained here five or six weeks, confined themselves to a diet of rye mush and milk, and were industrious in rising early, drinking the water, and taking exercise. Others, who indulged themselves in eating, sleeping late in the morning, and lounging about during the day, derived but little advantage from the use of the water; and generally returned home dissatisfied. The cold plunging or shock bath, was used in those days with decided advantage. I never knew a case injured by the use of the cold bath. Many cases of dropsy visited the spring, and I never knew an instance where they were not relieved by the use of the water. One of my neighbours was cured many years ago by the use of this water, and now enjoys excellent health. I have known many persons affected with complaints of the liver and bowels, completely relieved by the Red Sulphur water. From the first of May to the middle of November is the proper time for using the water to advantage, but I think it strongest, in its various virtues, during the months of September and October.'

"The following was presented to me by Dr. Saunders, the resident physician, as an analysis of the Red Sulphur water, made at the spring by Professor Rogers, the geologist of Virginia; but it certainly does not satisfactorily account for the wonderful effects of the water.

Temperature of the Spring, 54° Fahr.

_Gaseous contents in an imperial gallon._

Sulphuretted hydrogen, 4.54 cubic inches. Carbonic acid, 8.75 " " Nitrogen, 4.25 " "

"Solid contents of 32 cubic inches of water, grains 1.25, consisting of sulphate of soda, lime and magnesia, carbonate of lime, and muriate of soda. Besides these ingredients the water contains, in considerable quantity, a peculiar organic substance which, mingled with sulphur, is deposited on the sides of the spring, and seems to increase by a species of organic growth.

"The Red Sulphur water is decidedly sedative in its effects. It subdues chronic inflammation, tranquillizes irritation, and reduces the frequency of the pulse in the most astonishing manner.

"It is not uncommon for persons to arrive at the spring, who have not been able to sleep during the night, even with the aid of opium, and who, after drinking the water for a few days, find their nervous irritation so soothed and allayed, that no other anodyne is required to procure them full repose for the night.

"This water has been considered peculiarly adapted to the cure of pulmonary diseases, and it is true that it has a most beneficial influence in most cases of this disease; but its good effects equally extend to all cases of subacute inflammation, whether seated in the stomach, liver, spleen, intestines, kidneys, or bladder, and most particularly in the mucous membrane. In fact, nature never yet gave to man a remedy capable of more extensive application, nor better calculated to relieve a larger class of diseases.

"The late venerable Dr. R. H. Bradford, of Virginia, who practised medicine for many years at the Red Sulphur, in a communication on the subject of the water, remarks--'The effect of this water in reducing the frequency of the pulse, is one of the numerous, singular, and powerful properties belonging to it. It lessens arterial action to such a degree, that it seldom fails to remove fever, difficulty of breathing, and pain in the chest. When the patient is restricted to a proper regimen, this water may be taken with greater advantage in all pulmonary cases, than any other remedy I have ever employed for that purpose. It is also an important remedy in enlarged liver and spleen, and in diseases of the mucous membrane generally.'

"The water of the Red Sulphur seems to act by soothing irritation, lessening the frequency of the pulse, and by subduing the inflammation of the tissues in contact with the tubercles, and thereby rendering the tubercles harmless; and also by suspending that tendency of the system to generate or deposit tuberculous matter.

"The Red Sulphur water may be used with the most decided benefit in obstinate cases of bowel complaint, gleet, leucorrhoea, catarrh of the bladder, and uterine derangement."

ROUTE TO THE VIRGINIA SPRINGS.

The other route from Washington City to the Virginia Springs is by railroad to Harper's Ferry, 104 miles. Stopping at this place, the traveller has an opportunity of viewing the "Passage of the Potomac through the Blue Ridge," which, says Mr. Jefferson, "is one of the most stupendous scenes in nature. You stand on a very high point of land; on your right up comes the Shenandoah, having ranged along the foot of the mountain a hundred miles to seek a vent. On your left approaches the Potomac, in quest of a passage also; in the moment of their junction they rush together against the mountain, rend it asunder, and pass off to the sea. The first glance of this scene hurries our senses into the opinion that this earth has been created in time; that the mountains were formed first; that the rivers began to flow afterwards; that in this place particularly, they have been dammed up by the Blue Ridge Mountains, and have formed an ocean which filled the whole valley; that, continuing to rise, they have at length broken over at this spot, and have torn the mountain down from its summit to its base. The piles of rock on each hand, particularly on the Shenandoah, the evident marks of their disrupture and avulsion from their beds by the most powerful agents of nature, corroborate the impression. But the distant finishing which Nature has given to the picture is of a very different character; it is a true contrast to the foreground; it is as placid and delightful as that is wild and tremendous; for the mountain being cloven asunder, she presents to your eye, through the clefts, a small catch of smooth blue horizon, at an infinite distance in the plain country, inviting you, as it were, from the riot and tumult warring around, to pass through the breach and participate of the calm below. There the eye ultimately composes itself, and that way, too, the road happens actually to lead. You cross the Potomac above the junction, pass along its side through the base of the mountain for three miles, its terrible precipices hanging in fragments over you, and within about twenty miles reach Fredericktown, and the fine country round that. The scene is worth a voyage across the Atlantic, yet here, as in the neighbourhood of the Natural Bridge, are people who have passed their lives within half a dozen miles, and have never been to survey these monuments of a war between rivers and mountains, which must have shaken the earth itself to its centre.'

"From Harper's Ferry, we take the cars to Charlestown, 10 miles. Leaving the cars at this place, an opportunity is afforded of visiting

SHANNONDALE SPRINGS,

"Another of the celebrated watering-places of Virginia.

"They are in Jefferson County, five miles south from Charlestown, on an eminence of the Shenandoah; in a healthy and delightful region. The reputation of the water is so well established, that it is deemed scarcely necessary to mention its qualities. It is sent for and taken to New York, Charleston, and other distant places. The analysis of the late Dr. De Butts, in 1821, classed the principal fountain with the _saline chalybeates_,--a combination of the most valuable description in the whole range of mineral waters, and closely resembling those of the celebrated Bedford, in composition, operation, and efficacy. There is also a highly valuable sulphur spring in the vicinity. Apart from the merits of the waters, Shannondale is remarkable for the sublime and beautiful natural scenery, which is said to surpass Bath and Bristol in England, and that of Saratoga and Ballston in New York."

Returning to Charlestown, we again take the cars for Winchester, 22 miles. This is a very flourishing town, and the largest in the valley of Virginia. Here ends railroad travelling on this route. Twenty-two miles west from this place, in Hampshire County, are

CAPON SPRINGS.

The following account of these springs is copied from an advertisement of June, 1850.

"The high reputation of the waters of the 'Capon Spring' is not permanently established, but is yearly increasing, particularly in cases of dyspepsia, general debility, &c.

"Its convenience of access renders it an available point for invalids, or persons who are not disposed to undergo the fatigues of a long journey, over rough and dusty roads, in the heat of summer. Being near the route to the White Sulphur, in Greenbrier, it will be a delightful resting-place for persons visiting those celebrated springs. The well-attested, cool, dry mountain atmosphere of 'Capon;' the fine sulphur and chalybeate waters in its immediate vicinity; its neighbouring trout streams and river fishing; its shaded walks and drives, (now being constructed,) with the usual amusements of a mountain watering-place, impart to it some of its attractions and claims on the public, and fully establishes it as one of the most agreeable as well as accessible summer retreats in this country, either for the seekers of health or pleasure."

This watering-place not being on the main valley route, we return to Winchester. Six miles north of this place are

JORDAN'S WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS.