Part 4

EXCURSION TO BARNINGHAM AND WOLTERTON.

We may without fear or hesitation promise the visitor the greatest enjoyment from this excursion, whether the charms of a rich and highly cultivated country, the view of ruins “graceful in decay,” or the works of art be most accordant with his taste.

Having taken the Holt-road for three miles, we turn off to Gresham, and proceed to Barningham-town, or Barningham Wintes, a village consisting of about five hundred acres, belonging to John Thurston Mott, Esq. On entering the grounds, we are instantly struck with the beautiful landscape that surrounds us, and with the richness of the prospect; but our admiration is complete as we reach the picturesque ruins of the church which stands in the park. Anything more lovely we have seldom if ever beheld. The ruins, which are extremely fine, are covered with luxuriant ivy; but there is no appearance of decay here to offend the eye, or to pain the heart, nor even to raise a sigh of regret for the past. The chancel has been put into perfect repair, and most appropriately and liberally fitted up for divine service. All around is calm, holy, happy. True taste, true devotional feeling, pervades throughout. There the dead seem to “sleep sweetly” not in the sadness of death, but in the tranquillity of repose,—not in the gloom that oppresses the heart, but in the peace that speaks of hope. No straggling foot disturbs the green winding-sheet of the slumberers below, the light foot of the bird alone, which hath found there a place to build her nest, presses it, and the robin in privileged security chants from the spreading boughs that wave nigh a requiem over the departed,—not a weed is allowed to obtrude a leaf: the rank grass sighs not there, nor does the thistle shake there its downy head to the wind. The house of God, and “the house appointed for all living,” have been equally respected, and a striking proof afforded how much the beauty of holiness may be enhanced by the spirit of cheerfulness. We are utter strangers to Mr. Mott, we know only his name, (though in so saying, we may “argue ourselves unknown,”) that he is patron of the living of Barningham, and that he inhabits the venerable mansion, which is near the church; but what we have seen and do know commands our esteem, and we gratefully give it.

Two miles beyond Barningham, is Wolterton-hall, the seat of the Right Honourable the Earl of Orford, and Baron Walpole. {55} Respecting this handsome mansion we will quote the words of a former tourist:—

“Wolterton was purchased by Lord Walpole soon after his marriage. At that time, it consisted of a small mansion, with landed property of not more than five hundred pounds per annum, which he afterwards considerably increased by purchase. The house being burnt down during his embassy, he built the present seat in 1736, which is styled in Walpole’s Anecdotes, one of the best houses of the size in England. It was built after the designs of Ripley. The date is given in the following inscription placed over the door of the eastern entrance:

HORATIUS WALPOLE HAS ÆDES A. S. MDCCXXVII. INCHOAVIT. A. S. MDCCXLI. PERFECIT.

“Like most of Ripley’s houses, Wolterton is built with a basement story, and offices beneath, and consequently appears much less considerable in size and extent of accommodation than in fact it is. It is nearly a square pile, three sides of which have views on the park and pleasure-grounds, and to the fourth, eastward, is appended a large quadrangle, comprising the spacious kitchen offices, towards the north; a handsome domestic chapel to the south, (this has been removed, and a new one is now building to the east,) and communicating by an arched gatehouse to the east, with the stables and the kitchen gardens. The building is of brick, with chimnies, cornices, and dressings of the doors and windows in Portland stone, and is of so solid and durable a character, that the lapse of nearly a century has produced no apparent ill effect on its condition or appearance. The great hall on the north side was approached by a lofty flight of stone steps, which, as ill suited to the climate and habits of England, were removed by the late earl, and a commodious entrance, twenty feet square, made in the basement story beneath. The great staircase which fills the centre of the building, and is lighted from above, is in a rich and massive style of architecture, and extending down to the basement, serves as the approach from the present entrance to the principal apartments. Towards the south, in the centre of the house, is the library, pannelled in mahogany, thirty-two feet by twenty-four, containing a large collection of the ancient editions in various departments of literature, with much that is valuable of a more modern date. On the east side is the old dining-room, on the west the old drawing-room, each twenty-five feet by twenty, which have been, till lately, the customary living-rooms of the family.”

On the principal floor in the centre of the north front is the great hall, twenty-nine feet by twenty-four feet six inches, and twenty feet high. On the west side are portraits of Horatio, first Lord Walpole, of Wolterton; of his son Horatio, second Lord Walpole, of Wolterton, and fourth Lord Walpole, in whom the title of Earl of Orford was revived in 1806, and of Horatio, late and sixth earl of his family, his son and heir in parliamentary robes by _Lane_. Opposite, a large hunting subject (temporarily removed) by _Wootton_, with portraits of Sir Robert Walpole, with Sir Charles Turner, and General Churchill and of his favourite hunters and hounds. In the front of the door, Sir Robert Churchill in uniform, and Mr. Charles Churchill his son, who, by Lady Mary his wife, youngest daughter of Sir Robert Walpole, was maternal grandfather of Horatio, present and seventh Earl of Orford. Disposed in different parts of the hall, are some beautiful vases in antique marbles and alabasters, as also objects of sculpture, among which is a bust in bronze of Napoleon Buonaparte, from the collection of Monsieur Denon, and highly appreciated by him. A Cupid and Psyche, of natural size, in statuary, by Finilli, a work of great beauty and perfection; also a Venus, the size of life, by the same artist, in the manner of the Venus de Medicis.

On the left of the hall is the private family suit of the earl and countess, containing some interesting cabinet pictures. A very fine portrait in full length, of Oliver Cromwell, in armour, was formerly in this room, but is now removed to a bed-room. On the right, is the principal dining room, with a fine portrait over the fire-place, of Caroline, Queen of George II., in her robes by Amiconi,—presented by her majesty to Mr. Walpole on his completing Wolterton, with other presentation portraits of the family of George II., and in full length, in the pannel portraits of Charles I., in armour, and of George I., in his coronation robes, and George II., in half-armour. Portraits also of Rachel, Lady Walpole, grandmother of the present earl, daughter of William, third Duke of Devonshire, and of Harriet, daughter of General Churchill, wife of Sir Everard Fawkner, with her son, a child, (the late Mr. Fawkner, the father of the present Countess of Orford). On a marble table of large dimensions is a noble bust of Sir Robert Walpole, by Rysbraeck, with a star of the order of the garter, in his robes. A fine Rembrandt is also here; the subject, a Jew convert. An early picture by Opie, of children with a dog.

In advance of the hall, towards the southern suits of apartments is the great staircase, where, on a pedestal of Egyptian porphyry, is a colossal bust of Napoleon Buonaparte, the only existing copy of Canova’s original portrait model, of which was formed the ideal head of the statue in the Place Vendome.

The saloon front thirty-five feet six inches, by twenty-five feet six inches, and twenty feet high, finished in the rich and highly decorated style of that period. (1741.) Between the windows are two fine tables of oriental alabaster, of large dimensions, with many beautiful objects in sculpture, and in Dresden porcelain, to which have lately been added several casts of exquisite beauty, brought from Rome. Over the chimney-piece is a beautiful portrait of Louis XV., in his youth, in half-armour, with the royal mantle, presented by his majesty to Mr. Walpole, when ambassador at Paris. An original head of Pope by Richardson. Cardinal Fleury, by Rigaud, given by himself to Mr. Walpole. A view of Holland of large size. The celebrated landscape by Rubens called “The Rainbow,” late in the collection of Mr. Watson Taylor, generally considered as the chef d’œuvre of this great master, in the department of landscape. Andrea Sabbatina. Crucifixion. A Christ bearing his cross, the Virgin kneeling by him, in full size by Murillo. A picture of exquisite merit. A Spanish girl.

In the drawing-room, to the right of the saloon, are three beautiful Canalettis, one a view of St. Mark’s cathedral, another a general view of the city of Venice, the third a view in Venice. The Dutch Wedding, by an unknown master, of great perfection, and beauty of finish. A landscape with cattle, by Castiglioni. An exquisitely finished picture of flowers, with the head of our Saviour in the centre in chiaro-scuro, by J. David de Heim. A cabinet picture of Berghem, also a beautiful cast brought lately from Rome by Lord Orford.

In Lady Orford’s room, on the left of the saloon is a noble chimney-piece, in verd-antique, with sculpture and statuary, surrounded by a portrait of Louis XIV. in armour, by Jervas. This room is hung with fine Gobelin tapestry, as are also part of the drawing-room, and small dining-room. The chairs, sofas &c., are here covered with tapestry, the fables of Æsop forming the principal subjects.

The park is of great extent, comprising upwards of seven hundred acres of land. The fine beech and oaks which adorn it were chiefly planted by the first Lord Walpole. On the south side of the Hall is a bold terrace with a parapet, surmounted with urns, adjacent to which is a beautiful garden, sloping to the margin of an extensive lake, the banks of which are richly clothed with wood, the whole forming, with the distant view of Blickling, a piece of park-scenery which cannot be excelled.

For the sake of variety, the road through Erpingham, shortening the distance a mile, may be taken on returning.

The church, dedicated to St. Margaret, is a ruin; scarcely anything but the tower remaining. It stands on the north side of the Hall, and is almost concealed by the lofty hollies which surround it.

DRIVE TO BECKHAM, RETURNING EITHER THROUGH SUSTEAD AND METTON,

No person of taste will willingly leave Cromer without having visited the beautiful ruins of Beckham church, which are the most picturesque of any in the neighbourhood.

Having proceeded four miles on the Holt-road, we turn to the left, and at the distance of a mile the ruins present themselves, standing in a vale, where the waving of the corn, the song of the birds, or the sighing of the trees alone disturb their loneliness, and silence. The walls of the middle aisle and the chancel are remaining, as is also the south porch, which is luxuriantly bound with ivy. We ourselves saw them to great advantage. It was evening; a shower of rain had just fallen, and the heavy clouds yet cast a dark shade upon them. The large drops fell occasionally from the boughs of the fine ash which extends itself over them, shielding them from the roughness of the east blast in this their day of the north blast, seeming in fancy’s eye as if weeping for the decay of that which it protected; while the ivy, like a faithful friend, sheds its tears unseen in the bosom of one whom all had deserted. In a few moments, however, a brilliant rainbow threw its arch in the east, and the subdued rays of the setting sun burst forth, casting a bright gleam over them. There was beauty in the scene: there were reflections to be drawn from it, and an application to be made which could not be mistaken; and the ancient church of the valley, with all its accompaniments, spoke of a season of distress indeed, but of support and heavenly countenance, of cheerfulness and hope.

The drive from hence to Gresham is very pleasing, and a fine view of the surrounding country is obtained from an elevated part of the road which leads to that place, which having reached, two roads offer themselves, one direct to Cromer through Stustead, and the other, which is a mile further round, through Metton, and Felbrigg, making the whole extent of the drive about twelve miles; a consideration for which the beauty of the country will fully compensate.

NORTH WALSHAM.

As North Walsham and Holt are both within a morning’s drive from Cromer, a brief notice of each may not be unacceptable;—the principal places lying on the road, or near it, have already been mentioned.

North Walsham stands on an eminence with a declivity northward to the river Ant, and is distant fifteen miles from Norwich, and nine from Cromer, and is a pleasant and handsome, though irregularly built market-town, consisting chiefly of three streets. It has a neat cross, built by Bishop Thurlby, in the reign of Edward VI., and repaired in 1600 by Bishop Redman, whose arms, with those of the see, are impaled upon it. The river Ant, which passes within a mile north of the town, is navigable to Yarmouth.

North Walsham, suffered considerably in 1381, when a body of fifty thousand insurgents, who had taken up arms in opposition to the odious poll-tax, levied by Richard II., headed by John Litester, a dyer of Norwich, were put to the rout by Bishop Spencer. They afterwards retreated to the town, where they were totally overthrown by the troops of the prelate, after the destruction of the church and other buildings, into which they had thrown themselves for security. On the Norwich road, about a mile south of the town, is a cross, erected on the heath, in commemoration of this victory. In 1600 it was nearly destroyed by an accidental fire.

The church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, was rebuilt soon after its destruction in the rebellion of 1381, and is a noble structure. It is about one hundred and fifty-six feet long, and sixty-eight broad, having a nave, chancel, and side-aisles, with a fine south porch of flint and stone, adorned with boldly sculptured ornaments, amongst which are the arms of John of Gaunt, and the Abbot of St. Bennet, at the Holm. The aisles are separated from the body by a range of elegantly formed arches, supported by light clustered columns. A great part of the massive tower of this church, which was originally one hundred and forty-seven feet high, fell down on the 16th of May, 1724; another large portion fell on April 26th, 1835, when the remaining fragments, being in a very dangerous state, were removed about four years ago.

The great east window, in which were the arms of the see, with those of Bishop Freake, in painted glass, was unfortunately destroyed by a storm, in 1809. On the north side of the chancel is a fine tomb, with the effigy of Sir Wm. Paston, Knight, who, (as was not unfrequently done in those times,) in 1607, agreed with John Key, of London, to erect and fit up his tomb, with his effigy in armour, five feet and a half long, for which he was to be paid two hundred pounds. Sir William died the following year: instances, however, are recorded of persons having seen their own effigy &c., carried away by the sacrilegious soldiers of Cromwell. This monument was partially cleaned and repaired a few years ago, but the workman being limited to twenty pounds, he cleaned only the upper part of the figure, leaving the rest untouched.

The font, which is surrounded by an elegant octagonal railing, attracts much and deserved attention. The cover, which is profusely ornamented, is esteemed one of the richest of the kind in the kingdom.

The benefice is a vicarage, of which the Bishop of Norwich is the patron. It has a grammar-school, founded by Sir William Paston, in which several eminent men received their education, amongst whom were the great Lord Nelson; Watson, the author of “Anglia Sacra,” Sir Wm. Hoste, and Archbishop Tenison. The principal inn is the King’s Arms.

HOLT.

Holt is a remarkably clean and neat town, built on a rising ground, with a market on Saturdays: it is twenty-four miles from Norwich and ten from Cromer. The air of Holt is reckoned particularly salubrious, and its situation very agreeable. It has much increased of late in population, and several excellent houses have been built in or near it. In the year 1708 it suffered greatly from an accidental fire, which destroyed great part of it.

A fine spring issues out of a gravel hill on Sprout Common, on the south-west side of the town, which affords an ample supply to the place of pure soft water. The spring-head is securely walled round, and is visited by many, not only as a natural curiosity, but also for the purpose of enjoying the fine prospect which it commands over the picturesque valley of the Glaven, on the west side of the common, to which the spring gives name. The rectory-house is very pleasantly situated near this spot, commanding a delightful view of the Letheringsett and Bayfield woods.

The race-ground was broken up at the inclosure, in 1809. Assemblies are still held occasionally at the shire-hall.

The church, dedicated to St. Andrew, is an ancient structure, with a square tower, but has no spire. It contains monuments and inscriptions to the memory of the Holmes, Hobart, Butler, and Briggs families, with several others. The living is in the gift of St. John’s College, Cambridge.

The grammar-school was founded by Sir John Gresham, alderman of London, a native of this place. The Fishmongers’ Company, of London, are governors of the school.

The principal inn is the Feathers.

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We now take our leave—not that we have exhausted our subject, but because our limits forbid us to add more. Farewell, then, Cromer!—Farewell magnificent billows! ye lofty cliffs, ye swelling hills, ye verdant woods, and ye, pure and invigorating breezes!—dear are you all, for the impress of Him who made you is stamped upon you, and a grateful recollection will hallow your remembrance. Prosperity be upon you and on your inhabitants. Long may the invalid continue to recover health from your waters, the weary in spirit to regain vigour, the mourner to receive alleviation to the sorrow which passes show, the youthful and happy to appreciate and enjoy your beauties. May all success be yours—in all truth, and to its utmost extent—farewell!

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THE END.

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* * * * *

Joseph Rickerby, Printer, Sherbourn Lane.

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TABLE OF DISTANCES, WITH THE EXTENT OF THE EXCURSIONS.

EXCURSION TO FELBRIGG.—Page 24. Cromer to Felbrigg 2½ miles Extent of drive, returning by Aylmerton Church 6 miles Over the Beeston Hills 7 miles EXCURSION TO MUNDESLEY.—Page 30. Cromer to Overstrand 2 miles — Syderstrand 3 miles — Trimmingham 5 miles — — Beacon 6 miles — Mundesley 8 miles Extent of drive, returning by Southrepps 17 miles EXCURSION TO THORPE AND GUNTON HALL.—Page 35. Cromer to Thorpe 5 miles — Gunton Hall 6½ miles Extent of drive, returning by Roughton 14 miles EXCURSION TO SHERRINGHAM.—Page 38. Cromer to Runton 1 and 2 miles — Beeston 3 miles — Lower Sherringham 4 miles — Upper Sherringham 5 miles Extent of drive by the Upper Road 12 miles If extended to Weybourne 15 miles EXCURSION TO BLICKLING AND AYLSHAM.—Page 44. Cromer to Blickling 11 miles — Aylsham 11 miles The extent of the drive 23 miles EXCURSION TO BACTON, THROUGH MUNDESLEY.—Page 51. Cromer to Paston 9 miles. — Knapton 8 miles. — Trunch 7 miles. Extent of the drive 23 miles. EXCURSION TO BARNINGHAM AND WOLTERTON.—Page 53. Cromer to Barningham 8 miles. — Wolterton 10 miles. Extent of drive, returning by Erpingham 19 miles. EXCURSION TO BECKHAM.—Page 62. Cromer to Beckham 5 miles. Extent of drive, returning by Aylmerton Church 11 miles. By Sustead and Felbrigg 12 miles. NORTH WALSH AM.—Page 63. Cromer to North Walsham 9 miles. HOLT.—Page 66. Cromer to Holt 10 miles.

ERRATA. {69}

Page Line _For_ _Read_ 2 19 Scarboro’ Yarmouth. 4 4 three hundred and twenty two hundred and twenty. 5 11 two hundred and fifty three hundred. 6 17 Happisburgh Mundesley. 7 23 Simm’s Simons’s. 22 8 leave out last ten words. 22 26 Maria Cecilia. 23 21 Simms Simons. 34 17 nine seventeen. 44 16 North Walsham Aylsham. — 13 five ten — 14 six twelve. — 15 eight fifteen. 52 4 Thomas Wodehouse Sir Thomas Woodhouse. 62 2 Stisted or Sustead and. 63 14 Stisted Stustead. — 16 eleven twelve.

FOOTNOTES.

{13} No. LXVII. Phil. Mag. S. 3, vol. xvi. May, 1840.—2 A.

{14} At what time the church fell into decay is not known. It was in ruins, and disused about seventy-five years ago. It was then in contemplation to pull it down, and build a new one. Estimates were afterwards sent in for repairing the old church, covering the west porch, and erecting a new spire (there had been one before.) The cost was too much, and some of the proposed work was not done. Four out of the five bells were sold to help to pay the expense. The old lead from the roof was sold for upwards of three hundred pounds.

{26a} There is a foot-path over the fields, which considerably shortens the distance.

{26b} The keys of the church may be obtained on application to the clerk, who lives in the village. The way to the village is to the left hand of the gate leading to the park.