Part 9

Near to Belle Vue is the Dissenters’ Cemetery. {157}

Having passed the English Bridge we turn on the left, and following the course of “the sandy-bottom’d Severn,” soon arrive at the remains of

THE FRANCISCAN, OR GREY, FRIARS,

founded at an early period of the 13th century. Hawise Gadarn, (born 1291,) the heiress of the ancient Princes of Powis Gwenwynwyn, and wife of Sir John de Cherleton, was a great benefactress of this religious house, and contributed to the friars considerable aid in the erection of their church, which it is conjectured she adorned with the fine stained glass now in the east window of St. Mary’s church. This patronage was continued to them by her son Sir John de Cherleton. The corporation of the town also appear at all times to have regarded these friars with an eye of peculiar favour, and to have bestowed upon them various sums of money towards the repairs of their buildings. In the reign of Henry VIII. the greater part of the house was rebuilt by Dr. Francis Duff hill, at that time Warden. This and the other friaries of the town were on their dissolution granted by Henry VIII. in 1543, to Richard Andrewes, and Nicholas Temple. Portions of the friary converted into houses still exist. On the side next the river is a MULLIONED WINDOW, and on the other side a doorway, both of the obtusely pointed arch of the reign of Henry VIII. The walls of the garden may be traced far into the adjoining meadow.

[Picture: Window in Franciscan Friary]

The Lady Hawise, according to Leland, “lyith buried under a flate marble by Chorleton’s tumbe,” in the church, and several members of her ancient family received interment here. The path on the “gentle Severn’s sedgy bank” soon leads us to

THE QUARRY,

“Whose walks are ever pleasant; every scene Is rich in beauty, lively, or serene.”

[Picture: The Quarry]

This fine public promenade occupies a rich sloping meadow of about twenty acres, and derives its name from a disused stone quarry, nearly in the centre, which supplied a considerable part of the red sandstone visible in the older portions of the walls and churches of the town. Its site has long been designated “the Dingle,” and is planted with a bold clump of most magnificent horse-chesnut and lime trees. A noble avenue of lofty lime trees, gracefully unite their topmost boughs into a rich embowered arch, and with their lower branches feathering to the gentle windings of the beauteous river, forms the principal walk; to the middle and each end of which, three other shaded walks lead from various streets of the town. The still retirement and pleasing gloom of this delightful grove, from which the noise of the busy town, and even a prospect of its buildings, are almost entirely excluded,—the refreshing coolness of its shade,—the rich verdure which ever clothes its meadows,—the fine sweep of its umbrageous arch,—and the majestic flow of the river, which here

“with gentle murmur glides, And makes sweet music with th’ enamel’d stones; Giving a gentle kiss to every sedge He overtaketh in his pilgrimage.”

all combine to render it the favourite and constant resort of the inhabitant, and a principal attraction to the stranger. The ground was laid out and planted in 1791, during the mayoralty of Henry Jenks, Esq., by Mr. Wright, a celebrated and intelligent nursery-man, resident in the adjacent village of Bicton.

On the west side of the Quarry, in the Dingle, called the Dry Dingle, are the remains of a rude amphitheatre, with ascending seats cut in the bank, where the Friars of the adjacent Convent performed the ancient religious Mysteries, or Miracle-plays, so famous in the days of our ancestors. Here, also, during the reign of Elizabeth many plays were exhibited in which the scholars of the Free Schools sustained the principal characters.

Close adjoining to the Quarry are

THE AUSTIN FRIARS,

of which the only remnant is the lower part of a square red stone building, probably the refectory, with two pointed doorways, and the bases of a range of handsome windows. We find these friars here as early as the year 1235, when they obtained from Henry III. a grant of a spot of ground outside the walls, which had been used as a burial-place when the kingdom was under an interdict, in the reign of King John. Upon this small space they erected their chapel and buildings, which they were enabled to enlarge and extend in the year 1295, by the piety of Geoffrey Randolf, a burgess of the town, who granted them a contiguous plot of ground for that purpose. At subsequent periods various portions of the lands in the immediate neighbourhood of the convent were successively added to their precinct. The corporation also were not wanting in frequent and liberal contributions to these, as well as to the other friars of the town. Still they never appear to have been either rich or numerous, and at the Dissolution their buildings were in a most deplorable state of ruin, inhabited only by a dissolute Prior, and two Friars not of the foundation, who had greatly and disgracefully wasted the conventual property. In 1403, several persons of note, who fell at Battlefield, are said to have found interment in the cemetery of this convent.

[Picture: St. Chad’s Church]

At the top of the Quarry stands the CHURCH OF ST. CHAD, a structure, which, notwithstanding its many and glaring defects, must still be pronounced handsome and commodious. The body is circular, and consists of a rustic basement with square windows, on which reposes a superstructure, containing a series of large arched windows; between each of which are coupled Ionic pilasters, resting on the basement, and supporting a bold cornice, crowned with an open balustrade. Attached to the body is a smaller circle, similarly decorated; at the extremity of which is the steeple, which consists of three stories: a square rustic basement, from which rises an octagonal belfry, enriched with Ionic pilasters, and above, a small cupola, supported on a heavy cylinder, surrounded by eight slender Corinthian pillars. A heavy cross and vane crowns the summit. On each side of the tower is a plain square wing, which contains a vestry-room. Beneath a handsome portico of four Doric pillars supporting a pediment, is the chief entrance, which opens into a circular vestibule beneath the tower; beyond which is a kind of ante-church, comprising the staircases leading to the galleries and communicating with the body of the church. The interior is not a complete circle, a segment having been taken off for two smaller staircases, and for the shallow oblong recess forming the chancel. A bold arch, resting on four rich composite pillars, marks the division of the body and chancel. Above the altar, (which contrary to ancient usage, is placed on the north side,) in a broad Venetian window is a representation, in stained glass, of the “Descent from the Cross,” after Rubens, the Salutation, and the Presentation in the Temple, executed by Mr. David Evans of this town, whose skill and taste have also been exercised in four other windows of this church, of which the subjects are, the Raising of Lazarus, Christ receiving little children, the Healing of the Sick, and the Tribute Money, all presented by the late Rev. R. Scott, B.D. One of the other windows of the Church contains a memorial in stained glass to E. Muckleston, Esq. A deep and capacious gallery, decorated in front with a handsome balustrade, surrounds the whole church, except the chancel, and reposes on a double range of short pillars, with Ionic capitals. From these a corresponding tier of slender fluted shafts, resembling the Corinthian order, rises to the ceiling, which is adorned with a glory in the centre, and a rich cornice, consisting of angels with wings interlaced. Over the chief entrance is a large and fine organ built by Gray of London, in 1794, and enlarged and improved by Gray and Davidson, in 1848. It has 30 stops, and comprises 1325 pipes.

This edifice, though possessing too much of the theatrical air, is handsomely and conveniently furnished, and by the ingenuity of the circular arrangement, all the congregation can distinctly hear and most see the officiating clergyman during the whole of the services. It will accommodate, in the pews below, 1000 persons, and in the gallery 750, besides 400 free sittings provided for the poor.

[Picture: Font in St. Chad’s Church] THE FONT formerly belonged to the parish church of Malpas, Cheshire; and is that in which the late Bishop Heber was baptized.

The principal monuments are:—an oblong Grecian tablet, with an elegant Latin inscription to the Rev. Francis Leighton, his lady, and two grandchildren; a handsome pannelled marble tablet, supporting a fine bust of the deceased, by Chantrey, inscribed to Mr. John Simpson, the eminent architect and builder; and a similar tablet and bust, by Chantrey, to William Hazledine, Esq., the builder of the Menai Bridge; and in the Vestibule a marble mural monument to the Officers and Privates of the 53rd or Shropshire Regiment, who were killed on 10th February 1846, in the battles of Subraon, Aliwal, and the relief of Loodhiana on the Sutluj.

This church also contains a monument to the Rev. R. Scott, with the following inscription:—

SACRED TO THE MEMORY OF THE REV. RICHARD SCOTT, B.D. WHO DEPARTED THIS LIFE ON THE 6TH OCTOBER, 1848, IN THE 68TH YEAR OF HIS AGE. THIS TABLET IS ERECTED BY HIS NEPHEW WILLIAM SCOTT, AS A TOKEN OF REGARD AND AFFECTION TO HIS LATE RELATIVE.

In the vestry is a carved figure of ST. CHAD in his episcopal robes, preserved from the old church.

[Picture: Figure of St. Chad in St. Chad’s Church] This church is used on most public occasions. The plan was furnished by Mr. Geo. Stewart, and the cost of erection amounted to £17,752; the greater part of which sum still remains a heavy debt on the parish. In the tower is a peal of twelve melodious bells, cast by Messrs. Meares of London, purchased by subscription, and inscribed with appropriate mottos. The deep-toned tenor, of the weight of forty-one cwt. on which the clock strikes, may be heard at a distance of several miles.

Turning on the left, we proceed down St. John’s Hill, and pass

THE QUAKERS’ MEETING-HOUSE,

a plain brick structure, built in 1746, and enlarged in 1807,—and

ST. JOHN’S, OR THE WESLEYAN METHODISTS’ MEETING-HOUSE,

a spacious and commodious brick building, erected in 1804, and subsequently enlarged and decorated in a handsome style.

Besides these, there are meeting-houses for the Calvinistic Methodists, and Sandemanians, or Scotch Baptists, in Hill’s Lane;—for the Baptists and Independents, in Doglane and Castle Forgate; and for the Unitarians, in High Street.

At the bottom of St. John’s Hill is

THE THEATRE,

the fine and lofty stuccoed front of which has a bold and imposing effect, and constitutes the principal ornament of the street. The central part comprises a range of excellent shops; at each end of which is a comfortable dwelling-house, with entrance doors to the Theatre. The interior is handsomely decorated, and adapted for the comfortable accommodation of a numerous audience. The scenery, properties, and other ornaments, are entirely new, and in a superior style.

The remains of an embattled stone mansion, called Charlton Hall, the residence of the ancient family of Charlton, Lords of Powis, previously occupied the site of the Theatre.

Opposite to the Theatre, in Barker Street, is

THE BELL STONE,

a red stone structure, surrounding three sides of a small quadrangle, erected in 1582, by Edward Owen, alderman and draper of Shrewsbury, but lately modernized, and completely re-cast, and now occupied as the banking-house of a Branch of the National Provincial Bank of England. The mansion derives its name of the Bell or Bente Stone, from a large block of Chert or Hornstone, which originally lay in the street, at the north angle of the outer wall, and which is still preserved in the court, whither it was removed during the late alterations. The derivation of the name and its connexion with the Stone have hitherto baffled the ingenuity and researches of antiquaries.

Passing onwards through Shoplatch, we have on our right a mass of red stone buildings, communicating with the street by a passage,—which conjecture has assigned, either as the remains of the town house of the Abbots of Haughmond, (that monastery having possessed property in this immediate locality,) or as the residence of the ancient and extinct family of Shutt, the name of Shutt Place being supposed to be preserved in the name of the adjoining street, Shoplatch.

We now proceed down Mardol, about the centre of which, on the left-hand side, is Hill’s Lane, in which stands

ROWLEY’S MANSION, OR HILL’S MANSION,

said to have been the first brick building erected in Shrewsbury. From dates still visible on the leaden pipes, it appears to have been built in 1618, by William Rowley, an eminent brewer. This gentleman was a favourer of Puritanism, and an intimate friend of Richard Baxter the Nonconformist, and is stated to have been instrumental in strengthening the prejudices of the latter against the church. He amassed a large property by fortunate speculations in Barbadoes, and is related to have planted Rowley’s Islands in the Caribbees. His son, Roger Rowley, Esq. was of Gray’s Inn, and was the first person in this town who kept his carriage. His eldest daughter and co-heiress Priscilla married John Hill, Esq. of Shrewsbury, who made this mansion his residence, and gave to it, and the street in which it stands, their present names.

At the bottom of Mardol are extensive Quays and Warehouses, at which the numerous vessels which navigate the Severn load and unload their burdens. Here also is

THE CIRCUS,

a spacious building, used occasionally for equestrian performances, but more constantly as a depository for the immense quantities of butter and cheese which are brought to the town for sale at the monthly fairs.

THE WELSH BRIDGE,

[Picture: Welsh Bridge]

called also in old times St. George’s Bridge, from the hospital of Saint George, which once stood adjacent to it, crosses the Severn at this point. It is a convenient, substantial, and handsome structure, consisting of five elegant arches, the length being 266 feet, the breadth thirty, and the height thirty, and was erected in 1795, after a design by Messrs. Tilly and Carline of this town, at an expense of £8,000, raised by subscription.

The old bridge which formerly stood here was removed on the erection of the present one, and though highly inconvenient and ruinous, was a most interesting monument of antiquity, and consisted of seven arches, with massive gate towers at each extremity, in the finest style of castellated building. It is described in his usual quaint style by the accurate Leland, who visited Shrewsbury in 1539, “as the greatest, fayrest, and highest upon the stream, having 6 great arches of stone.” “This bridge,” he further says, “standeth on the west syde of the towne, and hath at the one end of it a great gate to enter by into the towne; and at the other end towardes Wales a mighty stronge towre to prohibit enemies to enter on the bridge.”

Having passed the Welsh Bridge we enter

“An auncient streate cal’d Franckwell many a day: To Ozestri, the people passe through this, And unto Wales, it is the reddie way.”

The suburb of Frankwell, was in 1234, during the wars of Henry III. and Llewellin Prince of Wales, reduced to ashes by the Welsh army.

Shrewsbury was the first place in England in which that dreadful epidemic, the Sweating Sickness, broke out in the year 1551; and there is a tradition that it made its first appearance in a passage in Frankwell, called the White Horse Shut. This disease again appeared in this suburb in the early part of June 1650, and continued its ravages throughout the town until the middle of the January following. It is said that the Butchers escaped the pestilence; and the fact of there being fewer entries of burials in the register of St. Alkmund’s, the parish in which they chiefly resided during that time, tends greatly to confirm the tradition.

About the middle of Frankwell on the right hand side, stands

ST. GEORGE’S CHURCH.

[Picture: St. George’s Church]

This neat structure was erected in 1829, on a site presented to the parish by Richard Drinkwater, Esq. and designed as a chapel of ease to St. Chad’s Church. It is constructed of free-stone, in the lancet style of architecture, and comprises a nave, transept, chancel, and western tower. The interior is fitted up with due regard to elegance and convenience, and will contain a congregation of 750 persons, for 460 of whom free kneelings are provided. By the pious liberality of the late Rev. Richard Scott, B.D. of this town, the chancel has been graced with a carved altar screen and chairs of an architectural Gothic design, the gallery with a small organ by Fleetwood, and the triple lancet windows filled with most brilliant and spirited figures of Isaiah, St. Matthew, and St. Mark, in stained glass, in the execution of which, that ingenious artist Mr. D. Evans has, if possible, surpassed his previous elegant productions. The windows of the transept likewise contain fine stained glass of a rich and elaborate mosaic pattern, by which a mellowed and devotional gloom is shed over this portion of the fabric, which contributes considerably to the imposing effect of the splendid east window.

The edifice was designed by Mr. Edward Haycock, and erected by Messrs. Joseph Birch and Sons of this town, at a cost of nearly £4000, raised by the voluntary subscriptions of the parishioners. The township of Frankwell has been assigned as a district parish to this church.

The adjoining eminence is crowned by

MILLINGTON’S HOSPITAL,

founded in 1734, by Mr. James Millington of Shrewsbury, draper, and endowed with the greater part of his ample fortune. This charitable institution consists of a school-master and mistress, who have each a house and salary, and instruct twenty poor boys and as many girls, natives of Frankwell. These children are completely clothed twice in every year, and at the age of fourteen are clothed and apprenticed with a small premium, and at the expiration of their first year’s apprenticeship rewarded with a gratuity, upon their producing a certificate of good conduct. Twelve poor men or women selected from the single housekeepers of Frankwell, or the nearest part of St. Chad’s parish, reside in the Hospital, to each of whom are allotted two comfortable rooms and a small garden, with an allowance of £6 per annum, a gown or coat on St. Thomas’s day, and a load of coals on All Saints’ day. Gowns or Coats and forty shillings each are also dispensed every year to ten poor single housekeepers resident in Frankwell, the eldest of which pensioners in time, succeeds to a vacancy in the hospital. The hospitallers and out-pensioners receive likewise two twopenny loaves weekly. A chaplain daily attends and reads prayers.

Two exhibitions of £40 a year each are founded for students of Magdalen College, Cambridge, to which, scholars originally on the hospital foundation have the preference, or in default of such, two born in Frankwell, educated at the Free Schools, and having been one year in the upper form in the head school are most eligible.

The hospital is a plain brick building. The central portion surmounted by a pediment and clock turret comprises the chapel and school-room, and the houses of the master and mistress, and in the wings on each side are the apartments of the hospitallers. A lodge has recently been erected and the ground in front enclosed from the street by an iron railing. {176}

We now continue our walk along the undulating eminence, which rises abruptly from the Severn opposite the Quarry, until we arrive at

KINGSLAND,

a large tract of ground, the common property of the Burgesses, studded with small enclosures and buildings called “Arbours,” to which the several incorporated trading companies of the town annually resort in procession on the second Monday after Trinity Sunday, accompanied by bands of music, flags, devices emblematical of their crafts, and preceded by “a king” on horseback, gaily dressed with “crownlets and gauds of rare device,” either representing the monarch who granted their charters, or some principal personage of their trades. The Mayor and Corporation, attended by many of the respectable inhabitants of the place, visit the several Companies, and partake of refreshments prepared in their respective arbours:—

“Whilst the merry bells ring round, And the jocund rebecks sound, To many a youth and many a maid Dancing in the chequered shade; And young and old come forth to play On this sunshine holiday, Till the live-long day-light fail.”

The pageant of “Shrewsbury Show” originated, no doubt, in the procession which took place on Corpus Christi day, one of the most splendid festivals of the Romish Church. The several Companies, preceded by their Masters and Wardens, attended the Bailiffs and Corporation, who with the Abbot and dignified Ecclesiastics of the Abbey, Friaries, and Churches of the town, clad in their splendid robes, and bearing the Holy Sacrament under a rich canopy, lighted with innumerable wax tapers, proceeded in solemn order to a stone cross called the Weeping Cross, without the town. Here having bewailed their sins, and offered up petitions for a joyous harvest, they returned in the same order to St. Chad’s church, and attended the celebration of High Mass. Three days of unbounded jollity and recreation followed this magnificent festival. On the Reformation of religion this ceremonious procession was of course discontinued, and the present single day of relaxation and amusement substituted in its stead by the authorities of the place.

While on the subject of our ancient customs, we must not omit the popular one of _Heaving_, formerly prevalent over most of the kingdom, but latterly confined to Shropshire. Heaving is performed on Easter-Monday, by men who perambulate the streets, and call at the houses with chairs gaily adorned with ribbons and flowers, in which they sportively hold down any young woman they meet, and heaving her up three times, turn her round and set her down again. The ceremony invariably concludes with a hearty kiss, to which is often added by the more opulent of the inhabitants a small present of money. On Easter-Tuesday the young women perform the same ceremony to the men. This custom is supposed to have originated in the usage of binding persons in chairs, anciently practised on Hock Tuesday, or Binding Tuesday, designed to represent the stratagems employed by the English women to aid their husbands in massacreing the Danes on St. Brice’s day, 1002. At the Reformation, this, with many other old customs, of which the origin was imperfectly remembered, was _spiritualized_, and intended to represent the Resurrection of our Lord. For more particulars of the custom of Heaving we would refer the reader to Brand’s Popular Antiquities, i. 155, and Hone’s Every Day Book; in which latter excellent work there is a spirited engraving of the ceremony.

On the north side of Kingsland is

THE HOUSE OF INDUSTRY.

which crowns the steep eminence above the river, from whence a prospect of the town and environs, more pleasing and comprehensive than can be obtained from any other station, bursts upon the view.