Part 1

Transcribed from the John Davies, Fourth Edition (1855) by David Price, email [email protected]

[Picture: Book cover]

A GUIDE, DESCRIPTIVE AND HISTORICAL, THROUGH THE TOWN OF SHREWSBURY,

INTERSPERSED WITH BRIEF NOTICES OF THE MORE

REMARKABLE OBJECTS IN THE ENVIRONS,

TO WHICH ARE APPENDED, LISTS OF THE EMINENT NATIVES OF THE TOWN, WITH REFERENCES TO BIOGRAPHICAL WORKS;

OF THE BIRDS SEEN IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD;

AND OF THE RARER SPECIES OF PLANTS INDIGENOUS TO THE VICINITY.

BY THE REV. W. A. LEIGHTON, B.A. F.B S.E. AUTHOR OF “A FLORA OF SHROPSHIRE,” &c.

* * * * *

“I held on way to auncient Shrewsebrie towne, And so from horse at lodging lighting downe, I walkt the streats, and markt what came to vewe.”

CHURCHYARD.

* * * * *

FOURTH EDITION. Illustrated with Sixty=one Engravings on Wood.

* * * * *

SHREWSBURY: PUBLISHED BY JOHN DAVIES, XV. HIGH STREET. SOLD BY ALL BOOKSELLERS.

* * * * *

“Without aiming to be great—we aspire only to be useful.”

_Dr. Butler’s Inaugural Address_, 1835.

LIST OF ENGRAVINGS.

PAGE. 1 Organ Screen in St. Mary’s Church 1 2 Norman Doorway, ditto 1 3 Town Hall 7 4 Market House 9 5 Statue of Richard Duke of York, on ditto 10 6 Angel under canopied niche, on ditto 10 7 Public Rooms 12 8 Ireland’s Mansion 14 9 “Bennette’s Halle” 15 10 Timber Houses on Pride Hill 16 11 Gateway of the Council House 19 12 Ditto of the Castle 22 13 The Castle 23 14 Laura’s Tower 24 15 Royal Free Grammar School 27 16 Principal School-Room, ditto 43 17 Bible Stand in the Chapel, ditto 44 18 The Library, ditto 45 19 Railway Station 48 20 Berwick Chapel 53 21 St. Michael’s Church 54 22 Battlefield Church 56 23 St. Mary’s Church 62 24 Monument to Rev. J. B. Blakeway, in ditto 72 25 Triple Lancet Window, ditto 74 26 Ancient Stone Font, ditto 76 27 Monument to Admiral Benbow, ditto 77 28 Altar-tomb, Simon de Leybourne, ditto 79 29 Monument to Master Wigram, ditto 79 30 Statue to Bishop Butler, ditto 81 31 Salop Infirmary 86 32 St. Alkmund’s Church 94 33 Guild House of the Holy Cross 99 34 St. Julian’s Church 100 35 Old St. Chad’s Church 107 36 Tower on the Town Walls 119 37 English Bridge 122 38 Abbey Church, or Church of the Holy Cross 130 39 Ditto, eastern end 133 40 Stone Railing, in ditto 134 41 Monument to Roger de Montgomery, ditto 136 42 Altar-tomb to Richard Onslow, Esq. ditto 137 43 Ditto to Alderman Jones and his Wife, ditto 138 44 Reader’s Pulpit, ditto 141 45 White Hall 145 46 Column in honour of Lord Hill 147 47 St. Giles’s Church 148 48 Interior of ditto 151 49 “Pest-Basin,” in St. Giles’s Churchyard 152 50 Altar-tomb at Longner 155 51 Roman Wall at Wroxeter 155 52 Trinity Church 156 53 Meole Bridge, &c. 157 54 Window in Franciscan Friary 158 55 The Quarry 159 56 St. Chad’s Church 163 57 Font in ditto 165 58 Figure of St. Chad in ditto 167 59 Welsh Bridge 171 60 St. George’s Church 173 61 Shelton Oak 176

* * * * *

_August_, 1855.

SHREWSBURY.

SHREWSBURY, the capital town of Shropshire, lies nearly in the centre of that fertile county, and occupies a commanding eminence which gradually rises from the bed of the river Severn, whose stream gracefully bends its course around three sides of the town, thus forming a peninsula, having its narrow isthmus towards the north-east. From whatever point the traveller approaches, his mind cannot fail of being forcibly impressed with the singular beauty of its situation and general aspect;—its dark and frowning castle, the elegant towers and gracefully tapering spires of its ecclesiastical structures; the undulating, irregular, yet picturesque disposition of its buildings, and above all, the beautiful windings of “Severn’s ambient wave;”—all combine to form a prospect surpassed by none and equalled but by few other towns of our island.

[Picture: Organ Screen in St. Mary’s Church]

From the gradual and progressive improvements of civilization, the present condition of the town presents few points of resemblance to the appearance indicated in its original Saxon name, Scrobbesbyrig, _the fenced eminence overgrown with shrubs_; a dense population of more than 20,000 inhabitants {2} now dwelling within its extent, busily engaged in the manufactures of linen, thread, iron, brawn, &c.—not forgetting those far-famed cakes

“Whose honour’d name th’ inventive city own, Rendering thro’ Britain’s isle Salopia’s praises known.”

[Picture: Norman Doorway, St. Mary’s Church]

Its earliest history, like that of most other ancient places, remains involved in obscurity; though it is now the generally received opinion, that the town was founded by the Britons, who, expelled from the adjacent station of Uriconium, or Wroxeter, which they continued to inhabit after the final departure of their Roman masters, sought here that refuge against their Saxon enemies which the then nature of the country was so well capable of affording them. During the progress of succeeding ages, our town and its inhabitants, have, of course, by turns flourished amid the calm prosperity of peace, and trembled at the terrors and desolations of overwhelming warfare. But the ample details of its important history are totally foreign to the purpose of the present manual; the highest aim of which, is to furnish to the intelligent and inquisitive traveller, a faithful, though humble guide, in conducting him, in his survey of the place, to those objects which, from general or local circumstances, are most deserving his attention and observation. {3}

To all classes, in their various and varied pursuits, our town will be found replete with matter of interest and instruction. The refined traveller will here meet with customs and manners peculiar, singular, and interesting—the artist, subjects for his pencil and exercise for his judgment, in imitating the tints and stains of time and nature’s never-ceasing powers—the historical antiquary will, with enthusiastic delight, trace its connexion with many of the grandest features of our national history—the architectural antiquary will find ample scope for many an hour’s delightful meditation on the massive grandeur of the “oulden time”—whilst to the scrutinising eye of the naturalist, the vicinity will, at every step, unfold objects of beauteous and wondrous design, which will uplift his enraptured mind, as he fondly gazes on them, in heartfelt gratitude, adoration, and praise, to the bounteous Giver of all good.

Commencing then at the centre, let us first survey that emporium of civic honour,

THE TOWN HALL.

The ancient Guild Hall was a large, low, timber structure, with a high clock-turret, erected in the reign of Henry VIII. and stood across the Market Square, nearly at right angles to the centre of the New Hall. The lower part consisted of shops, and a covered way for carriages communicating with the High Street. The upper story contained the rooms in which the business of the town was transacted, and the assizes held. The Exchequer, in which the municipal records were preserved, stood on the south-east side, and was a strong square stone tower of three stories, erected in 1490.

This incommodious building was in 1783 levelled with the ground, and a new hall erected in its place, after the design of the late Mr. Haycock of this town, at an expense of £11,000, and opened for public business on 17th March, 1786. In excavating the foundations, considerable deposits of what was apparently manure were discovered, indicating, in all probability, the existence of a farm-yard on the spot, at some very early period. The new structure exhibited a handsome stone front towards the Market Square, and consisted of a spacious vestibule, and two not very convenient courts for the assizes, on the ground floor. A large assembly room, grand jury room, and spacious offices for the business of the town and county, occupied the upper story, to which an elegant spiral staircase of stone led from the vestibule below.

Considerable sinkings having in 1832 been observed in different parts of the structure in consequence of the instability of the foundations, the building was surveyed by eminent and experienced architects, and pronounced unsafe and dangerous. The matter was immediately deliberated upon by the proper authorities, and after due investigation, it was determined to take down the whole edifice and erect a more commodious one on its site. For the double purpose of obtaining a more eligible foundation, and of adding a considerable additional space in front to the Market Square, some adjoining premises were purchased by subscription, and a substantial structure, well adapted for all the purposes of the business to be therein transacted, was, in 1837, completed by Messrs. Birch, of this town, after a design by Sir Richard Smirke. The cost of this building was about £13,000, and was raised by a county-rate.

The disposition of the interior embraces on the ground floor, a vestibule, affording a communication with rooms on either side for the mayor, counsel at the assizes, and witnesses, and beyond with two spacious courts and robing rooms for the judges. On the second floor are arranged the clerk of the indictments, grand jury and witnesses attendance rooms; and on the upper floor, the town clerk’s and clerk of the peace’s offices, and a great room, 45 feet by 32 feet, for general purposes; on this floor are also fire-proof chambers for the safe preservation of the municipal records. Under the crown court are cells, &c. for the prisoners, and a room for the deliberations of juries. Its exterior elevation is here represented:—

[Picture: Town Hall]

The following pictures, presented at various times to the Corporation, adorn the walls of the Town Hall: Charles I.; Charles II.; William III.; George I.; George II.; George III. and his Queen Charlotte; Admiral Benbow; Lord Hill, by Sir William Beechy; and Admiral Owen, painted by our townsman, R. Evans, Esq. R.A. by subscription. An excellent likeness of The Honourable Thomas Kenyon, late Chairman of Salop Quarter Sessions, and various other local portraits, are arranged around.

The Norman Earls of Shrewsbury, to whom the town belonged after the Conquest, ruled the burgesses with the iron sway of tyranny. From this thraldom they were somewhat relieved by Henry I., who conferred on them many valuable privileges, and diminished the rent of their town. Henry II. was the first king who granted them a written charter, but from his time to the reign of James II. almost every successive sovereign has confirmed or enlarged their privileges and customs. A guild merchant existed here, antecedent to the 11th John, and was recognized and established by charter of 11th Henry III. 1226–7, by which, every one carrying on business in the town was compelled to become a member of it. The town was anciently governed by two Bailiffs or Provosts, until the Corporation was remodelled by charter of 14th Charles I., under which it consisted of a Mayor, (annually elected,) Recorder, Steward, Town Clerk, 24 Aldermen, 48 Common Councilmen, 2 Chamberlains, and inferior officers. Under the Municipal Reform Act, Shrewsbury was divided into five wards, and is now governed by a Mayor, 10 Aldermen, and 30 Councilmen. There are also 12 magistrates appointed by the Crown to assist in the local government of the town.

THE MARKET SQUARE

presents an interesting and antique appearance, on account of the numerous old timber houses, which still remain on its sides. It consists of a large oblong space, the northern half of which affords room for an excellent Green or Vegetable Market, whilst the southern half is occupied

THE MARKET HOUSE,

[Picture: Market House]

which, according to an inscription over the northern arch, was erected in 1595, at the expense of the Corporation. It is one of the most spacious and magnificent structures of its kind in the kingdom; is of wrought freestone, and in the fantastic style of the 16th century. The principal front faces the west, and has in the centre a spacious portal; over which are sculptured, in high relief, the arms of Elizabeth, under a canopy adorned with roses, with the date 1596. Attached to the imposts of the great arch are pillars, each supporting a figure of a lion, with a blank shield on its breast. Above are two stories, with large square mullioned windows. On each side the portal is an open arcade of three spacious round arches, reposing on massive pillars; over which, a range of square mullioned windows lights the upper story, which is surmounted by a rich, though singular parapet, with grotesque pinnacles. [Picture: Statue of Richard of York] [Picture: Angel under canopied niche] Large open arches occupy the north and south ends, which are terminated above in sharp pointed gables. Above the northern arch, in a tabernacled embattled niche, is a statue of Richard, Duke of York, father of Edward IV. clothed in complete armour, and a surcoat emblazoned with his armorial bearings, removed from the tower on the Old Welsh Bridge, on its demolition in 1791. On his left are the town arms, _azure_, _three leopards’ heads_, _or_, sculptured in relief. The south end is decorated with a sculptured stone, representing an angel, with expanded wings, under a canopied niche, bearing in his hands a shield, charged with the arms of France and England, quarterly. This fragment of antiquity formerly stood in the southern tower of the Castle or North Gate of the town, and was removed hither in 1825, when that building was taken down to widen the street. The exterior of this fine old building has of late years undergone a needful reparation and careful restoration, and its northern front has recently received the useful appendage of an excellent clock, illuminated by gas, constructed by Joyce, of Whitchurch, in this County. The lower area is appropriated to the excellent Corn Market held here every Saturday.

General Markets are held on Wednesday and Saturday in every week, and Fairs for Cattle of all kinds, in the Smithfield, on alternate Tuesdays, and for Butter and Cheese, on the second Wednesday in each month.

The spacious apartments in the upper story of the Market Hall are occupied by the

MECHANICS’ INSTITUTION,

originally established in 1825, and supported by subscriptions and donations. The present number of the members is 200. The Library comprises 2000 volumes, and the Reading Room is supplied with Periodicals and Newspapers. There are Classes for the English and French languages, Arithmetic, Mathematics, Music, Writing, Modelling and Drawing; and during the winter months Lectures are delivered every fortnight. The subscription is Ten Shillings and upwards per annum for members, and Five Shillings for students.

On the south side of the Market Square are

THE PUBLIC ROOMS,

[Picture: Public Rooms]

erected in 1840, by Mr. Stant, after the design of Mr. Haycock. On the ground floor in front is the principal entrance to the

PUBLIC SUBSCRIPTION NEWS-ROOM,

which is immediately above, and also to the spacious

MUSIC HALL,

which occupies the remaining portion of the second floor. The third story is divided into various rooms, used as Billiard Rooms, &c. The back apartments on the ground floor are appropriated to the Street Act Offices, and dwelling for hall-keeper, &c.

The Public News-Room, supported by annual subscriptions, is supplied with the principal London and Provincial Newspapers, Journals, Magazines, &c. and is open from 8 a.m. till 10 p.m.

The Music Hall is 90 feet in length, and 42 feet wide, and 38 feet high, with an Orchestra at the south end, containing a very fine-toned and powerful Organ, built by Bishop of London, and presented to the Choral Society of the town, by the late Rev. Richard Scott, B.D.

Adjacent are the Stamp Office, the Salop Fire Office, the Police Station, and Post Office,—the two latter in the “Talbot Buildings,” recently well known as the old established “Talbot Inn,” formerly the warehouses of an eminent draper of the town, of the name of Oteley, of the family of Oteley, of Pitchford, County of Salop, and erected on the site of some of the buildings probably belonging to Vaughan’s Mansion, as is evident from the old stone foundations and singular vaults still existing in the basement.

Looking towards the north, and turning on the left, we enter the High Street, where on the left-hand side is a noble timber house, now divided into separate dwellings, once the town residence of the (now extinct) family of Ireland, of Albrighton. When entire, it must have presented a grand and imposing appearance. The front consists principally of four deep ranges of bow windows, four stories high, very lofty, and terminated above in pointed gables, on each of which, are escutcheons of the arms of the Ireland family. _Gules_, _six fleurs de lys_, _three_, _two_, _and one_, _argent_. The principal entrance is through a flat Gothic arch. The premises are now the property of the Corbets of Sundorne.

[Picture: Ireland’s Mansion]

Immediately fronting the High Street, behind the premises of Mr. Burrey, upholsterer, are the remains of some extensive building of red stone, probably ecclesiastical, and in the style of the 14th century. Considerable doubts have been entertained by our best antiquarians concerning these remnants of fallen grandeur, and no record is extant by which their use or name can be ascertained with any certainty. In an entry in the chartulary of Haughmond Abbey, in this county, of the early date of 2d Rich. II. 1378, these premises are mentioned, as having been known before that time, by the name of

“BENNETTE’S HALLE,”

but when or from what cause they acquired that appellation is unknown.

[Picture: “Bennette’s Halle”]

Turning to the right, we proceed up Pride Hill, on the right-hand side of which may be seen many curious old timber houses, the ancient mansions of our honest burghers.

Midway of Pride Hill, on the right, is the

DOUBLE BUTCHER ROW,

in which are also many interesting specimens of domestic architecture.

At the top of Pride Hill, on the right, is

THE BUTTER CROSS,

intended for the accommodation of persons bringing Butter, Eggs, and Poultry to the markets. The old cross, a heavy, inconvenient brick building, with a large reservoir on its top for supplying the upper parts of the town with water, stood nearly in the centre of the thoroughfare, whence it was removed in 1818, and another erected at the expense of the Corporation, on the present site; which also proving insufficient and inconvenient, was taken down, and the present structure, on an enlarged scale, built in 1844, by the Corporation, aided by the subscriptions of the town and neighbourhood.

[Picture: Timber Houses on Pride Hill]

In early times a Cross stood on this spot, of which frequent mention is made in old documents, by the name of the High Cross, and the adjoining street was called the High Pavement. Here proclamations were accustomed to be made, and criminals executed. This cross is remarkable as the place on which David, the last of the British Princes of Wales, underwent a cruel and ignominious death, by order of Edward I. and where many noblemen, taken prisoners at the battle of Shrewsbury, were executed.

On part of the site of the present Cross stood, previously, an ancient timber structure, probably part of the collegiate buildings of the adjacent church of St. Mary.

Nearly opposite the Butter Cross, on the left-hand side of the street, is an old mansion, now new-fronted, modernised, partially rebuilt, and divided, once, it is believed, the residence of the opulent and ancient, but now extinct, family of the Prides, who gave their name to the street “Pride Hill.” Some idea of its former splendour may have been collected from the ornamented plaster ceilings, which remained in several of the rooms, but which, by recent alterations, are probably now removed.

Proceeding onwards, we shortly reach, on the left,

THE RAVEN INN,

where the ingenious George Farquhar wrote his sprightly but licentious comedy of “The Recruiting Officer,” during his residence in our town in 1704, in that capacity. The scene of the play is laid in Shrewsbury, and though the plot may not have had any foundation in reality, it has been ascertained, on indubitable evidence, that the author took for the originals of his characters, many distinguished persons, living or well known at that time, in the town and neighbourhood. The window of the room, which tradition points out as that in which the drama was composed, still exists, and may be seen from the yard of the Inn.

At the end of Castle Street, on the right side, the remains of

ST. NICHOLAS’S CHAPEL

present themselves to the spectator; the architecture of which, with the exception of a pointed window at the west end of later date, is entirely of the early Norman era: and it is highly probable that the Chapel was erected by Roger de Montgomery, the first Norman Earl of Shrewsbury, for the use of such of his retainers as resided in the outer works of the Castle. The only portions of this edifice at present remaining, are the nave, a massive semicircular arch, formerly opening into the (now entirely destroyed) chancel, and two similar side arches. The building is the property of the Lysters of Rowton, and has been converted into two stables and a coach-house.

Immediately adjoining, on the right, is the venerable and highly-ornamented timber

GATEWAY OF THE COUNCIL HOUSE,

[Picture: Gateway of the Council House]