A guide book of art, architecture, and historic interests in Pennsylvania
Part 12
Northeast corner of School House Lane and Germantown Avenue, Mutual Fire Insurance Company, in the office is “Shag Rag,” an old hand engine, imported from England, 1764; site, De la Plaine house, Whitefield preached from balcony to about 500 people in the Square. Northwest corner of Germantown Avenue and School House Lane, Germantown Bank, chartered, 1813; site of Germantown Library in 1806; used by United States Bank in 1798, escorted from Philadelphia by body of Light Horse. 5516-18-20 Germantown Avenue, site, KING OF PRUSSIA TAVERN in 1757, the sign was painted by Gilbert Stuart; a stage coach, with awning, ran from King of Prussia to the “George Inn,” Second and Arch Streets, three times a week. Germantown Avenue north of Chelten Avenue, Vernon Park, residence of John Wister, member of Congress until 1883; now belongs to the city; mansion, built in 1803, is used as museum by the Site Relic Society; marble statue of John Wister, near the door, made in Italy, given by his son, Jones Wister, who posed for the figure. Free library building in Park. South side of Haines Street, east of Chew, still stands a farmhouse; residence of Christopher Ludwig in 1777; appointed “Baker General” to American Army; said to be the original of Harvey Birch in Cooper’s novel, “The Spy.”
Southeast corner Germantown Avenue and High Street, site of the Morris-Littell house, was residence of DR. CHRISTOPHER WITT, physician, botanist, musician, artist, astronomer, poet; originally one of the hermits of the Wissahickon; friend of John Bartram and Francis Daniel Pastorius; an oil portrait of Johannes Kelpius, painted by Dr. Witt in 1705, is said to be the first oil portrait painted in America, now at Pennsylvania Historical Society; he started the first botanical garden in America, twenty years earlier than Bartram’s. Now yard of high school building. South side of High Street, two squares east from Germantown Avenue, ST. MICHAEL’S PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL CHURCH; window of St. Michael after Guido Reni by William and Annie Lee Willet; grave of Dr. Christopher Witt is here; died in 1765, aged 90; site of old Warner burial ground; British and American soldiers were buried here.
METHODIST CHURCH, 6019 Germantown Avenue, site, Green Tree Tavern in 1748, kept by Francis Daniel Pastorius until 1754; General Anthony Wayne came this far, time of battle; Pastorius was the hero in Whittier’s “Pennsylvania Pilgrim.” Died in 1719; was buried, probably, in the Friends’ burial ground, Germantown Avenue above Coulter Street. Southwest corner of Walnut Lane and Germantown Avenue, “Wyck,” built in 1690; thought to be the oldest house now in Germantown; was used as hospital and operating room after battle; Lafayette was entertained here July, 1825. 6043 Germantown Avenue, southeast corner of Walnut Lane, was bought in 1775 by Dr. William Shippen as a summer home; center of fierce skirmish during battle; Pennsylvania manual training school was here under Dr. George Junkin, who was afterwards President of Washington and Lee University; his daughter was married to General Stonewall Jackson; in 1832, Dr. Junkin was President of Lafayette College, Easton; in 1851 this property was bought by Charlotte Cushman, actress.
Germantown Avenue above Herman Street, MENNONITE MEETING HOUSE, founded, 1708; present building erected, 1770; William Rittenhouse, first pastor; Brigadier General Agnew was mortally wounded near here. 6205 Germantown Avenue, site of house built in 1738 by Dirck Keyser, a silk merchant, who came from Amsterdam in 1688. 6239 Germantown Avenue, was known as Washington Tavern in 1793. 6306 Germantown Avenue, Johnson House, in thickest of fight; time of battle the British swarmed through, and cleared everything edible; family fled to the cellar. Germantown Avenue, north of Washington Lane, built, 1775, Concord School House; now Charter Oak Library. North of library is the Upper Burial Ground; has probably the oldest existing stone to a German in Pennsylvania, Cornelius Tyson, buried in 1716; graves of the Lippard family are here, ancestors of George Lippard, author; American soldiers’ memorial stone was erected by John Fanning Watson. Southeast corner of Germantown Avenue and Duval Street, site, “Pomona,” residence Colonel Thomas Forrest, artillery officer; later member of the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Congress. 6338 Germantown Avenue, site, the Ship House, built, 1760; had representation of a ship on south gable; rear, site of first public hall in Germantown.
Northeast corner of Germantown Avenue and Johnson Street, CHEW HOUSE, “Cliveden,” known as the “Germantown Battle Field,” built in 1760 by Benjamin Chew, Attorney General of the Province, member of Council, later Chief Justice; colonial, solid and heavy masonry; forming admirable fortification; was the scene of most important battle in Germantown, October 4, 1777; family were away; house partly furnished was left in charge of servants, the building was battered with bullets, holes still shown in the doors. Northwest corner of Germantown Avenue and Johnson Streets, UPSALA, one of the finest examples of colonial architecture; built in 1798 by John Johnson; is still occupied by his descendants; during the battle, Americans put their cannon in the yard to fire on the Chew House, opposite. Northeast corner of Germantown Avenue and Upsal Street, Billmyer house, built in 1727; Washington stood on the horse block, telescope in hand, to penetrate the smoke of battle, and discover force of the enemy at Chew House. Woodwork bears marks of bullets and attempts by soldiers to set it on fire; bought by Michael Billmyer in 1788, a celebrated German painter, whose business plant was here; tablet placed by Site and Relic Society.
6611 Germantown Avenue, parsonage of DUNKARD MEETING HOUSE, said to be over two hundred years old; near it, in the battle, General Nash was mortally wounded and Major Witherspoon, son of Rev. John Witherspoon, President of Princeton College, killed by the same cannon ball; they were buried in St. Michael’s Lutheran Churchyard. 6613 Germantown Avenue, mother church of the Brethren, or DUNKARDS, in America; who came here in 1719; Church was organized by Peter Becker, first pastor, in 1723, present building, erected, 1770, has tablet to Christopher Saur in the meeting house, he published the first American quarto edition of the Bible, 1743; in the graveyard is buried Alexander Mack, founder of the Dunkard sect in Germany, who came to America, 1729.
Southeast corner of Germantown Avenue and Phil-Ellena Street, ST. MICHAEL’S LUTHERAN CHURCH, founded 1737; in 1742, Rev. Henry Melchoir Muhlenberg had charge here, and of St. John’s in Philadelphia; pews were placed in 1750; during the battle, the organ was destroyed by British soldiers, who ran along the streets blowing the pipes; in the graveyard is buried Christopher Ludwig, and other patriots. 6749 Germantown Avenue, residence George Hesser; Elizabeth Drinker’s journal, written while staying here in 1793, during yellow fever epidemic in Philadelphia, gives interesting local details of life in Germantown.
7301 Germantown Avenue, opposite Allen’s Lane, LUTHERAN THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY, site, “Mount Airy,” summer residence of Chief Justice William Allen; Lafayette was entertained here; later a school was conducted by Benjamin C. Constant, “The American Classical and Military Institute.” General Meade and his brother, also General Beauregard, were educated here. Southeast corner of Germantown and Gowen Avenues, now part of Lutheran Theological Seminary; residence, in 1792, of Joseph Miller, whose daughter was married to James Gowen; their son, Franklin B. Gowen, was born and lived here many years, also his brother, James E. Gowen.
7406 Germantown Avenue, Mount Airy, PENNSYLVANIA INSTITUTION FOR DEAF, semi-deaf and blind-deaf; founded in 1820 by David G. Seixas, who gathered deaf street roamers in his home, taught, fed, and clothed them; a school was planned, Bishop White presiding; constitution adopted, and directors chosen; now a splendidly equipped trade teaching department for boys and girls; articulation, and lip reading taught; architecture, Norman.
INTERESTING PLACES WEST, NOT ON GERMANTOWN AVENUE
Queen Lane, two blocks west on Wissahickon Avenue, CARLTON, residence of Henry Hall; Washington’s headquarters, August, 1777, and two days in September, before and immediately after the Battle of Brandywine; when the British occupied Germantown, the Hessian detachment encamped from here to the Schuylkill River: General Kuyphansen’s headquarters: beyond the house, toward Queen Lane reservoir, is a granite monument erected by Sons of the Revolution in 1895 to commemorate the earlier encampment of the American army at this point. Corner of Rittenhouse Street and Lincoln Drive, birthplace of David Rittenhouse, Pennsylvania’s first and greatest astronomer, born April 8, 1732; house erected in 1707; his grandfather, William Rittenhouse, came to America in 1690; first paper maker in America; mill located near the house.
PLACES OF INTEREST EAST
East Logan Street, across Wissahickon Avenue, the picturesque WAKEFIELD MILLS and residence of Thomas and Sarah Fisher, née Logan, in 1795, granddaughter of James Logan, of Stenton; passing Wakefield, Old York Road is soon reached. JEWISH HOSPITAL on the right. Old York Road, on left, residence of Pierce Butler, bought in 1812; he was a member of the Constitutional Convention, and Senator from South Carolina; his son, Pierce Butler, Jr., married Fanny Kemble; present residence of Owen Wister, their grandson; the British outpost was stationed near here. Church Lane and Wingohocking Creek, site of Roberts Mill, built in 1683; first in the country; built by Richard Townsend, a passenger on the _Welcome_ with William Penn; back of mill, British had a small redoubt, guarding their encampment in Germantown. Northeast corner of Church Lane and Dunton Street, Spencer farmhouse; Thomas Godfrey, inventor of the quadrant, was born here; he died in 1749. Northwest corner of Haines Street and Limekiln Turnpike, PHILADELPHIA NATIONAL CEMETERY, thirteen acres, founded in 1885; soldiers of the War of the Rebellion are buried here. Farther along Limekiln Turnpike left wing of Washington’s army moved down this road, and a sharp encounter occurred with an outpost of British.
II
BUCKS COUNTY
Automobile ride of historic interest through Washington’s itinerary to New Hope. Return to Philadelphia via Bristol and Frankford.
One of the first three counties established by William Penn, 1682, named for Buckinghamshire (Bucks), England, Penn’s ancestral home. From HATBORO, Montgomery County, take the Old York Road to WARMINSTER, site where John Fitch, in 1785, made a model of the first successful steamboat, marked by monument; he ran a boat, with side wheels, by steam, on a pond in 1786, and on the Delaware River, during session of Federal Constitution at State House in Philadelphia, 1787; twenty years before Robert Fulton’s trial trip on the Hudson; before Fitch, first model of steamboat in United States was made by William Henry, of Lancaster, 1763. Approaching Hartsville, is site of Log College, origin of Princeton University, founded by Rev. William Tennent, 1740, near Christ’s Home, where everything is obtained through prayer. Neshaminy Church in a grove of very old oak trees, where William Tennent preached, is one of the oldest Presbyterian churches in Pennsylvania. HARTSVILLE, Cobe Scout’s shop, on Little Neshaminy; bulk of American army was at Neshaminy Camp, with General Stephen and Lord Sterling, when Lafayette joined it, and was handed his commission by General Washington in Moreland house, near the bridge; marked, inscription,
“Washington’s headquarters, August, 1777, Bucks County Historical Society.” First Pike west of Hartsville, wooden covered bridge over Little Neshaminy; inscription, “Bucks County Bridge, 1821, 20 mi. to P.” Continue York Road beyond Jamison’s Corner, seven arch stone bridge over Big Neshaminy at Bridge Valley, built, 1800; beyond bridge, first left road, over Crawford’s Hill, fine view of Neshaminy Valley.
Via Pebble Hill to DOYLESTOWN, county seat, settled, 1778, population 3857; court house, native gray stone; concrete fountain in front, Renaissance, with benches and lamp posts, designed by William R. Mercer, Jr., erected by borough, 1912, in commemoration of one hundredth anniversary of the county seat. Bucks County Historical Society, Library and Museum, built, 1915, of reinforced concrete, interior groined arch construction, designed, built, and presented to the Society by Dr. Henry C. Mercer; the court, surrounded by four galleries, contains collections illustrating history of the United States by means of utensils of American pioneers; unique of its kind in America; includes Indian relics, decorated stove plates, illustrated in a booklet “The Bible in Iron”; arms and relics of the Rebellion. Former library building, now the Auditorium, brick, built, 1904; colonial, designed from “Homewood,” Baltimore residence of Charles Carroll of Carrollton; was presented to the Society by William L. Elkins, Esq.
Fountain House, Main Street, opposite National Bank, oldest hostelry in continuous use in upper Bucks County, built, 1745, rebuilt, 1758, low, two story, with porches, was the old stagehouse to Easton; contains large collection of colonial furnishings and old prints. “Aldie,” residence of William R. Mercer, Jr., has notable pheasantry, rare fowls from eastern Asia; concrete garden ornaments made by Mr. Mercer; and antique sculpture from pre-Christian era; Font Hill, outside borough limits, residence, Dr. Henry C. Mercer; beamed and vaulted ceilings; roof terraces and many windows, entirely of reinforced concrete; walls and ceilings adorned with mosaics and tiles made by Dr. Mercer at the neighboring “Moravian Pottery and Tile Works.” Living room decoration, Bible pictures in tiles, adapted from Pennsylvania German stove plates; Columbus room, ceiling and pavement tiles, discovery and exploration of America; Bow room, ceiling tiles, Cortez’ maps of ancient Mexico, pavement, Aztec picture writings; Yellow room tiles, story of Bluebeard; also collection of classical and Renaissance mosaics, and ancient tiles, from historic buildings; may be seen by writing to the owner for admission.
Near Doylestown, National Farm School, four hundred acres, pioneer Jewish institution of its kind in America, founded, 1898. From Doylestown southwest, two miles, CASTLE VALLEY, Prospect or Spruce Hill, fine view, and grave, according to county tradition, of Lenape Chief, Tammany, whose name is used in Tammany Hall, New York; continuing the automobile route, Buckingham turnpike near Doylestown, small stone bridge, said to be 179 years old; facing masonry, more modern; date stone, 1814. BUCKINGHAM, Tavern, General Green’s headquarters, lunch room restored in ancient style; Friends Meeting House, with lost graves of Continental soldiers along roadside; Buckingham Mountain and Wolf Rocks, center of runaway slave settlement, old negro church on summit; left of Old York Road, ancient limestone quarries and kilns; HOLICONG or “Conkey Hole” deep funnel-shaped depression with water hole in neighboring field; residence of Colonel H. D. Paxson, contains unique collection of light and fire making apparatus, and of North American Indian objects including the Lenape Stone; LAHASKA, Dr. Staveley’s residence, “Bleak House.” AQUETONG, Logan’s or Ingham Spring, one of the largest limestone springs in East United States, residence of Samuel Ingham, General Jackson’s Secretary of State; north of York Road, SOLEBURY, Friends Meeting House.
CENTER BRIDGE, on the Delaware, house in which William G. Whittier, the poet, lived. Residence of Edward W. Redfield, landscape painter, many of his paintings are made from scenes in this vicinity. NEW HOPE, summer art colony, residence W. L. Lathrop, and other artists; Parry House, “Cintra,” stone, with walls of great thickness, said to have been built by William Maris in 1816, is so strikingly like the famous Octagon House in Washington, D. C, that both were probably from the same model, a wing of the old castle “Cintra” near Lisbon, Portugal; the heavy paneled cherry doors, with silver-plated knobs, on first floor, are said to have been originally part of Robert Morris’ house, “The Hills,” in Fairmount Park; Mr. Maris is credited with several buildings in New Hope, also, near New Hope, “Spring Dale,” with octagonal entrance hall, once the home of Dr. Charles Huffnagle, who was United States Consul to Calcutta and later United States Consul General to British India; who brought a notable collection of curios from the Orient which for many years were on exhibition at Spring Dale.
In December, 1776, four brigades under Generals Sterling, Mercer, Stephen, and De Fermoy, were posted from Yardley’s to Coryell’s Ferry, now New Hope, to guard fords above Trenton. Farmhouse of William Keith above Brownsburg, built, 1763; marked, inscription, “Washington’s headquarters previous to Battle of Trenton, December 14-25, 1776.” Old Eagle Tavern to right, fine view of river, hills, and valley southward; picturesque valley of Knowles Creek along Jericho Hill, site of American Army camp. North, line of William Penn’s first Bucks County purchase from the Indians, near site of Indian town Playwicky; below, “Lurgan,” near river, named in honor of James Logan’s birthplace in County Armagh, Ireland. On December 25, Washington and army crossed the river at McConkey’s Ferry, now TAYLORSVILLE, before midnight; nine hundred-foot bridge there now; twenty-four hundred troops were transported by 3.00 A.M. December 26; marched to Trenton, in two divisions, under Generals Greene and Sullivan, conquered the Hessians, and recrossed the river same evening, with nearly one thousand prisoners, arms, and several cannon.
At NEWTOWN, then county seat, Washington wrote of his victory to the President of Congress, December 27, 1776, in residence of John Harris; his headquarters until December 29. Old Brick Hotel, built, 1684, enlarged, 1764, called, “The Red Lion,” Hessian prisoners were brought here; in 1829, residence of Major Joseph O. V. S. Archambault, born at Fontainebleau, France, aide to Napoleon in Battle of Waterloo, member of his household at St. Helena; was visited here by Prince Murat and Joseph Bonaparte. Old Friends Meeting House; old Court House; and Bank, robbed by the Doans after the Revolution. North of Newtown, one mile, WRIGHTSTOWN, Lenape monument, on site of chestnut tree, land given by Miss Martha Chapman, inscription, “To the memory of the Lenni-Lenape Indians, ancient owners of the region, these stones are placed on this spot; the starting point of the ‘Indian Walk,’ September 19, 1735, Bucks County Historical Society, 1890.” Friends Meeting House; nearby, in fields, site of cave house of John Chapman, first settler: very beautiful views beyond Buckmansville toward Wrightstown, Solebury Mountain in plain view. On Richboro Pike, at RICHBORO and CHURCHVILLE are Dutch Reformed churches, about 200 years old; near is Southampton Baptist Church, built, 1764. From WRIGHTSTOWN, through YARDLEYVILLE to MORRISVILLE, population 3639; opposite Trenton; Island off lower part was first Pennsylvania land occupied by Europeans, 1624; first ferry, 1640. “Summer Seat,” built by Thomas Barkley, 1773, conveyed to Robert Morris, 1791, still standing; was Washington’s headquarters December 8 to 14, 1776; Lincoln Highway enters Pennsylvania here. FALLSINGTON, Friends Meeting House and quaint old buildings.
Return to Philadelphia on Bristol and Frankford Turnpike; “The King’s Highway,” laid out by Provincial Council, first road cut through Bucks County; early milestones still standing; pass Wheat Sheaf to Pennsbury, site of William Penn’s country house, frames and other work brought from England; he lived here one year. EDGELY, greenhouses where “Queen of Edgely Rose” originated; Landreth’s seed farms above BRISTOL, population, 10,273, named for Bristol, England, home of William Penn’s wife, Hannah Callowhill; the Keene house, built by Major Lenox, 1816, American minister to England, his niece, Sarah Lukens Keene, inherited and died here, bequeathing it to the Protestant Episcopal Church of Philadelphia, in trust, as home for aged gentlewomen; St. James’ Protestant Episcopal Church, built, 1712, has silver communion service presented by Queen Anne, church was used for stable by cavalry during the Revolution; interesting burial ground, tomb of Captain John Green of American Navy, said to have been first to carry the American flag in voyage around the world. Farmers’ Bank of Bucks County, Radcliffe Street, Grecian, Ionic, built by James Craig, nephew of Nicholas Biddle, for residence, bought for bank, 1830.
LANGHORNE, residence of Joseph Richardson, Esq., built, 1738, Edge Hill stone, with white oak joists and rafters, sawed by hand with pit saw, now occupied by his descendants; headquarters of Lafayette and Dr. Peter Yarnall. “Night after battle of Trenton, part of Washington’s army came to Attleboro,” now Langhorne: old Galloway House, Trevose, residence of Jeremiah Langhorne, part owner of Durham Furnace. One mile east, on Lincoln Highway, is stone mansion, one of the oldest in Pennsylvania, exterior is in original state, residence of the late A. Haller Gross, Esq., notable for its art, architecture, and landscape gardening; an addition, in French chateau style, built, 1911, has rooms and floors enriched by very beautiful tiles, designed and made by Dr. Henry C. Mercer; his work is further shown on the terraces and gardens; in a fountain of green enameled tiles; the concrete balustrade, and pavilion dragons and other devices are in the sunken Moorish garden; and in the Italian garden, with its pergola, sun dial and fountain. BYBERRY, birthplace Dr. Benjamin Rush in 1745, house still standing; and Friends Meeting House, with large library. EDDINGTON, St. Francis Roman Catholic Industrial School, built and endowed by the Drexel family; CORNWELLS, “Castle of State in Schuylkill”; ANDALUSIA, named by John Craig, Philadelphia merchant, in memory of successful ventures in Spain; here is Church of the Redeemer and King Free Library. Old Red Lion Inn, on the Pike, near three-arched stone bridge, over Poquessing Creek, Washington’s army encamped around it in 1781, on march to Yorktown; seven years earlier, Massachusetts delegates to the First Continental Congress stopped here.