CHAPTER XXVI.

THE HIEROGLYPHIC INSCRIPTIONS (by A. P. M.) 254-272

INDEX 273

PREFACE.

The Archæological results of my seven expeditions to Central America are in course of publication in the 'Biologia Centrali-Americana,' and eight parts containing about 200 plates have already been issued to the public; this is necessarily a costly work which is not likely to find its way into many private libraries. It has therefore frequently been suggested to me that I should publish a less ambitious and less expensive volume giving a general account of my travels as well as some description of the ruins visited; but, alas! I have to confess a hopeless inability to keep a regular journal, and my note-books are for the most part full of measurements and compass and sextant observations, and would furnish but a poor basis of a book of travels. When, in 1894, my wife accompanied me to Central America, a splendid opportunity offered of avoiding all responsibility in the matter. She should keep a diary and write the book, and I would add some archæological notes! It was to be a small book with a few illustrations, and was of course to be published within six months of our return home. However, when we did get back to England there were other matters which called for our attention, and the notes had perforce to be laid aside. During the following winter a fair start was made, and some experimental illustrations were prepared; but each of us discovered in the other a deeply-rooted objection to process-blocks and shiny paper, so we began to dabble in photogravure and typo-etching. Then the archæological notes began to expand, and as we had then no publisher to put a proper curb on our whims and fancies, the book continued to grow on a soil of hand-made paper and to blossom with coloured plans, chromolithographs, and photogravures. It may fairly be described as a growth, for the pages and illustrations were printed off as they were finished, a few at a time, and the text broken up. If the errors and repetitions are numerous they may in charity be ascribed to this unorthodox procedure, and such errors would have doubtless been altogether avoided if we could have submitted the proofs in their entirety to any of the numerous friends who have from time to time given us advice and assistance. From Sir Clements Markham and Dr. Keltie of the Royal Geographical Society wise counsel and kindly help to travellers seems to flow in a perennial stream; and in this connection I would gladly pay my tribute to the memory of one who was beloved by all travellers, the late Secretary of the Society, Henry Bates, who, after my return from my earlier journeys, was almost alone in offering encouragement, pointing out to me the importance of the work which seemed to have fallen to my lot to undertake. My friend, Mr. Francis Sarg, for many years Imperial German Consul at Guatemala City, to whose ready help and never-failing hospitality the success of my earlier journeys was largely due, has added to the long list of his thoughtful acts of kindness by making many valuable suggestions and by saving us from many errors, especially in our descriptions of the Indians and their customs. Of my obligation to Mr. F. DuCane Godman, the editor of the 'Biologia Centrali-Americana,' it is not easy for me to speak in measured terms; and as he would be the first to deprecate the only expressions by means of which adequate thanks could be tendered to him, I must here content myself with assuring him of my gratitude for allowing me to reproduce the reduced copies of certain maps, plans, photographs, and drawings which have already appeared, or are about to be issued, in the Archæological section of the 'Biologia.'

The greatest pleasure which the completion of this volume could have afforded to my wife and myself has, alas! been denied to us: we cannot place a copy of it in the hands of Osbert Salvin. What loss science has suffered by his death it is not for me to say; but how great the loss is to his friends I have good reason to know, for to his enduring patience, his never-failing sympathy, his sound advice, and affectionate friendship I owe more than I can here express. In the preparation of this volume, about the land he knew so well and with which his name must ever be associated, he took such a kindly and helpful interest that his connection with it will always remain amongst the happiest of our memories.

I cannot close this preface without offering my sincere thanks to Miss Annie Hunter and her sisters, and to all those who have been concerned in the preparation of the drawings and the reproduction of the illustrations, for the interest they have taken in the work entrusted to them and the carefulness with which it has been carried out. In conclusion, I am glad to express my acknowledgments for the good services rendered to me by the companions in my travels, the men of the Lopez family, and especially my friend Gorgonio, whose gentle manners and sweet disposition helped to smooth over many a bad half-hour during my earlier expeditions, and whose ceaseless vigilance over the welfare of my wife during our last journey did so much to lessen for her the discomforts of camp-life.

A. P. M.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Page

ACAPULCO: A SNAPSHOT OVER THE BULWARKS. (Photograph by A. P. M.) 6

LANDING AT SAN JOSÉ. (Drawn by Ada Hunter from a photograph.) 8

CITY OF GUATEMALA, from the Cerro del Carmen. (Drawn by BLANCHE HUNTER from a photograph.) 9

CHURCH ON THE CERRO DEL CARMEN (2 views). (Drawn by BLANCHE HUNTER from photographs.) 13

STONE IDOLS ON THE ROAD TO MIXCO. (Drawn by BLANCHE HUNTER from a photograph by ARTHUR CHAPMAN.) 15

A STREET IN MIXCO. (Drawn by BLANCHE HUNTER from a photograph by A. P. M.) 19

A MIXCO WASHERWOMAN. (Drawn by BLANCHE HUNTER from a photograph.) 20

INDIAN "CARGADORES." (Drawn by ADA HUNTER from photographs by A. P. M.) 21

ANTIGUA AND THE VOLCAN DE AGUA. (Photograph by A. P. M.) _to face_ 24

ANTIGUA. " " _to face_ 26

AN ALCALDE. (Drawn by BLANCHE HUNTER from a photograph.) 28

THE PLAZA, ANTIGUA. (Photograph by A. P. M.) _to face_ 28

AGUA FROM SANTA MARIA. " " 30

ANTIGUA. A RUINED CHURCH. (Drawn by BLANCHE HUNTER from a photograph.) _to face_ 30

INDIANS FROM JOCOTENANGO, ON THE MESETA, VOLCAN DE FUEGO. (Photograph by A. P. M.) 37

THE FIRE PEAK AND MESETA. {(Photographs by OSBERT} 39 THE PEAK OF ACATENANGO, FROM THE MESETA. {SALVIN, F.R.S.) }

INDIANS OF THE ALTOS. (Drawn by BLANCHE HUNTER from a photograph.) 42

SPECIMENS OF NATIVE TEXTILES AND EMBROIDERY. (2 plates.) (Drawn from the original materials by ADA and BLANCHE HUNTER.) _to face_ 42

INDIANS OF THE ALTOS. (Drawn by ADA HUNTER from a photograph.) 43

A BARRANCA. } (Photographs by A. P. M.) 44 INDIAN CARRIERS.}

A HIGH ROAD. (Photograph by A. P. M.) 45

LAKE AND VOLCANO OF ATITLAN. " " _to face_ 46

NOONDAY REST. " " _to face_ 48

SUNSET, THE LAKE OF ATITLAN. " " _to face_ 48

ESQUIPULAS. " " 50

VOLCANO OF ATITLAN. " " _to face_ 51

SAN ANTONIO. " " 52

" " " " 53

BOYS IN SCHOOL. " " 55

AN INDIAN LOOM. (Drawn from the original Loom by BLANCHE HUNTER.) 56

A WOMAN WEAVING. (From the 'Codex Mendoza.') 56

INDIANS AT SAN ANTONIO. (Photograph by A. P. M.) _to face_ 56

WATER CARRIERS, SAN ANTONIO. (Drawn by BLANCHE HUNTER from a photograph by A. P. M.) _to face_ 56

PANAJACHÉL AND THE LAKE OF ATITLAN. (Photograph by A. P. M.) _to face_ 58

PILGRIMS AT EVENING PRAYER. " 59

ON THE STEPS OF THE CABILDO, ATITLAN. " 60

THE PLAZA, ATITLAN. " _to face_ 62

"EL SACRIFICATORIO," UTATLAN. (After F. CATHERWOOD.) 68

QUEZALTENANGO. (Photograph by A. P. M.) 79

LOOKING BACK ACROSS THE RIO NEGRO. " " 82

ZOPILOTES. " " 90

COBAN. " " 91

THE CHURCH, COBAN. " " 93

A COBANERA. (Drawn by ADA HUNTER from a photograph.) 94

THE PLAZA, COBAN. (Photograph by A. P. M.) _to face_ 96

THE CALVARIO, COBAN. (Photograph by A. P. M.) 100

A TEMPLE NEAR RABINAL. (Photograph by OSBERT SALVIN, F.R.S.) 101

SQUARE ALTAR, COPAN VILLAGE. (Drawn by ANNIE HUNTER from a plaster-cast.) 118

COPAN. STELA B. (Photograph by A. P. M.) _to face_ 120

" IN THE GREAT PLAZA. " " _to face_ 126

" THE SCULPTURED DOORWAY, restored. (Drawn by E. LAMBERT from photographs by A. P. M.) 130

" THE EAST SIDE OF THE SCULPTURED DOORWAY. (Photograph by A. P. M.) _to face_ 130

" A FRAGMENT FROM THE HIEROGLYPHIC STAIRWAY. (Drawn by ANNIE HUNTER from a plaster-cast.) 133

" A SCULPTURED SLAB FROM THE WESTERN COURT. (Drawn by ANNIE HUNTER from a plaster-cast.) 142

QUIRIGUA. STELA F. (Photograph by A. P. M.) _to face_ 146

" STELA D, NORTH FACE. " " _to face_ 148

" STELA D, EAST SIDE. " " _to face_ 148

" THE GREAT TURTLE. " " _to face_ 150

CARIBS BUYING FISH AT LIVINGSTON. " " 156

A HAMMOCK BRIDGE. " " 160

CAJABON. " " _to face_ 162

SKETCH OF A TEMPLE ON HILL-TOP NEAR YAXCHÉ. 176

SCULPTURED MONOLITH AT IXKUN. (Photograph by A. P. M.) _to face_ 176

EARTHEN POT FROM YAXCHÉ. (Drawn by ANNIE HUNTER.) 177

ON THE PINE RIDGE. (Photograph by A. P. M.) 183

ON THE BELIZE RIVER. " " 187

CARIB WOMEN. (Photograph by H. PRICE.) 192

CHICHÉN ITZÁ. THE CASA DE MONJAS. (Drawn by ANNIE HUNTER from a photograph by A. P. M.) 202

" " MY ROOM, 1889. (Photograph by H. N. SWEET.) _to face_ 202

" " "LA IGLESIA." " " _to face_ 202

" " FOOT OF THE NORTH STAIRWAY OF THE CASTILLO. (Drawn by ANNIE HUNTER from a photograph by H. N. SWEET.) 204

" " THE CASTILLO. (Photograph by H. N. SWEET.) _to face_ 204

" " THE BALL COURT TEMPLE, restored. (Drawn by ANNIE HUNTER from photographs and plans by A. P. M.) _to face_ 206

" " MURAL PAINTING OF A BATTLE, from the Great Ball Court Temple. (Traced by A. P. M. from the original and reduced.) _to face_ 206

" " MURAL PAINTING OF A HUMAN SACRIFICE, from the Great Ball Court Temple. (Traced by A. P. M. from the original and reduced.) 207

" " FIGURES ON THE WALL OF THE SCULPTURED CHAMBER. (Drawn by ANNIE HUNTER from a plaster-cast.) 208

PALENQUE. GORGONIO LOPEZ, 1891. (Photograph by A. P. M.) _to face_ 224

" THE EASTERN COURT. " " _to face_ 226

" THE WESTERN COURT AND TOWER. " " _to face_ 226

" CARVED PANEL from the Temple of the Foliated Cross. (Drawn by ANNIE HUNTER from a plaster-cast.) _to face_ 228

" THE TEMPLE OF THE SUN AND THE PALACE. (From a photograph by A. P. M.) _to face_ 228

THE SERPENT-BIRD, from Tikál. 229

SACLUC (LA LIBERTAD). (Photograph by A. P. M.) 230

TIKÁL. VIEW FROM THE (DOORWAY OF THE) GREAT TEMPLE E. (Photograph by A. P. M.) _to face_ 232

" TEMPLE marked A in the plan. (Photograph by A. P. M.) _to face_ 234

" CAMP IN THE FOREST. " " _to face_ 234

LACANDONES. " " _to face_ 236

THE RIO USUMACINTA AT MENCHÉ. " " _to face_ 236

MENCHÉ. POTTERY INCENSE BURNERS. (Drawn by ANNIE HUNTER.) 238

" TEMPLE A. (Photograph by A. P. M.) _to face_ 238

" FRAGMENT OF A STONE LINTEL. _to face_ 240

FLORES. (Photograph by A. P. M.) 241

THE ISLAND OF FLORES. " " 243

THE SERPENT-BIRDS, PALENQUE. 253

MONTH AND DAY SIGNS. (AFTER LANDA.) 255

MAYA NUMERALS. 256

SIGNS FOR PERIODS OF TIME. 259

GREAT CYCLE SIGNS AND DAY SIGNS. 260

MONTH SIGNS. 261

HIEROGLYPHIC INSCRIPTIONS. _to face_ 262

MAYA INSCRIPTIONS FROM PIEDRAS NEGRAS. (TEOBERT MALER.) _to face_ 264

ADIOS! _to face_ 272

LIST OF MAPS AND PLANS.

Page

PLAN OF THE RUINED TOWN BETWEEN GUATEMALA AND MIXCO. (A. P. M.) 18

UTATLAN, the ancient capital of the Quichés. " _to face_ 62

RUINS NEAR RABINAL. (2 plates.) " _to face_ 102

" " " Ground-plan of Tlachtli Court. " 104

COPAN. Plan of the principal ruined structures. " _to face_ 118

" Sketch-map of the site of the Ruins. " 127

QUIRIGUA. Plan of the Ruins. (C. BLOCKLEY and H. W. PRICE.) _to face_ 148

IXKUN. Plan of the Ruins. (A. P. M.) _to face_ 174

YAXCHÉ. Ground-plan of a Temple. " 177

" Arrangement of Mounds on a hill-top. " 178

CHICHÉN ITZÁ. Plan of the Ruins. " _to face_ 200

" " Plan of the Great Ball Court. " _to face_ 204

PALENQUE. Plan of the principal group of Ruins. {(Surveyed by } 218 {H. W. PRICE.)}

" Plan of the Palace. " _to face_ 226

" Plan and Section of the Temple of the Sun. " 228

TIKÁL. Plan of the Ruins. (A. P. M.) _to face_ 232

" Plan of the Foundation-mound and Temple A. " 233

" Plan and Section of Temple B. " 233

" Plan of Temple D. " 234

MENCHÉ TINAMIT. Plan of the Ruins. " _to face_ 238

MAP OF GUATEMALA AND THE ADJACENT COUNTRIES. 272

The Maps and Plans are reduced copies of those already published, or in course of publication in the 'Biologia Centrali-Americana' (Archæology).

END PAPERS. Drawn from ancient American originals by Miss ANNIE HUNTER.

PHOTOGRAVURES. By the SWAN ELECTRIC ENGRAVING COMPANY.

CHROMOLITHOGRAPHS. By W. GRIGGS & SONS, Ltd.

ETCHINGS ON TISSUE. By the TYPOGRAPHIC ETCHING COMPANY.

INDEX. By Miss M. H. JAMES.

ERRATA.

TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE: The following errata have been corrected as part of the process of producing this e-text. Spelling, hyphenation, punctuation etc have also been standardised.

Page 151, _for_ Brockley _read_ Blockley.

" 4, " dosing " dozing.

" 191, " Izamal " Yzamal.

" 176, " Manakin " Manikin.

" 81, " Mosos " Mozos.

" 72, " Patzum " Patzun.

" 190, " Stevens " Stephens.

" 85, " Ututlan " Utatlan.

A GLIMPSE AT GUATEMALA,

AND

SOME NOTES ON THE

ANCIENT MONUMENTS OF CENTRAL AMERICA.