Chapter 10

From Maria Henrique to Cruces is only about nine miles. In the intermediate spaces are several savannahs, and, according to the Spanish maps, a very considerable river, called Rio de los Laxas, which enters the Chagre a little above Cruces. This river flows westward from Mount Maria Henrique; while the principal branches of the Rio Grande, which flows south into the Pacific immediately to the westward of Panama, spring from the south-west side of the mountain already mentioned. The branches of this river and of the Chagre approach very near each other; while savannahs, according to Lloyd's map, fill up, as between the Rio Grande and the Obispo, the most of the intervening space. In this short distance, and with the aid of these rivers, a water communication, were the country properly examined, it is conjectured, might be found. From Cruces the road, for a short distance, ascends considerably; after which it runs along a ridge, with a valley on each side; that on the south the deepest, being about 300 feet, and descends until it comes to a plain, through which it stretches and runs to the city of Panama. It is by quitting the old Spanish track or road, and continuing along the savannahs and levels, that it is believed the water communication adverted to could be effected; and where the distance, taking into account the short bends which may be necessary, is so short, probably not twenty miles!

These observations naturally call the attention to the consideration of a line of communication which may be had from the River (p. 094) Trinidad to the Pacific, either at Panama or a little to the westward of that town, in the bay of Chorera, at the mouth of the Rio Caymito. The condition of the country in that portion of the Isthmus has already been generally described, on the authority of Mr. Lloyd; and from what he has stated, and which is in unison with other information, not a doubt can remain that a water communication can be opened up in this quarter from sea to sea. Lines for railroads have already been chalked out in both places alluded to; and considered so easy that the sum of 400,000 dollars is estimated as the whole expense necessary to complete either. It is scarcely necessary to observe, that wherever a rail-road can be constructed, a canal may be made. The River Trinidad is a branch of the Chagre, which comes from the westward and from the south-westward, and joins the latter at about eight miles due S. W. from its mouth. The Trinidad is navigable to Embracadero, and for some distance, from its mouth, is both broad and deep. Its branches penetrate a considerable way into the country, and approach closely to the branches of the Caymito, a considerable stream, which flows through a country, in its lower course, comparatively level; while between its upper course and the Trinidad the distance is covered with savannahs and small conical hills, and in some places marshy plains--a complete proof of the level nature of the country. The streams which rise to the westward of the line alluded to, namely, in the hills stretching to the province of Veragua, mostly flow into the Chagre, another proof of the direction in which the mountains in this quarter lay; and that there is no continued chain, as has been stated, extending in the centre of the Isthmus throughout, and joining together the Andes of North and South America. From the junction of the Trinidad with the Chagre to Panama is only 26-1/2 miles, and to the mouth of the Chorera 23 miles!

Short, however, as the distances just mentioned are, they are considerably reduced, when the navigation of the Trinidad on the one side, and of the Caymito on the other, are taken into account. These reduce the greater distance at least one-half; and in it, as well as the lesser distance, the nature of the country, for a considerable (p. 095) portion of the distance, if not throughout the whole distance, overcomes almost every obstacle, or rather renders every obstacle that may offer, possible to be overcome. From that portion of the River Chagre, which is level with high-water mark at Panama, south-westward to that city, the country is interspersed with savannahs, and consequently level. Indeed, for "a few miles" inwards from Panama, the _plains_ are below the level of the sea, thus rendering the formation of a canal easy; while, on the north side of the most elevated spot, the numerous streams which spring and flow to the Chagre would afford an abundant supply of water for any canal that may be constructed, however large that may be. The distance, therefore, where any serious difficulty could occur, must be reduced to a mile or two; and in that distance, should any of those conical mountains, from 300 to 500 feet high, or insulated ridges of inconsiderable height, which Mr. Lloyd tells us are here and there to be found in these places--should any such intervene, they may be cut through without any great difficulty. The excess in the rise of the tide in the Pacific, nearly 21 feet above its rise in the Atlantic, would tend greatly to accelerate the construction, in this part of America, of a water communication; which water communication, however, be it observed, must be sufficient to admit the passage through it of ships of the very highest tonnage, and at all seasons; otherwise it will not answer the general purpose, nor interests of the world. Less might indeed suit for the conveyance of mails; but any thing less would occasion such an additional expense in unloading, transporting, and again loading goods, as would render the tedious navigation of Cape Horn preferable.

_Lake Nicaragua, &c._

The next to be considered, and perhaps the last and the best channel by which a communication between the Atlantic and the Pacific could be opened up, and safely carried on, is through central America, or the Republic of Guatemala, by means of the River St. Juan and the Lakes Nicaragua and Managua, or, as the latter is more generally called, (p. 096) Leon. These lakes are connected with each other by a river, and are navigable for ships; Nicaragua for ships of the line. The River St. Juan forms the outlet of both into the Atlantic Ocean, and is, according to Estella, navigable throughout its course for ships of large burden. The mouth of the St. Juan, according to the late survey by Capt. Owen, lays in 10°53' N. lat. and in 83°40' W. long. Leon, the capital of the province in which Lake Managua is situated, and from which the name of Leon is generally given to the latter, stands, according to the best Spanish authorities, in 12°20' N. lat. and 86°45' W. long.; and its port, Rialejo, on the Pacific, in 12°29'50" N. lat., and 87°6' W. long. From the mouth of the River St. Juan to Rialejo, in a bearing of N. 66° W. the distance is 235 miles; and this bearing runs nearly through the centre of the lakes and the course of the River St. Juan. From the point where the River St. Juan issues from the Lake Nicaragua to the point where the River Lapita, which issues from Lake Managua, falls into the former, the distance, taken on the best maps, is about 95 miles. Rialejo is situated on a river of the same name, which is deep, and capable of holding in the harbour 200 sail of the largest ships. The harbour is well protected from the force of the Pacific, and from storms, by an island stretching out before it, with two channels between it and the main land; the one opening to the south-east, and the other to the north-west. The adjacent country is very fertile, but the place itself is reckoned unhealthy, owing to some swamps in the vicinity and to the southward; but which, it is believed, might be drained and cleared, which would render the climate salubrious, or, at least, as much so as any tropical climate can be to Europeans.

Lake Nicaragua, in its broadest part, is about 35 miles: it has several considerable islands, some of them active volcanoes, and all of them fertile. The country around its shores is stated to be very healthy and very fertile, and studded with high peaks, mostly volcanic, and many of them, on both sides, volcanoes in activity. At the point on its north-east corner, where the River St. Juan issues from it, there is (according to some of our best maps) erected the castle of St. Carlos; and lower down, about 16 miles on the banks (p. 097) of the river, is placed the castle of St. Juan, which castle was taken by the English in 1780. Alcedo says that this river is navigable for ships of large size; but others add, that during the dry season, when the river is low, in one or two places the navigation is obstructed by sand banks, which, however, could easily be removed by a deepening machine, such as that used for a similar purpose on the Clyde. Lake Managua in its western shore approaches in its southern portion to within 8 to 9 miles of the Pacific; and here the conical peak range appears to be discontinued and broken. So also it is in the route from Leon to Rialejo, a distance of 21 miles. The next nearest point of communication is to the southward of the town of Grenada, situate on the upper part of Lake Nicaragua, westward to the port of St. Juan, which runs considerably into the country from the Pacific. Here the distance from the lake to the sea is 10 miles. The next point of communication is from the neighbourhood of the town of Nicaragua to the bottom of the Gulf of Papagayo, the distance being about 15 miles. The river Partido flows from the S. E. through a course of fully 60 miles, and enters the Pacific at the bottom of the Gulf of Papagayo. At this point, also, the volcanic peaks and the ridge appear to be interrupted, and very low, thereby rendering a passage more probable and easy. On the neck of land, also, between the upper part of Lake Nicaragua and the Pacific, there are situated in three different places between the Pacific and the interior part, three lakes, which, while it shows the low nature of the coast, tends also to shorten very considerably in this otherwise very narrow neck (12 miles), the space that intervenes between the lake and the ocean.

The American coast of the Pacific is, in fact, bordered with an alluvial plain, varying in breadth, which tends still more to lessen the breadth of the high lands in every quarter. Between the bottom of the Gulf of Papagayo to Lake Nicaragua, the distance, the alluvial strip included, is, (see Journal R. G. S. vol. vi.), only 29,880 English yards, nearly 15 geographical miles. The highest point of land that intervenes, is only 133-1/2 Spanish feet (the Spanish foot is 0.9267 English) above the level of the sea, and only 19 feet above (p. 098) the level of the lake. The lake is very deep, and at this point is said to be 15 fathoms. The surface of the lake is thus 133-1/2 Spanish feet above the level of both oceans. The tide in the Pacific in the Gulf of Papagayo rises about 11 feet, decreasing in its rise towards the north, and increasing its rise towards the south. When Mr. Canning proclaimed that he had "_called a new world into existence_," he ought, as he then might, to have kept these places, the key to both worlds, in his power, and in the power of his country.

Some Spanish authorities state, that Lake Nicaragua has a communication with the Pacific, but at what point does not appear, nor is it probable. Others state that it has a tide in it like the ocean; and if so, this certainly indicates a communication with it by some low and level channel, where the tide from the sea drives back the flow of waters from the lake. To ascertain these points are objects of great importance, and well worthy the attention of the civilized world; and the wonder is, that it has not before this time been attempted. All the old and best Spanish writers, who wrote either from access to the best materials, or from practical information regarding the Spanish territories in South America, but more especially Estalla and Alcedo, mention, in the most pointed manner, that, by the places which have just been considered, the nearest and the safest channel would be found, nay actually existed, whereby a communication could be opened up between the Atlantic and the Pacific; and farther, that the possession and the command of Fort St. Juan and the river St. Juan on the one hand, and of the port of Rialejo on the other, gave the holder and possessor of them the key to and the command of both oceans. Like the Gulf of Darien, all entrance into or examination of this quarter of America by foreigners, or travellers in general, was prohibited by the Spanish government, under the punishment of death for a violation of the law. The Spaniards were particularly averse to and jealous of England, or Englishmen, becoming acquainted with this portion of America.

In some one of the points mentioned, and most probably from Lake Managua to Rialejo, or from Lake Nicaragua to the Gulf of Papagayo, the best line for a communication between the Atlantic and the (p. 099) Pacific will be found. The shores of Lake Nicaragua are tolerably well cultivated, and it has several harbours. Numerous streams flow into it from all sides, but particularly from the north. The river St. Juan is a considerable stream--as large, say the Spanish writers, as the Guadalquiver in its lower course. In a distance so short, a canal, fit to bear ships of the very largest tonnage, could be cut, at certainly no very heavy expense; say, at the rate of 300,000_l._ for 10 miles. Even if the river St. Juan should not be found to be navigable, and that it might be most advisable to cut a canal along its banks, from the Atlantic to the lake, the distance is not very great (45 or 50 miles), and the country presents no insuperable obstacles to it; on the contrary, it is believed to be easy of access. This distance might be cut for 675,000_l._--a small sum even joined to the other, when the immense object to be attained is considered. The choice of position, after considering attentively every point, will remain between Chagre to Panama, and between St. Juan and Nicaragua to Rialejo, as to which is the best line for a water communication; for it is pretty clear that the lines to the eastward and to the southward of Panama, narrow although the neck of land certainly is in these parts, can only be looked to as points for a speedy road communication in some, and for small craft in the others.

The jealousy of the government of Spain formerly sealed up every possible line of communication between the Atlantic and the Pacific, in all the places mentioned, from the rest of the world; and it is probable that the jealousy, and also the poverty and inability of the new governments lately started up in these parts may continue to do so, if they are allowed to do so, or if they remain unaided in the enterprise by foreign capital, and not be impelled thereto by foreign, but particularly European influence. A glance at the map of these parts of America, and at a map of the world, and a moment's reflection and consideration bestowed on the great interests that depend upon it, that would be laid open and connected by such a communication, is sufficient to show the prodigious benefits which would therefrom flow to the human race, and especially to the governments and the (p. 100) people of North and South America, and those fine but comparatively poor and miserable portions of this globe. The treasures and the labours of nations would be well bestowed in completing such an undertaking. Laying open such a communication would do more to people, to cultivate, and to civilize the world, than any other effort--than all other efforts made by the world at large, when combined and brought together. No nation in the world is so deeply interested in seeing a proper communication through the best of the channels pointed out laid open, as Great Britain; and no other nation could so well undertake it as she can. The immense empire which is rising under her flag in New Holland; the large territory which she would thereby bring within the sphere of cultivation and civilization on the west coast of North America, to the north of Colombia River, where both the climate and the soil are good; the vast and important trade which she has with China, and may yet have with all the beautiful islands in the Pacific, with Japan, and with all Eastern Siberia; and the very great trade which she has, and would have with all the shores of America on the Pacific,--all render the attainment of the object contemplated peculiarly her interest, and peculiarly her province to undertake, support, complete, and protect, in a way and on a scale worthy of the intelligence, the enterprize, the strength, and the resources of her government and her people. The number of people, and the traffic which it would in time add to the present trade and population of the world, exceed the powers of calculation.

Taking Lake Nicaragua as the point for the communication between the two seas, the calculations which have been made as to periods and distances connected with the conveyance of mails from Europe, in order to cross the Pacific, will not be materially different from those which would arise were Panama to be chosen as the point of communication. Confining every thing to this route, it is necessary to consider and to show what advantage trade and commerce would derive from it; what extent of commerce would pass through this line of communication;, and what revenue could reasonably, and with propriety, be raised therefrom, in order to prove a remuneration for the (p. 101) expense of the undertaking.

The official records of British trade and commerce, and also the official records of the trade and commerce of the United States, will enable us to estimate these points just alluded to, for the present period, with considerable accuracy. From both records, the following extent and amount of imports and exports, and tonnage, engaged in transporting these, are selected; premising that, as regards both countries, the value of each is, without either freight or charges: and as regards the former, viz. Great Britain, the value taken is what is denominated, in the Customs return, "_the declared value_," and which, exclusive of freight and charges, is considerably below the real amount. The commerce of both states mentioned, with all the countries about to be enumerated, would most certainly pass through the channel already alluded to, besides a considerable portion more from other countries, but which is uncertain.

_Great Britain with_ Exports. Imports. Tonnage Tonnage 1834 1833 Inwards. Outwards.

China 842,852 3,528,635 29,308 8,887 New South Wales 716,014 } 12,400 29,567 Java 410,273 } 2,435 4,289 Philippine Islands 76,618 } 3,163,049 1,958 728 Siam 19,742 } " 337 E. Indies & Ceylon, 1/2 1,289,284 } 37,731 45,416 New Zealand 936 } 382 3,650 Chili 896,221 } 7,415 6,532 Peru 229,235 } 1,240,358 2,768 2,176 Mexico, 1/4 114,902 } 1,845 1,498 Whale Fisheries, 1/3 100,000 11,353 11,007 Guatemala, 1/3 10,122 10,122 136 ---------- --------- -------- -------- £4,606,199 8,042,164 107,731 114,087 -------- Freight & charges, &c. 921,235 107,731 Foreign & Colonial 1/4 1,381,858 ------- ---------- 6,303,093 Total tonnage 221,818 ----------- ------- Total British trade £14,345,257 -----------

Exclusive of specie--the amount of which, from the western coasts (p. 102) of America, cannot be less than 10,000,000 dollars yearly to Great Britain, and perhaps half as much to the United States. The value of British imports from Western America is not given in the official tables in any tangible shape, and therefore the imports are taken to be the same as the exports. The amount of imports from China is taken correctly from the tables; and the value of all the rest, as near as possible, from the same tables, in proportion; the whole being entered to all countries east of the Cape, China excepted; but in this amount also the amount for freight and charges should, it is thought, be added. The proportion of foreign and colonial produce, &c. to British manufactures exported, is, according to the official tables, as near as may be, the proportion taken. The value of the whole British trade to the places specified, may therefore be fairly taken at 17,500,000_l._ exports and imports, and exclusive of the profits thereon.

Next comes the trade which the United States have with all these places. In this there are more precise data, as the value both of exports and imports is given in their tables; but it may be observed, that the amount, both as regards imports and exports, is given exclusive of freights and charges, which in almost all the articles carried is greater in proportion, as regards the American trade, than in British produce and manufactures. It may also be observed, that the whole trade which the United States have with all countries to the eastward of the Mauritius, would pass through, and return through, the communication made in central America, as the nearest and the best route for them. The following was the trade and tonnage of the United States with the places specified in 1835:--

_United States with_ (p. 103)

Imports. Exports. Tonnage Tonnage Inwards. Outwards. British East Indies, dolls. 2,293,012 406,543 7,400 5,655 Dutch ditto 582,159 581,149 3,497 8,669 Spanish ditto 283,685 15,919 2,647 222 Asia generally 377,842 434,037 479 2,593 China 7,892,327 1,010,483 15,550 8,123 Mexico, 1/2 4,033,034 5,265,053 18,225 15,768 Chili 787,409 1,476,355 2,535 9,191 Peru 618,412 58,863 493 685 South Seas 27,348 97,169 39,506 280 N. W. Coast America " 118,813 45,886 ---------- ---------- -------- ------- 16,595,228 9,464,384 136,218 51,216 1/4 freights, &c. &c. 4,123,807 2,388,093 51,216 ------- ---------- ---------- -------- 20,719,035 11,852,477 187,434 11,852,477 ---------- -------- ---------- Total United States 32,571,512 Ditto specie 5,000,000 ----------- Grand total, dollars 37,571,512--Sterling, £7,827,398 at 4_s._2_d._ -----------

_General Trade and Tonnage._

Value Trade. Extent Tonnage. British £17,500,000 221,818 United States 7,827,398 187,434 ----------- ------- Total £25,327,398 409,252 tons. ----------- -------