Part 14
The Coffee-house de la Victoria was thronged both inside and out; and wine and beer were drank in profusion. Various toasts were given, amongst which was "Religious Toleration." There was abundance of speechifying, describing the past and the future, with the happiness in reserve for the inhabitants of the province of the Rio de la Plata. Some hundreds formed themselves into military array, and, with banners and music, proceeded through the streets, singing the national hymn, and shouting opposite the houses of known patriots with loud _vivas_. At the residence of the British Consul they cheered for England, the King of England, and liberty. At the American minister's, similar compliments were bestowed on North America. Colonel Forbes invited them inside, and pledged them in bumpers of wine. During the whole of the night the assemblage continued in the streets, with music and singing; yet but few irregularities took place. Some violent spirits declaimed against the Brazilians, and, it is said, windows were broken at the Brazilian Consul's house;[34] but this act was quickly discountenanced by the rest. In fact, they have nothing here which can put one in mind of a mob, especially an English mob. The bands that paraded the streets were composed of the most genteel young men of the town. A young man named Saravia is looked up to as a sort of leader and manager on these popular occasions; possessing abundance of wit, activity, a tolerable share of oratory, and staunch patriotism, Saravia plays no insignificant part in the politics of Buenos Ayres.
[34] The arrival of a Brazilian frigate _Maria de Gloria_, of thirty-two guns, Captain Beaurepaire, on 7th March, 1825, caused much conversation and speculation upon their errand; such as coming to demand satisfaction for insults offered to their consul, &c. A burlesque letter appeared in the _Argentina_ newspaper upon the subject. Considerable animosity exists against the Brazilians, in consequence of their continuing to occupy the other side of the river. The frigate departed on 16th March. The officers appeared well-behaved men.
Public dinners were given at Faunch's Hotel. Eighty Creolian gentlemen sat down to an entertainment of this description. The dining-room was decorated with flags of all nations, portraits of Bolivar, Sucre, &c.; and military music was in attendance, which played "God save the King!" upon the King of England's health being proposed.[35]
[35] It is amusing to hear the opinion which most foreigners entertain of his majesty George IV. of Great Britain. They fancy him another Don Giovanni. I was riding with a Portuguese officer, near Colonia, one evening in December, 1821, when we heard the discharge of minute guns fired from H.M.S. _Slaney_, in the outer roads of Buenos Ayres, upon the death of the Queen. I explained to the Portuguese the cause of the firing: he smiled, and exclaimed, "Is it possible that your libertine King has ordered a mourning salvo upon such an occasion? surely it must mean a rejoicing." The people in Colonia, I found, harboured pretty much the same opinion; so I thought it behoved me, as a good and loyal subject, to take up the cudgels in defence of his majesty, of whom I am a great admirer; and I took great pains to impress upon them, that the chief failings laid to his majesty's charge were nothing more than those so common with our countrymen, _viz._ a too enthusiastic devotion at the shrines of Venus and Bacchus.
Another dinner was given by Don Gregorio Heras, the governor, at the house of the Consulado, in the same style and splendour, and rivalling even London itself. The bumper toasts were numerous and appropriate.[36]
[36] Among the toasts given at one of the banquets held in honour of the victory of Ayacucho, Mr. Canning's health was drank in the following terms:--"_El Sabio Ministro de Inglaterra, el primer Estadista del mundo, el Honorable George Canning, fiel amigo de la libertad! la justicia preside en sus deliberaciones; su nombre sera un motivo de placer para nostros, y para las generaciones que nos sucedan._" Translation: "The learned Minister of England, the first Statesman in the world, the Honourable George Canning, the faithful friend of liberty! justice presides in his deliberations; his name will be an honour to place amongst our's, and the generations which succeed us."
Mr. Canning is highly popular in Buenos Ayres, especially with the Creolian part of the inhabitants: a report that he had resigned office, created much uneasiness, as he is looked up to as the firmest friend of South American liberty. The _éclat_ of his ministerial career throws into the shade the Castlereagh quarrel, and his alleged desertion of the King in the affair of the Queen. Such appears to be Mr. Canning's popularity, that his enemies may now "scoff in safety."
A subscription ball and supper was likewise given by some of the Buenos Ayrean gentlemen, at the Consulado. English and other foreigners attended in considerable numbers. The _patio_, or court-yard, covered by an awning, and brilliantly decorated, was devoted to dancing: the concourse of ladies was very great, who, by their style of dancing and charming attire, rendered the scene exceedingly fascinating, upon a par with any such amusements in Europe. The dancing continued all night, and until nearly seven o'clock on the Sunday morning, not having any Bishop of London or sanctified gentry to interfere. Unfortunately, the night proved intensely hot. The supper table was laid out in the grand saloon.
The North-American gentlemen resident in Buenos Ayres, on the 23d February, 1825, gave a similar entertainment at the same building, the Consulado, in honour of the victory of Ayacucho, and of Washington's birth-day. Having more time for preparation, and the evening being cool it was the most superb affair ever seen in this country; and as regarded effect, it could hardly be surpassed. The awning was arranged in the form of a dome; and the walls of the court-yard in which the dance was held were covered with flags: Buenos Ayrean, Peruvian, Chilian, British, and American, were most conspicuous. The glare of light falling on these colours, with the sylph-like movements of the ladies mingling in the dance, made all appear enchantment, realizing the fables of Eastern romance. "London cannot beat this!" exclaimed a John Bull just arrived from England, as he entered the scene of festivity: the graceful attitudes and appearance of the female part of the company evidently surprised him. The music was of the first description; Masoni and other professors presiding. It was the first entertainment given in this country by the North Americans to the Buenos Ayres public; and they certainly succeeded to the utmost, reflecting the highest honour upon their liberality and patriotism. It may be said that "all the world" of Buenos Ayres was there, and they did not separate until seven o'clock the next morning. The exterior of the Consulado was illuminated, with the names of _Washington_, _Bolivar_, _Sucre_.
The substantial part of these different entertainments was superintended by Faunch, the English hotel keeper, the only man in this country competent to the undertaking: his arrangements would not disgrace Messrs. Gunter and Debatt.
The town was illuminated during the three nights of Carnival. In the Plaza, the names of the South-American heroes blazed from the "Casa de Policia." The _rompe cabeza_ (or break head), greased masts, and other sports, took place; two military bands of music playing alternately. The weather being fine, added to the pleasure; the streets and Plaza were filled with people. I viewed the scene as an event, perhaps, never to occur again--I mean as to such a continuance of enthusiasm and festivals; and, like Noodle and Doodle, "as we never saw the like before, 'tis fit we make the most of it." I had, too, my forebodings, and was not quite so sanguine as to the future moral happiness of the country: for as population increases, its attendants, crime and misery, follow.
The theatre was open the three nights; the national hymn was sung, the house decorated, &c. The British consul, with his suite, attended on one of the nights of Carnival; and on the Sunday, went in state from the Fort to the Cathedral church. All the public officers were in the train, including the foreign consuls. It was a walking procession; and Mr. Poussett, the British vice-consul, walked with Mr. Slacum, the North-American consul. Some forty or fifty years back, who could have dreamt of such an event--a British consul joining in a procession with a consul of her colonies, now independent, to celebrate the independence of another part of the American continent.
Buenos Ayres illuminations are of a very inferior description, a candle or two placed in each window; no tasteful transparencies. The house of Mr. Losana was an exception: he had a transparency of the British and North American national arms, and an incessant rattling of fire-works (crackers) from the roof and windows of his mansion.
On the 24th February, a triumphal car was paraded through the streets, followed by a piece of artillery, and another car containing arms of all descriptions, the whole preceded by persons bearing torches, and military music. The grand car was adorned with flags: the British flag I did not observe amongst them. When the cavalcade reached the Plaza, it was overtaken by a Pampero wind, with the usual accompaniment of dust, obscuring the atmosphere, and obliging shops and windows to be instantly closed. The London pickpockets, during these squalls would find ample field for their talents.
During the rejoicings for the Ayacucho victory, the _Aranzazu_ brig of war had the flag of old Spain floating under that of Buenos Ayres.
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CONCLUDING REMARKS.--The great want of this country is population; and until it is increased by an industrious race, agriculture will remain at its present low ebb; and they will have no sure defence against distant enemies, powerful neighbours, and the ravages of the Indians. It would be advantageous to encourage emigration from the over-peopled countries of Europe, give them protection and an interest in the country; then Buenos Ayres may reach those high destinies which her sanguine politicians pretend to see in perspective; but it is not by simple talking, that this is to be done. England reached her present greatness by degrees, and by various sacrifices. I am aware that many in Buenos Ayres view the influx of strangers with jealousy, and talk very highly of their powerful means, &c. But, setting aside the old adage, that "boasters do the least," what could protect them, if an alteration should take place in European politics, and any one of the states of Europe, without fear of obstruction, should determine to appropriate the province of Buenos Ayres to itself? The 150,000 men, women, and children, that now inhabit it, would stand a miserable chance against the hordes that would be then let loose upon them. Therefore, an increase of population, having all the rights of citizens, would be an increase of power; and, in defence of their property and homes, they would all join heart and hand to drive the spoilers from their adopted land.
If, however, an attack from any European power be considered an event too distant or improbable to create any apprehension, Buenos Ayres has a more immediate danger to provide against, from an enemy whose attacks are neither problematical nor easily to be parried. This province is unfortunately exposed to the ravages of the Indians, who murder the inhabitants, and carry off the cattle, spreading desolation and terror around. They are frequently within a hundred miles of the city, and in 1823 they approached much nearer. They advance in general, from the S. or S.E. quarter, in bodies of 3, 4, 5, and 600, armed with spear and lasso. In using the last, they are almost sure to entrap the unfortunates within their reach. The forces opposed to them appear inadequate; the horses, unable to endure the hardships of such a campaign, have not been found equal to those of the Indians; and as prisoners taken by them seldom meet with mercy, it has inspired timidity. When likely to be hard pressed, the Indians disperse in all directions, flying to their inaccessible retreats. The late Governor Rodriguez headed several expeditions against them, but without any marked success.
Four officers of Buenos Ayres, in 1823, were sent with a message to the Indians, who were detained and murdered. One of them, a Polish gentleman, named Bullicusque, had been in Napoleon's army, and was much esteemed. He had some talent at caricature: one which he made of Mr. Rivadavia attempting to climb the _Rompe Cabeza_, in allusion to the suppression of the Friars, caused some mirth.
That any portion of the civilized part of South America should, at this period, be held in terror by Indians, is a disgrace to Spanish management, after 350 years of possession. The East Indies, and its hundred millions of people subject to British sway, present rather a different spectacle: they are in peace, and under the protection of the laws; the once powerful Mahratta nation, the Pindarees, and other warlike tribes having been subdued or conciliated within our time. The suppression of the predatory Indians about this province is a legacy left by the Spaniards to their late colonists.
The Indians of South America are, in persons and countenance, a striking contrast to those of Africa. They have long black hair, flat faces, short thick persons, and complexions of the mulatto cast, without any thing in their countenances to denote ferocity, judging from those I have seen in the streets of Buenos Ayres as prisoners. They have a slight clothing, but it is very filthy. The woolly hair and tawny skin are not seen amongst them. They are much attached to their _caciques_, or chiefs.
In the present state of the province, it is a question whether it would not be sound policy to take into pay 3 or 4000 foreign troops, and, by placing them in cantonments on the exposed frontiers, awe the Indians, and give the state a greater respect with other nations.
Every Buenos Ayrean who really loves his country, will view the arrival of a settler emigrant amongst them more as a benefit than an injury.
Some of my countrymen are of opinion, that the acknowledgment of the independence of Buenos Ayres by the British government will induce many to emigrate from home, and thus add to the strength, industry, and capital of this province. I should rejoice at such an occurrence; our England, Ireland, and Scotland, can well spare from their too numerous population.
But, unless a person has some settled object of business, Buenos Ayres will not prove the most eligible place to speculate upon for employment.
Clerks, unless they possess strong recommendations, or come expressly engaged, had better not venture upon the voyage: they will, in all probability, meet with great disappointment. The mercantile houses have their clerks sent from the firms at home; little chance in that capacity, therefore, remains for others. Many have returned to England, finding that to continue here was only making bad worse.
It is professions of the first necessity that succeed. Mechanics are sure of employment, and with prudence can save money. A journeyman carpenter may earn, by piece-work, four to five dollars per day; their regular wages from the English masters are from forty to forty-five and forty-eight dollars per month. Braziers, blacksmiths, &c. do well: Englishmen have shops in all those branches. Labourers of all descriptions are in request.
Farming I do not conceive a profitable concern: labour is high, and the foreign farmer, from the sort of men he must employ, is continually exposed to petty thefts, the punishment of which causes great annoyance and trouble. English labourers generally manage to leave their master the moment they become useful. Several Englishmen have tried the system of farming, without much success; it is more adapted to the natives, and, from what I have heard, they make nothing extraordinary of it. It is possible that a man with a capital of 800 to 1000_l._ may more than live; but it ought to be a strong temptation to induce an individual with that property to leave his country, and to be well assured of the probable advantages of such an experiment. At the present moment a rapid fortune is not to be made as a farmer; he must be content to plod on for years, with great anxiety, and labour to boot. The soil, rich as it is, requires artificial aid.
It is in holding _estancias_, or grazing farms, that money has been made; and from the high price of hides, and the continual demand for them, this affords every prospect of advantage.
Emigrants will not find the conveniences they have at home, but as many comforts as they can possibly expect in a foreign land, including the favourable climate.
An English female, upon her first arrival in this country would not find herself very comfortable; it must take some time to reconcile her to the loss of home, dress, mode of living--every thing so different; the only alleviation is in the society of her country folks, and the kind behaviour of the people, which will soon soften those feelings, and when somewhat conversant in the language, she would become attached to Spanish society, from whom she may be assured of receiving the most delicate attentions that hospitality can prompt.
A person will not be long in Buenos Ayres without picking up acquaintances with its inhabitants; amongst whom are some very intelligent young men. I have sometimes thought it would give me pleasure to conduct one of them to England, to be--not exactly a Mentor (needing that myself), but a sort of escort to him in the modern Babylon, London; to explain its many varieties, from the mansions of the nobility, down to the _fondas_ of St. Giles's, where plates, knives, and forks, are chained to the tables, to prevent the customers walking off with them.
Common report asserts, that a strong French faction exists in Buenos Ayres. I will not pretend to offer an opinion upon this. Three years ago, I thought there was a decided leaning towards France: but I do not think there is so much now. If it were only for the sake of consistency, they must be ashamed of French politics, and the war in Spain, undertaken, as "an experiment to try the fidelity of the French army," according to Monsieur Chateaubriand, who asserted that a few months campaigning had done more good for France than years of peace. That a portion of the inhabitants may be attached to the French, is probable; their manners and religion assimilate more than ours. An Englishman is looked upon as a strange creature, different from the rest of the world. Other nations have not that characteristic of country (excepting the North Americans): a Frenchman, Italian, &c. mixes in the crowd as one of the country in which he resides, and is scarcely recognized as a foreigner; but nature seems to have placed her peculiar mark upon us, and, in conjunction with our law against expatriation, seems to assert, that "once an Englishman, always an Englishman." It would appear that strangers can almost discover us blindfold: often, on the darkest night, I have been accosted by boys and others as an Englishman.
The old Spanish part of the population, I dare say, dislike, and can never forgive us; we are ever the subject of their sneering remarks, and must expect to be so. That we can act from principles of pure honour, appears to them impossible; and they affect to trace self-interest at the bottom of all our professions, particularly as to the proceedings of the British government toward South America, which have gained us so much popularity with those states; and given British politics the lead, which indeed never stood more high in Buenos Ayres than at the present moment.
Englishmen are aware that very few like them as a nation, however they may respect them as individuals; and should our country be once on the wane, there would be plenty of helping hands to press us further down. It requires no extraordinary sagacity to account for this animosity. I am certain, however, we have numerous friends in Buenos Ayres. The rising generation have, in a manner, grown up with us. Time will wear away antiquated prejudices, and it will be seen that the calumnies which have been heaped upon our nation for ages, have not been deserved. Many fine young Englishmen reside in Buenos Ayres in mercantile and other employments: this portion associate a great deal with the inhabitants, with whom they have formed a perfect intimacy.
I do not expect emigration from England yet, to any great extent. The English people, in general, have a repugnance to live under foreign laws, and where the influence of a religion prevails which from childhood they have been taught to believe is inimical to their own. But, waving these considerations, they would have little else to complain of. Here is a rich soil, without any dread of sands and blights, as at the Cape of Good Hope; and if they cannot amass a fortune, they are sure to live, and that comfortably. Of the kind-hearted inhabitants I have already spoken: my countrymen may be assured, there are no foreigners with whom he will find himself so much at home as with the Buenos Ayreans. Therefore, I again repeat, that farmers with a small capital may gain a livelihood--perhaps, more; labourers are sure of constant employment; and mechanics are ever in request. The climate is congenial; the government are their sure protectors; and the people, in spite of every prejudice, esteem our nation. The age of revolutions, I think, is past; and, during their utmost violence, strangers were never molested. British vessels from Liverpool are continually arriving: and the cost of the passage is moderate.
Whenever fate conducts me from this country, I shall quit it with regret for any other place but my native home, and must always feel the most sincere esteem and gratitude towards the fine and generous people amongst whom I have so long resided, and where I have enjoyed happiness I little thought to experience out of Great Britain. I came to Buenos Ayres somewhat prejudiced, expecting to observe illiberality and bigotry, in place of the many amiable qualities of which I have found them possessed; and although I am as complete an home-sick Englishman as ever quitted his paternal shores, yet such is my attachment to Buenos Ayres, that I look up to it as my second home, and feel the deepest interest in its welfare.
COLONIA DEL SACRAMENTO.
I visited Colonia del Sacramento for a short period. It lies east of Buenos Ayres, distant across the river thirty miles, and may sometimes be seen from the latter city: when this is the case, it denotes a change of weather to wind or rain.