Part 9
On the right hand is a boat-builder's yard, and on the left a glass-house, belonging to Messrs. Biddle and Lloyd. Proceeding towards the windmill, you perceive at a short distance on the right hand another glass-house, belonging to Messrs. Shakespear and Fletcher. Ascending the hill, there is on the right an extensive view over the adjacent country, including Barr-beacon, Mr. Boulton's plantations, and Winson-green, a neat house, in the possession of Mrs. Steward. On the left is Summerfield-house, late the residence of John Iddins, Esq. but now of James Woolley, Esq. and beyond it, a neat white house, occupied by Mr. Hammond. Over an apparently wooded country, you have a windmill in full view, and when at the foot of the hill, on the right is Smethwick grove, the residence of John Lewis Moilliet, Esq.
* * * * *
You now enter Smethwick, which is in Staffordshire, and ascending the hill, a neat brick house makes its appearance on the right hand, where John Reynolds, Esq. resides, who, by succeeding to what was considered by Mr. Lane, his predecessor, to be a worn out trade, accumulated a considerable fortune, and has retired from business to enjoy it near twenty years. At the summit of the hill on the left is Shireland hall, which is now converted into a seminary for young ladies, under the superintendance of Miss Marmont.
There are in Smethwick some works of considerable magnitude, viz. Messrs. Boulton and Watt's manufactory for steam engines; an extensive soap work, belonging to Messrs. Adkins and Nock; a manufactory of brass, under the denomination of the Smethwick brass company; and also one of British crown glass, belonging to Thomas Shutt and Co. There is a house called the Beakes, where Wm. Wynne Smith, Esq. resides.
The place of worship is a chapel of ease to the parish of Harborne, and is a neat modern brick tower building, of a single pace, lofty and coved, about sixty feet by twenty-four, and well paved, with a gallery at the west end. The present incumbent is the Rev. Edward Dales, who resides in the neat parsonage-house on the south side of the chapel yard.
Leaving Smethwick, you proceed towards Oldbury, upon which road the trustees are making great improvements, by widening the road and turning the course of a brook, over which they are building a bridge, which when finished will be a great accommodation. This village is situated in the county of Salop, and is a chapel of ease to Halesowen. A new court-house was erected here in the year 1816, where the court of requests is held once a fortnight. The protestant dissenters have here a neat place of worship, as have also the methodists. Close to the village are several coal mines, and a blast furnace, belonging to Mr. Parker.[7]
[Footnote 7: From this place you have an excellent view of Rowley hills, the ruins of Dudley castle, and the fine woods in Sandwell park.]
About a mile distant, on the left of the road is the Brades, where Messrs. William Hunt and Sons have established a considerable manufacture of iron and steel, which they form into scythes, hay knives, trowels, and every kind of hoe now in use. This road from Birmingham to Dudley is at least one mile nearer than going through West-bromwich, and in my opinion will be sufficiently commodious for the traffic there is between the two towns. The distance is only nine miles, and in travelling that short space of ground you are in four different counties; Birmingham being in Warwickshire; Smethwick, in Staffordshire; Oldbury, in Shropshire; and Dudley in the county of Worcester.
N. B. Since writing the above, the bridge is completed, and the whole line of road improved to a considerable degree.
_To Hockley-house, ten miles, on the road to Stratford-upon-Avon and also to Warwick._
You proceed through Deritend, up Camp-hill, and when near the summit, there is on the right hand an ancient brick building, called the Ravenhurst, the residence of Mr. John Lowe, attorney, who is equally respectable in his profession, as the house is in appearance. A short distance beyond on the left is Fair-hill, where Samuel Lloyd, Esq. resides, and on the opposite side of the road is the Larches, the abode of Wm. Withering, Esq.--This house, when it belonged to Mr. Darbyshire, was known by the name of Foul Lake, but when Dr. Priestley resided there, he gave it the name of Fair-hill; afterwards, being purchased by Dr. Withering, he altered the name of it to the Larches. Having passed through the turnpike, on the left is Sparkbrook-house, John Rotton, Esq. resident. At the distance of one mile and a half the road to Warwick branches off to the left, and on the summit of the hill is Spark-hill-house, inhabited by Miss Morris. Opposite the three mile stone is a very neat pile of building, called Green-bank-house, where Benjamin Cooke, Esq. has taken up his abode. A little beyond, at a place called the Coal-bank, there is a free school, which is endowed with about forty pounds per annum.
At a short distance on the left is Marston chapel, which is usually called Hall-green chapel: it was erected and endowed by Job Marston, Esq. of Hall-green hall, with about ninety acres of land, and other donations.
At the distance of five miles, you pass through a village called Shirley Street; and at the distance of another fire miles, you arrive at Hockley-house; a place of entertainment, where travellers of every denomination are accommodated in a genteel manner, and on reasonable terms. About one mile from hence, on the road to Stratford, is Umberslade, or Omberslade, where the Archer family were used to reside, but it is now untenanted.
_From Hockley-house to Warwick, ten miles._
At the distance of one quarter of a mile, there is on the right a view of Lapworth church, and on the left is Pack wood-house, which is at present unoccupied. At Rowington, the Warwick canal is carried at an immense expense over a deep valley, and also through a tunnel of considerable length; on the left is the village church, to which you ascend by steps cut in the solid rock, and near to it is the handsome residence of Samuel Aston, Esq. from hence you proceed through Hatton to Warwick.
_To Warwick, twenty miles_--_Leamington, twenty-two miles._
You proceed through Deritend and Bordesley, continuing upon the Stratford road for one mile and a half, when you turn to the left; and at the distance of two miles there is a view over a well-wooded country, with the spire of Yardley church on the left. At Acock's-green there is a prospect nearly similar; and in a field, opposite the five mile stone, there is an extensive picturesque landscape, with a sheet of water in front, which covers about thirty acres;[8] in the midst of which is a small island, with some trees upon it, that adds considerably to the scene.
[Footnote 8: This sheet of water is the reservoir of the Warwick canal.]
_Solihull, distant seven miles._
This beautiful, neat, and clean village had at one time a market, but that has been discontinued for a long time. There are still three fairs annually; one on the 29th of April, another on the 11th of September, and the third on the 12th of October. There are here several genteel and commodious houses; the vicinity being very respectable. The, church is an ancient gothic pile of building, with an elegant spire. The Rev. Charles Curtis is rector.
Leaving the village, on the right you pass by Malvern-hall, the residence of H.G. Lewis, Esq. and afterwards arrive at Balsall Temple, which in former days belonged to the knights templars, and at their dissolution the knights hospitallers became possessed of it, in whom it remained till the general dissolution of the abbies. It was afterwards converted into an hospital, for the reception of indigent women, either unmarried or widows, to be selected from Balsall and Long Itchington, in Warwickshire, Trentham, in Staffordshire, or Lillenhall, in Shropshire. This institution is now in great prosperity, the annual income amounting to near £1500; the number of its alms-women is at present thirty. The buildings are extensive and substantial, forming a complete square, and healthfully situated on the verge of a spacious and fertile green. The trustees are the bishop of Lichfield and Coventry, together with the Earls of Warwick and Aylesford, assisted by other respectable gentlemen in the county, who have placed the whole institution under the immediate charge of a master, with a salary of £150. per annum, who is at this time the Rev. J. Short.
To those who admire antiquity, Balsall church will be a pleasing object, as it now remains nearly in the same state as it was when first erected, about seven hundred years back. Its dimensions are one hundred and two feet long, thirty-eight broad, and fifty-seven high. At the east and west ends are lofty windows, extending from the roof nearly to the ground, and on each side are three noble windows. The heads of all the windows are ornamented with beautiful tracery, and no two of them resemble each other. There are no divisions withinside, and what distinguishes the chancel from the body of the church is an ascent of three steps. The walls are very substantial, and so clustered with ivy, that it forces its way through any small fissures into the interior. Over the west door there is a low turret, and below the cornice is a row of ten heads, in a good state of preservation, which are considered to be of excellent workmanship.
Near the church is the ancient hall of the templars, formerly a splendid apartment, but now it is converted into a barn, which is represented to have been one hundred and forty feet in length.
A little farther is Springfield, the elegant and delightful mansion of Joseph Boultbee, Esq. and at a short distance is Knowle, which is a small old town, on elevated ground, in the midst of fertile fields. This church is of considerable size, and exhibits marks of antiquity in its remains of stained glass and grotesque carved work.
Not far from hence is Baddesley-Clinton-hall, the seat of Edward Ferrers, Esq. and about one mile beyond is a small inn, known by the name of Tom o'Bedlam, near to which is a venerable oak tree, supposed to be two hundred years old, measuring in girth twenty yards, from which one branch extends across a road thirty feet wide. You next come to Wroxhall abbey, the residence of Christopher Wren, Esq. a descendant from the noted Sir Christopher Wren, who erected St. Paul's cathedral, in London. The church of Wroxhall is an ancient structure, forming one side of a square, the buildings of the abbey forming the other three sides. The windows, which are ornamented with stained glass, are remarkably fine: the two figures of Moses and Aaron are admired, not only for the drapery, but also for the splendid colours.
About one mile before you arrive at Hatton, there is to the left a pleasant view over a well-wooded country, in the midst of which the ivied towers and magnificent battlements of Kenilworth castle present themselves to view. Hatton is a small village over which the celebrated and learned Dr. Parr presides. At Hatton-hill, near the two mile stone, there is an extensive and diversified prospect over the fertile tract that surrounds Warwick; in every part highly cultivated, and adorned with woods, encircled by gently-rising hills; and in the back ground are seen Shuckburgh-hill on one side and Edge-hill on the other.
_Warwick_. This ancient town is seated on a rock, to which you ascend in every direction, there being four avenues; one from Birmingham, another from Stratford, a third from Coventry, and a fourth from Banbury. The eminence on which the town is erected is itself encircled by hills at the distance of from two to three miles, which bound the prospect in every direction, except to the N.E. where you may see into Northamptonshire, and to the S.W. where the eye ranges over an extensive country, backed by the hills in Glocestershire and Worcestershire. The surrounding country is very fruitful, being cultivated with great care, and the enclosures separated by beautiful hedges, which are richly adorned with trees in a flourishing condition, and also by the river Avon, which meanders here in a considerable stream, and near Warwick is augmented by the junction of the Leam. The town being seated on a dry eminence, is exposed to the genial influence of the sun, which rarifies the air, and renders the atmosphere so salubrious and warm, that in its vicinity the seasons are frequently earlier by a fortnight than they are at the distance of twenty or thirty miles. The four principal streets cross each other at right angles, and lead to the cardinal points.
Great improvements have of late been made in them, by the introduction of culverts, repaving the carriage roads, and laying the footpaths with flags. Lamps are lighted during the winter months, at the expense of the corporation, who have in a commendable manner widened the narrow parts of some streets, and removed numerous obstructions; which gives an air of liveliness to this once sleepy town, and the inhabitants, being rowsed from their lethargy, are now become active and industrious.--The canal from Birmingham comes to this town, from whence it is continued to Napton, where it unites with the Oxford, and by means of it, with the grand junction canal.
The town is governed by a mayor, twelve aldermen, and twelve principal burgesses, with a town clerk and a recorder, who are empowered to make laws for the regulation of the borough, and upon all offenders to impose reasonable fines and penalties. Here are two manufactories of cotton, one of lace, and one of worsted, all of them upon an extensive scale, which contribute considerably to the cheerful activity and increasing population. There are here held twelve fairs annually; the market, which is well supplied, is on a Saturday; the quarter sessions for the county, and also the assizes.--The horse races take place in September, and a second meeting of the same kind is held in November. This borough sends two members to parliament, who are elected by those who pay scot and lot; the number of electors being about five hundred.
Here are two churches; one dedicated to St. Mary and the other to St. Nicholas: there, are also places of worship for presbyterians, quakers, independants, baptists, and Wesleyans.
In the vicinity, the following places are deserving of attention:--Guy's cliff, the ruins of Kenilworth castle, Stoneleigh abbey, Charlcott-house, and Combe abbey. Passing over the new bridge, on the road to Leamington, there is a grand picturesque view of Warwick; there being in the foreground the rich meadows, with the Avon meandering through them, the church of St. Nicholas, and the trees behind, which form a dark shade. Near to it is the castellated entrance into the castle, and the elegant tower of St. Peter's chapel. On the right is the priory, with its beautiful woods. The town is perceptible in the centre, with the tower of St. Mary's, which rises above the variegated and extensive groves of the castle. On the left is the principal object, the castle, which raises its lofty embattled towers over the shady groves with which it is surrounded. The elegant bridge, whose span is 105 feet, is a prominent feature in the landscape.
On the road leading to Tachbrook, about one mile from the town, the eye is gratified with a rich and luxuriant landscape, wherein appears the church of St. Nicholas, the priory, the hospital of St. John, the tower of St. Mary's church, and, to crown the whole, the castle.
The walks and rides in the vicinity of this town present innumerable objects deserving of attention, and whoever takes delight in rural scenery, may here be amply gratified.
In addition to these works, there is a considerable manufactory of hats, and an iron-foundry; to which may be added a corn mill, wherein are five pair of stones, and three of them constantly in motion, by which means they are enabled to grind and dress three hundred bushels of flour every day.
_The County Hall._
This is an elegant pile of building, with a stone front, ornamented with pillars of the Corinthian order, to which, the ascent is by a flight of steps, through folding doors, into a noble room of just proportions, being ninety-four feet in length and thirty-six in breadth. At each end are semicircular recesses, surmounted by cupolas, and fitted up with convenient galleries, where the two courts of justice are held; the criminal court being on the right, and that for civil causes on the left; between which there is accommodation for the servants and attendants upon the court. Above there is an apartment where the petit juries occasionally retire, and adjoining it is the room where the grand jury assemble. The quarter sessions for the county are also held in this hall, and in it all county meetings are convened. During the races there is a temporary boarded floor laid down, and the hall is converted into a ball-room, the two recesses being fitted up for card parties: the pillars with which it is ornamented are encircled with wreaths of lamps, and what was before the solemn court of justice, is now converted into a brilliant and sportive scene, where gaiety and fashion take place of their predecessors.
_The Court House._
This spacious and elegant pile of building is appropriated to the use of the body corporate, there being two rooms on the ground floor; that on the right is where the mayor and aldermen hold their assemblies, and the other is fitted up as a court, where the sessions are held for the borough. On the second floor, there is a commodious, well-proportioned apartment, sixty feet by twenty-seven, which is fitted up in an elegant manner with superb cut-glass chandeliers of large dimensions, at one end of which is an orchestra and also a card room adjoining. In this room annual entertainments are given by the mayor, and public meetings for the borough are convened. In it public lectures upon any particular subject are occasionally delivered, and it is also sometimes used as a ballroom.
_The Market House._
This substantial building does credit to the town; it being very convenient for those who bring the produce of their farms to market. The upper apartments are made use of as store-rooms for the arms and accoutrements of the military within the county. From its summit there is a fine view of the town, and also a prospect of the surrounding country.
_The Stone Bridge_.
This elegant structure, which is erected across the river Avon, consists of one arch, measuring 105 feet in the span, at the expense of four thousand pounds: one thousand was contributed by the corporation, and the remainder was defrayed by the Earl of Warwick.
_The Iron Bridge_.
The rock whereon this town is erected being cut away, to make a road into it twenty-four feet wide, Charles Mills, Esq. one of the members for the borough, caused an iron bridge to be erected at his expense, across this road, and thereby formed a junction between the marketplace and the Saltsford.
_The Theatre_.
The town not being very extensive, this building was erected to correspond with the population: it is no ways remarkable in its external appearance, but it is fitted up in a neat and convenient manner within, and is always opened during the races.
_College School_.
This ancient pile of building is of considerable size, and in it the native children of the parish, who think proper to take advantage of the institution, are educated free of expense; but as the course of instruction is prescribed to the learned languages only, its utility as a free school for general education is very contracted. The salary of the master, who must be a clergyman of the established religion, is seventy-five pounds, and he having but little employment, has an assistant, who receives annually thirty pounds, exclusive of other emoluments. To this school two estates were left in trust, to provide two exhibitions of seventy pounds each, for two young men, natives of the town, towards defraying the expense of their education, at Oxford, for the space of seven years.
There is also a public library, wherein is a considerable collection of well-chosen books, chiefly of modern literature; but the building that contains it is not deserving of notice.
The charitable donations and benefactions that have been left to this town are very numerous, and amount to a large sum of money.
Here are six different alms-houses, one school wherein thirty-nine boys are taught reading, writing, and arithmetic, and thirty-six girls are instructed in reading, writing, sewing, and knitting. There is also a school of industry, and four sunday schools. A lying-in charity is also established here, for the relief of poor married women, residing within the borough, who each of them are accommodated with a set of child-bed linen for one month, one pound of candles, one pound of soap, and during the winter months, with two hundred weight of coals. They are also provided with a sufficient quantity of caudle, together with proper attendants, and all necessary medical advice. In addition to the before-mentioned there are two poor-houses.
There is also a very ancient building, denominated Leicester's hospital, for the reception of twelve indigent men, who are termed brethren, together with a master, who must be a clergyman of the established church, and in preference to all others, if he offers himself, the vicar of St. Mary's. It is endowed with land, which at the time was valued at £200 per annum, but now amounts to near £2000, exclusive of the vicarage of Hampton-in-Arden, which is in the gift of the brethren, who usually bestow it upon the master. It had long been ascertained that the clear annual rental of the estate far exceeded all that could be required for the support of the number of brethren in the hospital, and that the salary of the master was fixed at fifty pounds per annum.
In the year 1813, this important business was brought before parliament, when it appeared, that each of the brethren received, clear of all deductions, about £130 per year each, which sum the act leaves them in the possession of; but it provides, as vacancies occur, either by death or otherwise, on the admission of every new member, his annual income shall not exceed £80, and that the surplus £50 shall one half of it go to the increase of the master's salary, until it amounts to £400 per annum, and the remainder is to form a fund for the support of ten additional members. The qualification for admission being now fixed at £50 per annum: no candidate is to be possessed of an income exceeding that. Adjoining to the hospital is a chapel, which is neatly fitted up for the use of the brethren, the master, and his family, who daily assemble there for morning and evening prayer, except on those days when service is performed at St. Mary's, where their attendance is then required.
_St. Mary's Church_.