Part 5

It has an elegant entrance through a capacious saloon, at the extremity of which there is a noble flight of stairs, leading to an elegant and spacious assembly room, in length, including the orchestra, wherein there is a handsome and fine-toned organ, eighty feet, and in breadth thirty-three feet. It is fitted up in a tasteful and decorative manner, with three rich cut-glass chandeliers, five lustres, and six large mirrors.

This hotel is considered one of the first in point of comfort and accommodation, and not being subject to the annoyance of stage coaches, makes it a very desirable residence for families who think proper to reside any time in the town, to inspect the different manufactories and show rooms.

This hotel has been honoured with the presence of Prince William of Gloucester, Lord Nelson, the Duke of Wellington, the Grand Duchess of Oldenburgh (now Queen of Wirtemberg, and sister of Alexander, Emperor of Russia), the King of France, the Grand Dukes Nicholas and Michael, &c. &c. This house is also considered one of the first in the kingdom for the accommodation of posting, where an extensive supply of horses and carriages are always in readiness.

_Statue to the Memory of Lord Nelson._

Nearly at the top of the market-place, and fronting St. Martin's church, a statue of this never-to-be-forgotten hero was exposed to public view, on the 25th of October, 1809; the day on which was celebrated the jubilee of our august sovereign George 3d. It was executed in bronze, by Westmacott, a statuary of the first eminence, at the expense of £2500, which was raised by voluntary subscription, to immortalize the memory of that much-lamented admiral. The attitude of the figure is expressive of that dignity and serenity with which the original was characterised, and the resemblance is upon the whole admitted to be more than usually correct. The circular pedestal whereon it is erected, is ornamented with figures in alto relievo, in a bold and masterly style, the limbs being so disposed, that except real violence is used, they are not liable to be injured. The relative proportion of the whole is admirable, and the general effect it produces gives the utmost satisfaction. As an artist, every praise is due to Mr. Westmacott, for the admirable skill he has displayed, and also for his unassuming conduct in presence of the committee, who had been appointed to superintend its execution.

On the scaffolding being removed, and the statue exhibited to public inspection, the following illustration of it was distributed by Mr. Westmacott:--

"In this work, intended to perpetuate the greatest example of naval genius, simplicity has been the chief object in the arrangement. The hero is represented in a reposed and dignified attitude, his left arm reclining upon an anchor: he appears in the costume of his native country, invested with the insignia of those honours by which his sovereign and distant princes distinguished him. To the right of the statue, the grand symbol of the naval profession is introduced. Victory, the constant attendant upon her favourite hero, embellishes the prow. To the left is disposed a sail, which being placed behind the statue, gives breadth to that view of the composition. Above the ship is a facsimile of the Flag Staff Truck of l'Orient, which was fished up by Sir Samuel Hood, the day following the battle of the Nile, and presented by him to Lord Nelson; the same being deposited at Mitford, as a trophy of that ever-memorable action. This group is surmounted upon a pedestal of statuary marble; a circular form having been selected, as best adapted to the situation. To personify that affectionate regard which caused the present patriotic tribute to be raised, the town of Birmingham is represented in a dejected attitude, murally crowned, mourning her loss; she being accompanied by groups of genii, or children, in allusion to the rising generation, who offer consolation to her, by producing the trident and the rudder."

In front of the pedestal is the following inscription:--

THIS STATUE IN HONOUR OF ADMIRAL LORD NELSON, WAS ERECTED BY THE INHABITANTS OF BIRMINGHAM A. D. MDCCCIX.

The whole is inclosed by iron palisadoes, in the form of boarding pikes, connected by a twisted cable. At each of the four corners is fixed a cannon, erect, from which issues a lamp post, representing a cluster of pikes, supporting a ship lantern.

The late Mr. Joseph Farror, of this town, at his decease, bequeathed six-pence per week, to be paid for ever, out of rents arising from a house in Bradford-street, for keeping the basement and statue of Lord Nelson clean and free from dirt, which is received by the wardens of St. Martin's church.

_Proof House._

Although government have at all times a large store of fire arms in the tower of London, yet, after the revolution had taken place in France, and England was threatened with an invasion, the numerous volunteers who offered their services at that time, to repel the enemy, required such a profusion to be distributed among them, that it became necessary to purchase large quantities from any part of the continent where they could be procured; and the volunteers of this town were supplied with muskets from Prussia. The words 'liberty' and 'equality', used by the French military, produced such an effect on the continent, that England was necessitated to manufacture arms for its own defence. Thus situated, application was made to the gun-makers in this town, but the number of hands at that time employed in the trade was so limited, that they could only supply small quantities; but when war was renewed, after the peace of Amiens, great encouragement being given by government, the manufacturers of arms in this town were, in the year 1804, enabled to supply five thousand stand of arms monthly.

At that time, so many workmen had obtained a knowledge of the trade, that in the year 1809 the government were supplied with twenty thousand stand of arms monthly, and in 1810, the number was increased from twenty-eight to thirty thousand monthly; and that number was regularly supplied until the peace of Paris.

In order to expedite the business, a proof house was established by government, in Lancaster-street, under an inspector from the board of ordnance.

An act of parliament was obtained in the year 1813, for the erection of a proof house in this town, where all barrels of guns, pistols, blunderbusses, etc. must be proved and marked, under a severe penalty; and since that time, the manufacturing of fowling pieces has increased to a considerable degree.

It is situated on the banks of the canal, in Banbury-street, and is conducted under the direction of three wardens, who are annually made choice of from the body of guardians and trustees, they being nominated in the act of parliament.[4] In addition to them, the Lords Lieutenants for the counties of Warwick, Worcester, and Stafford, the members serving in parliament for the said counties, for the time being, respectively, and the magistrates acting within seven miles of the town of Birmingham, are appointed as guardians.

[Footnote 4:

John Heeley, Warden. John Adams, Warden and Treasurer.

William Allport, | Bartholomew Redfern, | Auditors of Accounts.

William Ryan, Warden.

Robert Wheeler John Oughton John Jones Richard Sutherland John Smith John Mabson Joseph Tarton John Olive Stephen Wallis]

The corn mill at the bottom of Snowhill was erected about the year 1781: the brick work of this extensive building, which is excellent in its kind, was executed by Mr. Edward Jones, according to contract; which was, for bricks, mortar, and labour, one guinea per thousand. This mill, and also that adjoining, were erected by the late Mr. James Pickard, and were the first steam engines that worked by a rotatory motion, he being the person who first applied the crank to those machines, and for which invention he obtained a patent, but I do not know that he ever erected any others; for Messrs. Boulton and Watt, in order to evade the patent, substituted the sun and planet wheels, which they continued to use until the patent expired.

At the latter mill, where metal was rolled and other business carried on, a pump was fixed, and a boy employed to work it, for the purpose of keeping the machinery cool; but after some time, the youth being inclined to play, fixed a pole from the engine to the lever of the pump, which gave rise to the practise that was afterwards followed, of making the engine supply itself with water for that purpose. The boy for his ingenuity was afterwards employed withinside the mill.

_Union Mill._

There being a great scarcity of corn in the year 1795, the wealthy inhabitants raised a subscription, and having purchased a large quantity of foreign corn, at Liverpool, it was soon conveyed here, but it very unfortunately happened that at the time, neither wind nor water mills could be worked, to grind it. From this circumstance, Mr. William Bell, a man who possessed a fertile genius, suggested the idea of erecting a steam mill, and set on foot a subscription for that purpose, there being about seven thousand subscribers, at one pound each. It was for several years very doubtful whether this mill could be supported or not; but having surmounted those difficulties, it has for several years been a very profitable concern; shares being at the present time eagerly sought after, at three pounds ten shillings per share.

This mill turning out so beneficial, and the boundaries of the town being extended to a considerable degree, the same Mr. Bell projected another, which he called _The New Union Mill._

Upon a more extensive scale than the former, which was in time carried into effect; but like other things in an infant state, it has difficulties to encounter. The committee having expended as much money in superfluous buildings, as would have supported the mill in credit.

Steam engines are erected in every direction round the town, they being found to accelerate business, and abridge manual labour.

_Public Breweries._

Of these there are three; one of them situated in Warstone-lane, belongs to Forrest and Sons; another in Deritend, is the property of Richards and Goddington; and the third is near Broad-street, conducted by a public company.

_Glass Houses._

The manufacture of flint glass, and the various methods of ornamenting it, gives employment to a great number of people in this town; it having within the last twenty years increased to a very considerable degree; there being at this time, in the town and its immediate vicinity, six glass houses in full work.

_Beardsworth's Repository for Horses and Carriages,_

Is upon an extensive scale, about sixty yards from the S.W. corner of Smithfield, where there are always a variety of both on sale, and a public auction takes place every Thursday in the forenoon.

_Smithfield_

Is situated about sixty yards to the S. of St. Martin's church. Neat cattle, sheep, and pigs being exposed to sale, upon the identical spot where the ancient barons of Birmingham were accustomed to hold their midnight revels, and to feast their dependants. The hospitable mansion having been demolished long since, the moat was filled up, and the ground prepared in a very commodious manner for the intended purpose, against Michaelmas Day, 1817, at which time the fair was proclaimed, and it has since been used as a market.

_Inspection of Raw Hides._

Parliament having passed an act to prevent frauds from being practised in raw hides, a very convenient situation was fixed upon for their examination, in Park-street, where two persons are annually appointed to inspect them.

_Public Scales._

A short distance from the statue of Lord Nelson, one of the beadles is stationed every market day, with the public scales and weights, where any person may weigh whatever articles of provision they have purchased, free of expense, which is a very laudable institution, and has proved of the greatest utility.

_Improvements._

Within the last twenty years, the interior of the town has experienced very considerable improvements; numerous houses adjacent to the church yard of St. Martin have been entirely removed, and the space they occupied is thrown open to enlarge the market place.

The entrance into several streets have been made considerably wider, and by that means rendered more commodious; some of the streets have been re-paved, and the water conveyed by culverts, instead of annoying the pedestrian as it used to do. Some parts of the town are already lighted by gas, and preparations are making for the general use of it; but in those streets where it has been introduced, a great part of the brilliant light it produces is obscured for want of clean lamps. Those who have the care of them, either do not know how, or will not be at the trouble of making a strong lie of ash balls and hot water, which with a little labour and attention will remove the greasy particles that adhere to them.--It having been customary to fix the lamps adjacent to the houses, the same method is still pursued; but if light cylindrical lamp posts of cast iron were fixed between the curb stone and the water course, every part of the street would be benefited by the alteration. The lamps should be made with a hole in the bottom, similar to those used in halls, and fit into a socket at the top of the lamp post.

This fashionable mode of producing artificial light, gives employment to great numbers of people in this town, not only for the use of public streets, but also elegant branches for the interior of houses.

_Newspapers._

There are four published in this town: Aris's Gazette, by Mr. Thomas Knott, jun. on Monday morning; Swinney's Birmingham Chronicle, by Mr. James Ferrall, on Wednesday evening; the Birmingham Commercial Herald, by Messrs. Richard Jabet and Co. on Saturday evening; also, the Argus, on the same evening.

_The Markets._

Although there is not any shelter for the country people, yet in the most stormy weather this town is abundantly supplied with provisions of all kinds, every Monday, Thursday, and Saturday. This being the grand mart, the fertile vale of Evesham pours forth its fruit and vegetables in great profusion; and as auxiliaries, the vicinity of Tamworth and also of Lichfield send hither great quantities; in short, whatever provisions of a good quality are brought here, the market is never overstocked.

The butchers in this town are dispersed over every part of it, where they live and enjoy those comforts with their families that it is not possible to do when they are congregated together in shambles; and in this extensive town, no person is necessitated to lose much time, or walk far from home, to provide for his family.

Considering the distance from hence to the sea coast, the inhabitants are well supplied with fish of various kinds, and at a moderate price.

Opposite the quaker's meeting in Bull-street, there is, in front of the house occupied by Mr. Standley, a most admirable piece of brick-work, (the lock-maker's arms, under a most beautiful arch), such as is very seldom seen, and does infinite credit to whoever executed it; but some simpleton has defaced the arms to a considerable degree, by colouring them to represent stone. This was about as necessary as paint is for the faces of women:--to make them look worse afterwards. This exquisite performance appears to have been done about one hundred and fifty years; the house having been invariably in the possession of a person eminent as a lock-maker during the above period.

In Moor-street, there is another specimen of the same kind, about one hundred yards above the public office, which was executed in the year 1671, being arms, a chevron between three goats' heads, and a goat's head for a crest. Such specimens of brick work as these are very seldom seen.

_Square_.

There is near the centre of the town, what is called the Square; the buildings which surround it were uniform; but one eighth part was some years back fronted with stone, and converted into a tavern, which is denominated the Stork. This house of entertainment, from its private situation and being near the centre of the town, is much resorted to by travellers; there being capacious stabling behind, and in front there are some shrubs, inclosed by iron pallisadoes. For those who are at leisure, there is an excellent billiard table.

_John-a-Dean's Hole._

At the bottom of Digbeth, about forty yards from Deritend Bridge, there is on the left a water course that receives a small drain from Digbeth, and also from the adjacent lands; which stream separates the parishes of Aston and Birmingham, and is known by the name of John-a-Dean's hole, from a person of that name who is said to have lost his life there.

_Baths, near Lady Well,_

Are always ready for the accommodation of hot or cold bathing, and also for immersion or amusement, together with sudorific apartments. The swimming bath is in length thirty-six yards, and in breadth eighteen yards, containing more than 2000 hogsheads of spring water, and gradually slopes from the depth of one to five feet; being situated in the centre of a garden, wherein are twenty-four apartments to undress and dress in; the whole being surrounded by a wall, ten feet high, and fine lofty trees. There are also very decent baths in Newtown-row, near Lancaster-street.

_Houses_.

By an accurate survey, taken in the year 1810, it appears that there were then 9196 front houses, and 8214 back houses, within the connected streets of Birmingham, which, reckoning five and a half to a house, makes the population 97,405. There appears to be about 400 houses erected annually, which will make the number at the present time 18510, and the population 101,805.

The old Roman road, denominated Ikenield-street, that extends from Southampton to Tyremouth, enters this parish near the observatory in Ladywood-lane, crosses the road to Dudley at the Sand Pits, and proceeding along Warstone-lane, leaves the parish in Hockley-brook; but is distinctly to be seen at the distance of five miles, both in Sutton park and on the Coldfield, in perfect repair, as when the Romans left it.

_The Parsonage House_

Of St. Martin, situated near Smallbrook-street, is in all probability one of the most ancient entire buildings in this part of the country; it being a low, half-timbered erection, surrounded by a moat; in front of which is, what was the tythe barn, being near sixty yards in length, now made use of as warehouses.

By late regulations in the post office, an innovation has crept in that is highly reprehensible, and ought not to be continued. Before mail coaches were established, Coleshill was a place of considerably more note then, as a post town, than Birmingham, it being very common for people in the north to direct their letters for Birmingham, to turn at Coleshill. This being the case, if the directors of the post office think proper to change the route for their own convenience, that is no reason why the public should be charged with the expense. Dudley and Coleshill being both of them the same distance from Birmingham, what reason can be assigned why a letter to Dudley should be four-pence and to Coleshill six-pence?

The country for a few miles round the town is in every direction studded with houses, belonging to the opulent inhabitants of Birmingham, or of those who have retired from the busy scenes of life.

Whoever walks much about this town, will perceive one very remarkable circumstance: at the top of a street you ascend into the houses by a flight of steps, and in the lower part of the same street, you descend into some of the houses; this is exemplified in Edmund-street, and particularly in Newhall-street and Lionel-street.

There are two fairs in the year, one of them is held on Thursday in the Whitsun week, and the other on the last Thursday in September: the horses being exposed for sale in Bristol-street; the neat cattle, sheep, and pigs in Smithfield.

The established market is on Thursday, but the town being so populous, there is a very good market both on Monday and Saturday. Hay and straw are exposed for sale every Tuesday, in Smithfield.

_Jackson's Trust._

George Jackson, of Birmingham, mercer, gave certain premises, in Deritend, for placing out two apprentices, annually; present rent, six pounds per annum.

Some years back, the church of St. Martin being under repair, the workmen discovered that the four pinnacles, (one at each corner of the tower), were very much decayed, upon which, the powers at that time in authority concluded, that they should be re-constructed, and to make a finish, fixed a vane upon each of them, without considering, that, the steeple being in the centre, it was not possible for the wind invariably to act upon all alike; consequently, any other termination would have been more appropriate.

In the jurisprudence of this town, there is one remarkable circumstance; the chief constable of Hemlingford hundred, wherein Birmingham is situated, is of course superior to the two constables of this town; yet they, by virtue of their office, preside over the common prison, and of course the appointment of prison-keeper is vested in them; but, strange to relate, the chief constable of the hundred is keeper of the prison, in Birmingham: consequently, although he is their superior, he is at the same time subservient to them.

_Private Carriages_.

Within this town and its immediate vicinity there are more than fifty carriages, of different descriptions, on four wheels, and upwards of three hundred on two wheels, that pay the duty.

The number of hackney coaches that ply in the streets is twelve, under the following regulated fares.

_Hackney Coach Fares._ Under one mile .................. 1 6 1 mile and under 1-1/2 .......... 2 0 1-1/2 mile and under 2 .......... 3 0 2 miles and under 2-1/2 ......... 4 0 2-1/2 miles and under 3 ......... 5 0 3 miles and under 3-1/2 ......... 6 0 3-1/2 miles and under 4 ......... 7 0

An extra half fare if carrying more than four persons.

_Time_.

For every forty minutes, one shilling, and for every twenty minutes afterwards, six-pence in addition. If employed, or kept in waiting, betwixt the hours of twelve o'clock at night and five o'clock in the morning, double the above fares are allowed.

The late Mr. Baskerville, whose printed works are in such high estimation, both for paper and print, resided at a place called Easy Hill, at that time quite distant from the town; the house being encircled by an extensive paddock. At this place he erected a mill for the making of paper, in which article he excelled all his contemporaries, as he also did in the formation of his types, which, to the disgrace of this country, were permitted to be sold into France. This once delightful spot is now surrounded with buildings, the house wherein he resided is converted into a manufactory, and the land into wharfs.

About twenty yards above the statue in honour of Lord Nelson, there was within memory the market cross, from whence the roads in every direction were measured; but from some cause or other, that custom has been altered, and it is difficult to say from what part of the town some of the roads are now measured; for example, the road to Walsall. This road having been considerably shortened and improved, is now considered to be eight miles distant: (it was some years back, ten miles); but from the centre of one town to that of the other, will measure nine miles; and whoever travels that road must very justly pay for that distance.

The road to Stourbridge and Kidderminster is another instance where the mile stones are not to be depended upon; for the one mile stone on that road is considerably more than that distance from the centre of the town.