Part 12
Having passed the five mile stone, there is on the right a beautiful view over the enclosures, backed by the beeches, at Frankley. Before you arrive at the six mile stone is Northfield, from whence there is on the left a beautiful landscape; the elegant spire of King's Norton church being distinctly seen. From hence to Bromsgrove is seven miles, in great part over the Lickey, where the eye is gratified with numerous extensive views, from one of the highest spots of land in the kingdom. This is ascertained by two springs that issue from it, one of which, flows into the Severn and the other into the Trent.
_To Coleshill, distant ten miles, on the road to Atherstone._
You leave Birmingham through Coleshill-street, and having passed by Ashted-row, you perceive the lofty trees in Vauxhall gardens, which must be left on the right hand, and a few hundred yards afterwards, keeping the right hand road, you pass by, on the right, Duddeston, an elegant pile of building, the residence of Samuel Galton, Esq. but it is scarcely discernable, on account of the shrubberies by which it is surrounded. You now pass through the village of Saltley, and at the extremity, on the left, is Bennett's hill, where Mr. William Hutton, the venerable historian of Birmingham resided, and ended his days. This residence, so denominated by the proprietor, was originally a very small house, with the entrance in the centre, and a small room on each side, to which has been added two wings, or rather rooms, being only one story in height: there is a wall by the road side, five feet high, the top of which is on a level with the top of the parlour windows; the entrance to it having been altered from the front to the side. The eccentricity of the owner appears, by terming that a hill, which on inspection will be found in a low situation, on the side of a hill. This is noticed, because his peculiar manner of writing, his quaint expressions, and the tales he relates of himself, have caused a considerable sale for his productions, and numerous people, when they are taking an excursion, will travel some distance to view the residence of their favourite author.
A short distance beyond, on the summit of the hill, commands an extensive view of Birmingham, the venerable trees in Aston park, the spire of that church, and Barr-beacon. As you pass along the road, this delightful prospect varies every step you take for a considerable distance. These lands, formerly known by the name of Washwood heath, being inclosed in the year 1803, now let from forty to fifty shillings per acre. At the four mile stone, there is on the right a cheerful prospect over the country, with the lofty spire of Yardley church in full view. About half a mile farther, on entering a small common, the eye is delighted with an extensive and variegated view; the spire of Coleshill church being very discernable.
_Castle Bromwich, distant five miles and a half_.
Here is an ancient venerable mansion, where that eminent statesman, Sir Orlando Bridgeman, used to reside. His successor having been honoured with the title of Earl of Bradford, the eldest son of the present Earl, Lord Newport, has fixed his residence here. In the village is a neat place of worship, erected by Sir Orlando Bridgeman, who endowed it with the tythes of the parish, it being a chapel of ease to the parish of Aston.
About half a century back, when there was considerable traffic between London and Chester, the road passed through this village, and supported two respectable inns, but the mode of conveyance being changed, one of the inns is converted into a farm-house, and the other has very little custom; for the road from Birmingham to Coventry also passed through here; but it is totally deprived of that also, and is now little more than the road to Coleshill. On the road you pass by Coleshill park, an ancient seat of Lord Digby; within which there are numerous hawthorn trees of unusual magnitude: one of them produces five stems, each equal in size to a moderate man's body. Time, that devours every thing, has here made great havoc among them, and also destroyed some oaks of large dimensions.
_Coleshill_.
Yew trees being of slow growth, and the wood of close texture, are little subject to decay; yet there is in this church-yard, the remains of a yew tree, still alive, three parts at least of which is mouldered away, and only a small part of the trunk remains.
The architecture of the church is the decorated gothic or English style: it is erected on a considerable eminence, from whence there is an extensive and variegated view over the adjacent country. The interior of the church, which is dedicated to St. Peter, is spacious, and contains some monuments that are well executed; among others, there are two recumbent effigies of cross-legged knights, supposed to be of the ancient Clinton family, and those to commemorate the Digby's are numerous. It has a beautiful tower, from whence there arises an elegant spire, which being injured by lightning, it was of course taken down, and the present erection is not so lofty by fifteen feet as the former.
Coleshill has a weekly market on Wednesday, and five annual fairs, where there are numerous horses and cattle exposed to sale. Before the establishment of mail coaches it was a very considerable post town, but that is not the case now, the route being changed. The town is situated on an ascent, and in the valley flows the river Cole, from whence its name is derived. The domestic buildings are in general of a respectable appearance, and there are some modern erections that unite ornament with spacious dimensions.
_Shustock_.
This village is situated three miles from Coleshill, on the road to Atherstone, and is noticed as being the birthplace of that celebrated antiquarian, Sir William Dugdale, whose father being a clergyman, he was born at the rectory house, and dying at Blythe hall, his remains, and those of his lady, were deposited in a vault on the north side of the chancel in Shustock church.
_Maxstoke Castle_
Is situated about one mile east of Coleshill, and is erected in the form of a parallelogram, encompassed by a moat. At each corner is an hexagonal tower, with embattled parapets. The entrance is by an august and machicolated gateway, strengthened on each side by a tower of hexagonal form. The gates are covered with plates of iron, and the marks of the useless portcullis are yet visible. A portion of this edifice was accidentally destroyed by fire, but the greatest part of the ancient building still remains, and is an interesting specimen of the architectural arrangements in the 14th and 15th centuries. Among other apartments, are the spacious hall, an extensive dining room, with a door and chimney piece, which are carved in a very curious manner, and also the chapel. In the walls of the great court, there are yet remaining the caserns or lodgments for the soldiers. This venerable pile of building is now the habitation of Mrs. Dilke. A short distance from the castle are the remains of a priory, whose ruins are rendered mournfully picturesque, by the varieties of ever-green foliage with which they are cloathed in almost every direction.
_To Hat-borne, in Staffordshire, distant three miles._
Passing up Broad-street and Islington, when you are through the Five-ways[12] toll-gate, the centre road leads to Harborne. On the left is a neat white building, called Greenfield-house, the properly and abode of Hyla Holden, Esq. and a little farther on the same side of the road is the parsonage-house of Edgbaston; the resilience of the Rev. Charles Pixell.
[Footnote 12: There are now six ways, Calthorpe's road being opened in the year 1845.]
Passing by Harborne heath cottage, when you arrive at the summit of the hill, is an excellent house, where Mr. Richard Smith resides; from whose premises there is an extensive view over the adjacent country, particularly Edgbaston and King's Norton.
A short distance beyond, on the right, there is a delightful view of enclosed ground, and the Lightwoods; with a white-fronted house, called the Ravenhurst, in the centre, the residence of Mr. Daniel Ledsam, which altogether forms a beautiful landscape. Where the roads divide pass on the left, leaving the village, called Harborne Town, which is principally inhabited by men who obtain a livelihood by forging of nails, and proceed down the road which leads to Bromsgrove, where on the left is a preparatory school, for boys under ten years of age, which is conducted by Mrs. Startin. This house commands a pleasant view over the grounds that have been laid into a paddock by Mr. Price, whose neat and elegant residence, with its beautiful undulated grounds, are also on the left.
A few paces below Mr. Price's, you arrive at a small triangular grass plot, which is called the cottage green, and is surrounded by cottages, superior in neatness of appearance to what are usually met with. From hence there is a most delightful landscape of Mrs. Careless's house, which is surrounded with verdant meadows, having a considerable sheet of water in front, and in the back ground are Frankley Beeches, with the adjacent hills of Cofton and the Lickey.
There are in this vicinity some most delightful prospects, which are seen to great advantage from the handsome houses of Mr. Green Simcox, and also of his father, George Simcox, Esq. the former on the right hand and the latter on the left, as you proceed towards the church. This is an ancient tower Structure, the body having of late years been rebuilt in a neat and commodious manner; consisting of a single pace, well pewed, with a modern gallery at the west end and another at the north east corner; it is a vicarage, dedicated to St. Peter; the present vicar being the Rev. Richard Robinson.
From this church-yard the eye is again delighted with extensive and beautiful prospects; and from thence, proceeding towards Northfield, a bridge has been lately erected by subscription, which separates the parishes of Harborne and Northfield, and also the counties of Stafford and Worcester. The stream of water gives motion to a mill, belonging to Mr. Price, and feeds the mill pond, which is a fine sheet of water covering twenty-four acres. Not far from hence there is a delightful shady walk, which extends through the grounds of Mr. Price and Mr. Simcox for near a mile, and at intervals commands delightful and romantic prospects.--Within a few yards of the aforesaid bridge, the counties of Stafford, Worcester, and Warwick unite.
Returning towards Birmingham, at the sign of the Golden Cross you pass up Mitchley-lane, which separates the counties of Stafford and Warwick; the land on the right being in the parish of Edgbaston, the property of Lord Calthorpe, and on the left in Harborne, belonging to Theodore Price, Esq. About half a mile up this lane, on the left, at Fulford's farm, there is an interesting view over Mr. Price's paddock, of King's Norton, with its lofty spire, Cofton hills, Bromsgrove Lickey, Frankley Beeches, Cleat hills, &c. &c. Passing by a neat cottage belonging to Mr. Frears, you come again into the Harborne road, at Mr. Smith's.
In this village there is a free school for the children of the inhabitants, and also for those in the hamlet of Smethwick; but the endowment is slender. Here are also three Sunday schools, which are equal to any in the kingdom, the children being cloathed in a very neat manner, by each of them subscribing one penny per week; and as all the respectable inhabitants are honorary members, they subscribe one penny each also. Formerly this was a very poor village, and the roads leading to it were in all directions very bad, until the late worthy Thomas Green, Esq. having purchased the manor house and a large estate there, he afterwards improved the roads, and was at all times anxious to improve this his native spot. A monument in the church describes his character.----The old manor house was the residence of Judge Birch, and the only respectable building in the parish; which is now a common farmhouse, where there are some vestiges of old village elegance, and some comfortable apartments: it is the property of Mr. Simcox. Harborne being situated upon very high ground, and the soil light, renders the air very salubrious; instances of longevity being very numerous, particularly one couple, James Sands and his wife, one of whom; as is recorded in Fuller's Worthies, lived to the age of 140, and the other to 120.
_To King's Norton, in Worcester shire, distant five Mile_.
You leave Birmingham, either through Alcester-street or up Camphill, where there is a half-timbered house, inhabited by Mr. John Simcox, an attorney. In a field nearly opposite there is perhaps the best view over the town of Birmingham that can be taken. A short distance beyond, on the right, is a row of houses, to which is given the name of Highgate. A little farther, on the left, is a tan-yard, upon an extensive scale, the property of Mr. Avery Homer.
In a field near the two mile stone, there is a grand panoramic view of Birmingham, and the adjacent country for several miles on each side of it, which is seen to the greatest advantage in an afternoon. A little beyond is Moseley hall, an elegant stone building, erected about twenty-five years since, by the late John Taylor, Esq. and is now the residence of his widow.
The village of Moseley has nothing to attract attention. The place of worship is a chapel of ease to King's Norton: it has an ancient stone tower, but the body of it has been rebuilt of late years with brick; the officiating clergyman being the Rev. Edward Palmer. In this neighbourhood William Villers, Esq. resides, who has for a number of years been an active magistrate for the town of Birmingham. A little beyond Moseley hall there is on the right an extensive and picturesque view over Edgbaston and the adjacent country, with the monument on the right. Proceeding only a few yards farther, the scene varies in a considerable degree; the monument being on the left, a glass-house in the centre, and the front of Moseley hall in full view; over the roof of which is seen some of the buildings in Birmingham.
Upon a turn of the road, the eye is gratified with a fine view over Bromsgrove Lickey, Frankley Beeches, and the adjacent hills; with the spire of King's Norton church on the left. You next pass through the village of King's Heath, and about one mile before you reach King's Norton, there is on the right a most noble, picturesque, and variegated view over an extensive country, diversified with wood, hill, and dale; the Worcester canal being in the valley. When you arrive at the finger post, the eye is delighted with a grand view over the country; the village and church being in front..
_King's Norton_
The land for a considerable distance round this village being the property of the crown, as King's-heath, King's-wood, etc.; denote, King Edward 6th founded a free grammar school on the north east side of the church-yard, and endowed it with the sum of fifteen pounds per annum, (the inhabitants at that time preferring money to land), for a master and usher; which still remains the same to the present day. In the time of King William 3d, when the land-tax was first established, the inhabitants, to express their loyalty, gave an account of their estates, at the full value, and on that account they have ever since been rated in the same manner; this district paying four shillings in the pound, at the same time that Birmingham did not pay four-pence. This being the case, the stipend allowed for the master and usher was of course reduced in that proportion. The Worcester canal passing through this parish, and the land being considerably elevated, it enters a tunnel sixteen feet wide and eighteen feet high, which continues for the distance of two miles, and is so accurately formed, that it is said any person may look in at one end and perceive the light at the other end; and in this parish the Worcester and Stratford canals form a junction.
The church, is a richly ornamented gothic building, with a lofty spire, although only a chapel of ease to Bromsgrwe. The officiating-clergy man is the Rev. ---- Edwards.
_To Barr-beacon and Aldridge, on the road to Stafford._
Proceeding down Walmer-lane, otherwise Lancaster-street, you pass by a small portion of Aston park wall, keeping it on your right hand, and some time after cross the river Tame over Perry-bridge, when there is a road to the left which conducts you to Perry hall, an old moated mansion, within a small park; the property and residence of John Gough, Esq. who is an eccentric character. In the winter he courses with his tenants, who are all of them subservient to him; and during summer, having some deer, he disposes of the venison. If any of the neighbouring gentry send him an order for a haunch or a neck, he waits until further orders arrive; and when the principal part is engaged, he then kills a buck, and executes his orders; the inferior parts serving for self and family, although his annual income must be at least ten thousand pounds. He is said to be in possession of some valuable paintings, but there are very few people indeed who can obtain a sight of them.
At the distance of five mites, when the roads intersect each other, proceeding on the right hand, at the distance of three quarters of a mile is the catholic college, at Oscott. About one-mile farther is a place called the Quieslet, where the left hand road conducts you to an elegant lodge, the entrance into Barr-park, which is described on the road to Walsall, that being a turnpike road. You soon after arrive at a clump of trees, on the summit of a hill, which is Barr-beacon, from whence there is perhaps a prospect equally extensive and beautiful as any in the kingdom. From hence there is a view over great part of the following counties, viz. Warwick, Leicester Derby, Stafford, Chester, Salop, Worcester, Nottingham Northampton, Oxford, Glocester, Hereford, Monmouth, Brecknock, Radnor, and Montgomery; whilst the scene to the south west commands a view of Birmingham and its most populous vicinity of mines, manufactories, &c. This beacon, being the property of Sir Joseph Scott, when he is at home, a very large flag is hoisted, and upon any public occasion several pieces of cannon are fired, which produce a grand effect. The adjacent ground, for a very considerable extent, lay waste, until an act of parliament was obtained in 1798 for its inclosure. This land now lets from five shillings to twenty shillings per acre.
_Aldridge, in Staffordshire, nine miles._
The principal road from Birmingham to Stafford lay through this village, until of late years the turnpike road through Walsall and Cannock having been considerably improved, this road to the county town is nearly if not quite abandoned; yet it leads to Hednesford (usually pronounced Hedgeford), where numerous horses are annually trained for the turf, upon Cannock heath. _To Edgbaston, in Warwickshire, distant one mile._
Having passed up Broad-street and Islington, when you are through the turnpike, the left hand side of Ladywood-lane, the whole of Hagley-row, the road to Harborne, Calthorpe's road, and the right hand side of Islington-row, are all of them in this parish. Indeed the lands hereabouts are almost exclusively the property of Lord Calthorpe, whose ancestors purchased this estate, early in the last century for £25,000, and he will not permit any manufactories to be established upon his land which tends in a great degree to make the neighbourhood respectable and genteel.
The first Houses in Calthorpe's-road were erected in the year 1815; the establishment for the deaf and dumb being erected about two years before. This asylum is under the superintendance of Mr. Braidwood, and is described among the public institutions in Birmingham.--(See page 39.)
There were, in former times, within this parish, three parks, Edgbaston-park, Mitchley-park, and Rotten-park, but the two latter have many years since been thrown into inclosures. The park of Edgbaston remains entire, and the mansion within it is now the residence of Edward Johnson, M.D. who is very eminent in his profession.--The church is an ancient gothic tower, the body having of late years been very much modernized, and fitted up withinside in a very neat and commodious manner. The officiating clergyman is the Rev. Charles Pixell. There have been within the last three years a great number of genteel houses erected by the opulent inhabitants of Birmingham, who not only enjoy fresh air, but the parochial taxes of this parish do not bear any proportion with those of Birmingham. At this toll-gate, which bears the name of Five-ways, there are now, by the opening of Calthorpe's road, six separate and distinct roads. About half a mile from the toll-gate, there is on the right of the Hagley road, an observatory, a very conspicuous pile of building, seven stories high, which is usually called the Monument: it was erected by John Perrot, Esq. about the year 1758, from whence there are extensive views over the adjacent country, in every direction. The adjoining house is the residence of John Guest, Esq.
There was in this church-yard a grave-stone, cut by the hands of that celebrated typographer, Baskerville, (who was originally a stone-cutter, and afterwards kept a school in Birmingham), which is now removed and placed withinside the church. The stone being of a flaky nature, the inscription is not quite perfect, but whoever takes delight in looking at well-formed letters, may here be highly gratified: it was erected to the memory of Edw. Richards, an idiot, who died 21st September, 1728, with the following inscription :--
If innocents are the favourites of Heaven, And God but little asks where little's given, My great Creator has for me in store Eternal joys; what wise man can have more?
There is another head-stone, cut by him, with his name upon it, in the church of Handsworth, and are the only two known to be in existence.
_Yardley, in Worcestershire, distant three miles._
The road to this village lies up Deritend and Bordesley, then crossing the Warwick canal, you leave the ruins of Bordesley-house, and when through the turnpike, there being three roads you proceed along the centre, in which there are good accommodations for the pedestrian, but the carriage road does not appear to have experienced any improvement since it was first formed; for before you reach the village, the road is for a considerable distance from twenty to forty feet below the surface of the ground, on each side of it.
The church, which is dedicated to St. Giles, is an ancient pile of building. The tower and elegant spire above it appear at this time as firm and substantial as at their first erection, although they are so ancient that there are not any records to say when they were built: the body of the church is not so perfect. In the chancel there are several monuments to commemorate the Greswolds, an ancient family, formerly resident in this parish. The patronage rests with Edmund Mesey Wigley, Esq. The present vicar is the Rev. Joseph Fell. Adjoining the church-yard is an half-timbered building of large dimensions, which is a free school, liberally endowed, the salary of the master being £100 per annum.
The land in this parish being very suitable for making of tiles, innumerable quantities are there manufactured, for the supply of Birmingham.
_To Rowley Regis, in Staffordshire, distant seven miles_.
You proceed towards Kidderminster, until you arrive at the toll-gate, two miles and a half distant, when the right hand road leads to this village; where, in all probability, there are more jew's harps manufactured than there are in all Europe beside.