Part 10
This stately building taken altogether makes a very respectable appearance, particularly the tower, wherein are eight bells and a set of chimes; what is very remarkable, the principal entrance into the church is under the tower; therefore it admits of a grand view down the middle aisle, which being terminated by the east window, is seen to great advantage. There is in this church an excellent organ, and numerous monuments, but none of them any ways remarkable. From the south transept of this church, you descend by a flight of steps to St. Mary's chapel, and enter therein by folding doors, which, when opened, the eye is astonished upon viewing the interior of this beautiful and magnificent structure, which is considered to be as fine a specimen of gothic architecture as any in the kingdom, it being in the pointed style of the middle order. This chapel, having been twenty-one years in building, was finished in the year 1464, and including the monument erected to commemorate the Earl of Warwick, cost £2481, an amazing sum at that period. In the chapel there are five sumptuous monuments.
_St. Nicholas's Church_.
This incongruous pile of building is of modern date, being opened for divine service on the 17th September, 1780.
_County Gaol._
This extensive, substantial, and commodious pile of building is of solid stone, and in all respects so complete, that every purpose it was intended to answer is fully accomplished. The area of this prison contains near an acre of ground, which is surrounded by a wall twenty-three feet high, and of proportionate strength.
_County Bridewell._
This building is of stone, and contains numerous apartments, in every one of which there is a glazed window and an iron door, the sleeping rooms being furnished with iron bedsteads and chaff beds, with two rugs to each. A donation is made to every prisoner, on being released, according to the distance he is from home and behaviour during confinement. One or two shirts or shifts, a pair of shoes, or a jacket, are presented to those who have been in prison six months.
_The Castle._
The necessary limits to which this work is confined, will not admit of describing that magnificent and sumptuous pile of building; therefore those who are desirous of seeing a description of it, are referred to the local historian.
_The Priory._
This ancient edifice is in the immediate vicinity of Warwick: it was originally a complete square, three sides of which still remain, the fourth having been removed.--The western side appears to have been part of the ancient chapel, there still remaining part of the baptismal font, which is of stone, richly ornamented, and is highly deserving the attention of an antiquarian.
It is situated on a pleasing eminence, embosomed in the ancient and majestic groves, surrounded by delightful gardens and an extensive park, and presents such a beautiful sylvan scene as is rarely to be met with. The undulated surface of the ground, intermingled with numerous sheets of water, are richly adorned with trees of various kinds, of vigorous growth and the most beautiful forms, among which the elm and the chesnut are particularly conspicuous. Through this park there are several footpaths open to the public, and are the most rural and delightful walks imaginable.
_Guy's Clift_.
Leland, the antiquarian, who wrote in the time of Henry 8th, speaking of this delightful and romantic place, says, "It is the abode of pleasure, and a place delightful to the muses: there are natural cavities in the rocks, small but shady groves, clear and chrystal streams, flowery meadows, mossy caves, a gentle murmuring river running among the rocks, and to crown all, solitude and quiet, friendly in so high a degree to the muses."
The approach to this romantic place is from the Coventry road, by the side of shady plantations, until you arrive at a lofty stone arch, through which you enter the court yard, the whole of which is hewn out of the solid rock, and underneath there are subterraneous passages and cellars, wherein the atmospheric air produces so little effect, that during the heats of summer or the colds in winter the thermometer only varies one degree. In this court there are numerous stables excavated out of the solid rock, as are some of the lower apartments of the house, which is an elegant modern mansion, and near to it is the ancient chapel, with its embattled towers and gothic windows, as it was originally built in the reign of Henry 6th, and is still in good repair. Those who admire the productions of early genius will here be highly gratified, there being great numbers of original paintings, and some copies, executed by the only son of the worthy proprietor of Guy's clift, whose premature death at the age of twenty-two, caused inexpressible grief to all who were honoured with his acquaintance. Exclusive of these, there are others by artists of the greatest celebrity.
The ancient pleasure grounds exhibit a great variety of pleasing objects, and also numerous curiosities; among others, a mill that was in being before the Norman conquest, it being mentioned in doomsday book. There is also Guy's well, where this renowned champion was accustomed to slake his thirst, which is described by Leland as follows, it still remaining in the same state as it was then--"The silver wells in the meadows were enclosed with pure white sleek stones, like marble, and a pretty house, erected like a cage, one end only open, to keep comers from the rain." The apartments under the chapel, where the chantry priests were used to reside, still remain entire, without having undergone any alteration. Near to this spot is Guy's cave,
"Where with his hands he hew'd a house, Out of a craggy rock of stone, And lived, like a palmer, poor, Within that house alone."
This bears the appearance of being a natural eave, for the upper part does not exhibit any marks where the tool has been made use of, but the lower part does; and here, tradition says, this mighty warrior was interred, and also his wife, fair Phillis. Over this cave is fair Phillis's walk, who, it is related, was accustomed to resort here, whilst her husband, though not known to her as such, was performing his devotions in the cave below. From these delightful and romantic walks there are numerous opportunities for an expert draughtsman to exercise his abilities.
_Leamington Priors._
The distance between Warwick and Leamington is only two miles, and there are two distinct roads, both of them excellent; and whether a person rides or walks, if the mind is susceptible of pleasing ideas, neither time nor fatigue will be thought of. The roads about Leamington are in excellent order, and present numerous delightful and picturesque views, which are fully described by Mr. Field, and also by Mr. Moncrief in his Guide to Leamington, wherein he has introduced some appropriate, entertaining, and amusing poetry. Whoever resorts to these saline springs in search of amusement, if he has money and time at command, cannot fail, during the season, between May and November, of being highly gratified, except the mind is entirely depraved. To every visitant, the guide of Mr. Moncrief will not only be useful but entertaining. The poetical epistles of Miss Fidget are not only descriptive but very humorous, and the poetry of Mr. Pensile is very appropriate.
Before Leamington rose into esteem, there was a facetious man resided there, named Benjamin Satchwell, by trade a shoemaker, who, when any differences arose among the villagers, he was in general the mediator; they not being at that time cursed with either a wrangling lawyer or an hypocritical methodist. He was also the village poet, and frequently exercised his talents in praise of the waters, and likewise of any respectable person who came with intent to derive benefit from them. He is said to have kept annals in verse of its rise and progress, and also cases of cures performed by the virtues of the saline spring, and that he let them out to the visitors for their amusement, on certain terms. Admitting this to be true, is it not very singular that Mr. Bisset, nor his predecessor, Mr. Pratt, should neither of them introduce these jeu des esprits, for the entertainment of their readers, or why did not Mr. Moncrief collect them together; they certainly would have increased the sale of his work? As they are overlooked by the local historians, it is not likely that a casual visitor should stumble upon them.
This village having for a series of years been celebrated for a spring of saline water, it has for some time become fashionable to resort there. The first baths were erected in the year 1786, now called the Centre well, by Mr. Thomas Abbotts, a native of the place; the beneficial effects of the water having been noticed and recommended by Dr. Kerr, of Northampton, and Dr. Allen. At this time there were two baths, one of them hot and the other cold, which for several years afforded sufficient accommodation for all invalids who resorted there, and were in general lodged at the adjacent cottages, there being no more than two small inns, the Bowling Green and the sign of the Dog.
Dr. Edward Johnstone, of Birmingham, having recommended the use of these waters to several of his patients, the number of visitants increased annually, so that in 1790, Matthew Wise, Esq. caused another well to be opened, now called the Road well, where he erected a range of baths, more spacious than the others, to which was annexed considerably more conveniences, with some pretensions to elegance; but as yet no additional apartments were provided for the accommodation of strangers, except a few more of the cottagers fitting up additional rooms, it being no more than a rural and retired village.
In the year 1794, Dr. Lambe, a physician of eminence, who resided at Warwick, published in the fifth volume of the Memoirs of the Manchester Philosophical Society, an accurate analysis of the Leamington water, by which it appears to possess the same genial influence on the human frame as the water of Cheltenham, which was then rising into celebrity. There was one very material difference between the waters of Leamington and those of Cheltenham, there being at the former place an abundant supply of the mineral water, not only for drinking but for hot and cold bathing; whilst, on the contrary, the saline spring at Cheltenham scarcely produced a sufficient quantity for drinking. The influx of visitors to Leamington now increased with such rapidity, that every cottager exerted himself to fit up lodgings, and every house to which lodgers resorted improved their appearance; in short, new wells were opened, new houses erected, and not only new streets formed in the old town, as it was now called, but a plan was drawn for the erection of a new town, which has within a few years increased in a most astonishing manner.
The Dukes of Bedford and Gordon, attended by their Duchesses, having visited and remained at Leamington for some time, it induced the Earl of Aylesford, who is lord of the manor, and of course, proprietor of the spring, to visit Leamington, where, having made the necessary enquiries, he gave orders that the spring should be properly inclosed, at his expense, securing to the poor the benefit of the waters, and had he lived, it was his intention to have erected baths for their accommodation. The visitants increasing in number, Mr. Wise has augmented the number of his baths, there being one cold bath, four hot for the use of gentlemen, seven for ladies, and one for children, all fitted up with Dutch tiles, or Derbyshire marble, and furnished for the convenience of invalids, with hand rails: to each of the baths is attached a dressing room, with a fire-place in it. Adjoining these baths there is a small but elegant pump-room; the water being raised by a horse engine.
In 1810, a fourth well was opened, which is called the Bridge well, and is situated near the bridge, close to the river: it belongs to Mr. Robbins, who has erected one large cold bath, three hot baths, and one for children.--These, with the exception of the last, are accompanied by convenient dressing-rooms; the water being raised by a horse engine.
The South well, the property of the Rev. Mr. Read, was opened in the same year, (1810), where there are one cold bath, formed with Dutch tiles, three hot baths, one of them being marble, and one for children: these baths are very neat, but they have not the convenience of dressing-rooms.
During the same year, (1810), a sixth well was opened on the north side of the river, where a magnificent suite of baths and a spacious pump-room are erected, at the expense of twenty-five thousand pounds; there are twenty in number, hot, cold, tepid, vapour, and shower; one of them being a chair bath, which is an admirable contrivance to immerge the invalid, on the chair where he was undressed, into the bath, in a secure and easy manner.--These baths are spacious, and admirably constructed with Dutch tiles, and most of them have the accommodation of dressing-rooms. The water is raised by a steam engine of two horse power; and to the great credit of the proprietors, they have devoted one hot and two cold baths to the use of the poor. This extensive building exhibits a noble front, the central part being one hundred and six feet in length and thirty in height, to which there are two wings, each of them extending thirty-feet and in height twenty. A spacious colonade, formed by double pillars of the Doric order, encompass it on three sides, all of native stone, makes this building rank among the first and most magnificent structures in the kingdom. It was designed and executed by Mr. C.S. Smith, architect of London. The baths for the use of the ladies are nearest to the river, and those at the other end are for gentlemen, the entrance to them being from the two wings. The entrance to the pump-room, which is extensive, lofty, and of exact proportions, is through folding doors at each extremity of the central building.--The ornaments of the ceiling, the cornices, and in fact, the whole interior embellishments, are chaste and simply elegant. On one side the light is introduced through seven windows, and on the opposite side by one window of large dimensions, composed of stained glass. Underneath this window there are two elegant chimney pieces, formed of Kilkenny marble. At the western extremity of the room, on an ornamental pedestal of Derbyshire marble, there is the pump, if it may be so called, it having a bason in the centre, which is enclosed by a neat mahogany ballustrade. The visitors receive the water in glasses from beautiful damsels, and to whom it is usual to give a gratuity. The terms for drinking the water at these baths is 3s. 6d. per week, exclusive of the gratuity. At the other wells it is 2s. 6d. per week, and the gratuity. The terms for bathing appear to be in general, 3s. for a warm bath, 2s. for that of a child, and 1s. 6d. for a cold bath, with a gratuity to the attendant.
In the year 1816, a seventh well made its appearance in Clemens-street, which bears the pompous title of the imperial sulphuric medical font, and ladies' marble baths. There are here four baths, with a dressing-room to each, and also an elegant pump-room.
Lest seven wells and fifty baths should not be sufficient to accommodate the visitors at Leamington, preparations are making for the eighth well, near Ranelagh gardens, where the baths are intended to be more splendid than any of the former, and also the pump-room, under the title of the Spa.
From the hour of seven to nine in the morning is the accustomed time to promenade and drink the water, though numbers defer it till after breakfast, and bathe in the evening before they retire to rest.
When the warm baths are not in use, they are invariably kept and shewn empty, being filled in presence of the visitor, or during the time he is preparing to use them; the process of filling not requiring more than three minutes. The cold baths are in general emptied and of course filled every day, or more frequently if required; but of late they are not much resorted to, the warm or tepid bath being preferred. The prevailing opinion among medical men is, that the latter is by far the more efficacious in most disorders, and more conducive to health than the former; because, where a person continues immersed in saline water for some time, it enters into the pores of the skin, and by that means is more likely to be of benefit in cutaneous or other disorders for which it is usually recommended.
The houses in Union-parade, Upper Union-street, Cross-street, and others, being erected, some public-spirited gentlemen, in order to attract the attention of the public, in the year 1813 resolved to erect an assembly-room that might vie with, if not excel those of Bath and Cheltenham.
This, at the expense of ten thousand pounds, was carried into execution by a pupil of the celebrated Wyatt. The spacious front of this beautiful edifice is constructed with native stone, wherein no superfluous ornaments are admitted. In the central part there are a range of seven windows, supported by light pilasters of the Ionic order, surmounted by a plain entablature. Two handsome wings project from the main building, and judiciously relieve it; they contain those apartments that are usual and necessary appendages to a large assembly room.--There are two entrances into this building; one on the eastern side, from Union-parade, through a small porch, supported by four Ionic columns; the other, the principal entrance, is from Upper Cross-street, through a pair of large folding doors in the right wing, into the hall. The hall is spacious and well-proportioned, the refectory being opposite to the entrance. To the right is a billiard-room, containing a massive mahogany table, made by Fernyhough, of London, said to be worth one hundred guineas, and to the left a flight of stairs conducts you to another billiard-room, which, although it is not quite so spacious, is equally commodious as the other. On the same side you enter the ball-room through a pair of folding doors: this magnificent room measures in length eighty-two feet, in width thirty-six, and in height twenty-six. From the ceiling, which is beautifully ornamented with stucco, three superb chandeliers of cut glass are suspended, which with those in the other apartments are said to have cost one thousand guineas. The range of windows aforementioned are furnished with curtains of crimson moreen, edged with black fringe. On the opposite side of the room there are two fire-places, the chimney pieces being formed of Kilkenny marble, highly polished, over which are two ornamental mirrors of large dimensions. At the upper end is the orchestra, to the left of which is a door leading into the card room, which is a spacious and elegant apartment, and beyond it is a reading-room, well provided with the London and provincial newspapers, to which are added some of the most esteemed periodical publications. On ball nights, this room is appropriated for tea. From the month of June till November balls are held every Thursday night, at eight o'clock, and card assemblies occasionally throughout the season. The whole concern is under the direction of a committee, the master of the ceremonies being C. Stevenson, Esq.
Mr. George Stanley, mason, of Warwick, laid the first brick of the first house erected at new Leamington, 8th October, 1808. This first house was built by Mr. Frost, of Warwick, and stands at the corner of Upper Cross-street, opposite the assembly rooms; in honour of him there is now a street bears his name, (Frost-street.)
_The Theatre._
This neat building, upon a diminutive scale, was erected in 1814, immediately in front of the Bath hotel, the exterior appears to be coated with Parker's cement, and the interior is ornamented with views of Leamington, Warwick, Guy's Clift, &c, and fitted up with some taste.
_The Post Office._
This necessary and convenient place for all descriptions of people to resort to, is situated about two hundred yards east of the church, where there are gardens, kept in neat order, for the accommodation of those who wait with impatience for their letters; or they may promenade from the office to Gordon house.
_Ranelagh Gardens_
Are regularly improved every season, and with their various amusements, are deserving of attention.
_The Church_
Is an ancient pile of building, dedicated to All Saints, which, from the great influx of visitors, being found too small for their accommodation, an entire new wing was constructed in 1816, and it still requires to be farther extended, or a new one erected. A moderate subscription from the wealthy visitors would do much towards it. The officiating minister, the Rev. E. Trotman, is only engaged to do single duty on a Sunday, but to accommodate the visitors, he performs a second entire service, and to remunerate him for his attention, subscription books are opened. During the season of 1818, another hotel was begun, upon which twenty thousand pounds being appropriated to the completion of it, is a sum sufficient to render it equal to any other house of entertainment in the kingdom.
An elegant suite of rooms have recently been opened, entitled the Apollo, where assemblies were held every fortnight, during winter. Boarding houses are continually opening every week, and in every quarter of the town there are good houses in a state of forwardness, against the present season.
_A Hint from the Editor_.
From the rapid manner in which the buildings encrease at Leamington, it is evident that there is a superabundance of money, and as soft water is a scarce article within the town, could not a portion of that superfluous money be advantageously employed in conveying that useful and necessary article to the respective houses, by means of a steam engine, there being a powerful spring at no great distance?
_To Meriden, twelve miles, on the road to Coventry._
You proceed through Deritend and Bordesley, when you take the left hand road, and having crossed the Warwick canal, the ruins of Bordesley house are in full view; they having continued in that state ever since the year 1791, when the house was demolished by an infuriated mob. The land by which it is surrounded has been parcelled out, and advertised to be let for building. On the left is a farm-house, denominated the Garrison, from whence there is an extensive view over the town of Birmingham; and on this eminence it is supposed that Oliver Cromwell planted his artillery to overawe the town; but the majority of the inhabitants being favourable to his cause, there was no necessity to make use of it; and what gives weight to this supposition is, that this spot being about one mile and a half from Aston hall, it is very probable that from thence the artillery played upon that mansion, as a ball penetrated into the interior of it. At the distance of three miles and a half, there is a road on the left, which leads to the village of Yardley.
Having passed the four mile stone, you ascend a gently rising hill, and when at the summit a delightful and extensive view presents itself; there being a windmill in the front, and on the left the tower of Sheldon church is seen, and also the steeple of Coleshill church.
_Elmdon Hall._