Chapter 8

A little farther on the right is a simple though tasteful lodge, leading to Heathfield, the elegant mansion of the celebrated James Watt, Esq. who is well known to all scientific men, for the great improvements he has made in steam engines, and various other useful works. A few years back, the adjacent ground was a wild and dreary waste, but it now exhibits all the beauty and luxuriance that art assisted by taste can give it. Woods and groves appear to have started up at command, and it may now vie with any seat in the neighbourhood, for rural elegance and picturesque beauty. Descending the hill, the parish church of Handsworth presents itself to view, and a short distance before you arrive at it, is the parsonage-house, where the Rev. Lane Freer resides.--It is a very excellent house, and possesses more conveniences and luxuries than are usually to be met with in the habitations of the clergy. About a mile farther on the right is the elegant residence of N. G. Clarke, Esq. one of the king's counsel; a gentleman highly distinguished for acuteness and perspicuity in his profession, and thorough hospitality in his house. Still farther on the left, as you descend a steep hill, there is a fine view, at a considerable distance, of the domains of Hamstead hall. It is a very elegant and modern-built mansion, the old one having been taken down some years since, which was for many generations the seat of the ancient and respectable family of the Wyrleys, who possessed the manor and very large property in this parish. On the demise of the late John Wyrley, Esq. the whole of this estate was left by will to George Birch, Esq. at whose decease it devolved upon his only son, the present Wyrley Birch, Esq. It is difficult to conceive a more beautiful residence than this, as it contains all that hill and dale, wood and water, aided by extensive views, can do, to make a place delightful and desirable: these seem here to have been combined in the most beautiful manner; for the river Tame meanders through this enchanting and extensive domain; on whose banks are numerous groves of trees, and from a solid rock there arises a lime tree, of unusual magnitude, whose branches spreading in an horizontal direction became so heavy, and injured the trunk to such a degree, that in order to preserve the body, it not only became necessary to lop off the principal branches, but to bind it together with iron in different ways, by hooping of it, and passing a bar of iron through it, in the same manner as buildings are frequently done, to preserve them. At the height of three feet, it girths twenty-three feet and rises to the height of seventy feet. The rock upon which this tree grows, is of such a nature, that there is a grotto of considerable size cut in it, wherein the roots from this tree spread themselves in different directions. This inestimable estate, although for so many generations the patrimonial possessions of the family, has been lately transferred by the proprietor to the Earl of Dartmouth, and is now in the possession of William Wallis, Esq.

In the valley is a corn mill, worked by the river Tame, over which there is a substantial bridge. Near the summit of the opposite hill, the road passes close by the residence of Mr. Wren, who is well known in Staffordshire, as an agriculturist. Near half a mile farther on the left is an ancient white house, which has been occupied as a school for a number of years. From the green opposite, if you face about, there is an extensive view over the country; two of the Birmingham churches and the monument being conspicuous objects. A very short distance farther is a gravel pit, opposite to which is a rich and luxuriant view for a considerable distance. At the finger post, two miles before you arrive at Walsall, there is a beautiful landscape, and when you approach near the town, by looking the contrary way, there is a rich and variegated view over the country. A little before you enter the town, there are two respectable houses, one on each side of the road; that on the left is the residence of Mr. Richard Jesson, an attorney, and at the other, which is built of stone, Mr. John Adams, a merchant, resides.

This road to Stafford is nearer by five miles than going through Wolverhampton, and the accommodations are in every respect equal: independant of that circumstance, whoever travels this road is not incommoded by the numerous colleries and engines that are adjacent to the other.

_Walsall_.

This town, being considered a borough, by prescription for a number of years, was incorporated by letters patent, bearing date 22d February, in the 13th year of King Charles 2d; the government thereof is vested in a mayor, with the assistance of twenty-four capital burgesses, who are authorised to sue and are liable to be sued, by virtue of a common seal. William Webb was appointed the first mayor, whose successor is to be elected and sworn into office on the feast of St. Michael. The mayor and his brethren are authorised to fix upon a recorder and town clerk, who are empowered to hold a court of record, whenever it is requisite, to determine any actions or pleas, for sums of money exceeding forty shillings, and not more than twenty pounds. There are also two serjeants at mace, who are under their directions; the late mayor, and one other capital burgess, being in the commission of the peace for the borough and foreign, they have authority to take cognizance of all crimes committed within their jurisdiction, except conspiracy, murder, felony, or any thing touching the loss of life. They are also empowered to have a common prison, where all offenders may be detained, until discharged by due course of law. By this charter, the mayor, recorder, and twenty-four capital burgesses are exempt from serving upon any juries at Stafford.

The seal of this corporation is three fleur de lis and three lions quarterly, with two lions as supporters; over the arms is a crown without an arch, and over the rim of the crown there are five fleur de lis. It is nearly the size of a crown piece, with a latin inscription, in very ancient characters. It is deposited with Joseph Stubbs, who is town clerk, and steward of the manor to Lord Bradford. The arms of the town appear to be a bear with a ragged staff.

The guildhall is situated in the High-street, one wing of which is the Dragon inn, and the other is a large room where the corporation assemble to transact business, and is called the mayor's parlour, under which is the prison for the town.

The ancient wooden staves belonging to the corporation are still deposited in the hall, and are curious relics of antiquity, being ornamented with heads of various animals, rudely carved.

The sheriff of the county, by his deputy, holds a court in this town, at the Castle inn, every third Monday, for the recovery of debts, under forty shillings; but the expenses are excessive to both debtor and creditor, and if the latter loses his cause, his expenses alone will amount to six or seven pounds.

In the year 1452, Thomas Mosely, of Moxhull, in Warwickshire, being then lord of Bascote, in that county, gave it in trust to William Lyle and Thomas Magot, for the use of the town of Walsall. In 1539, the inhabitants were summoned by the bellman to repair to the church, where a dole was distributed, amounting to the sum of seven pounds, ten shillings, and nine-pence. Some time after, an attempt was made to discontinue this dole, which caused the populace to assemble, who forced the same to be continued; at which time it was distributed to about fourteen thousand people, nine thousand of whom were supposed to reside in Walsall.

The church is a vicarage, dedicated to St. Matthew, or All Saints: it is an ancient pile of building, singular in its appearance, being in the form of a cross, the transept of which is composed by large side chapels, whose roofs lie east and west, parallel to the body of the church. The tower, which is situated at the south-west angle of the west front, is strong, plain, and far from inelegant, being built with coarse lime stone, on which a new spire was erected since 1775, when a set of eight musical bells were fixed there, by Mr. Rudhall, of Glocester; the weight of the tenor being more than twenty-three hundred, and the key note E flat.

The following inscriptions are round the bells:--

1. "When us you ring, we'll sweetly sing."

2. "Fear God, honour the king."

3. "Prosperity to the parish."

4. ditto ditto.

5. "The Rev. John Darwall, vicar."

6. "Thomas Rudhall, Glocester, founder."

7. "Thomas Hector, Edward Licet, Thomas Overton, Deykin Hemming, church-wardens."

8. "I to the church the living call, And to the grave do summon all."

The font of this church is alabaster, of an octagon form, with shields, richly sculptured.

On each side of the chancel are eleven stalls, very entire, the seats of which, being lifted up, exhibit a series of grotesque figures, curiously carved, in bas relief; no two of which resemble each other. Over the communion table is a large painting, representing the last supper.--The vicarage, where the Rev. Philip Pratt resides, is in a delightful situation, being on an eminence, and encompassed with lofty and majestic trees.

There are three fairs in the year, viz. February 24th, Tuesday in the whitsun week, and the Tuesday before St. Michael; at which time the races take place, and have been for a number of years both numerously and genteely attended; as a proof of it, the inhabitants in the year 1809 expended the sum of thirteen hundred pounds in the erection of a grand stand; in the lower apartments of which is a billiard table, where they resort for recreation. The fair at whitsuntide is not held by charter, but being market day, at that holiday time is considered a fair by prescription. There is in this town a charity school for twenty-four boys and sixteen girls, who are all cloathed in blue: they are instructed and cloathed gratis, but neither lodged nor boarded. The expenses attending this school are defrayed by subscriptions, donations, and sermons preached on the wake Sunday, which is the Sunday before St. Michael. The school-room is near the George hotel. There is also a free grammar school, near the church, founded by Queen Mary, in the first year of her reign, which she endowed with certain lands that are vested in trustees. The High-street is spacious, and therein are some respectable shops, and a conduit for the use of the inhabitants.--Park-street is also a wide one, but there are numerous low houses in it.

The town has a singular appearance; its situation being upon a bold eminence, from whose summit arises a fine old gothic church, with a lofty spire, the streets and houses descending in every direction. In the vicinity are numerous lime stone quarries, some of which are open from the surface, and from others it is drawn up through a shaft, similar to coal mines.

Mr. Siddons, the husband of the celebrated actress, was born in Rushall-street, in this town, whilst his father kept a public-house, known by the sign of the London apprentice, whose death was occasioned by sparring or wrestling with a person named Denston. The present Mr. Siddons was originally a barber, but having an inclination for the stage, he joined the itinerant company of Mr. Kemble, and married one of his daughters, who afterwards proved the heroine of the stage. Another well-known character was also a native of this town, viz, Thomas Haskey, the celebrated ventriloquist, who was by trade a bridle bit maker; but whilst an apprentice he left his master, and entered into the army, where he lost a leg and obtained a pension. When young, he did not know the abilities he possessed, but hearing O'Burn, he endeavoured to imitate him; and when Mr. Stanton's company of performers were at Walsall, he repeatedly from the gallery entertained the audience by sham dialogues, in two voices, between himself and Tommy. He was an ignorant man, but possessing this unusual faculty, he was frequently sent for by Lord Dudley, to entertain the company at Himley, upon which occasions, he always hired a post chaise to convey him there. He afterwards went to London, and performed at Sadler's Wells in the year 1796, and when his benefit came on, he cleared £200.

About one mile from the town, on the road to Wolverhampton, is a strong chalybeate water, called Alum well.

About one mile and a half from Walsall, near to Bentley hall, at a place called Pouck hill, as some workmen were opening a quarry, they discovered numerous basaltic columns, some of which are from four to five feet in diameter, of various lengths, some singularly waved, others straight; some of the joints short and others extend to the length of five or six feet: they lie nearly in an horizontal position, and resemble at a distance large trees piled one upon another.

The chief articles manufactured in this town and its vicinity are bridle bitts, stirrups, spurs and other articles either used or sold by the saddlers.

_Barr Park, distant five miles, on the road to Walsall_.

The hospitable mansion of Sir Joseph Scott, Bart, is surrounded by a park of considerable extent, wherein there is the greatest variety of undulating hills and dales, wood and water, together with such extensive views, as can only be found in this part of the kingdom. To this park there are three entrances, and at every avenue the worthy proprietor has erected an elegant lodge, from whence there are capacious carriage roads to the mansion. One of these lodges is about five miles on the road to Walsall, to which you approach by taking the right hand road, opposite a house of entertainment, the Scott's arms, and then taking the second turning to the left conducts you to the lodge. On entering the park, a circular coach drive leads to the holly wood, through which you proceed by a serpentine road near half a mile, when a beautiful sheet of water presents itself to view, along whose banks you pass near a mile before you arrive at the mansion.

The situation of the building is low in front of the water, but being screened by rising ground and lofty trees, it must be very warm in the winter. On the left of the house, a walk leads you to the flower garden, which is laid out with great taste, containing flowers and small shrubs of the choicest and rarest kinds, together with a fountain in the centre. From hence there are delightful views, and among others over the adjacent country, Birmingham is distinctly seen. At the distance of about two miles farther, towards Walsall, there is another lodge, which is the entrance from Walsall, and leads you by a spacious serpentine road through the Marrian wood, which is composed of various shrubs and evergreens, and conducts you to a most elegant chapel, with a beautiful and well-proportioned spire, underneath which you enter into one of the most sumptuous places of worship in the universe. There are in the whole eleven lofty windows, and seven of them are ornamented in the most elegant manner with stained glass, by Eginton: they are all full length figures, large as life, with their proper attributes. The first represents Fortitude, the second Temperance, the third Justice, in the fourth, which is over the communion table, is the apotheosis of a child, after the Rev. Mr. Peters, the fifth represents Hope, the sixth Charity, and the seventh Prudence. The pews and every other part correspond, there being a sumptuous organ, with a gallery in front of it, which extends on each side, before two windows. In a spacious cemetary there are some tombs, much more elegant than are usually met with; there is also a yew tree of large dimensions, which is grown much higher than trees of that species do in general, and also some venerable elms, together with the village school. Close adjoining is another lodge, and the road from it conducts you over an elegant bridge, on the right of which is a cascade.

There is also another lodge, at a place called the Quieslet, about six miles on the road to Barr-beacon, where a spacious road conducts you for a considerable distance, by a plantation of oaks, and so through the park, wherein there are fixed numerous seats, which command delightful and comprehensive prospects, and among others may be seen the extensive sheet of water in the vale, backed by a grand screen of venerable oaks and verdant hills; at same time, from amidst the nearer trees and shrubs, the house appears to emerge, and adds considerably to the scene. From the various knolls with which this park abounds, there are several that command a view of Birmingham, and also of the woods in Sandwell park.

There is also a view of the ruins of Dudley castle, and from another eminence the churches of Wolverhampton and Wednesbury are seen, with the elegant spire of Barr chapel in front. From the lodge at the approach from Walsall there is an extensive view over the country, bounded in the horizon, to the left by Dudley castle, the Rowley hills, &c. and to the right by the Wrekin and other mountains in Shropshire.

_To Dudley, in Worcestershire, through West-bromwich, ten miles on the road to Stourbridge_.

You proceed down Snowhill, pass by the Soho, through Handsworth and West-bromwich, and along the Wolverhampton road, near six miles, when the road divides, and you take to the left, having the ruins of Dudley castle full in view. After crossing the Birmingham canal, you come to _Tipton, eight miles_.

In this parish the following works are carried on in an extensive manner:--

Blair and Stevenson, soap and lead. Harrison, Oliver, and Co. Horsley iron-works. Walker and Co. Gospel-oak iron-works. Dixon, Turton, and Co. have three furnaces. Round, Caddick, and Co. Old church forge. Messrs. Parkers, iron-masters. Zephaniah Parkes and Co. iron-masters. Messrs. Willets, iron-masters. Birmingham Co. iron-masters. Bagnall and Co. iron-masters. Moat colliery. Horsley ditto. New Church ditto. Tibbington ditto. Glebe Land ditto. Ockerhill ditto. Puppy Green ditto. Dudley Port ditto. Birmingham Co. ditto. Brookhouse ditto.

The church is dedicated to St. Lawrence, of which the Rev. James Bevan is perpetual curate. From hence you pass by the Dudley brewery, and having ascended the hill, arrive at _Dudley, ten miles_.

In this town there are two parish churches, one of which is dedicated to St. Thomas, and is now rebuilding in a magnificent manner, to which a lofty spire is attached; it being in height 170 feet, and therein are ten musical bells: of this church the Rev. Luke Booker, L.L.D. is vicar. The other is dedicated to St. Edmund, wherein a free gallery has been erected by subscription; over which the Rev. Proctor Robinson presides.

The different sects of presbyterians, baptists, quakers, methodists, and independants, have each of them their respective places of worship.

There is a free school, founded by King Edward 6th, two national schools, on the plan of Dr. Bell, and one Lancasterian ditto. The inhabitants who have a taste for reading, have established a library, wherein there are more than three thousand volumes.

There are here five glass houses, two of which belong to Messrs. T. and G. Hawkes, where the most superb articles are manufactured; another to Mr. John Roughton; a fourth to Price, Cook, Wood, and Co.; and the fifth is at Holly-hall, belonging to Zephaniah Parkes and Co.

There are also the following iron-works established:--

Zephaniah Parkes and Co. Messrs. Attwoods, three furnaces. Glazebrook and Whitehouse. Salisbury, Hawkes, and Co. ---- Banks. Wainwright, Jones, and Co.

At the priory, there is a powerful steam engine, belonging to Mr. Benson; and on the road to Birmingham is a brewery, belonging to a public company. In the environs are numerous mines of coal, ironstone, and lime; which land, where the mines have not been worked, sells in general for about one thousand pounds per acre.--Nails and heavy iron-work employ a great part of the population.

The ancient castle, of which there still remains the keep and the gateway, is said to have been erected about the year 700, by a person named Dodo, from whom the name of the town is derived. Underneath the hill, whereon the castle was situated, there are stupendous caverns, from whence the lime stone has been conveyed away, which are truly august, being of considerable extent, and proportionably high; the roof being supported by rude pillars of vast dimensions, which have been left by the miners for that purpose. There is one tunnel that perforates the hill entirely, being in length near two miles: it is in height thirteen feet, in width nine feet, and in one part sixty-four feet below the surface.

These enormous subterranean works, with the method of procuring the stone, are highly deserving the attention of strangers, who have there an opportunity of seeing this useful article forced from its natural situation by means of gunpowder; raised from the bowels of the earth, and conveyed through the country by means of inland navigation, to serve the purpose of the agriculturist, and also the architect. In these rocks there are numerous marine productions, and among others, one which the miners denominate a locust, for which they have been known to refuse its weight in gold; it being understood that there is only one other place in the kingdom where they are to be found. The mines of coal in this vicinity are from ten to twelve yards in thickness, which circumstance it is said does not take place in any other part of the kingdom. A stranger approaching Dudley after it is dark, will be astonished to see the numerous fires in different directions, which proceed from the furnaces, forges, and collieries; the latter converting their small coal into coke.

The noble proprietor of these extensive mines and the ruins above them has for several successive years planted innumerable trees of different kinds around the castle hill, and during last summer (1818) he caused avenues to be cut through them, which form the most romantic, picturesque, and diversified shady walks, extending over numerous hills and dales, that can be imagined; the views that occasionally present themselves when least expected, are enchanting, and when you arrive at the summit, there is a most extensive prospect over the counties of Worcester, Stafford, Derby, Leicester, Warwick, Salop, Hereford, and part of Wales: it is not only extensive, but full of variety, comprising hills and dales, woods and villages, populous towns, and busy seats of manufacture; a scene that may be justly termed, of various view, warm and alive with human habitations.--From this eminence eighteen churches are discernable; viz, those of Dudley, Birmingham, West-bromwich, Walsall, Rushall, Wednesbury, Darlaston, Tipton, Bilston, Wednesfield, Wolverhampton, Sedgley, Briery-hill, Oldswinford, and Pedmore; also the fine obelisk and castle at Hagley; the elegant seat of Lord Westcote; Envil, the admired seat of Lord Stamford; and part of the woods at Himley, the spacious and beautiful seat of the humane, generous, and noble proprietor of these ruins. The stupendous mountains of Malvern (though near forty miles distant), bounding the horizon towards the south, are grand and noble features in the scene; as are also those of Clent, Abberley, the Cleys, and the Wrekin;

"Mountains, on whose barren breast The lab'ring clouds do often rest."

_To Dudley, in Worcestershire, through Oldbury, distant_ _nine miles._

Having passed the Sand-pits and Spring-hill, you cross the Birmingham canal and enter upon what was Birmingham heath, which being inclosed in the year 1800, was found to contain 289 acres, which land now lets from thirty to fifty shillings per acre.