Chapter 11

The seat of A. Spooner Lillingston, Esq. is an elegant modern pile of building, on the right of the road, at the distance of six miles. It is situate in an extensive lawn, interspersed with shrubberies, from whence there are variegated and extensive prospects, the churches of Birmingham, Solihull, and Yardley being distinctly seen, backed by Barr-beacon, the Rowley hills, &c. and withoutside of the lawn the spire of Coleshill church is a pleasing object. The church, which is a neat stone building, was erected by Abraham Spooner, Esq. the entrance is under the tower, which admits of exhibiting to great advantage, an elegant window composed entirely of stained glass. In the centre is a representation of the last supper, delicately executed in a circle, about nine inches in diameter, date 1532. There are also three ovals, representing Faith, Hope, and Charity, executed in a masterly manner, apparently about the same period. There is also a neat organ, of a size suitable to the place.

At a short distance farther, there is on the right a church upon an eminence, with a delicate spire, at a place called Church Bickenhill; and a short distance beyond is an extensive and variegated prospect, with Coleshill church on the left. Having crossed the river Cole at Stonebridge, at the distance of half a mile on the left is Packington hall, the seat of the Earl of Aylesford, which is a substantial modern stone building, situated in a park, wherein are some of the most noble oak trees that are to be found in the kingdom. There are also numerous sheets of water, and the church, which was erected by the late Earl, after a plan of Bonomi's, which is an immense arch, both interior and exterior, after the manner of the Italians, and is nearly in the centre of the park. The organ was made by order of Handel, and presented by him to the late Earl; it being esteemed a very fine toned one.--The altar-piece represents angels paying adoration to the Saviour, and is painted in a masterly style by Rigaud.

The archery ground made use of by the woodmen of Ardeu is bounded by a plantation on the left of the road, about one mile before you arrive at Meriden. The members of this society hold several meetings each summer, when they shoot for various prizes. On the ground there is an elegant building erected, where the members dine, or take refreshment, and at other times it serves as a general deposit for their bows and arrows. This is almost the only society of woodmen now in the kingdom. At Meriden there is a commodious inn, adjacent to which are delightful gardens, and the accommodation for travellers are excellent.

_To Sutton, distant eight miles, on the road to Lichfield._

You leave Birmingham, through Aston-street and the adjacent buildings in the parish of Aston, which extend for a considerable distance along the road. Having passed the buildings, you soon after cross a small stream of water, that has performed its office of turning a corn mill, which you perceive on your left hand. This mill was within memory a forge, for the making of bar iron.--There is another mill upon the same stream, a short distance above, known by the name of Aston furnace, which was a blast furnace for the purpose of making pig iron to supply the forge below, and must have been made use of as such for a prodigious number of years, the slag or refuse from it forming an immense heap only a few years back, which has been conveyed away to make and repair the roads, and in some instances to erect buildings.[9] This mill has been considerably enlarged, and a steam engine erected contiguous to it, and is now used as a paper mill. From an adjacent hill there is a good view over the town of Birmingham.

[Footnote 9: See Hockley abbey, on the road to Wolverhampton.]

A lofty brick wall now presents itself to view, by which the park belonging to Aston hall is surrounded: it being by computation three miles in circumference; within which there is a great abundance of valuable timber, and it is also well stocked with deer. When the wall recedes from the high road, keep by the side of it, which leads you to the parish church, and also to the mansion house or hall, which is a brick building, erected by Sir Thomas Holt, about the year 1636, at the same time that he enclosed the park. He also erected alms houses, for five men and five women, which he endowed, with eighty-eight pounds per annum, out of the manor of Erdington. The hall has of late years been in the possession of Heneage Legge, Esq. but is at present unoccupied, and the whole estate is upon sale.[10]

[Footnote 10: Since writing the above, the mansion of Aston, together with the park, has been purchased by Messrs. Greenway and Whitehead, of Warwick, who have converted the house into two tenements, disposed of the deer, turned the park into enclosures, and fallen the timber.]

The church which is dedicated to St. Peter and Paul, is a stone building, with a lofty spire, and contains several monuments of the Holt family; it is also ornamented with two windows of stained glass, by Eginton. In the church-yard there is a remarkable grave stone, which is fixed east and west.[11] The present incumbant is the Rev. Benjamin Spencer, L.L.D.

Sir Lister Holt, the late proprietor of this estate, not having any children, and being at variance with his only brother, (who succeeded to the title), he entailed the estate upon four different families, none of whom had or are likely to have any children, although they have been in possession of it for the space of near forty years.

[Footnote 11: It is a thick stone, about two foot in height, on which is the following inscription:--

EAST SIDE;

HERE LIETH THE BODY OF REBECKAH PEMBORTON WIF OF ISAAC PEMBORTON BVRI 27 OF DECEM 1660

HERE LIETH THE BODY OF ISAAC PEM- BERTON HE DEPARTED DECEM 4: 1697 AGED 76

WEST SIDE.

THO I AM HERE LAID LOW IN GRAVE THINK ON THE COVNSEL WICH I GAVE THO TRO VNLES MAY TO Y DECEND: A GRAC LOVS BLESSIN IN THE END

THE FIRST STONE SET VP IN THIS YARD THO OTHERS SINCE MORE FINLY CARVED WAS IN REMEMBERANCE OF SHE AN OBJECT OF MORTALITY]

Returning into the main road, you perceive on the left a double row of lofty elms, that extend about half a mile; and at the termination of the vista, Aston hall and the lofty spire of the church produce a grand effect. On the right there is a sheet of water that turns a mill for the use of the Birmingham manufacturers. You soon after cross Salford bridge, to the right of which is an aqueduct that conveys the Birmingham canal over the river Tame. The village of Erdington does not contain any object deserving of attention, but a little beyond on the right is Pipe hall, an ancient seat of the Bagot family, now occupied by the Rev. Egerton Bagot.

In the vicinity there are several neat houses, which are chiefly inhabited by wealthy people, who have retired from Birmingham. A short distance from hence Mary Ashford was found drowned on the 27th May, 1817.

About the fifth mile stone, the eye is gratified on the left with an extensive view over the country, which continually varies for a considerable distance, until a most beautiful and picturesque landscape presents itself; a white house belonging to a mill and an extensive sheet of water being in front, Barr-beacon in the back ground, and the woods in Sutton park on the right.

_Sutton Coldfield._

This remarkably neat and clean town is situated about midway between the town of Birmingham and the city of Lichfield; lying south from the latter place, its name is supposed to be derived from South Town, and by corruption, Sutton. There is a very considerable portion of land near this town, where travellers say the air is equally sharp and cold as it is upon the highlands of Scotland, and from this circumstance the latter part of its name originates. Independant of this tract of land, there is another contiguous to it, which is denominated the park, wherein a part of the Roman road, called Icknield Street, still remains perfect; there is also a spring called Rounton well, whose water is remarkably cold and produces a very copious stream, to which numerous people who are afflicted with cutaneous disorders resort, and derive considerable benefit from drinking and bathing therein. It cures the most virulent itch in the human species, and also the mange in dogs, if sufficient care is taken to wash them well in the stream, but a slight washing will not produce the desired effect.

The church is an ancient stone building, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and the present rector is the Rev. John Riland, who is also patron of the living. Within the church there is an organ, and some monuments deserving of attention; there are also three vaults, two of which having been opened, the coffins and their contents were mouldered into dust, although they had been deposited there within the memory of man.

This town was incorporated by the eighth Henry, at the solicitation of Vesey, bishop of Exeter, who was his chancellor, and a native of this place. It is denominated a corporate body, by the name of the warden and society of the king's town of Sutton Coldfield, and consists of twenty-four members besides the warden, with a grant to them of the whole manor and lordship of the parish, together with a tract of waste ground, called the park, containing about 3500 acres, wherein is great abundance of valuable timber, on condition of paying into the exchequer a fee farm rent of fifty-eight pounds per annum.

The said Bishop Vesey erected fifty-one stone houses in the parish and also a free grammar school, which he liberally endowed with land, and ordained by the statutes, that the master should be a layman, which is strictly adhered to. He also procured for the inhabitants a market, and the extraordinary privilege that every person who erected a house in Sutton, should be entitled to sixty acres of land in the park.

Here are two fairs annually, for horses, neat cattle, and sheep; the one on Trinity Monday and the other on the 8th of November; when, for every horse that is sold, a toll must be paid of four-pence, and a reputable voucher produced by the person who sells it; the marks and age of the animal being registered. By the same charter, the inhabitants of Sutton are exempt from toll in all fairs and markets. The deputy steward or town clerk holds a court of record every three weeks, for the trial of civil actions, and holds to bail for forty shillings and upwards.

Sessions, court leet, and other customary courts are held, and the charter expressly says, that they shall have and exercise as much privilege and power as the city of Coventry; but this they do not practise, for they commit felons to the county gaol. Every inhabitant is a landed man, which is drawn by ballot every four years; and no county officer can enter this franchise, to arrest, &c. without especial license.

The town of Sutton is seated on such an eminence, that although there are fourteen large pools of water within the parish, and some of them very extensive, there is not the smallest stream runs into it; the town being supplied with water by springs within it. The air is very salubrious, the water in general soft, the situation delightfully pleasant, the neighbourhood genteel, and accommodations in general very excellent. In the vicinity is Four-oaks hall, the seat of Sir E.C. Hartopp; Moor hall, the residence of ---- Hacket, Esq. and Ashfurlonghouse, which is at present unoccupied.

_To Halesowen, seven miles, on the road to Hagley, Stourbridge and Kidderminster._

You proceed up Broad-street and Islington, through the five ways toll-gate; when the road inclining to the right, there is a double range of respectable houses, denominated Hagley-row, which have been erected by the opulent inhabitants of Birmingham; where they not only enjoy fresh air, but the parochial taxes of Edgbaston do not bear any proportion with those of Birmingham. On the right hand is an observatory, a lofty brick building, seven stories high, which bears the name of the Monument: it was erected by John Perrot, Esq. about the year 1758, from whence there is an extensive view over the adjacent country in every direction. The house adjourning is the residence of John Guest, Esq. Having passed the one mile stone, the admirer of nature will proceed with solemn pace and slow, every step he takes varying the scene; one object being lost to view, which is succeeded by another equally beautiful. On the left there is an extensive and picturesque prospect, which continues without interruption for a considerable distance; and when the scene closes on that side, turn your eyes to the right, where there is a landscape equally fine; which, over the inclosures, takes in Smethwick, with Shireland hall in the front. A very short distance farther on the left there is an extensive and variegated landscape, with a house called the Ravenhurst in full view; the prospect being bounded by Bromsgrove Lickey and Frankley Beeches. At the three mile stone is the Lightwoods, a neat brick house, the property and residence of Miss Grundy, from whence there are some enchanting prospects. In these woods there are small shrubs grow in great abundance, which produce black fruit, known by the name of bilberries, of which during some years the poor people make a plentiful harvest.--Ascending the hill there is a delightful view over the enclosures, commanding the villages of Harborne and King's Norton; the two parish churches being conspicuous objects. From the Beech-lane there is a fine view, having the hills of Clent and Cofton in the distance.

At a place called the Quinton, near the five mile stone, there is a grand prospect, and from this eminence there arise two springs, one of which flows into the Severn and the other into the Trent. On the left is Belle Vue, the residence of James Male, Esq. from whence, as its name imports, there is a grand panoramic view of the country, that fills the mind with the most sublime ideas, such as cannot be described either by pen or pencil. In descending the hill opposite some cottages, there is a road leading to _The Leasowes._

Wherein the inimitable Shenstone took so much delight, and decorated in such a manner, that in his days they were spoken of and resorted to by all people of refined taste, who came within a day's ride; and not an individual ever left them without expressions of astonishment at what they had seen and heard from the worthy proprietor, who warbled forth his verses in such a melodious manner, and on such subjects, that delighted every ear, as his diversified shady walks did every eye.

His remains were interred in the church-yard of Halesowen, to whose memory, some years afterwards, a small stone pillar, with an urn on the top of it, was fixed near the vestry door, within the church, but has since been removed within the chancel, to make room for a magnificent marble monument, to the memory of Major Halliday, executed by Banks, for which he received about one thousand pounds; there being on each side of it a figure, large as life; one representing Patience and the other Fortitude.

On the pillar to the memory of Shenstone is the following inscription:--

Whoe'er thou art, with rev'rence tread These sacred mansions of the dead. Not that the monumental bust, Or sumptuous tomb, here guards the dust Of rich, or great,(let wealth, rank, birth, Sleep undistinguished in the earth.) This simple urn records a name, That shines with more exalted fame. Reader! if genius, taste refin'd, A native elegance of mind; If virtue, science, manly sense; If wit that never gave offence; The clearest head, the tend'rest heart, In thy esteem e'er claim'd a part; Ah! smite thy breast, and drop a tear; For know, thy Shenstone's dust lies here,

R.G. and J. HODGETS. A.O.P.

The Leasowes are now in the possession of Matthias Attwood, Esq. and these delightful walks, although their beauties have been curtailed to a considerable degree, by conveying the Netherton canal across the valley, close by them, are still highly deserving the attention of all persons who take delight in rural scenery; and for the accommodation of those who are inclined to meditate and contemplate, numerous seats are affixed, in different directions. Such scenes as these walks afford are very seldom to be met with in any part of England; therefore those who are in pursuit of amusement, will not regret if they devote one day to view them; and as they consist of hill and dale, it will of course cause some fatigue, which may with ease be alleviated, there being close at hand a neat and comfortable house of entertainment, kept by Betty Taylor. The source of the river Stour is in these grounds.

When near the bottom of the hill, the road divides; that on the right leads to Stourbridge, and the other to _Halesowen, in Shropshire._

This place has been considered as a borough, by prescription, from time immemorial, and is supposed to have been represented in parliament at a very early period; but what ancient writings they were in possession of, being (as I am informed), conveyed to London and never returned, they have now none to exhibit. A court leet is held annually, when two officers are appointed, under the appellation of high and low bailiff; but I cannot understand that they enjoy any emolument, or are in possession of any jurisdiction. In the reign of King John, he founded a monastery here, and the church is supposed to have been erected about the same period; it being an ancient building, dedicated to St. John; with a lofty spire. The present incumbent is the Rev. ---- Robinson. Near a mile distant there are still some remains of the monastery, and to the professed antiquary there is probably something deserving of his attention. In digging two holes to fix a gate, a short time since, there was found a considerable quantity of stained glass, in small fragments, some few of which are preserved, as are also some square tiles or quarries, about five inches broad and one thick, with curious devices upon them. It is now denominated the manor farm, and is the property of Lord Lyttleton. Dr. Nash, in his appendix to the history of Worcestershire, gives the following extract from the papers of Bishop Lyttleton.

_Halesowen Abbey._

This ancient structure was situated about half a mile south of the town, on what is now called the manor farm, near the road leading to Northfield. King John, in the 16th year of his reign, granted a charter to Peter de Rupibus, bishop of Winton, by which he gave the manor and advowson of the church of Hales, with its chapels, to found a religious house in this place. In consequence of this grant, a convent of Praemonstratensians was established A.D. 1218, dedicated to the Virgin Mary and St. John the evangelist, and furnished with monks from the abbey of Welbeck, in Nottinghamshire. This religious order were canons, who lived according to the rule of St. Austin, and afterwards reformed by St. Norbet, at Praemonstre, in Picardy. They were called white canons, from their habit; which consisted of a white cossack, with a rotchet over it, a long white cloak, and a white cap. They continued under the jurisdiction of the abbot of Praemonstre, who received contributions from them, till the year 1512, when they were exempted by Pope Julius 2d. The churches and a large proportion of the tythes of Walsall, Wednesbury, Rushall, Clent, and Rowley, were granted to this convent, by successive monarchs, which was also richly endowed by opulent individuals. The abbot and convent held ten large farms in their own hands. In the reign of Henry 8th, the clear income amounted to £380 13s 2d. a large sum, considering the value of money in those days. In 1489, when the whole number of religious amounted only to seventeen, there were every week consumed in bread 20 bushels of wheat and rye. And in the course of the year, 1110 quarters of barley, 60 oxen, 40 sheep, 30 swine, and 24 calves; a proof that great hospitality and charity prevailed here at that time. The monastery consisted of an abbot, prior, sub-prior, sacrist, chanter, cellarer, and custos infirmorum: the monks never exceeded twenty in number.

At the visitations of their superiors, punishments if requisite were inflicted for immoralities. The house and church appear to have been stately edifices; the chancel, if not the whole of the choir, being paved with flat tiles, painted in a curious manner, some of them being now occasionally found; and the few ruins still extant cover an extensive plot of ground, exhibiting fine specimens of Saxon and Gothic architecture.

Several persons of note have been buried in the church, particularly John, Lord Botetourt, baron of Weoleigh castle, near the high altar, under a tomb of alabaster; Sir Hugh Burnell, also baron of Weoleigh; Sir William Lyttleton, of Frankley, and others, about the year 1507.

This monastery was dissolved A.D. 1558, by Henry 8th. The common sigillum, or chapter seal, was in the reign of Henry 4th, a representation of the blessed Virgin, in a sitting posture, with the infant Christ on her left knee, and in her right hand a sceptre. The arms of this abbey were, azure a chevron argent, between three fleur de lis.

The situation of Halesowen is in a deep valley, and the surrounding country presents the most majestic appearance; being diversified with hills and dales in such a manner, that at every step you take new beauties arise, and the scene varies so much, that the eye is unceasingly delighted, without dwelling upon any particular object. This district cannot, properly speaking, be described, either with pen or pencil: the innumerable varieties of similar objects that present themselves to view, must be seen before any person can form the least idea of them.

_To Bromsgrove, in Worcestershire, distant thirteen miles,_ _on the road to Worcester, Glocester, and Bristol._

You proceed up Smallbrook-street, when a spacious road opens to the left, and being clear of the buildings, the spire of King's Norton church, which is six miles distant, forms a pleasing object.

On the left you have a picturesque view of the country, which continues without any intermission nearly the space of three miles. There is in this valley, what is very unusual to be seen in such a situation, a windmill; and as you proceed, there are in the same valley several water mills, that are made use of by the Birmingham manufacturers. This view is skirted by buildings erected on the road to Alcester, and when near the two mile stone, you perceive among the trees, Moseley hall, which is a modern stone building; the residence of Mrs. Taylor. Exactly, opposite, on the right hand, is the parish church of Edgbaston, and also the hall, which is surrounded by a park, wherein are some lofty trees, and an extensive sheet of water. This mansion house, or hall, is now occupied by Edward Johnson, M.D. a person of considerable eminence in his profession.

A short distance beyond the three mile stone the road crosses the Worcester canal; from which bridge, if you look towards Birmingham, there is a rich and variegated landscape, consisting of hill, dale, wood, and water. At the four mile stone there is a most extensive view on each side of the road, and also in front; the spire of King's Norton church, Frankley Beeches, and the Clent hills, being prominent features.