A Cruising Voyage Around the World

Part 9

Chapter 93,968 wordsPublic domain

_Dec. 1._ Yesterday at two in the Afternoon we weigh’d again, with a Breeze at N E. but at five a Gale came up at S S W. and blew very strong with Rain, insomuch that we were forc’d to bear away, and come to an Anchor close under the Island of _Grande_, in fourteen Fathom Water. It rain’d hard all night, but towards morning little Wind. About ten this morning we weigh’d Anchor, and steer’d away S W. At twelve it was calm, and we anchor’d again. Just before we anchor’d, we spy’d a small Vessel close under the Shore, near the West-end of _Grande_. We sent our Boat to examine her, and found it to be the same Brigantine our Boats were aboard of six days before, and from whence I had the Present. I gave the Master an Half-hour Glass, and other small things of little Value, for which he was very thankful.

_Dec. 2._ I wrote a long Letter to my Owners, which Captain _Dover_ and Captain _Courtney_ also underwrote, and gave it the Master of this Brigantine, who promis’d to forward it by the first Conveyance for _Portugal_; so that now I had sent by four Conveyances. At ten this morning we sail’d, Wind at W N W. row’d and tow’d till twelve, and came to an Anchor to the Southward of _Grande_, our Men continuing healthy.

[Sidenote: _Description of Grande._]

_Dec. 3._ Yesterday in the afternoon we sail’d with a brisk Gale of Wind at E by N. At six a clock in the Evening, the S W Point of _Grande_ bore W N W. distant five Leagues. The small Three-_Hummock_ Island without _Grande_, which is seen as you go in both ways to it, bore N E 1/2 N. dist. 5 Ls. the Westermost Point of the Main bore W by S. dist. 9 Ls. from whence we departed for the Island of _Juan Fernandez_. The rest of these 24 hours a good Gale from E by N. to the E S E. This I observ’d when we came from Cape _Frio_ to _Grande_, more than I have yet noted: About 13 Leagues to the Eastward of the Isle of _Grande_ is a high round Rock, a good League without the Land, as it appear’d to us; within it is high mountainous Land, which we are inform’d is the Entrance to _Rio-Janeiro_: and as we came to the Westward, we open’d a sandy Bay with low sandy Land in the middle, and high Land on each side clear to the Points; it’s about 3 Leagues over, and deep. Next to this Bay, as we came to the Westward, open’d another low sandy Bay, not quite so deep, but above twice as wide. The Westermost Point is indifferent high, and full of Trees, which makes the Eastermost Point as we enter’d _Grande_; from whence it runs in West and Northerly about 4 Ls. There is no such Bay to the Eastward as _Rio-Janeiro_ between that and Cape _Frio_. This is a certain Mark not to miss _Grande_, which might easily be done by a Stranger, the Latitude being near the same for 40 Leagues within Cape _Frio_; but _Grande_ lies out near two Points farther Southerly, as you come to it from the Eastward, than any other Land between that and Cape _Frio_. We kept but an indifferent Account of the Ship’s Way from Cape _Frio_, being nothing but fluttering Weather; but the _Portuguese_ Master told me it is not less than 34 Ls. We kept continual Soundings, and had always Ground from one League to ten off the Shore, from 20 to 50 Fathom Water: Very even and gradual Soundings, with soft blue clayish Sand, till we got the Length of _Grande_; then we had harder Ground, mix’d with small Stones and red Sand. The Shore runs hither nearest West.

The Island _Grande_ is remarkable high Land, with a small Notch, and a Tip standing up on one side in the middle of the highest Land, easy to be seen if clear; and there’s a small Island to the Southward without it, which rises in three little Hummocks; the nearest Hummock to the Island _Grande_ is the least. As we came in and out, we saw it, and it appears alike on both sides: there is also a remarkable round white Rock that lies on the Larboard side nearest to _Grande_, between it and the Main at the Entrance going in. On the Starboard side there are several Islands, and the Main is much like Islands, till you get well in. The best way, when you open the Coves that are inhabited on the Starboard side going in, is to get a Pilot to carry you to the watering Cove within _Grande_; otherwise send in a Boat to the fresh-water Cove, which lies round the inner Westermost Point of the Island, and near a League in: the Passage is between small Islands, but room enough and bold; it’s the second Cove under the first high Mount and round, behind the first Point you see when you are in between the two Islands. This is the Cove where we water’d. There are two other Coves very good, with some Shoal-Banks between them, but no Shoal-Ground before we come to this Cove. We sounded all the Passage in, and seldom found less than ten Fathom Water, but had not time to know or sound the rest of the Coves. The Town bears N E. about 3 Ls. dist. from this Cove. The Island of _Grande_ is near about 9 Ls. long high Land, and so is the Main within it. All you see near the Water-side is thick covered with Wood. The Island abounds with Monkeys and other wild Beasts, has plenty of good Timber, Fire-wood, and excellent Water, with Oranges and Lemons, and Guavas growing wild in the Woods. The Necessaries we got from the Town were Rum, Sugar, and Tobacco, which they sell very dear, tho not good to smoke, ’tis so very strong. We had also Fowls and Hogs, but the latter are scarce; Beef and Mutton are cheap, but no great quantity to be had; _Indian_ Corn, Bonanoes, Plantanes, Guavas, Lemons, Oranges, and Pine-Apples they abound with; but have no Bread except Cassado (the same sort as is eaten in our _West-Indies_) which they call _Farana depau_, _i.e._ Bread of Wood. They have no kind of Salleting. We had fine pleasant Weather most of the time we were here, but hot like an Oven, the Sun being right over us. The Winds we did not much observe, because they were little and veerable; but commonly between the North and the East.

We clear’d an ordinary _Portuguese_ here, call’d _Emanuel de Santo_, and shipt another, whose Name was _Emanuel Gonsalves_.

I had _Newhoff’s_[99] Account of _Brazile_ on board, and by all the Enquiry and Observation I could make, found his Description of the Country, its Product and Animals, to be just; particularly of that Monster call’d _Liboya_, or the Roebuck-Serpent, which I enquir’d after, thinking it incredible till the _Portuguese_ Governour told me there are some of them 30 foot long, as big as a Barrel, and devour a Roebuck at once, from whence they had their name. I was also told that one of these Serpents was kill’d near this place a little before our Arrival. Tygers are very plenty here on the Continent, but not so ravenous as those in _India_.

The Product of _Brazile_ is well known to be Red Wood, Sugars, Gold, Tobacco, Whale-Oil, Snuff, and several sorts of Drugs. The _Portuguese_ build their best Ships here: The Country is now become very populous, and the People delight much in Arms, especially about the Gold Mines, where those of all sorts resort, but mostly Negroes and Molattoes. ’Tis

[Sidenote: _Account of Brazile._]

but four years since they would be under no Government, but now they have submitted: some Men of Repute here told me the Mines increase very fast, and that Gold is got much easier at these Mines than in any other Country.

This is all I can affirm from my own Observation concerning this Country, which was discover’d first by the famous _Americus Vespucius_, _Anno_ 1500. when he call’d it _Santa Cruz_; but the _Portuguese_ afterwards nam’d it _Brazile_, from the red Wood of that name which grows here. It’s situate in the Torrid Zone, and extends from the Equinoctial to the Lat. of 28 South. The Extent from East to West is uncertain, therefore I can determine nothing concerning it. The _Portuguese_ divide it into fourteen Districts or Captainships, six of which, being the Northern part, were subdu’d by the _Dutch_ about the Year 1637. and a Peace concluded, allowing it to be call’d _Dutch Brazile_, which extended from North to South about 180 Leagues: And since it is not usual for the _Dutch_ to lose their Settlements abroad, it mayn’t be amiss to give a brief Account how they were outed of this profitable Country. In 1643 the Face of the _Dutch_ Affairs there began to alter for the worse, the Magazines of their _West-India_ Company were exhausted by several Expeditions against _Angola_, &c. and receiving no Supplies from _Holland_ as usual, the great Council at the _Receife_, their Capital in _Brazile_, was forc’d to make use of what was due to the Company, for paying the Garisons and Civil Officers, and by consequence to force their conquer’d Debtors the _Portuguese_ to prompt Payment. This oblig’d the Debtors to borrow Mony at 3 or 4 _per Cnt. per_ Month, which impoverished them so in a little time, that they were neither able to pay Principal nor Interest. The _Portuguese_ immers’d themselves in Debt to the Company, because of their hopes that the Fleets coming from _Portugal_ would quickly subdue the _Dutch_, and pay off all scores. Besides, there happen’d a great Mortality among the _Portuguese_ Negroes, which they purchas’d from the _Dutch_ at 300 Pieces of Eight _per_ head. This compleated their Ruin; which, together with their Hatred to the _Dutch_ on account of Religion, made them resolve on a general Revolt.

The _Dutch_ at the same time were engag’d in a War with _Spain_ at home, and Count _Maurice_,[100] who was Governour of _Dutch Brazile_, was recall’d just in the height of the Plot. The _Dutch_ had several Discoveries of it, and an account of _Portuguese_ Commissions, importing that this Revolt was undertaken for the Honour of God, the Propagation of the Roman Faith, the Service of the King, and common Liberty. They complain’d of this to the _Portuguese_ Government in _Brazile_, who told them they would cultivate a good Correspondence with them, according to the Orders of the King their Master; and wrote so to the _Dutch_ Council, yet still carry’d on the Conspiracy, till at last the Rebellion broke out. The _Dutch_ renew’d their Complaints, but the _Portuguese_ Government deny’d their having any hand in it, till in 1645 they openly invaded the _Dutch_, on pretence at first of appeasing the Revolts of the _Portuguese_ in the _Dutch_ Provinces, according to the Tenour of the Peace; but afterwards when they had got footing, they alledg’d the _Dutch_ had murder’d many of the _Portuguese_ in cool Blood; and then carry’d on the War till 1660, when the _Dutch_ were forc’d to abandon _Brazile_ in the following Conditions: That the Crown of _Portugal_ should pay the States Eight hundred thousand Pounds in Mony or Goods, and that the Places taken on each side in the _East-Indies_ should remain to the present Possessors; and that a free Trade should be allow’d the _Dutch_ in _Portugal_, and at their Settlements in _Africa_ and _Brazile_, without paying any more Custom than the _Portuguese_. But other Agreements have been since made between the two States, and the _Portuguese_ remain in full possession of this fine Country, without allowing the _Dutch_ to trade to it. This they fancy makes them sufficient amends for the Loss of their large Conquests in _India_, taken from them by the _Dutch East-India_ Company; the _Portuguese_ being now the least Traders thither, after enjoying the whole _East-India_ Trade for above one hundred Years.

[Sidenote: _Account of Brazile._]

_Newhoff_, who gave the best Account of _Brazile_ at that time, assigns the following Causes for so easy a Reconquest of it by the _Portuguese_: 1. The _Dutch_ took no care to have sufficient Colonies of their own Natives, nor to keep strong Garisons in the Country. 2. They left the _Portuguese_ in possession of all their Sugar-Mills and Plantations, which hinder’d the _Dutch_ from getting any considerable Footing in the open Country. 3. The Plantations and Sugar-Mills that fell into their hands by Forfeiture or otherwise, they sold at such excessive Rates, and laid such Taxes on the Product, that the _Dutch_ did not care to purchase them. 4. The States of _Holland_, instead of reinforcing the Garisons of _Brazile_, according to Prince _Maurice’s_ Advice, reduc’d them lower, notwithstanding all the Remonstrances of the Company to the contrary; for they were so intent upon their Conquests in the _East-Indies_, that they seem’d willing to be rid of _Brazile_, which is now a vast and populous Country, and employs a great number of large Ships yearly from _Portugal_, who carry home an immense Treasure of Gold, besides all other Commodities of that Country.

Whilst Prince _Maurice_ was in _Brazile_, the _Dutch_ fitted Ships thence for _Chili_, which arriv’d there: but wanted a sufficient Force to withstand the _Spaniard_, while they could be recruited, or gain an Interest amongst the Natives, which they might have easily done, could they have settled, because at that time the _Spaniards_ had not conquer’d the _Indians_ of _Chili_; so the _Dutch_ being too weak, were forc’d to return without effecting any thing. I shall conclude this Head with a brief Account of the Natives of _Brazile_ from _Newhoff_, whose Authority, as I have said already, I found upon Inquiry to be very good. They are divided into several Nations, and speak different Languages. They are generally of a middling Size, well-limb’d, and their Women not ill-featur’d. They are not born black, but become so by the Heat of the Sun. They have black Eyes, black curl’d Hair, and have their Noses made flat when young. They come soon to Maturity, yet generally live to a great Age, without much Sickness; and many _Europeans_ live here to above a hundred Years old, which is ascrib’d to the Goodness of the Climate. The _Portuguese_ cut off such multitudes of ’em, that they perfectly hate that Nation, but were civil enough to the _Dutch_ because they treated them kindly. Such as live next the _Europeans_, wear Shirts of Linen or Callico, and the chief of ’em affect our Apparel; but those within Land go for the most part naked, covering their Privities slightly with Leaves or Grass fasten’d about them with a string, and the Men exceed the Women in Modesty. Their Hutts are built of Stakes, and cover’d with Palm-tree Leaves. Their Dishes and Cups are made of _Calabasses_, being the Shells of a sort of Pompions. Their chief Furniture is Hammocks of Cotton made like Network, and these they fasten to sticks, and use them for Beds; and when they travel, tie them to Trees. The Wives follow their Husbands to War and elsewhere, and carry their Luggage in a Basket, with a Child hung about them in a piece of Callico, a Parrot or an Ape in one hand, and leading a Dog by a string in the other; while the idle Lubber carries nothing but his Arms, which are Bows and Arrows, Darts or Wooden Clubs. They know nothing of Arithmetick, but count their Years by laying by a Chesnut in the Season. Those who inhabit the inland Parts know scarce any thing of Religion; yet they have a sort of Priests, or rather Conjurers, who pretend to foretel what’s to come. They have a Notion of a Supreme Being more excellent than the rest; some reckon this to be Thunder, and others _Ursa Minor_, or some Constellation. They fancy that after Death their Souls are transplanted into Devils, or enjoy all sorts of Pleasures in lovely Fields beyond the Mountains, if they have kill’d and eat many of their Enemies; but those that never did any thing of moment, they say are to be tormented by Devils. These People are much afraid of Apparitions and Spirits, and make Offerings to pacify ’em. Some of ’em are mightily addicted to Sorcery, to revenge themselves upon their Enemies; and they have others who pretend to cure those that are so bewitch’d. The _Castilians_ converted some of ’em, but the _Dutch_ Ministers were more successful, till they were hinder’d by the Revolt of the _Portuguese_. The _Brazilian_ Women are very fruitful, have easy Labour, retire to the Woods where they bring forth alone, and return after washing themselves and their Child; the Husbands lying a bed the first 24 hours, and being treated as if they had endur’d the Pains.[101]

The _Tapoyars_, who inhabit the inland Country on the West, are the most barbarous of the Natives, taller and stronger than the rest, and indeed than most _Europeans_. They wear little Sticks thro their Cheeks and Under-Lips, are Maneaters, and use poison’d Darts and Arrows. They change their Habitations according to the Season, and live chiefly by Hunting and Fishing. Their Kings and Great Men are distinguish’d by the manner of shaving their Crowns, and their long Nails. Their Priests are Sorcerers, make them believe that the Devils appear to ’em in form of Insects, and perform their diabolical Worship in the night, when the Women make a dismal howling, which is their chief Devotion. They allow Polygamy, yet punish Adultery by Death; and when young Women are marriageable, but courted by no body, their Mothers carry ’em to their Princes, who deflower ’em; and this they reckon a great Honour. Some of these People were much civiliz’d by the _Dutch_, and very serviceable

[Sidenote: _Account of the River Amazons._]

to them, but still kept under Subjection to their own Kings. For the extraordinary Animals, Plants, _&c._ of _Brazile_, I refer to _Newhoff_; being sensible that the Descriptions of such things are not my Province, but I thought it convenient to give this Hint for the Diversion of such Readers as may relish it better than a Mariner’s bare Journal.

* * * * *

The River of the _Amazons_ being the Northern Boundary of _Brazile_, I shall describe it here.

According to most Geographers it rises in the Mountains of _Peru_, and is compos’d at first of two Rivers, one of which begins about Lat. 9. S. and the other about 15. The _Sansons_ call the latter _Xauxa_ or _Maranhon_, which communicates its Name to the other. ’Twas call’d _Amazons_, not because of any Nation of Virago’s, who as some fancy are govern’d by a Queen, and have no Commerce with our Sex; but at certain times, when they make an Appointment with the Males of neighbouring Nations, and if they prove with Child, keep the Daughters and send away the Sons, as the _Greeks_ fabled of their _Amazons_. But the true Reason of the Name is, that the _Spaniards_, who first discover’d it, were told of such a terrible barbarous Nation of Women by some of the Natives, on purpose to frighten them, and that they did actually on several places of this River find their Women as fierce and warlike as the Men; it being their Custom to follow their Husbands, _&c._ to War, on purpose to animate them, and to share in their Fate, as we find was antiently practis’d by the Women of _Gaul_, _Germany_, and _Britain_.

But to return to the Course of the River. The _Sansons_[102] give us a Map of it from the Discoveries of _Texeira_, who sail’d up and down the same in 1637, 1638, and 1639. The River, he says, begins at the foot of a Chain of Mountains nam’d _Cordelera_, about 8 or 10 Ls. East of _Quito_ in _Peru_. It runs first from West to East, turns afterwards South; and then after many Windings and Turnings holds its main Course East, till it falls into the _Atlantick_ Sea. Its Fountains and Mouth are very near under the Equator, and the main of its Stream is in the 4th and 5th deg. of S. Lat. The Rivers which fall into it on the North side, rise about one or two deg. N. Lat. and those on the South side, some of them begin in 10, some in 15, and others in the 21 ft of S. Lat. Its Channel from _Junta de los Reyos_ about 60 deg. from its Head, till it is join’d by the River _Maranhon_, is from one to two Leagues in breadth. From thence, say the _Sansons_, ’tis from 3 to 4, but grows larger as it advances towards the _Atlantick_, into which it falls by a Mouth from 50 to 60 Leagues broad, betwixt Cape _Nort_ on the Coast of _Guaiana_, and Cape _Zaparara_ on the Coast of _Brazile_. Its Depth from _Junta de los Reyos_ to _Maranhon_ is from 5 to 10 fathom, from thence to _Rio Negro_ from 12 to 20, and from thence to the Sea from 30 to 50, and sometimes a great deal more. ’Tis always of a good depth near the Shore, and has no Sand-Banks till it come towards the Sea. Its running in a continu’d Descent from West to East, makes the sailing down it very easy; and the East Winds, which last most part of the day, are very commodious for those who sail up this River. From the Fountain to its Mouth ’tis 8 or 900 Leagues in a direct Line, but the Windings and Turnings make it about 1200. Some compute it at 1800, and others 1276; but then they derive its Source from the Lake _Lauricocha_ near _Guanuco_ in _Peru_ about Lat. 10. Authors differ whether this River or _La Plata_ be the greatest, which I shall not take upon me to determine. The Rivers which run into it on the right and left, have their Courses from 100 to 600 Leagues in length, and their Banks are well inhabited by multitudes of People of different Nations, not so barbarous as those of _Brazile_, nor so polite as the Natives of _Peru_. They live chiefly upon Fish, Fruit, Corn and Roots; are all Idolaters, but pay no great Respect to their Idols, nor perform any publick Worship to them, except when they go upon Expeditions.

_Texeira_[103] and his Fellow-Discoverers say, that most of those Countries enjoy a temperate Air, tho in the middle of the Torrid Zone. This is probably owing to the multitude of Rivers with which they are water’d, the East Winds which continue most of the day, the equal Length of the Days and Nights, the great numbers of Forests, and the annual Inundations of the Rivers, which fructify this Country, as that of the _Nile_ does _Egypt_. Their Trees, Fields, and Flowers are verdant all the Year, and the Goodness of the Air prevents their being infested so much with Serpents and other dangerous Insects as _Brazile_ and _Peru_. In the Forests they have Store of excellent Honey, accounted very medicinal. They have Balm good against all Wounds. Their Fruit, Corn, and Roots, are not only in greater plenty, but much

[Sidenote: _Account of the River Amazons._]

better than any where else in _America_. They have vast number of Fish of all sorts in the Rivers and Lakes; and among others, Sea-Cows, which feed on the Banks, and Tortoises of a large Size and delicate Taste. Their Woods abound with Venison, and afford Materials for building the largest Ships. They have many Trees of five or six fathom round in the Trunk, and inexhaustible Stores of Ebony and _Brazile_ Wood, Cocoa, Tobacco, Sugar-Canes, Cotton, a Scarlet Dye call’d _Rocon_, besides Gold and Silver in their Mines and the Sand of their Rivers.

The Nations who inhabit about this and the other Rivers that run into it, are reckon’d by _Sanson_ and others 150, and their Villages so thick in many places, that most of ’em are within Call of one another. Among those People, the _Homagues_ who live towards the Head of this great River, are mostly noted for their Manufactures of Cotton; the _Corosipares_ for their Earthen Ware; the _Surines_ who live betwixt Lat. 5 and 10. and Long. 314 and 316, for their Joyners Work; the _Topinambes_ who live in a great Island of this River, about Lat. 4. and Longit. 320. for their Strength. Their Arms in general are Darts and Javelins, Bows and Arrows, with Targets of Cane or Fish-Skins. They make war upon one another to purchase Slaves for their Drudgery, but otherwise they treat them kindly enough.