Part 37

Altho’ this Place is well known, and has been so frequently describ’d, yet being such a noble Settlement, and a Proof of the Industry of the _Dutch_ in these Parts; I can’t omit giving the following Account of it. The Town lies on the N. W. side of the Island of _Java_, Lat. 5°. 50´´. S. The Time we were here it was not very healthy. The East and West Winds blow all the Year along the Shore, besides the ordinary Land and Sea Winds, which qualifie the Air, and makes it pleasant, otherwise it would be excessive hot. Their Summer begins in _May_, with continual Breezes from the East, and a very clear Sky till the latter End of _October_, or Beginning of _November_, when the Winter begins with hard Rains, which holds sometimes 3 or 4 Days without Intermission. In _December_ the West Winds blow very violently, so that then there’s little Trade on the Coast of _Java_. In _February_ ’tis changeable Weather, with sudden Thunderstorms. In _March_ they begin to sow: _June_ is their pleasantest Month; in _September_ they gather in their Sugar and Rice; and in _October_ they have Plenty of Fruit and Flowers, Plants and Herbs of most Sorts: There’s a large fenny plain Country before the City, but it’s well improv’d by the _Dutch_, and to the Eastward, ’tis very full of Woods and Morasses. The City is four square, with a River running through it, and fortified by a Stone Wall and 22 Bastions. About 10 Years past there was an Earthquake, which broke down part of the Mountains, in the Country, and alter’d the Course of the River, so that the Canals in and about _Batavia_, are not near so commodious as they have been, nor the Entrance into the River so deep, and for want of a strong Current of Water, to keep it open, they are forced to employ a large Engine work’d with Horses, to preserve the Entrance of the River navigable for small Vessels to come into the Canals of the City. It lies on a Bay in and about which there are 17 or 18 Islands, which so break off the Sea, that tho’ the Road is very large, yet it is safe. The Banks of the Canals through the City are fac’d with Stone on both Sides, as far as the Boom, which is shut up every Night, at 9 a Clock, and guarded by Soldiers; there’s Channels cut out of the main River for smaller Vessels, and every one that passes the Boom pays Custom. All the Streets run in a streight Line, most of them being above 30 Foot broad, on each side clear of the Canals, and pav’d next the Houses with Bricks. All the Streets are very well built and inhabited, 15 of which have Canals, and they reckon 56 Bridges on them, most of them made of Stone. The Country Seats and Buildings round the City, are generally neat and well contriv’d with handsom Gardens for Fruit and Flowers, and adorn’d with Springs, Fountains, Statues, _&c._ The vast Quantity of Coco nut Trees, every where afford delightful and profitable Groves. They have fine Structures here, particularly the Cross Church, built of Stone, and the inside very neat. There are 2 other Churches for the _Dutch_, and 2 for the _Portugueze_ Protestants; who are a mixed Breed of People. There is one Church also for the Protestant _Malayans_. The Town-house is built of Brick, in a Square, about the Center of the City; ’tis two lofty Stories high, and very finely built, where all Courts of Advice are held, and all Matters relating to the Civil Government of the City are determin’d, and the Senators and Directors of military Affairs meet. There’s an inner Court inclos’d with a high Wall, and a double Row of Stone Pillars, where the Officers of Justice live. Here are Hospitals, Spin-houses, and Rasp-houses, the same as in _Amsterdam_, with all other publick Buildings, equal to most Cities in _Europe_. The _Chinese_ have also a large Hospital in this City for their Aged and Sick Persons, and manage their Charity so well, that you never see a _Chinese_ look despicable in the street. The _Dutch_ Women have greater Privileges in _India_ than in _Holland_, or any where else; for on slight Occasions they are often divorc’d from their Husbands, and share the Estate betwixt them. A Lawyer told me at _Batavia_, he has known out of 58 Causes, all depending in the Council-Chamber, 52 of them were Divorces. Great Numbers of the Natives, who are Criminals, and not executed after Condemnation, are chain’d by Pairs, and kept at hard Labour under a Guard, perpetually clearing the Canals and Moats round the City, or any other Labour for the publick. Three Leagues West from the Town, is the Island _Unrest_, where all the Company’s Ships are refitted. There are great Magazines of Naval Stores, defended by Platforms of Guns; and the Castle at _Batavia_ is Quadrangular, lies in a Level, and has 4 Bastions and Courtins, fac’d with white Stones, and provided with Watch-houses. In this Castle, or rather Citadel, the _Dutch_ Governour-General, and most of the Members of the Council of _India_, with the other Officers of _Batavia_, have their Residence. The Governour’s Pallace is of Brick, large and well built. In this Pallace is the Council-Chamber, the Secretary’s Office and Chamber of Accounts. The great Hall is hung with bright Armour, Ensigns, Flags, _&c._ taken by the _Dutch_ here. The Governour gives Audience to Strangers who are introduc’d to him by the _Sabandar_, who is chief Custom-master. Here is also a Church within the Castle, and an Armory with Apartments for all the Artificers belonging to the Castle, which has 4 Gates, and all the Avenues well defended, the whole being surrounded with Ditches and the Works well mounted with Brass Cannon, as are the Bastions of the Town with Block-houses within the Walls, so that they can fire upon Mutineers within, as well as upon an Enemy without. The Out-works of the Town, of which there are several every way at 4 Leagues Distance, are made of Earth, surrounded with Ditches and Quick-set Hedges, which render them Arbours for Beauty, and some of them fac’d with Brick. The Garrison on Duty is generally about 1000 strong, and all the Out-works are said to be furnish’d with a good Stock of Provisions as well as the Castle; but the Soldiers are kept much under, except the Governour’s Guards, who have large Privileges, and make a fine Appearance. The Governour-General lives in as great Splendor as a King; he has a Train and Guards, having a Troop of Horse, and a Company of Foot, with Halberds, in Liveries of yellow Satin, richly adorn’d with Silver Laces and Fringes, to attend his Coach when he goes abroad. The Guards are as well equipp’d as most Princes in _Europe_: His Lady has also her Guards and Train. He is chosen but for 3 Years, out of the 24 Counsellors call’d Rads of _India_, 12 of whom must always reside in the City. The _Chinese_ have the greatest Trade here, farm most of the Excise and Customs, live according to their own Laws and idolatrous Worship, and have a Chief that manages their Affairs with the Company, who allow them great Privileges, and particularly a Representative in Council, who has a Vote when any _Chinese_ is tried for Life: But these Privileges are allow’d only to such _Chinese_ as inhabit here, for others are not admitted to stay above 6 Months in the Town, or on the Island _Java_. The other Strangers, who inhabit here, besides _Europeans_, are _Malayans_, with some People from most part of _India_. The _Javanese_, or ancient Natives are numerous, and said to be barbarous and proud, of a dark Colour, with flat Faces, thin short black Hair, large Eye-brows and Cheeks. The Men are strong limb’d, but the Women small; the former have a Wrapper of Callicoe, 3 or 4 times round their Bodies, and the latter from their Arm-pits to their Knees. The Men have 2 or 3 Wives besides Concubines, and the _Dutch_ say, they are much addicted to lying and stealing: Those on the Coast are generally _Mahometans_, but the others _Pagans_. The Women are not so tawny as the Men, and many of them handsom, but in general amorous, and unfaithful to their Husbands or others, being very apt to give Poison, which they do very cunningly. It would be too tedious for me to describe all the remarkable Things I saw at _Batavia_. In short, I was perfectly surpriz’d, when I came hither, to see such a noble City, and _Europeans_ so well settled in the _Indies_. The Town is very populous, but not one Sixth of them _Dutch_. The _Chineze_ here go all bare-headed, with their Hair roul’d up, and long Gowns, carrying Fans in their Hands. The _Dutch_ say they are more industrious and acute in Trade than themselves. The Discipline and Order of the _Dutch_ here, both in Civil and Military Affairs, is admirable. They have all Necessaries for Building and Careening Ships, as well as in _Europe_, and their Officers as regular as in her Majesty’s Yards; whereas we have nothing like it in _India_. They keep the Natives very much in Awe, being perfectly despotical in their Government over them, because they say the Natives are naturally so treacherous that they are obliged to punish them severely, for small Faults; but they are favourable to the _Chineze_, because of the great Trade they have by their Means, and that they pay great Rents for their Shops, besides large Taxes, and from 16 to 30 _per Cent._ for Money, which they frequently borrow of the _Dutch_. I was told, there are about 80000 on the Island, who pay the _Dutch_ a Dollar a head, each Month, for Liberty to wear their Hair, which they are not allow’d to do at home, since they were conquer’d by the _Tartars_. There comes hither from _China_ 14 or 16 large Junks yearly, being flat bottom’d Vessels, from 3 to 500 Tuns a-piece. The Merchants come along with their Goods, which are lodg’d in different Partitions in the Vessel, like Ware-houses, for which they pay a certain Price, and not for the Weight or Measure of their Cargo, as we do; so that they fill them with what they please. They come in with an Easterly Monsoon, and generally arrive in _November_ or _December_, and return the Beginning of _June_, so that the _Dutch_ have all _Chineze_ Commodities brought to them cheaper than they can fetch them; and being conveniently situated for the Spice Trade, they have all in their own Hands. _Batavia_ wants no Commodities that _India_ affords. ’Tis Pity our _East India_ Company has no Settlement to which the _Chineze_ might resort; which I presume would turn to a much better Account than our going to _China_ does, where our Traders are but indifferently us’d. ’Tis about 5 Years since we quitted _Benjar_, in the Island of _Borneo_, which, by all the Accounts I had here, might, if well improv’d, have been as serviceable to our _East India_ Company as _Batavia_ is to the _Dutch_, who have seldom less than 20 Sail of Ships at the Isle of _Java_, from 30 to 50 and 60 Guns each, with Men enough for them on all Occasions, so that they might easily drive us out of most Parts, if not all _India_, should we ever have an unfortunate War with them. Their Soldiers are very well train’d, and there’s a Company always on Duty at every Gate of the City and Citadel; and they have 7 or 8000 disciplin’d _Europeans_ in and about the City, who can be ready for Action, at a very short Warning: ’Tis the Metropolis of their _Indian_ Settlements, and sends Governours and Officers to all the rest: The late General, before we came hither, had War with the _Indians_, which, I was inform’d, had like to have spoil’d their Settlements; but at last, they divided the Natives amongst themselves, brought them to a Peace on advantageous Conditions, and are now pretty secure of the Sea-Coasts. There are many pleasant Seats about the City, and the adjacent Country abounds with Rice, Sugar-Cane-fields, Gardens and Orchards, Mills for Sugar, Corn, and Gun-powder; so that this City is one of the pleasantest in the World. I don’t think it so large as _Bristol_, but ’tis more populous: They have Schools for _Latin_, _Greek_, _&c._ and a Printing House. They have lately begun to plant Coffee here, which thrives very well, so that in a little time they may be able to load a Ship or two; but I am told it is not so good as that of _Arabia_.

_Octob._ 12. We, according to Order from our Owners to keep our Ships full mann’d, if the War continued till our Return, ship’t here seventeen Men, most of them _Dutch_; the _Dutchess_ and _Batchelor_ near the same Number, so that we are all well mann’d; and tho’ we look’d upon our Hardships to be over, several ran from us here that came out of _England_ with us, being stragling Fellows that can’t leave their old Trade of Deserting, tho’ now they have a good Sum due to each of them, so that their Shares are by Contract due to those that continu’d.

_Octob._ 17. We got to the watering Place on the Main, within _Princes_ Island to _Java_ Head. The Chief of our Business here, was to get Water and Wood for our Passage to the Cape of _Good Hope_, which we compleated in 4 Days Time: But in the Interim a Misfortune befel us, which occasion’d our Stay longer on Account of a Boat lent us by Capt. _Pike_, Commander of the _Stringer_ Gally, who followed us hither from _Batavia_, after a Servant of his who was brought away by Captain _Dover_ in the _Batchelor_.

_Octob._ 23. The Boat was missing, but came back with all the Men safe, and we return’d her to Captain _Pike_, who had his Servant, and took his Leave of us.

We held the following Council just before we came to sail.

In a Committee on Board the _Duke_, _Octob._ 23. 1710. at _Java_ Head.

_It is agreed, that we make the best of our Way from hence to the Cape of_ Good Hope _; and if through Misfortune any Ship should loose or part Company, either by bad Weather or otherwise, they are to go to the Cape of_ Good Hope, _and if they don’t find the other Ships, to stay there 20 Days: But if within that Time the missing Ship or Ships don’t appear, then to make their utmost Dispatch for the Island St._ Hellena _; and if not there, to proceed thence according to the Owners Orders for_ Great Britain _._

Signed by the Majority of our Council.

_Octob._ 24. At 4 in the Afternoon _Java_ Head bore N. E. by E. distant 10 or 12 Leagues, which being the last Sight we had of it, from that we took our Departure.

_Octob._ 25. A fresh Gale of Wind at S. E. with fair Weather, but an ugly swelling Sea. This Morning in Stowing our best Anchor, _Joseph Long_, a Sailor, fell over Board, and being no Swimmer, before we could get the Boat out to his Assistance, was lost.

Nothing remarkable happen’d till the 27th of _December_, but that my Ship prov’d so leaky, that on the 31st of _October_ she had near 3 Foot Water in the Hold, and our Pumps being choak’d, we were in such Danger, that we made Signals, and fir’d Guns for our Consorts to come to our Relief, but had just suck’d her as the _Dutchess_ came up. The 10th of _October_, she sprung a new Leak, which we could not fully stop, tho’ we us’d all our Endeavours, and at the same time I had been for the most Part confin’d to my Cabbin by Illness, ever since I left _Batavia_. The 28th of _December_, Mr. _James Wase_ our chief Surgeon died, and we buried him decently next Day, with our Naval Ceremonies as usual, being a very honest useful Man, a good Surgeon, and bred up at _Leyden_, in the Study of Physick as well as Surgery. We made Land the 15th of _December_, came in with the Shoar the 18th, and had Soundings in 60 and 70 Fathom, the Ground grey Grett, with small Stones and Shells; had a strong Southerly Current, S. Lat. 34. 2. Lon. W. from _London_ 334. 34.

[Sidenote: At the Cape of Good Hope.]

The 27th of _December_, we came up with Cape _Falso_, betwixt which and the Cape of _Good Hope_, there’s a deep Bay, and about a 3d over from the Cape, there’s a Shold which breaks for a good Distance, but plain enough to be seen. By Noon we were a-breast of the Cape, and saw the Table-Land S. Lat. 34. 14.

The 28th We had very hard Flaws of Wind off the High Land, till we came within Sight of the _Lions Head_ and _Rump_, two Hills over the Cape _Toun_. This Day we arriv’d in the Harbour of the Cape, saluted the _Dutch_ Fort with 9 Guns, and were answer’d by 7. We anchor’d in 6 Fathom Water, about a Mile off Shoar, and found only one _English_ Ship, call’d the _Donegal_, Capt. _Cliff_ Commander, homeward bound from _Mocha_, and 2 _Middleburgers_ outward bound for _Batavia_ in the Harbour, besides the Guard-Ship, and 2 or 3 Galliots.

The 29th. We moor’d our Ship, and got down our Yards and Topmasts to guard against the hard Flaws of Wind off the Table-Land, which frequently blow very fresh betwixt E. S. E. and S. E. We sent 16 sick Men a-shoar. We spent till the 18th of _January_, 1710-11. in watering and re-fiting, and then held the following Committee.

On the 18th the Committee met a-shoar, and agreed as follows.

* * * * *

_The Three Ships wanting several Necessaries and Provisions, we agree, that Captain_ Rogers _and Captain_ Courtney _do bring 100 Weight of Plate a-shoar from either_ Duke _or_ Dutchess _, and 60 Ounces of unwrought Gold, with all the coined Gold or Silver that is in both Ships. We likewise empower them, in Conjunction with Captains_ Dover _and_ Cook _, to purchase what Necessaries are wanting for the Whole, and to sell what Goods are fit to be dispos’d of here, if not too much to our Disadvantage, rather than exchange more Gold or Silver. We also desir’d they would agree for a Cable and Anchor, now wanting for the_ Duke _, in Place of her Sheet Anchor and Cable, lately put aboard the_ Batchelor _for her Security._

Tho. Dover, _Pres._ Woodes Rogers, Steph. Courtney, Wm. Dampier, Robert Fry, John Connely, Lan. Appleby.

On the 1st of _February_, I offer’d some Proposals in Writing to Captains _Dover_ and _Courtney_, with the rest of the Committee, wherein I told them ’twas my Opinion we should loose too much Time to stay for the _Dutch_ Fleet, in order to have the Benefit of their Convoy to _Holland_, which would not only be out of our Way, but very tedious and chargeable; and we having large Quantities of decaying Goods on Board, the Time we should loose by waiting for the _Dutch_, might be advantagiously imploy’d in _Brazile_, where we could lie in very little Danger of the Enemy, and vend them at great Rates, and thence get to _Bristol_ through the _North_ Channel, having the Summer before us. Continuing in the Lat. of 55 or 56 Degrees, 2 or 300 Leagues, before we get the Length of the North of _Ireland_, and by that Means might avoid the Track of the Enemy. I earnestly press’d, that if they could not agree to this, one of our Privateers might take this Run alone, and the other keep with the _Batchelor_ and _Dutch_ Fleet, but the Majority was against any Thing, but going Home with the _Dutch_ Fleet altogether, so that all I could do more was to remind them of examining the Goods aboard the _Batchelor_, and to take out of her so much Goods in safe Package, as would lie in the like Room of _European_ Goods on Board the _Dutchess_, That if any Accident should happen to the _Batchelor_, we might have Part of her Value in another Bottom. I desir’d, if any amongst them were not of this Opinion, they would give their Reasons to the contrary in Writing; but we could agree to nothing. So I was forced to yield to the Majority of a Committee to go home with the _Dutch_ Fleet, and having a good Conveyance by two Ships to advise our Owners, I wrote ’em a full Account of all our Transactions since we left _Grande_, and other Matters relating to the Voyage. And also sent what we had agreed in the Committee to our Owners, which was as follows.

Gentlemen,

[Sidenote: _At the Cape of Good Hope._]

_This is to acquaint you of our safe Arrival at the Cape of_ Good Hope, _December, 29, 1710. with our Prize the_ Acapulco _Ship, call’d _Nuestra Señora de’l Incarnation y Disengano _, commanded by Monsieur _John Pechberty _, and now call’d by us the_ Batchelor _Frigat, mounted with 20 Great Guns, and 20 Brass Pattereroes, and mann’d with 116 Men, a firm Ship, and each of our Ships are mann’d with 120 Men each, in Company with 3_ English East-India _Ships, and do expect 3 Sail more every Day. The_ Dutch _Ships from_ Batavia _(which are 12 Sail of stout Ships) are expected here every Hour, and six Sail more from_ Ceilon _, which Fleet we are resolved in Council to accompany to_ Holland _, except we have an Account of Peace, or happen to meet with an_ English _Convoy in crossing our Latitudes. Our Ships are all fitted with every thing necessary, and only wait for the Fleet, which we expect will sail by the last of_ March _. Hoping God will so direct us, that we shall come with Speed and Safety to yourselves, and the rest of our Friends, to whom we render all due Respects, and remain,_ Gentlemen _,_

Your most humble and most obedient Servants,

Tho. Dover, _Pres_. Woodes Rogers, Steph. Courtney, Edward Cook, Wm. Dampier, Robert Fry, William Stretton, Charles Pope, Tho. Glendall, John Connely, John Ballett.

We being now likely to spend so much Time here, and the _Duke_ having been very leaky all the way betwixt _Batavia_ and this Place, and considering the long Passage we had to _England_, I moved to the Council that we might go to _Sardinia_ Bay to careen. ’Twas debated some time before betwixt me and Capt. _Courtney_ _pro_ and _con_; and to be farther satisfy’d, on the 13_th_ Capts. _Cook_, _Fry_ and _Stretton_ were appointed to come aboard, and we had a Survey of Carpenters concerning the Leak. After some Rummage, they agreed ’twould be very dangerous to attempt any thing within-board, and no other way but Careening would do, which Capt. _Dover_ and the Majority would not consent to; so that we are forc’d to lie in as bad a condition as ever, only now and then mitigate the Leak with a Bonnet,[152] which is of no long continuance in the Harbour, much less when we come to Sea. This Day about Noon the _Batavia_ Fleet came in, being 11 Sail. The Fort saluted the Flag with 21 Guns, and all the _English_ Ships saluted likewise, except mine, which being upon the Heel,[153] could not do it.

_Feb._ 26. Having been very weak, and kept my Chamber for several Days, but now something better, I sent for most of my Officers ashore, that I might be thoroughly satisfied what was wanting aboard, in order to go home with the _Dutch_ Fleet; and being too weak, and made uncapable of assisting to get any thing, I deliver’d in the said Account to Capts. _Dover_, _Courtney_ and _Cooke_, with the rest of the Committee, that we might not be hurried to Sea without Necessaries for Subsistance.

On the 27_th_ we made a Rummage for Bale Goods to dispose of ashore, having Leave of the Governour, and provided a Store-house, where Capt. _Courtney_, with the Owners Agent took their turns weekly during the Sale of them.

Nothing remarkable happen’d till the 3_d_ of _April_, but that on the 13_th_ of _March_ 4 _Dutch_ Ships came in from _Ceylon_, 3 of them having lost their Main Masts, and being otherwise much damaged by a violent Storm they met with in Lat. 18. S.

I took in more Water and Provisions, sent more Goods ashore to the Storehouse, and disposed of 12 Negroes.

On the 28_th_ of _March_ a _Portuguese_ Ship from _Brasile_ came in with advice, that 5 Stout _French_ Ships attempted _Rio Janiero_, but were repuls’d, and had a great Number of Men kill’d, and 400 taken Prisoners by the _Portuguese_.