Part 34

The Governour lives on the N. side of the Island, where there’s a small Village, and a Convent, being the chief Habitation of the _Spaniards_. They marry with the Natives, and had not above four _Spanish_ Women on the Island. The _Indians_ are tall and strong, of a dark olive Colour, go all naked, except a Clout about their Posteriors, and the Women have little Petticoats. The Men are dextrous at flinging of Stones, which they make of Clay, of an oval Form, burning them, till as hard as Marble, and are so good Marks-men, that the _Spaniards_ say, they seldom miss hitting any Mark, and throw it with such a Force, as to kill a Man at a considerable Distance. I heard of no other Weapons that they used, but a Stick or Lance made of the heaviest Wood in the Island.

[Sidenote: _At the Island of Guam_.]

The Governour presented us with one of their flying Prows, which I shall describe here because of the Odness of it. The _Spaniards_ told me ’twould run 20 Leagues _per_ Hour, which I think too large; but by what I saw, I verily believe, they may run 20 Miles or more in the Time, for when they viewed our Ships, they passed by us like a Bird flying. These Prows are about 30 Foot long, not above 2 broad, and about 3 deep; they have but one Mast which stands in the Middle, with a Mat Sail, made in the Form of a Ship’s Mizen. The Yard is slung in the Middle, and a Man sits at each End with a Paddle to steer her, so that when they go about, they don’t turn the Boat as we do to bring the Wind on the other side, but only change the Sail, so that the Tack and Sheet of the Sail are used alike, and the Boat’s Head and Stern are the same, only they change them, as Occasion requires, to sail either Way; for they are so narrow that they could not bear any Sail, were it not for Booms, that run out from the Windward Side, fasten’d to a large Log shap’d like a Boat, and near half as long, which becomes contiguous to the Boat. On these Booms a Stage is made above the Water, on a Level with the Side of the Boat, upon which they carry Goods or Passengers. The greatest inconveniency in sailing these Boats is before the Wind, for by the Out-layer, which is built out on one Side, if the Wind presses any thing heavy on the contrary Side, the Boat is over-set, which often happens; having brought one of these Boats to _London_, it might be worth fitting up to put in the Canal in St. _James_’s Park for a Curiosity, since we have none like it in this Part of the World.

As soon as the Boat return’d from landing Senior _Figuro_, we put under Sail, having a fine Breeze of Wind at E.N.E. We had generally fair Weather here in the Day Time, and Showers commonly in the Night, but very sultry. The Wind always off Shoar betwixt the E. and N.E. Our Decks are filled with Cattle and Provender.

* * * * *

According to Promise, I have here inserted my Run from _California_ to _Guam_.

_A Table of each Days Run between Cape_ St. Lucas _in_ California, _and the Island of_ Guam.

[Sidenote: _A Table of Runs._]

+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- | | | | _Lat. by |_Long. W.|_Diff. Lon.|_Variation 1709/10 | | _Course._ |_Dist._| Reck. & | from_ | from Cape_|Easterly._ _January_ | | | |Observat._| London. | S. Lucas. | ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- | | | | N. | W. | W. | 12 | E | S. 22 30 W. | 45 | 22 16 | 114 09 | 00 09 | 03 00 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 13 | F | S. 28 00 W. | 66 | 21 18 | 114 42 | 00 42 | 02 50 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 14 | G | S. 33 45 W. | 54 | 20 24 | 115 15 | 01 15 | 02 50 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 15 | A | S. 33 45 W. | 52 | 19 25 | 115 45 | 01 45 | 02 50 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 16 | B | S. 33 45 W. | 68 | 18 56 | 116 24 | 02 24 | 02 45 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 17 | C | S. 33 45 W. | 72 | 18 00 | 117 06 | 03 06 | 02 45 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 18 | D | S. 35 10 W. | 41 | 17 11 | 117 30 | 03 30 | 02 15 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 19 | E | S. 33 45 W. | 62 | 16 32 | 118 05 | 04 05 | 02 00 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 20 | F | S. 43 40 W. | 68 | 15 44 | 118 54 | 04 54 | 01 50 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 21 | G | S. 68 00 W. | 83 | 15 00 | 120 15 | 06 15 | 01 30 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 22 | A | W. 06 48 S. | 94 | 14 49 | 122 05 | 08 05 | 01 10 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 23 | B | W. 05 20 S. | 152 | 14 36 | 124 25 | 10 25 | 00 50 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 24 | C | W. 04 00 S. | 142 | 14 24 | 126 45 | 12 45 | 00 40 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 25 | D | W. 04 10 S. | 151 | 13 14 | 129 05 | 15 05 | 00 45 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 26 | E | W. 05 25 S. | 147 | 13 50 | 131 23 | 17 25 | 00 50 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 27 | F | W. 18 50 S. | 97 | 13 29 | 132 58 | 18 58 | 01 00 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 28 | G | W. | 88 | 13 29 | 134 41 | 20 41 | 01 10 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 29 | A | W. 03 00 S. | 122 | 13 22 | 136 48 | 22 48 | 01 15 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 30 | B | W. 04 00 N. | 146 | 13 27 | 139 21 | 25 21 | 01 25 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 31 | C | W. 04 00 N. | 160 | 13 32 | 142 07 | 28 07 | 01 30 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- _Feb._ 1 | D | W. | 143 | 13 32 | 144 37 | 30 37 | 01 40 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 2 | E | W. 04 00 N. | 168 | 13 36 | 147 32 | 33 32 | 01 50 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 3 | F | W. 06 00 S. | 160 | 13 26 | 150 18 | 36 18 | 02 00 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 4 | G | W. | 156 | 13 26 | 153 02 | 39 02 | 02 10 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 5 | A | W. | 130 | 13 26 | 155 19 | 41 19 | 02 25 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 6 | B | W. | 137 | 13 26 | 157 43 | 43 43 | 02 30 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 7 | C | W. 02 00 S. | 161 | 13 25 | 160 31 | 46 31 | 02 50 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 8 | D | W. 08 00 N. | 144 | 13 41 | 163 00 | 49 00 | 03 00 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 9 | E | W. | 130 | 13 41 | 165 18 | 51 18 | 03 20 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 10 | F | W. 01 00 N. | 124 | 13 44 | 167 26 | 53 26 | 03 30 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 11 | G | W. 03 00 S. | 146 | 13 36 | 169 56 | 55 56 | 03 45 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 12 | A | W. 01 00 S. | 146 | 13 33 | 172 27 | 58 27 | 04 00 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 13 | B | W. 01 00 N. | 148 | 13 36 | 175 00 | 61 00 | 04 30 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 14 | C | W. 02 00 S. | 136 | 13 32 | 177 21 | 63 21 | 05 20 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 15 | D | W. 04 00 N. | 125 | 13 40 | 179 28 | 65 28 | 06 30 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 16 | E | W. 04 00 N. | 112 | 13 47 | 181 24 | 67 24 | 07 00 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 17 | F | W. 04 00 N. | 114 | 13 54 | 183 22 | 69 22 | 07 30 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 18 | G | W. 01 00 S. | 130 | 13 52 | 185 37 | 71 37 | 09 00 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 19 | A | W. 07 00 S. | 122 | 13 40 | 187 42 | 73 42 | 10 15 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 20 | B | W. 07 00 S. | 124 | 13 28 | 189 49 | 75 49 | 11 00 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 21 | C | W. 04 00 S. | 98 | 13 21 | 191 30 | 77 30 | 11 30 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 22 | D | W. 05 00 S. | 113 | 13 12 | 193 25 | 79 25 | 12 00 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 23 | E | W. 04 00 S. | 70 | 13 07 | 194 37 | 80 37 | 11 50 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 24 | F | W. 01 30 N. | 72 | 13 10 | 195 51 | 81 51 | 11 00 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 25 | G | W. 04 00 S. | 118 | 13 03 | 197 51 | 83 51 | 10 00 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 26 | A | W. 01 30 S. | 70 | 13 00 | 199 03 | 85 03 | 9 50 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 27 | B | W. 02 00 S. | 71 | 12 57 | 200 16 | 86 16 | 9 30 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 28 | C | W. 02 00 S. | 120 | 12 54 | 202 20 | 88 20 | 9 00 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- _Mar._ 1 | D | W. 02 00 N. | 108 | 12 58 | 204 12 | 90 12 | 8 40 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 2 | E | W. 03 00 N. | 110 | 13 04 | 206 06 | 92 06 | 8 20 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 3 | F | W. 01 00 N. | 84 | 13 05 | 207 33 | 93 33 | 8 00 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 4 | G | W. | 88 | 13 05 | 209 04 | 95 94 | 7 50 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 5 | A | W. 02 00 S. | 106 | 13 02 | 211 54 | 96 54 | 7 30 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 6 | B | W. 02 48 N. | 105 | 13 07 | 212 42 | 98 42 | 7 10 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 7 | C | W. | 82 | 13 07 | 214 07 | 100 07 | 7 00 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 8 | D | W. 03 00 S. | 78 | 13 03 | 215 28 | 101 28 | 6 50 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 9 | E | W. 03 00 N. | 100 | 13 08 | 217 11 | 103 11 | 6 30 ---+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+---------- 10 | F | W. 06 00 N. | 74 | 13 16 | 218 27 | 104 27 | 5 40 ----------+---+-------------+-------+----------+---------+-----------+----------

At 3 a Clock in the Afternoon the Island of _Guam_ bore W. by S. distant 10 Leagues.

[Sidenote: _From the Island of Guam towards Ternate._]

_1710 March 22._ At 6 last Night, the Body of the Island _Guam_ bore E. N. E. Dist. 8 Leagues, from whence we took our Departure, designing for _Ternate_, one of the _Melucca_ Islands belonging to the _Dutch_, and distant from _Guam_, about 400 Leagues. We had a fresh Gale of Wind at N. E. and N. E. by E. with fair Weather, but very sultry. Lat. 12. 45. Var. 5. 30. E.

_April 11._ Nothing remarkable has occurr’d worth noting, but that we have generally had a strong Current setting to the Northward. At Two Yesterday Afternoon we made Land, bearing S. E. distant about 5 Leagues, being a low flat Island, all green, and full of Trees. Lat. 2. 54. N. This Island is not laid down in any Sea Chart; our Ship continues very leaky.

_April 14._ Yesterday in the Afternoon we saw Land, bearing W. S. W. 12 Leagues, being very high. The Current has set to the Northward this 24 Hours very strong. Lat. 1. 54.

_April 15._ Yesterday in the Afternoon we made other Land, which bore W. N. W. distant about 10 Leagues, and suppos’d it to be the N. E. Part of _Celebes_. We saw 3 Water-Spouts; one of which had like to have broke on the _Marquiss_, but the _Dutchess_ by firing two Shot, broke it before it reach’d her. We saw a very large Tree a-float, with a Multitude of Fish about it; and 2 large Islands, the Southermost bearing S. W. distant about 8 Leagues, and the Northermost W. N. W. 7 Leagues, both being the same Land we saw Yesterday; and the latter we now suppose to be the S. E. Part of _Moratay_ [Mortai] and the other the N. Part of _Gilolo_. At Noon the Southermost Land bore S. W. by S. 10 Leagues, and the Westermost 5 Leagues. N. Lat. 02. 13.

_April 17._ We having a Westerly Gale, and the Current setting against us, we gained little Ground in turning to get about _Moratay_. We had indifferent fair Weather all Night and Morning, but standing pretty much to the Southward, lost Sight of the Land, a strong Current setting to the Northward.

_April 23._ We had very stormy Weather for most Part since the 17_th_, the _Marquiss_ and we suffer’d both in our Rigging. So that we begin to despair of getting to Windward of this Island _Moratay_, to reach _Ternate_, which is now near us; but we are obliged to keep Company with the _Marquiss_ and _Batchelor_, who sail but very indifferent upon a Wind; and it’s the hardest upon our Ship’s Company, who are wearied almost to Death with continual Pumping, the Leak having encreas’d upon us since we came out of _Guam_, so that it is as much as 4 Men are able to keep her free Half an Hour, all the Watch being oblig’d to come to it once in 4 Hours.

_April 29._ We got 292 _Lib._ Weight of Bread from the _Batchelor_ Yesterday Afternoon, in Exchange for Meat we sent ’em, which with what we had before, will last us about 20 Days, and not much longer. We begin to be very much disheartned, because Captain _Dampier_, who has been twice here, tells us, that if we can’t get _Ternate_, or find the Island _Tyla_ [Tulur], we can reach no Port or Place to recruit at, and that it will be impossible to get Provisions for us on the Coast of _New Guinea_, should we be forc’d to go thither; upon which I sent my Opinion aboard of our Consorts, and desir’d they would call a Committee, and agree how to proceed next; which they did as follows.

* * * * *

At a Committee held on Board the _Batchelor_ Frigat, _April 29, 1710_.

_It is agreed to make the best of our Way to the Island of_ Tula, _where we are in Expectation of supplying our selves with Wood, Water and Provisions, to cruize_ 10 _or_ 12 _Days for this Island, being uncertain of its Scituation; and in Case the Wind should present sooner, that we can fetch_ Ternate, _then to make the best of our Way for it; but if the Wind should not present for_ Ternate, _nor the Island_ Tula, _then, if we see Occasion, to make the best of our Way to some Port in_ Mindanao. _And for all Opportunities in going about and carrying a Light, we leave it to Captain_ Courtney _in the_ Dutchess.

_May 2._ We shaped our Course for _Ternate_ a second Time, being in all Probability to the Westward of _Gillolo_, having made by our Reckoning 3 Degrees of Longitude to the Westward of _Moratay_.

_May 3._ About 8 this Morning we made Land, which we took to be some of the Islands lying off the N. East Part of _Celebes_. It bore W. S. W. of us, distant about 15 Leagues.

_May 7._ Fair Weather till 4 this Morning, when there came up a violent Shower, with great Flashes of Lightning. At Break of Day we saw Land trending from S. E. by S. to S. S. W. which at first appear’d like 5 Islands, but after it clear’d up, we plainly perceiv’d it was one continued Land; we also saw other Lands to the Westward of that, which bore W. by S. distant about 10 Leagues, and were of Opinion, that we were got to the Eastward of _Gillolo_ a second Time. We were the more inclinable to believe this, because whenever we try’d the Current, we generally found it set to the Eastward very strong, tho’ we little thought it could have driven us so far back.

[Sidenote: _Sailing towards Gillolo, etc._]

_May 9._ Yesterday in the Afternoon all the Officers met aboard us to consult about the Land, and what Course to take; but being divided in Opinions, we defer’d coming to a Resolution, till such Time as we were better satisfy’d. We try’d the Current at 4 a Clock, when it set N. N. W. after the Rate of 20 Miles in 24 Hours. We made no other Land all Day than that we first saw, so stood on and off all Night, expecting a Gale to run in with it in the Morning, but having Calms for the most Part, and a Current setting against us, we still lost Ground, and made another round high Hummock about Noon, which bore S. E. by E. distant 8 Leagues; the Southermost Land bearing at the same Time S. by E. 7 Leagues, and the Westermost W. by S. 8 Leagues.

_May 10._ I sent the Pinnace aboard the _Marquiss_ with 12 Hogsheads and a Barrel of Water, their Stock being almost spent, and in their Way order’d ’em to speak with the _Batchelor_ and _Dutchess_, to be satisfy’d what Allowance of _Pady_ (being Rice in the Husk) their Men were at; because ours had a Notion they had more than we, I having order’d ’em but a Pound and a Quarter for 5 Men, whereas before they had two Pound. Upon Enquiry I found the Ship’s Companies far’d all alike; but to make ’em easie, agreed with Capt. _Courtney_ and the rest to make it 2 Pound again; at which Allowance we have not above 12 Days at most, being all the Bread Kind we have in the Ship.

_May 12._ We were satisfied that the many Islands and Land that we saw for these several Days was the Straights of _New Guinea_; we spoke with the _Dutchess_, who had been near that Land where we perceived the greatest Opening, and they told us the Reason of their keeping in with the Shore was with a Design to have anchored, but meeting with irregular Soundings, did not think fit to adventure it. They sent their Boat ashore to the Eastermost small Island, to see what they could meet with. We stood within a Mile and half of the Shore, when the Water began to discolour. We sounded and had 30 Fathom Water, and presently after but 6; so we went about, and stood off till the _Dutchess’s_ Boat return’d, who gave us an account that they had seen the Tracks of Turtle, and Mens Feet, with Fire-places lately made. These Islands are in the same Climate with the Spice Islands, and no doubt would produce Spice, if planted. I went on board the _Dutchess_, and agreed with Capt. _Courtney_ to send the Pinnace ashore, standing on and off with our Ships all Night. Lat. 00. 24. S. Long. 236. 25. West from _London_.

_May 13._ We kept turning to Windward this 24 Hours, betwixt the Southermost long Track of Land we made first of all, and the Islands to the Eastward of it, where we expected to find the Passage betwixt _Gillolo_ and _New Guinea_.

_May 15._ We being jealous of each other, who had the most Provisions, we this Day met aboard the _Batchelor_, and carried an Account with us of what each Ship had left, and on making a strict Rummage there, we found more Rice than we expected; so that with the shortest Allowance we may subsist at Sea above 3 Weeks longer. Each Ship’s Proportion of the Provisions we had left being weigh’d, we then return’d to our Ships in a better state than we expected.

_May 18._ We have passed several Islands, and are now in sight of what we account the Point or Cape of _New Guinea_, and the South End of _Gillolo_, which appears about 8 Leagues asunder, with some Islands near each side; we have commonly little Wind, and very verable. This being the Time that the S. East Monsoon begins, which made the Weather and Wind very uncertain. Lat. 2. S.

_May 20._ The _Dutchess_ generally kept a-head in the Night, with her Pinnace a-head of her, because the Currents are so very uncertain, and being in an unknown Track, we cannot be too careful in the Night. We are still in sight of the High Lands of _New Guinea_, and several Islands to the Northward, which we find laid down in no Draught, so we noted them as we past by. This Way into _India_ would not be half so dangerous as it is imagined, were it well known. While we had any Breeze of Wind, in the Day we towed our Prize. We made another long high Island trending from S. by E. to W.S.W. distant about 12 Leagues, and crowded along Shore to make what it was, judging it to be the Island _Ceram_. We likewise made another Island to the Northward, which bore N. by W. distant about 7 Leagues. S. Lat. 03.

_May 21._ Being close under it, I sent the Pinnace aboard the _Dutchess_ yesterday Afternoon to know what they made of the Land, and what they design’d to do; their Boat met ours, and told ’em Capt. _Dampier_ was of the same Opinion with us, that it is the Island _Ceram_.

[Sidenote: _Sailing towards the Island of Bouton._]

_May 22._ Had an ugly Gale of Wind, which drove us clear off the Island we took to be _Ceram_. Since the 18_th_ that we past the Streights of _New Guinea_, we have had a Westerly Current, but before the Current generally set to the Eastward. We have now dark gloomy Weather, with a strong Gale of Wind at S. E. and S. E. by E. runs us out of sight of all the Land. Our Ship is still very leaky, and we begin to be in the utmost want of all manner of Refreshments and Necessaries, and doubtful where to harbour or refit, the Land being unknown to us for want of good Drafts, or an experienc’d Pilot. Lat. 3. 40. S. Long. 237. 21. W. from _London_.