Part 33

Their most remarkable Trees, besides what are common to _Europe_, are 1. The Cinnamon Tree, so call’d, because the Bark resembles Cinnamon, in such Plenty, that they cover their Houses with them: They keep their Leaves all the Year, and resemble the _Italian_ Lawrel Royal. 2. The Guyac Tree grows in the _Cordillera_, is as hard and heavy as Iron: The Decoction is good against many Diseases. 3. The Sandal Tree, that is very odoriferous, a Preservative against infectious Distempers, and therefore us’d by the Priests when they visit the Sick. 4. The Maguey, whose Leaves are admirable against Burnings; the Fruit is like Myrtle-Berries, and of an excellent Relish. 5. The Quelu, of whose Fruit they make a very sweet Drink. 7. Iluigan, the _Spaniards_ call it _Molde_, ’tis of the Shape and Colour of Pepper: It grows on a small Tree, and makes an agreeable Liquor, coveted by those of Quality. 8. The Myrtilla which grows on the Mountains, from Lat. 37. and upwards: _Herrera_ says, its Fruit is a common Good to the Natives, not unlike a Grape, and of this they make a Wine that exceeds all other Liquors. ’Tis of a bright gold Colour, will bear more Water than any other Wine, chears the Heart, and never offends the Stomach, but increases Appetite. The Vinegar made of it exceeds all other sorts. Our Author adds, that their Cypress, Cedar and Oak Trees are extraordinary good.

He comes next to the Islands of _Chili_. The first are those of _Juan Fernandez_, already describ’d. The second are the Islands of _Chiloe_, which lie about Lat. 43, and form an Archipelago of 40 Islands. He says the Nature of the Climate is such, that it rains almost all the Year, so that only Maiz or such other Grain can ripen here, as need little Sun. The chief Diet of the Inhabitants is the Root _Papas_, which is larger here than any where else. They have excellent Shell-fish, very good Poultry and Hogs, some Beeves and Sheep. The Capital of this Country is the City of _Castra_, which lies in the chief Island, and is garrison’d by the _Spaniards_. Here they have great Store of Honey and Wax, and some Gold Mines on the Coast. Their chief Manufacture is Clothing for the _Indians_, and they have vast Woods of Cedar Trees of a prodigious size, with the Planks of which they drive a great Trade to _Chili_ and _Peru_. 3. The Islands of _Chonos_, in Lat. 45. but of little Use, because of the excessive Rains which drown the Soil. 4. The Fine Island, which lies almost in the same Latitude with _Val Paraiso_ and _St. Jugo_: It has a safe Harbour for Ships, where they may ride in 20 or 30 Fathom Water. The _Spaniards_ say ’tis a very beautiful Island, abounds with Trees, wild Boars, and other Game, and excellent Water; and there’s Plenty of Fish on the Coast. 5. The Island of _Mocha_, where the _Dutch_, under _Spilberg_, found a very generous Reception by the Natives, who furnish’d them with Plenty of Sheep, and other Provisions, in exchange for Clothes, Axes, _&c_. The North side of it is plain and low, but the South side rocky. 6. The Island of _St. Maria_, 13 Leagues S.W. from the City of _Conception_, and 3 from _Arauco_: It is very fruitful and temperate, lies about Lat. 37, and is well inhabited. 7. The Islands of _Pedro de Sarmiento_, so call’d, because he discover’d them, when in Pursuit of Sir _Francis Drake_. They are about 80 in Number, and lie about Lat. 50. so that we suppose them to be those now call’d _The Duke of York’s Islands_, which lie a little to the Northward of the Straits of _Magillan_.

[Sidenote: _Sailing towards the Island of Guam._]

Our Author comes next to _Guio_, the third Quarter of _Chili_, which lies on the other side of the _Cordillera_, towards the East. ’Tis divided into several Provinces, and quite differs in Temperature from _Chili_. The Summer is excessive hot, and the Inhabitants so annoy’d with Bugs and Muskettos, that they lie abroad in their Gardens and Yards. They have almost perpetual Thunders and Lightnings, and are mightily infested with poisonous Insects: These are the bad Qualities of the Country, to compensate which, the Soil, in many places, if possible, exceeds that of _Chili_ in Fruitfulness; the Crops are richer, the Fruits larger, and of a better Taste, because of the greater Heats. They have Store of Corn, Wine, Flesh, and all the Fruits, Roots, and Herbs of _Europe_, with large Plantations of Olives and Almonds. The Cold is not so sharp in Winter as that of _Chili_, and the Air much clearer, so that the Season is then very temperate: they have great Quantities of large excellent Trouts, and other River Fish. Their peculiar Fruits are, 1. Algaroba, of which they make a Bread so sweet, that Strangers can’t eat it. They supply _Tucuman_ and _Paraguay_ with Figs, Pomgranates, Apples, dry’d Peaches and Grapes, and excellent Wine and Oil. _Ovalle_ says, That in his time there were rich Mines of Gold and Silver discover’d here, which were reckon’d to be better than those of _Potosi_, and that in short it had all Necessaries for Life in as great abundance as any other Country, and in general is very healthful. The Provinces of _Tucuman_ and _Paraguay_, which bound this Country we have already describ’d.

_Jan. 10._ I now go on with my Journal, being on our Departure from _California_, and returning to _Great Britain_. I shall not trouble the Reader with every Day’s particular Transactions in this long and tedious Passage, but only take notice of such Occurrences as are worth remark, and to satisfy the Curious, shall subjoin a particular Table of each Day’s Run, with the Latitude, Longtitude and Variation betwixt Cape _St. Lucas_ on _California_, and _Guam_, one of the _Ladrones_ Islands. We resolved to keep an exact Account of the Distance and Variation not being certainly known to us from any former Voyagers.

_Jan. 11._ We weigh’d from Port _Segura_ last Night, but were becalm’d under the Shore till the 12_th_ in the Afternoon, when there sprung up a Breeze, which soon run us out of sight of the Land. We took our Departure from Cape _St. Lucas_, which bore N. by E. at 12 a Clock, distant about 15 Leagues. We were forc’d to go away with little or no Refreshment, having but 3 or 4 Fowls, and a very slender Stock of Liquor, which we got out of the _Batchelor_. Several of our Men were in a weak Condition, besides my self, Mr. _Vanbrugh_, and the rest that were wounded. We were forc’d to allow but 1 Pound and half of Flower, and 1 small Piece of Meat to 5 in a Mess, with 3 Pints of Water a Man for 24 Hours, for Drink and Dressing their Victuals. We struck down 10 of our Guns into the Hold, to ease the Ship; for being out of the way of Enemies, they are altogether useless betwixt this and the _East Indies_. On the 16_th_ the _Batchelor_ made a Signal to give us some Bread, they having found a good Quantity of Bread and Sweet-meats aboard her, but little of Flesh-kind: We had 1000 Weight of Bread for our Share, the _Dutchess_ as much, and the _Marquiss_ 500 Weight; in lieu of which we sent back to the Prize 2 Casks of Flower, one of _English_ Beef, and one of Pork, they having but 45 Days Provision aboard in Flesh. This Morning _Thomas Conner_, a Boy, fell overboard, but the Launch being a-stern, we cut her Moarings, and took him up just as he was tired with Swimming, and ready to sink.

On the 26_th_ in the Morning the Water was very much discolour’d, at which being surprized, we immediately sounded, but found no Ground. We spoke with the _Dutchess_, and agreed to go away W.S.W. till we got into the Lat. of 13°, because our _Spanish_ Pilot told us it was dangerous going in 14, by reason of Islands and Shoals, where a _Spanish_ Vessel was lost some time ago, ever since which the _Manila_ Ship, in her Return from _Acapulco_, runs in Lat. 13. and keeps that Parallel till they make the Island of _Guam_.

On the 28_th_ the Steward missing some Pieces of Pork, we immediately search’d, and found the Thieves, one of ’em had been guilty before, and forgiven, on promise of Amendment, but was punish’d now, lest Forbearance should encourage the rest to follow this bad Practice; Provisions being so short, and our Run so long, may prove of ill consequence. I order’d ’em to the Main Jeers, and every Man of the Watch to give ’em a Blow with a Cat of Nine-tails, and their Messmates being privy to the Theft, were put in Irons.

_Feb. 1._ We buried one _Boyce_, betwixt 40 and 50 Years of Age, whom we brought from _Guiaquil_, where and in other Parts of _New Spain_ he had been a Prisoner above 7 Years, since he was taken in the Bay of _Campeachy_.

On the 5_th_ a Negro we named _Deptford_ died, who being very much addicted to stealing of Provisions, his Room was more acceptable than his Company at this time. On the 6_th_ we spoke with the _Dutchess_; I was for augmenting the Mens Allowance in Meat, since we had such a favourable Gale, which was like to continue; but Capt. _Courtney_ objected against it, alledging that if we miss’d _Guam_, we should all be starved; so we deferr’d it a Week longer. We have had very bad luck in fishing hitherto, having took only one Albicore since we came from Cape _St. Lucas_.

[Sidenote: _Arrival at the Island of Guam._]

On the 11_th_ I agreed with Capt. _Courtney_ to continue a W. by S. Course till we get clear of the Rocks call’d the _Bartholomews_, which are laid down in 13° and a half; but the Distance of them being variously computed, makes us the more cautious, and keep a constant good Look-out. On the 13_th_ the _Spanish_ Pilot we took in the _Batchelor_ died; we kept him, thinking he might be of use to us, if he recover’d of his Wounds; but he was shot in the Throat with a Musket-ball, which lodg’d so deep, the Doctors could not come at it. On the 14_th_ we agreed with Capt. _Courtney_ to give half a Pound of Flower or Bread more to a Mess. That same Day, in Commemoration of the ancient Custom in _England_ of chusing _Valentines_, I drew up a List of the fair Ladies in _Bristol_, that were any ways related to or concern’d in the Ships, and sent for my Officers into the Cabbin, where every one drew, and drank the Lady’s Health in a Cup of Punch, and to a happy Sight of ’em all; this I did to put ’em in mind of Home. On the 17_th_ I was troubled with a swelling in my Throat, which incommoded me very much, till this Morning I got out a Piece of my Jaw Bone that lodg’d there since I was wounded. Our Ship began to make more Water, so we clapt on a new Bonnet where we took the old one off; but after many fruitless Attempts, were forc’d to keep one Pump continually going, every two Men in the Watch taking their Posts once an Hour; which Labour, with the want of sufficient Food, make our People look miserably.

On the 18_th_ we threw a Negro overboard, who died of a Consumption and Want together. Our Men began to be very much out of order, and what adds to their Weakness is our continual Pumping, nor can we pretend to make any further Addition to their Allowance.

On the 25_th_ _Tho. Williams_, a _Welch_ Taylor, died; he was shot in the Leg at engaging the 2_d_ _Manila_ Ship, and being of a weak Constitution, fell into a Dysentery, which kill’d him. On the 26_th_ we caught a Couple of fine Dolphins, which were very acceptable to us, having had but very indifferent Luck of Fish in this long Passage.

On _March_ the 3_d_ we buried a Negro call’d _Augustine_, who died of the Scurvy and Dropsy. We agree to give 6 Negroes the same Allowance as five of our own Men, which will but just keep those that are in health alive.

On the 10_th_ we made Land, being the Island _Serpana_, which bore N.W. distant about 8 Leagues. The _Dutchess_ made another Island to the Westward, which bore W. by S. distant about 10 Leagues; the latter they took to be the Island _Guam_, so we clapt upon a Wind, and stood for it.

_March 11._ This Morning we had sight of both Islands, the Northermost bearing N.N.W. distant about 7 Leagues, and the Body of the Westermost W.S.W. 5 Leagues. The _Spaniards_ say there is a great Shoal between these Islands, but nearest to _Serpana_. We ran along the Shore, being satisfied it was the Island of _Guam_, from whence there came several flying Prows to look at the Ships; they run by us very swift, but none would venture aboard. At Noon the Westermost part of the Island bore West, and at the same time we made a small low Island joining to _Guam_, with a Shoal between it and _Guam_; the Island appear’d green and very pleasant, off of it there runs a Spit of Sand to the Southward, but keeping it a good Birth from you as you near it, there’s no Danger, being gradual Soundings to the Shoal. After we were clear of it we sprung our Luff, and stood in for the Harbour, which lies mid-way betwixt this and the North part of the Island. There came heavy Flaws of Wind off Shore, sometimes for us, and at other times against us; but we got to an Anchor in the Afternoon in 12 Fathom Water, about half a Mile off Shore, where there was a little Village. The small Island to the Southward bore South of us, distant about 3 Leagues, and another small one to the Northward bore N. N. W. about 2 Leagues. The Necessity of our stopping at these Islands to get a Refreshment of Provisions, was very great, our Sea Store being almost exhausted, and what we had left was very ordinary, especially our Bread and Flower, which was not enough for 14 Days at the shortest Allowance. In order to recruit quietly, we endeavour’d to get some of the Natives aboard that were in the Prows, to keep ’em as Hostages in case of sending any of our Men to the Governour: One of ’em, as we were turning into the Harbour with _Spanish_ Colours, came under our Stern. There were 2 _Spaniards_ in the Boat, who asked what we were, and from whence we came? Being answer’d in _Spanish_, that we were Friends, and came from _New Spain_, they willingly came aboard, and ask’d if we had any Letter to the Governour? We had one ready, but before we could get it signed by all the Commanders, there came a Messenger from the Governour, who demanded the same Account of us. We immediately sent him away with 2 of our Linguists, detaining one of the _Spaniards_ till they return’d. The Letter was thus:

_S I R_,

[Sidenote: _At the Island of Guam._]

_We being Servants to Her Majesty of_ Great Britain, _and stopping at these Islands in our Way to the_ East Indies, _will not molest the Settlement, provided you deal friendly by us. We will pay for whatever Provisions and Refreshments you have to spare, in such manner as best agrees with your Conveniency, either in Money, or any Necessaries you want. But if after this civil Request you deny us, and do not act like a Man of Honour, you may immediately expect such Military Treatment, as we are with ease able to give you. This we thought fit to confirm under our Hands, recommending to you our Friendship and kind Treatment, which we hope you’ll esteem, and assure your self we then shall be with the strictest Honour_,

_Your Friends and humble Servants_,

To the Honourable Governour of the Island of _Guam, March 23. 1709_

W. Rogers. S. Courtney. E. Cooke.

_March 11._ In the Morning we and the _Dutchess_ mann’d our Pinnace, and sent her ashore with a Flag of Truce, where they were entertained curteously by the Natives, who promis’d to supply us with such Provisions as they could spare, provided the Governour would give ’em leave. About Noon our Linguist return’d, and brought with him 3 _Spanish_ Gentlemen from the Governour, who in answer to our Letter sent another, expressing all Readiness imaginable to accommodate us with what the Island afforded, and that he had sent those Gentlemen to treat with us. I immediately sent for Capt. _Dover_, _Courtney_, and _Cooke_, &c. being not able to stir out of the Ship, and desir’d they would come and consult with me how to act.

_March 13._ This Morning we had 4 Bullocks, 1 for each Ship, with some Limes, Oranges, and Cocoa Nuts. Our Misunderstandings at _California_ have been very much augmented since by our Want of Provisions, one Ship’s Company being jealous the other had most and best; but now being arriv’d at a Place of Plenty, we are all indifferently well reconciled, and an Entertainment was provided aboard the _Batchelor_ for the _Spanish_ Gentlemen, where most of our Officers appointed to meet. I being not able to move my self, was hoisted in a Chair out of the Ship, and also out of the Boat into the _Batchelor_; there we had a good Entertainment, and agreed, that on Thursday next a Representative for each Ship should wait upon the Governour, and make him a handsome Present for his Civility and Readiness to supply us.

_March 15._ This Morning we had another Entertainment aboard the _Marquiss_, where I likewise went in the same manner as before.

_March 16._ This Morning our Pinnace went with several of our Officers to accept of the Governour’s Invitation ashore, who received them with all imaginable Friendship and Respect, having near 200 Men drawn up in Arms at their Landing, and the Officers and Clergy of the Island to conduct them to the Governour’s House, which was a very handsome Seat, considering where we are: They entertain’d them with at least sixty Dishes of several sorts, the best could be got on the Island, and when they took their Leaves, each fired a Volley of Small Arms. They presented the Governour, according as we had agreed, with 2 Negro Boys dress’d in Liveries, 20 Yards of Scarlet Cloth-Serge, and 6 Pieces of Cambrick, which he seem’d wonderfully pleas’d with, and promis’d to assist us in whatever lay in his Power.

_March 17._ This Day we got our Dividend, being about 60 Hogs, 99 Fowls, 24 Baskets of _Indian_ Corn, and 14 Bags of Rice, 44 Baskets of Yams, and 800 Cocoa Nuts.

_March 18._ There was an Entertainment aboard us to day, where we had most of our Officers, and 4 _Spanish_ Gentlemen from the Governour. I made ’em as welcome as Time and Place would afford, diverting ’em with Musick, and our Sailors Dancing till Night, when we parted very friendly. We got some more Bullocks on board, being small lean Cattle, but what we gladly accepted of; each Ship had 14 in all.

_March 20._ This Morning each Ship had 2 Cows and Calves more, being the last we are like to get. We had a Meeting on board the _Marquiss_, where ’twas agreed to make a handsome Present to the Governour’s Deputy, who had the Fatigue to get our Provisions together, wherein he us’d all possible dispatch. We gave him and the rest of the Gentlemen what they esteem’d double the Value of what we received of them, which they certify’d under their Hands, and that we had been very civil to them. We also gave them the like Certificate, sign’d by all our Officers, to shew to any _English_ that might have occasion to recruit there, and parted very friendly. Having finish’d that Affair, it was agreed, that we should steer from hence a West and by South Course to go clear of some Islands that lie in our way, and then thought it proper to steer directly for the South East part of _Mindanao_, and from thence the clearest Way to _Ternate_. It was also agreed, that our Ship being very leaky, I should deliver to Capt. _Courtney_ one Chest of Plate and Money, to be put on board the _Dutchess_.

[Sidenote: _The Island of Guam Described._]

_March 21._ At Break of Day we hoisted our Colours, and fired a Gun for our Consorts to unmoar. In the meantime, with the Consent of the other Officers I put an old _Spaniard_ ashore, call’d _Ant. Gomes Figuero_, whom we took in the 1_st_ Bark in the _South Seas_, and design’d to carry him to _Great Britain_, to condemn all our Prizes took there; but he being now in all appearance not likely to live, we agreed to dismiss him, he giving us a Certificate that he saw us attack and take several Prizes, all Subjects to _Philip_ V. King of _Spain_, &c. I gave him some Clothes and other odd things to help him in his Sickness, then put him ashore to the Deputy Governour, and the rest of the _Spanish_ Officers, who gave us a Certificate, that they receiv’d such a Person.

I shall here give a Description of the Isle of _Guam_.

_The Island of_ Guam _Describ’d_

This Island is about 40 Leagues round; the Anchoring Place is on the W. Side, and about the Middle there’s a large Cove, with several Houses built after the _Spanish_ Mode, with Accommodations for the Officers and Crew of the _Acapulco_ Ship, the Settlement being made here on purpose for that Ship to recruit at, in her Way to _Manila_. There are about 300 _Spaniards_ on this and the Neighbouring Islands; most of the Natives are their Converts. They told us they have 8 Fathers, 6 of whom teach School, besides performing their Offices as Clergymen. They have also Schools taught by _Mullattoes_ and _Indians_, who have learn’d the Language, so that most of the Natives understand _Spanish_. The _Spaniards_ inform me, that there’s a Range of Islands from hence to _Japan_. Among which there are several abound with Gold, and they were now building a small Vessel to discover them, in order to get a Trade.

The Island of _Guam_ it self abounds with Oranges, Lemons, Citrons, Musk and Water Melons, which were brought hither by the _Spaniards_. The Orange Trees thrive very well here. The Island is full of Hills and Dales, and Streams of good Water. They have Plenty of Cattle, but small, poor, and generally white. The _Indico_ Plant grows wild in such Abundance, that were they industrious, and had Coppers to boil it up, they might have great Quantities of that Commodity; but being so remote and out of the Way of Trade, they make no Use of it, nor do they improve any thing but what contributes to their present Subsistance; and having that, they are easie. Money is of so little Use, and so scarce among them, that they could not raise 1000 Dollars in the whole Island to purchase Commodities from us, which they would gladly have done. Here are about 200 Soldiers, who receive their Pay from _Manila_ by a small Ship once _per Ann._ This Ship brings them Cloaths, Sugar, Rice, and Liquor, for which she carries back most of the Money again. This has made them of late sow Rice in their Valleys, and make other Improvements. They abound with Hogs, which are the best Pork in the World, because they feed altogether on Cocoa-Nutts, and Bread-Fruit, which are plentiful here; and were not the _Spaniards_ slothful, they might have most Necessaries of their own Growth for the Maintenance of Life.

Their Bread Fruit I thought the most remarkable Thing on the Island. I saw some of it which was as large as Oranges, and much resembled them. They tell me, that when ripe they are three Times as large, and grow in many other Places near the Equinox in the _East Indies_. The Leaves are almost as large as those of Figs, something like them, but of a brown Colour. The Tree is large, and they have such Plenty of this Fruit in the Season, that they fatten their Hogs with them. The Fruit has no Stone, and by the Account they gave, the Inside resembles a dry Potato or Yam, with which they likewise abound.

The Wind blows constantly a S. E. Trade here, except during the Westerly Monsoons, which last from the Middle of _June_ to the Middle of _August_.