Part 32

The Country is divided into 3 Quarters, and those 3 into 13 Jurisdictions. The Quarter of _Chili_ proper extends from the River _Copiapo_ to that of _Maule_, and is hotter than _Spain_. The 2_d_ Quarter call’d Imperial, reaches from the River _Maule_ to that of _Gallegos_, and much resembles the Climate of _Spain_. The Proximity of the Mountains on one side, and of the Sea on the other, makes it colder than otherwise it would be; but it has Warmth enough to make it one of the best Countries in _America_. The Valley of _Copiapo_ is so fruitful, that it frequently yields 300 for one single Measure, those of _Guasco_ and _Coquimbo_ fall very little short of it, and that of _Chili_ proper is so excellent, that it gives Name to the whole Country by way of Eminence.

I come now to give a brief View of what _Ovalle_, a Native, says to it in general.

He tells us, that in _Chili_, properly so call’d, _viz._ the Country betwixt the Mountains and the Sea, the Soil and Climate exceed those of any part of _Europe_ in Goodness, by the Confession of the _Europeans_ themselves: He says it is like the best part of _Europe_ in every thing, except the Opposition of the Seasons, it being Spring and Summer in the one, when it is Autumn and Winter in the other; but in the Vallies the Heat and Cold are not so excessive as in _Europe_, especially from Lat. 36, or thereabouts to Lat. 45, so that neither the Heat of the Day nor the Cold of the Night can be complain’d of, from whence it is that the Inhabitants make no difference between the Summer and Winter in their Bedding and Clothes. He adds, that they are not troubled here with Lightning, and seldom hear Thunder, except at a great distance. They have no Storms of Hail in the Spring, and seldom above 2 or 3 rainy Days together in the Winter, after which the Sky is serene without the least Cloud. The North Winds bring the Clouds and Rain, and the South Winds speedily make all clear. They have no poysonous or ravenous Creatures, except a small sort of Lions, which sometimes prey on their Flocks, but always fly from Men; nor are these Lions numerous, there being only a few of them in the Woods and Desarts. He observes as a peculiar Property of the Air of _Chili_, that no Bugs will live in it, tho’ they swarm in _Cuio_ on the other side of the Mountains. From the whole he infers, that there is no Country in _America_ so agreeable to _European_ Constitutions as _Chili_, and Air and Provisions are so like their own, but rather better.

[Sidenote: _Chili Described._]

The Spring begins about the Middle of our _August_, and lasts till the Middle of _November_; then the Summer holds to the Middle of _February_, the Autumn continues to the Middle of _May_, and the Winter from thence to the Middle of _August_. During this Season the Trees are depriv’d of their Leaves, and the Ground is cover’d with white Frosts, which are dissolved about 2 hours after the Sun rises. The Snow falls seldom in the Vallies, but in great Quantity in the Mountains, from whence it is melted in the Summer, and fructifies the Vallies and Plains with Rivulets. In the Spring the Fields are adorn’d with beautiful Flowers of all Colours and sorts, and of an admirable Scent, from whence they distil a fine Liquid called Angels Water, which makes a noble Perfume. The choicest Flowers and Plants that we cultivate grow wild there; they have Groves of Mustard Trees higher than a Man on Horseback, and the Birds build their Nests in them. They have many Physical Plants and Herbs, with which their _Indian_ Physicians perform wonderful Cures, when the Patients are despair’d of by our _European_ Doctors, but they are very shy of communicating those Secrets. Fruits and Seeds brought hither from _Europe_ thrive very well, but those of _Mexico_ and _Peru_ don’t. They have all our sorts of Fruit in such abundance, that every one may take what they please; so that none is sold, except a sort of extraordinary large Strawberries, which they cultivate. They have Oats, Wheat and Maiz in such plenty, that they are seldom troubled with Want of Grain. Their Pastures are so rich, and their Cattle of all sorts so numerous, that they don’t value the Flesh, but salt the Tongues and Loins, and send ’em to _Peru_ with the Hides and Tallow, which is a great Branch of their Trade. They have Store of noble and generous Wines, both white and red; their Vines are larger, and their Clusters of Grapes much bigger than any in _Europe_. They have also plenty of Olives, Groves of Cocoa Trees of several Leagues long. Almond-trees, and such Store of Silk grass, which they use instead of Hemp, that they furnish all the Coasts of the _South Sea_ with Cordage for their Ships; they have also great Quantities of Annise and Cummin-seed, Salt, Flax, Wool, Leather, Timber, Pitch, Amber, _&c._ So that according to _Ovalle_, Merchants may trade from hence to other Parts in the _South Sea_, and especially to _Lima_, from 100 to 300 _per Cent._ Profit, of which I have also been informed by our Prisoners. Though they have abundance of Mulberry-trees, they breed no Silk-worms; so that the Ladies, who are extravagant in their Apparel, impoverish the Country by purchasing the richest Silks, tho’ they might easily have enough of their own. They have plenty of Bees, yet have their Wax from _Europe_, for want of Industry to improve their own, and they have Pepper and other Spice from the _East Indies_, tho’ they have a kind of Spice of their own, which might very well supply them. He adds, that the Herbage, Fishing, Hunting, Wood for Fuel and Timber, and Salt Mines, are here in common, so that every one may take what they please. They make little use of their Mines of Lead and Quicksilver; for _Peru_ has enough of the latter to purify their Silver. _Ovalle_ says the Gold Mines are so many, that from the Confines of _Peru_ to the Straits of _Magellan_ there is no part of the Country without ’em; but they are not so much follow’d as in _Peru_, and they don’t so much apply themselves to the Silver Mines, because those of Gold are wrought with less charge; their Silver is dug from hard Rocks, ground to Powder in their Mills, and then refin’d with Quicksilver, which is laborious as well as expensive; whereas they have no other trouble with the Gold than to wash the Earth from it; yet sometimes they follow the Veins of Gold through Rocks, when they have hopes that they will grow larger, as they frequently do, and one of these Veins is often enough to enrich the Discoverers. Gold is not dug here in such Plenty, since the War betwixt the _Spaniards_ and _Araucanos_; but the Natives wait for the Winter Rains, which wash it down from the Mountains, into Rivers, Ponds, _&c._ when the Women go into the Water, feel out the Grains with their Toes, and make up as much as supplys their present Necessities, as our Author says, but to me this appears a very odd Way to get Gold. He tells us that he sent one of those Grains to _Seville_, where being touch’d, it was found to be 23 Carats fine, without any manner of Purification. Most of the Bells and great Guns us’d in _Peru_, are made of the Copper of this Country.

[Sidenote: _Chili Described._]

He comes next to give an Account of the Chain of Mountains, named _Cordillera_, from his own Observation, and what he has read in Authors: He says they run from N. to S. from the Province of _Quito_ to the Straits of _Magellan_, which is above a Thousand Leagues, and accounts them the highest Mountains in the World; they are generally 40 Leagues broad, and intermix’d with Abundance of habitable Valleys: These Mountains form 2 Ridges, the lowermost is cover’d with Woods and Groves, but the higher barren, because of the excessive Cold and Snow on them. The most remarkable Animals in these Mountains are, 1. that Species of Hogs which have their Navels on their Backs, call’d Pecarys, these go in great Herds, with each their Leader, and till he be kill’d, ’tis not safe for Hunters to attack them, but when he falls, they immediately disperse. 2. Wild Goats, whose Hair is as soft as Silk, and much us’d for fine Hats. 4. Their Sheep call’d Guanacos, shap’d like Camels, but of a far less Size, with Wool so fine that it is preferr’d to Silk for Softness and Colour. He adds, that the ancient _Yncas_, or Princes, cut two Roads through those Mountains, and if we may believe _Herrera_,[148] one of them was pav’d for 900 Leagues from _Cusco_ to _Chili_, ’twas 25 Foot broad, and at every 4 Leagues, there was a noble Structure, and at each half League Couriers to relieve one another, in carrying Messages from the State. He says, there are still a sort of Inns on this Road, where Travellers find all Necessaries; but the Paths into the Mountains are so narrow, that a single Mule can scarce pass them. The Ascent begins at the very Shore of the Sea, but that which is properly call’d the Mountains, requires three or four Days Journey to the Top of them, where the Air is so very piercing and cold, that he found difficulty to breath, when he pass’d them, so that he and his fellow Travellers were obliged to breath quicker and stronger than ordinary and to apply their Handkerchiefs to their Mouths, to break the extreme Coldness of the Air. _Herrera_ says, That those who pass them from _Peru_ are troubled with Reachings and Vomitings. _Ovalle_ adds, That there are Meteors upon those Mountains sometimes so high in the Air, that they resemble Stars, and at other times so low, that they frighten the Mules and buz about their Ears and Feet. He says, on the Top of those Mountains they can’t see the Country below for Clouds, tho’ the Sky over their Heads is clear and bright, and the Sun shines with admirable Beauty. When he pass’d the highest Part of that which is properly call’d the _Cordillera_, he found no Snow, tho’ in the beginning of Winter, whereas, in the lower Parts, ’twas so deep, that the Mules could scarce travel. He supposes the Reason why there was no Snow on the Top is, that it reaches above the middle Region of the Air. There are 16 Vulcanos in this Chain of Mountains, which sometimes break out with dreadful Effects, cleave the Rocks, and issue great Quantities of Fire, with a Noise resembling Thunder. I refer to our Author for the particular Names and Places of those Vulcanos. He doubts not but there are many rich Mines among those Mountains, tho’ the Natives industriously conceal them, and make it Death to discover them, which has defeated several Attempts of that Nature by the _Spaniards_. The Natives have no occasion for those Mines themselves, because they have Plenty of Provisions, which is all they desire, and they are afraid that such Discoveries will occasion the _Spaniards_ to dispossess them, or to make them work in the Mines as Slaves. He concludes this Head with an Account that very rich Mines were discover’d at the Foot of those Mountains on the side of _Cuio_.

Those Mountains of the _Cordillera_ are passable only in Summer, or in the Beginning of the Winter. There are frightful Precipices, and deep Rivers, at the sides of the narrow Passes, which frequently occasions the Loss of Mules and Travellers. The Streams run with such Violence, and so far below the Roads, that to look at them turns ones Head. The Ascents and Descents are so steep, that they are difficult to pass on Foot, but the Irksomeness of the Way is alleviated by the beautiful Cascades which the Water naturally forms as it falls from the Rocks and Mountains; and in some of the Valleys the Water springs up to a great Height, like Fountains made by Art, amongst odoriferous Plants and Flowers, which make an Agreeable Prospect. All these Streams and Springs are so very cool, that a Man can’t drink above 2 or 3 Sips at once, nor hold his Hand in them above a Minute. In some Places there are hot Springs, good against many Distempers, and leave a green Tincture in the Channels thro’ which they run. One of those Rivers, call’d _Mendoca_, has a natural Bridge of Rock over it, from the Vault of which there hangs several Pieces of Stone, resembling Salt, which congeal like Icecles, as the Water drops from the Rock, and are form’d into several Shapes and Colours. This Bridge is broad enough for 3 or 4 Carts to pass a-breast. There’s another Bridge near this, call’d the _Yncas_, laid over by Art, betwixt 2 Rocks, as some say, but our Author thinks it is the Work of Nature: It is so very high from the River, that he could not hear the Stream, which runs with great Rapidity, and though it be a large River, it appear’d like a Brook when he look’d down from the Bridge, which he could not do without being struck with Horror.

[Sidenote: _Chili Described._]

[Sidenote: _Chili Described._]

He comes next to describe the particular Rivers which run from these Mountains; but I shall only mention the chief of them; and tho’ most of them don’t run above 30 Leagues, yet some of them, towards their Mouths, are navigable by Ships of the greatest Burthen. The first is that which rises in the Confines of _Peru_, about S. Lat. 25. ’tis call’d the River of Salt, because ’tis so salt that it can’t be drank, and petrifies what’s thrown into it. 2. _Copiapo_, which rises in Lat. 26. runs 20 Leagues from E. to W. and forms a Bay and a Harbour, at its Entrance into the Sea. 3. _Guasco_ rises in Lat. 28. and forms likewise a Bay and Harbour. 4. The River of _Coquimbo_, which rises in Lat. 30, forms a noble Bay and a Port, with beautiful Myrtles, and other Trees on the Bank, that make a noble and a pleasant Grove. 5. _Aconcagua_, a large deep River that rises about Lat. 33. runs thro’ several fruitful Valleys. 6. _Maypo_ rises about Lat. 33 and a half. It is so rapid, that it admits no Bridge but one made of Cables; it enters the Sea with so much Force, that its Waters form a Circle, and are distinguished a great Way. It is brackish, noted for excellent Trouts, and the Sheep which feed on its Banks, afford Mutton of a curious Relish. There are several other Rivers which fall into it; the first is, that of St. _Jago_, alias _Mapocho_; ’tis divided into several Streams, to water the District of St. _Jago_, which sometimes it over-flows: Not far from the City it sinks under Ground, and rises again in a Grove, about 2 or 3 Leagues distant. 2. The River _Poangue_, its Water is extraordinary clear and sweet, and flowing thro’ Veins of Metal, very much helps Digestion. It runs for several Leagues under Ground, fructifies the Valley which lies over it, and produces excellent Corn and Melons. The Banks of this River are adorn’d with beautiful Trees. 3. The Rivers _Decollina_ and _Lampa_, which unite together within 10 or 12 Leagues off their Rise, and form the noted Lake of _Cudagues_. It is so deep, that great Vessels may sail in it, is about 2 Leagues long, and its Banks cover’d with Trees that are verdant all the Year. It abounds with excellent Trouts and Smelts, which are a great Conveniency to the City of St. _Jago_. 7. _Rapel_ is nothing inferior to _Maypo_, enters the Sea about Lat. 34. and a half, and receives several other rapid Streams. The adjacent Country has excellent Pastures for fattening of Cattle. 8. _Delora_ rises in Lat. 34 three quarters, and is exactly like the former. 9. _Maul_, a great River, which rises in Lat. 35. and bounds the Jurisdiction of St. _Jago_. The Natives call all the Country betwixt those Rivers, _Promocaes, i.e._ a Place of Dancing and Delight, which our Author says is very just, for he never saw a more pleasant Country, nor one better furnish’d with Provisions of all sorts. The _Spaniards_ have many noble Farms in these Parts. Near the Mouth of this River, there’s a Dock for building of Ships, and a Ferry belonging to the King for the Conveniency of Passengers. 10. _Itata_; ’tis 3 times as large and deep as the _Maul_, and enters the Sea about Lat. 36. In most Places they pass it on Rafts, and in some it is fordable. 11. _Andalien_, a River which runs slow, and enters the spacious and pleasant Bay of _Conception_, at Lat. 36 three quarters. There’s another small River, which runs through the middle of the City of _Conception_, a little above which it falls from a high Rock, and gives the Inhabitants an Opportunity to form all sorts of Water-works from it, among pleasant Groves of Lawrels, Myrtles, and other odoriferous Plants. 12. _Biobio_, a famous River, which enters the Sea, in Lat. 37. ’tis the largest in _Chili_, and is from 2 to 3 Mile broad at its Mouth. Our Author says its Waters run thro’ Veins of Gold, and Fields of Sarsaparilla, which make them very wholesom, and good against several Distempers. This River is the Boundary betwixt the _Indians_ who are Friends to the _Spaniards_, and those who are their Enemies, and make frequent Incursions upon them. This obliges the _Spaniards_ to keep many Garrisons in those Parts, but the Natives trust to their Mountains. This River swells so much in the Winter, that it becomes unpassable, and occasions a Cessation of Arms on both sides. These People, says _Ovalle_, have given the _Spaniards_ more trouble than all the other Natives of _America_; so that they are forced to maintain 12 Forts, well provided with Men and Cannon, besides the City of _Conception_ and _Chillam_, to over-aw the Natives. 13. _Imperial_, a pleasant River, which falls into the Sea, about Lat. 39. after having receiv’d many other Rivers, and among ’em two which run into the famous Lake of _Buren_, where the _Indians_ have an impregnable Fortress. 24. _Tolten_, about 30 Miles from the River _Imperial_, is deep enough for great Ships, where it enters the Sea. 15. About 8 Leagues farther, the River _Quenale_ enters the Sea, and is capable of small Barks. 16. _Valdivia_, so called from _Pedro de Valdivia_, one of the Conquerors and Governors of _Chili_, who built a Port and City, near the Mouth of it, where great Ships may come up about 3 Leagues from the Sea. This River opens to the North, and over-against the City lies the pleasant Island of _Constantine_, with two others; the River is navigable on both sides of the Island, but deepest on the South side. 17. _Chilo_, which rises from a Lake at the Foot of the _Cordillera_, where there are Baths good against the Leprosy and other Distempers. Our Author says so little of the Rivers on the East side of the _Cordillera_, that we pass them over.

_Ovalle_ gives an Account of many remarkable Fountains, both hot and cold, good against most Distempers; but I shall not insist on them. He says, they have many Sea Lakes or Bays, which bring great Profit to the Owners, because their Fisheries are more certain than those of the Sea; and furnish most part of the Lenten Fair to the Inhabitants, and in the hot Season abundance of Salt.

He adds, that in the Valley of _Lampa_, near St. _Jago_, there’s an Herb, about a Foot high, resembling Sweet _Basil_. In Summer it is cover’d with Grains of Salt, like Pearl, which is more savoury, and has a finer Flavour than any other Salt. Our Author comes next to treat of the Fertility of the Coast, which, he says, among other Fish produces Shell-Fish in greater Quantities, larger than any where else, and 1. Oisters, valuable both for their Meat and Pearls. 2. Choros, a fine Sort of Shell-fish, which also breed Pearl. 3. Manegues, which have 2 round Shells, the inside of which resembles Mother of Pearl. In short, he says, the Sea throws up Shell-fish, in such Quantities, upon some Parts of the Coast, that Ships may be loaded with them, and their Shells are of such Variety of Colours and Shapes, that our _European_ Virtusos might from hence have a curious Collection, whereas the _Indians_ only burn them for Chalk. There are other Sorts of Fish on these Coasts, some of which they call Sea-Stars, others Suns and Moons, because they resemble those Planets, as they are usually painted, which are common elsewhere, but not so large as here. These Fish reduc’d into Powder, and drank in Wine, are an infallible Remedy against Drunkenness, and frequently us’d for that end, because it creates an Abhorrence of Wine in those who drink it, says our Author. He adds, that great Quantities of Amber are found on this Coast, particularly, the grey sort, which is the best. They have all other sorts of Fish, common to us in _Europe_, besides others, peculiar to themselves.

He comes next to their Birds, and besides those which are common in _Europe_, there are 1. Flamencos, bigger than Turkeys, their Feathers of a white and scarlet Colour, of which the Natives make Ornaments, and their Legs are so long that they walk thro’ Lakes and Ponds. 2. The Child Bird, so call’d, because they look like a swadled Child, with its Arms at Liberty: They are very good Meat. 3. Airones, so much valued for the Feathers, to make Tufts, that formerly, they say, every Feather upon their Heads cost 2 Reals. These Birds are rare. There are others call’d Garcolos, whose Feathers are generally us’d by Soldiers. 4. Voycas, from whose Notes the _Indians_ pretend to foretel Death, Sickness, or other Misfortunes; the Feathers on their Breasts are of a deep scarlet Colour, and the rest brown. 5. Pinguedas, their Body is of the size of an Almond; they feed upon Flowers, and shine like polish’d Gold, mix’d with green; the Males have a lively Orange Colour, like Fire on their Heads, and the Tails of those Birds are a Foot long, and 2 Inches broad. 6. Condores, which are white as Ermin; their Skins are extreme soft and warm, and therefore us’d as Gloves. They have abundance of Ostriches, and Variety of Hawks in this Country.

_Ovalle_ comes next to treat of their Beasts. He says, they had no Cows, Horses, Sheep, Hogs, House-Cats, nor common Dogs of any sort, Goats, Asses, or Rabbits, till they were brought hither by the _Spaniards_, but now all these are increas’d to a wonderful Degree by the Richness of their Country and Pasture, so that one Cow frequently yields 150 lb Weight of Tallow. _Herrera_ says, that when the _Spaniards_ came first hither, a Horse was commonly sold for 1000 Crowns, but now they are so plenty that they send them yearly to _Peru_. The most remarkable Animals, which are not common with us, are, 1. Their Sheep, mention’d before, shap’d like Camels, tho’ not so large: The Natives us’d them for Ploughing and Carriage, before they had _European_ Cattle: Their upper Lips are slit, with which they spit at those who vex them, and wherever their Spittle falls, it causes a Scab. They govern’d them by a kind of Bridle put thro’ their Ears, and they would kneel like Camels, to take on their Burden. 2. Wild Goats, which very much resemble those Sheep, but are all of a red clear Colour, so very swift that they out-run Horses, and are never to be tamed. They feed in great Herds, and are hunted by Dogs, which easily catch the young ones, that are excellent Meat. The Flesh of the old ones, dried and smoaked, is reckon’d the best of its kind. These Creatures, especially the oldest, have Bezoar Stones, in a Bag under their Belly. Our Author says, he brought one of those Stones to _Italy_, which weigh’d 32 Ounces, and was as perfect an Oval as if it had been form’d by a Turner; he gave the _Indian_ who found it 70 Pieces of 8 for it.

[Sidenote: _Chili Described._]