A Cruising Voyage Around the World

Part 31

Chapter 313,888 wordsPublic domain

The present Habit generally wore by the Natives of this Country is a short Doublet and wide Breeches, a Cloak of several Colours on their Shoulders, which they cross under the Right Arm, and tye on the Left Shoulder by the 2 Ends in a great Knot: Some wear Sandals, the rest go bare footed and bare-legg’d, and all wear their Hair long, which they will by no means part with. The Women wear a fine white Cotton Cloth, and under it a thing like a Sack; they wear another upon their Backs, with which they cover their Heads when abroad or in Church. The Natives adorn their narrow Coats with Figures of Beasts, Birds and Feathers. Both Sexes are of a dark Colour, but endeavour to make themselves fair with pounded Herbs. They daub their Heads with thin Clay, to refresh them, and make their Hair black. The Mestizzo, Mullatto, and black Women, are most in Number, but not being allow’d to wear Veils, or the _Spanish_ Habit, and despising the _Indian_ Garb, they wear a thing like a Petticoat a-cross their Shoulders, or on their Heads, which makes ’em look like so many Devils. The Blacks and Mullattoes are very insolent, and so much increas’d, that if it ben’t prevented, they may at one time or other endanger the Country. The _Indians_ of most Parts of _Mexico_ are nothing so industrious as formerly, and the _Spaniards_ say they are cowardly, cruel, Thieves, Cheats, and so beastly, that they use Women in common, without regard to the nearest Relations, lie on the bare Ground, and are nasty in their Way of living, which perhaps may proceed from the Slavery they are kept under, being worse treated than those

[Sidenote: _Mexico Described._]

in the Mines. He adds that there’s scarce one fair dealing Man to be found among 100 Mullattoes.

_Acapulco_ lies in Lat. 17. bating some few Minutes, he says it is rather like a poor Village of Fishermen, than fit to be the chief Mart of the _South Sea_, and Port for _China_. The Houses are mean, built of Wood, Mud and Straw, it is cover’d by high Mountains on the East side, and very subject to Distempers from _November_ till the End of _May_, during which time they have no Rain, or very little. ’Tis as hot here in _January_, as in our Dog-days; they are much pester’d with Gnats and Earthquakes. He observes that it never rains in _New Spain_ in a Morning. This Town is dirty, and ill furnish’d with Provisions, so that a Man can scarce live for a Piece of Eight _per_ Day. Most of the Inhabitants are Blacks and Mullattoes, for the _Spanish_ Merchants are gone as soon as their Business is over at the Fair, for Goods brought hither from _China_ and _Peru_. It has nothing good but the Harbour, which is surrounded with High Mountains, and the Ships are moar’d to Trees that grow on the Shore. It has two Mouths, the small one at N.W. and the great at S.E. The Mouth is defended by 42 Brass Cannon. The Castellan, who is chief Magistrate during the Fair, has 20000 Pieces of 8, from the Duties paid in the Harbour, and the Comptroller and other Officers as much; the Curate has 14000 _per Ann._ tho’ the King allows him but 180, but he exacts terribly on Baptisms and Burials, so that he will scarce bury a rich Merchant under 1000. The Trade of this Place being for many Millions, every one, in his Profession gets a great deal in a short time; for a Black will scarce work for less than a Piece of 8 _per diem_, All the Dependance of the Inhabitants is on the Port, which also maintains the Hospitals, Monasteries and Missionaries.

During the Fair, this Town resembles a populous City, because of the great Concourse of Merchants from _Peru_ and _Mexico_; then the miserable Huts, in which there was nothing before but a few nasty Mullattoes, are fill’d with gay _Spaniards_, and rich Merchants, and the very Porters do generally earn 3 Pieces of 8 _per Diem_, by loading and unloading of Goods, _&c._ but when this Trade is over, the Porters make a sort of a Funeral, carry one of their Number about upon a Bier, and pretend to bewail his Death, because their Harvest for Gain is then at an End, till the next Year.

I shall not here say any thing further of the Seaports of _Mexico_, because the Reader will find them in the Appendix, which gives a full Account of all the noted Harbours in the South Sea, but shall add, that the Trade of _Mexico_, on this Coast, is very little, compar’d with that of _Peru_, because those of the former have their Goods brought to their chief Ports in the N. Sea, directly from _Europe_; so that except when the two Ships come yearly from _Manila_ to _Acapulco_, they have little Commerce in this Sea. I must here observe, that the Ships which come from _Manila_ use to be much richer than our Prize; for she waited a long time for the _Chinese_ Junks to bring Silk, which not arriving, she came away with a Cargo mix’d with abundance of coarse Goods. The Prisoners told me, that the _Manila_ Ship did often return from _Acapulco_, with 10 Millions of Dollars, and that the Officers never clear’d less than from 20 to 30000 Dollars each in a Voyage; and the Captain, whom they call General, seldom got less than 150 or 200000 Pieces of 8; so that it would have been an extraordinary Prize, could we have met with them at the Time.

I think it proper to observe here, because it belongs to the Subject, that when we arrived at the _Texel_ in _Holland_, there were two _Spanish_ Ships there, bound for _Cadiz_, and on board of one of ’em a Sailor, who told us he was aboard the large _Spanish_ Ship from _Manila_, when she arriv’d at _Acapulco_, very much disabled by the Engagement she had with us off of _California_; that ’twas the Gunner who made them engage us so resolutely at first, and forced them to continue the Fight by keeping in the Powder-Room himself, and having taken the Sacrament to blow up the Ship in case we had boarded and over-power’d her. I was the more apt to believe this Man had seen the Ship, and this Story might be true, because he related almost every Passage of the Fight, as I have given it before in my Journal.

[Sidenote: _Mexico Described._]

I shall also take Notice here that Capt. _Stradling_, who was taken Prisoner in _America_, when his Ship stranded, and came off Prisoner in a French Ship, some Months after we left the South Seas, inform’d me, that the Corregidore of _Guiaquil_ sent an Express to _Lima_, upon the first Notice of our being in those Parts, that they then apprehended us to be part of a Squadron of Men of War, and therefore lay still until they had certain Advice of our Strength, and in about 3 Weeks after we took the Town, they fitted out 3 _Spanish_ Men of War, which was all their South Sea Strength, against us; the biggest carried not above 32 Guns, but they were join’d by 2 _French_ Ships, one of 50, and the other of 36 Guns, and all well Mann’d. They stop’d at _Payta_, till Mr. _Hatley_ and his 4 Men, who lost Company with us at the _Gallapagos_ Islands, being in want of Provisions, and having had no Water for 14 Days, stood in for the Main, and landed near Cape _Passao_, almost under the Equinox, among a barbarous sort of People, who are a mix’d Breed of _Negroes_ and _Indians_. They voluntarily surrendered themselves, being in a starving Condition, yet those Brutish People, instead of giving them Food, tied their Hands, then whipp’d them and hang’d them up, so that they must unavoidably have lost their Lives, had not a Padre, who liv’d in the Neighbourhood, came time enough by good Providence, to cut ’em down, and save them. There are several Letters from Mr. _Hatley_ since, which signify that he is a Prisoner at _Lima_. Capt. _Stradling_ likewise told me that the _French_ Ship, which brought him to _Europe_, was the very Ship that we chas’d in sight of _Falkland_ Island, before we passed Cape _Horn_. She had before attempted to sail round Cape _Horn_, to the South Sea; but it being the wrong Season, she met with bad Weather, and was forc’d to bear away to recruit at the River of _La Plata_, and there wait for a more proper Season to go round _Terra del Fuego_, into the South Sea. When we chas’d her, she had not above 100 healthful Men on board, so that had we been able to come up with her, she must certainly have been our Prize.

Capt. _Stradling_ told me they ran their Ship on an Island, and afterwards surrendered Prisoners to the _Spaniards_, to save their Lives, she being ready to sink; so that the Report I formerly mention’d, that part of their Crew was drown’d in the Ship, proves a Mistake.

In _Mexico_, the Prisoners who are employ’d in cutting Logwood, have no way to escape the Cruelty of the _Spaniards_, but to turn Papists, and be baptized after their Manner; then they have the Liberty to chuse a Godfather, who is generally a Man of Note, and they serve him as Liverymen, _&c._ One _Boyse_, who fled to us at _Guiaquil_, was baptized thus by an Abbot, in the Cathedral of _Mexico_, had Salt put in his Mouth, and Oil poured upon his Head, and small parcells of Cotton, which rub’d it off, were distributed as precious Relicks among the Penitents, because taken off the Head of a converted Heretick, as they call them. The native _Spaniards_ enjoy all the Posts in the Church and Monasteries, and admit no _Indians_, nor any mix’d Breed, to those Preferments; which they think a necessary Piece of Policy, that they may the better keep the Country in Subjection to _Spain_. Some of these Prisoners who are forced to be pretended Converts, do now and then make their _Escape_, tho’ it be dangerous to attempt it, for if taken they are generally confin’d to the Workhouses for Life. There are several _Englishmen_ who were Prisoners in this Country, that, by Compliance, have obtain’d their Liberty, with the Loss of their Religion in exchange for Riches; particularly one _Thomas Bull_, who was born in _Dover_, and taken in _Campeche_; he is a Clock-maker, has been 18 Years there, is about 45 Years old, lives in the Province of _Tabasco_, and grown very rich. One Capt. _James Thompson_, born in the Isle of _Wight_, has been there about 20 Years, is about 50 Years old, grown rich, and commanded the Mullattoes who took Capt. _Packe_, at the Beginning of the War. The Person who told me this was a Comb-maker, and endeavour’d to escape from _La Vera Crux_, but was taken, and sent Prisoner to _Mexico_, where he came off to _Peru_, after he had his Liberty, by pretending he went to buy Ivory to make Combs; he gave me a long Account of his Ramble amongst the _Indians_, and says, he was at the Mouth of the River _Missisippi_, which falls into the Gulph of _Mexico_, but could not pass it: He adds, That the _Indians_, on the Bay of _Pillachi_, have murder’d several of the Padres, out of an Aversion to the _Spaniards_, but show a great Inclination to trade with the _English_. There are other _Englishmen_ who now live near the Bay of _Campeche_, as I was inform’d; one of ’em is _Tho. Falkner_, he was born at the Hen and Chickens in _Pall-mall_, where his Friends kept an Alehouse. He is married to an _Indian_ Woman. Such of them as won’t comply to turn Papists are kept in miserable Slavery, either in the Mines or Workhouses at _Mexico_, which City he says, is about as large as _Bristol_. Those that are put in Workhouses are chain’d and imploy’d in carding Wool, rasping Logwood, _&c._ They have more Manufactures of Woollen and Linnen in _Mexico_ than in _Peru_. Abundance of raw Silk is brought from _China_, and of late Years worked up into rich Brocades equal to any made in _Europe_.

[Sidenote: _Mexico Described._]

The _Mullattoes_ and _Indians_, on light Occasions, are put into the Workhouses, and kept there, till they pay their Debts or Tribute; but no _Spaniards_, except for the worst of Crimes: There are many _Englishmen_, who were taken cutting Logwood in the Bay of _Campeche_, in several of these Workhouses, kept at hard Labour, and will end their Days in Slavery, unless their Liberty be demanded by her Majesty at the general Peace.

There’s abundance of Sheep in this Country, which yield excellent Wool, of which, I am inform’d, the _English_ Prisoners have taught them to make Cloth, worth about 15_s._ a Yard in _England_, which there yields 8 Pieces of 8; They have also taught them to make Bays and other coarse Woollen.

At _Chopa_ in _Mexico_, about Lat. 12. N. there’s a great River which sinks into the Earth at once, runs under the Mountains, and rises _bigger_ about 15 Leagues from the Place where it sunk. ’Tis twice as large as the _Thames_. This River afterwards joins that of _Tabasco_, and falls into the North Sea, as most of the great Rivers of this vast Continent do, he told me, about this Place. There are high Mountains, with Plains on the Top, where the Air is very temperate, and all our _European_ Fruits grow; whereas at the Bottom of these Mountains they have none but the Fruits of hot Climates, tho’ ’tis not above 5 Leagues asunder.

There are also Woods of Pines, _&c._ on those Mountains, among which there are Flocks of harmonious Birds, which sing together in an agreeable Consort, that resembles a fine Organ, so that Strangers are amaz’d to hear such Musick strike up of a sudden in the Woods. There’s also a strange Creature in those Woods, call’d by the _Spaniards_ an Ounce, much of the Form and Size of a Woolf-dog; but it has Talons, and the Head is more like that of a Tyger: It kills Men and Beasts, which makes travelling through the Woods dangerous; ’tis said to eat nothing but the Heart of its Prey.

I had many more Relations from this Man, who had been 7 Years a Prisoner in this Country; but they being too tedious, I shall add nothing more concerning _Mexico_, but that the Worm is larger, and eats the Bottoms of the Ships more on its Sea-Coasts, than any other Place where we were. All the Coast from _Guiaquil_ in _Peru_ to the Northward, as far as the Latitude of 20 in _Mexico_, ’tis reckon’d unhealthful, but the contrary from _Guiaquil_ to the Southward.

Peru _Described_.

I Shall not trouble the Reader with the History of its Conquest by the _Spaniards_, nor the fabulous Stories of its _Incas_ or Princes, the Curious may find them in the _Spanish_ Writers, and for the Natives, they are much the same as those I have described in other Parts.

* * * * *

_PERU_, properly so called, is about 1000 Leagues long, but the Breadth various, from 100 to 300 Leagues. The best known Part of it lies on the _South Sea_, and is divided into the 3 Audiences of _Quito_ in the North, _Lima_ in the Middle, and _La Plata_ in the South. The Air of _Quito_ is temperate enough, tho’ under the Line; the Soil is fruitful, abounds with Cattle and Corn, and they have Mines of Gold, Silver, Quick-silver and Copper; they have also Emeralds and Medicinal Drugs. The Audience of _Lima_ is most noted, because of its Capital of the same Name, being the Residence of the Viceroy of _Peru_. This Country abounds with Mines of Gold, Silver, Quicksilver, Vermilion, and Salt. The Audience of _La Plata_ I have already described in my Account of that River. I shall only add, that tho’ the Silver Mines of _Potosi_ be much decay’d, yet some say the King of _Spain_ has annually about 2 Millions of Crowns _per Annum_ for his Fifth; and that those of _La Plata_ and _Porco_, in the same Province, which were, upon discovery of the Mines of _Potosi_, less used, may probably be open’d again to advantage; now Goods are sold so cheap by the continual Supplies from _France_, that the _Indians_, who were imploy’d in the Manufactures, must again work at the Mines, their own coarse Goods being brought thither cheaper than they can make ’em.

[Sidenote: _Peru Described._]

The _Spanish_ Writers in general say, that for 500 Leagues in Length, from _Tumbez_ to _Chili_, it never thunders, lightens nor rains, which agrees with the Informations that I had from our Prisoners, _viz._ that from Cape _Blanco_ in S. Lat. 4. to _Coquimbo_, Lat. 30. it never rains, but the Want of this is supply’d by great Dews, so that they have as good Corn and Fruit, particularly Wheat, about _Truxillo_, as any in _Europe_. In the Vallies near the Sea the Climate is hot, but temper’d with Breezes from the Ocean and Mountains. In the Hilly part, far into the Country, ’tis Winter, and very rainy, when ’tis Summer in the Plains, though in the same Latitude. The Product, Beasts and Birds, being much the same with other Parts of the _South Sea_ Coast, I shall not insist upon ’em.

They have their Cordage, Cotton, Cloth, Pitch and Tar from _Chili_ and _Rio Lezo_ in _Mexico_, and tho’ the Country abounds with Provision, ’tis always dear near the Mines, because there Husbandry is neglected. The Cordage they use is made of coarse Silk Grass, which is very tough, draws small when strain’d, but grows twice as big when slack’d.

Capt. _Stradling_ told me he travel’d the great Road from _Quito_ towards _Cusco_, in his way to _Lima_, which has Piles of Stone on each side for some hundreds of Miles. When he and his Men were brought Prisoners to _Lima_, the _Spaniards_ put them in a close Dungeon, used them very barbarously, and threaten’d to send them to the Mines, because he attempted his Escape, and sail’d in a Canoe from _Lima_ towards _Panama_, near 400 Leagues, intending to cross the Isthmus, and to get to _Jamaica_ by some of our trading Sloops, but was taken and brought back to _Lima_. Before he came thence he saw several of the _Spaniards_, who had been our Prisoners, and said, they all own’d we had treated them very civilly, which has in part taken off the bad Impression they had conceiv’d of the _English_ in those Parts; for not being used to War, they account all alike that come to cruize, because of the unheard of Cruelties and Debaucheries which were committed about 25 Years ago by the Buccaneers in those Parts, which their Priests did improve to give them an ill Idea of all those they think fit to call Hereticks, not considering that most of those Disorders were committed by _French_ Buccaneers of their own Religion.

Having said so much of _Peru_ in several Parts of my Journal, I need not enlarge upon it here; the Spaniards extend it from _Panama_ to _Coquimbo_, which is about 800 Leagues, but the Breadth various. The Gold Mines are most of ’em in the North Parts, betwixt _Panama_ and the Equinox.

Before the _French_ traded hither round Cape _Horne_, there was a considerable Commerce from _Panama_ to all the Ports of the _South Sea_, as I noted before; but now they have supplied the Country so much with _European_ Goods, and so cheap, that this Trade is in a manner sunk; so that from hence forward there will be little sent over Land from _Panama_ to the North Sea, but the King’s Revenue. The _Spaniards_ have a great many Ships and small Vessels belonging to the several Ports of _Peru_, which are chiefly imploy’d in carrying Timber, Salt, Salt-fish, Wine, Brandy, Oil, and other Commodities, from one part of the Coast to another, without which they could not well subsist; for this Country is laid to be more populous and better inhabited than _Mexico_. They make Woollen Cloth here of several sorts; I have seen some made at _Quito_ worth about 8_s._ _per_ Yard, that is sold here for 5 Dollars. The _Indians_ do likewise make a coarse sort of Cotton Cloth; but since the _French_ furnish them better and cheaper, those Manufactures will come to nothing, and the People must betake themselves to digging of Mines, or what other Imployment they can get.

The _Spanish_ Settlements in this Country, as well as in _Mexico_ and _Chili_, are not so full of _Indians_ as formerly; for many of ’em are gone to remote Parts, and live in Colonies by themselves, to avoid the Slavery and Taxes impos’d on them by the _Spaniards_, for they were oblig’d to pay from 8 to 14 Dollars _per Ann._ _per_ Head to the King, which had it been duly collected and faithfully paid, would have amounted to the greatest Poll Tax in the World; but ’tis now lessen’d by the removal of so many Natives as abovemention’d, and the Impoverishment of the rest, who are sensible enough of their Oppression, but are so dispirited, that they can do nothing to assert their Liberty, and they are besides kept under by the Artifices of the Priests.

The _Spaniards_ here are very profuse in their Clothing and Equipage, and affect to wear the most costly things that can be purchas’d; so that those who trade hither with such Commodities as they want, may be sure to have the greatest Share of their Wealth.

Chili _describ’d_.

[Sidenote: _Chili Described._]

I come next to the Kingdom of _Chili_, which lies nearest to those who shall think fit to attempt a Trade from _England_ into the _South Sea_. Father _Ovalle_, a Native of this Country, and Procurator for it at _Rome_, agrees with our Maps, that it lies farthest South of any part of _America_ on that call’d the _South_ or _Pacifick Sea_. He bounds it with _Peru_ on the North, the Straits of _Magellan_ on the South, _Paraguay_, _Tucuman_, and _Patagonia_ on the East, and the _South Sea_ on the West. He begins it at S. Latitude 25, and extends it to Lat. 59, which is near 500 Leagues. The Breadth of it varies, and the broadest Place from East to West he makes about 150 Leagues, tho’ _Chili_ properly so call’d is not above 20 or 30 Leagues broad, from the Chain of Mountains named _Cordillera_ to the _South Sea_; but when the King of _Spain_ divided _America_ into particular Governments, he added to _Chili_ the vast Plains of _Cuio_, which are of an equal Length, and twice as broad as _Chili_ it self. The Country in general _Ovalle_ places in the 3_d_, 4_th_ and 5_th_ Climates; the longest Day in the 3_d_ is 13 Hours, and in the 5_th_ above 14.

The first _European_ who took possession of it was _Don Diego d’Almagro_, a _Spaniard_, in 1535. He is said to march hither from _Peru_ by Order of the King of _Spain_, with a Body of _Spanish_ Troops and 15000 _Indians_ and Blacks commanded by some _Indian_ Princes, who had submitted to the _Spaniards_. I shall not trouble the Reader with the particular History of the _Spanish_ Conquests till they reduced this Country, which they may find at large in _Ovalle_, _Herrera_, and others; but shall only say in general, that it was not totally in subjection to the _Spaniards_ till the Year 1640, when the Inhabitants submitted to the Crown of _Spain_, on Condition that they should not be given in Property as Slaves. The _Spaniards_, who sufficiently experienc’d the Valour of this People, treat them with more Civility than they do the rest of the _Americans_, on purpose to keep them in Obedience, and for the most part they have submitted to the Church of _Rome_.

The _Sansons_ say that _Chili_, in the Language of the Country, signifies Cold, which is so excessive in the Mountains call’d _Sierra Nevada_, a part of the _Cordillera_, that it freezes Men and Cattle to Death, and keeps their Corps from Putrefaction; so that _Almagro_ lost a great many of his Men and Horses as he past those Mountains. But the Vallies toward the Sea are very healthful, the Climate temperate, and the Soil excellent and fruitful, tho’ with some difference, according as it lies nearer or further from the Equator; but the Coasts are subject to strong Gales of Wind.