Part 26

We saw in all (some that we searched and others that we viewed at a Distance, at both times) no less than 50, but none that had the least Appearance of fresh Water. The _Spanish_ Reports agree that there is but one that has any; which lies about Lat. 1°. 30´´. S. Sen. _Morell_ tells me, that a _Spanish_ Man of War employed to cruize for Pyrates, was once at an Island that lies by it self in the Lat. 1°. 20 or 30´´. S. They call it _S. Maria de l’Aquada_, a pleasant Island and good Road, full of Wood, and Plenty of Water and Turtle, of both sorts, with Fish, _&c._ lying about 140 _Spanish_ Leagues West from the Island _Plata_, but I believe it’s at least 30 Leagues more, and that it’s no other but the same Island, where Capt. _Davis_ the _English_ Buccaneer recruited, and all the Light he has left to find it again is, that it lies to the Westward of those Islands he was at with the other Buccaneers, which as I have before examin’d, can be no other than these Islands we have been twice at. We had no occasion to look for this Island the second Trip, tho’ I believe it’s easy to find it without farther Directions. Here’s most sorts of Sea Birds amongst these Islands and some Land Birds, particularly Hawks of several sorts, and Turtle Doves, both so very tame that we often hit them down with Sticks. I saw no sort of Beasts; but there are Guanas in abundance, and Land Turtle almost on every Island: ’Tis strange how the latter got here, because they can’t come of themselves, and none of that sort are to be found on the Main. Seals haunt some of these Islands, but not so numerous, nor their Fur so good as at _Juan Fernando’s_. A very large one made at me 3 several times, and had I not happen’d to have a Pike-staff pointed with Iron in my Hand, I might have been kill’d by him; (one of our Men having narrowly escap’d the Day before.) I was on the level Sand when he came open-mouth’d at me out of the Water, as quick and fierce as the most angry Dog let loose. I struck the Point into his Breast, and wounded him all the three times he made at me, which forc’d him at last to retire with an ugly Noise, snarling and shewing his long Teeth at me out of the Water: This amphibious Beast was as big as a large Bear.

_Sept. 22._ The _Marquiss_ had sprung a large Leak, for want of good Caulking at first in _Gorgona_: I went aboard with our Carpenter, who assisted theirs, and with a Piece of Lead nail’d over the Leak (being in the Water’s Edge) soon stopt it, and we made Sail again in a little time. Wind at S. by E. We had a good Observation. N. Lat. 6°. 9´´. Every Day as we leave the Equinoctial more distant the Heat encreases very much.

[Sidenote: _Arrival at the Island Tres Marias._]

_October 1._ Yesterday we made the main Land of _Mexico_; it bore N. E. distant about 10 Leagues. We hoisted out our Yawl, and fetch’d aboard Capt. _Cooke_, and his Lieutenant Mr. _Pope_, Capt. _Courtney_ and Capt. _Dampier_; the latter says he knows this high Land; but the Latt. directs us all to know it. Capt. _Dampier_, near this Place, five Years past, met the _Manila_ Ship in the St. _George_, and had a Fight at a Distance, but he says for want of Men could not board her, and after a short Dispute, was forced to let her alone. We hall’d off the Shore, W. N. W. not caring to be near enough to be seen from the Land, to allarm the Coast too soon. We had often Showers of Rain, Wind at S.S.E.

_Octob. 2._ Most part of this 24 Hours we had Squalls and then little Wind at S.S.E. intermixt with sultry hot Weather. Our Men begin to be unhealthy again, two having lately dropt down on the Deck, but after bleeding came pretty well to themselves. We agreed with our Consort to lie by from 8 at Night till day break. At Noon it clear’d up, and we saw the Land, at least 8 Leagues off, tho’ we seem’d just under it, it was so very high. We made Cape _Corientes_ bearing N.E. about 8 Leagues, by which we judge according to our Observation at Noon, that it lies in Lat. 20°. 10´´. N. We know it to be Cape _Corientes_, because we could see no Land to the Northward of it, and that it was a Head-land. Capt. _Dampier_ has been here also, but it’s a long Time ago. We all agreed it was the Cape, and that we had best hall off N. W. to look for the Islands _Tres Marias_, which are not far from this Cape, but we are not certain of their Situation.

_Octob. 4._ Yesterday Afternoon, at 4, the Cape bore E. N. E. about 10 Leagues. We kept on under an easy Sail all Night. In the Morning we saw 2 Islands, being very clear Weather, at least 14 Leagues distant, one bearing N. by W. and the other N. by E. At Noon we had a good Observation. Lat. 20°. 45´´. N.

Tho’ our Men have their Fill of Land and Sea Turtle, which keeps them from the Scurvy, yet I find them weak, it being but a faintly Food, except they had sufficient Bread or Flower with it, they having but a Pound and a Quarter of Bread or Flower, for five Men a Day, to prolong our Stock of Bread against we come to live wholly on our salt Provisions, and then must be forced to allow more.

_Octob. 6._ In the Morning we sent Lieutenant _Frye_ in the Pinnace ashore on the Eastermost Island, to try whether there was any good Road or convenience for us to recruit there. At 9 they return’d, and told me the Island had foul Ground near half a Mile from the Shore; bad Anchoring, worse Landing, and no fresh Water; but Wood enough. A melancholy Story, our Water growing short. We hall’d on a Wind, for the middle Island, which Capt. _Dampier_, I do believe, can remember he was at, when he belong’d to Captain _Swann_,[137] and found Water. Being little Wind we sent our Boat towards the Island, to view it before we could get thither with the Ship.

_Octob. 7._ The _Dutchess_’s People, and our Pinnace had been ashore at several Places on the S. E. side of the Island, and found bitter Water at every Place. Our Ship got soon to an Anchor near the _Dutchess_, in 11 Fathom Water and sandy Ground, about a Mile and a half off Shore.

_Octob. 8._ Those that had been on the Island saw no Sign of Peoples being lately there, but found a human Skull above Ground, which we suppose to have been one of the two _Indians_ Capt. _Dampier_ tells us were left here by Capt. _Swann_, about 23 Years ago; for Victuals being scarce with these _Buccaneers_, they would not carry the poor _Indians_ any farther, but, after they had served their Turns, left them to make a miserable End on a desolate Island. We kept a Light out all Night, and a great Fire in the Island, that if the _Marquiss_ and Bark, who had left Company, saw it, and had a Gale, they might come into Anchor Ground. But having no sight of them at Day-break, I went on board our Consort, and propos’d my going out to look after ’em; but they made Light of it and thought it needless, believing they would be in after us, without any Assistance. The Recruit of Cattle, Hogs, and Plantains, at _Tecames_, held to the _Gallapagos_, and we have fed on the Turtle we got there ever since, excepting these two last Days. This accidental Stock of fresh Food has been some Refreshment to our Men, and prolongs our Stock of _European_ Provisions. Now Bread or Flower will be the first thing wanting. We had little Wind Northerly, and often calm.

_Octob. 9._ Yesterday I sent Lieut. _Glendall_ to view the other side of the Island, and he brought me back word it was much better than this, with sandy Bays, and signs of Turtle in the Sand, which he believed came ashore the last Night. I sent back the Boat and Men to try to get Turtle; and this Morning they came back with their Boats Load of very good ones, and left another lading behind them ready turn’d; they also had found indifferent good Water on the N. E. side of the Island, which rejoiced us to be so unexpectedly supplied; for the other Water on this side the Island,

[Sidenote: _At Anchor at St. Marias Islands._]

had purg’d those that drank it aboard the _Dutchess_ like Physick. We had no sight yet of the Bark or _Marquiss_. ’Tis very hot, with an Air of Wind Northerly, but almost calm. Our Consort has sent their Pinnace in quest of the missing Ships.

_Octob. 10._ Lieut. _Connely_ of the _Dutchess_, that went in quest of ’em return’d without any News. And we having begun trimming our Ship, and stripping the Rigging; the _Dutchess_ desired to go and look for them, mean while we were to employ our People to cut Wood and get a Stock of Turtle against their Return. We found an excellent Run of Water on the other side of the Island, and sent our Pinnace to view the Westermost Island, to see if either of the missing Ships had got into Anchor here.

Capt. _Dover_ being willing to remove aboard the _Dutchess_, I desired our Officers to make the following _Memorandum_.

Tres S. Maria Islands.

_We the under-written, appointed part of a Committee now present on board the_ Duke, _do certify, that Capt._ Dover _requested to go on board the_ Dutchess; _and desired us to take notice it was his own Choice so to do. Witness our Hands, this 10th Day of_ October, 1709.

Stephen Courtney, Robert Frye, Woodes Rogers, Thomas Glendall, William Dampier, Lanc. Appleby.

At the same time the following Agreement was made where to meet with the _Dutchess_, and they took a Copy with them.

_In case we aboard the_ Duke _don’t see the_ Dutchess _return in 10 Days, then to be ready to sail, and first look in the Latitude 20°._ N. _in sight of the Land: If not to be found there, to run off the Land farther into Sea, and then in sight again, but no nearer than within 6 Leagues of the Land, to prevent Discovery. We are to bring all full of Water and Turtle for a second Recruit, to keep a continual Look-out for them, and leave a Signal at the South End of this Island._

_Octob. 11._ According to this Agreement Capt. _Dover_ went himself, and sent his Servant with his Necessaries aboard the _Dutchess_. In the Evening they came to sail, and carry’d above 100 large Turtle that we brought to them in our Boats for victualling, to save Salt Provisions. We hope the Current, that has hitherto run to Leeward, will quickly shift, and facilitate their Return, that we may not be obliged to follow them. I order’d 6 Yards of red and white Bays to be join’d together, to spread it as a Signal on the Island for directing them to a Letter from me in a Bottle by it, should we unexpectedly quit the Place in her Absence.

_Octob. 12._ Last Night our Pinnace, which had been in quest of the missing Ships, return’d from the Westermost Island, and saw no Sign of the Ships. Our People tell us, they heard aboard the _Dutchess_, that the Bark had not 2 Days Water when they left them, which made me very uneasy lest she should go to the Main after Water, which would discover us, and might prove the Occasion of losing her also.

Yesterday we put Negroes ashore to cut Wood for the absent Ships, and last Night our Boat came off, and brought but 3 out of 10, 7 having run away into the Woods: Immediately we dispatch’d several Men round the Island with Arms, to endeavour to catch ’em when they come down out of the Woods to get Food at the Sea-side. These Negroes had an Antipathy against _Michael Kendall_ the _Jamaica_ Negro, and design’d to have kill’d him, had not one of those that came aboard given him timely Notice of it. A Negro amongst the Runaways could write well, which made me get our Ransomers to write 3 _Spanish_ Papers of Encouragement to incline the Fugitives upon sight of ’em to return, promising that Negro his Freedom and every thing else he or the rest of them could reasonably desire. These Papers we nail’d up against Trees by the Brook side, where they will be sure to see them. My Reason for so doing was to prevent these Fellows from giving notice of us on the Coast, if they reach’d the Main on Bark Logs, which they could make with the Hatchets they had to cut Wood for us. If this Method fails of Success, ’tis in vain to hope for finding them by searching the Island, every part of it being full of thick Woods and Prickles, which make it unpassable. On the sandy Shore we began to imploy our Rope-makers to spin Twine for the _Dutchess_ and _Marquiss_, who complain their Stock is short. Our people found another Spring of excellent Water on the other side of the Island.

[Sidenote: _At Anchor at St. Marias Islands._]

_Octob. 13._ Yesterday Afternoon the _Dutchess_ came in sight, with the Bark in Tow, and soon after we saw the _Marquiss_. We kept a Light out, that they might the better find us. In the Morning we saw them at Anchor between the 2 Islands. I weigh’d in their sight, and put out our Ensign for ’em to follow us to the Watering Place on the other side of the Island, which they did accordingly. The Wind continues Northerly, with a Lee Current.

_Octob. 14._ Yesterday in the Afternoon we came to an Anchor in 16 Fathom Water off the N. E. Side of the Island. I went immediately in our Pinnace aboard the _Dutchess_, that was then under Sail with the Bark in Tow, 2 Leagues from us. About 4 they and the _Marquiss_ came to an Anchor; I told them of our Negroes deserting us, which had prevented our getting a good Stock of Wood in their Absence, and we agreed to keep all our Negroes on board the Ships, and narrowly watch ’em to prevent their Desertion for the future.

Mr. _Duck_, who was Master of the Bark, told me the Day they lost sight of us their Water was expended, and two of the Bark’s Crew in a very small Canoe left her almost out of sight of Land, and being smooth calm Weather, fortunately got aboard the _Marquiss_ to acquaint Capt. _Cooke_ they had no Water, upon which he bore down to them, and took her in Towe. Had he not done this, the Bark must have run for the Main Land to get Water, which might have alarm’d the Enemy, and endanger’d the Loss of the Vessel and Men. They were not above 8 Leagues off the Island, but it being hazey Weather, and having little Wind, and a Lee Current, they could not get in, or see us.

_Octob. 15._ We could not get to the Watering Place near the N. W. Corner of the Island, till 7 last Night, when we anchor’d in 7 Fathom Water, clean sandy Ground, about half a Mile from the Shore; the Westermost Point bore W. by N. about 3 Miles, and the Eastermost E. by S. 6 Miles. The Body of the Westermost Island bore N. W. distant 4 Leagues. This Morning we got our empty Casks ashore, and began filling Water. Had we not very fair Weather at this Season, and little Wind, this Place would be but an ordinary Road.

_Octob. 16._ Capt. _Courtney_ sent me word, that the _Marquiss_, who has been again missing, was well moored at the S. E. Side of the Island, and could not easily turn it hither; so we agreed she should lie there, and we would water her from hence with our Boats.

_Octob. 18._ Lieutenant _Fry_ went in the Pinnace last Night to view the Weather Island, and he returned this Morning, and told me there was a Road, but not very good and that he could find no Water.

_Octob. 19._ We hal’d the Sain [Sein], and caught some Fish. This Morning we found some Bail Goods damaged, which we believe they received before we had ’em; we unpack’d and dry’d ’em, and sold what was most damaged amongst the Ships Company, repacking and stowing away the rest. Very hot Weather, and a little Air of Wind North.

_Octob. 23._ We began this Morning to take aboard our Turtle, and the Remainder of our Wood and Water, designing in the Evening to return, and anchor on the S. E. Side of the Island, to join the _Marquiss_, and agree on a Station to cruize for the _Manila_ Ship. Our Men shot a Snake ashore, and brought it aboard dead; I saw it measured 15 Inches round, and near 10 Foot long; some of ’em are much larger; this was of a hazle colour, and spotted, called by the _Spaniards_ here a Leopard Serpent.

_Octob. 24._ All the Officers met aboard the _Dutchess_, and sign’d a Duplicate of every Conclusion in all Committees since we have been in these Seas. Many of the Resolutions wrote on board this Ship were in my Custody, and others wrote aboard the _Dutchess_ in Capt. _Courtney’s_; but it was thought advisable that each of us should have all the Copies signed alike. While we were together, we agreed on a Station to lie for the _Manila_ Ship; but I lately proposed parting, and to meet again at Cape _Corientes_, or any other appointed Station, and for us in the _Duke_ to cruize off the same Place where Capt. _Dampier_ met the _Manila_ Ship in the _St. George_, or else the _Marquiss_ and _Dutchess_ to take that Station, and I would go to Cape _St. Lucas_; since by either Method we should have 2 Chances for the Prize, and get Provisions, which we begin to want very much. This Method might prove much better than to be at one Place, where we could not be supply’d with Provisions; but the Officers of the _Dutchess_ and _Marquiss_ seeming unwilling to part Companies, and the Majority thinking Cape _St. Lucas_ the properest Place to lie for the _Manila_ Ship bound for _Acapulco_, I drew up our Resolution, which was signed by the whole Council, who on this Occasion were altogether.

At a Committee held on board the _Dutchess_ at the Islands _Tres Marias, October 24. 1709_.

[Sidenote: _Description of Tres Marias._]

_We whose Names are hereunto subscribed, being Members of a Committee appointed to manage the Affairs of the_ Duke, Dutchess _and_ Marquiss, _having recruited our Ships at these Islands, and being in a readiness to put to Sea again; We have examin’d the Opinion of Capt._ Dampier, _appointed Pilot by the Owners of the Ships_ Duke _and_ Dutchess _in_ Bristol, _and have been well informed from all the Intelligences we have frequently had from Prisoners since our being in the_ South Seas, _and do now finally determine to cruize off Cape_ St. Lucas, _the Southermost Cape of_ California, _in such Methods, and with such Signals to each other, as shall be agreed on in our next Committee._

_We resolve with the utmost Care and Diligence to wait here the coming of the_ Manila _Ship belonging to the_ Spaniards, _and bound for_ Acapulco; _whose Wealth on board her we hope will prompt every Man to use his utmost Conduct and Bravery to conquer. This is our Opinion the Day above._

Tho. Dover, _Pres._ John Connely, Woodes Rogers, William Bath, Stephen Courtney, Tho. Glendall, Edw. Cooke, Geo. Milbourne, William Dampier, Robert Knowlman, Robert Frye, John Bridge, William Stratton, John Ballett, Cha. Pope, Lan. Appleby.

Being all supply’d with Wood, Water, and Turtle, we came to sail at Eleven this Forenoon, Wind at N. by W. a fine Gale; but e’er I proceed with my Journal, I will give a short Description of these Islands.

The Islands of _Tres Marias_ lie N. W. in a Range at equal Distances from each other, about 4 Leagues asunder: The largest Island is the Westermost, appears to be high double Land, and about 5 Leagues in Length; the middle Island about 3 Leagues the longest way, and the Eastermost scarce 2 Leagues; these are also middling high Lands, and full of Trees. Near the least Island are 2 or 3 small broken white Islands, one of the outermost of these appear’d so much like a Ship under Sail at a distance, that we gave the usual Signal for a Chase, but soon found our Mistake.

These Islands have abundance of different sorts of Parrots, Pigeons, Doves, and other Land Birds, of which we kill’d great Numbers, with excellent Hares, but much less than ours. We saw abundance of Guanas, and some Raccoons; the latter bark’d and snarl’d at us like Dogs, but were easily beat off with Sticks.

I think the Water more worthy of Remark than any thing we saw here, because we found but two good Springs, which ran down in large Streams near others, that were very bitter and disagreeable, which I suppose might proceed from Shrubs and Roots that grow in the Water, or from some Mineral.

The Turtle here is very good, but of a different Shape from any I have seen; and tho’ vulgarly there’s reckon’d but 3 sorts of Turtle, we have seen 6 or 7 different sorts at several Times, and our People have eat of them all, except the very large hooping or logger-head Turtle (as they are call’d) found in _Brazil_ in great plenty, and some of them above 500 _l._ Weight. We did not eat of that sort, because then our Provisions were plentiful, which made those Turtles to be slighted as coarse and ordinary Food. Those at the _Gallapagos_ Islands, both He’s and She’s, I observed came ashore in the Day-time, and not in the Night, quite different from what I have seen or heard of the rest.

All that we caught in this Island was by turning ’em in the Night, and were She’s, which came ashore to lay their Eggs, and bury them in the dry Sand: One of these had at least 800 Eggs in its Belly, 150 of which were skin’d, and ready for laying at once. I could not imagine that Turtle were 6 Weeks in hatching, as some Authors write, considering the Sun makes the Sand so very hot wherever these Eggs are found, and instead of a Shell they have nothing but a very thin Film. In order therefore to be better informed, I order’d some of our Men ashore to watch carefully for one, and suffer her to lay her Eggs without disturbance, and to take good notice of the Time and Place. Accordingly they did so, and assur’d me they found the Eggs addled in less than 12 Hours, and in about 12 more they had young ones in ’em, compleatly shap’d, and alive. Had we staid a little longer, I might have given my self and others a thorough Satisfaction in this quick Production of Nature. From hence I am inclinable to credit the Report of divers of our Sailors, who assert, that where they have found Eggs in the Sand, and look’d for ’em 3 Days after in the same place, they found nothing but Films; this shews that the young ones are hatch’d within that time. They assured me also, that they had observed oftener than once, that the young Brood run out of the Sand every day directly for the Sea in great Numbers, and quicker than the old ones.

[Sidenote: _At Anchor at Tres Marias._]

At this time here was little Fish about the Shores of this Island, and of the same sorts mention’d at other Places in these Seas; but the Plenty of Turtle at this time supplies that Defect. We the chief Officers fed deliciously here, being scarce ever without Hares, Turtle Doves, Pigeons, and Parrots of various Sizes and Colours, many had white or red Heads, with Tufts of Feathers on their Crowns. I wish ’twould hold, but ’tis in vain to tantalize our selves; for we must soon fare otherwise, and take to our old Food of almost decay’d Salt Pork and Beef, which we must prize, and heartily wish we had more on’t. We found good Anchor Ground about this middle Island, and gradual Soundings from 20 to 4 Fathom Water close by the Shore. Between this and the least Island ’tis about the same Depth; where we were between them I found no Shole, but what was visible, as a Rock off the S. W. Point, and a Shole off the N. E. Point of the same, with another at a greater distance from that Point off the least Island, but neither runs above half a Mile from the Shore. I know no Danger about them, but what with Care might be easily avoided.