Part 14

The 15_th_ of _Novemb._ 1577. the famous Sir _Francis Drake_ set out from _Plymouth_ with five Sail, and having touch’d at several places by the way, enter’d the Straits the 21_st_ of _August_ following. He found them very dangerous, because of the many Turnings, contrary Winds, and sudden Blasts from high Mountains cover’d with Snow on both sides, and their Tops reaching above the Clouds, and no anchoring but in some narrow River or Creek. The 24_th_ he came to an Island in the Straits, where there were so many Fowls call’d _Penguins_, that his Men kill’d 3000 in a day, which serv’d them for Provisions. The 6_th_ of _September_ he enter’d the _South-Sea_, where he met with dreadful Storms, and one of his Ships was drove back into the Straits, thro which she return’d to _England_; as Sir _Francis Drake_ did _July_ 24. 1580. being the first Sea-Captain that ever sail’d round the World, and brought his Ship home, which was accounted a great Honour to the _English_ Nation.

_July_ 1. 1586. Mr. _Tho. Candish_, afterwards Sir _Thomas_,[117] sail’d from _Plymouth_ with three Ships, and the 6_th_ of _January_ after enter’d the Straits, having met with a severe Storm near the mouth of ’em. He took the Remainders of a _Spanish_ Garison there, who from 400 were reduc’d to 23 by Famine; and those of King _Philip’s_ City, which had been built in the Straits, were in the same miserable Condition, so that they abandon’d the Place. They found Cannibals in some part of the Straits, who had eat many of the _Spaniards_, and design’d the like to the _English_, had they not been kept off by their Guns. Mr. _Candish_ was stop’d here a considerable while by a furious Storm and bad Weather, which reduc’d him to Want of Provisions, till the 24_th_ of _February_ that he got into the _South-Sea_, and bought Provisions of the _Indians_. Mr. _Candish_ return’d to _England_, after having sail’d round the World, the 9_th of September_ next Year. He again attempted the Passage of the same Straits in 1591, but without Success;

[Sidenote: _Account of the Straits of Magellan._]

as Mr. _Fenton_[118] did in 1582. as _Floris_ did at the same time; the Earl of _Cumberland_ in 1586. Mr. _Chidley_ in 1589. and Mr. _Wood_ in 1596. Sir _Richard Hawkins_ pass’d them in 1593. but was taken by the _Spaniards_; and Mr. _Davis_[119] the Discoverer to the N W. pass’d and repass’d those Straits, but was forc’d back by contrary Winds. So that our Countrymen, tho they did not all succeed in the Attempt, yet have been the most fortunate in passing them of any other Nation: for the _Dutch_ pass’d them in 1597. with five Ships, of which only one return’d. Five other _Dutch_ Ships pass’d them in 1614. when they lost one of them. In 1623. the _Dutch Nassaw_ Fleet, so call’d because the Prince of _Orange_ was the greatest Adventurer, attempted it with fifteen brave Ships, and 2 or 3000 Men; but were repuls’d, wherever they came to land, by the _Spaniards_, so that they could not settle there.

Other Nations attempted it likewise, and particularly Don _Garcia de Loaisa_, a Knight of _Malta_ and a _Spaniard_, with seven Ships and 450 Men; and tho he pass’d the Straits, he died himself, and all his Ships were afterwards taken by the _Portuguese_ or others. _Vargas_ Bishop of _Placentia_ sent 7 Ships to attempt it, one of which only succeeded, went to _Arequipa_ a Port on the _South-Sea_, and discover’d the Situation of the Coast of _Peru_; but went no further. _Ferdinand Cortez_, the Conqueror of _New Spain_, sent two Ships and 400 Men in 1528. to discover the way to the _Moluccas_ thro the Straits, but without success. Two _Genoese_ Ships were the first that attempted it in 1526, after _Magellan_, but could not effect it. _Sebastian Cabot_ try’d it also by Commission from Don _Emanuel_ King of _Portugal_, but could not do it. _Americus Vespusius_ was sent by the same Prince, but could neither find the Straits nor the River of _La Plata_. _Simon Alcasara_ a _Spaniard_ attempted it likewise with several Ships and 440 Men, but came back without performing it, his Men having mutiny’d. All these Attempts by the _Spaniards_, &c. happen’d before Sir _Francis Drake_ perform’d it.

In the Reports made of those Straits upon Oath to the Emperor _Charles_ V. those who attempted this Passage give the following Account, _viz._ That from the Cape of 11000 _Virgins_ at the Entrance of the North Sea, to the Cape of _Desire_ at the Entrance of the South-Sea, is 100 _Spanish_ Ls. that they found in this Strait three great Bays of about 7 Leagues wide from Land to Land, but the Entrances not above half a League, and encompass’d with such high Mountains, that the Sun never shines in them, so that they are intolerably cold, there being a continual Snow, and the Nights very long: That they found good Water with Cinamon-Trees, and several others, which tho they look green burnt in the Fire like dry Wood: That they found many good sorts of Fish, good Harbours with 15 fathom Water, and several pleasant Rivers and Streams: That the Tides of both Seas meet about the middle of the Straits with a prodigious Noise and Shock; but some of the _Portuguese_, who had pass’d the Straits, say they are only high Floods which last about a month, rise to a great height, and sometimes fall so low and ebb so fast, that they leave Ships on dry ground. The Reader may find more of this in _Herrera’s_ History: but others differ in their Accounts, and particularly _Spilberg_ a _Dutchman_, who mentions a Port here that he call’d _Famous_, by way of Eminency, the adjacent Soil producing Fruit of various Colours and excellent Taste, and affording Brooks of very good Water. He mentions 24 other Ports besides those that he did not see, and particularly the _Piemento_ or Pepper-Harbour, so call’d because of the Trees which grow there of an Aromatick Smell, whose Bark tastes like Pepper, and is more hot and quick than that of the _East-Indies_. The _Spaniards_ having brought some of it to _Seville_, it was sold there for two Crowns a pound.

The last of our Countrymen who pass’d them was Sir _John Narborough_,[120] who set out from the _Thames_, _May_ 15. 1669. with two Ships. He had K. _Charles_ II’s Commission, was furnish’d out at his Majesty’s Charge, and enter’d the Straits _October_ 22. following. He says, that from the Entrance of this Strait to the Narrow there’s good Anchorage, and not much Tide, but in the Narrow the Tide runs very strong. The Flood sets into the Straits, and the Ebb out, keeping its Course as on other Coasts. It rises and falls near 4 Fathom perpendicular, and it is high Water here on the Change of the Moon at eleven a clock. When he came to the Narrow, he found the Tide very strong, which endanger’d the running of his Ships upon the steep Rocks on the North side. From the first Narrow to the second is above 8 Ls. and the Reach betwixt them 7 Ls broad. He found a Bay on the North

[Sidenote: _Account of the Straits of Magellan._]

side at the Point of the second Narrow, where one may ride in 8 Fathom Water in clear sandy Ground half a mile from the Shore. In the Channel of the second Narrow he found 38 Fathom Water, and several Bays and Cliffs with little Islands. He exchang’d several Trifles with the Natives for Bows and Arrows, and their Skin-Coats. They were of a middle Stature, well limb’d, with round Faces, low Foreheads, little Noses, small black Eyes and Ears, black flaggy Hair of an indifferent Length, their Teeth white, their Faces of an Olive-Colour, daub’d with Spots of white Clay and Streaks of Soot, their Bodies painted with red Earth and Grease, their Clothing of the Skins of Seals, Guianacoes and Otters, wrapt about them like the _Scotch_ Highlanders Plads. They had Caps of the Skins of Fowls with the Feathers on, and pieces of Skins on their feet to keep them from the ground. They are very active and nimble, and when about Business go quite naked; only the Women have a piece of Skin before them, and differ from the Men in Habit only by want of Caps, and having Bracelets of Shells about their Necks. They seem to have no manner of Government nor Religion, live by Hunting and Fishing, and are arm’d with Bows and Arrows; the latter 18 Inches long, and headed with Flint Stones. These People Sir _John_ found in _Elizabeth-Isle_, which lies near the second Narrow. In Port _Famine_ Bay, S. Lat. 53. 35. he found good Wood and Water, and abundance of _Piemento_ Trees. Their Language is guttural and slow. Sir _John_ is of opinion, that the Mountains contain Gold or Copper. He computes the whole Length of the Straits at 116 Leagues. For the rest we refer to him.

I have insisted the longer on these Straits, partly because they are so much talk’d of, and partly to justify our going to the _South-Seas_ by the way of Cape _Horne_, which is far more safe: so that in all probability the Straits of _Magellan_ will be little frequented by _Europeans_ in time to come.

The Land on the North side of the Straits is call’d _Patagonia_, and that on the South _Terra del Fuego_, because of the numerous Fires and the great Smoke which the first Discoverers saw upon it. It extends the whole Length of the Straits, and lies from East to West about 130 Leagues, according to _Ovalle_; and before the Discovery of the Straits of _St. Vincent_, otherwise call’d _Le Maire’s_ Straits, was suppos’d to join to some part of the _Terra Australis_. _Ovalle_ says, that on the Continent of _Chili_, near the Straits of _Magellan_, there’s a People call’d _Cessares_, who are suppos’d to be descended from part of the _Spaniards_ that were forc’d ashore in the Straits, when the Bishop of _Placentia_ sent the Ships abovemention’d to discover the _Molucca_ Islands. ’Tis suppos’d they contracted Marriages with some _Indian_ Nation, where they have multiply’d, and taught them to build Cities and the Use of Bells. _Ovalle_ says, that when he wrote the History of _Chili_, he receiv’d Letters and other Informations that there is such a Nation in those parts, and that one of the Missionaries had been in the Country with Captain _Navarro_, and found the People to be of a white Complexion with red in their Cheeks; by the Shape of their Bodies they seem’d to be Men of Courage and Activity, and by the Goodness of their Complexion ’twas probable they might be mix’d with a Race of _Flemmings_, who had been ship-wreck’d in those parts. But there being no farther Account of these People since _Ovalle’s_ Account of _Chili_ in the Year 1646. we believe this Relation to be fabulous.

[Sidenote: _Account of the Straits of Magellan._]

M. _de Beauchesne Gouin_, who is the last that attempted the Passage of the Straits of _Magellan_, that we have heard of, came to an anchor at the _Virgins_ Cape in the mouth of this Strait the 24_th_ of _June_ 1699. and the Wind being contrary, he lay at anchor betwixt the Continent and _Terra del Fuego_. He weighed again, the Winds being still contrary, and on the third of _July_ anchor’d at Port _Famine_ in the Straits, where the _Spaniards_ had built a Garison, but were forc’d to quit it for want of Provisions. He observes, that from the Mouth of the Straits to this place, the Climate seem’d to be as temperate as in _France_, tho now the coldest Season of the Year in those parts. He found abundance of Wood for Firing, but the greatest Inconveniency he met with there, was from the great Storms of Snow, tho it did not lie long, being carry’d off by Rains which come from the West. He is of opinion that a Settlement might easily be made here, in a part of the Country extending above 20 Leagues; and that he was inform’d the Islands of _St. Elizabeth_ in the Straits are proper enough for Corn and Cattel, if planted with them. He sent his Sloop ashore on _Terra del Fuego_, where he saw Fires, and found the savage Natives by 50 or 60 together in Companies, and some of them came aboard his Ship that lay 5 Ls. from the shore. They were very peaceable and friendly, but more miserable than our Beggars in _Europe_, having no Clothes but a strait Coat of wild Beasts Skins, that comes no lower than their knees, and pitiful Hutts made up of Poles cover’d with Skins of Beasts; and this is all the shelter they have against the Extremity of the Weather. They came in such multitudes to beg from him, as soon made him weary of their Company; so that he weigh’d again the 16_th_ of _August_, and stopt at Port _Galand_ to leave some Letters there for those who were to follow him from _France_, as had been agreed on. And here he observes, that both the Climate and the Navigation of the Straits are very unequal; and that from this place to the Entrance of the _South-Sea_ there’s nothing but extraordinary high Mountains on each side, from whence come very impetuous and frightful Torrents, and scarce any place for Anchorage to be found, or one Day without either Rain or Snow. He adds, that he found an Island opposite to the Mouth of the Strait of _St. Jerom_, that is set down in none of our Maps. This Island, he says, has two good Harbours, which may be of great consequence to those who pass this way. He took possession of it, call’d it by the name of the Island _Louis le Grand_; the largest Harbour he nam’d Port _Dauphin_, and the lesser, which is very convenient, Port _Philippeaux_. After having given this Character of those Straits, he says one may be sure of a Passage thro them, provided it be in the proper Season, but ’tis very difficult in the Winter. He came out of those Straits into the _South-Sea_ on the 21_st_ of _January_, 1700. and went to view the Harbour of _San Domingo_, which he says is the _Spanish_ Frontier, and the only Place where a new Settlement can be made there, the rest being all possess’d already. He arriv’d there the 3_d_ of _February_, 1700. and on the 5_th_ anchor’d on the East of an Island call’d by different Names, but the latest Authors call it _St. Magdalens_ Island. He sent his first Lieutenant to view and take possession of it, who brought him word that it was a very pleasant place, and shew’d him some fine beautiful Shrubs and Pease-Blossoms that he found upon the East side of it; from whence he conjectures that it may be a proper place to inhabit, tho he owns that the Climate is very moist, and they have frequent Rains and Mists, which he ascribes to the high Mountains. He made ready to discover four other Islands, which lie in view of this Isle and the Main Land, and sounded as he went on, but durst not venture to go among ’em with so large a Ship, because there blew a strong North-West Wind, follow’d by a thick Mist, which made him lose sight of Land; so that to his great sorrow he could not compleat the Discovery of that Frontier. He adds, that ’tis full of high Mountains down to the very Sea; but was afterwards inform’d by a _Spaniard_ who winter’d in those parts, that there’s a very good Harbour for Ships to ride in, where they may be moor’d to tall Trees, and that there are very few Inhabitants on this Coast, but some wandring Savages, like those on the Straits of _Magellan_.

This and the other Journals convince me intirely that the best way to the _South-Sea_ is round Cape _Horne_, the Route we pursu’d in our Voyage.

Besides what I said from my own Observation, to prove how extensive a Trade we might have in those Seas, I shall add the following Observations from M. _de Beauchesne_; who says, that tho he was look’d upon as a Free-Booter, and that the then _Spanish_ Governours on those Coasts were forbid to trade or suffer the People to trade with any but their own Subjects in those Seas, and that at _Valdivia_ and other places they fir’d at him when he approach’d their Harbours, and deny’d so much as to sell him any Provisions, or to suffer him to wood or water; yet at _Rica_ some particular Persons traded with him to the Value of 50000 Crowns, and told him, That that place was not so proper for them to act so manifestly contrary to Law, but if he went to a place more retir’d, they would buy all he had, tho both his Ships were full of Goods. Accordingly, when he came to _Hilo_, a great number of Merchants bought all that he had of Value at good rates. He owns that the Cloth he had on board was half rotten, that the Merchants were vex’d at their Disappointment, and express’d their Resentment that he should come to those parts so ill provided: but in other places the People bought all to the very Rags he had on board, and brought him Provisions in abundance to sell, tho they were forbid doing so on pain of Death; and the Officers themselves conniv’d at it.

He return’d by the way of Cape _Horne_ in 58 deg. 15 min. _January_ 1701. and had as good a Passage and Season as could be desir’d, but saw no Land on either side till the 19_th_ of _January_ 1701. when he discover’d a small Island about 3 or 4 Ls. round, in Lat. 52. odd min. not mark’d in our Maps, with strong Currents near it; and on the 20_th_ he came to the Isle of _Sebald de Wert_, which is a marshy Land with some rocky Mountains, no Trees, but abundance of Sea-Flow.

[Sidenote: _Account of the Straits of Le Maire._]

It is proper here likewise to give an Account of the Straits of _Le Maire_, so call’d from _James Le Maire_ an _Amsterdam_ Merchant, their Discoverer in 1615. They lie in S. Lat. 55. 36. and are form’d by the _Terra del Fuego_ on the West, and an Island by the _Dutch_ call’d _Staten-landt_, or the Country of the States, on the E. The Straits are 8 Leagues wide, with good Roads on each side, and plenty of Fish and Fowl. The Land on both sides is high and mountainous. The Discoverers saw very large Fowls bigger than Sea-Mews, and their Wings when extended above a Fathom long each. They were so tame that they flew into the Ships, and suffer’d the Sailors to handle them. In Lat. 57. they saw two barren Islands, which they call’d _Barnevelt_; and the South Cape of _Terra del Fuego_, which runs out in a Point to Lat. 57. 48. they nam’d Cape _Horne_. Some compute this Strait to be only 5 Leagues in Length.

_Ovalle_[121] says, that in 1619 the King of _Spain_ being inform’d that _Le Maire_ had discover’d these Straits, he sent two Vessels to make a further Discovery of ’em. These Ships came to the East side of the Straits of _Magellan_, where the Crew found a sort of Giants higher by the Head than any _Europeans_, who gave them Gold in exchange for Scissars and other Bawbles; but this can’t be rely’d on. They went thro this Strait in less than a day’s time, it being not above 7 Leagues in length.

I return now to my Journal.

_Jan. 16._ Fresh Gales of Wind with cloudy Weather. These 24 hours we had extraordinary smooth Water, as if we were close under Land: Indifferent warm Weather. Wind from the W S W. to W by N.

_January 20._ Yesterday at three in the Afternoon we saw high Land bearing E by N. dist. about 10 Ls. being the Land about Port _St. Stephen’s_ on the Coast of _Patagonia_ in the _South-Sea_, describ’d in the Draughts. S. Lat. 47.

_Jan. 22._ Fair Weather, with fresh Gales of Wind from W by S. to the W N W. Last night _George Cross_ died; he was a Smith by Trade, and Armourer’s Mate. We and the _Dutchess_ have had a great many Men down with the Cold, and some with the Scurvey; the Distemper that this Man died of. The _Dutchess_ had always more sick Men than we, and have so now: They buried but one Man that died of Sickness, and tell us they hope the rest will recover. We have but one Man whose Life we doubt of, tho most want a Harbour. This day Capt. _Courtney_ and Capt. _Cook_ din’d with us. At two a clock we saw the Land on the Coast of _Patagonia_, being very high, distant about 14 Ls. Lat. 44. 9. S.

_Jan. 26._ Fresh Gales with Clouds and Rain. We spoke with our Consort this day, who complains their Men grow worse and worse, and want a Harbour to refresh ’em; several of ours are also very indifferent, and if we don’t get ashore, and a small Refreshment, we doubt we shall both lose several Men. We are very uncertain of the Latitude and Longitude of _Juan Fernandez_, the Books laying ’em down so differently, that not one Chart agrees with another; and being but a small Island, we are in some doubts of striking it, so design to hale in for the main Land to direct us.

_Jan. 27._ Fair Weather, smooth Water, pleasant Gales of Wind, veerable from the W. to the N W. had a good Amplitude, found the Variation to be 10 deg. Eastward. This is an excellent Climate. Lat. 36. 36. S.

_Jan. 28._ We have had moderate Weather. At six a clock we saw the Land, the Eastermost appearing like an Island, which we agree to be the Island of _St. Mary_ on the Coast of _Chili_: it bore E by N. dist. 9 or 10 Ls. Our Consort’s Men are very ill; their want of Clothes, and being often wet in the cold Weather, has been the greatest cause of their being more sick than our Ships Company.

_Jan. 31._ These 24 hours we had the Wind between the S. and S W by W. At seven this morning we made the Island of _Juan Fernandez_; it bore W S W. dist. about 7 Ls. at Noon W by S. 6 Ls. We had a good Observ. Lat. 34. 10. S.

[Sidenote: _We Make the Isle of Juan Fernandez._]

_February 1._ About two yesterday in the Afternoon we hoisted our Pinnace out; Capt _Dover_ with the Boats Crew went in her to go ashore, tho we could not be less than 4 Ls. off. As soon as the Pinnace was gone, I went on board the _Dutchess_, who admir’d our Boat attempted going ashore at that distance from Land: ’twas against my Inclination, but to oblige Capt. _Dover_ I consented to let her go. As soon as it was dark, we saw a Light ashore; our Boat was then about a League from the Island, and bore away for the Ships as soon as she saw the Lights. We put out Lights abroad for the Boat, tho some were of opinion the Lights we saw were our Boats Lights; but as Night came on, it appear’d too large for that. We fir’d one Quarter-Deck Gun and several Muskets, showing Lights in our Mizen and Fore-Shrouds, that our Boat might find us, whilst we ply’d in the Lee of the Island. About two in the Morning our Boat came on board, having been two hours on board the _Dutchess_, that took ’em up a-stern of us: we-were glad they got well off, because it begun to blow. We are all convinc’d the Light is on the shore, and design to make our Ships ready to engage, believing them to be _French_ Ships at anchor, and we must either fight ’em or want Water, _etc._