Part 13

Our Author not being distinct in describing the Provinces of _Paraguay_ and _Tucuman_, but sometimes confounding one with the other, I shall only add a few things more relating to those Countries in general. He mentions a People call’d _Guaicureans_ who live on the Banks of _Paraguay_ near the City _Assumption_, maintain themselves by Fishing and Hunting, and eat all manner of Serpents and wild Beasts without hurt. They have Tents of Mats, which they remove at pleasure. They dawb one side of their Bodies with stinking Colours, scarify their Faces to make them look terrible, suffer no Hair to grow on their Bodies; and instead of a Beard fasten a Stone of a finger’s length to their Chin, and make their Deformity the Standard of their Valour. Their chief Delight is in Drunkenness and War; and to acquire the Title and Dignity of Soldiers, they must endure to have their Legs, Thighs, Tongues, _&c._ bored with an Arrow; and if they flinch in the least, are not allow’d that Quality: and therefore they inure their Children from their Youth to all sorts of Hardship, and to run Thorns and Briars into their Flesh by way of Pastime. They honour their Commanders so much, that when they spit they receive it into their hands, stand about them when they eat, and observe all their Motions. They chose to fight by night, because they knew nothing of Order, but made their Onsets like Beasts. They either kill’d or sold their Prisoners, if at Man’s Estate, and the young ones they bred in their own way. They lurk’d in Marshes and Woods by day, keeping Spies abroad; and thus they plagu’d the _Spaniards_ for above a hundred years, till they were civiliz’d by some Missionaries. They would not allow their Women to paint with a Clay-colour till they had tasted human Flesh; and therefore when they kill’d Enemies, would divide them among the young Women, or give them the Corpse of their own Dead. They planted Trees over their Graves, adorn’d them with Ostrich Feathers, and met there at certain times, howling in a most barbarous manner, and performing many lewd and hellish Ceremonies. They worship Parrots as Gods, and have a sort of Bears call’d Ant-Bears: They have long Heads, Snouts much longer than those of Swine, and Tongues like Spears, which they thrust into the Ant-Hills, and lick up those Insects, which are as big as the top of one’s finger, and being toasted over the fire, are eat by the Natives and _Spaniards_ too as a Dainty.

Father _Techo_ mentions another People nam’d _Calchaquins_ in this Country, whom he supposes to have been of _Jewish_ Descent, because when the _Spaniards_ came first here, they found that many of them had _Jewish_ Names, and something of their Habit and Customs. Our Author draws a Parallel in several Instances; but this, as well as his Arguments to prove that St. _Thomas_ the Apostle planted Christianity in this Country, will scarce obtain Credit among the Learned. I refer the Curious who would know more of those things to our Author, who brings down what he calls the History of this Country as low as 1645. which is the latest Account we have yet printed, except Father _Sepp’s_ abovemention’d, which brings it to 1691. of which I have given the Substance already.

Before I go further, I shall give some account of the River _Aranoca_ or _Oronoco_, which is the Northern Boundary of our _South-Sea_ Company’s Limits. The Head of it, according to our Maps, is about N. Lat. 3. and in Long. 77. It runs Eastward about 840 miles, about 60 miles N. of the Equator, then runs N. about 420. and turning NE. about 120, falls into the Sea about N. Lat. 9. So that its whole Course is about 1370 miles, including Turnings and Windings; for it runs almost the whole Breadth of that part of _America_, since it rises within 160 miles of the _South-Sea_.

Mr. _Sparrey_,[114] who was left in the adjoining Country by Sir _Walter Raleigh_ in 1595. gives the following Account of this River. He says it is also call’d _Barequan_, is a great River, and others call it _Pariæ_. It falls into the Sea by sixteen Mouths; but according to _Sansons_ Map, what _Sparrey_ calls Mouths are a number of Islands which lie near the Shore at the Entrance of the River, and the chief of those Mouths nam’d _Capuri_ lies furthest South. They say it has 9 foot water at full Sea, and but 5 at Ebb: It flows but a small time, when it rises apace, and the Ebb continues 8 hours. There are several other ways of entring this River, for which I refer to _Sparrey_; as also for the other Rivers which fall into it on both sides. He attempted a Passage to _Peru_ this way, but in vain. He says that in this Search he enter’d the great River _Papemena_, which is six Leagues broad, and came to a pleasant Island call’d _Athul_, where the Climate is temperate, the Island is well water’d, and abounds with Fish, Fowls, and other Animals for Food. It has many Woods that abound with delicate Fruit all the Year. There’s store of Cotton, Balsam, _Brazile_ Wood, _Lignum Vitæ_, Cypress Trees, several Minerals and fine Stones, but for want of Skill he could not judg of the Value of ’em. This Island was not then inhabited, because of the Cannibals nam’d _Caribbes_ in the Neighbourhood. He is of opinion, that Westward from _Oronoco_ Gold might be found; but it was dangerous to go far into the Country, because the Natives were continually in Arms. He adds, that in the Country of _Curae_, part of the Province of _Guiana_, which lies on the S. and E. of _Oronoco_, there was plenty of Gold; but it was dangerous seeking for it in the Sands of the Rivers, because of Crocodiles. He talks also of Pearl or Topazes found here, but dubiously. At _Camalaha_ South of _Oronoco_, he says, there was then a Fair for Women Slaves, where he bought 8 for a coarse red-hafted Knife, the eldest of whom was not above 18 years old. The Inhabitants, he says, are generally swarthy. We have few modern Accounts of this River, because it is not much frequented for Trade; and therefore I shall say no more of it, but return to my Journal.

* * * * *

Nothing remarkable happen’d till _Decemb. 6._ when we had close cloudy Weather, with Showers; Wind at E. by N. We saw a large Bird call’d _Alcatros_, who spread their Wings from eight to ten foot wide, and are much like a Gannet.

_Dec. 7._ Rainy Weather, with Thunder and Lightning, a brisk Gale from E by N. to N E. This day I remov’d one of the Boatswain’s Mates, and put _Rob. Hollanby_ one of our best Sailors in his place.

[Sidenote: _From Grande towards Juan Fernandez._]

_Dec. 10._ Yesterday I exchang’d _Benjamin Long_, one of the Boatswain’s Mates, with _Tho. Hughes_ Boatswain’s Mate on board the _Dutchess_; he being mutinous there, they were willing to be rid of him.

_Dec. 13._ We had a strong Gale of Wind at S W. Yesterday in the Afternoon we reef’d our Main-Sail, which was the first time since we left _England_.

_Dec. 15._ The Colour of the Water being chang’d very much, we founded, but had no Ground: so that this Change is probably occasion’d by the nature of the Ground at bottom. We find it much colder in this Lat. which is 43. 30 S. than in the like degree N. tho the Sun was in its furthest Extent to the Southward: which may be ascrib’d partly to our coming newly out of warmer Climates, which made us more sensible of the Cold; or ’tis probable the Winds blow over larger Tracts of Ice than in the same Degrees of N. Latitude.

_Dec. 18._ Cold hazy rainy Weather. Yesterday in the Afternoon one of the _Dutchess_’s Men fell out of the Mizen-Top down on the Quarter-Deck, and broke his Skull: They desir’d the Advice of our Surgeon, and I went on board with our two, where they examin’d the Wound, but found the Man irrecoverable; so that he died, and was buried next day. Brisk Gales from the W N W. to the W by S.

_Dec. 19._ Cold airy Weather: We saw several Grampusses, and a great number of uncommon sort of Porpusses, black on their Back and Fins, and white underneath, with sharp white Noses; they often leap’d a good height out of the Water, turning their white Bellies uppermost: they were much of the shape and bigness of our Porpusses. We also saw many Seals.

_Dec. 20._ This day, according to what our Committee agreed at _Grande_, we exchang’d Mr. _Vanbrugh_ for Mr. _Bath_ Agent of the _Dutchess_. Easy Gales of Wind, but very veerable. This morning at four we had a very thick Fog, when we were caught in Stays,[115] and lost sight of the _Dutchess_, tho we made all the noise agreed on between us. At nine a clock it clear’d up, being very little Wind, and we were within a League of them.

_Dec. 21._ Easy Gales of Wind, but very veerable. We have seen a deal of Rock-Weed for some days past, of a great length and generally round in large Branches. Lat. 48.50. S.

_Dec. 22._ Fair Weather with Rain, Wind very veerable. The Water is generally discolour’d. We had a good Observ. Lat. 49.32. S.

_Dec. 22._ At ten this morning, we saw Land, bearing S S E. dist. 9 Ls. It appear’d first in three, afterwards in several more Islands. At twelve it bore S. 1/2 W. the West End dist. 6 Ls. a long Tract of Land. We saw most of that which appear’d at first to be Islands, join with the low Lands. The Wind being Westerly, and blowing fresh, we could not weather it; but was forc’d to bear away and run along Shore from 3 to 4 Ls. dist. It lay as near as we could guess E N E. and W S W. This is _Falkland’s_ Land, describ’d in few Draughts, and none lay it down right, tho the Latitude agrees pretty well. The middle of it lies in Latitude 51.00. S. and I make the Longitude of it to be 61. 54. West from _London_. The two Islands extend about two Degrees in Length, as near as I could judg by what I saw.

_Dec. 24._ Last night we reefed both Courses; it blowing strong, lay by from eight till three in the Morning, with our Heads to Northward, Wind at W by S. because we could not tell how far _Falkland_ Islands ran to the Eastward. Between two and three a clock yesterday in the Afternoon we ran by a high round large white remarkable Rock, which appear’d by it self near 3 Ls. without the Land; which is not unlike _Portland_, but not so high, and the Rock like that call’d the _Fastneste_ to the Westward of Cape _Clear_ in _Ireland_. At four yesterday in the Afternoon the North-East End bore S E by S. 7 Ls. the white Rock bore S. 3 Ls. At six the Eastermost Land in sight bore S.E. 7 Ls. All this Land appear’d with gentle Descents from Hill to Hill, and seem’d to be good Ground, with Woods and Harbours. At three a clock we made sail, steering S E. Lat. 52. S.

[Sidenote: _From Grande towards Juan Fernandez._]

_Dec. 25._ Yesterday Noon we saw the Land again, and find it to trim away Southerly from the white Rock. A strong Gale of Wind at S W. At six a clock in the Evening we lost sight of the Land, but could not come near enough to see if it was inhabited; and spy’d a Sail under our Lee-Bow bearing S E. from us, dist. about 4 Ls. We immediately let our Reefs out, chas’d and got ground of her apace: we kept sight till ten at night, when we lost her. We spoke with our Consort, and were both of opinion that the Chase would, as soon as she lost sight of us, if homeward bound, bear away to the Northward; so we ran North till Dawning: then we stood to the Westward till it was light, and our Consort kept on with an easy Sail. When it was full light we saw nothing, being thick hazy Weather: we bore away, and were with our Consort again by five a clock. Between six and seven it clear’d up: we saw the Chase bearing about S by E. between 3 and 4 Ls. from us. It falling calm, we both got out our Oars, row’d and tow’d, with our Boats a-head, and made pretty good way; had a small Breeze at North, so we set all the Sail we could, and by twelve a clock had gain’d very much ground of the Chase. We had an Observ. Lat. 52.40.

_Dec. 26._ We kept on rowing and towing till about six in the Evening; and perceiving we approach’d her, I went in the Boat to speak with Capt. _Courtney_, and agree how to engage her, if a great Ship, as she appear’d to be; and also adjusted Signals, if either of us should find it proper to board her in the night. I return’d aboard as soon as possible, when we had a fine Breeze: we got in our Boats and Oars, and made all possible Sail after the Chase, kept in sight of her till past ten a clock, bearing S S W. of us, when it came on thick again; we kept her open on the Larboard, and the _Dutchess_ on the Starboard-Bow, and being short Nights, we thought it impossible to lose one another. At one a clock this Morning my Officers persuaded me to shorten Sail, telling me we should lose our Consort if we kept on: I was prevail’d with to do so, and in the Morning had a very thick Fog, so that I could see neither our Consort nor Chase till an hour after ’twas full Light. When it clear’d up, we saw our Consort on our Larboard-Bow; we fir’d a Gun for her to bear down, but immediately we saw the Chase ahead of her about four miles, which gave us new Life. We forthwith hal’d up for them; but the Wind soon veering a-head, had a great disadvantage in the Chase. We ran at a great rate, being smooth Water; but it coming on to blow more and more, the Chase outbore our Consort: so she gave off, and being to Windward, came down very melancholy to us, supposing the Chase to have been a _French_ homeward-bound Ship from the _South-Seas_. Thus this Ship escap’d; which, considering that we always out-went her before, is as strange as our first seeing of her in this place, because all Ships that we have heard of bound out or home this way, kept within _Falkland’s_ Island. At twelve a clock we saw a little plain low Island, which bore W N W. dist. 4 Ls. not mark’d in any of our Charts. The Wind has been very veerable since six a clock last night, from the N N E to the S. where it now is. Lat. 53.11. S.

_Dec. 27._ Strong Gales, with Squalls from the South to the West. The _Dutchess_ put her Guns into the Hold again, that she took up in the Chase. Yesterday at two in the Afternoon we put about, and stood off to the Eastward from the little low Island: because we could but just weather it, we were not willing to come too near it. Lat. 54.15. S.

_Dec. 30._ Fresh Gales of Wind at West, hazy Weather mix’d with small Rain. We had an Observ. Lat. 58.20.

_January 1._ Fresh Gales of Wind from the W N W. to the W S W. with Fogs, but indifferent smooth Water. This being New-Year’s Day, every Officer was wish’d a merry New-Year by our Musick; and I had a large Tub of Punch hot upon the Quarter-Deck, where every Man in the Ship had above a Pint to his share, and drank our Owners and Friends Healths in _Great Britain_, to a happy new Year, a good Voyage, and a safe Return. We bore down to our Consort, and gave them three Huzza’s, wishing them the like.

_Jan. 2._ Fresh Gales from the W S W. to the N W. with Fogs. Clothes and Liquor were now an excellent Commodity amongst our Ships Company, who are but meanly stor’d: We had six Taylors at work for several weeks to make them Clothing, and pretty well supply’d their Wants by the spare Blankets and red Clothes belonging to the Owners; and what every Officer could spare, was alter’d for the Mens Use. The like was done on board the _Dutchess_.

[Sidenote: _From Grande towards Juan Fernandez._]

_Jan. 5._ Just past twelve Yesterday it came on to blow strong: We got down our Fore-Yard, and reef’d our Fore-Sail and Main-Sail; but there came on a violent Gale of Wind, and a great Sea. A little before six we saw the _Dutchess_ lowering her Main-Yard: the Tack flew up, and the Lift unreev’d, so that the Sail to Leeward was in the water and all a-back, their Ship took in a great deal of Water to Leeward; immediately they loos’d their Sprit-Sail, and wore her before the Wind: I wore after her, and came as near as I could to ’em, expecting when they had gotten their Main-Sail stow’d they would take another Reef in, and bring to again under a two-reef’d Main-Sail, and reef’d and ballanc’d Mizen, if the Ship would not keep to without it: but to my surprize they kept scudding to the Southward. I dreaded running amongst Ice, because it was excessive cold; so I fir’d a Gun as a Signal for them to bring to, and brought to our selves again under the same reef’d Main-Sail. They kept on, and our Men on the look-out told me they had an Ensign in their Maintop-Mast Shrouds as a Signal of Distress, which made me doubt they had sprung their Main-Mast; so I wore again, our Ship working exceeding well in this great Sea. Just before night I was up with them again, and set our Fore-Sail twice reef’d to keep ’em Company, which I did all night. About three this morning it grew more moderate; we soon after made a Signal to speak with them, and at five they brought to: when I came within haile, I enquir’d how they all did aboard; they answer’d, they had ship’d a great deal of Water in lying by, and were forc’d to put before the Wind, and the Sea had broke in the Cabin-Windows, and over their Stern, filling their Steerage and Waste, and had like to have spoil’d several Men; but God be thank’d all was otherwise indifferent well with ’em, only they were intolerably cold, and every thing wet. At ten we made sail, Wind at W N W. and moderate. Lat. 60,58.

_Jan. 6._ Raw cold Weather, with some Rain. A great Sea from the N W. little Wind from the N N W. to the West. I and Capt. _Dampier_ went in the Yall on board the _Dutchess_, to visit ’em after this Storm; where we found ’em in a very orderly pickle, with all their Clothes drying, the Ship and Rigging cover’d with them from the Deck to the Main-Top: They got six more Guns into the Hold, to make the Ship lively.

_Jan. 7._ Fresh Gales of Wind, with hazy Weather and some small Rain. Yesterday about three in the Afternoon _John Veale_ a Landman died, having lain ill a Fortnight, and had a Swelling in his Legs ever since he left _Grande_. At nine last night we bury’d him; this is the first that died by Sickness out of both Ships since we left _England_. Several of the _Dutchess_’s Men had contracted Illness by the Wet and Cold. Wind from the N N W. to the W N W.

_Jan. 10._ Strong Gales of Wind, with Squalls of Rain and Hail, and a great Sea from the W. We lay by with our Head to the Southward till 12 last night, then came to sail under three-reef’d Courses,[116] and sometimes the Maintop-Sail low set, Wind from the W. to the N. and thence to the N.W. We have no Night here. Lat. 61.53. Long. W. from _Lond._ 79.58 being the furthest we run this way, and for ought we know the furthest that any one has yet been to the Southward.

_Jan. 14._ Moderate Gales with cloudy Weather, Wind veerable. This day the _Dutchess_ bury’d a Man that died of the Scurvy.

_Jan. 15._ Cloudy Weather, with Squalls of Rain, fresh Gales at S W. We had an Observ. Lat. 56. S. We now account our selves in the _South-Sea_, being got round Cape _Horne_. The _French_ Ships that came first to trade in these Seas came thro the Straits of _Magellan_: but Experience has taught them since, that it is the best Passage to go round Cape _Horne_, where they have Sea-room enough; the Straits, being in many places very narrow, with strong Tides and no Anchor-ground.

Here I think it proper to give an Account of the first Discovery of the _South-Sea_, of the Passage to it by the Straits of _Magellan_, of the chief of those who have pass’d those Straits, and a short Description of the Country on both sides of ’em.

_An Account of the Discovery of the_ South-Sea, _and of the Straits of_ Magellan, _&c. from_ Ovalle _and other Authors_.

[Sidenote: _Account of the Discovery of the South-Sea._]

The first _European_ who discover’d the _South-Sea_, was _Basco_ or _Vasco Nuñes de Balboa_ a _Spaniard_, in 1513. He was the first who landed on the Isthmus of _Darien_, and made war with their Caciques or Princes; who not being able to resist his Fire-Arms, and perceiving that the chief Design of the _Spaniards_ was to find Gold, one of the Caciques told _Vasco_, that since they were so fond of that which he and his Countrymen valu’d so little, he would conduct them over the Mountains to another Sea, upon which they might find a Country where the People had all their Utensils of Gold. This was the first notice the _Spaniards_ had of the _South-Sea_. _Vasco_ march’d on till he came near the top of the highest Mountain, where he order’d his Men to halt, because he would have the honour of first discovering that Sea himself: which having done, he fell down on his knees and thank’d God for his Success, and call’d it the _South-Sea_, in opposition to that on the other side the Continent, Having pass’d these Mountains, he march’d down till he came to the Coast, and took possession of it in the name of the King of _Spain_. When he return’d back, he found a new _Spanish_ Governour in _Darien_ call’d _Pedrarias_; who being his Enemy because he envy’d the King’s making him Governour and Admiral of the _South-Sea_, he falsly accus’d him of Treason and cut off his Head, and sent _Gaspar Morales_ and _Francis Pizarro_ to compleat the Discovery, with a good number of Men, and large Dogs that were as terrible to the _Indians_ as the _Spaniards_ Fire-Arms. Here they discover’d the Isle of Pearls, and forc’d the Natives to fish for them, and then discover’d the rest of the Coast. The first who found a Passage from the _North-Sea_ was _Ferdinand Magaillans_, who in 1519 sail’d on purpose by Commission from the Emperor _Charles_ V. to discover it. In Lat. 52. S. he found the Passage, which from him has been since call’d the Straits of _Magellan_. _Pigafetta_ an _Italian_, who made the Voyage with him, says that in S. Lat. 49-1/2. at Port _St. Julian_, they found Giants whose Waste a middle-siz’d Man could scarce reach with his Head: they were clad with the Skins of Beasts as monstrous as themselves, arm’d with huge Bows and Arrows, and of a Strength proportionable to their Bulk, yet good-natur’d: One of them seeing himself in a Looking-Glass on board the Ship, was so frighten’d that he run backward, and tumbled down several Men that stood behind him. The Crew gave Toys to some of them, at which being mightily pleas’d, they suffer’d them to put Shackles about their Arms and Legs, which they took for Ornaments; but when they found themselves fast, bellow’d like Bulls. One of them, he says, made his Escape from nine Men, after they had got him down and ty’d his hands. Other Voyagers say they have seen such Giants in those parts, particularly Mr. _Candish_, _Sebald de Wert_ in 1599. and _Spilberg_ in 1614. but the Reader may believe of this Story what he pleases. _Pigafetta_ says the Straits were 110 Ls. long, in some places very wide, and in others not above half a League over. _Magaillans_ pass’d ’em in _Novemb._ 1520. and being overjoy’d, he call’d the Cape from whence he first saw the _South-Sea_ the _Cape of Desire_. After rambling almost four months in the _South-Sea_, where he suffer’d extreme Want, and lost many of his Men, he sail’d to the _Ladrones_ Islands, and foolishly engaging 7000 Natives in _Mathan_, which is one of them, he was kill’d. One of his Ships forsook him as he pass’d the Straits, and return’d to _Spain_: of the other four, only the Ship _Victoria_ return’d to _St. Lucar_ near _Sevil_, under the Command of _John Sebastian Cabot_, who was nobly rewarded by the Emperor.

In 1539 _Alonso de Camargo_ a _Spaniard_ pass’d the same Straits, and arriv’d at the Port of _Arequipa_ in _Peru_; but much shatter’d, having lost one of his Ships, and another leaving him, return’d to _Spain_. After him several other _Spaniards_ pass’d the same way, and they planted a Colony and Garison at the North End, to block up the Passage to other Nations; but without success, the Garison being all starved or destroy’d by the _Indians_.