A Cruising Voyage Around the World

Part 12

Chapter 123,643 wordsPublic domain

How mean soever the Natives live, the Priests have enough of Splendor and Plenty. Their Churches and Steeples are lofty, have four or five Bells apiece, most of ’em a couple of Organs, Altars, and Pulpits richly gilt, Images well painted, plenty of Silver Candlesticks, Chalices, and other Church-Plate; and the Ornaments of the Priests and Altars are as rich as in _Europe_. They teach the Natives to sing and play on all Musical Instruments both for Devotion and War; so that according to the Jesuits they go now more merrily to Heaven than formerly they did to Hell, and the good Fathers divert themselves with Sets of Musicians on the Banks of the Rivers and in charming Islands. Nor can we wonder that they live so merrily, since they fare so well; for besides all sorts of delicious Fruits and Preserves, they have plenty of Fowl, Fish, and Venison of all sorts, as well as ordinary Butchers Meat; only the Tygers, which are very numerous, frequently put in for a share with them, invade their Flocks and their Followers: but if you’ll believe our Father, they never attack the Clergy, they have such a Respect for their Cloth, and are so civil to _Europeans_, that they’l charge the _Indians_ in their Company, and let them go scot-free; and the Serpents, which likewise abound here, are charm’d by _Ave Mary’s_ into the like Good-Manners. The Priests use Honey for their Sallets, for they have no Oil, so that they are very hard put to it. They had Silver in such plenty, says the Father, that old Shoes and Hats were much more valuable. And as if the Missionaries had not Work enough otherwise, Father _Sepp_ tells us, the Natives when they kill their Cows bring ’em to the good Jesuits to allow each their share; and to be sure the Hides fall to the Missionaries, for he says the three Ships which brought him and his Companions from _Spain_, carry’d back 300000 Ox-Hides, which they had for nothing, and each Hide he says would yield ’em six Crowns at home. A good Horse-shoe he says is here worth six Horses, and the Bit of a Bridle worth three. An Ell of Linen is worth four or five Crowns; for they have no Hemp or Flax, but store of Cotton: and one Sheep, Lamb or Kid, is for the sake of the Wool worth three Oxen or Cows. Tho the Natives, he says, are so dull that they can’t do the most frivolous thing without direction, yet they are so good at Imitation, that if you give them Models, they will make any thing very well. Thus he says the _Indian_ Women after ripping a piece of Bone-Lace with a Needle, will make one by the same pattern very exactly; and so the Men do Trumpets, Hautboys, Organs, or Watches; and copy Pictures, Printing and Writing to admiration.

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]

But they are so lazy that they must be forc’d to their work by blows, at the direction of the Missionaries, who tho they convert ’em themselves, make them cudgel one another. This they take very patiently, give no ill Language, but cry _Jesu Maria!_ and thank the good Fathers into the bargain for taking such care of ’em; so that they have learnt Passive-Obedience to perfection. But to make them amends, our Author says the Missionaries teach their young ones to dance as well as to sing in the Church, when they are habited in rich Apparel: so that they are extremely taken with the Ornaments of our Religion, says he, which raises in them a high Esteem and Affection; and indeed ’twould be a wonder if it should not. The Missionaries do now take care to instruct both Sexes in all necessary Employments, Reading, Writing, _&c._ They have also taught ’em to make Images, especially of our Lady of _Ottingen_; and very good reason, for if we believe _Sepp_, she has done abundance of Miracles there. The Fathers wear Caps like a Bishop’s, and black Linen Cassocks when they go abroad; and instead of Canes use Crosses, which have a peculiar Virtue to knock Serpents o’ the head.

The Soil is so fruitful that it produces a hundred fold, tho sorrily manur’d. The Natives sow nothing but _Turky_ Wheat, and scarce enough of that, they are so lazy: and are likewise such bad Husbands, that they would eat all at once, did not the Missionary force ’em to lay it up in his Barn, where he distributes it to ’em as they want, and so he does their Flesh. They have no Mills, but pround their Wheat in a Mortar, and make it into Cakes which they bake on Coals, or boil with their Meat. The Fathers have white Bread for themselves, which the Natives value so much, that they will give two or three Horses for a Loaf; and of these the Missionaries have good store, for they have always 40 or 50 Acres sow’d with Wheat for themselves: Land, Corn, Cattel, and every thing is theirs; so that they call all the People their Sons and Daughters, and perhaps there’s just cause enough to give many of ’em that Title. These Lords Proprietors assign every Family their number of Cows and Oxen to till their Ground, and to eat; tho one would think they might have enough for the taking, without asking any body’s leave: and yet our Father says he has been forc’d to chide his Parishioners for killing and eating their Oxen, and roasting them with their wooden Plows in the very Field while they were tilling the Ground; for which they pleaded in excuse that they and their Wives were hungry and weary: and yet there was no great reason for the latter, since their Plows, says our Author, don’t enter above three inches into the Ground. They need no Hay for their Cattel, since they go up to the knees in Grass all the year. This is the way of living in those Cantons, which the Missionaries call Reductions, because, if you’ll believe ’em, they have reduc’d them to Christianity by their Preaching, tho the _Spaniards_ could never do it by their Arms.

Our Linguist told me that the Road from _Buenos-Ayres_ to _Chili_ is only passable in the Summer Months, when Commodities are purchas’d at that Town, and transported by Land to _Chili_.

On that Road about 100 Leagues N. W. from _Buenos-Ayres_ lies the City of _Cordoua_, which is the See of a Bishop, has ten Churches, and an University. ’Twas founded in 1573. says F. _Techo_, by a Native of _Cordoua_ in _Old Spain_, when there were 60000 Archers reckon’d in its Territory, about 8000 of whom continu’d in subjection, but the others revolted. ’Tis now the Metropolis of the Province, and the Jesuits have a Chappel in their College there, which for Riches and Beauty may vie with the best in _Europe_. The Natives of this Country were very barbarous, made use of Sorcery to satisfy their Revenge, and of Philtres of their own Blood to gratify their Lust. Both Sexes daub’d their Faces with strange Colours, and each Village was govern’d by a Sorcerer, who pretended to be their Physician. To shew their Courage, they would draw Arrows thro the Skins of their Bellies, and they fought Duels with sharp Stones, standing foot to foot, and holding down their Heads to receive the Blows from one another by turns. He that struck first was reckon’d the most fearful: It was accounted disgraceful to dress their Wounds, and the Conqueror was applauded by hideous Shouts from the Spectators. ’Twas a long time before the Missionaries could reform those barbarous Customs.

Another Town on this Road is _Mendosa_, where they make large quantities of Wine, Brandy, and Oil.

So much for that part of this vast Country which lies towards _Chili_ and _Brazile_: I shall next come to that part which lies towards _Peru_, and particularly the Road to _Potosi_ and the Mines.

_Santa-Fe_ is the next _Spanish_ Settlement of note to _Buenos-Ayres_, from which it lies 80 Leagues N W. at the mouth of a River which falls into _La Plata_. The Country betwixt this Town and _Buenos-Ayres_ is fruitful, well inhabited by _Spaniards_ and _Indians_, and produces Wheat from forty to an hundred fold, and abounds with Cattel. The Town is encompass’d with a River, and built of Brick. Our Prisoners and Linguist told us that there are Mines of Gold and Silver in the Neighbourhood, but the _Spaniards_ don’t care to open them, because the Conveniency of sailing up the River might encourage Enemies to invade and take them from ’em. This Town was built by the _Spaniards_ when they first settled, for the Defence of this River.

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]

_St. Jago de l’Istero_ 200 Leagues N W. from _Santa-Fe_, is a pretty Town govern’d by a Corregidore, has three Churches, and lies on the River that runs down to _Santa-Fe_. Hither the Plate is brought from _Potosi_ on Mules, because the Roads are bad; and from hence it is carry’d to _Buenos-Ayres_ by Waggons. Next to this Town lies _St. Miquel de Toloman_ 200 Leagues N W. Then _Salta_ 150 Leagues. This Town contains six Churches. Then _Ogui_ 50 Leagues further, which has five Churches.

_Potosi_ is next, lies N. of the Tropick of _Capricorn_ about S. Lat. 21. Long. 73. Our Linguist tells us the City is large, has ten Churches govern’d by an Arch-Priest. The Town stands at the bottom of that call’d _the Silver Hill_, which is round like a Sugar-Loaf. There are 1500 or 2000 _Indians_ constantly at work in the Mines here; they have two Reals a day, and are paid every Sunday. The Mines are a hundred fathom deep, and the Silver is grown much scarcer of late. Provisions are scarce at this Town, and they have no Firing but Charcoal, which is brought from 30 to 50 Ls. distance. They have great Frosts and Snow here in _May_, _June_, and _July_. _Knivet_ in his Remarks says, in his time they were well supply’d here with all things from the _South-Sea_, and that the Natives in the adjoining Country traffick’d in Gold and precious Stones; and hundreds of ’em ply’d upon the Road to carry Passengers from Town to Town in Nets fasten’d to Canes, and supported by two or more Men; which was the easiest way of travelling, and they desir’d no other Reward but a Fish-Hook and a few Glass-Beads. They have also Sheep of an extraordinary Size, with large Tails, upon which they carry’d Jars of Oil and Wine. He says the rich Oar when taken out of these Mines looks like Black Lead, then they grind it by certain Engines, and wash it thro fine Sieves into pav’d Cisterns. They make the _Indians_ and other Slaves work quite naked in the Mines, that they mayn’t hide any thing.

The Curious who would know more of the Manners of the Natives, or the History and particular Product of this large Country, may find it in _Gemelli_,[112] Father _Sepp_, and Father _Techo_,[113] but this is enough for my purpose, to shew what a vast Field of Trade may be open’d here, and how dangerous it may prove to all _Europe_, if the House of _Bourbon_ continue possess’d of that Trade.

Some being of Opinion that our _South-Sea_ Company may possess themselves, by virtue of the late Act, of the River _de la Plata_, as far up that River and Country as they please, either in the Provinces of _Paraguay_ or _Tucuman_; I shall give a further Description of those large Provinces, after taking notice that according to several of our Draughts _Paraguay_ lies both on the E. and W. side of the River _La Plata_; according to others, entirely on the E. side, and _Tucuman_ on the W. side. The _Sansons_ make _Paraguay_ 720 miles from S. to N. and 480, where broadest, from E. to W. and place it betwixt S. Lat. 14 & 24. Long. 315 & 325. but the Breadth is not equal. Father _Techo_ says the River _Paraguay_, which gives name to the Country, is one of the greatest in _America_, receives several other large Rivers, runs 300 Leagues before it falls into the _Parana_, about 200 from the Sea is navigable, and together with the _Parana_ forms the River _La Plata_. The word _Paraguay_ in the Language of the Country signifies the Crown’d River, because the Inhabitants wear Crowns of Feathers of several beautiful Colours, which they have from the Birds that abound in that Country. I shall not insist upon the several Nations that inhabit it, among whom the _Garanians_ are the chief, and submitted first to the _Spaniards_; but growing weary of the Slavery they subjected them to, revolted, and were with much difficulty subdu’d after their Leaders were cut off, about 1539. The chief Discovery of this Country is owing to _Dominick Irala_, who in the Reign of the Emperor _Charles_ V. was sent by the Governour _Alvar Nunez Cabeca de Vaca_ with 300 chosen Men, and went 250 Leagues up this River, to endeavour a Communication with _Peru_, but was oppos’d by some of the Natives, of whom 4000 were kill’d, and 3000 taken in a Battel. The Governour went afterwards on the Discovery himself, and sailing up the River, came to a delicious Island, which his Men call’d _Paradise_, and would have settled there, but he dissuaded them, and advancing to the Borders of _Peru_, found a large Town of 8000 Houses deserted by the Inhabitants, who were affrighted with the noise of the _Spanish_ Fire-Arms. ’Tis said they found in this Town a great Market-place, with a wooden Tower in form of a Pyramid built in the middle, and a monstrous Serpent kept in it by which the Devil pronounc’d Oracles: this Serpent they kill’d with their Fire-Arms. But a Difference happening betwixt the Officers and Soldiers about dividing the Booty, they return’d to _Assumption_ without pursuing the Discovery any further.

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]

This Province, till that of _Tucuman_ was taken from it, contain’d all the Country betwixt _Brazile_ and _Peru_. Our Author adds, that besides the Towns above-mention’d the _Spaniards_ built here _Corientes_ on the Conflux of the _Paraguay_ and _Parana_, which is but a small Town, no way suiting the Dignity of those two Rivers: That 100 Leagues up the _Parana_, in the Province of _Guirana_, the _Spaniards_ built two little Towns call’d _Villarica_ and _Guaira_; that on the upper part of the _Paraguay_ they built _Xeres_ and another _Villarica_, to join _Paraguay_ on that side to the further Provinces; and lastly, the City of _Conception_ on the Marshes of the red River which falls into _Parana_, and was of great use to curb the fierce Nations in the Neighbourhood. He adds, that all these Towns were first planted by a Race of the noblest Families in _Spain_. He mentions an extraordinary Herb here call’d _Paraguay_ by the name of the Country; it grows in marshy Grounds, and the Leaves being dry’d and powder’d, and mix’d with warm Water, the _Spaniards_ and Natives drink it several times a day, which makes them vomit, and strengthens their Appetite. They look upon it as a sort of Catholicon, use it so much that they can’t live without it; and this Custom has so much overspread the neighbouring Provinces, that the Inhabitants will sell any thing to purchase it, tho the excessive Use of it occasions the same Distempers as the immoderate Use of Wine. They did so fatigue the Natives to gather and powder this Herb, that multitudes of ’em died; and this, with other slavish Employments, did much dis-people the Country. The Natives live mostly by Fishing, Hunting, and Shooting.

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]

_Tucuman_ is 300 Leagues long, but varies much in breadth. ’Tis inhabited by four Nations: The furthest South have no fix’d Dwellings, live by Fishing and Hunting, and carry about Mats to serve them for Tents. The North People live in Marshes, and feed most on Fish. The Southern People are the tallest, but the Northern the fiercest; and many of them live in Caves, but those nearest _Peru_ in Villages. They are all very slothful, and have store of Brass and Silver, but make little use of them. They have large Sheep which carry their Burdens, and their Wool is almost as fine as Silk. They have many Lions, not so large and fierce as those of _Africa_, but their Tygers are fiercer than those of other Countries. Their two chief Rivers are _Dulce_ and _Salado_, so call’d from the sweet and salt Taste of their Waters. They have multitudes of Springs and Lakes, some of which have a petrifying quality. The Country was formerly very populous, but their Numbers are much decreas’d since the _Spaniards_ planted among them. They easily subdu’d this Country, which was govern’d by abundance of petty Princes continually at war with one another. This Province was first discover’d in 1530. by one _Cæsar_ a Soldier belonging to _Sebastian Cabot_, and three more, at the time when _Pizarro_ took _Atabalipa_ the Great _Inga_ of _Peru_. In 1540. the Viceroy of _Peru_, _Vaca de Castro_, assign’d this Country to _John Rojas_ as a Reward for his Services. He went thither with 200 _Spaniards_, but was kill’d on the Frontiers by a poison’d Arrow, and his Men under _Francis Mendoza_ march’d thro to the River of Plate. _Mendoza_ being kill’d as going up that River by Mutineers, _John Nunez Prada_ was sent hither by the Viceroy _Peter Gasca_, subdu’d the _Indians_, built the Town of _St. Michel_ on the Banks of the River _Escava_, and settled Fryars there. This Province was afterwards subjected to _Chili_; and _Francis d’Acquire_ being sent thither with 200 _Spaniards_, destroy’d _St. Michel_, and built _St. Jago_, now the Metropolis of _Tucuman_, on the River _Dulce_, in S. Lat. 28. says _Techo_, but others place it on the River _Salado_. ’Tis the same Town I have already describ’d. In 1558. _Tarita_ being made Governour of this Province, built the City of _London_ near the Borders of _Chili_, about Lat. 29. calling it so out of compliment to Q. _Mary_ of _England_, at that time marry’d to _Philip_ II. of _Spain_. This Town serv’d to curb the Natives. _Tarita_ did likewise rebuild _St. Michel_, and reduc’d the Country so much, that 80000 _Indians_ who submitted to _Spain_ were muster’d in the Territory of _St. Jago_. The _Spaniards_, as was usual in those days, fighting with one another about the Command of the Provinces, _Tarita_ was drove out in 1561. by _Castaneda_; so that most of the Natives revolted, till 1563. that _Francis d’Acquire_ reduc’d ’em again, and built _Esteco_ above-mention’d. But the _Spaniards_ contending afterwards with one another about the Government, many of their Settlements were destroy’d; so that in _Techo’s_ time the chief Places remaining in this Country were _St. Jago_, _Cordoua_, _St. Michel_, _Salta_ or _Lerma_, _Xuxui_ or _St. Salvador_, _Rioja_, _Esteco_ or _Nuestra Señora de Talavera_, _London_, and a few other small Garisons. He says that in this Country it does not rain in Winter, but in Summer they have thick Mists and Rains enough. The Jesuits are the chief Missionaries here, and settled in the principal Towns. He adds, that near the City _Conception_, which is ninety Leagues from _St. Jago_, the Natives were call’d _Frontones_, because they made the Fore-part of their Heads bald. Their Arms were a Club at their Girdle, Bows and Arrows, and Staves set with Jawbones of Fishes. They went naked, and painted their Bodies to make them look terrible. They were continually at War among themselves about the Limits of their Land, and they fix’d the Bodies of their slain Enemies in Rows to the Trunks of Trees, that others might be afraid of invading their Borders.

He adds, that the Country about _St. Michael_ is well peopled, abounds with Woods, and all sorts of _European_ and other Fruits, so that it was call’d _The Land of Promise_; but they are much infested with Tygers, which the Natives kill with great dexterity. _Guaira_ a Province of _Paraguay_ is very hot, because for the most part under the Tropick of _Capricorn_; is very fruitful, but subject to Fevers and other Diseases: yet when the _Spaniards_ came hither in 1550, they are said to have found 300000 People in this Country, but they say there’s scarce a fifth part of that number now; and the Natives very miserable, having no Meat but the Flesh of wild Beasts nor Bread but what they make of the Root _Mandiosa_. There are Stones here which breed in an oval Stone-Case, about the bigness of a Man’s Head. Our Author says, they lie under ground, and when they come to maturity, break with a noise like Bombs, and scatter abundance of beautiful Stones of all colours; which at first the _Spaniards_ took to be of great Value, but did not find ’em so. The other remarkable Product of this Country is a Flower call’d _Granadillo_, which the Jesuit says represents the Instrument of our Saviour’s Passion, and produces a Fruit as big as a common Egg, the Inside of which is very delicious. 2. A Fruit call’d _Guembe_, which is very sweet, but has yellow Kernels, which if chew’d, occasions a sharp Pain in the Jaws. 3. Dates, of which they make Wine and Pottage. 4. Wild Swine which have their Navel on their backs, and if not cut off immediately when the Beast is kill’d, corrupts the whole Carcase. 5. Abundance of wild Bees, several sorts of which yield store of Honey and Wax. 6. Snakes which dart from the Trees, and twist themselves about Men or Beasts, and soon kill ’em if they be not immediately cut in pieces. 7. _Macaqua_ Birds, so call’d because of an Herb which they eat as an Antidote when hurt by Snakes, which lie and watch for them in the Marshes. They frequently fight those Snakes, for which Nature has provided them with sharp Beaks for a Weapon, and strong Wings to serve them as a Buckler. Our Author mentions the River _Paranapan_, which runs thro this Country, is almost as large as the _Paraguay_, and falls into the _Parana_. Its Banks on both sides are cover’d with tall Trees, especially Cedars, of so vast a Bulk that they make Canoes out of a single Trunk, which row with twenty Oars. The Jesuits built the Towns of _Loretto_ and _St Ignatius_, and two more near the Conflux of this River and the _Pyrapus_, about 1610, and eleven more have since been built in that Province, where they have brought over many of the Inhabitants to their Religion. They kill’d many of the _Spaniards_ at first, and then eat them. These Towns are plac’d by the _Sansons_ about Lat. 22. and betwixt Long. 325, and 330.

[Sidenote: _Account of the River Oronoco._]