Part 11

1535. and they had so great hopes of finding Mines of Gold and Silver, that above thirty Heirs of noble Families went on the Expedition; and sailing 50 Leagues up the River, where the Air was good, he founded a Town, which from thence was call’d _Buenos-Ayres_. They built a Fort, and enlarg’d the Town; but as they were carrying on their Work, the Natives attack’d them, and overpowering them with Numbers, kill’d 250, among whom were several of the chief Men. This oblig’d the _Spaniards_ to keep within their Fort, where they suffer’d much by Famine. _Mendoza_ return’d towards _Spain_, but died miserably, with many of his Companions, for want of Provisions by the way. His Deputy-Governour _Oyola_ sail’d up into _Paraguay_, in quest of a Country said to abound with Gold and Silver; but was treacherously slain by the Natives, with all his Followers.

_Irala_ who was his Deputy, and left at _Buenos-Ayres_, contracted a Friendship with some of the Natives call’d _Guaranians_. In 1538. he built _Assumption_ in their Country, which is now the Metropolis of _Paraguay_, and left _Buenos-Ayres_ for a time. _Assumption_ lies on the Banks of the River _Paraguay_, in S. Lat. 25. 240 Leagues from the Sea, and 40 from the Mouth of the River _Paraguay_, where it falls into _La Plata_, These Rivers after they join continue their natural Colour for several miles, _La Plata_ being clear, and _Paraguay_ muddy. The latter is by much the most considerable River, and the adjacent Country abounds with Mines of Gold and Silver, and is navigable above 200 Leagues. The River _Uruquay_ falls into _Paraguay_ on the right side, and runs a Course of 300 Leagues, according to _Sepp_ the Jesuit, who in his Voyage says ’tis as big as the _Danube_ at _Vienna_. In short, as to this River _La Plata_, Authors are not agreed. Some of the Jesuits who are Missionaries in those Countries think it to be the same with that call’d _Paraguay_ higher up in the Country, and that it has a Communication with the North-East Coast of _Brazile_ by the River _St. Meary_, which rises out of the same Lake, and runs N E. as _Paraguay_ or _Plata_ runs S. and afterwards to the S E. when it falls into the Sea. Be that how it will, here are many Rivers which fall into the same Channel on both sides. But that which is commonly call’d _La Plata_, begins near the Town of that Name about S. Lat. 19. and after running N. a little way, takes its Course S E. till it join the River _Paraguay_. So that I chuse rather to trust to the Account given us by Mr. _White_ our Linguist, who having dwelt long in that Country, told me this River derives its Name from the Town of _La Plata_, a sort of Metropolis to which there lies an Appeal from other Jurisdictions. He adds, that ’tis a pretty Town, has fourteen Churches with a Cathedral, and four Nunneries, and lies North-west from _Buenos-Ayres_ about 500 Leagues, which requires commonly two months and a half’s Travel.

All are agreed that _La Plata_ is very large at the Mouth, where some account it 50, and others 30 Leagues broad. The Mouth of it is dangerous because of Sands, and therefore requires Pilots. _Knivet_,[109] in his Description of the _West-Indies_, says, the best way to avoid those Sands is to keep near the North Shore till you come to a high Mountain white at top; and then to sail 4 Ls. South, to another small Hill on the North side, near which you must sail. This brings you into a fair Bay, where you must still keep along shore: and after passing the West Point of this Bay, you come to the River _Maroer_, and then there are no more Shoals between that and _Buenos-Ayres_.

_La Plata_ runs into the Sea about S. Lat. 35. and sometimes overflows the Country for several miles, when the Natives put their Goods into Canoes, and float about till the Inundation assuages, and then they return to their Habitations. _Ovalle_ gives the following Account of this River, _viz._ That it runs with such a mighty Stream into the Sea, as makes it fresh for a great way: That the Water of this River is very sweet, clears the Voice and Lungs, and is good against all Rheums and Defluxions: That the People who dwell about it have excellent Voices, and are all inclin’d to Musick: That it petrifies the Branches of Trees, and other things which fall into it; and that Vessels are naturally form’d of its Sand, which are of various Figures, look as if they were polish’d by Art, and keep Water very cool. It breeds great store of excellent Fish of divers sorts, and most beautiful Birds of all kinds are seen on its Banks. _Sepp_ informs us, that this River and _Uraguay_ abound so with Fish, that the Natives catch great numbers of them without any other Instrument than their Hands: one of the choicest, call’d the Kings-Fish, is small without Bones, and taken only in Winter. Our Author, says he never saw any _European_ Fish in this latter, except one that the _Spaniards_ call _Bocado_; and that the Fish are larger here than ours, of a dark or yellow colour, and well tasted; which he ascribes to the nature of

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]

the Water, that tho drunk in great quantities even after raw Fruit, helps Digestion, and never does any hurt. The Plains about this River are so large and even, without any Obstruction to the Sight, that the Sun seems to rise and set in them. Their way of travelling in those Plains is by high Carts cover’d with Hoops and Cows-Hides like our Waggons, with Conveniency for Travellers to sleep in the bottom; which is so much the better, because they travel most by night to avoid the Heat. They are drawn by Oxen, which are frequently so pinch’d by Drought, that when they come towards any Water, which they smell at a great distance, they run furiously to it, and drink up the very Mud which they raise with their Feet. This obliges Travellers to furnish themselves with Water and other Provisions for their Journy; there being no Water to be had, except by Rain: so that Travellers are frequently as much distress’d for want of Water as the Oxen, and can scarce get any that’s clear at the Watering-places, tho they send before-hand, because the Oxen run with so much haste to it that they make it all in a puddle: _Ovalle_ says, that in this case Travellers are forc’d to stop their Noses and shut their Eyes when they drink it. The Journy thro these Plains is at least 14 or 20 days, without any place of shelter, or any Firing to dress their Victuals but the dry’d Dung of Cattle. Yet there are several Lakes and Ponds where Inns might be fix’d, but ’tis neglected because there’s no settled Trade that way.

It remains to give some account of the Towns upon the River _Plata_ and on the Road to _Potosi_. 1. _Buenos-Ayres_ lies upon the River 50 Leagues from the Sea, about Lat. 36. Our Linguist inform’d me that ’tis the Residence of a _Spanish_ Governour, is defended by a Stone Fort mounted with 40 Guns, and is generally garison’d by 4 or 500 Men. The Harbour is pretty good, but troublesom in a N W. and W. Wind. The River is 7 Ls. broad there, and navigable by Ships 60 Ls. above the Town, but no further, because of a great Cataract. The Town has one Cathedral, and five other Churches: The _Portuguese_ had a Settlement over against this Town, but were dislodg’d by the _Spaniards_ at the beginning of this War; since which time the _French_ drive a _Guinea_ Trade hither for Negroes, who are sent over Land to _Peru_ and _Chili_, and yield them vast Profit. The Trade from hence to _Spain_ is in Hides and Tallow, Silver from _Peru_, and Gold and Silver from _Chili_. All _European_ Goods yield a good Price here. They have plenty of Fruit-Trees about the Town of all kinds, both of the hot and cold Climates; and have store of Wheat and other _European_ Grain, besides _Indian_ Corn. Thousands of Cattel of all sorts run wild in the Neighbourhood, and they furnish _Peru_ with 50000 Mules _per ann._ In short, this place lies very convenient for Commerce in Silver and Gold, and the other Commodities of _Peru_ and _Chili_, which the _French_ have now begun to engross. They sent three Ships to those parts and the _South-Sea_, under M. _de Beauchesne Gouin_[110] of _St. Malo_ in 1698, of whose Progress I shall give a further account from a Copy of his Journal, as I go on with my Description of the Coasts. Their Winter here is in _May_, _June_, and _July_, when ’tis cold by night, but warm enough by day, the Frost never being violent, nor the Snow considerable in those parts.

Father _Sepp_,[111] who was here in 1691. tells us in his Voyage from _Spain_ to _Paraquaria_ or _Paraguay_, that _Buenos-Ayres_ has only two Streets built crosswise; that there are four Convents, one of which belongs to the Jesuits; that their Houses and Churches are built of Clay, and not above one Story high; that the Jesuits have taught them of late to burn Lime, and make Tiles and Bricks, with which they now begin to build. The Castle is likewise of Clay, encompass’d with an earthen Wall and a deep Trench, and defended by 900 _Spaniards_; tho in case of necessity above 30000 _Indian_ Horse might be arm’d out of the several Cantons, where they have been train’d by the Jesuits: But this boasting Account I can’t believe. They have in the Neighbourhood whole Woods of Peach, Almond, and Fig-Trees, which they propagate by putting the Kernels in the Ground: they grow so fast as to produce Fruit the first Year, and their Timber is us’d for Fewel. The adjacent Pastures are so fat and large, that many thousands of Beeves feed together; so that any one when he pleases goes into the Field, throws a Rope about their Horns, brings ’em home and kills ’em. They are very large, generally white, and being so numerous, are valu’d only for their Hides, Tallow, and Tongues; the rest being expos’d to the Birds and Beasts of Prey, which are very numerous, and frequently destroy the Calves. The Natives feed most on Beef half-raw without Bread or Salt, and in such quantities that they throw

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]

themselves naked into cold Water, that they may retain the natural Heat within their Entrails to help Digestion; and sometimes they lie down with their Stomachs in hot Sand: but their Gluttony in devouring so much raw Flesh fills them so with Worms, that they seldom live till 50 Years old. There are such numbers of Partridges here, and so tame, that they knock them down with sticks as they walk in the fields. The Missionaries, who are absolute Masters of the Natives in the neighbouring Cantons of _Paraguay_, &c. suffer none of ’em to come nearer _Buenos-Ayres_ than two or three Leagues, on pretence that they would be corrupted by the ill Example of the _Spaniards_; and under that same pretence they won’t suffer the _Spaniards_ to settle in their Missions, which extend above 200 Leagues up the River; nor do they allow Merchants who trade thither to stay above a few days; the true cause of which is, they are not willing that the Laity should be privy to the Wealth they heap up there, in a Country which abounds with Gold, nor be Witnesses to their splendid, or rather luxurious way of living. Sometimes Complaints of this Procedure of the Jesuits have been made to the _Spanish_ Governours, but they find a way to bribe them to silence. This I was inform’d of by those who have been among them, and am confirm’d in it by Father _Sepp_: He does not dissemble that the Missionaries have a Despotical Power over the Natives, tho he gives it another Turn, and pretends that ’tis necessary in order to convert and force them to work. He says the Jesuits are Captains, teach them the Use of Arms, and how to draw up into Squadrons and Battallions; which he boasts they can do as well as the _Europeans_. The Jesuits obtain’d this Power, on the specious Pretence of reducing those _Indians_ to the Obedience of the _Spaniards_, which they would not submit to till within these few Years. This Management is so much the more easily carry’d on, because the Ecclesiastical Government there is lodg’d in the hands of one Bishop only and three Canons; and the Missionaries being compos’d of all Nations, few of them have any natural Affection to the _Spanish Government_. This is the more to be observ’d, because the Jesuits being an intriguing Society, and generally in the _French_ Interest, it would seem to be the Concern of the Allies to recover the Trade of those Countries from the House of _Bourbon_ with all possible speed, left by making themselves Masters of the vast Treasures of _Peru_ and _Chili_, they be enabled at last to compleat their Design of an Universal Monarchy. Father _Sepp_ says, that Silver in 1691. was cheaper here than Iron; that for a Twopenny Knife one may have a Crown, for a Hat of two Shillings 10 or 12 Crowns, and for a Gun of ten or twelve Shillings 30 Crowns; that Provisions are so plenty here, that a fat Cow may be bought for the Value of 10 _d._ or 12 _d._ a good Ox for a few Needles, a stout Horse for about 2 _s._ that he has seen two given for a Knife not worth 6 _d._ and that he and his Company had 20 Horses for a few Trifles that did not cost them a Crown; being only a few Needles, Fish-Hooks, sorry Knives, Tobacco, and a little Bread. He mentions a Cataract in the River _Uruquay_, which he says Providence has plac’d here for the advantage of the poor _Indians_ against the Avarice of the _Spaniards_; who not being able to go further with their Vessels, have been hitherto confin’d to _Buenos-Ayres_, and could not settle in those Cantons, tho very inviting, because of the vast Profit they might draw from them. This he reckons a great Happiness to the Natives, who being a simple People, would not only be soon infected with the Vices of the _Spaniards_, but enslav’d by ’em: for, says he, they make no difference betwixt Pagan and Christian Natives, but treat them promiscuously like Dogs. He adds, that this Province of _Paraquaria_ or _Paraguay_ exceeds in bigness _Germany_, _France_, _Italy_, and the _Netherlands_ put together; (wherein I doubt he exceeds:) That they have no Cities, and are govern’d by 80 Colleges of Jesuits, in which there are no more than 160 Persons; and that these Colleges are from 100 to 600 Miles distant from one another. There’s one Plain of 200 Leagues long betwixt _Buenos-Ayres_ and _Corduba_ in _Tucuman_, without so much as a Tree or Cottage, and yet it contains the best Pastures in the World, fill’d with Cattel of all sorts which have no Owners.

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]

He describes the Natives thus: The Men are not quite so tall as _Europeans_, but have thick Legs and large Joints. Their Faces are round, flattish, and of an Olive Colour; and their Arms are Bows and Arrows. Some of the strongest have many Scars on their Bodies, occasion’d by Wounds which they gave themselves when young, that these Scars may be remaining Proofs of their Courage. Their Hair is black, long, and as strong as that of a Horse. The Women look more like Devils than rational Creatures, with their Hair loose over their Foreheads, and the rest twisted in Locks behind, which hang as low as their Hips. Their Faces are wrinkled, their Arms, Shoulders and Breasts naked; and their Ornaments are Fish-Bones made like Scales of Mother-of-Pearl about their Necks, Arms and Hands. The Wives of their Caciques or petty Princes wear a sort of Triple Crowns of Straw. The Caciques wear Doe-Skins hanging over their shoulders; the rest only a piece of a Skin wrap’d about their middle, and hanging down before to their knees. The Boys and Girls are quite naked. They have holes in their Ears and Chins, in which they put Fish-Bones, or a colour’d Feather tied by a thred, and Feathers of several colours fasten’d to a string round their Necks. They wrap their Infants as soon as born in a Tyger’s Skin, give them the Breast for a little while, and then half-raw Meat to suck. He says, the Men at the death of their nearest Relations cut off a Finger of their own left Hand; and if it be a handsom Daughter, they make a Feast and drink out of her Skull. They live in Straw Hutts without Roofs, and their Utensils are a few Sticks for Spits, and Pumpkins hollow’d out, in which they eat their Meats. Their Beds are the Hides of Oxen or Tygers, spread on the ground; but the Caciques, and those of Note, lie in a Net fasten’d to two Poles for Hammocks, at some distance from the ground, being a Security against wild Beasts and Serpents. Our Author says that he sent well-boil’d Meat to several of them when sick, which they receiv’d thankfully; but afterwards gave it to their Dogs, because they lik’d their own Cookery better.

It is now time to see how the Missionaries live among those Flocks over whom they assume the Pastoral Care. Father _Sepp_ tells us, that he and other new Missionaries were welcom’d by some of them with 20 Musicians in a Train, abundance of Boats equip’d like Galleys lin’d with Firelocks, and having Drums, Trumpets, and Hautboys on board. The Missionaries brought ’em Sweatmeats, and all sort of Fruit; and the _Indians_ diverted them by wrestling in the Water, and Salvoes of their Fire-Arms, _&c._ They conducted them thro a green Triumphal Arch to the Church, where the Women were so earnest at their Devotion, that not one of them cast an eye upon our Father and his Companions: so that here were a Militant and a Triumphant Church both together. When the Devotion was over, the chief of the _Indians_ welcom’d the Father and the rest of the Missionaries, by a short but very pathetick Speech; and one of the _Indian_ Women did the like with wonderful Elegancy, says the Jesuit, who it seems is not against Women speaking in the Church. That and the next day they spent in Mirth and Jollity, and in the Evening were diverted by four Dances; 1. By Boys, who danc’d with Pikes and Lances. 2. By a couple of Fencing-Masters. 3. By six Seamen. 4. By six Boys on horseback, who afterwards gave them a kind of Tournament, the place being illuminated by Ox-Horns fill’d with Suet, for they have no Oil nor Wax. On _Whitsunday_, which happen’d soon after, the Missionaries went to Church, and return’d Thanks for so many Converts; as certainly they had reason, since they are such merry ones.

These Cantons, he says, are 26, and have but one or two Missionaries apiece, tho they contain from 3000 to 6000 People each, and sometimes more; so that they must either have too much work, or perform it very slightly, especially if they be so ignorant as our Father says, that if they be neglected one day, they scarce know how to make the Sign of the Cross the next: And besides all the Pastoral Work, the Missionaries must act the part of Clerks, and clean the Church-Ornaments and Plate; for these poor Wretches are uncapable of doing it. To be short, says he, the Missionary must be Cook, Nurse, Doctor, Architect, Gardiner, Weaver, Smith, Painter, Baker, Potter, Tile-maker, and every thing else that is necessary in a Commonwealth. This he supposes will appear incredible (and he’s certainly in the right) but he says ’tis the naked Truth; the Natives being so stupid, that unless he plainly shew his _Indian_ Cook how much Salt he must put in each Pot, he would put all into one, tho ever so much; and he must see them wash the Vessels, unless he would be poison’d: yet this Father, for all his other hard work, must look after his Garden, Orchard, and Vineyard, where he has all sorts of Flowers, Herbs, Roots and Fruits, and so many Vines as produce 500 large Casks of Wine in a Year, if not prevented by multitudes of Pismires, Wasps, Birds, or by the North Winds, which sometimes make Wine so dear, that a Cask yields 20 or 30 Crowns; and after all, ’tis not to be preserv’d from turning sour without a great mixture of Lime. The chief Distemper of the Natives is the Worms before-mention’d, the bloody Flux [dysentery] and spotted Fever, which frequently carry off great numbers. The Medicines which the Missionaries give against Worms, is a Vomit of Tabacco-Leaves; and after that, sour Lemon-Juice with those of Mint and Rue put into Milk.

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]

These Cantons or Towns, he says, are generally upon an Ascent near the Rivers _Uruguay_ and _Paraguay_, and contain young and old from 6000 to 8000 Souls. Each Canton has a Church and a square Market-place near it, the rest being divided into Streets of Clay-Hutts cover’d with Straw, only of late they begin to use Tiles. They have no Windows, Chimneys, or different Apartments; and over the Fire-place they hang their Beds at night. Their Doors are Ox-Hides; and since all lie together in one Room, with their Dogs, Cats, _&c._ the Missionaries are entertain’d with very ungrateful Scents, besides Smoke, when they go to visit them. He says, in the main they are very patient under Distempers, and the Death of Relations; that they seek after no Riches but a present Maintenance; that their young Women are marriageable at 14, and the Men at 16, when the Missionaries take care to match them, otherwise they will pair themselves. There are no Disputes here about Dowries, Jointures, or Marriage-Settlements; the Agreement consists only in two Articles, _viz._ The Woman promises to fetch what Water the Husband wants from the River, and he engages to provide the Kitchin with Fewel. The Missionaries furnish them with Hutts, the Wedding-Clothes and Dinner. The Wedding-Suit is five yards of coarse woollen Stuff for each, the Dinner is a fat Cow, and the Bed some Ox-hides. He presents them also with a little Salt and a few Loaves, and then they treat their Parents. The Women court here, come to the Missionary, and tell him they have a mind to such a Man, if he will give his Consent; which if he do, the Match is made, and the Missionary is both Priest and Father.