A Cruising Voyage Around the World
Part 10
Among the Rivers that fall into it on the North side, the _Napo_, _Agaric_, _Putomaye_, _Jenupape_, _Coropatube_, and others, have Gold in their Sands. Below _Coropatube_ there are Mines of several sorts in the Mountains. In those of _Yagnare_ there are Mines of Gold; in _Picora_ there are Mines of Silver; on the River _Paragoche_ there are precious Stones of several sorts; and Mines of Sulphur, _&c._ near other Rivers. Those of _Putomaye_ and _Caketa_ are large Rivers: the latter is divided into two Branches; one falls into the _Amazons_ River, by the name of _Rio Negro_, which is the largest on the North side; and the other, call’d _Rio Grande_, falls into the _Oronoko_. The chief Rivers that fall into it on the South side, are _Maranhon_, _Amarumaye_, _Tapy_, _Catua_, _Cusignate_, _Madere_ or _Cayane_, and many other large ones.
The _Sansons_ add, that on this River, about 200 Leagues from the Sea, there is a Bosphorus or Strait of one mile broad; that the Tide comes up hither, so that it may serve as a Key to all the Trade of those Countries: But the _Portuguese_ being already possess’d of _Para_ on the side of _Brazile_, _Corupa_ and _Estero_ on the side of _Guaiana_, and _Cogemina_ an Island at the mouth of it; they may, by fortifying the Island of the _Sun_, or some other place in its chief Outlet, be Masters of all the Trade.
_William Davis_[104] a _Londoner_, who liv’d in this Country some time, gives us this further Account of it, and of the Inhabitants about this River. They have Store of excellent Wild-Fowl in their Woods, and among others, Parrots as many as we have Pidgeons in _England_, and as good Meat. Their Rivers and Lakes abound with Fish, but such as catch them must be upon their guard against Crocodiles, Alligators, and Water-Serpents. The Country is subject to frequent and violent Storms of Rain, Thunder, and Lightning, which commonly hold 16 or 18 hours; and the Inhabitants are terribly pester’d with Muskettoes. There are abundance of petty Kings, who live upon their particular Rivers, on which they decide their Quarrels with Canoes, and the Conqueror eats up the Conquer’d; so that one King’s Belly proves another’s Sepulcher. The Regalia by which they are distinguish’d, is a Crown of Parrots Feathers, a Chain of Lion’s Teeth or Claws about their Necks or Middles, and a Wooden Sword in their hands. Both Sexes go quite naked, and wear their Hair long; but the Men pluck theirs off on the Crown. He says ’tis a question whether the Womens Hair or Breasts be longest. The Men thrust pieces of Cane thro the Foreskin of their _Pudenda_, their Ears and Under-Lips, and hang Glass-Beads at the Gristle of their Noses, which bob to and fro when they speak. They are thievish, and such good Archers, that they kill Fish in the water with their Arrows. They eat what they catch without Bread or Salt. They know not the Use of Mony, but barter one thing for another, and will give twenty Shillings worth of Provisions, _&c._ for a Glass-Bead or a Jews-Harp.
I come next to the Discovery of this River. When _Gonsales Pizarro_, Brother to _Francis_ that conquer’d _Peru_, was Governour of the North Provinces of that Country, he came to a great River where he saw the Natives bring Gold in their Canoes to exchange with the _Spaniards_. This put him upon a compleat Discovery of that River from its Fountains to its Mouth. In order to this, he sent out Capt. _Francisco de Orellana_[105] in 1540. with a Pinnace and Men: Some say
[Sidenote: _Account of the River Amazons._]
he went also himself, and sail’d down the River _Xauxa_ or _Maranhon_ 43 days, but wanting Provisions, commanded _Orellana_ to go in quest of some down the River, and to return as soon as he could; but _Orellana_ being carry’d down 200 Leagues thro a desert Country, the Stream was so rapid, that he found it impracticable to return, and therefore sail’d on till he came to that which is properly call’d the River of the _Amazons_. He had spent all his Provisions, and eat the very Leather on board; so that seven of his Men died of Want. In _January_ that Year, after sailing 200 Leagues further, he came to a Town on the Bank of the River, where the People were afraid of him, but at last furnish’d him with Provisions; and here he built a large Brigantine. He set out again the _2d_ of _Febr._ and 30 Leagues further was almost cast away by the violent Stream of a River which run into that of the _Amazons_ on the right side. He sail’d above 200 Leagues further, and was invited ashore in the Province of _Aparia_, where he discours’d several of their Caciques, who forewarn’d him of his Danger by the _Amazons_. He staid here 35 days, built a new Brigantine, and repair’d the other. He sail’d again in _April_ thro a desert Country, where he liv’d upon Herbs and toasted _Indian_ Wheat. On the _12th_ of _May_ he arriv’d at the populous Country of _Machiparo_, where he was attack’d by many Canoes full of Natives arm’d with long Shields, Bows and Arrows; but fought his way thro them till he came to a Town where he took Provisions by Force, after two hours fight with some thousands of the Natives whom he put to flight, and had 18 of his Men wounded, but all recover’d. He put off again, and was pursu’d two days by 8000 _Indians_ in 130 Canoes, till he was past the Frontiers of that Country. Then he landed at another Town 340 Leagues from _Aparia_, which being abandon’d by the Natives, he rested there three days, and took in Provisions. Two Leagues from hence he came to the mouth of a great River with three Islands, for which he call’d it _Trinity River_. The adjacent Country seem’d very fruitful, but so many Canoes came out to attack him, that he was forc’d to keep the middle of the Stream. Next day he came to a little Town, where he took Provisions again by force, and found abundance of curious earthen Ware finely painted, and several Idols of monstrous shapes and sizes. He also saw some Gold and Silver, and was told by the Inhabitants that there was abundance of both in the Country. He sail’d on 100 Leagues further, till he came to the Land of _Pagnana_, where the People were civil, and readily furnish’d him with what he wanted.
On _Whitsunday_ he pass’d by a great Town divided into many Quarters, with a Canal from each to the River. Here he was attack’d by Canoes, but soon repuls’d them with his Fire-Arms. He afterwards landed, and took Provisions at several Towns. He met with the Mouth of a River, the Water as black as Ink, and the Stream so rapid, that for 20 Leagues it did not mix with that of the _Amazons_. He saw several small Towns in his Passage, enter’d one by force, which had a Wall of Timber, and took abundance of Fish there. He pursu’d his Voyage by many great Towns and well-inhabited Provinces, by which time the River was grown so wide, that they could not see the one side from the other. Here he took an _Indian_, by whose Information he suppos’d this to be the proper Country of the _Amazons_. He sail’d on by many other Towns, and landed at one, where he found none but Women. He took abundance of Fish there, and resolv’d to have staid for some time; but the Men coming home in the Evening, they attack’d him, so that he ship’d off, and continu’d his Voyage. He saw several great Towns with pav’d Roads between Rows of Fruit-Trees into the Country, and landed for Provisions. The Inhabitants oppos’d him; but their Leader being kill’d, they fled and left him at liberty to carry off Provisions. From hence he sail’d to an Island for Rest, and was inform’d by a Female he had taken Prisoner, that there were Men like themselves in that Country, and some white Women, whom he conceiv’d to be _Spaniards_: she told him they were entertain’d by a Cacique. After several days sail, he came to another great Town, near which the _Indian_ told him those Whites did live. He kept on his Course, and after four days came to another Town, where the Natives were civil, furnish’d him with Provisions; and here he saw abundance of Cotton Cloth, and a Place of Worship hung with Weapons and two Mitres resembling those of a Bishop. He went to a Wood on the other side in order to rest, but was soon dislodg’d by the Natives. He saw several large Towns on both sides the River, but did not touch at them. Some days after they came to a Town where he got Provisions. After doubling a Point, he saw other large Towns, where the People stood ready on the Banks to oppose him. He offer’d ’em Toys in order to please them, but in vain. He continu’d his Voyage, and on the Banks saw several Bodies of People. He stood into
[Sidenote: _Account of the River Amazons._]
them, and landing his Men, the Natives fought with great Resolution, ten or twelve being white Women of an extraordinary Size, with long Hair and all naked but their _Pudenda_, who seem’d to be their Commanders. They were arm’d with Bows and Arrows; and seven of ’em being kill’d, the rest fled. _Orellana_ had several Men wounded; and finding that multitudes of the Natives were marching against him, he sail’d off, reckoning that he had now made 1400 Leagues during his Voyage, but still did not know how far he was from the Sea. He afterwards came to another Town, where he met with the like Opposition: several of his Men were wounded, and his Chaplain lost an Eye. Here he observ’d several Woods of Oak and Cork-Trees: He call’d this Province by the name of _St. John’s_, because he came to it on that Saint’s Day. He sail’d on till he met with some Islands, where he was attack’d by 200 Canoes with 30 or 40 Men in each, abundance of Drums, Trumpets, and Pipes, _&c._ but he kept them off with his Fire-Arms. These Islands appear’d to be high, fruitful, and pleasant, and the largest of ’em about 50 Leagues long; but he could take in no Provisions, because the Canoes continually pursu’d him.
When he came to the next Province, he perceiv’d many large Towns on the Larboard side of the River: Multitudes of Natives came in their Canoes to gaze on him, and his _Indian_ Prisoner inform’d him that these Countries abounded with Gold and Silver. _Orellana_ was here oblig’d to barricade his Boats to cover his Men, because one of ’em was kill’d by a poison’d Arrow. As he sail’d on, he came to inhabited Islands, and perfectly discern’d the Tide. Here he was attack’d by multitudes of Canoes, and lost some more Men by poison’d Arrows. There were many Towns on the Starboard side of the River, and he found other inhabited Islands, where he got Provisions, but was attack’d and beat off when he landed on the Continent, till he came near the mouth of the River, where the People readily furnish’d him. He sail’d 200 Leagues among the Islands, where he found the Tide strong, and at last in _August_ that Year found a Passage to the Sea of about 50 Ls. wide, where the Tide rises five or six fathom, and the fresh Water runs 20 Leagues into the Sea; Esquire _Harcourt_,[106] in his Voyage to _Guiana_, says 30 Ls. and that the fresh Water there is very good. He was mightily distress’d for want of Rigging and Provisions till he came to the Island of _Cubagua_, from whence he went to _Spain_ to give the King an Account of his Discovery. The Manuscripts taken by Capt. _Withrington_[107] say that _Orellana_ was about a Year and half upon this River.
When he reported his Discoveries, the King of _Spain_ sent him back with a Fleet and 600 Men to take possession of this River in 1544, some say 1549, but the Project came to nothing: for the Captain himself, after he had sail’d up 100 Ls. died with 57 of his Men by the Unhealthiness of the Air; and some of them sail’d 60 Ls. higher, where they were friendly entertain’d by the Natives, but being too few to pursue the Discovery, they return’d to the Island _Margarita_, where they found _Orellana’s_ Lady, says _Heerera_, who told them that her Husband died of Grief for the Loss of so many of his Men by Sickness and the Attacks of the _Indians_. And thus they return’d _re infecta_: so that _Orellana_ receiv’d no other Advantage for his Danger and Expence, but the Honour of the first Discovery, and having the River call’d by his name in some Authors. _Ovalle_ says that he lost half his Men at the _Canaries_ and Cape _Verd_, and his Fleet was reduc’d to two large Boats before he came back to the River; so that he was too weak to attempt a further Discovery.
The Manuscripts taken by Capt. _Withrington_ say the second Person who attempted it was _Leus de Melo_ a _Portuguese_, by order of his Sovereign King _John_ III. to whom the Country from the mouth of this River to that of _La Plata_ belong’d, according to the Partition agreed on betwixt the _Portuguese_ and the _Spaniards_. He had ten Ships and 800 Men, but lost eight of his Ships at the mouth of the River; so that he went to the Island _Margarita_, from whence his Men were dispers’d all over the _Indies_. Two or three Captains from the Kingdom of _New Granada_ attempted it afterwards by Land, but without Success.
In 1560. those of _Peru_ try’d it another way. The Viceroy sent _Pesdro de Orsua_, a Native of _Navarre_, with 700 Men to the Head of this River, where he built Pinnaces and Canoes; and having furnish’d himself with Provisions, and taken 2000 _Indians_ with many Horses on board, he imbark’d on the
[Sidenote: _Account of the River Amazons._]
River _Xauxa_ or _Maranhon_. He sail’d till he came to a plain Country, where he began to build a Town: but his Men not being us’d to such Labour, and fatigu’d by the hot and rainy Seasons, they murmur’d, tho they had Provisions enough, and a great prospect of finding Store of Gold. The Mutineers were headed by _Lopez de Agira_ a _Biscayner_, who had been an old Mutineer in _Peru_; and being join’d by _Ferdinand de Guzman_ a _Spanish_ Soldier, and one _Saldueno_ who was enamour’d on _Orsua’s_ beautiful Lady, they murder’d him when asleep, with all his Friends and chief Officers. Then they proclaim’d _Guzman_ their King, but 20 days after he was also murder’d by _Lopez_, who assum’d the Title to himself. Being a Fellow of mean Birth, he murder’d all the Gentlemen in company, lest any of them should rival him; and having form’d a Guard of Ruffians about him, he became so jealous of his new Dignity, and was so conscious of what he deserv’d, that when any of the Men talk’d together, he concluded they were plotting against him, and sent his Ruffians to murder them. Abundance of the rest and the Women falling sick, he barbarously left them to the mercy of the Natives, and sail’d to the Island _Margarita_ with 230 Men. He was “well entertain’d by the Governour, who took him to be one of the King’s Officers; but this ungrateful Villain did speedily murder him and his Friends, ravag’d the Island, forc’d some Soldiers to go along with him, and pretended to conquer the _Indies_; but was defeated, taken and hang’d by the Governour of _New Granada_. The Wretch murder’d his own Daughter that she might not be insulted by his Enemies, and then attempted to murder himself, but was prevented. Thus concluded that fatal Expedition.
The _Sansons_ say the next Attempt was by those of _Cusco_ in 1566. but it came to nothing; for their Leaders fell out and fought with one another, which made the rest a Prey to the Natives: or that only _Maldonado_ one of their Captains and two Priests escap’d to carry home the News.
Two of the Generals of _Para_ and Governours of _Maranhon_ were the next that renew’d the Attempt by the King’s Command, but met with so many cross Accidents that they could not effect it.
In 1606. two Jesuits set out from _Quito_, thinking to reduce the Country on this River by their Preaching: but one of them was kill’d by the Natives, and the other narrowly escap’d, says _Ovalle_.
The next Discovery was by Capt. _John de Palacios_. Authors differ as to the time; but most agree ’twas in 1635. He set out from _Quito_ with a few arm’d Men and _Franciscan_ Fryars, sail’d down the River till he came to _Annete_, where he was kill’d in 1636. and most of his Companions return’d, except two Monks and five or six Soldiers, who sail’d down in a little Vessel as far as _Para_ the Capital of _Brazile_; where they acquainted _Texeira_ the _Portuguese_ Governour with their Discovery: who upon their Information sent 47 Canoes with 70 _Spaniards_ and 1200 _Indians_ to sail up the River under _Texeira_ the Sailor. He set out in _October_ 1637. and met with several Difficulties, which occasion’d many of the _Indians_ to forsake him; but he went on, and sent a Captain with eight Canoes to make Discoveries before him. This Captain arriv’d _June_ 24. 1638. at a _Spanish_ Town built at the Conflux of the Rivers _Huerari_ and _Amazons_, and dispatch’d a Canoe to acquaint _Texeira_ with it. This encourag’d him to proceed till he came to the Mouth of the River _Chevelus_, where it falls into the _Amazons_, and there he left part of his Men under a Captain, and the rest at _Junta de los Rios_ under another; while himself with a few went forward to _Quito_. The other Captain arriv’d there some time before, and both were well receiv’d by the _Spaniards_, to whom they reported their Discovery in _September_ 1638. The Men he left behind were well entertain’d by the Natives at first, but quarrelling with them afterwards, suffer’d much for want of Provisions, and had little but what they took by force.
Upon the News of this Discovery, the Count _de Chinchon_ Viceroy of _Peru_ sent Orders from _Lima_ to furnish _Texeira_ with all Necessaries for his Return down the River, and appointed Father _d’Acugna_, Rector of the College of _Cuenca_, and another Jesuit, to attend him and carry the News to _Spain_. They set out in _February_ 1639. and arriv’d at _Para_ in _December_ following; from whence _d’Acugna_ went to _Spain_, and publish’d his Account of this River in 1640.
[Sidenote: _Account of the River Amazons._]
The Sum of his Discovery, besides what has been mention’d already, is as follows. There’s a Tree on the Banks of this River call’d _Andirova_, from whence they draw an Oil that is a Specifick for curing Wounds. There’s plenty of Iron-Wood, so nam’d because of its Hardness, Red-Wood, Log-Wood, _Brazile_, and Cedars so large, that _Acugna_ says he measur’d some that were 30 span round the Trunk. They have Timber enough to build Ships, make Cordage of the Barks of Trees, and Sails of Cotton, but want Iron. They make Hatchets of Tortoise-shells, or hard Stones ground to an Edg; and Chizzels, Planes, and Wimbles of the Teeth and Horns of wild Beasts. Their chief Directors are Sorcerers, who are the Managers of their hellish Worship, and teach them how to revenge themselves on their Enemies by Poison and other barbarous methods. Some of them keep the Bones of their deceas’d Relations in their Houses; and others burn them with all their Movables, and solemnize their Funerals first by mourning, and then by excessive drinking. Yet the Father says they are in general good-natur’d and courteous, and many times left their own Hutts to accommodate him and his Company. Some of these Nations, particularly the _Omaguas_, whose Country is 260 Leagues long, and the most populous on the River, are decently clad in Rayment of Cotton, and trade in it with their Neighbours. Some of the other Nations wear Plates of Gold at their Ears and Nostrils; and their Joiners are so expert, that they make Chairs and other Houshold Furniture in the shapes of several Animals with great Art.
The Jesuits of _Quito_ in _Peru_ have engrav’d a Map of this River, in which they give the following Account, _viz._ That ’tis the greatest in the known World: That tho it be call’d by the name of _Amazons_ or _Orellana_, its true name is _Maranhon_: That it rises from the Lake _Lauricocha_, as we have mention’d already, runs 1800 Leagues, and falls into the North Sea by 84 Mouths: That near the City _Borja_ it is pent up by a Strait call’d _El-Pongo_, not above 13 Fathom wide and 3 Ls. long; where the Stream is so rapid, that Boats run it in a quarter of an hour. The Truth of this must be submitted to the Judgment of the Reader, but it seems very improbable, since none of those who sail’d up and down this River describe it thus: besides, ’twere impossible to sail up against so rapid a Stream without a Tide, which the _Sansons_ say comes up to this Strait; but they make it a mile broad, and by consequence not so rapid. The Jesuits add, that both Banks from the City _Jaen_ in the Province of _Bracamoros_, where it begins to be navigable, down to the Sea, are cover’d with Woods of very tall Trees, among which there’s Timber of all colours, abundance of _Sarsaparilla_, and the Bark they call Cloves, which is us’d by Dyers and Cooks. In the neighbouring Woods there are many Tygers, wild Boars, and Buffaloes, _&c._ The Jesuits began their Mission upon this River in 1638. have their Capital at the City of _St. Francis_ of _Borja_ in the Province of _Manos_, 300 Leagues from _Quito_; and their Mission extends along three other Rivers as far as the Province of the _Omaguas_, whither they make sometimes long and dangerous Voyages in Canoes. They give an account of eight of their number that have been murder’d by the _Barbarians_, the last of them in 1707. Besides _Borja_ and its Dependencies, they have 39 Towns founded mostly by their own Labour and Charge, but we shan’t insist on their Names. Their Converts they reckon at 26000, and the Missionaries about 18. They add, that they have contracted Amity with several numerous Nations, whose Conversion they hope for.
The _Portuguese_ have some Towns at the Mouth of this River, and a Fort on _Rio Negro_; so that of late years they have traded much upon it, and, as several _Spaniards_ inform’d me, during the last Peace they extended their Commerce as far as _Quito_ and many other Places in _Peru_. I have insisted the longer on this River, because it is of so great Fame, and may be of mighty Advantage for Trade.
* * * * *
The River of _La Plata_ being the South Boundary of _Brazile_, within the Limits of the _South-Sea_ Company, and lying conveniently for opening a great Trade from the North-Sea with _Peru_, _Chili_, and other vast Countries; I shall give a Description of it here, from the best Authors.
The first _European_ who discover’d it, seems to have been _Juan Dias de Solis_, who sailing from _Spain_ in 1512. some say 1515. run along the Coast of _Brazile_ till he came to this River, says _Ovalle_. With him agree the Manuscripts taken on some _Spanish_ Priests in this River by Capt. _Withrington_, publish’d in _Harris’s_ Collections[108]; where we are told, _De Solis_ obtain’d the Government of this River, but was murder’d by the Natives with most of his Men in 1515. The next who came hither was _Sebastian Cabot_ in 1526. but his Men being mutinous, he had not the desir’d Success, tho he sail’d 150, some say 200 Leagues up this River; and purchasing many Pieces of Gold and Silver Plate from the Natives, who call’d this River _Parama_, he call’d it the River of Plate, because he thought it to be the Product of the Country, which was afterwards found to be a Mistake. Yet upon his Report, in 1530. when he return’d, the Emperor _Charles_ V. sent Don _Peter Mendoza_, one of his chief Grandees, with 2200 Men besides Mariners, to plant a Colony here in
[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]