CHAPTER IV.

Religious, Educational, and Benevolent 722–735 APPENDIX. City Authorities and Officials, &c. 736–738

[Picture: Decorative mark]

INDEX TO CONTENTS.

PAGE Aborigines of the District 146 Act obtained for Paving and 291, 324 Lighting Agricultural Implement Makers 611 Agricultural Society’s (Royal) 416 Visit Agriculture, Chamber of 441 Alexander Rev. John 490 Alfred Prince, in Norwich 443 Alfred the Great, Reign of 159 Allen Thomas, M.A. 248 Anchorages or Hermitages 139 Ancient City, The 117 Anderson William, Notice of 307 Andrew’s, St. Hall—see St. Andrew’s Hall Angles, Arrival of 11 Anglo-Saxon Coins 160, 161 Anglo-Saxon Dynasty, Restoration 12 of Anglo-Saxon Period, Norwich in 158 the Archæological Society, (British) 433 Visit of Artists of Norwich 541 Art, School of (in Free Library) 61 Assize Courts, City and County 50 Assizes removed to Norwich 381 Asylum, New Lunatic, contemplated 441 Austin Friars 138

Bank, the Crown 76 Banks and Banking 595 Baptist Chapels 110, 111, 112 Baptists in Norwich, History of 253 the Barbauld, Anna Letitia 307 Barlow, Peter 307 Barracks, Cavalry 76 Bathurst Bishop 36, 300, 328 Bathurst Bishop, Memoir of 520 Bathurst Bishop, Professor 329 Taylor’s account of Beechey, Sir William 307 Benedictine Priory 136 Bethel Built 270 Bible Society, Norwich Auxiliary 335 Established Bignold, Sir Samuel 378, 381, 432 Bigod, Hugh 169, 170, 172 Bigod, Roger 163, 166, 168, 169, 172, 173, 174, 175 Bigod, William 169 Bilney, the Martyr 51, 191 Bishop Bathurst, monument of 36, 521 ,, ,, mentioned in _Monthly 300 Magazine_ ,, ,, elected 328 ,, ,, Professor Taylor’s account 329 of ,, ,, Memoir of 520 ,, Goldwell, tomb of 36 ,, Hall, driven out 222, 227 ,, ,, Memoir of 226 ,, Hall’s palace 100 ,, Herbert de Losinga (first 13 bishop) ,, ,, Norman statue of 39 ,, Hinds, memoir of 524 ,, Horne, monument of 36 ,, Nykke, tomb of 34 ,, Parkhurst, tomb of 35 ,, Pelham, notice of 714 ,, Stanley, memoir of 524 ,, Wren and the “Book of Sports” 244 Bishop’s Palace, History and 43 description of Bishops of Norwich, list of 708 Black Friars 138 Blomefield, the Norfolk Historian 127, 306 Blind, Hospital for the 327, 733 Blythe, Hancock 307 Board of Health 14, 429 Boleyn, Sir William, tomb of 37 Bombazines, manufacture of 204 introduced Book of Sports 78, 244 Boot and Shoe Trade, Wholesale 601 Bourn, Samuel 297 Bracondale Lodge (Miss Martineau) 106 Brand, John, B.A. 307 Brasses, Monumental 140, 563 Bread Riots 286, 292, 340 Brethren of the Sac Friars 139 Brewers’ Mark, &c., Mr. R. Fitch 264 on Brewers, Wholesale 616 Bridge, Carrow, first stone laid 333 ,, Duke’s Palace, erected 347 ,, Foundry, first stone laid 334 Bridge W., M.A. 245 British Archæological Society, 433 Visit of ,, Association for the 444 Advancement of Science, Visit of Brooke, Sir James, educated at 45, 726 Grammar School Brown, Rev. Robert 243 Browne, Sir Thomas, memoir of 230 Brush and Paper Bag Makers 620 Burial Ground—the Rosary 108 Bury and Schneider unseated 656 Buxton, Thomas Fowell 104

Caer Gwent or Guntum, Norwich 10, 157 called so by the Iceni Caister, a village on the bank of 10, 11 the Taas Caister and Norwich, Traditional 10 Couplet Caister Camp 105, 157 Canons Honorary 718 Canute assigned custody of 152 Norwich Castle to Earl Turkel Cardinal Wolsey visited Norwich 189 Carmelite Friars 137 Caroline, Queen, Address to 350 Carriage Manufacturers 620 Carrow Abbey 84, 139 Carrow Bridge, first stone laid 333 Carrow Works (Messrs. J. and J. 84, 605 Colman’s) Carrying Trade 625 Carter, Rev. John, memoir of 239 Castle built 11, 163 ,, burnt by Danes 12 ,, description and history of 20 ,, fortifications of 21, 22 ,, ,, Mr. Woodward’s opinions 23, 119 ,, ,, Kirkpatrick’s opinions 23 ,, ,, Mr. Harrod’s opinions 24 ,, made the public prison 178 ,, Corporation, the 339 ,, Hill, View from 47 Cathedral, additions and repairs 29, 30, 31, 276 by Eborard, John de Oxford, Walter de Suffield, Ralph de Walpole, &c. ,, Brasses destroyed during 37 Commonwealth ,, Chartists attended at 406 ,, Cloisters, description of 41 ,, Close, Upper and Lower 44 ,, Dignitaries of the 717 ,, Dimensions of 32 ,, Edward I. and Eleanor at 29 ,, Exterior, description of 39 ,, Gateways 46 ,, Injuries by fires, wind, and 29, 30, 189, 212, 323 lightning ,, Injuries by Reformers 31, 219 ,, Interior description of 33 ,, Monument of Bishop Bathurst 36 ,, ,, Bishop Home 36 Cathedral, Monument of Sir 37 William Boleyn ,, Original Structure 28 ,, Prideaux, Dr., Inscription in 34 Memory of ,, Queen Elizabeth dined in 43, 205 Cloisters ,, Tomb of Bishop Goldwell 36 ,, ,, ,, Herbert de Losinga 37 ,, ,, ,, Nykke 35 ,, ,, ,, Parkhurst 35 ,, ,, Miles Spencer 34 ,, Yarmouth people ask for stones 31 for a workhouse Catherine, Queen, visited Norwich 189 Catholic Apostolic Chapel 115 Cattle and Corn Trade 623 Cattle Food and Manure Trades 622 Cattle Market, cost of 49 improvements, &c. Cavalry Barracks 76 Cemetery, Public (opened 1856) 101, 432 ,, The Rosary 108 Census of 1861 435 Chamber of Agriculture 441 Chantrey’s, Sir Francis last work 37, 521 Chapel Field 98, 133 Chapels, Nonconformists’ 720 ,, ,, Ber Street (Wesleyans) 112 ,, ,, Calvert Street (Methodist 112 Free Church) ,, ,, Catherine’s Plain 113 (Primitive Methodists) ,, ,, Chapel-in-the-Field 110 (Independents) ,, ,, Cherry Lane (Baptists) 112 ,, ,, Clement Court (Catholic 115 Apostolic—Irvingites) ,, ,, Crook’s Place (Methodist 112 Free Church) ,, ,, Cowgate Street (Primitive 113 Methodist) ,, ,, Dereham Road (Primitive 113 Methodist) ,, ,, Dutch Church (Free 114 Christian Church) ,, ,, Ebenezer (Baptists) 111 ,, ,, French Church 114 (Swedenborgians) ,, ,, Gildencroft (Baptists) 111 ,, ,, Jireh—Dereham Road 112 (Baptists) ,, ,, Lady Lane (Wesleyans) 112 ,, ,, Octagon (Unitarians) 113 ,, ,, Old Meeting (Independents) 109 ,, ,, Orford Hill (Baptists) 111 ,, ,, Pottergate Street 112 (Baptists) ,, ,, Princes Street 109 (Independents) ,, ,, Priory Yard (Baptists) 112 ,, ,, Queen Street 114 (Swedenborgians) ,, ,, St. Clement’s (Baptists) 111 ,, ,, St. Faith’s Lane (Jews) 115 ,, ,, St. John’s Maddermarket 113 (Roman Cath.) ,, ,, St. Mary’s (Baptists) 110 ,, ,, St. Peter’s Hall 112 (Presbyterians) ,, ,, Tabernacle (Lady 110 Huntingdon’s) ,, ,, Upper Goat Lane (Friends) 113 ,, ,, Willow Lane (Roman 113 Catholics) Chapels, Desecrated 133 Charing (Sherers’) Cross removed 275 Charitable Institutions 732 ,, ,, Bethel 270 ,, ,, Blind Hospital 327, 733 ,, ,, Doughty’s Hospital 733 ,, ,, Great Hospital (called also 79, 197, 279, 733 Old Men’s, St. Giles’, or St. Helen’s) ,, ,, Jenny Lind Infirmary 430, 733 ,, ,, Lying-in Charity 377 ,, ,, Norfolk and Norwich 280, 733 Hospital ,, ,, Norwich Magdalen 733 ,, ,, Orphans’ Home 733 ,, ,, Public Dispensary 325, 733 Charles II. and Queen visited 223, 225 Norwich Chartist Movements 406, 408, 653 Christ Church, New Catton 92, 405 Church Congress in Norwich 442 Church of England Young Men’s 732 Society Churches, All Saints 96 ,, Christ Church (New Catton) 92, 405 ,, desecrated 127–133 ,, despoiled by Reformers 219 ,, Holy Trinity (Heigham) 102 ,, list of 719 ,, number of, in olden times 62 ,, St. Andrew 70 ,, St. Andrew (Eaton) 104 ,, St. Augustine 87 ,, St. Bartholomew (Heigham) 102 ,, St. Benedict 75 ,, St. Clement 91 ,, St. Edmund 93 ,, St. Etheldred 82 ,, St. George Colegate 87 ,, St. George Tombland 77 ,, St. Giles 67 ,, St. Gregory 68 ,, St. Helen 80 ,, St. James 9 ,, St. John Maddermarket 69 ,, St. John Timberhill 97 ,, St. John Sepulchre 95 ,, St. Julian 81 ,, St. Lawrence 73 ,, St. Margaret 75 ,, St. Martin at Oak 86 ,, St. Martin at Palace 79 ,, St. Mark (Lakenham) 105 ,, St. Mary at Coslany 88 ,, St. Matthew (Thorpe) 106 ,, St. Michael Coslany 85 ,, St. Michael at Plea 77 ,, St. Michael at Thorn 96 ,, St. Paul 93 ,, St. Peter Hungate 78 ,, St. Peter of Mancroft 65 ,, St. Peter per Mountergate 81 ,, St. Peter Southgate 82 ,, St. Philip (Heigham) 102 ,, St. Saviour 92 ,, St. Simon and Jude 79 ,, St. Stephen 94 ,, St. Swithin 73 ,, Trinity, Holy (Heigham) 102 Cigar and Tobacco Trade 617 City and County of Norwich 170 City Jail 99, 355 City Library 61 City Officials, list of 736 City separated from County of 170 Norfolk Civic Feasts 52, 197, 204, 378, 402, 403 _et passim_ Civil Wars, the 216 Clabburn Thomas, monument of 87 Clarke, Dr. Adam, in Norwich 257 Clarke, Dr. Samuel, memoir of 236 Clergy, ignorance of, in 242 fifteenth century Clergy of City and Hamlets, list 719 of Close, Cathedral, Upper and Lower 44 Clothiers, Wholesale 601 Clover Joseph, artist 546 Coaches, Mail, to London 282 Coal Trade 622 Coins, Anglo-Saxon 160, 161 Coins of Iceni 149 Collinges Dr. 296 Commercial History 552 Commercial School 726 Compounding for Poor-rates 440 abolished Cooper Henry 308 Corn Exchange (old) opened 372 ,, description of 58 Corn Exchange, portraits in (Earl 59 Leicester & Jno. Culley, Esq.) Corn, high price of 286, 293 Corn Trade 623 Corporation, Municipal 170 ,, ,, First Mayor of New 402 ,, ,, History of the 316 ,, ,, Last Mayor of Old 401 ,, ,, Members of, for 1869 736 ,, ,, Present state of the 395 ,, ,, Presents to the, by Lord 279 Howard, 223; Sir Robt. Walpole, 275; Sir Armine Wodehouse Corporation, Old, _Commission of 381 Inquiry_ ,, Evidence of Athow, John 395 ,, ,, Bacon, R. M. 395 ,, ,, Barnard, A. 391 ,, ,, Bignold, S. (mayor) 383 ,, ,, Bolingbroke, Alderman 383, 391 ,, ,, Francis, John 391, 394 ,, ,, Gurney, J. J. 383, 388, 392 ,, ,, Newton, Alderman 386 ,, ,, Palmer, George 392 ,, ,, Robberds, J. W. 395 ,, ,, Simpson, W. 383 ,, ,, Stan, John Rising 390 ,, ,, Wilde, William 389 ,, ,, Willett, H. 393 ,, ,, Wright Mr. 394 Cosin, Dr. John, memoir of 238 Costume of various periods 553 Cotman, J. S., artist 550 Council Chamber 50 County Jail (the Castle) 27 Crape Manufacture 581, 592, 593 Crome, John, artist (“Old Crome”) 89, 542 Memorial of Crome, Miss, artist 546 Crome, J. B., artist 545 Cromwell and the Commonwealth 222 Cromwell, John 249 Crosse, John Greene, memoir of 530 Crotch, Dr. William 538 Crown Bank (Harveys and Hudson) 76 Crucifixion of a boy by Jews, 174 alleged

Dalrymple, William, memoir of 526 Danes, Incursions of 12 Danes settled in Norwich 162 Dean and Chapter 718 Dean and Chapter’s Library 44 Deans of Norwich, list of 715 Deave, Reuben 308 Denmark, Queen of, visit to 443 Norwich De Dominâ Friars 138 De Pica or Pied Friars 138 De Sacco Friars 139 Desecrated Chapels 133 Desecrated Churches 127–133 Dignitaries of the Diocese 717 Diocese, Dignitaries of 717 Disfranchisement of Freemen 374, 402 Dispensary, Public 325, 733 Dissolution of the Monasteries 194 Dixon, W. R., artist 547 Domesday Book 12, 13, 165, 260 Dominican Friars 138 Doughty’s Hospital 733 Drainage, the New Scheme for 446 Drapers, Wholesale 616 Dress at different periods 553 Drill Hall 98 Duchess of Norfolk (died 1593), 70 monument of Duke of Sussex visited Norwich 345 Duke of Wellington, Statue of 63 Duke’s Palace Bridge erected 347 Dungeon Tower 76 Dutch and Flemings, arrival of 166, 557 Dutch Church (Free Christian 114 Church)

Earlham Hall 103 Earlham, Hamlet of 103 Earthquakes felt in Norwich 278 Eaton, Hamlet of 104 Ecclesiastical History 706 Edinburgh, Duke of, in Norwich 443 Education in Norwich 726 Edward I. and Eleanor at 29 Cathedral Edward III. and Philippa visit 178 Norwich Edward VI. Commercial School 726 ,, Grammar School 45, 726 Eighteenth Century, Norwich in 268 the Eldon Club 641 Election, First under the Reform 662 Act of 1867 Election of Stormont and Scarlett (see Stormont and Scarlett) Elections since Reform Act of 650 1832 Elizabeth Fry 104, 503, 505 Elizabeth, Queen, visits of, to 43, 51, 205 Norwich Elizabeth Woodville, Queen of 185 Edward IV., visits Norwich Eminent Citizens, Notices of— ,, ,, Alexander, Rev. John 490 ,, ,, Anderson, William 307 ,, ,, Barbauld, Anna Letitia 307 ,, ,, Barlow, Peter 307 ,, ,, Bathurst, Bishop 520 ,, ,, Beechey, Sir William 307 ,, ,, Blomefield, Rev. F. 306 ,, ,, Blythe, Hancock 307 ,, ,, Brand, John, B.A. 307 ,, ,, Browne, Sir Thomas 230 ,, ,, Carter, Rev. John 239 ,, ,, Clarke, Dr. Samuel 236 ,, ,, Cooper, Henry 308 ,, ,, Cosin, Dr. John 238 ,, ,, Crosse, John Greene 530 ,, ,, Crotch, Dr. William 538 ,, ,, Dalrymple, William 526 ,, ,, Deave, Reuben 308 ,, ,, Enfield, Dr. 298, 309 ,, ,, Fenn, Sir John 309 ,, ,, Fry, Elizabeth 503, 505 ,, ,, Goslin, John 239 ,, ,, Gurney, John 499 ,, ,, Gurney, Joseph John 503 ,, ,, Hall, Bishop 226 ,, ,, Hall, Thomas 309 ,, ,, Hinds, Bishop 524 ,, ,, Hobart, John 310 ,, ,, Hooke, James 310 ,, ,, Hooker, Dr. 536 ,, ,, Kaye, John 210 ,, ,, Kinnebrook, David 310 ,, ,, Kirkpatrick, John 303 ,, ,, Legge, Dr. 209 ,, ,, Lens, John 310 ,, ,, Lubbock, Dr. 311 ,, ,, Mountain, Right Rev. J. 311 ,, ,, Opie, Mrs. 537 ,, ,, Parker, Archbishop 211 ,, ,, Parr, Dr. Samuel 311 ,, ,, Pearson, Dr. John 238 ,, ,, Rigby, Dr. 311 ,, ,, Robert, Viscount of 237 Yarmouth ,, ,, Saint, William 312 ,, ,, Sanby, George, D.D. 312 ,, ,, Say, William 312 ,, ,, Sayers, Frank, M.D. 312 ,, ,, Smith, Sir J. E., M.D. 312 ,, ,, Stanley, Bishop 522 ,, ,, Stevenson, William 313 ,, ,, Taylor, John, D.D. 313 ,, ,, Taylor, Professor Edward 475 ,, ,, Taylor, William 313 ,, ,, Thurlow, Edward, Baron 313 ,, ,, Wilkins, William 314 ,, ,, Wilkins, William, sen. 314 ,, ,, Wilks, Rev. Mark 482 ,, ,, Windham, William 314 ,, ,, Wrench, Sir Benjamin 314 Enfield, Dr. 298, 309 Erpingham Gate 46 Erpingham, Sir Thomas 46, 51 Ethelbert Gate 46 Exhibitions, Great, (1851 & 1862) 430, 436 Norwich Contributors to Exhibition, Norwich Industrial 443 Extent of Modern City 15

Fastolf Sir John, House of 46 Fenn, Sir John 309 Fifteenth Century, Norwich in the 183 Fires, serious injuries by 188, 277, 323 Fish Market 64 Fitch, R., Esq., on the Old Walls 121 and Gates Flag of France taken by Nelson 58 Flemings, Arrival or 166, 171, 204, 557, 560, 567 Flemish Refugees banished 244 Flint Implements of Iceni 148 Flint Structure, curious specimen 72 of Floods, violent, in Norwich 269, 279, 280 Flour Mills 621 Fortifications of the Old City 122 Foundry Bridge, first stone laid 334 Fourteenth Century, Norwich in 177 the Fourteenth to eighteenth 258 Centuries, social state Franciscan Friars 137 Fransham John 309 Free Christian Church 114 Free Library 61 Freemasons, Dean Prideaux, first 272 master here Freemen, disfranchisement of 374, 402 French Church (Swedenborgian) 114 French Revolution commemorated 284 Friaries 136 Friars, Carmelites or White 137 Friars de Dominâ 138 Friars de Pica or Pied Friars 138 Friars de Sacco 139 Friars Franciscan or Grey 137 Friars of St. Mary 138 Friars, Preachers (Black Friars) 138 Friends’ Meeting House 113 Fry, Elizabeth 104, 503, 505 Fynch, Martin 249

Gates and Walls, old 121 Gateways of Cathedral 46 Gedge, Mr. G., promoted National 410, 412, 414 Rate Goslin John, Memoir of 239 Grammar School 45, 726 ,, Brooke, Sir James, educated at 45, 726 ,, Lord Nelson 45, 726 ,, Valpy Dr., once head master 45, 726 Grantham Thomas 253 Great Exhibitions (1851 and 430, 436 1862), Norwich Contributions to Great Hospital (see Charitable Institutions) Grey Friars 137 Grocers, wholesale 617 Guardians, Corporation of 375, 438 Guild Feasts 52 Guild Hall, description of 50 ,, memorials of Nelson in 51 ,, Bilney the martyr confined 51 there Guilds and Pageants 180, 208, 239, 274, 282, 403 Guild, the Tanners’ 74 Gurney Family 103, 498 ,, Hudson, on Venta Icenorum 153 ,, John 502 ,, Joseph John 368, 509 ,, ,, buried in Gildencroft 111, 518

Hall, Bishop, memoir of 226 Hall’s Bishop, Palace 100 Hall, Guild (see Guildhall) Hall, St. Andrew’s (see St. Andrew’s Hall) Hall, Thomas 309 Hallett, Rev. J., on History of 251 Old Meeting House Hamlets—Earlham 103 ,, Eaton 104 ,, Heigham 98 ,, Hellesdon 103 ,, Lakenham 104 ,, Pockthorpe 108 ,, Thorpe 106 ,, Trowse, Carrow, and Bracondale 106 Harrod on Fortifications of 24 Castle Hart, Rev. R., on Old Costumes 564 Harvey, Charles 353 Harvey, John 354 Harvey, Robert 339 Harvey, Sir R. J. H., Bart., 107, 597 Heigham, Hamlet of 98 Hellesdon, Hamlet of 103 Henry I. visited Norwich 169 Henry VI. visited Norwich 184 Henry VII. visited Norwich 186 Herbert de Losinga (first bishop) 13 ,, tomb of 37 Hermitages or Anchorages 139 Hinds, Bishop, memoir of 524 Hobart, John 310 Hodgson, Charles, artist 547 Hodgson, David, artist 548 Holy Trinity, Church of the 102 Hooke, James 310 Hooker, Dr., notice of 536 Horticultural Implement Makers 611 Hospitals (see Charitable Institutions) Huntingdon’s, Lady, Connexion 110

Iceni, the 11, 147 ,, Coins of 149 ,, Flint Implements of 148 ,, Woodward on 117 ,, Sepulchral Urns 148 Independent Chapels 109, 110 Independents, History of the 247 Indigent Blind Hospital 327, 733 Indulgences to those buried in 137 “Pardon Cloister” Industrial Exhibition 443 Innes, Rev. J. B. 251 Iron Trade 609 Irvingites’ Chapel 115

Jail, the City 99, 355 Jail, the County 27 Jenny Lind Infirmary 430, 733 Jermy, Isaac, Recorder, Murder of 416 Jews accused of crucifying a boy 174 Jews, first settled in Norwich 165 Jews, large influx of 169 ‘Jews’ Synagogue 115 John’s (King) visit to Norwich 173 John of Gaunt visited Norwich 179

Kaye, John, memoir of 210 Kett’s Castle 136 Kett’s Rebellion 198 King (see Royal Visits) King Edward VI. Commercial School 726 King Edward VI. Grammar School 45, 726 Kinghorn, Rev. J., Tributary 256 Lines by Mrs. Opie Kinnebrook, David 310 Kirkpatrick, John, memoir of 303 Kirkpatrick—buried in St. Helen’s 80, 305 Church ,, on fortifications of Castle 23

Ladbrooke, Robert 548 Lady Huntingdon Chapels 110 Lakenham, Hamlet of 104 Law of Settlement and Removal 414 Legge, Dr., memoir of 209 Lens, John, M.A. 310 Library, City (at Free Library) 61 ,, Dean and Chapter’s 44 ,, Free Library 61 ,, Literary Institution 60 ,, Norwich Public 59, 298 Literary Institution, Norfolk and 60 Norwich Lollards’ Pit (see also Martyrs) 136, 184, 193, 203 Lord Abinger 401 Lord Nelson 45, 51, 56, 288, 289, 330 Lubbock, Richard, M.D. 311 Lunatic Asylum, new one 441 contemplated Lying-in-Charity, Established 377

Magdalen, or Female Home 733 Mail Coaches, first started to 282 London Maltby, Dr. Edward 297 Manufacture of Bombazines 204 introduced Manufacture of Worsted introduced 166 Manufacturers of the last century 302 Manufactures mentioned in “Paston 178 Letters” Manufactures, Norwich, at Great 430, 436 Exhibitions Manufactures, Norwich, presented 437 to Princess of Wales Manufactures—Textile 553 Fabrics—History of ,, ,, in Eighteenth Century 569 ,,, , in Nineteenth Century 578 Manure Manufacturers 622 Margaret of Anjou (Queen of Henry 185 VI.) visited Norwich Market, Corn 58 Market Cross, the 188 Market, Cattle, cost of 49 improvements, &c Market, Fish 64 Market Place, dimensions of 63 Market Place, formerly the Great 18 Croft Martineau Family 106 Martyr, the Boy William 174 Martyr, Thomas Bilney 51, 191 Martyrs (see also Lollards’ Pit) 184, 191, 193, 196, 203, 206, 242, 243 Masons, Free, Dean Prideaux first 272 master here Mayor and Sheriff, alternate 429 nominations of Mayor, the first 72, 170, 684 Mayors and Sheriffs, complete 684 list of Mayor’s Feast, curious speech at 53 a Mayors’ Feasts (see also Civic 52, 204, 378, 403 _et passim_ Feasts) Mayors’ Gold Chain 271 Members of Parliament first 176 elected for Norwich Members for Norwich, complete 669 list of Methodists, Calvinistic 256 Methodist Free Church Chapels 112 Methodist, Primitive, Chapels 112 Methodists, Wesleyan 112, 257 Miles Spencer, Tomb of 34 Ministers, Nonconformist 720 Modern City, situation and extent 15 of Monasteries, dissolution of 194 Monastic Institutions 135 Monumental Brasses 140 Moore William (last Mayor of Old 401 Corporation) Mountain, Right Rev. Jacob 311 Municipal Reform Act 170, 400 Murder of Isaac Jermy, Recorder 416 Museum, Norfolk and Norwich 60, 401 Musical Festivals 324, 333, 356, 403 ,, History of 455 Mustard and Starch Manufactory 84, 605 (Messrs. J. and J. Colman’s)

National Rate advocated by Mr. G. 410, 412, 414 Gedge and others Navigation, Norwich, history of 357 the Nelson, Lord, educated at Grammar 45, 726 School ,, memorials of, in Guildhall 51, 288 ,, portrait of, in St. Andrew’s 56, 289 Hall ,, statue of, in Cathedral Close 45 ,, victory of, celebrated in 330 Norwich New Catton (Christ Church) 92, 405 New Mills 74 Newspaper, first in Norwich 269 Nineteenth Century, Norwich in 315 the Nonconformist Ministers, list of 720 Nonconformists (see Chapels) 109, 720 ,, Baptists 110, 111, 112 ,, Catholic Apostolic 115 ,, Friends 113 ,, Free Christian Church 114 ,, Independents 109, 110 ,, Irvingites 115 ,, Jews 115 ,, Lady Huntingdon’s Connexion 110 ,, Methodist Free Church 112 ,, ,, Primitive 112 ,, ,, Wesleyan 112 ,, Presbyterian 112 ,, Roman Catholics 113, 114 ,, Swedenborgians 114 ,, Unitarians 113 Nonconformity in Norwich, history 241, 294 of Norman Conquest 165 Norman Architecture, specimens of 62 Northwic, Norwich named so by the 11 Angles Norwich—Aborigines 146 ,, and Caister, traditional 10 couplet ,, “a Port” 357 ,, Antiquities 116 ,, Assizes removed to 381 ,, became a Danish City 12 ,, Bishops, list of 708 ,, Clergy of City and Hamlets 719 ,, Corporation of (see Corporation) ,, Crape Manufacture 581, 592, 593 ,, custody of, assigned by Canute 162 to Earl Turkel ,, Deans, list of 715 ,, during Civil Wars 216 ,, during Commonwealth 222 ,, extract from Domesday Book 166 ,, first represented in 176 Parliament ,, from fourteenth to eighteenth 258 centuries ,, in the Roman Period 10, 152 ,, in the Anglo-Saxon Period 158 ,, in the Norman Period 165 ,, in the Twelfth Century 169 ,, in the Thirteenth Century 173 ,, in the Fourteenth Century 177 ,, in the Fifteenth Century 183 ,, in the Sixteenth Century 188 ,, in the Seventeenth Century 212 ,, in the Seventeenth Century, 224 Sir Thos. Browne and Lord Macaulay on ,, in the Eighteenth Century 268 ,, in the Nineteenth Century 315 ,, Jews first settled in 165 ,, made a Staple Town 178 ,, Mayors and Sheriffs, complete 684 list of ,, Members of Parliament for, 669 complete list of ,, Navigation, history of the 357 ,, Nonconformity, history of 241, 294 ,, Recorder of, Isaac Jermy, 416 murdered ,, Recorders, list of 704 ,, seriously injured by Fire 188, 277 ,, Shawl Manufacture 587 ,, Site of, formerly under the 9, 10 sea ,, Stewards, list of 705 ,, supplies against Spanish 205 Armada ,, under the Angles n 11 ,, under the Danes 162 ,, under the Reform Era 379 ,, Union (New Act) 438 ,, Venta Icenorum of the Romans 11, 117, 153

Octagon Chapel (Unitarian) 113, 138, 295 Old Bridewell, a curious flint 71 structure (built about 1370) Old Corporation (see Corporation) “Old Crome,” artist 89, 542 Old Meeting House 109 ,, Rev. J. Hallett on the History 251 of Old Men’s Hospital 79, 197, 279, 733 Old Norwich 117 ,, fortifications of 122 Old Walls and Gates—Mr. R. Fitch 121–127 on Opie, Mrs., buried in Gildencroft 111 ,, Notice of 537 Orphan’s Home 733

Paper Bag Makers 620 Paper Manufacturers 621 “Pardon Cloister” Indulgences 137 Parker, Archbishop, memoir of 211 Parishes and Parish Churches 62 Parliament—Norwich first 176 represented in Parliamentary Reform, Movements 284, 341, 380, 643, 648 in favour of Parr, Dr. Samuel 311 Parry, Capt. W. E., Freedom of 351 City presented to “Paston Letters” on Norwich 178 Manufactures Paving and Lighting, Act obtained 291, 324 for Paving of Norwich, worst in 14, 291 England Pearson, Dr. John, Memoir of 238 Pelham, Dr., present Bishop, 714 notice of Perpendicular Architecture, 62 Specimens of Peter, the Wild Youth 277 Physical Condition of Norwich at 9 an early period Plagues and Pestilences 203, 206, 213, 214, 259, 377 Pockthorpe, Hamlet of 108 Police Introduced 403 Political History 635 Poor Law, New Act for Norwich 438 Poor Law Reform 410 Poor Law Removal Act 412 Population, &c., by Domesday Book 12, 13, 260 ,, at various periods 13, 315, 375, 408, 430, 435 Portrait of J. H. Gurney, Esq., 60 in Museum Portrait of Nelson by Beechey 56 Portraits and Pictures in St. 57 Andrew’s Hall Portraits in Corn Exchange (Earl 59 of Leicester & J. Culley, Esq.) Portraits in Shirehall (Lord 50 Wodehouse, Earl of Leicester, and H. Dover, Esq.) Post Office 62 Precedence, Questions of 213 Presbyterian (Scotch) Chapel 112 Presbyterians (Unitarians) 295 History of Prideaux, Dr., Inscription in 34 memory of Primitive Methodist Chapels 112 Prince Alfred in Norwich 443 Prince and Princess of Wales in 443 Norwich Prince’s Street Chapel 109 Priories—Benedictine and St. 136 Leonard’s Priory Yard Chapel 112, 253 Protestant Association 407 Established Provisions, high price of 286, 293 Public Dispensary Established 325 Public Library 59 Publishers, Manufacturing 615 Pull’s Ferry 44 Puritans, their doings and 219, 243, 244 sufferings

Queen (see Royal Visits) Queen Caroline, Address to 350

Railway Communications 15, 16, 409 Rajah of Sarawak, Educated at 45, 726 Grammar School Read, Sir Peter, tomb of 65 Rebellion, Kett’s 198 Rebellion, Wat Tyler’s 178 Recorder of Norwich (Isaac Jenny) 416 murdered Recorders of Norwich, list of 704 Reed, Rev. Andrew 251 Reed, Rev. Andrew, on the Rise of 247 Nonconformity in Norwich Reformation, the 184, 206 Reform in Parliament, movements 284, 341, 380, 643, 648 in favour of Reformed Parliament—first 650 election (1832) Religious History of Norwich 722 Rifle Volunteers 433 Rigby, Edward, M.D. 311 Rise and Progress of the City 9, 11 River Wensum, rise and course of 16 River Yare 15 Robert, Viscount of Yarmouth, 237 memoir of Roger Bigod 163, 166, 168, 169, 172, 173, 174, 175 Roman Catholic Chapels 113, 114 Roman Invasion 152 ,, opinion of Rev. Scott Surtees 152 Roman Roads 117, 118, 119, 153 Rosary Burial Ground 108 Royal Agricultural Society’s 416 Visit Royal Visits—Catherine 189 ,, Charles II. and Queen 223, 225 ,, Duke of Edinburgh (Prince 443 Alfred) ,, Duke of Sussex 345 ,, Edward I. and Eleanor 29 ,, Edward III. and Philippa 178 ,, Elizabeth 43, 51, 205 ,, Elizabeth Woodville (Queen of 185 Edward IV.) ,, Henry I. 169 ,, Henry VI. 184 ,, Henry VII. 186 ,, John 173 ,, Margaret of Anjou (Queen of 185 Henry VI.) ,, Prince and Princess of Wales 443 ,, Prince Alfred (Duke of 443 Edinburgh) ,, Queen of Denmark 443 Rush, James Blomfield, murderer 416 of Isaac Jermy, Recorder

Saint William 312 Saints, All, parish of 96 Sampson and Hercules’ Court 46 Sandby, George, D.D. 312 Sandringham Gates, the 437, 612 Savings Bank opened 339 Say, William 312 Sayers, Frank, M.D. 312 Scarlett, Sir James, made Lord 401 Abinger School, Commercial 726 ,, Grammar 45, 726 ,, of Art 61 Schools, Endowed and Charity 628 See, Bishop’s, origin of 706 ,, removed to Norwich 13, 706 Separation of Norwich and Norfolk 170 Sepulchral Urns of Iceni 148 Settlement and Removal, Law of 414 Seventeenth Century, Norwich in 212 the ,, ,, Sir T. Browne & Lord 224 Macaulay on Shawls made in Norwich 587 Sheriffs of Norwich, complete 688 list of Shirehall, portraits in (Earl of 49, 50 Leicester, Lord Wodehouse, and H. Dover, Esq.) Shoe Trade, Wholesale 601 Shops, Warehouses, Banks, &c 18 Sixteenth Century, Norwich in the 188 Slavery, Abolition of 368, 371, 374 Smith, Sir James Edward 312 Soap Manufacture 621 Soc, Sac, and Custom 166 Spanish Armada, supplies against 205 Springfield, T. O. 373, 588 ,, first Mayor of New Corporation 403 St. Andrew, Parish of 70 ,, Andrew, Parish of (Eaton) 104 ,, Andrew’s Hall, description and 51 history of ,, ,, dimensions of 54 ,, ,, Flag of France taken by 58 Nelson ,, ,, Mayor’s Feasts in 52 _et passim_ ,, ,, Musical Festivals 53, 324, 333, 356, 403, 455 ,, ,, Portraits and Pictures in 57 ,, ,, Portrait of Nelson, by 56 Beechey ,, ,, restored 281 ,, ,, used as Corn Hall and 54, 272 Exchange ,, Augustine, parish of 87 ,, Bartholomew, Heigham 102 ,, Benedict, parish of 74 ,, Clement, parish of 91 ,, Edmund, parish of 93 ,, Etheldred, parish of 82 ,, George Colegate, parish of 89 ,, George Tombland, parish of 77 ,, Giles, parish of 67 ,, Giles’ Hospital (see Charitable Institutions) ,, Gregory, parish of 68 ,, Helen, parish of 79 ,, Helen’s Hospital (see Charitable Institutions) ,, James, parish of 93, 108 ,, John Maddermarket, parish of 69 ,, John Sepulchre, parish of 95 ,, John Timberhill, parish of 97 ,, Julian, parish of 81 ,, Lawrence, parish of 73 ,, Leonard’s Priory 136 ,, Margaret, parish of 74 ,, Mark (Lakenham) 105 ,, Martin at Oak, parish of 86 ,, Martin at Palace, parish of 79 ,, Mary, Friars of 138 ,, Mary Coslany, parish of 88 ,, Matthew (Thorpe) 106 ,, Michael at Coslany, parish of 85 ,, Michael at Plea, parish of 77 ,, Michael at Thorn, parish of 96 ,, Paul, parish of 93, 108 ,, Peter Hungate, parish of 78 ,, Peter Mancroft, parish of 64 ,, Peter per Mountergate, parish 81 of ,, Peter Southgate, parish of 82 ,, Philip (Heigham) 102 ,, Saviour, parish of 92 ,, Simon and Jude, parish of 79 ,, Stephen, parish of 94 ,, Swithin, parish of 73 Stanfield Hall, Murders at 416 Stanley, Bishop, Memoir of 522 Stannard, Alfred, artist 549 Stannard, Joseph, artist 548 Stannard, Mrs., artist 549 Staple Town, Norwich made a 178 Starch and Mustard manufactory 84, 605 (Messrs. J. and J. Colman’s) Stark, James, artist 550 Stevenson, William, F.S.A. 313 Stewards of Norwich, list of 705 Stormont and Scarlett’s Election—Commission of Enquiry ,, ,, Evidence of Bush, Henry 397 ,, ,, ,, Cooper, William 397 ,, ,, ,, Cozens, Mr. 397 ,, ,, ,, Francis, J. 397 ,, ,, ,, Hayes, John 397 ,, ,, ,, Rust, Thomas 396 ,, ,, ,, Turner, Alderman 397 ,, ,, ,, Wortley, Mr. 397 Stracey, Sir H. J., Bart., M.P., 668 unseated Street Improvements (London and 19 Opie Streets) Streets named from Trades 121 Streets, names of, first put up 280 Surtees, Rev. Scott F., on Roman 152 Invasion Survey of the City 9 Sutton, Dr. Charles Manners 328 Swedenborgians (French Church) 114 Sweyn, landing of 118

Tabernacle Chapel 110, 256 Tanners’ Guild 74 Taylor, Dr. John 295, 313 Taylor, Professor Edward 295, 344, 350, 458, 643 ,, ,, Memoir of 475 Taylor, William 313 Telegraphic Communications 16 Textile Manufactures, History of 553 ,, in Eighteenth Century 569 ,, in Nineteenth Century 578 Theatre Royal 61, 322, 367 Thelwall, the Republican Orator 287 Thirteenth Century, Norwich in 173 the Thorpe, Hamlet of 106 Thurlow, Edward Baron 313 Tillett, J. H., petitioned 668 against Sir H. J. Stracey, Bart., M.P. Tobacco and Cigar Trade 617 Tombland, St. George’s 77 Towers of the Old City 124 Trade Regulations in Seventeenth 265 Century Trade Stations and Rows in Olden 19, 121 Times Trinity, Holy, Church of 102 (Heigham) Trowse Millgate 106 Turnpike Roads opened 280 Twelfth Century, Norwich in the 169 Tyler’s Wat, Rebellion 178

Unitarian Chapel (Octagon) 113 Unitarians, History of the 295 Upholsterers, Manufacturing 619 Urns, Sepulchral, of Iceni 148

Valpy, Dr., Head Master of 45, 334 Grammar School Venta Icenorum 11 ,, Gurney, Hudson, on the 153 ,, Woodward, B. B., on the 117 Volunteer Infantry 325, 326 Volunteer Rifle Corps 433, 738

Wales, Prince and Princess of, in 443 Norwich Walloons settled here 204 Walls and Gates, old 121 Ward Elections, cost of contests 319, 320 Water Gate to Cathedral Precincts 44 Water Works 99 Wat Tyler’s Rebellion 178 Weavers’ Co-operative Society 441 Weavers, disturbances by 373, 406, 583 Weavers, number of (in 1839–1840) 584 Wellington, Statue of 63 Wensum River, rise and course of 16 Wesley, Revs. John and Charles in 112, 257 Norwich White Friars 137 Whitlingham (Sir R. J. H. 107 Harvey’s) Wilkins, William 314 Wilks, Rev. Mark 482, 637 William, “The Boy Martyr” 174 Windham, Major General, “Hero of 433 the Redan” Windham, William 314 Wine, Spirits, and Beer Trade 615 Woodward, B. B., on 23 Fortifications of Castle ,, on Venta Icenorum 117 Wool Weaving Introduced 171 Workhouse, first act for erecting 269 a Workhouse, New (built in 1859) 101 Workhouse, Old 327 Worship, Places of (see “Churches” and “Chapels”) Worsted Manufacture introduced 166 Wren, Bishop, and the “Book of 244 Sports” Wrench, Sir Benjamin 314

Yarn Company, first stone of 403 factory laid Young Men’s Christian Association 732

[Picture: Decorative graphic]

A SURVEY OF NORWICH.

Rise and Progress of the City.

IN tracing the rise and progress of the city, it is necessary to inquire respecting the physical condition of the district around it at an early period. Before the dawn of authentic history, it is in vain to expect full information on this point; but the natural changes that have taken place may be traced with tolerable clearness. Geologists inform us that the whole area of Norfolk, including Norwich, was in remote ages under the sea; that by the slow accumulation of alluvial matter islands were formed in this estuary; and that the waters were divided into several channels.

We may speculate as to the causes of these changes of the level of land and water, but we cannot doubt the fact of such changes having taken place. When or why the great body of waters retired to its great reservoir in the bed of the ocean is unknown; but whatever the causes, it is certain that between the first and the eleventh century the waters did gradually recede till the river assumed a narrower appearance. The higher part of the city from Ber Street up to Lakenham was probably, 2000 years ago, like an island surrounded by water flowing up the valley of the Taas on that side, and over the valley of the Wensum on the other side.

The existence of Norwich as a city during the Roman period from B.C. 50 till A.D. 400 or 500 is very doubtful. Camden says that its name occurs nowhere till the Danish wars. If it did exist, it was only a fishing station, for then a broad arm of the sea flowed up the valley of the Yare, and covered a great part of the north side of the present city. Indeed, for centuries after the Christian era this arm of the sea may have flowed over the greater part of the ground on which the north side of the city now stands. In the course of time, however, the arm of the sea gradually silted up and left only the present narrow river Wensum flowing into the Yare.

Tradition has handed down this couplet:

“Caister was a city when Norwich was none, And Norwich was built of Caister stone.”

There is, however, no evidence that Caister was ever more than a village on the banks of the Taas, where the Romans built a camp to overawe the neighbourhood; while all the old Roman roads have always radiated from Norwich, proving that it was a place of importance in the Roman period. The _Iceni_ called it _Caer Gwent_, altered by the Romans into _Venta_, so that it was the _Venta Icenorum_ of the Romans, who probably threw up the mound on which a castle was afterwards built, in the Anglo-Saxon period.

Norwich very likely took its rise after the departure of the Romans, about A.D. 418, on account of the distracted state of the empire. Then, the camp or station at Caister being almost deserted, the few remaining Romans joined with the natives, and they became one people; and the situation of Norwich being thought preferable to that of Caister, many retired hither for the facility of fishing and the easier communication with the country. Caister, however, though almost deserted, kept up some reputation, till the river becoming so shallow, cut off all intercourse with it by water and reduced it to a place of no importance.

After the departure of the Romans, the Angles from the opposite coast made themselves masters of this part of the island, and to them is chiefly owing the further progress of the city and its present name. “Northwic” signifies a northern station on a winding river, and may have been so called because of its being situated north of the ancient station at Caister.

Norwich Castle was probably built in the reign of Uffa, the first king of the East Angles, soon after the year 575. About 642 it became a royal castle, and one of the seats of Anna, king of the East Angles, whose daughter Ethelfred, on her marriage with Tombert, a nobleman or prince of the Girvii (a people inhabiting the fenny parts of Norfolk), had this Castle, with the lands belonging to it, given her by her father. About 677, this Tombert and his wife granted to the monastery of Ely, which they had founded, certain lands held of Norwich Castle, by Castle guard, to which service they must have been liable before the grant, for, by the laws of the Angles, lands granted to the church were not liable to secular service, unless they were at first subject thereto whilst in secular hands, which proves that this was a Royal Castle in the time of King Anna.

The Danes soon came over in such large numbers and so frequently, that they at last got possession of the whole of East Anglia, and became the parent-stock of the inhabitants of parts of Norfolk and Suffolk. In 1003, Sweyn or Swaine, King of Denmark, came over with his forces and, in revenge for the massacre of the Danes in the previous year, burnt Norwich and its Castle, as well as many other places. They afterwards rebuilt the city and castle, and came hither in such large numbers, that Norwich became a Danish city, with a Danish Castle, about 1011. After the restoration of the Anglo-Saxon dynasty, the city entered on a new career of prosperity, and according to the Domesday Book of Edward the Confessor, it contained 25 churches, and 1320 burgesses, besides the serfs or labourers. It was still the capital of East Anglia, with a few hundred houses, but the greater part of the area round the Castle presented only marshes and green fields. Two broad arms of the sea still flowed up the valleys on each side of the city. The whole district all around consisted of marsh, and moor, and woods, and yet uncultivated land.

In 1094, Herbert de Losinga, then Bishop of Thetford, removed the See hither, and began to build the Cathedral, from which time the city increased yearly in wealth and trade. Domesday Book (1086) contains an account of all the lands and estates in England, and also of all the towns. Norwich was then next in size to York, and contained 738 families. Thetford had at the same time 720 burgesses, and 224 houses empty. Thetford, therefore, was decaying and Norwich was rising. In 1377, a census was taken of several great towns in England, and Norwich was found to contain 5300 people, for a migration hither of Flemings and Walloons, who introduced the manufacture of woollen and worstead fabrics, had increased the population. In 1575, the muster roll of men delivered to the government capable of bearing arms contained 2120 names, which would be the proportion for 15,000 people. The population in 1693 amounted to 28,881 inhabitants. In 1752 it had increased to 36,241, and in 1786 to 40,051. In 1801 it had decreased to 36,832. In 1811 the number was 37,256, and during the next ten years so large was the increase that in 1821 the number was 50,288. In 1831, when the census was taken, Norwich contained 61,116; in 1841, 61,796; in 1851, 68,713; in 1861, 74,414.

Notwithstanding the continued succession of wars from the revolution in 1688 to the conclusion of the peace in 1763, the city continued to prosper, and its trade had become very great, extending all over Europe, and Norwich manufactures were in demand in every town on the continent. Indeed, the period of war, from 1743 to 1763, was the most prosperous era in Norwich history. The prosperity continued till the disputes arose between the government and the North American colonies, which commenced in 1765 and became serious in 1774, and were not terminated till 1783, when the independence of the United States was acknowledged. During this period, in fact, the trade of the place was so good, that great numbers of people came from the surrounding villages and obtained employment in the factories. After the passing of the paving act in 1806, the new paving of the city commenced, and proceeded very slowly. This necessary work was interrupted at intervals from the want of money, and the Commissioners got deep in debt. In forty years they spent £300,000, and left Norwich the worst paved town in England. The drainage was very defective, and the hamlets were not drained at all. The supply of water was altogether insufficient, and in the hamlets was obtained from wells. The Board of Health was established in 1851, under the powers of the Public Health Acts, and since then its provisions have been carried out. The sanitary condition of Norwich has subsequently greatly improved and the rate of mortality decreased, owing to the wise and judicious measures which have been adopted of late years. A fuller description of “the Ancient City” will be found under the head of “Norwich Antiquities.”

The Modern City.

THE modern city, with all its improvements and extensions, presents a very different aspect to what it did in former times, when it was enclosed by high walls and gates. It stands for the most part on the summit and sloping sides of a rising ground, running parallel with the river Wensum on the southern side, above its confluence with the Yare. Its greatest extent from St. Clement’s Hill (north) to Hartford Bridges (south) is four and a quarter miles; and following the zigzag line of boundary it is about seventeen miles in circumference, comprising 6630 acres of land. Within its jurisdiction, as a city and a county of itself, it includes the picturesque hamlets of Lakenham and Bracondale on the south, of Catton on the north, of Thorpe on the east, and of Heigham on the west, in which direction Norwich is rapidly extending.

The city is situated in the eastern division of Norfolk, of which county it is the capital. It is 20 miles distant from the sea at Yarmouth, 108 miles distant from London, 42 from Lynn, 22 from Cromer, 43 from Ipswich, 72 from Cambridge, and 99 from Lincoln; being in latitude 52° 42′ N., and in longitude 1° 20′ E of Greenwich. The Great Eastern Railway system places it in communication with all the towns before named, and all the large towns of England. There is a railway station at Thorpe for the Norfolk line from Yarmouth to Ely, and another station at St. Stephen’s Gates for the Suffolk line from Norwich to Ipswich. Telegraphic lines are established along both railways, and there is also another line from London, viâ Norwich, to Cromer, on the northern coast of the county. Navigation is carried on by river from Norwich to Yarmouth. The Wensum, which rises at Rudham, enters the city on the N.W., and leaves it on the S.E. It pursues a boldly serpentine course through the town, first traces for a short space the western limits, then describes a semi-circle round the left bank, then winds through a thinly-built part of the city, and next traverses a compact eastern side. An eminence, that may be called a hill, compared with the flatness of the surrounding country, extends along the right bank of the river and terminates near its last bend; and this eminence bears on its summit and its slopes all the more ancient parts of the city, with a large portion of its present streets and buildings. The outline of the area within the old walls somewhat resembles the form of a cornucopia, with the narrow end twisted round from the S. to the S.E., and has been aptly compared to the figure of a haunch of venison. A strong flint embattled wall, flanked with forty towers, pierced by twelve beautiful gates, and fortified by a broad ditch, formerly surrounded the city, except at two places, where the Wensum formed a natural defence; but having fallen into decay, and being considered a hindrance to the growth and improvement of the town, it was stripped of all its gates, its ditch was filled in, and the only portions of walls which were permitted to remain are a few strips, here and there, of crazy ruin. The city inside the walls is divided into thirty-five parishes, and has five more and parts of two others within the county of the city. Altogether it contains forty parish churches, exclusive of the Cathedral, the French and Dutch Churches, and Christ’s Church, New Catton; and upwards of twenty Nonconformist chapels. It formerly included about twenty other parishes, but they have been consolidated with some of the present parishes, and the churches either desecrated or taken down. Among the chapels which have altogether disappeared may be mentioned the Chapel of St. Mary in the Field, St. Catherine’s Chapel, Hildebrand’s Chapel, Magdalen Chapel, St. Michael’s Chapel, (Tombland), St. Nicholas’s Chapel, St. Olave’s Chapel, (near King Street gates), and others.

The older portion of the city in most of its street arrangements is very irregular; and its thoroughfares are narrow and winding, following in some instances the line of the ancient walls. Some of its houses, however, are handsome structures, and are often admired by strangers as beautiful specimens of squared flint facings. The old street architecture, however, is rapidly vanishing before the hand of improvement. Many of the half-timber, lath and plaster houses, remarkable for their grotesque gables and picturesque appearance, have given place to plainer, but more comfortable and convenient dwellings; some of which have handsome fronts, more especially round the Market Place, and in the principal streets. We may, especially, notice the warehouses and shops of Messrs. Chamberlin, Mr. G. L. Coleman, and others in the Market Place; of Mr. Caley, Mr. Fiske, Mr. Livock, Mr. Dixon, Mr. Sawyer, and Mr. Allen in London Street; the offices of the National Provincial Bank in London Street; and of the Crown Bank on the Castle Meadow.

THE MARKET PLACE.

The Market Place, which occupies the centre of the city, is one of the most spacious in England; and being overhung by the singularly massive square tower of St. Peter’s, and presenting several specimens of antique houses of the gable-front construction, is very picturesque in its appearance. It was formerly the great Croft, belonging to the Castle, on the outer ditch of which it is supposed to have abutted. The first parts built upon were the east and west sides and the north end. The other portions were built by virtue of royal licenses. As already indicated, it has been within the last few years greatly improved, by the erection of new houses and fronts; and upon the whole it may be said to be well paved—though as regards the paving of the city generally, there is still room for improvement. The approaches to the Market Place, it should here be mentioned, were formerly very narrow and difficult, and they are not even now all that could be wished; but many improvements have nevertheless been made at very great expense. Thus, London Street has within the last few years been widened, at a cost of £20,000; and Opie Street has been opened from London Street to the Castle Hill. Of course, the principal places of business are mostly clustered together, either in the Market Place or in the nearest streets; but in former times, every business in Norwich had its particular row or station. Thus, in ancient deeds, we read of the Glover’s Row, Mercers Row, Spicer’s Row, Needler’s Row, Tawer’s Row, Ironmonger’s Row; also of the Apothecary’s Market, the Herb Market, the Poultry Market, the Bread Market, the Flesh Market, the Wool and Sheep Market, the Fish Market, the Hay Market, the Wood Market, the Cheese Market, the Leather Market, the Cloth-cutter’s Market, the White-ware Market; all of which we find mentioned before the reign of Richard II.; for about the latter end of the reign of Edward III., trades began to be mingled in such a manner, that many of these names were lost.

NORWICH CASTLE.

[Picture: Norwich castle]

HIGH over the centre of the old city, over all its churches, and towers, and streets, rises the Norman Castle, frowning in feudal grandeur over the whole district. It stands on the summit of a mound or hill, steep on all sides, which appears to be chiefly the work of nature, with additions by human labour. The embattled quadrangular keep, in its restored state, retaining all the details of architectural decoration peculiar to the Norman style, presents a faithful image, though without the grey antiquity, of its original exterior, and is a noble striking object from whatsoever point it is seen. The common history is, that a fortress existed here during the Saxon period, and that Uffa, the first King of the East Angles, formed one of earth, according to the rude method of the times. In 642, Anna, another of the East Anglian kings, is said to have resided here; and during the Danish wars, this fortress was often taken and retaken. Alfred is believed to have repaired it, and to have erected the first stone structure, which was destroyed by the Danes in 1004. Canute probably erected another castle here about 1018, and after the conquest it was much injured during a siege, and was rebuilt by Roger Bigod. The plan of the fortifications has been a subject of some controversy. According to the account commonly given of the fortress, it consisted of a barbican or outwork to defend the entrance; three nearly concentric lines of defence, each consisting of a wall and ditch, and enclosing a ballium or court; and a great central keep, as the last resort in the event of a siege. The area comprised a space of twenty-three acres, and each ditch had a bridge over it similar to the one now remaining. The barbican, or outwork of the fortification, was situated beyond the outer ditch, if it ever existed. The wall commenced at the opening called Orford Street, and gradually extended to the end of Golden Ball Lane, the other extremity terminating in Buff Coat Lane. The widest part is stated to have been forty yards broad, and gradually decreasing at the extremities, the length being about 220 yards. Part of the original form of the wall was supposed to be traceable from the position of the buildings erected on its site in Buff Coat Lane. The road to the castle from Ber Street was supposed to pass through the barbican, exactly where Golden Ball Lane recently stood. The circuits of the outer vallum and the middle vallum are minutely described by most of the local historians; but unfortunately there is no sufficient evidence in support of this old theory of three ditches round the castle—nothing but a vague traditional story, filled up by imagination. The editors of the history published by Crouse in 1768, say:

“This castle was defended by a wall surrounding it, built on the brow of the hill on which it stands, and by three ditches; the outermost of which reached on the west to the edge of the present Market Place, on the north to London Lane, which it took in; on the east nearly to Conisford Street, and on the south to the Golden Ball Lane. The postern or back entrance into the works was on the north-east, by which a communication was had with the earl’s palace, then occupying the whole space between the outer ditch and Tombland. The grand entrance is on the south, from which you passed three bridges in going to the Castle. The first hath been immemorially destroyed; the ruins of the second remained till the ditches were filled up and levelled thirty years since; and the third still continues and consists of one whole arch, exceeded by very few in England.”

Mr. John Kirkpatrick, who wrote an account of the Castle in the last century, gives quite a different description of the earth works. He notices the present ditch, and a second entrenchment lying between the present ditch and the Shire house, which then stood near the old weighing house on the hill. He also refers to the Shire house ditch as a distinct entrenchment. He describes a bridge house on the inner side of the great southern ditch in the middle of the present Cattle Market, and the line of the houses forming the southern limit of the Cattle Market seems to show the limit of the outwork.

Mr. B. B. Woodward, F.S.A., in his lectures delivered here on “Norwich in the Olden Time,” adopted this view of the earth works, which he believed did not consist of three concentric lines of defence. He described the Saxon fortress as probably no more than a strong palisade carried along the inner edge of two great trenches and the top of the steep bank of the small stream called the “Cockey;” the buildings consisting of a great timber hall with offices and stabling. He believed that the Normans strengthened the outworks, cast up the great mound, dug the vast inner ditch, and reared the noble donjon, which, before the “restoration” of its exterior, was a fine feudal monument. After the Norman period the earth works, Mr. Woodward thought, underwent great changes. The horse-shoe trench on the east side disappeared and was built upon. This horse-shoe trench enclosed the Castle Meadow. Another smaller outwork was formed on the south side of the original great southern trench, both of the last named being crossed by bridges. In support of this view, Mr. Woodward referred to the account given by Kirkpatrick, who, as we have said, described the second ditch as lying between the great circular ditch and the Shire house, which then stood near the old weighing house. The old way from King Street had been disused because the growth of the city had so greatly altered the defensive character of the fortress. In addition to this, there were the names of two churches, one of which was St. Martin’s, (originally called “on the Hill,”) but afterwards “at Bailey” or “at the Castle gate;” and the other, St. John, now Timberhill, but then “at the Castle gate.” Unless a way existed through the outworks to the castle hill, these churches could not have been properly called “at the Castle gate;” and as the “Bailey,” was the space enclosed within the intrenchments of the Castle, the other name of St. Martin would be quite inappropriate. The Buckes, in their view of the Castle, represented a ruined building, like a bridge house, on the inner side of the great southern ditch. Before the end of the last century, the level of the south side of the hill was raised to form a Cattle Market.

Mr. Harrod, some years since, at a meeting of the Archæological Society held in the Museum, exploded the theory of three circular ditches by showing from the city records that houses had always stood on the sites of the supposed outer and middle ditches; the inner vallum was the only one, and extended round the base of the hill on which the keep is erected, and is plainly traceable at the present time. It is planted with trees and shrubs, having a gravelled walk in the centre, and is enclosed with an iron palisade. The area of the upper ballium is level and comparatively high, and forms an irregular circle on the summit of the hill, surrounded by an iron railing. The great Keep situated within this area is a massive quadrangular pile, 110 feet in length from east to west, 92 feet 10 inches in breadth from north to south, and 69½ feet high to the top of the merlons of the battlements, and the walls are from 10 to 13 feet in thickness. From the basement to the top are three stories, each strengthened by small projecting buttresses, between which the walls are ornamented with semi-circular arches resting on small three-quarter columns. In the upper story the backs of some of these arcades are decorated with a kind of reticulated work, formed by the stones being laid diagonally, so that the joints resemble the meshes of a net. To give it greater richness of effect, each stone had two deeply chased lines, crossing each other parallel with the joints, so as to present the appearance of Mosaic. On the exterior of the west side are two arches which appear to have been originally intended as a deception to the enemy, giving an idea of weakness externally, where in fact was the greatest strength; for the wall is not only 13 feet in thickness in this place, but, within, it was additionally barricaded by two oblique walls which were, long ago, taken down. On the east side of the keep there is a projecting tower called Bigod’s tower, which was most probably built by Hugh Bigod, third Earl of Norfolk, who succeeded his brother as High Constable of the Castle, early in the 12th century. This tower, which was an open portal to the grand entrance of the Castle, is of a richer kind of architecture, and in the genuine Norman style, and since 1824, has been entirely restored, so as now to exhibit its pristine aspect, which is certainly different from the rest of the keep. The interior of the keep has been so greatly altered in order to adapt it to prison purposes, that the original arrangement of apartments cannot be traced.

The style of architecture has been a matter of dispute, as to whether it is Saxon, Danish, or Norman. Mr. Boid, in his history and analysis of the principal styles of architecture, ventures to challenge any one to prove the existence of any monument in this country of real Saxon skill; nor has any specimen been discovered. Mr. Wilkins, of Norwich, who has described both the ancient and modern states of the fortress in Vol. xii. of the Archæologia, believed, however, that the part which yet remains might have been constructed chiefly in the reign of Canute, but that it is notwithstanding in the style of architecture practised by the Saxons, long before England became subject to the Danes, and is the best exterior specimen of the kind. Other and later writers, with much better evidence, believe the whole keep to be Norman, of the time of William Rufus; for it is similar in style to Castle Rising, built in the reign of that king, by Albini. The earth works and stone works are very similar. The whole of the exterior of the keep has been refaced, the original style being preserved. It is to be regretted that the work was not wholly refaced with small square stones, in the Norman manner, instead of commencing with the large massive freestone, which is coloured to represent smaller stones. This defect, however, on being discovered was remedied, for a great part of the exterior was finished after the Norman fashion. The county jail stands on the east side of the keep, and was built on the site of a previous prison in 1824–28 at a cost of £15,000. It comprises a governor’s house and three radiating wings, and has room for 224 male prisoners. Three bridges are, as we have said, thought by some authorities to have crossed three ditches, but for more than a century the present bridge has been the only one. This bridge consists of one large semicircular arch. Mr. Wilkins supposed that it was the original bridge built by the Saxons, but this is only conjectural like the rest of his theory about the earth works. At the termination of this bridge, upon the upper ballium, are the remains of two circular towers, 14 feet in diameter, which are supposed to have flanked the portal of the ballium wall. The history of the castle will be given at some length in subsequent pages. We shall now proceed to

THE CATHEDRAL.

THIS grand Norman pile is the great ornament to the city, but its situation is so low that its goodly proportions can be seen only from one point of view, namely from Mousehold Heath. From that elevation it presents the dignity of a great work of architecture, and the spire may be seen on a clear day, on the north, at a distance of twenty miles. The noble tower, with its gracefully tapering spire, second in height only to that of Salisbury, the flying buttresses, and the circular chapels at the east end, are objects of interest to the attentive antiquarian observer.

The cloisters on the south side, and the bishop’s palace and grounds on the north, and other premises, shut out from public view most of the exterior, except the west front. A fine view of the splendid effect, produced by a series of unbroken lines, may be obtained opposite the south transept, where the whole pile, comprising the transept, tower, and spire, blend themselves into one harmonious whole. The interior from the west front entrance presents a most imposing appearance, and when surveying the vast length of the nave, we feel that our forefathers

“Builded better than they knew, Unconscious stones to beauty grew.”

We shall first give, in as complete a manner as our limited space will permit, a sketch of the foundation and progress of the edifice, the erection of which occupied a century, and then we shall describe its different parts, exterior and interior, including the nave, the screen, the choir, the transepts, and the cloisters.

The original structure was begun in 1096 by Herbert de Losinga, the first bishop of the diocese. The portions he built comprise the choir, with the aisles surrounding it, the chapels of Jesus and St. Luke, and the central tower with the episcopal palace on the north side of the church, and a monastery on the south. Bishop Eborard, the successor of Herbert, added the nave and its two aisles, from the ante-choir or rood loft, to the west end. The building, as left by Eborard, remained till 1171, when it sustained some damage by fire, but was repaired by Bishop John de Oxford, about 1197, who also added some alms houses to the monastery. The Lady chapel at the east end, which has long since been destroyed, was the next addition to the building, and was erected by Walter de Suffield, the tenth bishop, who filled the See from 1244 to 1257.

In the year 1271, the tower was greatly injured by lightning during divine service, and in 1272 the whole church was damaged considerably, in the violent warfare which was at that time carried on between the monks and the citizens; but in 1278, having been repaired, the church was again consecrated by William de Middleton on the day he was enthroned Bishop of Norwich, in the presence of King Edward I. and Eleanor his queen, the Bishops of London, Hereford, and Waterford, and many lords and knights. We can now form no idea of the grandeur of such a ceremony in that age.

The tower having been much injured and weakened by fire, a new one, according to Blomefield, was begun and finished by Bishop Ralph de Walpole; but this, says Britton, more properly applies to the spire, the style of which, rather than of the tower, corresponds with that period. Bishop Walpole ruled the diocese from 1289 to 1299. Before his translation to Ely, which took place in the latter year, he commenced the cloister at the north-east angle, and built the chapter house. He only completed a small portion of the east aisles. The chapter house has since been destroyed. The rest of the cloister was built by Richarde de Uppenhall, Bishop Salmon, Henry de Will, John de Hancock, Bishop Wakering, Jeffery, Symonds, and others, and was completed A.D. 1430, in the 133rd year from the first commencement of the work.

In January, 1362, the spire was blown down, and the choir thereby much injured; but under the auspices of Bishop Percy, the present spire was erected and the choir repaired. In 1629, the upper part of the spire was again blown down, and in 1633, at a general chapter, it was ordered to be repaired. In 1843, seven feet were added to its elevation, with the present finial which formed a consistent termination to the crockets.

In 1463, the church was much injured by fire, the wood work in the interior of the tower having been ignited by lightning. Under Bishop Lyhart, however, it was again repaired and ornamented. The splendid stone roof of the nave was added, the cathedral was paved, and a tomb was erected over the founder, which was afterwards demolished during the great rebellion. About the year 1488, Bishop Goldwell built the roof of the choir of similar but inferior work to that of the nave, adding the upper windows and flying buttresses. He also fitted up the choir and the chapels around it, and covered the arched stone work with lead. In 1509 the transepts having been much injured by fire, Bishop Nykke repaired them, adding stone roofs to them in the same manner as the rest of the church.

At the dissolution of the monasteries, the cathedral suffered greatly from the zeal of the Reformers, much curious work being destroyed; and several obnoxious crucifixes, images, niches, tabernacles, and paintings, were removed. In 1643, the fanatics took possession of the church and the adjoining palace, and plundered them of all that was valuable. The Yarmouth people being in want of a workhouse, sent a petition to the Lord Protector, praying that “that great useless pile, the cathedral, might be pulled down, and the stones given them to build a workhouse.” Of course the petition was not granted. Soon after the restoration, the church was fitted up again. In 1740, the nave and aisles were newly paved, the tower was repaired, and the church cleaned. In 1763, the floor of the choir was again repaved, the stalls repaired and painted, and other improvements made, not always in harmony with the original structure.

The edifice was extended, embellished, altered, and repaired by many bishops and by wealthy families till it was completed about 1500. Alternate dilapidations and restorations followed. The dilapidations were sometimes sudden, sometimes gradual, and the restorations have continued at frequent intervals almost to the present day. The entire pile was repaired and beautified on an extensive scale in 1806–7. The decayed ornaments of the west front were restored, and many improvements in other parts were effected in 1818 and following years. The south front was renovated, and several houses which had stood against the walls were removed in 1831. The entire fabric was again restored, on the plan of Edward Blore, about 1840–3; and some portions were repaired, some embellishments were added, and some interesting ancient features were brought into view between the years 1843 and 1868.

The pile as it now stands, comprises a nave of fourteen bays with aisles, a transept of three bays in each wing, a central tower, a steeple, an apsidal sacristy on the north-east side, a choir of four bays with aisles, an apsidal end, and a procession path; also three chapels, in the south side, the north-east side, and south-east side; and a cloister with each alley of eleven panes to the south of the nave. The dimensions of the Cathedral as taken from actual measurement are as follows:—

_Feet_. _Inches_. Length of church 407 0 ,, nave to choir screen 204 0 ,, choir from screen 183 0 ,, roof of nave 251 0 ,, transept 178 0 Breadth of nave and aisles 72 0 ,, choir from back of stalls 27 1 ,, aisles of choir 15 0 Height of spire from ground 315 0 ,, tower 140 5 ,, spire from tower 174 7 ,, roof of nave from pavement 69 6 ,, roof of choir from pavement 83 6

_The Interior_.

We shall now proceed with our description of the interior, which contains the finest specimens of Norman architecture in existence, and admired by all men of taste. Nothing can exceed the grandeur of the lofty nave, massive columns, and wide circular arches. The whole pile is chiefly of the early Norman style, wherein the semi-circular arches and massive short columns are the leading features. These are considerably varied in size, moulding, and ornament, in different parts of the edifice.

The Nave comprises fourteen semicircular arches, ornamented with billet and zigzag mouldings, and supported by massive piers. The arches of the triforium are of similar style to those below. The magnificent roof, the work of Bishop Lyhart, the rebus of whose name is of frequent occurrence upon the vault and corbels, is ornamented with 328 historical figures, curiously carved, in a kind of relievo peculiar to itself, being chiefly composed of little figures, most exactly put together, said to be the only work of the kind in existence, being a complete chain of sacred history, beginning at the tower with the Creation of the World; the different days of the creation being disposed of in the several figures in the intersections of the arched work of the roof. The Fall of Man, Noah’s Ark, and incidents in the lives of the patriarchs, are represented in the first seven arches; the rest to the west end represent events narrated in the New Testament. The interior of the nave looks much too long in proportion to the rest of the pile, and the triforium is out of keeping in consequence of its heavy circular arches being too high as compared with those of the tier below, but the piers of the nave, with the grand arches which they support, are splendid specimens of Norman work and decoration.

The south transept is Norman work modified by a few innovations, and is flanked by square turrets, arcaded at the top and terminating in pinnacles. The north transept is of similar character. The side aisles are low, and the roof of plain vaulting. The west window is of unusually large size, and is of the same design, as regards the tracery, with that in Westminster Hall. This window has been filled in with gorgeously coloured glass, being designed as a memorial of Bishop Stanley, who was buried in the middle of the nave.

In the seventh arch of the north side are the remains of a doorway, with a stone bench, formerly leading into the monks’ preaching yard, now part of the bishop’s garden. Even after the Reformation, and up to the time of the great rebellion, sermons were preached here before the Civic Authorities and the Members of the Cathedral. Between the sixth and seventh pillars is an unpretending inscription to the memory of the learned Dr. Prideaux, formerly Dean of Norwich, author of the “Connection of the Old and New Testaments,” who died November 1st, 1724. The tomb between the corresponding pillars on the opposite side is that of Miles Spencer, Chancellor of the Diocese in 1537. Between the seventh and eighth pillars is the low tomb of Bishop Nykke, who died in 1535. At the eighth pillar a pulpit formerly stood. Bishop Parkhurst’s tomb stands in the next space, between the eighth and ninth pillars.

The Screen was originally the division between the rood-loft and the chapel of our Lady of Pity. Bishop Lyhart erected the rood-loft, and upon it the principal rood or cross was placed with the representation of the Holy Trinity, to whom this church was dedicated; together with the images of the Blessed Virgin and St. John, and such other saints as were esteemed here. The rood or crucifix, of full proportions, was made of wood, and in most churches was placed in a loft constructed for the purpose over the entrance from the church into the chancel. The nave represented the Church Militant, and the chancel the Church Triumphant. Those, therefore, who would pass out of the former into the latter, must go under the loft; that is, must go under the cross and suffer affliction. But no rood was complete without the images of the Virgin and St. John on either side of the cross, in allusion to St. John xix. 26,—“Jesus saw His mother and the disciple standing by, whom He loved.”

The Choir contains sixty-two stalls according to the number of the old foundations, namely, a prior, sub-prior, and sixty monks. They are adorned with rich and quaint carvings and canopies, as far as the west pillars of the tower. The “misereres” (projecting brackets on the under side of the seats of stalls in churches), are richly carved and present a great variety of design. Among the stalls the Rev. R. Hart discovered upwards of sixty _misereres_, and he described them very minutely. In every example that he had seen the space under the ledge is carved in a bold relief, with an ornamented boss on each side to balance, as it were, the centre, whatever it might have been. As may be supposed scriptural or legendary designs are not often found in such a position. There are, however, a few examples.

The interior of the tower, which is raised on four massive arches, presents three arcades, the upper and lower forming galleries, and the former containing the lower windows of the lantern, which are filled with painted glass. The clerestory and roof of the chancel are the work of Bishop Goldwell. Here is an admirable specimen of engrafting a later style upon the Norman architecture, with as little violence to the eye as possible.

The tomb of Bishop Goldwell stands within the chapel, formerly dedicated to St. James, and with its canopy forms a rich specimen of ornamental sculpture and architecture. On the east side of the fifteenth north pillar is the monument to the memory of the learned Bishop Home, author of an excellent “Introduction to the Study of the Bible.” In the space between the seventeenth and eighteenth pillars was the chapel dedicated to St. Anne, and in the next space was the seat occupied by Queen Elizabeth, when she attended divine service during her visit to this city. The monument to the late Bishop Bathurst now occupies the spot, a sitting statue sculptured in white marble. Not only for its intrinsic merits is this statue of great value, but also because it is the last finished work of Sir Francis Chantrey, who visited Norwich for the purpose of fixing it only a few days before his death. Opposite to this monument is the altar tomb of Sir William Boleyn, now despoiled of its brasses. Sir Thomas Browne tells us in his “Repertorium,” that, during the Commonwealth, “more that a hundred” brasses were reeved in the Cathedral alone,—a greater number than the whole county of Norfolk could now supply. Hence our readers may easily understand what an immense number of these interesting memorials must have been lost, independently of the number that have been partially despoiled by the removal of their canopies.

At the foot of the altar steps, in the middle of the chancel, is the tomb of Bishop Herbert de Losinga, erected by the Dean and Chapter, in 1682, in the place of one destroyed during the civil wars. It has been levelled with the pavement and presents a long Latin inscription from the pen of Dean Prideaux. The east windows of the clerestory were the gift of the Bishop, the Misses Morse, and the Dean and Chapter of the Cathedral, and were erected between 1840 and 1847. The lower one in the triforium is an obituary window to the memory of the late Canon Thurlow, placed there by his friends. This space had before been occupied by a window with a pointed arch, representing the Transfiguration. The window was removed to the south transept, and the arches of both windows have been restored.

The bishop’s throne, ascended by three steps, was originally placed at the east end of the church, behind the altar, and raised so high that before the partition was made between the altar and the entrance to Our Lady’s chapel, the bishop had an uninterrupted view from his throne directly in a line through the whole church. The custos, or master of the high altar, annually accounted for the offerings made there, which produced a large sum; and at the annual processions of the city and country clergy, on the feasts of the Holy Trinity and St. Paul, something considerable was realized.

The stone roof of the south transept, as well as that of the north, was raised by Bishop Nykke, about 1501. At the same time, probably, the old Norman arch leading into the chancel aisle was filled with the rich and numerous mullions and tracery, which characterise the last period of pointed architecture. The adjoining aisle leads to the chapel of our Lady the Less, otherwise called Bawchyn’s Chapel, having been dedicated to the Virgin and all the Saints, by William de Bawchyn, about the middle of the fourteenth century. The founder is buried in an arched vault under the chapel. This chapel is now used as the Consistory Court. Adjoining is St. Luke’s Chapel, sometimes used as the parish church of St. Mary in the Marsh, that church having been demolished. Strictly speaking, the circular part only is the chapel dedicated to St. Luke, but the adjoining aisle, as far as the most eastward point, is now enclosed and fitted up for the use of the parish. It is part of Bishop Herbert’s original foundation. The font was brought from the parish church; it is richly carved with designs of the seven sacraments, &c. Passing round at the back of the altar we come to the Jesus Chapel.

The north transept is similar to the south. From the east wall of it there was a doorway leading to a chapel, said to be the ancient Vestiary. The arch has been filled up, and the entrance is from a small door on the outside. Over the exterior of the door leading to the Bishop’s palace is a niche, containing a figure, said to represent Bishop Herbert, one of the few specimens extant of a Norman statue.

_The Exterior_.

THE exterior of the Cathedral is not very imposing. The west front was the work of Bishop Alnwick, in the reign of Henry VI. It is divided into three compartments, forming the termination of the nave and the aisles. The central division presents the grand entrance doorway, and a large central window filled with coloured glass, which we have already described. It rises into a gable, formerly pierced with a small light, now a niche, flanked by two turrets with spirelets and round-headed single panels, and surmounted by a cross. The doorway is formed by a bold deep-pointed arch, and is much enriched in the spandrels and side fasciæ with mouldings, niches, pedestals, statues, and other decorations. The central window is divided, both horizontally and vertically, into three leading compartments, and subdivided by small mullions; and has good decorations of perpendicular character. Each of the two lateral divisions of the west front exhibits pure Norman work, and is of three stories; the first pierced with the doorway; the second pierced with four windows separated only by small columns; the third displaying three blank arches, and flanked with a small staircase turret. At each side of the great window, and at the extremities of the side divisions, are Norman turrets, lately restored and substituted for very debased cupolas. Engravings are extant representing this front with high and slender pinnacles where the Norman turrets now stand.

The north and south elevations of the nave show a three-storied aisle; and a clerestory and triforium, with an embattled parapet in each, exhibit a great height, and tiers of blank arches or arcades with some later perpendicular windows. On the exterior of the nave will be observed many traces of alterations in times long subsequent to the original building. The lowest tiers of windows are of comparatively modern insertion, and intersect the string course of a billet moulding, all round the exterior of the edifice. Next above is the arcade of blank arches, with semicircular mouldings, having regular bases and capitals, and continuing round the whole structure. Above these was the tier of original windows now closed up, but surmounted by windows of the sixteenth century. The exterior of the side aisles is here terminated by a plain embattled parapet of the same date as the windows before mentioned. The windows of the clerestory are, however, Norman, and have blank arches on each side, and continue the same all round the upper part of the nave and transept. They are surmounted by a parapet similar to that of the side aisles. The exterior of the south transept has been lately restored, and various old houses that blocked up the entrance have been cleared away.

The tower is grandly Norman in four stages, each adorned with arcades, columns, and tracery mouldings. It has, at the corners, square turrets with their angles cut off, and is surmounted by decorated battlements and crocketted pinnacles. The spire is decorated English octangular, elegantly proportioned, enriched with bands, and boldly crocketted in ribs running up its angles. It terminates in a handsome finial, and is the loftiest in England except that of Salisbury. The base of the spire is supported by projecting buttresses at each angle, terminating in a small pinnacle.

THE CLOISTERS.

The Cloisters, which are entered by a tasteful modern door on the south side of the nave, form one of the most beautiful quadrangles in England. They comprise a square of about 174 feet, and are 12 feet wide. They were commenced by Bishop Walpole about 1297, but were not completed by succeeding prelates till 1430. The style of architecture is the decorated, with traces of the perpendicular. The eastern part is the most ancient, and a progressive change may be observed in the tracery of the windows, commencing at the north-east corner, continuing through the south and the west, and terminating with the north sides. The roof is much admired for its exquisitely beautiful groining, and its bold yet elegant bosses, with their sculptured subjects and tasteful foliage. The doorway leading from the eastern aisle of the cloisters to the nave is deserving especial notice, being a pointed arch with four columns on each side, having archwolt mouldings, in front of which are seven canopied niches, with richly-sculptured crockets containing figures. Above the door, at the south-west corner, are carved figures of “The Temptation of our First Parents.” In the first two arches on the west side of the door are two lavatories, where the monks used to wash their hands before going into the refectory or common eating hall. Over each of these are three niches, where images formerly stood. The cloisters are surpassed by none in beauty of architecture and solemnity of effect. They branch off from the south transept, and enclose a square court or area. There are eleven noble windows or arched openings on the western side, twelve on the east, eleven on the north, and eleven on the south. All these windows are divided into three lights by two columns, and are decorated with a variety of beautiful tracery. They are of decorated architecture, except eight on the north side, which have perpendicular tracery in decorated arches. The upper portion of the tracery of all the windows appears to have been once filled with stained glass.

The pavement of the north side of the cloisters was torn up in the great rebellion, and relaid by William Burleigh, Esq. In this alley Queen Elizabeth dined in public when she visited Norwich in 1578. In memory thereof, her Majesty’s arms and those of the nobility who attended her were painted on the wall of the church, and properly blazoned with supporters, etc., but they were entirely effaced a century ago.

The dormitory of the monks adjoined the cloisters on the south. At a short distance from the cloisters are the only remains of the Priory founded by Bishop Herbert, consisting of three massive clustered columns, the capitals of which are curiously carved.

THE BISHOP’S PALACE.

The Bishop’s Palace stands on the north side of the Cathedral Church, to which there was in former times a passage from the door of the north transept, arched over with stone similar to the cloisters. The original palace was founded by Bishop Herbert, but has undergone so many repairs and alterations, that but little of the first building remains, and that part adjoins a new structure, in a similar style of architecture. In the garden there is a fine ruin, said to be remains of the grand entrance into the great hall, which reached to the site of the present episcopal chapel, and was 110 feet long, and 60 broad. This chapel was restored in 1662, and in it are monuments of Bishops Reynolds and Sparrow. The entrance to the episcopal residence is from St. Martin’s Plain, by the palace gate, built by Bishop Alnwyck about 1430. It has a large pointed arch of several mouldings, and the spandrels are filled with tracery; but it has suffered materially from injudicious repairs. Over the arch is a series of pannelled compartments with the letter M crowned. On the west side is a small door, on which, amongst other ornaments, are a heart and mitre, the supposed rebus of Bishop Lyhart.

THE CATHEDRAL PRECINCTS.

The Cathedral Precincts include the Upper and Lower Close, and a large portion of garden ground, with good houses on the south side. The Upper Close was formerly used as a play ground to the Grammar School; it is now enclosed with palisades. At the south-east corner is the Audit Room, which contains the library of the Dean and Chapter. The Lower Close was enclosed by Dean Lloyd, in 1782, and converted into a garden. At the extremity of the Lower Close, near the edge of the river, still stands a double arch of black flint, which is considered the roughest bit of picturesque in Norwich, and has been frequently sketched. It was formerly the Water-gate to the precincts, and is now known as “Pull’s Ferry.”

THE FREE GRAMMAR SCHOOL.

[Picture: The Free Grammar School]

The Free Grammar School, near the west end of the Cathedral, was founded by Bishop Salmon, in 1325, and annexed to a small Collegiate Chantry. At the dissolution of this college, the Corporation, by their Hospital Charter, were required to find a master and usher, and to remunerate them out of the ample revenues assigned to them by that charter. This trust was transferred, in 1836, from the Corporation to the Charity Trustees. There are generally a little more than a hundred pupils at the school. The celebrated Dr. Valpy was once the head-master; and in addition to many eminent scholars, the celebrated “Norfolk hero,” Lord Nelson; Sir James Brooke, the Rajah of Sarawak; and other noted characters, were educated here. Opposite the school is a colossal marble statue of Nelson. It was executed by Mr. Milne, of London, and has been highly commended as a work of art. Of this school, and also of the Commercial School, which is under the same trust, we shall have more to say in subsequent pages.

The Gateways to the Cathedral on the west side are deserving of notice.

THE ERPINGHAM GATE

is situated directly before the west front of the Cathedral, and is in an excellent state of preservation. It was built in 1428 by Sir Thomas Erpingham, (who lies buried in the choir of the Cathedral) as a penance for having espoused the cause of Wickliffe. It consists of a lofty pointed arch, in the mouldings of which are a series of thirty-eight statues in canopied niches. The spandrels are highly decorated with tracery mouldings and shields, the whole being enclosed in a kind of square frame with semi-circular buttresses, each of which is divided into four compartments with statues, niches, pedestals, and shields. As a matter of some interest, it may here be mentioned that over against the front of this gate is a large block of buildings, enclosing what is commonly called Sampson and Hercules’ Court. The grotesque wood figures, designed to represent these personages, formerly supported the portico, but are now placed in the paved court. The one holds a club, and the other the jawbone of an ass. The house itself was formerly owned by Sir John Fastolf, and afterwards by the Countess of Lincoln; and in the time of Henry VII. by Elizabeth Duchess of Suffolk, who used it as a city house for herself and family. It is now in the occupation of Messrs. Pratt and Hancock, wholesale grocers and cheese factors, who have covered in the whole court.

THE ETHELBERT GATEWAY

leads to the south end of the Upper Close. It was built by the citizens as an atonement for the injuries done in a quarrel which they had with the monks in 1272. The chamber over the arch was formerly used as a chapel dedicated to St. Ethelbert, the church of that name having been destroyed during the riots. The west front has a modern pediment of stone tracery, inlaid with flint. Beneath is a series of blank niches with a statue in the centre. In the spandrels of the arch are figures, in basso relievo, of a man with a sword and round shield attacking a dragon. The east front consists of stone tracery and flint with painted windows.

THE VIEW FROM THE CASTLE HILL.

We shall now return to the Castle-hill Walk, which is favourable for a view of the whole city, with all its churches and towers. If we take our position on the eastern side we shall see the broad vale of the Yare, where the Romans came up in their galleys and landed on that side of the river, then very wide. We shall see also where the first street (King Street,) extends southward the whole length of the city, with tall chimnies of great breweries sending forth volumes of smoke. Northward the same street extends to an open space called Tombland; beyond which, Wensum Street and Magdalen Street lead in a straight line to Catton and the village of Sprowston. The circle of vision includes the Cathedral, the Grammar School, St. Helen’s Church, Mousehold Heath, Kett’s Castle, Lollards’ Pit, the hamlet of Thorpe, the churches of St. Peter per Mountergate, St. Julian, and St. Peter Southgate, in King Street. Walking round to the west side, we have before us the spacious Market Place, and the noble church of St. Peter Mancroft, with a mass of buildings. From the Market Place we see several lines of streets running in a direction from east to west; Bethel Street, leading to St. Giles’ Church, and St. Giles’ Street, in a straight line to Heigham. Here in the foreground, the Guildhall is a conspicuous object. More on the right we have London Street, Prince’s Street, St. Andrew’s Street, Pottergate Street, and St. Benedict’s Street, running in lines from east to west. Here, the chief objects are the churches of St. John’s Maddermarket and St. Gregory; and in the distance, St. Lawrence, St. Margaret’s, and St. Michael’s at Coslany. From the north side of the Castle walk we see Exchange Street, Post Office Street leading into St. Andrew’s, and St. George’s Street, Pitt Street, and St. Augustine’s, and St. Martin’s at Oak, all the lower parts of the town, full of close narrow streets, yards, and courts. The principal objects in view are St. Andrew’s Hall, the churches of St. Martin at Oak, St. Mary, St. Augustine, St. George’s Colegate, St. Saviour, St. Clement, St. Peter Hungate, St. Michael at Plea, St. Paul, St. Simon and Jude, St. Edmund, and St. George Tombland.

THE CATTLE MARKET.

The Cattle Market, on the south side of the hill, has been greatly extended, and presents the most extensive area for the purpose in England. On the east side whole blocks of old houses have been cleared away, and great additions made to the space for the display of horses, cattle, sheep, and pigs. The improvements cost the city over £50,000. Every Saturday the hill presents a busy and highly interesting scene, and a vast amount of business is transacted here in the space of a few hours. The area has recently been further enlarged by the demolition of some old houses at the corner of Golden Ball Street. A line of new houses has been built on the east side, ending with the handsome show rooms of Messrs. Holmes and Sons, the well-known Agricultural Machine Makers, who have won many prizes for their implements.

THE SHIREHALL.

The Shirehall, on the Castle Meadow, was erected from a plan by William Wilkins, Esq. It was commenced on September 9th, 1822, and opened September 27th, 1823, and is a poor imitation of the Tudor style of architecture. It stands on the north-east side of the Castle, and is a substantial brick edifice, possessing all the usual accommodations. It comprises Crown Court, Nisi Prius Court, and rooms for witnesses and others. The county assizes and sessions are held in these courts. Near the crown court there is a small room communicating, by a shaft, with the prison above, whence prisoners are brought down for trial. The grand Jury room is a large apartment, and the walls are adorned with fine portraits of the late Lord Wodehouse and the late Earl of Leicester, painted by Sir T. Lawrence. There is also a portrait of the late Henry Dover, Esq., for many years Chairman at Quarter Sessions.

THE GUILDHALL.

The Guildhall is a large antique building, chiefly of flint, at the north end of the Market Place. It was completed in 1413, when the windows of the Council Chamber were glazed chiefly with stained glass; but all these ornaments have disappeared, except in three east windows. The furniture of this room is of the time of Henry VIII., and the wood work is ornamented with the linen pattern. The room has been much improved of late years. The principal court is on the ground floor, where the city assizes and sessions are held. The Police Court is in a room above, opposite the Council Chamber. The Town Clerk and City Treasurer have offices in the building. The Police Station is on the ground floor of the east side.

The interior of the hall is decorated with portraits, some interesting trophies of the battle of St. Vincent, presented by Nelson, the city regalia, and the buskins of a famous dancer, who danced from London to Norwich in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. When that Queen visited the city in 1578, there was a magnificent banquet given in the Council Chamber, and a pageant devised for her amusement was exhibited. In one of the cells at the bottom of the building, the martyr Thomas Bilney was confined, and there tested his powers of endurance by holding his finger in the lighted flame of a candle, to prove his willingness to suffer his approaching doom. In 1660, the lower court at the west end, now used as an assize court, was set apart as a cloth hall, and the room above as a place for the sale of yarn. During the present century the hall has been much improved on the south side. New windows should be inserted on the north side.

ST. ANDREW’S HALL.

St. Andrew’s Hall stands in the centre of the city, in the parish of St. Andrew. It was originally the Church of the Convent of the Blackfriars, the building of which was begun about the year 1415, by Sir Thomas Erpingham, who died in 1428, before it was finished. It was completed by his son, Sir Robert Erpingham, who was rector of Bracon Ash, in Norfolk, a friar of the order of St. Dominic, and a member of this convent. This convent extended from St. Andrew’s Street to the river from south to north, and as far as Elm Hill on the east. The cloister was on the north side of the church, with a burial place in the middle. The convent kitchen was at the north-west corner. Between the nave and choir of the church there was a neat sexangular steeple, which had three large bells in it and a clock. It was built about 1462, and fell down on November 6th, 1712. A turret was afterwards erected in its place, in which a clock bell hung. At the dissolution of the monasteries in 1538, the citizens applied to Henry VIII., through the interest of the Duke of Norfolk, for a grant of the convent for the use of the city, and requested that he would allow them to make the church into “a large hall, for the mayor and his brethren, with all the citizens to repair unto at common assemblies,” to make a chapel of the choir, and to appropriate the rest of the building to other purposes. This was complied with, and the petition is dated June 25th, 1540. After this, the guilds of the several companies in the city, twenty in number, used to hear mass in the choir, and make their offerings in that place; and most of them held their feasts in the hall.

In 1544, Henry Fuller, Esq., being then mayor, kept the first mayor’s feast in grand style in the new hall. In 1561, the Earls of Northumberland and Huntingdon, the Lord Thomas Howard, and Lord Willoughby, with many other lords and knights, came to Norwich to visit the Duke of Norfolk, and they lodged at the Duke’s palace. At that very time the mayor’s feast was held; and William Mingay, then mayor, invited the noble lords and their ladies to the banquet. They accepted the invitation, and were entertained in princely style; and they expressed great satisfaction with their reception. After dinner, Mr. John Martin, a wealthy citizen, delivered the following characteristic speech:—

“Maister Mayor of Norwich, and it please your Worship, you have feasted us like a King. God bless the Queen’s Grace. We have fed plentifully; and now, whilom I can speak plain English, I heartily thank you Maister Mayor; and so do we all. Answer, Boys, Answer. Your Beer is pleasant & potent, and will soon catch us by the _caput_, and stop our manners: And so Huzza for the Queen’s Majesty’s Grace, and all her bonny-brow’d Dames of Honour. Huzza for Maister Mayor and our good Dame Mayoress. His noble grace, there he is, {53} God bless him, and all this jolly company. To all our friends round county, who have a penny in their purse, and an English heart in their bodies, to keep out Spanish Dons, and Papists with their faggots to burn our whiskers. Shove it about, twirl your cap cases, handle your jugs, and Huzza for Maister Mayor, and his brethren, their Worships.”

On many subsequent occasions, the hall was the scene of grand civic festivities, to which we shall have to allude hereafter.

The Triennial Musical Festivals are held here. And, formerly, the assizes for the city; the nomination of candidates to represent the city in Parliament; and the mayor’s feasts, which were generally given on the day when he was sworn into office, were also all held in this spacious building; and on some festive occasions, nearly 1000 ladies and gentlemen have dined here, including most of the principal families of the city. Several times between 1650 and 1700 the hall was proclaimed “a public exchange for the despatch of business between merchants and tradesmen.” The last time was in 1725, when it was used only one year. It was opened in October, 1796, as a corn exchange and continued to be used as such every Saturday till 1828. Under the superintendance of Mr. Barry, the City Surveyor, a complete restoration of the hall was effected in 1863.

The exterior of the hall, as seen from the plain, presents an imposing appearance, chiefly owing to the fine effect of its long range of clerestory windows, of which there are fourteen on each side. The five westernmost windows on the south side are each of three lights, of decorated character, being of earlier date than any of the other windows. The sixth or easternmost window is of four lights, perpendicular in style. On the north side are six beautiful perpendicular windows of four lights, probably the most elegant in style in the eastern counties. The principal entrance is through the new porch on the south-west, which is similar in style to the original building. A large entrance door is provided in the centre of the west front, and above this there is a large and beautiful five-light window, producing a fine effect in the interior of the hall. The interior consists of a nave, 124 feet by 32 feet; and north and south aisles, 124 feet by 16 feet, each being divided from the nave by six lofty and handsomely-moulded stone columns, supporting seven elegant stone arches. Above these arches are the clerestory windows, fourteen on each side, perpendicular in style, and somewhat later in character than the other windows. The roof, which is of chestnut, is of hammer-beam construction, with moulded spandrel brackets and circular shafts. From the hammer-beams spring moulded arch ribs. The rafters, which were originally visible, are plastered on the underside, giving the effect of panelling; the ground-work being intense blue with gilded stars. The hollows in the whole of the timber are coloured vermillion, and gilded pateræ are inserted within these hollows at stated distances. The circular ribs are finished with a bead on the underside, which is decorated by spiral bands, alternately drab and oak colours. The intersection of the main timbers at the apex of the roof is distinguished by carved bosses, richly gilt. The aisle roofs are similarly decorated, but without the gilded pateræ. At the east end the orchestra is placed within a recess, under a fine deeply-moulded stone arch, of large size.

The nave and aisles are lighted at night by nine polished brass coronæ, of characteristic design, pendant from the centres of the arched ribs of the roof. When lighted up at night, during the Choral Society and Festival Concerts, the interior presents a very brilliant appearance. Amongst the principal attractions of the hall are the portraits of city worthies and some historical paintings. A fine work of art, Queen Eleonora sucking the poison from her husband’s wound; and another, the Death of Lady Jane Grey, by Martin, a native of this city; may be seen at the west end. Large sums have been offered for them. The two oldest portraits in the hall are Queen Anne and Prince George of Denmark. A fine portrait of Admiral Lord Nelson, painted by Sir William Beechey, was the last for which the illustrious “Norfolk Hero” sat after his return to England in 1801. It is allowed to be an admirable likeness. He is standing on the quarter deck of a man of war; the tri-coloured flag of France is lying at his feet; and the flag of Spain lies on a cannon; leaning against which is the sword of the Spanish Admiral, Don Xavier Winthysen, surrendered to him on February 14th, 1797. On the hero’s hat is the magnificent diamond Aigrette, or Plume of Triumph, and under it the rich pelisse of sable fur, both of which were presented to him by the Grand Seigneur. He is decorated with the red riband as Knight of the Bath, and with the blue riband and medal suspended therefrom, which are the Insignia of the Order of St. Ferdinand. On his breast are stars of the most honourable Order of the Bath, of the Grand Cross, of the Order of St. Ferdinand, and of the Imperial Order of the Crescent Suspended from his neck by a riband, hang two gold chains, and another is affixed to his button hole on the right side, all of which had been presented to him, at various times, for his unparalleled naval victories.

“Such honours England to her hero paid, And peaceful sleeps the mighty Nelson’s shade.”

This superb painting may be seen at the west end of the hall on the north side. Gainsborough painted the portrait of Sir Harbord Harbord, afterwards Lord Suffield, considered one of the best in the hall. Amongst the other portraits in the building are some painted by Gainsborough, Beechey, Heins, Smith, Bardwell, Stoppelaer, Adolphe, Opie, Clover, Hoppner, Lawrence, and Thompson. The following is a list in chronological order, with names of the painters.

_Name_. _Artist_. _Date of Picture_. Queen Anne 1705 Prince George 1705 Benjamin Nuthall Mayor Heins 1721 Robert Marsh Mayor Heins 1731 Francis Arnam Mayor Heins 1732 Timothy Balderstone Mayor Heins 1736 Thomas Vere, M.P. Mayor Heins 1736 Thomas Harwood Mayor Heins 1737 Robert Harvey Mayor Smith 1738 William Clarke Mayor Heins 1740 Hon. Horace Heins 1741 Walpole, M. P. William Wiggett Mayor Heins 1743 Robert Earl of Heins 1743 Orford John Lord Hobart Heins 1743 Simeon Waller Mayor Heins 1746 William Crowe Mayor Bardwell 1746 Thomas Harvey Mayor Heins 1749 Thomas Hurnard Mayor Heins 1752 John Press Mayor Bardwell 1753 John Gay Mayor Bardwell 1755 Peter Columbine Mayor Stoppelaer 1755 Jeremiah Ives, Sen. Mayor Stoppelaer 1756 Nockold Thompson Mayor Heins 1756 John Goodman Mayor Bardwell 1757 Robert Rogers Mayor Bardwell 1758 John Spurrell Mayor Smith 1758 Sir Thomas Mayor Bardwell 1761 Churchman, Knt. Jeremiah Harcourt Mayor Bardwell 1762 Benjamin Hancock Mayor Adolphe 1764 John Dersley Mayor Bardwell 1764 James Poole Mayor Bardwell 1765 Thomas Starling Mayor Williams 1767 Jeremiah Ives, Jun. Mayor Catton 1781 Sir Harbord Gainsborough 1783 Harbord, Bt., M.P. Robert Partridge Mayor Beechey 1784 Edward and Eleonora Martin 1787 Lady Jane Grey Martin 1787 John Patteson Mayor Beechey 1797 John Harvey Mayor Opie 1797 John Herring Mayor Opie 1799 Horatio Lord Nelson Beechey 1801 Rt. Hon. Henry Opie 1802 Hobart, M.P. Rt. Hon. W. Hoppner 1803 Windham, M.P. Charles Harvey, Recorder Lawrence 1804 M.P. Thomas Back Mayor Glover 1809 Barnabas Leman Mayor Glover 1813 William Smith, M.P. Thompson 1814 Sir J. P. Yallop Mayor Clint 1815 William Hankes Mayor Clint 1816 Crisp Brown Mayor Glover 1817 Robert Hawkes Mayor Haydon 1822 J. S. Patteson, Mayor Beechey 1823 Jun. Henry Francis Mayor Lane 1824 William Simpson Town Clerk Phillips 1826 Charles Turner Mayor Briggs 1835 T. O. Springfield Mayor Westcott 1852 Sir Samuel Bignold, Mayor J. P. Knight 1853 Knt. Rt. Hon. Lord J. P. Knight 1868 Stafford

And over the west window is festooned the Flag of France taken by Lord Nelson from the ship _Genereux_ in 1800.

THE CORN EXCHANGE.

The Corn Exchange is situated in Exchange Street, which commences at the north end of the Market Place. The original building, which was erected in 1828, at a cost of £6000, being found too small, was taken down in 1861, and the present spacious edifice was built by a company at a cost of £16,000, including the site. The exterior is massive in its effect. The key stone of the large window has a carved head of Ceres. The interior is well lighted from the roof, the superficial area of the glass being equal to the area of the hall. The inside measurement is 125 feet by 81 feet. The height from the floor is 66 feet. At the east end are portraits of John Culley, Esq., the originator of the Exchange, and of the late Earl of Leicester, who was justly regarded as the greatest farmer in Norfolk. A large amount of business is transacted here every Saturday afternoon.

THE NORWICH PUBLIC LIBRARY.

The Norwich Public Library is located in a spacious room built for the purpose at the end of an avenue opposite the Guildhall. The first meeting of subscribers was held there on September 7th, 1837. The library contains about 30,000 volumes, including many old books of divinity and archæology. The yearly subscription is one guinea paid by shareholders, and 26s. paid by others; and subscribers are entitled to borrow two sets of books at a time. The library is open from 10 a.m. till 9 p.m. Besides the large room which contains the books, there are smaller rooms for the convenience of readers. Mr. Langton is the librarian.

THE NORFOLK AND NORWICH MUSEUM

is a fine building, erected in 1839, in Broad Street, St. Andrew’s. It contains very valuable collections in geology, ethnology, and entomology, but chiefly in ornithology. The specimens in ornithology comprise nearly all the varieties of the raptores or birds of prey, mostly supplied by J. H. Gurney, Esq. A large new room in the adjoining building is filled with specimens of British birds, also contributed by J. H. Gurney, Esq., whose portrait adorns the room. The fossil remains of mammalia, for the most part discovered in Norfolk, are extremely interesting. Two other spacious rooms have just been added to the Museum, one of which is filled with Elephantine Remains, contributed by the Rev. Jno. Gunn; and the botanical department has been enriched by the late J. D. Salmon’s well-arranged specimens, bequeathed by him to this institution, which is open free on Mondays and Saturdays.

THE NORFOLK AND NORWICH LITERARY INSTITUTION

occupies the upper part of the same building as the Museum, and a large room in the adjoining one. It was established in 1822, and contains more than 20,000 well-selected volumes in the various departments of literature. It is supported by several hundred subscribers who pay two guineas yearly, and the shareholders pay a guinea and a half yearly. Every member has the privilege of borrowing two books, and a pamphlet and review at the same time. A greater number is allowed to country members, as well as a longer time for reading. The rooms are open from 10 a.m. till 9 p.m. Mr. F. Quinton is the librarian.

THE FREE LIBRARY.

This is a large building at the corner of St. Andrew’s Broad Street; erected in 1856, and opened in 1857, under the Free Libraries and Museum Act, by the Corporation, at a cost of £10,000. It includes large rooms for the Museum and the Free Library, the Literary Institution, and the School of Art. The Free Library, in the lower room, contains about 4,000 volumes, and the Old Collection called the City Library. The middle room above is fitted up as a lecture hall. The School of Art is located at the top of the building, where rooms are furnished for about 200 pupils, who receive instruction in drawing, designing, and decorative art. There is a committee of management for the Free Library, another for the Museum, and another for the School of Art. Mr. Harper is the librarian.

THE THEATRE ROYAL

is situate at a short distance from the Market Place, in Theatre Street. It is a very plain building, erected in 1826, but the interior is quite commodious enough for the limited number of patrons which Norwich furnishes to the drama.

THE POST OFFICE

is a large, but by no means handsome building; situate in Post Office Street, near the Market Place. There are two deliveries from London daily, and mails daily to all parts of the kingdom.

THE PARISHES AND PARISH CHURCHES.

Norwich appears to have taken the lead in the erection of religious edifices. At a very early period, before the reign of Edward the Confessor, the city contained 25 churches, and in the eleventh century, 55 existed in or near the town. After the conquest, 43 chapels were in the patronage of the burgesses, most of which were afterwards made parochial. In the reign of Edward III., 58 parish churches and chapels were within the walls, besides 19 monastic institutions and cells, anchorages, &c. Norwich still contains a greater number of churches and parishes than any other city in England except London. Many of the present churches are excellent specimens of ancient architecture. Several of them are built of squared flints. Besides the cathedral there are three undoubted specimens of the Norman style, and there are also many examples of the decorated or florid which succeeded the lancet style, of the transition style, and of the perpendicular. This later perpendicular style, which prevailed during the 15th and 16th centuries, is the chief characteristic of the city churches. The best examples of this style are the churches of St. Peter Mancroft, St. Andrew, St. Stephen, St. Giles, and St. John Maddermarket; also St. Andrew’s Hall. Of all these churches complete restorations have been lately effected. The original designs have been faithfully adhered to by the architects and contractors, which is the highest praise that can be awarded them. In this age we can only restore or rebuild; we cannot invent new orders of architecture. All our restorations take us back to the middle ages, and the spirit of those ages seems to be again revived in our parish churches.

We shall now proceed to describe the parishes and parish churches, in four districts, west, east, north, and south.

WESTERN DISTRICT.

The western district is the most prominent, comprising the Market Place, the parishes of St. Peter at Mancroft, St. Giles, St. Gregory, St. John’s Maddermarket, St. Andrew, St. Margaret, St. Benedict, St. Swithin, and St. Lawrence. Nearly all the public buildings are situated in this part of the town—the Guildhall, the Corn Hall, the Post Office, the Museum, the Free Library and School of Art, the Public Library, and the Literary Institution. The Market Place is about 200 yards in length, and 110 in breadth, but part of that area is occupied by the Guildhall, and St. Peter’s church. A handsome bronze statue of the Duke of Wellington, 8 ft 6 in. high, was erected, at a cost of £1000, in the middle of the Market Place in 1854. This statue is placed on a granite pedestal, surrounded by a low railing with lamps at the corners. The new Fish Market is on the western side of the Market Place. It consists of two rows of shops with an open space between, and was built, a few years ago, at a cost of £6000. On Saturdays the Market Place presents a highly animated scene, and is well supplied with provisions of every kind. It is generally crowded from morning till night by the citizens, and by the vendors of the produce of the field, the garden, or the dairy. It is surrounded by handsome shops, warehouses, hotels, and taverns.

_St. Peter of Mancroft_.

This parish was, at the beginning of the Confessor’s reign, an open field, that part of it which is now the Market Place, being the great croft of the Castle or Magna Crofta. Towards the end of the Confessor’s reign it began to be built over and inhabited; and at the survey of 1086, the whole field was owned and held by Ralf de Guader, Earl of Norfolk, in right of his castle, who granted it to the King in Common to make a new burgh between them, which burgh contained the entire parishes of St. Peter of Mancroft and St. Giles. The Earl Ralf founded the church of St. Peter and St. Paul at Mancroft, and gave it to his chaplains. On his forfeiture, Robert Blund, the Sheriff, received an ounce of gold, yearly, from the chaplains; and on Godric’s becoming sheriff, the Conqueror gave it to Wala his chaplain, at which time it was worth £3 per annum.

Sir Peter Read, though not certainly known to be a native of this city, yet deserves to be mentioned here, because he was buried in St. Peter’s Church, having this inscription on his monument:—

“Hereunder lieth the corps of Peter Read, Esq., who hath worthily served not only his prince and country, but also the Emperor Charles the Fifth, both at his Conquest of Barbary, and his siege of Tunis, as also in other places, who had given him, by the said Emperor, the Order of Barbary, who died on the 29th December, in the year of our Lord God 1566.”

If it be demanded why the title of “knight” was not put on his tomb, but only “esquire,” it may be answered that he was knighted by the Emperor Charles V., and Queen Elizabeth would suffer no foreign honour to be worn by her subjects in her dominions, saying, “Her sheep should be known by her mark only.” The knight lies buried in the east corner of the north aisle of this church. His effigy in complete armour is on a brass plate on the stone. He gave £4 4_s._ yearly from the rental of houses in St. Giles’, that the great bell of St. Peter’s Mancroft Church should ring at four o’clock every morning and eight in the evening for the benefit of travellers.

The following epitaph in this church is a specimen of good versification for the time in which it was written, 1616:—

“Here Richard Anguishe sleepes for whom alyve Norwich and Cambridge lately seemed to strive; Both called him son as seemed well they might; Both challenged in his life an equal right: Norwich gave birth and taught him well to speake The mother English, Latin phrase, and Greeke; Cambridge with arts adorned his ripening age Degress and judgment in the sacred page; Yet Norwich gains the vantage of the strife, Whiles there he ended where began his life.

September XXIII. Ao Dni. 1616.”

The church is a large handsome cruciform structure of freestone mixed with flint, begun in 1430 and finished in 1455. It is a good example of the perpendicular style, and is the finest parish church in the city. It is 212 feet in length, and 70 feet in breadth, with a noble tower 98 feet high, covered with paneling, and containing an excellent peal of 12 bells, a clock, and chimes. The bells weigh 183 cwt. 2 qrs. 14 lbs., and were exchanged for an old peal of ten in 1775, at a cost of £800 raised by public subscription.

The clustered pillars supporting the roof, with the arches surmounting them, are lofty and slender, and the windows are large and numerous, so that the whole interior has a light and airy appearance. The roof of the nave is of fine open timber work, with a sort of wooden vault over each window, like a stone roof. The Clerestory has seventeen fine windows on each side, with short transoms in the heads, and good tracery. The vaulting shafts are brought down to the bottom of the clerestory windows, and have niches under them. There is a chancel or small transept on each side of the nave. The font stands under a perpendicular canopy, supported by pillars, and forming a baptistry on a raised platform, with room to walk round the font. The east window is filled with beautiful stained glass, mostly ancient. There are some fine paintings in the vestry. The church was restored, the old pews were replaced by open oak benches, and a new pulpit, reading desk, and altar rail, handsomely carved, were purchased in 1851. During the alterations, a vault four or five feet deep was discovered under the stalls of the choir. The outer wall of this vault supported the screen dividing the choir from the nave and aisles, and contained a range of about a dozen earthen jars, placed on their sides with their mouths open to the vault. The use of these jars has never been ascertained. The benefice is a perpetual curacy certified at £10, and now valued at £87. It was augmented in 1746 with £200 given by the Rev. J. Francis, with £100 of royal bounty from 1742 to 1810, and with £400 subscribed by the minister and parishioners in 1818. The Rev. C. Turner, M.A., is incumbent.

_St. Giles_.

St. Giles’ Street, west of the Market Place, is one of the best built in the city, and leads to the small parish of St. Giles. The church, near the top of the street, was founded in the reign of William I. by Elwyn the priest, who gave it to the monks of Norwich. Consequently it is now in the patronage of the Dean and Chapter. It is frequently called “St. Giles on the Hill” in ancient records. It is a fine structure in the perpendicular style, and is one of the handsomest old churches in the city. It was wholly rebuilt in the reign of Richard I., but after 1581 the old chancel was demolished. A new chancel has been recently built, and the church completely restored. The nave is of five bays, and has a good open timber roof, supported by angels bearing shields, emblazoned with the arms of England, France, and Castile. The clerestory windows have been modernised. The south porch has a fine groined vault with fan tracery, and is surmounted by a parvise, and a rich parapet and cornice. The nave and aisles are 81 feet long, divided by slender pillars, and are lighted by large and elegant windows. The tower is 120 feet high, and contains a clock and eight bells. The church estate consists of small tenements given by Thomas Parker in 1534. The perpetual curacy, valued at £70, was augmented from 1744 to 1791 with £1000 of Queen Anne’s bounty. The Rev. W. Nottidge Ripley, M.A., is the incumbent.

Passing from the Market Place to Pottergate Street we come to the parish of

_St. Gregory_.

The church is a fine structure of great antiquity, in the perpendicular style. The chancel was rebuilt in 1325, and the whole pile has received many modern repairs. The nave and aisles, with the two chapels at the east end, were new leaded in 1537. In 1597, a timber spire covered with lead was erected on the tower, and was the only spire in Norwich, except that of the Cathedral, but being unsafe, it was taken down. The tower contains a clock and six bells, the latter given by the parishioners in 1818. The tower arch is very lofty, and across it is the original stone gallery for the singers, with groined vaults above and beneath, the lower part forming a western porch opening into the north and south porches, which are also groined. There are four well moulded arches on each side of the nave, with clustered shafts having embattled caps. The rood stair turret remains on the north side of the edifice. The clerestory windows have decorated tracery, and the windows of the aisles are of a mixed character under arches recessed in the walls. In 1861, Mr. Wm. Smith, and the incumbent collected £800 for the purpose of restoring the church and reseating it in oak. The perpetual curacy was certified at £3, and is now valued at £120. It was augmented from 1747 to 1812 with £1400 of royal bounty. The Dean and Chapter are patrons. The present incumbent is the Rev. J. Wortley.

_St. John’s Maddermarket_.

is a very populous parish near the Market Place, between Pottergate Street and Charing Cross. The church is a large handsome edifice in the perpendicular style, consisting of a nave, two aisles, two porches, and a fine tower, under which is an arched rood, and on the top are four figures at the angles. The fine decorated east window is of five lights with flowing tracery. The north porch has a richly-groined vault, and its outer doorway is deeply recessed. The roofs of the chapel of All Saints at the east end of the north aisle, and of St. Mary the Virgin in the south aisle, are boarded under and painted with angels holding books and scrolls, with sentences from the Te Deum, the Angelical Salutation, &c. The church has been completely restored recently at a cost of £1200. Lady Margaret, Duchess of Norfolk, (second wife of the Duke, who was beheaded in Elizabeth’s reign,) died at the Duke’s Palace, in this parish, in 1563, and was interred with great pomp on the north side of the choir, where a mural monument was erected to her memory in 1791 by Lord John Howard of Waldon. The benefice is a discharged rectory, valued in K. B. at £7 10s. 2d., and now at £110. It was augmented from 1714 to 1814 with £1800 of royal bounty. It is in the patronage of New College, Oxford, to which it was granted by Henry VI. The Rev. G. F. Price is the present incumbent.

_St. Andrew_.

The parish of St. Andrew is extensive, and populous, and improvements have been made in some of the streets, where large premises have been built. The church in Broad Street, to which it gives its name, is a fine large perpendicular structure, consisting of nave, chancel, aisles, clerestory, and tower. The latter, which has seven bells and a clock, was rebuilt in 1478, and the nave and chancel were rebuilt in 1606. The window at the east end is filled with stained glass. There are sedilia for three priests in the chancel, and several old stalls with “misereres.” The interior contains many ancient as well as modern monuments and inscriptions. The whole of the interior has been recently restored and renovated, and furnished with open benches instead of the old pews. The gallery, which obscured the noble tower arch, was removed in 1863, and the fine screen work, so long hidden, brought to light. There is no chancel arch, but the rood stair turret still remains on the south side; and under the east window, externally, are some good niches and panels. A beautiful carved stone reredos was erected in 1850 by subscription in memory of the late Rev. James Brown, B.D., who was the esteemed incumbent of this parish from 1807 to 1856. The benefice is a perpetual curacy valued in 1831 at £90, and augmented from 1756 to 1786 with £800 of Queen Anne’s bounty, and with a grant of £600 in 1815. The church estate is let in long leases, for £22 16s. yearly. The parishioners are the patrons. The Rev. A. C. Copeman, M.A., incumbent. In this parish, on St. Andrew’s Hill, stood one of the oldest churches in this city, dedicated to St. Christopher. It was destroyed by fire in the reign of Henry VIII. Remains of old vaults may be traced in a line of vaults and crypts under the City Arms Tavern, and on the premises of Mr. Harman, Wine and Spirit Merchant, higher up the street on the east side.

The Old Bridewell, in this parish, was built by Bartholomew Appleyard about the year 1370. The north wall is 79 feet in length and 27 feet in height, and is considered one of the greatest curiosities of the kind in England. The flints are squared to such a nicety, that the edge of a knife can scarcely be put between them. Most of them are about three inches square. The surface is very smooth, and no brickwork can appear more regular. The building was nearly destroyed by fire on October 22nd, 1751, and again much damaged by fire on July 28th, 1753, but this curious wall sustained little injury. Mr. Talman says, “That the Jews introduced the art of squaring flints;” and Dr. Cromwell Mortimer, Secretary to the Royal Society, states that the gate of the Austin Friars at Canterbury, that of St. John’s Abbey at Colchester, and the gate near the Whitehall, Westminster, are in the same taste, but the platform on the top of the Royal Observatory at Paris, built in 1667, which is paved with flint in this manner, is an instance in proof that the French had recovered this art exemplified in the Old Bridewell here. William Appleyard, son of the builder, the first mayor of Norwich, occupied this house in 1403. After passing through many hands, it became the property of the late Mr. Newbegin, who converted it into a tobacco factory. His son, Mr. J. Newbegin, now holds the property, and has lately built a handsome wholesale tobacco warehouse on the premises next to the alley.

In Broad Street, St. Andrews, stood the ancient church of St. Crucis. It was dedicated to the honour of the Holy Cross, and was erected before the year 1272. It was desecrated in 1551, and the parish united to St. John’s Maddermarket.

St. Lawrence.

St. Lawrence Church stands upon the very spot to which the arm of the sea rose in former times, when Norwich was merely a fishing town, and this spot was the quay or landing place for all herrings brought into the city. After the water had receded, the church was founded on the same site in the reign of Edward the Confessor, in the 10th century. In 1460, the original building was taken down, and the present one was erected twelve years afterwards. It consists of a nave, chancel, aisles, north and south porches, clerestory, and a tower 112 feet high, with six bells. The roof of the church is supported by clustered columns, the inside is light and regular, and the windows are large and well filled with tracery. They were formerly decorated with stained glass, all of which was demolished by the Puritans in 1643. There is here an ancient octangular font, ornamented with shields, angels, &c. In the spandrels of an arched door, in the western side of the church, are two ancient carvings, one representing the martyrdom of St. Lawrence broiling on a gridiron, and the other a number of Danish soldiers shooting arrows into the body of King Edmund, whose head is seen lying in a thicket, as described in the old legend. The Rev. E. A. Hillyard is the present incumbent.

_St. Swithin_.

St. Swithin’s Church, situated between upper and lower Westwick Street, is a neat building, containing a nave, two aisles, and tower. One side of the nave is supported by pointed arches on columns, and the other by round arches and square piers. The Chapel of St. Mary, at the east end of the north aisle, had an altar, and the guild of the Holy Virgin, called the tanner’s guild, was kept there. The rectory was anciently in the donation of the See of Norwich, and in the year 1200 was annexed to the deanery of Norwich, as were the churches of St. Simon and Jude, and Corstweyt, and the deanery of Taverham, and so held till 1329, when the deaneries were separated from the churches which were then perpetually united. But notwithstanding this union, in 1546 Bishop Rugge separated the advowson from the bishopric, and granted it to William Farrar and others. In 1608, John Ward was patron, who suffering a lapse, was by the bishop collated to it; and entry being made that the bishop had collated him in full right, it has ever since been supposed to be in the bishop’s patronage, and held by sequestration or license at the bishop’s nomination. During the cleaning of this Church in 1834, an ancient portrait of Edward the Confessor, painted on a panel, was found beneath one of the seats, where it is supposed to have been placed during the civil wars. The altar piece contains portraits of Moses and Aaron, and the church has an ancient font. The rectory, valued in K. B. at £6 3s. 4d., has been augmented, and is still in the patronage of the bishop.

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The New Mills, as to a principal part of them, are in this parish. Formerly all the city bakers were obliged to grind here, and the miller, as a public servant, had a livery and badge given him every year. The mills are still the property of the city, and in 1706 were let, with the baker’s grant thereto belonging, for the term of 87 years, at the yearly rent of £200, but reduced in 1708 to £180. The Mills are now let to Mr. Wells, and produce a large quantity of flour weekly. Steam mills are now also at work in this locality, in the occupation of Messrs. Barber and Sons, who are also proprietors of Hellesdon Mills.

_St. Margaret_.

St. Margaret’s Church, in Westwick Street, has a square tower with a spacious nave, chancel, and south aisle. It is a plain building of the perpendicular period. The rood stair turret remains on the north side of the church, and on the south side of the altar is a small pedestal on which the bell that was rung at mass stood in former times. The rectory is valued at £80. The bishop is the patron, and the Rev. J. W. Cobb is the rector. The church which has been for some time disused, being in a very ruinous condition, has just been restored.

_St. Benedict_.

St. Benedict’s Church, at the end of the street to which it gives its name, is a small building with nave, chancel, north aisle, and round tower. The tower contains three bells, and in the chancel is a piscina. The church was repaired and re-roofed a few years since, at a cost of £150. The living is a perpetual curacy valued at £95, and was augmented by royal bounty. The Rev. J. Dombrain is the incumbent.

THE EASTERN DISTRICT.

This side of the city has been greatly improved by the formation of a new road called Prince of Wales’ Road, from Foundry Bridge to the Castle Hill. Handsome houses have been built on each side, and broad pavements laid down. Rose Lane has been widened and improved. The Castle Meadow has been adorned by the erection of a new bank called the Crown Bank, a very handsome building in the Corinthian style of architecture. This is the finest building of the kind in the eastern counties.

The Cavalry Barracks are situated in Barrack Street on the east side of the city, on the site of an old manor house. They were built by the government in 1791 at a cost of £20,000. The buildings are of brick, and form three sides of a square, the centre being for the accommodation of the officers. The wings accommodate the soldiers to the extent of 320 men, and 266 horses. The high wall which surrounds the entire barracks, including the parade ground, encloses an area of ten acres.

The Dungeon Tower is opposite the barracks, on land called “The Hospital Meadow.” It is a large round tower of brick, originally surrounded by a battlement. It was built as a prison for the cathedral precincts. The Norfolk Railway Station stands in the hamlet of Thorpe near the Foundry Bridge.

_St. Michael at Plea_.

The Church of St. Michael at Plea is at the top of Queen Street. This church was so named from the Archdeacon holding his pleas or courts there. It is a cruciform church with a low flint tower, and a modern bell turret. Its transepts were formerly chapels dedicated to St. John the Baptist and the Virgin Mary. It contains several old paintings of the crucifixion, resurrection, &c., in the panels. About two years ago the tower was restored at a cost of £250. The rectory, valued in K. B. at £6 10s., and in 1831 at £85, was augmented with £600 of Queen Anne’s bounty from 1774 to 1791, and with a parliamentary grant of £1000 in 1816. The lords of the manors of Sprowston and Horsford are patrons alternately. The Rev. C. Morse, LL.B., is the incumbent.

_St. George Tombland_.

The Church of St. George Tombland stands at the end of Prince’s Street, and is so named from the open space near it having formerly been used as a burying place. It has a handsome square tower which contains five bells, and was erected by the parishioners in 1445. The nave, aisles, and chancel are covered with lead, and have some spacious galleries and ornamental inscriptions of ancient and modern times. The building is chiefly of the perpendicular period, but some portions are of an older date. Three new memorial windows were recently inserted on the north side. Messrs. J. and J. King, Prince’s Street, put in the stained glass. The Rev. W. Bridge was ejected from the incumbency of this parish for refusing to read the Book of Sports. He afterwards became pastor of the Old Meeting House. The churchyard has been planted with shrubs, and if a neat iron railing were substituted for the present wall, it would greatly improve the appearance of Tombland. The Rev. K. Trimmer is the incumbent.

_St. Peter Hungate_.

St. Peter Hungate Church is in the same street at the top of Elm Hill. The original church was demolished in 1458, when the present one was built. It was built by John Paston and Margaret his wife. It is of black flint in the form of a cross, having a nave, chancel, transepts, and square tower with two bells. The roof of the nave is ornamented with figures of angels. In 1861 the interior was much improved. The rectory of St. Peter Hungate, valued in K.B. at £3 1s. 5½d., and now at £63, was augmented from 1743 to 1810 with £600 of royal bounty. The Lord Chancellor is patron, and the Rev. S. Titlow, M.A., has been rector since 1839.

_St. Simon and Jude_.

St. Simon and Jude’s Church in Wensum Street has a nave, a chancel, and a low flint and stone tower, with five bells. It is in the perpendicular style, and is of great antiquity. It contains a few old brasses, and several monuments of the Pettus family, in one of which lies, in complete armour, the figure of Sir J. Pettus, the first of the family who was knighted. The Rev. J. F. Osborne is the incumbent.

_St. Martin at Palace_.

St. Martin at Palace Church stands opposite the entrance to the Bishop’s Palace. It has a nave with aisles, chancel with aisles, clerestory, and a tower with five bells. It is of the plain perpendicular style, and contains a good panelled octagon font. The east window of the chancel is filled with stained glass, representing the adoration of the magi, the annunciation, the crucifixion, the resurrection of our Saviour, &c. The living is a perpetual curacy valued at £70, and augmented from 1743 to 1813 with £1800 of royal bounty. The Dean and Chapter are patrons. The Rev. R. W. Barker is incumbent.

_St. Helen_.

The parish of St. Helen is situated on the east side of the cathedral, and nearly the whole of the parish belongs to the Great Hospital, which is an extensive range of buildings, comprising the antique remains of the dissolved hospital of St. Giles, and several modern additions erected at various periods, for the accommodation of the alms people who have been increased in number progressively with the augmentation of the income. In 1850, ninety-two men, and eighty-two women were lodged, fed, and clothed at the expense of the charity, which also supports a master and ten nurses. The alms people must be of the age of 65 years or upwards before their admission. They are clothed in dark blue, and allowed sixpence per week each for pocket money.

St. Helen’s Church in Bishopgate Street belonged to the monks, who demolished it and consolidated the cure with the church of St. Giles’ Hospital, now called the Great Hospital, on the opposite side of the street, soon after the foundation of the latter by Bishop Suffield in 1250. The whole of this hospital church, which serves as the parish church of St. Helen, is still standing. It has a square perpendicular tower at the south-west corner, containing one bell. The greater part of the pile has been converted into lodgings for the alms people. The church is fitted up with gothic carved work and open seats. Kirkpatrick, the antiquary, is buried here. The perpetual curacy received by lot £200 of Queen Anne’s bounty in 1816, and was valued in 1831 at £16 exclusive of the glebe house, but is now worth £200 per annum. The City Charity Trustees are patrons. The Rev. W. F. Patteson, incumbent.

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In King Street are the churches of St. Peter per Mountergate, St. Julian, St. Etheldred, and St. Peter Southgate, all ancient edifices.

_St. Peter per Mountergate_.

St. Peter per Mountergate derives the latter part of its name from a gate formerly placed near the churchyard, at the foot of the Castle mount. The old church is in the perpendicular style, and has a nave, chancel, south porch with parvise, and a square embattled tower, with five bells and a clock. The building has been recently restored and fitted up with open benches, those in the nave being stained deal, and in the chancel oak. The famous Thomas Codd, who was Mayor of Norwich during Kett’s Rebellion, and who was a great benefactor to the city, was interred in the nave. The benefice is now a perpetual curacy, valued at £78, and augmented with £200 of Queen Anne’s bounty in 1766, and with a parliamentary grant of £800 in 1812. The Dean and Chapter are patrons. The Rev. John Durst, incumbent.

_St. Julian_.

St. Julian’s Church, in King Street, is a very small ancient structure, founded before the conquest, and comprises nave, chancel, north porch, and tower. It is principally of the Norman period, and most of the windows are decorated and perpendicular insertions. The tower, which is ruined, has a deeply recessed Norman arch, slightly pointed, and having shafts with caps and bases. It has also a small Norman loop window in the thickness of the wall splayed both inside and outside. The south doorway is a very fine specimen of Norman architecture, and was restored in 1845, when the chancel was rebuilt and the church thoroughly restored at a cost of £500. The east window was at the same time filled with stained glass, representing our Saviour seated and surrounded by the evangelists. The font is perpendicular in style, cup-shaped and panelled. There was a hermitage for a female recluse in the churchyard, but it was demolished at the dissolution. The rectory, certified at £19 3s. 1d., has been long consolidated with All Saints. The Rev. C. F. Sculthorpe, M.A., is patron.

_St. Etheldred_.

St. Etheldred’s Church, in King Street, is supposed to be one of the oldest structures in the city, and had in its burial ground a very ancient anchorage, which continued till after the Reformation. It is a small building with a nave, chancel, and tower. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, certified at £2 14s., and valued at £77. It was augmented from 1745 to 1802 with £800 of Queen Anne’s bounty. The Trustees of the Great Hospital are patrons. The Rev. W. Bishop is the present incumbent.

The parish of St. Etheldred seems to have been one of the parishes of the Anglo Saxon period, and in it formerly were the houses of many families of distinction, including the residences of Sir Thomas de Helgheton, of Henry de Norwich, of the Abbot of Wymondham, of Sir James Hobart, and of Sir Robert de Sulle, who was killed by the rebels in the reign of Edward III. No remains of these houses now exist. All along the east side of King Street, next the river, there is a line of vaults, which seem to have formed the foundations of old churches now demolished. The Old Music House still stands in King Street, in the parish of St. Etheldred, and on its site formerly stood the house of one of the rich Jews, who settled here in the reign of William Rufus. It afterwards became the property of his grandson Isaac, at whose death it was escheated to the crown. Henry III. gave it to Sir William de Valeres, Knt., and in 1290 it was the residence of Alan de Frestons, Archdeacon of Norfolk, who had a public chapel there. In 1626, it belonged to John Paston, Esq., and in 1633 it was the city house of Chief Justice Coke. The present house is not older than the 17th century. Under it there are very extensive vaults of a more ancient date, now occupied by Messrs. Youngs, Crawshay, and Youngs, as ale stores.

_St. Peter Southgate_.

St. Peter Southgate, near the south end of King Street, is an ancient church, with a nave, chancel, north chapel, south porch, and a square flint tower, in which are three bells. The windows are chiefly square headed, and the architecture is of the late perpendicular period. There is a good cross on the east gable. Part of an old screen remains in front of the north chapel. The Rev. W. Bishop is the incumbent.

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Carrow Works, at the top of King Street, are the most extensive in England for the production of flour, starch, mustard, and blue. The works cover an area of five acres. They are conveniently situated on the banks of the Yare, and are permeated by trams from the Great Eastern Railway. Here are large flour mills, starch mills, and mustard mills, in which 1200 hands are employed. Steam engines to the enormous amount of 400 horse power are used to drive the machinery. About 100 tons of goods are produced here weekly, and sent away by rail to all parts of England, Europe, and America. A large number of hands are engaged in making the tins and wooden boxes in which most of the mustard is packed. We visited Carrow Works chiefly to see the mustard, starch, and blue factories; but we were tempted to take a peep at the great flour mill which has been erected by Messrs. J. and J. Colman, and which for magnitude and completeness has few equals. The machinery in this mill is driven by a magnificent pair of engines of 80 horse power. The Mayor for the present year, 1868, J. J. Colman, Esq., is the principal proprietor of these great works, and he has built many houses all around for his work-people, and also schools for their children at a cost of £2000.

A Nunnery formerly stood outside of King Street Gates, and was called Carrow Abbey, from “carr” a watering place, and “hoe” a hill. This abbey was dedicated to St. Michael and St. John. It was founded in the year 1146 by two ladies named Leftelina and Seyna. It was richly endowed by King Stephen, and consisted of a prioress and nine benedictine black nuns, afterwards increased to twelve. The site within the walls contained about ten acres of land, and the revenues and possessions were extensive. At the dissolution the abbey and lands became private property. J. H. Tillett, Esq., is the present occupier.

THE NORTHERN DISTRICT.

This district includes all the parishes from the north-west to the north-east side of the river Wensum; and comprises the parishes of St. Michael at Coslany, St. Martin at Oak, St. Augustine, St. Mary, St. George’s Colegate, St. Clement, St. Saviour, St. Paul, St. James, and St. Edmund. On the north side we enter the oldest part of the city, which seems to have been always chosen by the poorest portion of the population, near the great factories, which stand high above all the surrounding poverty-stricken dwellings.

_St. Michael at Coslany_.

St. Michael at Coslany, commonly called St. Miles’, is a spacious church, with a lofty square tower and eight musical bells. The nave was rebuilt by John and Stephen Stallon, who were sheriffs in 1511 and 1512. The south aisle was begun by Gregory Clark, and was finished by his son, who was Mayor in 1514. The interior is handsomely decorated. At the east end of the south aisle there is a chapel, founded by Robert Thorp in the reign of Henry VII., encrusted externally with black flints, like inlaid work. The altar piece, by Heins, represents the Resurrection and the Four Evangelists, and the floor is paved with black and white marble, brought from the domestic chapel at Oxnead. There are a few ancient brasses and modern mural monuments. The rectory, valued in K.B. at £13 6s. 8d. and now at £117, was augmented in 1738 with £200 bequeathed by the Rev. E. Brooke; in 1818, with £200 given by the late rector; and from 1738 to 1818 with £1000 of royal bounty. Gonville and Caius College, Cambridge, had the patronage of the living, which was usually given to the oldest bachelor of that college. It has recently been purchased by the Rev. E. Hollond, Benhall Lodge, Suffolk. The Rev. R. H. Kidd is the incumbent.

_St. Martin at Oak_.

The parish of St. Martin at Oak, in Coslany Street, and the whole neighbourhood, is a very old part of the city, full of very poor people. The church derived its name from a large oak which formerly stood in the churchyard. This was much visited during the reign of superstition, and many legacies were given towards painting, repairing, and dressing the image of St. Mary in the Oak. Another oak was planted on the same spot in 1656, but that now growing was planted eight years ago. The church is built of flint and stone in the perpendicular style, and contains some good piers. In 1852, the chancel was rebuilt and a new organ was placed in the church; and in 1862, plain open benches were substituted for the old pews in the chancel. There are a few monuments and brasses in the church, and in one of the former are effigies of Jeremiah Ravens and his wife in alabaster. She died in 1711, and he in 1727. The south porch is now used as a vestry, and the outer doorway is built up. The benefice is a perpetual curacy, certified at 20s., and now valued at £102. It was augmented with £200 given by William Nockells in 1722, and £1000 of royal bounty obtained from 1723 to 1824. The Dean and Chapter are patrons. Rev. C. Caldwell, B.A., the esteemed incumbent, is much respected for his kindness to the poor.

_St. Augustine_.

From St. Martin at Oak we pass onward into St. Augustine’s, where we find various factories and a very populous neighbourhood. The church, on the east side of the Gildencroft, is in the perpendicular style, and consists of a nave with aisles, chancel with aisles, south porch and tower. The tower contains a clock and three bells. The roof of the north aisle of the chancel is finely carved, and the clerestory is built of flint. In the south aisle of the nave is a marble monument in memory of Thomas Clabburn, manufacturer, who died in 1858. It was erected by the subscriptions of more than 600 weavers of Norwich as a tribute to his many virtues. The rectory, valued in K.B. at £6 7s. 8½d. and now at £150, was augmented in 1781 with £200 of Queen Anne’s bounty, and in 1810, 1811, and 1821, with £1400 in parliamentary grants. The Dean and Chapter are the patrons. The Rev. Matthew John Rackham is the incumbent.

_St. Mary Coslany_.

From St. Augustine’s we pass down Pitt Street to the parish of St. Mary, inhabited chiefly by poor people. The church is a cruciform structure with a tall round tower of flint, containing six bells. There are no aisles. The south porch has a good groined vault and a richly moulded doorway, with a parvise or chamber above. The chancel has a panelled ceiling with rich perforated work. The pulpit is ancient and has tracery in the upper part of the panels, with the linen pattern below, and a perforated iron projection for the book rest. The font is octagonal, and has painted shields of arms in its upper panels. The rood-stair turret is at the intersection of the north transept and chancel. At the west end of the nave there is an old parish chest, and in the south transept there is a square-headed foliated piscina. Several ancient stalls are remaining, and in the north wall of the chancel there is a tombstone of the Elizabethan era, dated 1578, and having incised figures of Martin Vankermbeck, M.D., and his wife. The perpetual curacy was augmented, from 1733 to 1824, with £2200 of royal bounty, and is valued at £124. The Marquis of Townshend is patron. Rev. C. Morse, LL.B., is incumbent.

_St. George Colegate_.

We pass on eastward to the parish of St. George’s Colegate, wherein are some of the best built streets on this side of the city. The church is a large structure rebuilt at different periods, viz., the tower and nave about 1459; the chancel in 1498; the north aisle with the chapel of St. Mary in 1504; and the south aisle with the chapel of St. Peter in 1513. The tower is lofty and has a clock and three bells. The rood-stair turret still remains on the south side. The east window is of three lights, and is filled with painted glass by Mr. Swan, with figures representing Faith, Hope, and Charity. The living is a perpetual curacy, valued at £98, and augmented from 1737 to 1792 with £1000 of Queen Anne’s bounty. The Dean and Chapter are patrons. The Rev. A. W. Durdin, incumbent. The memorial to John Crome, familiarly known to Norwich citizens, and to artists and connoisseurs in paintings as “Old Crome,” one of the most esteemed of our Norwich “worthies,” has just been placed in the church of St. George Colegate, in which parish he passed the latter years of his life, and in which he died soon after being chosen churchwarden, in the year 1821. The idea of erecting a monument to the memory of Crome originated in 1841, amongst some of his fellow-citizens who were lovers of the fine arts, but the subscriptions received up to 1844 appear only to have amounted to about twenty-six pounds. At the death of Mr. Lound, who had been receiving the subscriptions, in 1861, Mr. J. B. Morgan, determining to carry out the object of the subscribers, recommended the work of canvassing for subscriptions, which ultimately reached the sum of about £100. Funds having been raised, a committee of amateur artists was formed, who consulted Mr. Bell, an eminent sculptor, of London, and a native of this city, by whom a handsome mural tablet has been placed at the east end of the south aisle of St. George’s Church to the memory of Crome. This tablet, which is of white marble, is divided into three panels, the centre panel containing a bas-relief profile bust of John Crome. Judging from the portrait of Crome recently hung in the Council Chamber, this is an admirable likeness of the Norwich landscape painter. Beneath are the name “John Crome” in gold letters, and a palette and pencils; and above an elegantly carved laurel wreath. On one panel is the following: “Near this spot lie the remains of one of England’s greatest landscape painters, born in this city, December 21st, 1769, and died in this parish April 22nd, 1821;” and on the right-hand panel, “This memorial is erected forty-seven years after his death by admirers of his art, principally connected with Norfolk, his native county.”

St. Clement’s parish includes St. Clement Within and St. Clement Without. The population increased from 853 inhabitants in 1801 to nearly 4000 in 1861. This large increase occurred chiefly in the northern suburb of the city, called New Catton, which, in 1842, was constituted an ecclesiastical district, and assigned to Christ Church, a new edifice built there. Some centuries ago, several old churches, called St. Anne’s Chapel, All Saints, St. Botolph, and St. Margaret, existed in this parish, but no vestiges now remain.

St. Clement’s Church, in Colegate Street, is one of the oldest in the city, and belonged to the manor of Tokethorpe. It has a square tower with three bells, a nave without aisles, and a chancel, all in the perpendicular styles. The chancel contains four dedication crosses, and is separated from the nave by a fine arch. The tower arch is blocked by the organ and gallery. The communion plate weighs 88 ozs., including a silver gilt cup given by S. Sofyld in 1569. Three parish houses are let for £26 10s. yearly, which is applied with the church rates, except a reserved yearly rent of 3s. 4d. payable to the Great Hospital, pursuant to a lease granted in 1569 for 500 years. The rectory valued in K.B. at £7 9s. 2d., and now at £96, was augmented in 1738 with £200 of Queen Anne’s bounty, and £200 bequeathed by the Rev. Edward Brooke. It is in the patronage of Gonville and Caius College, Cambridge, and incumbency of the Rev. R. Rigg.

_Christ Church_.

Christ Church in New Catton was consecrated by Bishop Stanley amid a disturbance caused by the chartists. It is a chapel of ease in the improving parish of St. Clement. It is a neat structure of flint and brick in the early English style, comprising nave, chancel, transepts, and a bell turret at the west end. It was finished in 1841 at a cost of about £2500, and has sittings for 600 people. It was built by subscription, and by the same means £800 have been invested for its endowment, and £200 for its reparation. The rector of St. Clement’s is patron of the perpetual curacy, valued at £150, and it is now in the incumbency of the Rev. Robert Wade, B.A.

_St. Saviour_.

St. Saviour’s Church, in Magdalen Street, is a small structure, and has a square tower with two bells. It has some modern monuments. The south porch is now used as a baptistry. The font has an octagonal panelled basin, and is supported by four shafts resting on lions’ heads, and carried through ogee canopies with pinnacles between. The perpetual curacy was certified at £3, and is now valued at £103. It was augmented from 1729 to 1813 with £1800 of royal bounty. The Dean and Chapter are patrons. The Rev. W. Harris Cooke, M.A., incumbent.

_St. Edmund_.

St. Edmund’s Church, in Fishgate Street, was founded in the reign of William I. It comprises a nave, chancel, south aisle, and tower with one bell. The arches of the nave are nearly flat, and the sub-arches are carried on shafts with moulded caps. The rectory, valued in K.B. at £4 6s. 3d., and now at £165, was augmented in 1726 with £200 given by Rev. W. Stanley and Rev. R. Corey, and from 1726 to 1819 with £1000 of royal bounty. The Rev. T. Taylor is the incumbent.

_St. James_.

St. James’ Church, in Cowgate, includes Pockthorpe in its parish, and was a well endowed rectory till 1201, when it was appropriated to the Cathedral Priory. It is now a peculiar of the Dean and Chapter. The Rev. A. D. Pringle, incumbent.

_St. Paul_.

St. Paul’s Church, in the square called St. Paul’s Plain, is an old dilapidated building with a small round tower, the upper part of which was octagonal, but was rebuilt about 1819 of white brick with stone coping. It has some decorated windows, but is chiefly in the perpendicular style. There is a north aisle, and at the east end a parclose, the two screens of different patterns, but both in the same perpendicular style. The perpetual curacy was certified at only £2, but was augmented from 1745 to 1749 with £200 of Queen Anne’s bounty, and is now worth £150. The Dean and Chapter are patrons, and the Rev. Bell Cooke is incumbent.

THE SOUTHERN DISTRICT.

_St. Stephen_.

The parish of St. Stephen’s, on the south side of the city, is extensive and populous. The streets present some good shops and places of business. The principal streets are Rampant Horse Street, St. Stephen’s Street, and Surrey Street. The Norfolk and Norwich Hospital is at the top of St. Stephen’s Street, and the far-famed Norwich Union Fire and Life Office is in Surrey Street.

The church, at the west end of Rampant Horse Street, is a handsome edifice of the late perpendicular style, of the 16th century, with a nave and clerestory, two aisles, a chancel, two small chapels, and a square tower. The nave is divided from the aisles by fluted columns with pointed arches. The windows are large and numerous, and that at the east end is filled with stained glass representing the life of the Virgin Mary, and dated 1610. This church was founded before the Norman Conquest, but has been all rebuilt at different periods, the chancel about 1520, and the nave in 1550. The roof is a fine specimen of open timber-work, and is richly carved. The tower stands on the north side of the church, and beneath it is the porch. In 1859, the interior was thoroughly restored at a cost of £1500, and a new carved pulpit and a reading desk were put up at the same time. Under the superintendence of Mr. Phipson, the county architect, ten new windows have been lately inserted in this church, five on each side. They are in the perpendicular style corresponding to the style of the building. They are glazed with cathedral glass and a ruby border. There is also a new window over the south door of the chancel. It is glazed with painted glass of a geometrical pattern, put in by the London firm that produced the work in the large western window, representing the death of St. Stephen. That window cost £300. The benefice is a discharged vicarage, valued in K.B. at £9, and now at £212. It was augmented from 1715 to 1812 with £1000 of royal bounty. The Dean and Chapter are patrons. The Rev. C. Baldwin, vicar.

_St. John Sepulchre_.

St. John Sepulchre is a large church at the top of Ber Street, dedicated to St. John the Baptist and the Holy Sepulchre, and founded in the reign of Edward the Confessor. It consists of a nave, chancel, a sort of transept chapel on each side, and a lofty tower with five bells and a clock. The font is octagonal and is ornamented with angels, lions, &c. The east window is of three lights filled with stained glass, the centre light presenting a figure of St. John the Baptist. The window is in memory of the Rev. Samuel Stone, M.A., incumbent of this parish, who was a great friend of the poor, and died in 1848. Here is a fine mural monument of the Watts family. The rood-stair turret still remains, and in the south side of the chancel is a fine consecration cross. The living is a perpetual curacy, certified at £9 1s., and now valued at £144. It was augmented from 1737 to 1812 with £1600 of royal bounty. The Dean and Chapter are patrons. The Rev. W. T. Moore, incumbent.

_St. Michael at Thorn_.

This part of the city includes the parish of St. Michael at Thorn, so called from the “thorns” formerly growing in the neighbourhood, of which there is one now in the churchyard. The Rev. A. Davies is incumbent of the parish. The church is remarkable for its antiquity.

_All Saints_.

At the bottom of Ber Street we may turn to the left into the parish of All Saints, where the church stands in an open space called All Saints’ Green. The church is a small structure, having a nave, chancel, porch, and tower containing three bells. The chancel contains some decorated windows, but the other portions of the church are perpendicular. The east window is modern and filled with poor stained glass, but there are some fragments of ancient stained glass, containing heads of bishops, &c., in the windows of the aisles. The font is octagonal and in the perpendicular style. There are three monuments with merchant’s marks upon them. The rectory, valued in K.B. at £3 14s. 7d., is consolidated with St. Julian, valued in K.B. at £5. The joint benefices are now worth £300 per annum. They were augmented with £300 of Queen Anne’s bounty in 1769 and 1810, and with £200 given by John Drinkwater, Esq., and £500 given by S. Thornton, Esq., in 1800. The Rev. C. F. Sculthorpe, M.A., is patron, and the Rev. G. S. Outram is incumbent.

_St. John Timberhill_.

St. John’s Timberhill, at the north end of Ber Street, was founded soon after the priory of Norwich, to which it was appropriated, and it was dedicated to St. John the Baptist. It has a nave, chancel, south porch with parvise, and two aisles with chapels at their east ends. That on the north, a part of which is now used for the vestry, was called our Lady’s Chapel. There is a hagroscope or squint on the south side of the chancel, and near it is a small decorated piscina. The font is circular and Norman. The whole building needs restoration. The square tower fell down on August 20th, 1784, and damaged the west end of the church. Its foundations still remain, but the bells were sold to pay for the repairs. The perpetual curacy was augmented from 1738 to 1813 with £1000 of royal bounty, and valued in 1835 at £31. The Dean and Chapter are patrons. The Rev. S. Titlow, M.A., has been the incumbent since 1831.

_Chapel Field_.

There is yet left unnoticed a small district lying south of St. Giles’, and which is generally known as Chapel Field. Near this field once stood a college called St. Mary in the Fields, founded about the beginning of the 13th century by John Le Brun. Soon after its establishment its benefactors were so numerous that in a short time it became a very noble college, having a dean, chancellor, precentor, treasurer, seven prebendaries, and six chaplains. Miles Spencer, the last dean, persuaded the college to resign its revenues for small pensions, after he had obtained a grant of the whole for himself from Henry VIII. at the dissolution. The property afterwards passed through several hands, and the field is now the property of the corporation. It has recently been enclosed by a massive palisade, and much improved as a place of recreation; and a large Drill Hall has been built at the north-west corner for the use of the Volunteers. The Drill Hall was opened by the Prince of Wales in 1866.

THE HAMLETS.

_Heigham_.

The hamlets have, of late years, been greatly increased in extent and population, and are likely to leave the old city in the shade. Heigham, on the west side of the city, has become a town, with two churches, and another about to be built, three chapels, and several large schools. Since 1801, the population has increased from 544 to 15,000 souls. Many new streets have been laid out between the Dereham and Earlham Roads; long rows of new houses have been built, and are nearly all occupied. The National School-house, on Dereham road, was built in 1840 at a cost of £1000, and is attended by about 270 children.

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The CITY JAIL, an ugly building, stands in this hamlet at the corner of St. Giles’ Road. It was built in 1827 from a design by Mr. Philip Barnes, of Norwich, at a cost of £30,000. The front elevation is massive and is supported by Tuscan columns. The whole building encloses an area of 1 acre 2 roods 34 poles, and contains 114 cells. The house of the governor stands in the centre and commands a view of the entire prison, which is well ventilated and supplied with water pumped by the tread-wheel.

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The NEW WATER WORKS are in this hamlet, and supply the city with water from the river Wensum. After filtration the water is forced up by steam power to the distributing reservoir at Lakenham, at a height of 134 feet above the level of the river at Carrow Bridge, whence it flows by gravitation to all parts of the city and the suburbs. The present company has a capital of £60,000 in £10 shares, and was incorporated under an act of parliament passed in 1850, the powers of which have been enlarged by subsequent acts, so that wholesome and pure water is now constantly supplied at very low terms. Excellent provision has also been made for a plentiful supply for extinguishing fires, by fixing hydrants at every 100 yards.

_Bishop Hall’s Palace_.

[Picture: Bishop Hall’s Palace]

The OLD PALACE, where the celebrated Bishop Hall resided, (now known as the Dolphin Inn,) is in this hamlet. Here he retired after his expulsion from the bishop’s palace by the republican party in 1644. The house, which is fast going to decay, displays the peculiarities of the domestic architecture of the time of James I. The front presents two projecting bays, one on each side of the door, which afford a light to the lower and upper rooms. The doorway deserves a passing notice, and some curiously carved heads will be found in the interior, as well as the remains of an ancient piscina in the wall at the entrance. There is a large parlour on the right hand, wainscotted all round from the floor to the ceiling.

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The NEW WORKHOUSE was erected in 1859 at an expense of £33,000 exclusive of £680 paid for about nine acres of land. It is an extensive range of brick buildings in the Tudor style of architecture, having room for about 1000 inmates, but it has never had so many as yet, though the number is increasing every year. The debt on the building was £22,000, and will be gradually paid off by instalments.

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The NEW CEMETERY. The greatest improvement effected in Norwich during the present century was the closing of all the churchyards for burials, and the opening of a new cemetery for the dead. It was opened in 1856 and is pleasantly situated on high ground next the Earlham Road; the whole area being divided into two parts, one side being consecrated and the other unconsecrated. The whole comprises 35 acres of land prettily laid out and planted. It was formed at a cost of £7000 by the Burial Board. There are entrances from the Earlham and Dereham Roads. The two principal chapels are of early English architecture with porches and apsidal terminations. There is also a small chapel for the use of the Jews.

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The long contemplated division of this extensive hamlet into three parishes, has at length been carried into effect. The old church of St. Bartholomew is to be the parish church of the new parish of that name on the north side next the river. The estimated population is 5,600. The Rev. J. G. Dixon is rector. The central part of the hamlet, lying between the Dereham and Earlham Roads, with a population of 4,400, is to form the new parish of St. Philip; but a church has not been yet built. The third parish, the incumbency of which is retained by the Rev. C. T. Rust, includes all that part of Heigham which lies between Earlham Road and the boundary of St. Stephen’s. The population is about 6,400. The church, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, in Essex Street, is the parish church. The church of St. Bartholomew stands on an eminence above the Wensum, and is a small structure in the perpendicular style, with a nave, south aisle, north porch, chancel, and a square tower, in which are three bells. It has a mural monument to the pious Bishop Hall, who was buried here in 1656. The living is a rectory valued in K.B. at £6 13s. 4d., and now at a little over £200. Trinity Church, near Unthank’s Road, was built by subscription, and consecrated in August 1861, to supply the great want of church accommodation which had long been felt in this part of the hamlet. It is a large building in the decorated style, and consists of nave, transepts, and apsidal chancel, with a tower containing one bell, and surmounted by a slated spire 120 feet high. The total cost was £7000.

In 1861, an ancient lead coffin, containing the remains of a female skeleton, was discovered about four feet below the surface on a chalk pit at Stone Hills, Heigham. It was perfectly plain, and appeared to have been formerly enclosed in an outer case of wood, and was probably of the Roman period. Near it were found two bronze torque rings of a twisted pattern, encrusted with a fine green patina, and evidently of the Anglo-Saxon period.

_Hellesdon_.

Hellesdon, adjoining Heigham, is a small and pretty village on an eminence two miles north-west of the city, but the parish is partly in Taverham hundred. It adjoins the river, which is here crossed by a cast-iron bridge, built by the corporation of Norwich in 1819. The common was enclosed in 1811. The Bishop is lord of the manor and owner of a great part of the soil.

_Earlham_.

Earlham is a very pleasant village, situated at the end of the Earlham Road. The ivy-mantled church is a very ancient building of small size. The hall, situated in a park, is associated with the honoured name of Gurney, and will long be an object of deep interest. Amongst other members of that distinguished family who resided here was the deservedly esteemed Joseph John Gurney, who often entertained many of the celebrities of his day. It was here that Wilberforce, Chalmers, and a host of worthies, well known to fame, visited one of the happiest of the homes of England, where the sterling character of Thomas Fowell Buxton was formed and matured, and where he met with the partner of his future life. It was the birthplace of Elizabeth Fry the philanthropist, of whom there is yet no monument in this city.

_Eaton_.

The hamlet of Eaton, two miles south-west of Norwich, is in the vale of the Taas. The manor is about 1300 acres, and belongs to the Dean and Chapter, but the soil is let to a number of lessees, many of whom have handsome houses in the Newmarket Road, one of the finest approaches to the city. Indeed, this road may be called the “west end” of Norwich. Eaton church is dedicated to St. Andrew, and is a long ancient building covered with thatch, and having an embattled tower with three bells. It was originally a Norman structure, but it appears to have been rebuilt in the early English period, and to have been considerably altered in the 15th century. About two years ago the church was thoroughly restored at a cost of about £400, when a number of beautiful mural paintings were discovered, some of them well preserved. The living is a vicarage not in charge, valued at £87, and augmented in 1732 with £200 given by the Earl of Thanet, and £200 of Queen Anne’s bounty.

_Lakenham_.

Lakenham is the next hamlet on the south side of the city, and the roads to it are favourite walks of the citizens. Caister is an adjoining village, where may be seen extensive remains of a Roman camp, built before Norwich existed. The configuration of the camp may still be traced as a parallelogram, enclosing an area of 32 acres, sufficient for a force of 6000 men. On the western side, which was washed by the Taas, formerly stood the water gate, with a round tower, where vessels used to unload. A very large number of Roman coins have been dug up here. Returning to the hamlet of Lakenham, we ascend a hill called Long John’s Hill. Lakenham church stands on high ground above the river Taas, and is a small structure dedicated to St. John the Baptist and All Saints. It has a tower with three bells. The benefice is a vicarage united to Trowse Newton, and with it valued at £261, in the patronage of the Dean and Chapter, and incumbency of the Rev. Alfred Pownall, M.A.

St. Mark’s Church, in Lakenham, was consecrated September 24th, 1844, and is a neat structure in the perpendicular style, comprising a nave without aisles, and an embattled tower with turrets, pinnacles, and three bells. It was built by subscription at a cost of £4000, and contains 900 sittings, most of which are free. The interior has commodious galleries, and is neatly fitted up. Ladies presented the communion table, plate, books for divine service, font, &c. The population in this hamlet has increased from 428 in 1801 to 4866 in 1861. The perpetual curacy, valued at £150, is in the patronage of the Dean and Chapter. The Rev. N. T. Garry, M.A., is incumbent.

_Trowse-Millgate_, _Carrow_, _and Bracondale_.

Trowse-Millgate, Carrow, and Bracondale, extend southward from King Street to the river Yare, opposite Trowse Newton. They form one hamlet, though each division had formerly a parochial chapel. Miss Martineau owns the greater part of the soil, and lives at Bracondale Lodge, a handsome mansion with delightful pleasure grounds. The late P. M. Martineau collected here many remnants of Gothic architecture in 1804, and used them in the erection of a lofty arch and an edifice, representing a small priory with windows filled by stained glass.

_Thorpe_.

The hamlet of Thorpe, one of the most delightful suburbs of the city, lies on the south-east side, opposite Foundry Bridge, and extends to Mousehold Heath. It contains many handsome villas, which are mostly surrounded by gardens. Many of the city gentry reside in this pleasant hamlet, which now contains about 3000 inhabitants. The church, dedicated to St. Matthew, was built in 1852 at a cost of £2300, for an ecclesiastical district, comprising that part of Thorpe parish within the city liberties, containing about 2500 inhabitants. It is a neat structure in the Norman style of architecture, from a design by Mr. Kerr, formerly architect of this city. It consists of a nave, transepts, and apsidal chancel, and is a unique structure. The five windows of the chancel are filled with stained glass. The rector of Thorpe is patron of the perpetual curacy, valued at £130, which is now held by the Rev. George Harris Cooke, M.A., who has a handsome parsonage house, erected in 1863 at a cost of £1400, in the Tudor style.

The road from the Foundry Bridge to Thorpe village is a favourite walk of the citizens. Thorpe lodge (the entrance to which is guarded by couchant lions, and is a conspicuous object on the left,) was the residence of the late John Harvey, Esq., “a fine old English gentleman,” who was a great promoter of manufactures, and of aquatic sports. Its present proprietor and occupant is Donald Dalrymple, Esq. The old hall, the name by which the manor house is now known, stands at the entrance to the village. It was formerly the country seat of the bishops. Adjoining are the remains of a chapel, now used as a coach house and stable. On the south side of the river, which was once reached by the ferry boat, stands the village of Whitlingham, where the citizens formerly resorted by thousands in the summer months. The grounds in this locality present a pleasing variety of hill and dale, wood and water, and the view from the White House includes the windings of the “bonny Yare,” the opposite village of Thorpe, the spire of the Cathedral rising above the distant hills, and the frowning aspect of the old Norman Castle. The whole of the land here now belongs to R. J. H. Harvey, Esq., M.P., who has greatly improved an estate of 2000 acres next the river. He has often thrown the grounds open to the citizens.

The Rosary Burial Ground, in Thorpe hamlet, was established in 1819 by the late Rev. Thomas Drummond, for the use of Dissenters. Being aware that many of the burial grounds attached to their chapels are held on leases under the corporation, he urged the necessity of a general cemetery on freehold land, so securely vested in trust that it could not be converted to other uses at any future time. The Rosary occupies eight acres of land in a good situation. It is divided into sections separated by plantings of trees or shrubs, and contains a small chapel. It is not consecrated, and ministers of any denomination may officiate at funerals. In this beautiful resting-place for the dead are deposited the remains of many of the worthiest of the Norwich citizens.

_Pockthorpe_.

Pockthorpe was originally part of Thorpe, but when severed in the time of the Conqueror, with the parishes of St. James and St. Paul, took the name of Paucus Thorpe or Little Thorpe, corrupted into Pockthorpe. The place is apparently wedded to poverty, with no Divorce Court to grant it relief. It is chiefly inhabited by poor weavers or spinners, who still adhere to an old pastime, the rearing of pigeons, as appears from many coops at the broken windows. The brewery here is an old well-established concern, and sends out about 100,000 barrels of beer yearly.

NONCONFORMISTS’ CHAPELS.

The OLD MEETING HOUSE, Colegate Street, was erected in 1693 by the Independents, a congregation of which body had existed in Norwich since the Commonwealth. They had originally assembled in a brewery in St. Edmund’s, and afterwards in the “west granary” of St. Andrew’s Hall. Mr. Bridge, the first pastor, who was incumbent of St. George’s, Tombland, seceded from the church in the reign of James II., and sat in the Westminster Assembly of Divines. The building is a large structure of red brick, fronted with four Corinthian pilasters. It contains sittings for 700 persons, and has spacious schoolrooms adjacent. The Rev. John Hallett is the present minister.

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PRINCE’S STREET CHAPEL (Independent) was erected in 1819. It is a handsome building of white brick, and has been enlarged and almost rebuilt at a cost of £2000, under the superintendence of Mr. Boardman, architect, of this city. It will now accommodate 1000 persons. The new front presents an elevation in the modern Italian or composite style, with seven windows of ornamental design. The roof has been raised and new windows inserted, eight on each side. New galleries have been erected with cast-iron columns, and ornamental iron front. A new apse has been added, and a vestry or retiring room at the back. The whole interior has been reseated with plain open benches. The entrances, staircase, hall, and avenues, are laid with tessellated tiles. At a short distance from the chapel there is a spacious schoolroom, with class rooms on each side. The Rev. G. S. Barrett is the present minister.

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THE CHAPEL IN THE FIELD, (Independent) opened in 1858, is a handsome edifice with two imposing spiral turrets. Its arched interior has a fine effect, increased by the introduction of four painted windows in the apse. The building affords sittings for 900 persons. Adjoining are spacious schoolrooms in a similar style of architecture. The Rev. Philip Colborne is the present minister.

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THE TABERNACLE (Lady Huntingdon’s Connexion) is situate near St. Martin’s at Palace. It was built by the Calvinistic Methodists, under Mr. Wheatley, in 1772, at a cost of £1752. In 1775, the Tabernacle was sold to the Countess of Huntingdon, who visited Norwich in the following year, and vested the building in trust with four clergymen and three laymen of the same connexion to appoint ministers whose preaching and sentiments are according to the articles and homilies of the church of England. It contains 1000 sittings. The Rev. Burford Hooke is the present minister. There is also another chapel of the same connexion on the Dereham Road, of which the Rev. John Joseph James Kempster is the minister.

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ST. MARY’S CHAPEL (Baptist) was originally erected in 1714, but was rebuilt in its present style in 1811 and enlarged in 1838. Rev. Joseph Kinghorn was pastor from May 20th, 1791, till his death, on September 1st, 1832. Rev. William Brock was pastor from 1833 to 1848, when he resigned his charge and went to London, where he preaches at Bloomsbury chapel. Since 1849, the Rev. G. Gould has been the pastor. Spacious schoolrooms adjoining the chapel are now in course of erection.

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ST. CLEMENT’S (Baptist) was erected in 1814 and contains 900 sittings, and there is a spacious schoolroom adjacent. The celebrated Mark Wilks was once the pastor. The present minister is the Rev. T. Foston.

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EBENEZER CHAPEL (Baptist), on Surrey Road, was built in 1854, the minister being the Rev. R. Govett, who some years since seceded from the established church.

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THE GILDENCROFT (Baptist), in St. Augustine’s, formerly occupied by the Society of Friends, was erected in 1680. There is a spacious burial ground attached, in which lie the remains of Joseph John Gurney, Mrs. Opie, and other eminent Friends. The Rev. C. H. Hosken is the minister.

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ORFORD HILL CHAPEL (Baptist) was opened as a chapel in 1832. The Rev. J. Brunt is the present minister.

There are also Baptist Chapels in Cherry Lane, (Rev. W. Hawkins); this was formerly a Wesleyan Chapel in which the Rev. John Wesley preached; Priory Yard, (Rev. R. B. Clare); Pottergate Street, (Rev. H. Trevor); and Jireh Chapel, Dereham Road, (no regular pastor).

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THE PRESBYTERIANS recently purchased St. Peter’s Hall, in Theatre Street, as a place of worship. The hall contains about 700 sittings, which are generally all occupied. The Rev. W. A. Mc Allan was ordained minister in 1867, and he preaches with great success to large congregations.

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WESLEYANS. The Revs. John and Charles Wesley paid their first visit to this city in 1754, but their followers had no settled place of worship here till 1769, when they built a small chapel in Cherry Lane, where the late Dr. Adam Clarke was stationed in 1783, and began to display that vast genius which afterwards astonished the religious world. The Wesleyan Methodists have two chapels, one a very spacious edifice in Lady Lane, and the other, just finished, in Ber Street.

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The UNITED METHODIST FREE CHURCH has two chapels. That in Calvert Street was erected by the Wesleyan Methodists in 1810, and is a large brick edifice with about 1200 sittings, and two houses for the ministers. The other is in Crook’s Place, Heigham, and was opened in 1839, and contains 800 sittings.

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THE PRIMITIVE METHODISTS have chapels on St. Catherine’s Plain, Cowgate Street, and Dereham Road. The first named, called Lakenham Chapel, was built in 1835, and contains 600 sittings. The second, in Cowgate Street, was built about 20 years since, and contains 300 sittings. The third, on Dereham Road, was built in 1864, on the site of a smaller one, at a cost of £1316, raised by subscription. Sunday schools are connected with all these chapels.

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THE UNITARIANS occupy the OCTAGON CHAPEL, St. George’s, a handsome building, of the shape implied by its name. It is surmounted by a dome, supported by eight Corinthian pillars. It was erected in 1756, on the site of the old Presbyterian Meeting-house. Dr. John Taylor, and Dr. Enfield (compiler of the Speaker) preached in this chapel. Rev. D. H. Smyth is the minister.

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THE SOCIETY OF FRIENDS have a meeting-house in Upper Goat Lane, a fine white-brick structure, with Doric portico, and lighted by a dome lantern.

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The ROMAN CATHOLICS have two chapels. In the last century there was a chapel connected with the palace of the Duke of Norfolk on the site of the present Museum, but it was lost when that property was sold by him. The Roman Catholics raised a subscription and built their present chapel in St. John’s Maddermarket in 1794. It is merely a plain building, but the altar is very handsome. It contains sittings for about 600 people. The services here are carried out with great solemnity, and with a strict adherence to the ritual of the Church of Rome. There is generally a large congregation at divine service. The Rev. Canon Dalton is the officiating priest. He resides near the chapel in a very ancient building that was occupied by the City Sheriff in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The chapel in Willow Lane, called the Chapel of the Apostles, is a handsome building, erected in 1828. The windows are of stained glass, and the interior decorations are very striking. This chapel is served by Fathers of the Society of Jesus, commonly called Jesuits. It is the custom of that order to change the officiating clergy every few years. The Rev. Mr. Lane of the order was a contemporary of the Rev. Mr. Beaumont, the first priest of St. John’s chapel, during the greater part, if not all, of that gentleman’s lengthened ministry of 62 years, and died about the same time. The congregation is generally larger than at St. John’s Chapel.

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FREE CHRISTIAN CHURCH. The Dutch Church, in St. Andrew’s Hall, originally the Conventual Church of the Black Friars, was granted to the Walloon congregation; but they now have service only once a year, when a sermon is preached in Dutch and afterwards in English. During the rest of the year the place is used by the Free Christian Church—Rev. J. Crompton, minister.

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THE FRENCH CHURCH, Queen Street—originally the parochial church of St. Mary Parva, and afterwards a cloth exchange—was granted, in 1637, to the French Protestant refugees. It is now occupied by the receivers of the doctrines enunciated by Emanuel Swedenborg. Mr. E. D. Rogers, leader.

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THE JEWS—who were formerly very numerous in this city—have a handsome synagogue in St. Faith’s Lane, erected in 1849, at a cost of £1600. Rev. S. Caro, minister.

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The CATHOLIC APOSTOLIC CHURCH (Irvingites) occupy a building in Clement Court, Redwell Street. The present minister is the Rev. Arthur Inglis, B.A.

Since the 17th century Nonconformists have increased from a few hundreds to 10,000 in this city.