Part 12

The day was fair; the sky was blue; the sea gulls soared about our little ship, uttering their shrill cries in search of food. Soon the land could be plainly seen along the island, and as we neared its shores my thoughts went back to a few years ago, when I stood on the deck of the steamboat Michigan watching so eagerly to catch the first glimpse of the dear old island that was my home. And now as we passed Cable's dock and saw the houses, and people walking about, how familiar everything looked to me. I watched to see our old home, but father said to me, "It is burned down." I looked at the place where it had stood and through my tears it seemed I could almost see my little brother Charley and myself strolling along the beach as we so often did in the old days, chasing the plovers along the shore. Then again I could see ourselves hurrying to get on board the little vessel with our goods left upon the beach and the Mormon men pointing the guns at us. Father seemed to know what was passing in my mind as he said. "There are only friends here now."

We sailed along Big Sand Bay, and there were many little buildings left where the fishermen lived. The Martin's and Sullivans place, with Kilty's and others, all looked so familiar, then past Loaney's Point with the big rock, and the homes looked just the same. In a short time our little ship was sailing into the harbor, where something new greeted my eyes, and that was the light house on the point, which was not there when I was there last. Everything was so beautiful and fair to look upon I could not help enjoying the lovely trip across the lake.

HOTELS AT THE HARBOR.

My brother and other friends met us and took us to the Mormon printing office, which had been turned into a hotel. When reaching there we were met by ever so many old friends, nearly all speaking in French, and their manner so hearty we could not help but feel their welcome. At supper time the dining room was filled with a jolly crowd of fishermen with a number of city people that were staying for rest and recreation in the summer months. Several of them had been with the fishermen on the lake that day watching the process of setting and lifting the nets, and many were the jokes that were made at their expense. Next door was another larger hotel, kept by Mr. David Lobdell and his wife. Mrs. Lobdell came from Fremont, Ohio. This hotel had been full of summer boarders, but many had gone to their city homes. This house had been used by the Mormons as a dance hall and theater.

The summer at the island had been a very gay one. About twenty families had summered there, living in the deserted homes of the Mormons. There were also two or three smaller boarding houses that were all filled and doing a good business. Fish were plenty, bringing a good price. Everybody had money and used it freely. The fishermen were a good, kind, jolly people as a class, borrowing no troubles for the morrow. In those days there were no tugs used in the fishing business, neither were there pound-nets used. There were many seines used. The fish caught were usually very large in size, both whitefish and trout. The merchants did a prosperous business. In winter the cord wood was chopped and brought to the docks for the steamers' fuel during the summer season.

THE FAREWELL RECEPTION TO FRIENDS.

The evening before we reached there a large party had been given as a farewell to the many summer friends that were going to their city homes. The two young Mormon sisters that Strang had chosen as Spiritual wives were also going away. They were to have a great festival, or feast, in July to celebrate the sealing ceremony of the King's marriage with the two young sisters, but death had come and taken the King before the time of the ceremony. These two sisters were very beautiful girls who were orphans and had a home with their uncle, he being a staunch Mormon, but a very good man. The summer people had been very interested in these two young sisters. Their parents had both died while they were very young. Being raised in the Mormon faith they thought it was right and considered it a great honor to have been chosen by the prophet and King. I was told by one who knew them intimately that they expressed great joy that they had escaped such a fate. Since the shooting of Strang they, as well as many others, had lost their faith in his religion.

RETURN OF THE MERCHANTS.

We were soon settled in a comfortable house left by the Mormons. The houses as a rule were placed close together in groups of three. Their yards were nicely laid out and filled with handsome flowers, which were now in bloom. When we reached there houses were plenty and we could take our choice. Mr. C. R. Wright and family had returned to the island, starting a large cooper shop and employing a number of workmen. Mr. James Moore and family, T. D. Smith and family, and many others who had left in 1852 had now returned. Mr. James Cable had taken possession of his property at the head of the island and was again in business. Mr. Peter McKinley had returned and was in business across the harbor on the opposite side from the point at what was called the "Gregg property." Mr. McKinley had been elected to the State Legislature at Lansing, so did not return to the island until late in the fall. His brother Morrison taking charge of the business. Peter McKinley was first cousin to William McKinley, our late President of the United States.

There was a very comfortable school house, built by the Mormons. It was a frame building containing a large library of fine books which belonged to the King. There were books of Greek and Latin, with histories and law books. Our school was taught that winter by Mr. Isaac Wright from Illinois. The Mormons had always had good schools, as the king wanted to have his subjects educated, but would not allow them to go outside to be educated. The teachers being their own people.

About a mile back from the shore on high, level land was Mr. Campbell's farm. This was a beautiful location on the south side of the harbor. This family had remained when the Mormons had left. They were glad to be left in peace and had become tired of Strang's rule. They were my neighbors for many years and proved themselves kind and true friends.

Mrs. Campbell had been one of Strang's greatest enemies in preventing his enforcing the laws of polygamy. She carried her family Bible to the temple, and there with many other women read God's laws from its pages faster than the king could explain it in his way. She told me all this herself, and said many times when she started for the temple it was with fear and trembling, not knowing sometimes whether she would ever return to her home.

She knew she was defying the King, and no one at the time could tell what the outcome might be, adding, "But we knew we were right and were fighting for our homes. We kept agitating and gained time. Strang began to find his power was not absolute. We women banded ourselves together and fought him with words so strong he had to stop to consider where he stood. Before it was settled the king was shot."

DR. McCULLOCH'S RESIDENCE.

At the harbor side, or St. James, was quite a village. Two docks, two stores, with the two hotels and two or three boarding houses; further around the bay was the old Mormon boarding house building that had been run by the Mormon with four wives. It was built of logs smooth on both sides. Mr. C. R. Wright converted that building into a large cooper shop. There were about twenty houses back along the hill, reaching along past the temple and Strang's cottage, with several more in the other direction around the bay toward the point. Just back a short distance from the street just opposite the dock stood what was called "Dr. McCulloch's residence." A very pretty gothic story and a half cottage. It was painted white with a white picket fence around it. Dr. McCulloch was the Mormon doctor from Baltimore. A fine physician. Coming to the island just to rest, he gained his health and liked the climate so well he settled there. His wife was a highly cultured lady. While not wholly Mormons, they were just enough so as to live peaceably with the King. Mrs. McCulloch was the leader in much of their amusements, and she often ridiculed Strang about his way of living and insisting upon the women wearing short hair and bloomer costumes. She always wore her dresses long when going on her annual trips home to Baltimore. But when on the island she wore the regulation short dress, as she said, "Just for fun."

The year we returned, in 1857, a Mr. Burke, a merchant from Buffalo, N. Y., had been that summer at the island with a stock of goods, leaving in the fall, selling his goods to Mr. George R. Peckham, of Toledo, Ohio, who carried on the business a few years alone, after which C. R. Wright went partner with him; then for a number of years the firm of Peckham & Wright was known. Later George Peckham sold his interest to Mr. Wright, and then the firm was known as C. R. Wright & Son. The business grew, as thousands of barrels of fish were caught and shipped every season. It soon became equal to the fish market at Mackinac Island, it being nearer to most of the fishing grounds. In a few years the property at the point was bought by the firm of Dormer & Allen, of Buffalo, N. Y. A large store and warehouse was built, with the dock improved, and the business was carried on at the point with success by that firm for a number of years.

THE KING'S HIGHWAY.

At Cable's dock Mr. John Corlette, of Ohio, had settled, and after a fair success in business of several years he moved to Cheboygan, Mich., with his son-in-law, Mr. Andrew Trombley. Captain Appleby, of Buffalo, N. Y., took Mr. Loaney's place as keeper of the light-house at the head of the island, where his nephew, Frank Blakeslee, assisted. After a few years Mr. Harrison Miller took Capt. Appleby's place, remaining eleven years or more, assisted by his nephew, Edwin Bedford. Mr. William Duclon succeeded Miller, and after about eight years was transferred to Eagle Bluff light-house, where he still continues at this writing. Mr. Harrison Miller, after leaving the light-house, was appointed keeper of the life saving station at Beaver Harbor, and was transferred to Point Betsey life-saving station. Mr. Owen Gallagher succeeded him at the Beaver Island station.

The Mormons laid the roads out very convenient for the settlers that were in the interior of the island. One road went direct from the harbor across to Bonnar's landing, a distance of five miles. This road passed through many fine farms, and there were roads branching from this one leading to all parts of the island, with the king's highway leading direct through from the harbor to the head of the island. The king's highway was very beautiful with its wild scenery. Many of the roads were built with small logs cut the width of the road and laid down firmly close together. These were called cause-ways or corduroy. This kind was built where it was swampy and low land to go through. These cause-ways were very beautiful in summer time with their branches arching overhead in many places, with beautiful evergreens mixed in with willows, green mosses and flowers.

HORSEBACK RIDING ABOUT THE ISLAND.

I soon became acquainted with Mr. Campbell's daughter. She was a bright, jolly girl just two years older than I. They had horses, so Mary and I used to ride horseback almost every day until she had taken me almost all over the island. Oh, those delightful rides! There were roads and bridle paths going in every direction. I would soon have been lost, but Mary knew them all, and when she had any doubts about the way out from the deep woods those two horses never failed to take us right. Mary was a pleasant companion. She knew the names of all the people who had lived on those now deserted farms. Every house we came to was vacant. The little gates were broken off their hinges in several places, and in some of the houses the curtains were still at the windows. Weeds were growing all about the doors, flowers were still in bloom, with weeds mixed in among them, barns were empty with some of their doors open. There were broods of chickens around many of the barns, and one yard we rode into some pretty little kittens ran scampering under the barn. Mary was talking all the time, saying, "Such a man lived here; they were very good people. Just see how pretty the flowers grow and the lovely currant bushes. Ma and I came and picked the most of them this season, as Mrs. M---- told us to. Oh we did feel so sorry for her to have to leave her home. Now these people were awfully queer. They never talked to anybody; and just see the lovely hay in this field all going to waste." We rode along where there were several houses built close together with a large barn, and the flowers were beautiful. Roses climbing about the windows. "Yes, this is where one of the apostles lived. We didn't like him a bit. Ma says he made Strang do lots of things he didn't want to and wanted to put father high in office and have him sealed to some more wives, but Ma would not allow it. She went to the temple and did all she could do to stop it, and I believe Strang was afraid the women would mob him. At any rate he let us alone. We liked that apostle's wife. She was a kind little woman." I enjoyed the riding, but it made me sad to see all those deserted homes. I could see how much hard work had been done to make everything so comfortable.

THE HOME WHERE THE WIFE HAD BEEN DRIVEN OUT.

One day, on our last ride, we rode directly across to Bonnar's landing. Mr. and Mrs. John Bonnar had bought and settled on a very fertile piece of land. At that time there was not much cleared; later they had a beautiful home. Mr. Ray Peckham and wife also had bought a good farm near Mr. Bonnar's. This day Mary and I rode around all the homes out on that road, then came down and took the road leading out to Long Lake, near Font Lake. Our horses were walking, Mary was pointing out and telling me about the people that lived on this road. We soon came to a home that it seemed to me I had seen before. I said, "Mary, who lived here?" "Oh, this is where Mr. H---- lived; the man who treated his wife so badly because she did not like it when he brought home another wife." We tied our horses and walked about the yard. Yes, here was the home. There were the rose bushes about the windows, the flowers down the walk, a mountain ash with its red berries, the vegetable garden at the back of the house with the currant and gooseberry bushes. I looked a long time, seeing it all in my mind as the woman had told me her story. I could see the man and woman standing together in the door while the wife was hurrying away to her mother for sympathy. I could not keep the tears back. Mary saw I felt sad and said, "Why do you cry? Are you lonesome for the friends you have left in your old home?" I said, "No, I am crying because I have heard the story about the woman. She told it to me herself." "Oh yes, I remember hearing ma tell me about this woman. She says she thinks it was the most cruel joke Strang ever planned." (Strang always called such things jokes.) Over there is where her father and mother lived and way over there (pointing to the woods) is where that deaf and dumb sister of her's lived. We walked over to the woods. The little log cabin stood almost hid by the trees and bushes. It had a more deserted look than the rest of the houses. Bushes and weeds were right up to the door. Mary said no one had ever lived in it since the deaf and dumb man had died and his wife and children had gone away. We hurried away. It gave us such a gloomy feeling. We were glad to come back where the sun was shining.

TIGER'S GRAVE.

Mary said, "Come, I will show you old Tiger's grave, where the woman and her deaf and dumb sister buried him after Mr. H---- shot him for his faithfulness to his mistress." We stood beside the spot where the wronged wife had buried her faithful dog. She had planted a rose bush beside it. There were many beautiful roses on the bush that season. Tiger's grave was near the shore of little Font Lake at the place where he pulled his mistress from a watery grave. We then rode down through Enoch, and there Mary pointed to a grave with a beautiful lilac bush at its head with a white picket fence about it. That is where the mother of four young girls is buried. It almost broke their hearts to go away and leave their mother's grave. They had asked Mary to see to it sometimes, which she had promised to do.

THE JOHNSON HOUSE.

Mary said, "Now just one more place to go and see before we go home." We rode around pretty Font Lake, soon coming to a large two story and a half house, built very near the sloping shore of the lake. We tied our horses, walking down the path to the water. There were seats in among the small cedars, which grew thickly about. The house was still in good repair. "This is the Johnson House. The people were rich. He was a merchant living in Buffalo. The King and 'Douglas' went to their home and soon persuaded them to sell and come here. They built this house, and out there you can see the large barn. They brought their horses and carriages. They brought their dead daughter's body and buried it out there on that little knoll." I looked and saw the white railing about the lonely grave with rose bushes at the head. We went up stairs and saw the large dancing hall with its waxed floors which were still glossy. She told me how beautifully it had been furnished. The parlors and all the rooms were large. Rose bushes grew near the windows, flower gardens with blooming flowers. The setting sun was shining through the windows; the house was clean and it seemed the occupants had just cleaned house and not yet arranged the furniture. It had such a bright, cheerful look. Some city visitors had lived there all summer. Yes, these people were another disappointed family. They had a very handsome daughter highly educated and a fine musician. Strang and "Douglass" used to go there to the parties given, the family not knowing at first that "Charles Douglas" was a woman, that being another one of the king's jokes. Mr. Wentworth married this daughter and the king's visits became disagreeable to the young wife. This caused hard feelings and may have been one of the reasons for Wentworth's shooting the king. We hurried home as the sun was sinking in the west, and I wanted to get away from all these empty houses, for every one seemed like an open grave. I staid with Mary all night and her mother told me many things about their life on the island.

MRS. CAMPBELL'S STORY.

"We had a comfortable home in New York State near to where many more of our neighbors who came with us lived. Strang himself, with two more apostles, were traveling through the country preaching and telling about the rich beautiful country they had found. We went to hear them, and, like many others, were greatly pleased. Strang did most of the talking himself. He was a brilliant talker. He had such a bright, cheerful manner we were won from the first. We sold our home, the other neighbors doing the same, and in a short time started for the 'Promised Land.' When we reached here we found nothing as it had been represented to us. The island was in its wild natural state. A few had cleared some land and were struggling along the best they could. Our first winter was a hard one, and I cannot bear to think how sadly we were disappointed. When I asked Strang why we had not been told the truth he always turned it off in some way, talking so encouragingly and always making us see the brightest side. Life became busy, as we had a large family dependent upon us. We had some money saved and bought this land and built this house, which you see is large and comfortable. Our children were sent to school and we were beginning to feel quite contented. I often went to hear Strang preach, but I did not feel satisfied, his doctrine did not sound the same as he told it to us before we left our old home, and he was having so many 'New Revelations' that I soon lost what little belief I had ever had in the doctrine. Somehow it was different from what my old family Bible taught me, but I said very little about it at first, although a few of us women used to say Strang had too many revelations to be true. He never spoke anything to me about them, but often spoke to other women he called upon. Very soon he preached in the temple that he had a new revelation that all the apostles and officers in the Church of Zion must take more wives, and had already taken more himself. This preaching stirred us women up, as he had preached before against polygamy, and about this time I found the king was urging my husband to accept a high office in the church. I called upon the king, asking if this was all true that we heard. He answered in a very decided tone, 'Yes, it is true, and the law will be enforced if you do not quietly submit.' I told him I would never submit or consent to another woman coming into my house while I lived. He said, 'You are not yet high enough in the faith to understand the true meaning of being sealed to spiritual wives.' Well, I tell you I was mad. I went home, and in a few days I joined with several other women. We went to the temple, I carrying my family Bible, and there we faced the King. We women talked faster than he could. He tried to have us stopped but could not. You know how it all ended; I was sorry to see him killed, yet I knew something terrible would happen to him and I told him so when I talked that day. I said such things cannot go on any longer. All these homes would not be empty had Strang lived according to the doctrine he preached to us before we sold our old homes and came here; we would have been a happy, contented people, but his teachings were all false from beginning to end, and he has suffered the same fate of Joseph Smith, whose example he followed. I know there were bad men influencing him to do all this. It might have been for the purpose of getting rid of him so they themselves could take his place. It is all ended and I am glad I never knew anything more about Mormonism than I have since I came here."

BURNING OF THE MORMON TEMPLE.

At the time the Mormons left the island the temple was left standing. The excitement was so great and the Gentiles feared the Mormons might return with another leader in Strang's place, so they thought best to burn the temple. It was of the exact pattern as the one at Kirtland, Ohio, as Strang had built it after the same plans. The building was all up and inclosed, but not yet finished. The large room used for preaching was also used for the council room.

ROCKY MOUNTAIN OR INDIAN POINT.