Chapter 15

A New Departure--Farewell to the Boats--Out to the World Through Kanab Canyon--A Midnight Ride--At the Innupin Picavu--Prof. Reconnoitres the Shewits Country--Winter Quarters in Kanab--Making the Preliminary Map--Another New Year--Across a High Divide in a Snow-storm--Down the Sevier in Winter--The Last Summons 242

Index 269

ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING PAGE

The Grand Canyon _Frontispiece_

Looking south from the Kaibab Plateau, North Rim, near the head of Bright Angel Creek, the canyon of which is seen in the foreground. The San Francisco Mountains are in the distance. On the South Rim to the right, out of the picture, is the location of the Hotel Tovar. The width of the canyon at top in this region is about twelve miles, with a depth of near 6000 feet on the north side, and over 5000 on the south. Total length, including Marble Canyon division, 283 miles.

Sketch made in colour on the spot by F. S. Dellenbaugh, June 4, 1903.

The Toll 1

Unidentified skeleton found April, 1906, by C. C. Spaulding in the Grand Canyon 300 feet above the river, some miles below Bright Angel trail. There were daily papers in the pocket of the clothes of the early spring of 1900.

Photograph by Kolb Bros. 1906, Grand Canyon, Arizona.

Red Canyon 6

Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.

Before the Start at Green River City, Wyoming 9

The dark box open. Andy, Clem, Beaman, Prof. Steward, Cap., Frank, Jones, Jack, the Major, Fred, _Cañonita_, _Emma Dean_, _Nellie Powell_.

Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.

Flaming Gorge 17

The beginning of the Colorado River Canyons, N. E. Utah.

Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.

Horseshoe Canyon 21

Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.

Red Canyon 25

Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.

Red Canyon 28

Ashley Falls from below.

Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.

In Red Canyon Park 29

Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.

The Head of the Canyon of Lodore 34

Just inside the gate.

Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.

Canyon of Lodore 37

Low water.

Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1874.

The Heart of Lodore 40

F. S. Dellenbaugh.

Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.

Canyon of Lodore--Dunn's Cliff 43

2800 feet above river.

Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.

Canyon of Lodore 44

Jones, Hillers, Dellenbaugh.

Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.

Echo Park 49

Mouth of Yampa River in foreground, Green River on right.

Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.

Whirlpool Canyon 54

Mouth of Bishop Creek--Fourth of July camp.

Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.

Split Mountain Canyon 59

Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.

Canyon of Desolation 81

Steward.

Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.

Colorado River White Salmon 98

Photograph by the Denver, Colorado Canyon and Pacific Railway Survey under Robert Brewster Stanton, 1889.

Dellenbaugh Butte 102

Near mouth of San Rafael.

Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.

Labyrinth Canyon--Bowknot Bend 108

The great loop is behind the spectator.

Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.

Stillwater Canyon 110

Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.

Cataract Canyon 119

Clement Powell.

Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.

Cataract Canyon 128

Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.

Narrow Canyon 133

Photograph by Best Expedition, 1891.

Mouth of the Fremont River (Dirty Devil) 135

Photograph by the Brown Expedition, 1889.

Glen Canyon 140

Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.

Looking Down Upon Glen Canyon 142

Cut through homogeneous sandstone.

Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Colo. Riv. Exp.

Tom 147

A typical Navajo. Tom became educated and no longer looked like an Indian.

Photograph by Wittick.

Glen Canyon 149

Sentinel Rock--about 300 feet high.

Photograph by E. O. Beaman, 1871.

The Grand Canyon 162

From Havasupai Point, South Rim, showing Inner Gorge.

From a sketch in colour by F. S. Dellenbaugh, 1907.

The Grand Canyon 168

From South Rim near Bright Angel Creek.

The Grand Canyon 174

From part way down south side above Bright Angel Creek.

Winsor Castle, the Defensive House at Pipe Springs 186

Photograph by H. Arthur Pomroy, 1903.

Little Zion Valley, or the Mookoontoweap, Upper Virgin River 186

Photograph by H. Arthur Pomroy, 1903.

In the Unknown Country 195

Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1872.

Navajo Mountain From Near Kaiparowits Peak 201

Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1872.

Tantalus Creek 206

Tributary of Fremont River.

Photograph by J. K. Hillers.

Example of Lakes on the Aquarius Plateau 211

Photograph by J. K. Hillers.

The Grand Canyon 215

Near mouth of Shinumo Creek. The river is in flood and the water is "colorado."

Sketch made in colour on the spot by F. S. Dellenbaugh, July 26, 1907.

Marble Canyon 219

Thompson.

Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1872.

Canyon of the Little Colorado 222

Photograph by C. Barthelmess.

The Grand Canyon 224

From just below the Little Colorado.

Photograph by J. K. Hillers, 1872.

The Grand Canyon 227

Running the Sockdologer.

From a sketch afterwards by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

The Grand Canyon 232

From top of Granite, south side near Bright Angel Creek.

The Grand Canyon 238

Character of river in rapids.

Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh, 1907.

The Grand Canyon 242

At a rapid--low water.

The Grand Canyon 248

At the bottom near foot of Bass Trail.

The Grand Canyon 254

From north side near foot of Toroweap Valley, Uinkaret District.

Photograph by J. K. Hillers.

The Grand Canyon 258

Storm effect from South Rim.

MAPS

A. Map by the U. S. War Department, 1868. Supplied by the courtesy of General Mackenzie, U. S. A., showing the knowledge of the Colorado River basin just before Major Powell began operations. The topography above the junction of the Green and Grand is largely pictorial and approximate. The white space from the San Rafael to the mouth of the Virgin is the unknown country referred to in this volume which was investigated in 1871-72-73. Preliminary maps B, C, and D at pages 244-46, and 207 respectively, partly give the results of the work which filled in this area. 95

B. Preliminary map of a portion of the southern part of the unknown country indicated by blank space on Map A, at page 95, showing the Hurricane Ledge, Uinkaret and Shewits Mountains and the course of the Grand Canyon from the mouth of Kanab Canyon to the Grand Wash. The Howlands and Dunn left the first expedition at Catastrophe Rapid at the sharp bend a few miles below the intersection of the river and longitude 113° 30', climbed out to the north and were killed near Mt. Dellenbaugh. 244

C. Preliminary map of a portion of the central part of the unknown country indicated by the blank space on Map A, at page 95, showing the Kaibab Plateau, mouth of the Paria, Echo Peaks, House Rock Valley and the course of part of Glen Canyon and of Marble Canyon and the Grand Canyon to the mouth of the Kanab Canyon. El Vado is at the western intersection of the 37th parallel and the Colorado River, and Kanab is in the upper left-hand corner of the map--just above the 37th parallel which is the boundary between Utah and Arizona. The words "Old Spanish Trail from Santa Fé to Los Angeles" near El Vado were added in Washington and are incorrect. The old Spanish trail crossed at Gunnison Crossing far north of this point which was barely known before 1858. 246

D. Preliminary map of a portion of the northern part of the unknown country indicated by the blank space on Map A, at page 95, showing the course of part of Glen Canyon, the mouth of the Fremont (Dirty Devil) River, the Henry (Unknown) Mountains, and the trail of the first known party of white men to cross this area. The Escalante River which was mistaken for the Dirty Devil enters the Colorado just above the first letter "o" of Colorado at the bottom of the map. The Dirty Devil enters from the north at the upper right-hand side. 207

E. Showing results of recent re-survey of part of the Grand Canyon near Bright Angel Creek by the Geological Survey with ample time for detail. Compare with Map C at page 246--the south end of Kaibab Plateau. 250

A CANYON VOYAGE