CHAPTER XX

KAMINA--LOME--HOME

We were expected in Kamina by our old friend Baron Codelli von Fahnenfeld, and by the baroness, his wife, a young woman of about my own age, whom he had recently brought out from Europe, a new-wed bride, to share his home and fortunes in this out-of-the-way corner of the German colonial empire.

All the week long I had been looking forward to this meeting with the wife of one of my best friends, and picturing it in the rosiest colours. We should have so much to say to each other, I said to myself, for I had been so long cut off from all association with my own sex--the meeting with Mrs. Dehn at Sokode being only a casual one--that I was simply dying for a good long chat about--well, about the things women love to talk of. Yet now, when the hour had come for our mutual introduction, I felt a strange kind of bashfulness creep over me. I had been so long in the bush, practically cut off from civilised society. True, I had met a few men. But then men friends and acquaintances are so different from women friends and acquaintances. They are less critical; more apt to take one at one's own valuation.

Shall I like her? What is she like? Shall we get on together? The questions one woman always asks herself of another woman whom she hopes to favourably impress, surged uppermost. But my doubts and fears were quickly dispelled. A tall, graceful girl, golden-haired and blue-eyed, advanced towards me with hands outstretched in warm welcome. Soon we were deep in an earnest, animated conversation; she asking all sorts of questions about the "back of the beyond" of the country that was now her home; I anxious to hear the latest "gup" of Berlin, of Paris, of Vienna. But there was one piece of information that I wanted to acquire, now and at once, that to me was all-important, and at the risk of being thought ill-mannered, I blurted out the personal query: "My boxes? My treasured boxes? What had become of them?"

It will be remembered that a wire had been forwarded to us by post-runner from Mangu, telling us of their destruction by a fire that had burned down Baron von Codelli's house at Kamina while he was away in Europe. Since then we had received several more or less contradictory reports from his employés. Some personal luggage had been rescued from the flames, we were told at one time; at another, the rumour reached us that everything that was on the premises when the fire broke out had gone up in smoke. Now, to my unbounded relief and delight, I learnt that all the boxes containing my personal belongings were safe; only a few parcels containing hats, lingerie, and comparatively valueless articles of personal apparel, had been burned.

I owed their safety, it transpired, to the efforts of my black boy, Kabrischika, who had been with me during our stay at Kamina on the upward journey, and who had become very much attached to me. It appeared that a big grass fire was burning near Kamina, and that a sudden change in the strength and direction of the wind had sent it, roaring and raging, straight for Codelli's house, which was of wood, thatched with many thicknesses of straw for coolness. The house was unoccupied, of course, and, it being the end of the dry season, about as inflammable as a box of matches. Kabrischika, quick to realise the danger, had dashed through the flames and smoke and lugged my boxes out of danger. He knew them, it seemed, because they were new; my name, which was stamped in big letters upon each one of them, meaning nothing to him.

We spent ten days in Kamina, recuperating, and filming the big wireless station which Codelli is building there, and about which I wrote in an earlier chapter. I was amazed at the progress which had been made during our six months' absence. Kamina itself had changed utterly; had grown tremendously. Everywhere were substantial stone houses; mostly finished and ready for occupation, some few in course of erection. The great steel towers, and the immense power-station, were finished, contrasting curiously with the little wattle and straw huts that had lodged the hundreds of workmen, whose labours were now nearing completion. When the dynamos and turbines are installed, which they will be by the time this book is in print, Kamina will be able to talk direct with Berlin, 3450 miles distant. Even during my stay there, although messages could not yet be transmitted, they could be received, and each morning on our breakfast-table there lay a little type-written broadsheet, our morning paper as it were, summarising for us the news that had come through to the station overnight. In this way we knew what was happening in Europe, almost as quickly as if we had been living in, say, London, or Paris, or Berlin.

I need hardly say, however, that it is not for such comparatively trivial purposes as these that this powerful installation has been erected in the heart of the wilderness. The wireless station at Kamina is intended to be the chief receiving and distributing centre for the whole of Africa; so far, that is to say, as Germany is concerned. It will communicate with the similar but smaller wireless station in the Cameroons, and also with that at Windhuk in German South-West Africa, as well as with Tabora in German East Africa. Furthermore, it will in course of time constitute one of the principal links in the chain of wireless stations with which Germany, like Britain, is seeking to girdle the globe; connecting her East and West African possessions with German New Guinea, with Samoa, and with the German protectorate of Kiao-Chau, in the Chinese province of Shantung, which she holds from China on a ninety-nine years' lease since January 1898.

A little railway connects Codelli's house with the northern part of Kamina, where the receiving station is, and we used frequently to remark, after dinner: "Now let us go up and listen to what they have got to say in Berlin." It was, to me at all events, very weird and wonderful to be able to place the receiver to my ears, and listen to sounds having their origin at a point between three or four thousand miles away. No words, of course, were audible, only the short and long sounds of the Morse code; but I soon learnt enough to be able to understand the purport, at all events, of what was coming through. The signals sound very much like musical notes--a series of notes all of the same tone and pitch--played on an ordinary whistle. This particular brand of wireless is called in German the _telefunken_, meaning "sounding spark"; and this exactly describes it. Sounding sparks! That is what you are listening to.

The temporary receiving station, by the way, is the same building that served me for a house during our stay in Kamina on the upward journey, six months previously. It gave me quite a shock on my first visit to it this time, to find the little home I had decorated and fitted up so comfortably--we rigged up our studio here, you will remember--now all bare and desolate, and filled with complicated wireless instruments. Presently, I got another kind of shock, an unpleasant one. I remarked to Codelli how dusty everything was, and he replied quite gravely that that was so, it wanted a woman's deft hand; and, handing me a cloth, he asked me if I would be so good as to wipe things over a bit with it, while he adjusted the instruments. At the same time he pointed to two little metal points, saying that it was important that every speck of dust should be removed from these if the working was to be satisfactory. In my innocence I did my best to carry out his instructions, with the result that I suffered a mild sort of electrocution. It was merely a practical joke of Codelli's, and not enough electricity passed through me to hurt me, but it gave me a rare start nevertheless.

I was, as I have already said, greatly interested in this wonderful wireless installation; but I fear that I was also fully as much interested--trivial though the confession must sound--in a new nickel-plated collapsible dressing-table that the Baroness Codelli had brought with her from Berlin. It was the first time for six months that I had been able to see myself full length in a large mirror, and only a woman can realise what this means to a woman. When I was first left alone with it, I scrutinised myself closely and anxiously, turning this way and that, peering close and drawing back. On the whole the inspection was eminently satisfactory. My figure was fuller, rounder, and harder, my face also had filled out; otherwise, I was surprised to find how slight a difference half a year's roughing it in the wilds had made in my personal appearance. Why, I have frequently been more sunburnt after a week at the seaside, than I was by this long trek through tropical Togoland. One reason for this was the care one always takes to shade one's face from the sun's rays while on the march; not, however, in order to preserve one's complexion, but with a view to avoiding sunstroke. During the first part of my journey, I always wore, when in the saddle, or out-of-doors even temporarily, a big slouch hat of the cowboy type, but afterwards I discarded this for the pith helmet, than which no more effectual safeguard against heat apoplexy has yet been devised.

While their new stone house was in course of erection, the Baron and Baroness Codelli had taken possession temporarily of the "Stranger's House," a building set apart for the use of stray visitors to the place who may be in want of accommodation, corresponding, in point of fact, to the rest-houses of the up-country stations, but somewhat more solidly constructed, and having a cement floor. There were, however, two rooms completed in their new stone house, and these Codelli very kindly placed at our disposal. But I, with the lately awakened instinct of the bush woman, preferred to camp out in a small grass-and-wattle hut, with only a mat curtain between myself and the outer air.

This was all very well for a couple of days. But the rainy season was now near at hand, and on the third day one of those tornadoes, which always precede the great rains, came on to blow. The wind set in motion great clouds of dust, which filled my frail dwelling, and after a short, sharp struggle between pride and inclination, the latter won, and I took refuge behind stone walls. A day or two later great black clouds came rolling up, threatening to break in one of those terrific tropical thunderstorms of which I had heard such lurid accounts. Still, however, the rain held off; indeed, I was assured, that Kamina had been exceptionally fortunate in respect to its freedom from these storms since the wireless station had been erected, the theory being that the nine great steel towers in some way repelled the electric fluid. Whether this theory has any scientific foundation in fact, I am, of course, unable to say, but everybody seemed agreed that though all round the station might be black, the sky overhead of Kamina was for the most part clear.

At length the time came to say good-bye. Our heavy baggage had arrived from Sokode, and all was ready to entrain. Our horses, none the worse for their journey through the fly belt, had already been sent by rail to Lome, there to await shipment to Accra. The two ostriches had been sent on by road, in charge of their boys. There remained only our pet monkey, Anton, and him I presented to the Baroness Codelli. This time we took care to lay in a proper stock of provisions for the train journey, so that it was at least endurable, if not enjoyable; and the rain coming down just when it was beginning to get uncomfortably hot, still further helped to mitigate the discomfort of what is at best a somewhat tedious and trying trip.

At Lome we were to film the opening scene of our drama, _The White Goddess of the Wangora_. We had already filmed all the other parts, but the reader will of course understand that in cinema work the scenes are not photographed consecutively; at least not necessarily so. In this first scene, it will be remembered, I am supposed to be cast up by the sea from a wreck as a baby and found by some black savages, and the problem was whereabouts along the Togo coast were we to get a white child of the proper age. It was the problem that had been haunting us at the back of our minds ever since the beginning of the trip. Now it had got to be solved somehow or other.

Various suggestions were brought forward, and gravely discussed. Could we use a doll; and if so, could a sufficiently large and lifelike doll be had in Lome? Would it be possible to paint a black baby white without injury to the infant? Meanwhile Alfred, our interpreter, had spread the news of what was wanted throughout Lome, and soon babies of all sorts and sizes, accompanied of course by their mothers, began to roll up. None of them, however, suited our requirements. Some were too big; all were too black: nor were we able to find any mother who could be induced to regard the whitewashing scheme in a sufficiently favourable light to lend her own offspring for the experiment. They all knew somebody else who had a baby they would no doubt be willing to lend for the purpose, but when it came to the point the "somebody else" invariably declined most emphatically to do anything of the kind. It really looked at one time as if we should have to film the scene at some English seaside resort, with a squad of burnt-cork beach "niggers" as supers, an obviously most unsatisfactory alternative. Just, however, as we were beginning to despair, a coast girl turned up with a half-caste, khaki-coloured infant, of about the right age; and which Hodgson opined might be made, by the liberal use of a powder puff, to come out white on the film.

But when the scheme was explained to the mother, I could see that her enthusiasm for it waned rapidly. The baby was to be hidden in a box close to the edge of the surf. Yes-s-s! That was all very well. But suppose one big wave come roll up, sweep baby away? What then? Oh! No! No! No! And she clasped the little chocolate-coloured coon to her bosom. There was a lot more palaver, but at length she gave a reluctant consent. She was to be paid a sovereign for the loan of the infant, and the clothes we provided, and which cost another ten shillings, were to be hers to keep when all was over. Moreover, while the scene was being filmed, she was to stand on one side of the camera, and I on the other, so that we could both rush into the sea together to the rescue in case of anything untoward happening. As a matter of fact nothing did happen. The scene was filmed on the beach outside Lome, a time being chosen when there was nobody about. We were, however, honoured by the presence of the Governor, H.H. the Duke of Mecklenburg, who expressed himself as being both surprised and pleased at the way we had drilled our black supers to act their parts.

Our time passed very pleasantly in Lome. We had horses lent us by a friend of ours, Lieutenant Manns, and used to go for rides round the neighbourhood. The sea, too, was a source of never-ending pleasure and delight to me, since first I caught a whiff of it towards the end of our railway journey from Atakpame. We used to take walks along the beach by moonlight, and Lome, beneath its silvery enchantment, seemed to me an altogether ideal place of residence. In the daytime, when the sun beat down upon it, and all was glare and dust, I held quite the reverse opinion.

Herr Vollbehr, the famous Munich portrait painter, happened to be in Lome while we were there, and he expressed a wish to paint me in the native dress I wore whilst playing in the _White Goddess_ drama. So I gave him some sittings in the gardens of the Duke of Mecklenburg's palace, and I am told that the picture turned out very well, and has been much admired at Munich, where it is now on exhibition. The Governor's palace, by the way, is quite the finest building in Lome, as indeed is only right. It is four-square, built round a central courtyard, and must have cost no end of money. It is quite new, like all the other buildings in Lome, for not so very many years ago--some seventeen or eighteen, I believe--this town had no existence, at all events as the capital of Togoland, which was then fixed at a place called Little Popo, at the eastern extremity of the Togo seaboard.

The great drawback to Lome as a port is the heavy surf which breaks almost incessantly on the low sandy beach, as indeed it does all along the West African coast. Different methods of minimising the inconvenience caused by this hindrance have been adopted at different places. At Accra they have built a breakwater, which has cost a small fortune, and is not, I hear, a great success. At Lome they have gone the other way to work, and have erected a pier, or bridge, right out into the sea, a third of a mile long, and connected with a massive wharf, or quay, at the seaward end. This simplifies greatly the problem of landing, although it has its drawbacks. One is that there are now no surf boats there, or very few at all events, and the natives, I am told, are forgetting how to handle them, even if any were available. So when, some years back, the bridge which connects the wharf with the shore was destroyed by a tidal wave, supposed to be due to some great submarine volcanic upheaval, Lome was almost entirely isolated from the outside world for a while. However, with commendable energy, the authorities there soon set to work to rebuild their bridge; but because they could not build it over the old foundations, it now takes a curved course, which gives it a somewhat curious, lopsided appearance.

For the rest there is not much to say about Lome. It is a clean and neat little place, like most of our German colonial towns, with well-laidout streets shaded by palm and other trees, and bordered by pretty little bungalows, or, in some cases, more substantially built stone houses, set in well-kept tropical gardens. The native population of Lome, however, did not impress me favourably. The up-country native is a gentleman; the coast native is, too often, a caricature of the street "corner boy" of London or Berlin. Far be it from me, a mere girl, and a stranger and a sojourner in the colony at that, to set myself up as a judge in such matters; but it seems to me that the negro is not fitted for education, in the sense that we in Europe generally understand that much-abused word. Certain it is that no white man I ever came across, who knew his Africa, would hire as a "boy" one of the mission-school type of negro; he would infinitely prefer the wildest bush native from the remotest part of the hinterland.

At last the morning of the 13th of March dawned, the day on which we were to say good-bye to Africa. Frankly I felt sorry. I had come here six months previously, timid, and not a little apprehensive. There had been times since, up in the lonely bush, when, weary with travel and weakened with fever, I would have given anything to have gone to sleep and waked in Europe. But not now. All these feelings were over and done with, and in their place was a consuming regret for the things I was leaving behind, that were passing out of my life; the long lone trail leading onward, and ever onward, through lands new and strange; the black peoples of the far interior unspoilt by civilisation, an interesting study always; the stillness of the tropic night, the stir of the tropic dawn.

We had previously paid off our boys, of course, but all those that were in Lome at the time came down to the pier head to see us off. They were sorry to part with us. One could see it in their black faces, for the negro is nothing but a big child, and his features reflect every passing mood. "You will come back, little mother," they called out in unison, as the screw began to revolve. "Yes," I answered gravely, "I will come back." And I meant what I said. Shall I ever be in a position to redeem my promise, I wonder? Well! well! Time will show!

One thing rather pleased me. None of our boys were left stranded; they all got jobs. Alfred, our interpreter, and Asmani, Schomburgk's personal servant, took service with Baron Codelli at Kamina. Messa, the cook, got employment in the Duke of Mecklenburg's kitchen. Indeed, no boy who has been for any length of time with Europeans, and has a good character, need be long out of employment in Togo. A character, however, is an essential thing; and curiously enough they all seemed to prefer my written recommendation to Schomburgk's. I suppose it was because they had other characters from European men, and wanted to add to their collection one from a European woman, in case others of my sex wanted their services later. Schomburgk, however, said that a woman's recommendation always goes further than a man's, because prospective employers argue in this way: "Oh! so this boy has served under a woman, has he? Well, I'll engage him, because a boy who can stick a woman, can stick anybody--even me." Of course, this was said by way of a joke; but like a good many words spoken in jest, there is a certain amount of truth underlying these. Anyway, I believe it to be a fact that West African personal boys, kitchen boys, and so on, do not care over much to take service with a woman.

The ship that bore us back to England was named the _Eleonore Woermamm_. She was a good staunch boat, and very seaworthy and steady, like all those belonging to this fine line; but as we were steaming against "the trades," we had a rather rough passage to Las Palmas. There was a pleasant break here, and I went ashore to the "Stranger's Club," where I played roulette for the first time. I knew nothing whatever of the game, and threw down a coin at haphazard, and with the usual luck of the novice I won again and again. In ten minutes I was the richer by £7, and was already beginning to have visions of a golden fortune ahead, when the screeching of the ship's siren called me hurriedly aboard.

The rest of the voyage was uneventful up to the last day. Then, when we were nearing Southampton, we had the very narrowest escape--so I was assured--of going to the bottom. We were seated at dinner, all in the highest spirits at the successful termination of our trip, when the steamer suddenly sounded three sharp, angry blasts, then started to heel over to starboard, sending all the plates and dishes with their contents flying into our laps. Another steamer, it appeared, had come right across our bows, and only the presence of mind of the officer on the bridge of the _Eleonore Woermamm_ in putting the wheel hard a-port, and so causing our ship to describe a circle to starboard, had averted what would otherwise almost certainly have been a very terrible disaster.

INDEX

Accra, 286, 303, 307

Agbandi, 62; native giant at, 63

Aledjo, beauty and healthfulness of, 85; mission station at, 86; grass fires at, 87, 281

Alfred, our interpreter, 54, 102, 103, 169, 244, 309

Anâ, native village, 57, 60

Antelope, 134, 151, 152, 153

Arrows, poisoned, European shot by, 142

Ashantis, 159

Asmani, Schomburgk's personal "boy," 179, 229, 309

Atakpame, 28; Catholic Mission at, 50, 63, 186, 275, 284, 286, 295

Audassi, 66

Babies, native, 270

Bafilo, the bairam festival at, 90; cotton industry at, 92; artificial "pearls" made at, 95, 251

Banjeli, 237; beautiful situation of, 238; arrival of mail at, 241; a pig purchased at, 242; punishing carriers at, 244; chief of, 245, 249, 250

Bapure, 112

Bassari, 239, 241; iron market at, 247, 250, 251; station house at, 252; Mr. Muckè, Sub-District Commissioner of, 252; our house at, 253; I entertain the wives of the Mallam Mohammed at, 257, 291

Bats, a plague of, 139; as food, 225

Beapabe, native town, 251

Bedford, Duke of, 19

Beer, native, 111

Bees, wild, 259

Beetles, beautiful, 240

Berger, Dr., 57 _et seq._

Betrothals in infancy of native girls, 264

Birds, valuable feather-bearing in Northern Togo, 149, 150, 154

_Bremen_, S.M.S., 26

Buffalo, 20

Butter, native, 139

Bwete, native village, 145

Cameras, damage to by heat, 136

Cameroons, wireless station in, 299

Chameleons, 209

"Chief's mail," 184, 185

Childbirth amongst native women, 268

Children, native, government education of, 290

Cinema acting, on board ship, 21; in Madeira, 24; at Kamina, 33; at Paratau, 77; at Lome, 305

Cooking, native, 275

Corn-bins, curious, at Tschopowa, 224

Cotton industry, native, 92 _et seq._

Cowrie shells, as money, 97

Crocodiles, 145, 189, 190

Dagomba tribe, 214

Dahomeyans, 159

Death, native ceremonies at, 261, 262

Dedaure, Mallam of, 288

Dehn, Mr. and Mrs., 291

Djabotaure, 64; adventure at, 65, 293

Djereponi, 208

_Elegante Welt_, German fashion paper, 241

_Eleonore Woermamm_, mail steamer, 310, 311

Elephants, 18; old spoor of, 121

Fahnenfeld, Baron Codelli von, 29, 31, 36, 47, 196, 292, 296; Baroness Codelli, 297, 301, 302

Fetish groves, hidden practices in, 273

Fever, 36, 101, 108

Films, industrial, at Bafilo, 92 _et seq._, 97; ethnological, at Mangu, 136; travel, at Sumbu, 191; historical, at Mangu, 200, 201; Konkombwa, 218; hippopotami, 225; iron industry, at Banjeli, 246; at Bassari, 257

Fishing by natives in the Oti, 135

Francolin, a kind of partridge, 134, 149

Fulani, 137, 156, 159, 180

Fulbe, 137

Gerin-kuka, boisterous welcome to by the Konkombwa people, 115; rest-house at, 117; native "songu" at, 118

Gourma, 138, 141, 142, 168, 176

Grass fires, 143, 146

Grey, Hon. W. H., 286

Grouse, remarkable incident in connection with, 206

Gruner, Dr., 140

Hagenbeck, Carl, 19

Hammock travelling, delights of in the African bush, 61; being "sea-sick" in one, 66, 185

Harmattan, 76; at Mangu, 131; a meteorological mystery, 198

Hausas, 202, 203, 219, 225

"Hausa load," 243

_Henny Woermamm_, mail steamer, 21, 22, 26

Hippopotami, 123, 146, 185 _et seq._, 225

---- pygmy, 19, 185

Hirschfeld, Captain von, 125, 127, 128, 132, 133, 137, 140, 143, 155, 199, 203, 205, 243, 253

Hodgson, James, our camera man, 20, 50, 52, 97, 99, 100, 101, 119, 123, 124, 135, 136, 148, 150, 152, 156, 172, 174, 187, 189, 203, 206, 216, 225, 233, 237, 250, 256, 305

Horses, our, waiting for us near Sokode, 67; am badly kicked by my favourite one, 83; accident to one, 109, 195, 286

Hyena trapped, 138

Ibubu, native village, 233; "Roman Fort" at, 233; trouble with carriers at, 235; arrest of chief of, 239; woman carriers from, 239, 243

Insect pests, 38, 134

Iron industry, native, at Banjeli, 245 _et seq._

Jewellery, native, 260

Johnston, Sir Harry, 248

Joyce, Atho, Mr., 248

Kabre Mountains, 137

Kabrischika, native boy, saves my baggage from fire, 298

Kabu, welcome hospitality at, 111

Kabures, native tribe, 63

Kaiser's birthday, 203

Kamaa, river, 253, 280

Kamina, wireless station at, 29; my house at, 29; life at, 30 _et seq._; an adventure, 48, 196, 292, 295, 296 _et seq._

Kara, river, 122

Katscha, river, 250, 251

Kersting, Dr., 70, 85, 90, 234, 252, 254

Kola nuts, 219, 259

Konkombwa, first contact with, 112; boisterous welcome by at Gerin-Kuka, 115, 138, 147, 211 _et seq._; dancers, 217 _et seq._, 231, 234, 236, 239, 247

Kuepers, Mr., Government schoolmaster at Sokode, 68, 278, 286, 288, 289, 292

Kugnau, native village, 227; incident with the Konkombwa at, 231, 232, 237

Lange, Mr., engineer, 57

Las Palmas, 25, 310

Leopard, adventure with a, 100, 194, 196

Lizards, 38, 194

Lome, capital and port of Togo, 21, 27, 184, 253, 284, 303, 304, 305, 307

Madeira, 21 _et seq._, 196

Magu, native village, 147, 197

Malfakasa, 280; the outlaw of, 283

Mallam Mohammed, of Bassari, 257; his house, 258; his wives, 259

Mangu, northernmost Government station in Togo, 125; Mohammedans in, 130; timber plantations in, 130; new station house at, 131; climate of, 131; Christmas at, 133; New Year's Eve festivities at, 133; trees destroyed by beetles at, 134; prisoners, native, at, 137; stone quarry at, 137; plague of bats at, 139; native soldiers at, 199, 200; filming Togo history at, 201, 202; celebrating the Kaiser's birthday at, 203; departure from, 205, 251, 278

Manns, Lieutenant, 306

Marabou stork, discovered in Togo by Major Schomburgk, 154; feathers, 154

Marriage customs, native, 264

Mashukulumbwe people, anecdote concerning, 115

Massow House, at Bassari, 252

Mecklenburg, Duke of, Governor of Togo, 28, 51, 141, 231, 232, 305, 306, 309

Messa, our cook, supposed desertion of, 53 _et seq._; returns with a young wife, 55; he annexes our dining-table, 84, 160, 169, 180, 230, 277, 278, 309

Monkey, our pet, 146, 243, 303

Monkeys, wild, 47; shooting a "dog" monkey, 96

Mosquitoes, 31, 122, 144, 229

Moving Picture Sales Agency, London, 184, 286

Muckè, Mr., of Bassari, 252, 254, 255, 256, 292

Natives, as "supers," 33; averse to being photographed, 33; views of on matrimony, &c., 42 _et seq._; perversity of, 51; as carriers, 112; wars, inter-tribal, 200; as handicraftsmen, 247; school for at Bassari, 258; at Sokode, 288

Najo, native village, 197

Nambiri, 209; village chief of, 213, 249

Nebel, Mr. Kay H., 67; accident while acting with, 77, 88, 89; leaves for Europe, 91

Njamassila, 60

"Odd Man Out," dramatic film, 21, 24, 91, 92

Ostriches, 203, 234, 246, 303

Oti, river, 122, 126, 134, 141, 144, 147, 148, 151, 156, 185, 188, 192, 227, 233

"Outlaw of the Sudu Mountains," dramatic film, 86; accident while rehearsing in, 88

Oysters, fresh-water, in the Oti River, 192

"Palaver," a woman, 101 _et seq._; a man, 104; at Unyogo, over a soldier's wife, 207

Panscheli, native village, 142, 185, 186, 188

Paratau, 69; native market at, 73; children at, 74; an unhealthy camp, 76, 278, 282, 291

Parpart, Herr von, 261, 285, 291

Plantations, timber, near Mangu, 130; near Bassari, 254

Poisons, kinds used by natives on their arrows, 142

Polygamy, 267

Porteous, Dr., 143

Potatoes, a luxury in Togo, 278

Quinine, importance of in West Africa, 50

Ramadam, Mohammedan fast, 65

Rentzel, Lieutenant von, 28

Royal Anthropological Institute, 201

Royal Geographical Society, 201, 248

Salt, paying carriers in, 118; as currency, value of in Northern Togo, 161, 171

Schomburgk, Major Hans, 17 _et seq._, 31, 32, 34, 35, 36, 38, 40, 50, 52, 55, 57, 61, 72, 78, 85, 88, 89, 95, 97, 100, 102, 104, 106, 110, 113, 115, 121, 123, 131, 134, 139, 140, 141, 144, 146, 147, 149, 152, 156, 170, 190, 195, 196, 203, 211, 223, 225, 227, 233, 236, 245, 252, 287

Sleeping sickness, 287

Soap, native made, 267

Sokode, 68, 103, 159, 186, 234, 261, 283, 284, 285, 288, 292

Soldiers, native, 199, 200

"Songu," native rest-house, 137

Sumbu, native village, 156, 164 _et seq._; inhabitants of, 171, 177

Snakes, adventure with a venomous, 100, 183

Sudu Mountains, 284

Tabalo Mountain, 282

Tamberma Fort, 128; and people, 129, 130, 202

Tax, head, native, 129

Teneriffe, 25

"Tick-birds," 188

Tim plain, 284

Tschaudjo, native tribe, 69 _et seq._; clever horsemanship of, 73; mounted supers, 77, 265, 274, 285

Tschokossi, native tribe, 128, 141, 145, 147, 156, 168, 176, 185, 192, 201, 265, 274

Tschopowa, welcome by natives to, 221; ceremonial dance at, 222; marabou feathers worn by natives at, 222, 223; big baobab tree at, 224; curious corn-bins at, 225; bats at, 225

Tsetse-fly, 284, 287

Turtles in the Oti River, 190

Unyogo, 205; a "woman palaver" at, 207

Uro Djabo, paramount chief of the Tschaudjo, 69 _et seq._, 213

Uro-Ganedo-Bo, 282

Village, native, remarkable fortified, 164 _et seq._

Vultures as scavengers, 98, 139

Vollbehr, Herr, paints my portrait, 306

Widows, hard fate of, 274

Wedding ceremonies, native, 265

"White Goddess of the Wangora," dramatic film, 32 _et seq._, 90, 304

Windhuk, wireless station at, 299

Wireless telegraphy between Kamina and Berlin, 300

Women and girls, native, 40 _et seq._; a young philosopher, 45; filming the life of a native wife, 46; women weavers at Bafilo, 94; "abduction" of a girl, 102; modesty of, 105; wild at Sumbu, 164, 175, 200; Konkombwa at Nambiri, 215; a conjugal quarrel, 216; as carriers, 238, 239; slaves as iron miners at Banjeli, 246; marriage customs, 264; infant betrothals, 264; illegitimate births, customs regarding, 264, 265; wedding ceremonies, 265, 266; polygamy, 267; childbirth, 268; fetish women, 272; introcision, rite of, 272; initiation ceremonies at puberty, 273

"Zoo," London, two of Major Schomburgk's pygmy "hippos" in, 19; Hamburg, 187, 235

Printed by BALLANTYNE, HANSON & CO. at Paul's Work, Edinburgh

Transcribers' Notes:

Punctuation and spelling were made consistent when a predominant preference was found in this book; otherwise they were not changed.

Simple typographical errors were corrected; occasional unbalanced quotation marks retained.

Ambiguous hyphens at the ends of lines were retained; inconsistent hyphenation retained when there was no predominant usage.

Original book spelled "Ramadan" as "Ramadam" three times, and as "Ramadan" once; none changed.

In the Foreword, "Woermamm" is a misspelling for "Woermann".

Page 88: "eerie" may be a misprint for "eyrie".