Part 3

After the shelf is fitted into its place in the cabinet, you will find that at one end you have a convenient little tray to hold such things as chalk-line, rule, pencils, and other small things that are always getting out of sight when you most need them. The plan for _A_ is just six inches above lower shelf (or bottom of cabinet).

N. B. All measurements now are inside measurements.

_B_ is twenty-two and one fourth inches long and two and one half inches wide. Draw a line down the middle of this strip (i. e., one and one fourth inches from each side). Measure one inch from left-hand end and mark. Then from this point on pencil line measure one and one half inches and mark again. Repeat this until you have six points marked on the pencil line, with one and one half inch spaces between. From the last point measure one inch, and mark. Repeat at intervals of one inch until you have thirteen with inch spaces. This should leave about three fourths of an inch on right end.

On the first six marks (those one and one half inches apart) bore five eighths inch auger holes. These are for tool sockets. First two for the chisels you have already; next three for the chisels or gouges you may have; the last for the screwdriver.

There must be doors for the tools to enter by; so you must cut openings one half inch wide from the front of shelf to each hole. This is easily done with your cross-cut saw, leaving spaces as in drawing.

You have still thirteen marks with inch spaces. Bore nine holes a trifle larger than the shanks of the bits you are to place therein; three of these bits you already have; the other six spaces are for the bits you are likely to purchase by and by.

The four remaining marks are for holes graduated in size, thus: First, one with three eighths inch bit (one of those belonging to smaller set); second, with one fourth inch; third and fourth, with the next smaller sizes; each bit going into a hole a size larger than itself. These smaller bits go in _point down_. It will be a great convenience to mark the numbers of the bits on the shelf against their sockets.

Shelf _B_ is to be nailed twenty and one fourth inches above shelf _A_.

Now for shelf _C_. Ten inches from left-hand end, put small one half inch block for same purpose as similar block on shelf _A_; i. e., to keep plane from sliding. Nail shelf _C_ three inches above shelf _A_ in left-hand side of cabinet. This little shelf of course does not reach across the cabinet like the others.

Six and one fourth inches above shelf _C_, and four inches from left-hand side of cabinet, bore hole with one half inch bit, which shall have a slant downward. Parallel to this, and eight inches to the right, make another hole just like it. Insert in these holes wooden pegs two inches long. Be sure they fit firmly with back of cabinet. These pegs are for the draw-shave to hang upon, as seen in diagram.

Ten and three fourth inches above shelf _A_, and three inches from right-hand side, make one half inch hole slanting down; one and one half inches beyond make another; insert pegs three inches long. These are for the mallet.

The body of the cabinet is now fitted, and we will go to work on the cover.

Take two blocks one inch square and one and one half inches long; draw a line lengthwise exactly in the centre of each; cut down the line one half inch deep the length of block. Put one of these blocks slit uppermost on bottom shelf of door four inches from left-hand corner. Five and one half inches to the right, put the other; fasten into place with screws.

Twenty-one inches above first block, four and one half inches from side of door, put block one inch square, one and one half inches long. This goes on horizontally, parallel with lower block. In centre of this make small hole, say one fourth inch deep, with smallest bit.

Make a second block just like it, and place five and one half inches to the right of the first one.

Then from one half inch wood, cut two little strips two inches long, one half inch wide, for buttons. In the middle bore hole large enough for screw to turn freely; attach to middle of upper blocks with screws. The tips of the saw-blades go into the slits in the lower blocks. The openings in the handles slip over the wooden buttons which you have just made, and which are horizontal when the saws are put on, and are then turned like the button on a barn door to hold the saws firmly in place.

Now we must provide for the hatchet, so it will not get harm nor do harm.

Take block of one inch wood, five inches long, three inches wide; plane one half of one face in a slant from the middle, so one edge will be three fourths thick, leaving one half the block one inch thick, as at first. Bore two holes in the half that is still square, big enough for two screws to go through and fasten on to lower shelf or bottom of door. This block in its place is one inch wide at the bottom, and three fourths inches at top, leaving a kind of bevel five inches long for hatchet-blade, between block and back of door. Put hatchet in; hold it upright and mark where handle needs support to keep it horizontal; probably about nine inches from blade; with screws fasten on two small brackets, or else put in slanting pegs, if you do not care about the looks outside.

Four inches from top, and five and one half inches from left-hand side, put similar bracket or peg; three and one half inches further, on the same line, put another; these will serve to support the bit brace, and I have left enough room for the keyhole-saw, which you can see in the diagram, and which some time you will like to own.

Now cut a piece of wood three inches long, two inches wide, and three fourths inches thick; draw line across one end and down the edge two inches long.

Cut this line out as you did for the slits for the saws, and then (slit up of course) with two screws put through the lower part, fasten block at point ten inches from right-hand side, just far enough above the saws to clear them. This is for the try square, the slit being for the blade.

Fifteen inches from left-hand side, and four inches from top, put a bracket; on the same line, one and one half inches farther from the left side, put another; these are for the hammer.

You now have all your tools in place. You will in all probability have had some tools in the house before we began, such as pincers, gimlets, perhaps a saw; but of course I have not a list of those things.

So I have simply given you a good deal of room to put them in, and by this time you ought to know how to secure them in their places.

VII.—HINGES AND LOCK.

TO make the tool cabinet complete there must be hinges and a lock. These you can get at a hardware store. Ask for hinges for three quarters inch wood, and about three inches long; you will need three hinges, and the screws to fit the holes. Brass hinges are best, and look neater and more tasteful than iron, though iron will do. If the screws don’t come with the hinges, then look out some that will fit, from your stock on hand.

The first thing for you to settle is which way you wish the cabinet to open; i. e. to the right as in the diagram, or to the left as might be if the only place for your cabinet happened to be a corner which would not admit of opening to the right. Suppose the door is to open to the right. Find the middle of the front edge of the right hand side of _cabinet_. Mark across the edge, then measure one and one half inches _each way_ from that line and mark. This is the place for the middle hinge. Five inches from the lower corner on the same side, and five inches from the upper corner measure and mark; then measure three inches further from these last lines and mark; these are for upper and lower hinges. In these three spaces, so marked, cut out rectangles as deep as the thickness of one wing of the hinge.

Repeat these measurements, markings and cuttings on the _left_ hand side of cover or door. Be careful in measuring so that the two halves of the cabinet will come together and exactly match.

Now to put on the hinges: Take one hinge, shut it together _tight_, so as to be sure you are folding it the right way; then open till the wings are at right angles. Lay _left_ wing into space cut for it in _right_ side of cabinet. Take care to have the wing fit neatly, letting the round edge of hinge project. Screw firmly into place. Put all the hinges in place on the cabinet before beginning on the cover.

Now lay the cabinet down flat on your workbench, or on the floor. Put the cover down beside it, with a bit of board or blocks underneath thick enough to bring the hinge places of the door on a level with those of the cabinet. Then fasten the _right_ hand wings of hinges into the places prepared on the _left_ side of door. Be careful, as before, to have the round part of hinge project so that it will work freely and have the _wings flush_ with inside of cabinet and door.

When open, there will be a narrow space between the door and cabinet, but when closed they will fit tight.

Now for a fastening: If you simply wish to keep the cabinet closed when not in use, you can put a hook on the door, the eye on the cabinet. If however you wish to lock up your tools for safe keeping, you must invest in a good lock and key. The best sort for your purpose is what is called a chest-lock. (_Fig. 1._) They come in various sizes, so I can’t give exact measurements. It must of course go in the middle of the side opposite the hinges.

As you look at the lock you will see that one face is smooth, and the other side, where you find the keyhole, is irregular. This irregular part is the one that sets into the wood. From the inside of cabinet (opposite the middle hinge) cut a place to correspond in size with the lock so that it will fit neatly. The opening for the key must of course be cut through on to the outside of cabinet. Be careful to do this neatly and cut out no more than is needful for the key to pass in freely.

By and by, on a bit of nicer work, I will tell you how to put on a scutcheon to guard the keyhole, but it isn’t necessary for this. The other part of the lock which has the tongue, or tongues, is fitted into the door of the cabinet in the same way; the tongues of course projecting from the edge of the side. Be careful to have them come exactly opposite the openings for them in the cabinet side. _You cannot be too exact in carpentry._ The next thing is to fasten the cabinet securely against the wall. Of course you can stand it on the end of your bench, but it is better on the wall.

You will need four strips of brass four inches long, one inch wide, and about one eighth thick, with four holes for screws bored in each piece. Two of these go on the top corners, and two on the lower corners of cabinet. Put them on so that the screws will go through into the inch-thick side of cabinet, not merely into the thinner back. Half the length of the brass piece with two holes must project above on the upper corners, and below on lower corners. (_Fig. 2._)

You will want some one to hold the cabinet steady for you while you secure it with long heavy screws, two at each corner. Of course your tools are not in the cabinet while you are at work upon it.

One word of caution: If the cabinet is to go in a corner, leave a few inches (i. e. the thickness of the door) measured outside between the wall and hinges, or you’ll find you can’t open the door.

If you have carefully followed all the directions, you have now a good, plain, serviceable tool cabinet.

If you would like to stain it, which would improve the looks, I will try to tell you how. You must not get discouraged if the first attempt doesn’t turn out very well, for one must practise even to stain well; but the cabinet is a good thing to start with. Of course the staining is easier done before the cabinet is hung; but a neat workman can do it on the wall.

First determine the color you wish your stain to be. I should say black walnut, as it is the easiest to put on, and you will not be likely to tire of it. The quantities I give will do more than the cabinet; but if stoppered tight will keep for future use, and for very small quantities you have to pay exorbitant prices.

I haven’t much faith in home-made stains; they cost about as much, and are not very satisfactory. At any oil or paint shop, get a quart of stain, which will cost forty or fifty cents; one fourth pound _clear_ glue for sizing—this ought not to be more than eight or nine cents; one quart nice varnish (what is called _inside_ coach varnish is the best), this will cost about seventy-five cents; at same time get a small piece of putty, same color as the stain; the man at the paint shop where you get your stain, will color the putty for you. With this colored putty fill up all holes made by nail heads or screws.

If you are on good terms with a painter, he will likely enough lend you a couple of brushes. If you have to buy them, get one large and one small, costing from fifty to seventy-five cents.

See that the surface of the cabinet is free from dust; to make sure, wipe inside and out with soft cloth. Stir the stain up thoroughly from the bottom of the can with a small stick; repeat this frequently, otherwise your stain will not be even colored.

With the large brush put on one coat of stain, remembering always to draw the brush in _one direction_ and _with the grain_ of the wood.

Put on as evenly as possible; always pat and press the brush on the side of the can so it will not drip, otherwise your stain will be streaky. Let this dry thoroughly for half a day where no dust is flying. Prepare the size by melting glue in warm water, add boiling water till thin and smooth, then add a spoonful of lime water.

Clean the stain brush in warm water and use it for the size; one coat put on evenly so as to cover every part stained; clean your brush again in warm water. Next day put on the varnish; this requires especial care. It must be a _thin_, _even_ coat if you wish to have a creditable job. It is worth taking pains. It ought to have a day or two to dry in a place where no dust is flying.

If you are in a hurry, you can use shellac, which dries almost instantly; but for this very reason, is much harder to put on well. I always prefer the coach varnish.

The small brush is handy for the shelves and corners.

Make a neat job, and don’t let the size or the varnish get into lumps in the corners.

VIII.—CURTAIN POLES.

PERHAPS this paper will sound more like upholstery than carpentry, but there is carpentry in it, and of the sort too that boy-carpenters can do just as well as men-carpenters, and make changes in accordance to the requirement of the windows for which they are planning, the material at hand and their own taste. Always remember that mere rules for such work are not enough, and that you must keep on hand a good supply of _common sense_.

If you should look in the yellow-covered Farmer’s Almanac, hanging by a loop in the chimney corner, you’d see, “About this time look out for clearing weather;” that means clearing out and cleaning up and setting the house in order inside, as well as old Mother Earth outside: what our mothers call “spring cleaning.” Curtains come down to be washed and put up again, and it’s a good time, too, to put up curtains where there never have been any, for nothing makes a room look more homelike and inviting than drapery of some sort or other, no matter how simple.

It used to be the fashion to tack curtains across the top of a window-frame with a strip of stamped brass-work called a cornice, or a bit of bright chintz, or turkey red, or something like a ruffle, to cover the edges; but curtain poles, or rods and rings, are the fashion now. They are prettier than the other things, and have one advantage beside: the curtains can be pushed quite to one side when one wants more air or light, and can be drawn close together again when more perfect shade is needed.

Suppose you want to fix up your own room to look pretty and not cost very much. I found it good fun to make something useful out of something other people had discarded as useless. I’ll tell you how I made my room look cosey, and what I did it with. It had just one window, a half-dormer as they call it, and looked to the west, out over the hills; but the sun shone in very bright and hot in the afternoon, and I had to have a dark shade which I fitted myself from one that had belonged to a larger window. It kept the sun out, but it was not pretty, and I was determined to have some draperies. Of course I could not make curtains, for a boy is more handy with a hammer than a needle; but when mother found what I was up to, she said she’d give me the curtains if I could do all the rest. They were very simple, just cream-colored Nottingham lace, and cost $1.00. They might have been made of unbleached strainer cloth at six cents a yard, with a ruffle, if this had been for your mother or sister who didn’t mind sewing; but it is the pole I mean to tell you about.

I’m sure to look at it you would never guess what that pole was, or where I got it.

Up in the attic, in one corner, I found an old United States map, so old, so out of date that as a map it had been useless for years and years, for it was printed when the State of Ohio was “way out West.” The map used to hang in grandfather’s library half a century ago. It had black rollers with acorn knobs on the ends. I thought right away that the smooth slender pole would be just the thing for a curtain pole if I could get the map off without splitting the roller which was of soft pine stained black. A sharp knife and a little care did it. One of the knobs was easily loosened. Then I measured carefully over my window and cut the pole the right length and fitted the knobs smoothly into place. A little sandpaper and a coat of varnish made my stained pine roller look like ebony. But what was I to do for curtain rings! The pole was too slender for the heavy wooden rings sold by the dozen at the upholsterer’s; besides I did not want to spend any money. Back to the attic I went and rummaged in what we call the “trumpery box,” full of the odds and ends that accumulate in an old house. Among a lot of brass knobs and hooks and hinges, I came across a lot of dingy metal rings tied together with a bit of stout string. The rings were about an inch and a half across; I could not tell what the rings were made of, they were so black, but I thought a good washing would bring out the complexion, so I put the rings into a bath of ammonia and soda, which soon showed that under the black coating was something very much like brass. A stiff brush and a little fine pummice gave me a dozen glittering rings, six for each curtain. I divided the curtains evenly; with strong thread fastened the rings in place on the upper edge of each curtain and slipped them on to the pole. Two inches from the ends of the pole I screwed the little rings through which the cord had passed when the map was hung. A little hook at each end of the upper window frame served to hang my pole, which of course was very light, but heavy enough for muslin or lace. In the same “trumpery box” I found two brass knobs (door knobs, I guess they were). I screwed one of these each side of the window and looped back my curtains. There was my window, as new-fashioned or as old-fashioned as you choose to call it, but very pretty and inexpensive.

There are few old houses in the country that would not give at least as much to work with as I had. The old rollers on old-fashioned paper shades, such as you will find in lots of up-country attics, would make just as good poles stained and varnished. Even the acorn caps are not essential, for many of the most fashionable _portieres_ and curtain poles, nowadays, especially those of bamboo, have no caps at all on the ends: only then you put a screw in at right angles, to keep the end ring from coming off.

That was the first curtain pole that I put up. The next room I tried my hand on had a bay with three windows, and was harder to manage, but it did not cost very much after all. I saw an advertisement of an odd lot of curtain poles with rings and brackets complete for seventy-five cents apiece. Since then I have seen them advertised for sixty cents, which is cheaper than you can get the wood and turn them for yourself.

I found that two poles would do for the three windows, for the side windows were narrow, and half a pole was enough for each. I only wanted two ends instead of the four that belonged with the poles, so a trifle was allowed, enough to give me some extra rings and two extra brackets.

The first thing to do was to get the angle of the bay: this I did with some mathematical instruments, but you might not have those handy, and this way will give it near enough. Take a good-sized piece of stiff paper (stout wrapping paper will do), lay a straight edge on the floor against the mop-board of the middle window, and fold the end of the paper to exactly fit the side mop-board, something like this. Then fold the straight edges together and you will have the angle shown in the dotted line.

Measure length of middle and side windows and cut the poles at the angle shown by the folded paper: a few brads will secure the slanting ends when they are neatly put together.

The brackets that come with these cheap poles are iron spikes bent up at one end. Two are used for each pole; they are driven into the wall about four or five inches from the ends of the poles, and the poles rest on the brackets; of course the joined corners count as ends, and are supported in the same way. Some prefer to put ring-headed screws into the poles and slip the rings over the ends of the spikes; and more expensive poles have brass “cup brackets” which of course are ornamental, but also expensive.

The wooden rings have ring screws on which to fasten the curtains. The number used is a matter of taste and depends upon the stuff the curtains are made of, the size of the folds you want, and the number of rings you have. Five or six do very well for a yard-wide curtain. Be sure and divide evenly; put one ring at each upper corner and the rest as they come; a few stitches with coarse thread will secure them, or better still, an inch of tape slipped through the ring and fastened by the doubled ends on to the edge of the cloth. You can buy curtain hooks if you like, and have them sewed on. These are something like big dress hooks: the advantage is, that when you want to take curtains down you just unhook them from the rings without taking the poles down at all.

I know a boy who made a pretty pair of curtain-poles out of two straight, slender beech saplings; he twisted rings out of stout wire and wound them with crossway strips of dark cloth. For muslin curtains, loops of bright ribbons instead of rings would be prettier still on such rustic poles.

Would you like to know what curtains went on to my sixty-cent poles? They are very “æsthetic” in color, but are just soft Canton flannel at a shilling a yard. The centre of olive, the sides dark crimson with bands between of darker olive. These are looped away on either side with bands made of the flannel and underneath are full curtains of six-cent scrim, (unbleached).

But curtain-making belongs to the girls, so having told you how to make the poles and put them up, I will leave the rest to them.

IX.—BOOK-REST.

PERHAPS you would like now to make something useful and pretty for your father or your big brother, so I will try to tell you how to make a book-rest like one I made myself for Christmas. It has no fancy carving about it, but is made (as you can see by the illustration) of straight pieces.