Part 10
But it is within the former castle grounds that a great change is noticeable; especially at Sakura, near the spot where Ii Naosuke paid with his head the hatred of Mito. Where his yashiki stood is an elegantly built edifice of brick, a girls’ school, formerly the polytechnic, and facing the moat are a number of villas. In the first of these dwelt Sanjo during his life; next to it is the house once occupied by Shimadzu, the head of the Satsuma clan, and up the hill is the palace of Arisugawa, now in mourning, for its head died some months ago.
It is quite evident that two strong forces are working in Japan. The leaders of the people are sincere in their desire to conform more and more to occidental ideals, whereas the people are striving strenuously to return to their former habits and customs in domestic life. Both parties are impelled by the same motive, love of country. But the leaders have more experience and a wider horizon. They have been abroad, and judge occidental life, with all its virtues and vices by the results which they produced. The people know nothing of foreigners, except of such with whom they come into contact, and they have no love for them.
Thus, as an old friend expressed it to me, all our modern improvements such as tend toward enhancing the nation’s greatness and wealth, have been assimilated. Japan, to-day, could no more do without railroads, than we could do without them. It is the same with telegraph and telephone and other inventions where steam or electricity are the motive. The army and navy have been organized according to the highest standards, and will keep pace with the best of the world. Industries have been and are being organized, and receive careful protection from the government. But in the home life, the Japanese have turned back.
“The luxury of your homes,” said my friend, “tends toward enervating the race. We do not need your furniture; it is expensive and inelegant. We sleep upon our futon as well as you do upon your spring mattress. In your clothing you are the slaves of a thing you call fashion, and every year or oftener you are called upon to pay tribute to it. Who ever heard of anything so foolish? Our clothing keeps us cool in summer, and hot in winter. It is inexpensive, becoming, and leaves our limbs to their natural action; what more do we want? As to your food, I acknowledge that a meat diet is more strengthening than our usual bill of fare, and most of us indulge in it once a day. But to prepare dishes merely to tickle the palate, is both foolish and wicked. We want no waste. That is the reason why I prefer dressing in haori, hakama, and Kimono, and why I prefer to live in a Japanese house. If I, or any other Japanese, visit your country, we conform with your customs and habits, because we do not wish to give offense. When you come here, you bring your customs and habits with you, and parade them before us, regardless if you give offense or not. I think in doing so, you act wrongly or at least in bad taste.”
“You believe in doing at Rome as the Romans do,” I said smiling. “But surely one can not always do so. Excuse me, but most of your dishes are absolutely repugnant to me.”
“What does that prove, but that you are a slave to your stomach. Do you remember when we first met? It is a long time ago, but I shall never forget it. The impression of that day is still vivid within me. I had heard that a barbarian had come to live in our next door yashiki, and I wondered what sort of an animal he was. My father had told me I must be very civil when I should see you, and, of course, there was nothing for it but to mind. I had come from school when I heard steps behind me and then somebody grabbed me and I saw you. It was well that I did not wear my swords at that time, or we should not be talking here, and Japan would have paid another indemnity. You don’t know the fury you raised in me at your unceremonious introduction. Well, you dragged me in your yashiki, and placed bread, butter and sugar before me. Do you remember that, when your kadzukai came in, I asked him what those things were, and what you wanted me to do with them? He told me they were bread, oil from the cow, (niku no abura), and sugar, and were there for me to eat. Talk of repugnant! It was nauseous to me to think of such a thing as eating ‘oil from the cow.’ But when I am in America now, I enjoy my butter and sometimes help myself twice.”
“That may be,” I replied, “but for the life of me, I could not eat your raw fish, and many other dishes.”
“Pshaw! It is on account of an imagination which we call prejudice. You don’t possess the nerve to try them, and if you did from some reason, for instance false shame, they would probably upset your stomach. You could not turn my stomach in those days, child though I was, but sometimes you tried me pretty severely. When I came home that first evening, I told my father all about you, and if you had heard my description, I do not think that you would have felt flattered. But he told me to cultivate your acquaintance, and his word was law.
“It took me sometime to grow accustomed to--to--, well, I shall draw it mild, to your lack of manners and of good breeding. But then, as my father explained to me, you were only a barbarian, and without any education; and you were, or tried to be, kind; I appreciated that. So you taught me English, and I taught you Japanese, and you tested my self-control by the funny mistakes you made. Let me see how long is that ago? Twenty-six years? How long will it be before you can speak Japanese, do you think?”
“Come, that is rather rough on me,” I laughed. “I find I can get along very well.”
“Yes? I always did admire my fellow-countrymen. They have now another claim to my regard. I speak in Japanese with you for the sake of old times; but, do you know that I sometimes need all my equanimity to bear with the way in which you murder our language. Sometimes you use expressions as if I were your superior in rank; that is all right and proper; but when, a moment late, you hurl a word at my head fit only for a coolie or a servant, I admire the perfect control I have of my temper. No!” he continued slowly and looking thoughtfully at me, “I don’t think you will ever learn Japanese.”
“I am satisfied with what I know,” I replied, “but if my use of your tongue shocks your ear, I am willing to converse in English, and I promise you that I shall not criticize either your pronunciation or grammar.”
He bowed ceremoniously and replied: “No, thank you! When I am in the United States, or in England, I speak English and try to act as regardless of the feelings of others as your fellow Anglo-Saxons act. As soon as I begin to think in English, it seems as if I forget that I am a Japanese gentleman.”
“You must have mastered our language better than I have yours, then, for when I speak in Japanese I can never bring myself to use those elegant circumlocutions which we call by a name which to us has an ugly sound.”
This time it was my friend’s turn to laugh. “Do you remember when poor Kato first came to see you? We were at our lessons, and he to do you honor had spent a few days in learning the phrases: ‘I have heard of your famous name,’ and ‘I am happy to see your face.’ He came in and recited those two sentences in very fair English, I thought. I see you jumping up yet. What a spitfire you were! Poor Kato! He did not know what to make of it. You roared: ‘Now, what is the use of talking that way? You never heard of my name, for it is not famous, and you don’t care about my face any more than I care about yours.’ Kato’s stock of English was exhausted, and he politely requested me to come to his assistance. Well, I had manners if you had not, so I told him that you were overpowered at the honor of his call, and that this was your manner to invite him to make himself at home.”
“So that was the reason that fellow bored me until eleven o’clock. I owe you one for that!”
“Yes? We paid you foreigners well in those days, more than we could really afford, but most of you were worth the money. Not on account of the duties you performed, not always satisfactorily but generally to the best of your ability, but on account of the never failing amusement you afforded us. At a time when you thought yourself a fair Japanese scholar I have heard you criticized right before you, and you were as unconscious as a babe.”
“Don’t you think that you show by what you say the real difference between you and our race. By your own confession, I showed you kindness, and, my memory deceives me badly, or you reciprocated to some extent my friendship for you. Yet you could stand by and patiently listen to an adverse criticism of one who was your friend, and, instead of resenting it, as I would have done in a similar case, you could be amused by it.”
“Ah! but you forget. At that time you were still an object of suspicion to us. Shimonoseki and Kagoshima were recent recollections, and we were eating humble-pie. It is different now. We know your strength and your weakness and we know also our own strength, and we can magnanimously condescend to treat you as our equals. At that time the whole nation dissembled; we hated you and every foreigner, although we treated you so as to flatter your conceit. It does not raise a people in its own eyes when it forces itself to discard, even for a time, its national pride, and pretend to honor those whom it despises and hates. I tell you, my old friend, I am proud of my country and of my people. We passed through a fiery ordeal, and came out purified. But I acknowledge also that the fire has left scars which only time can heal. We are growing better, not worse. The fact that we two still find pleasure in each other’s company proves that we are better able to appreciate each other’s good qualities, and that is a type of the feeling of Japan toward foreign nations.”
NOTES
_Meanings and Pronunciation of Japanese Words used in the Text._
1. Pron. Day-shee-mah, little island.
2. Pron. Nang-ah-sah-kee.
3. Pron. Shoh-goon. General-in-chief.
4. Pron. Die-mee-yoh. This word means Great Name.
5. Pron. Sah-moo-rye.
6. Pron. Yed-doh, now Tokyo (pron. To-kee-yoh), or Eastern Capital. Yedo was the capital of Old Japan, from 1600 to 1868.
7. Pron. Kee-yoh-toh, the real capital of Old Japan.
8. Pron. Ten-shee Sah-mah. Lord of Heaven.
9. Pron. Toh-koo-ngah-wah.
10. Pron. Ee-yay-yas.
11. Pron. Say-kee-gah-hah-rah.
12. Pron. Moh-ree.
13. Pron. Cho-shu, in the southwest part of the Island of Hondo, the mainland of Japan.
14. Pron. yash-kee.
15. Pron. Ee-yay-meets.
16. Pron. Moots′-shtoh.
17. Pron. hah-kah-mah, loose trousers, part of the dress reserved to knights and nobles.
18. Pron. kah-yah-kee, a hardwood.
19. Pron. show-jee.
20. Pron. ah-may.
21. Pron. hee-bat-chee, a charcoal brazier, to warm the hands or light the pipe.
22. Pron. keé-moh-noh.
23. Pron. Hie, hie! meaning “yes” or “coming”.
24. I have translated the conversations in intelligible English. To give the forms of self-abasement of the speaker, and the titles of honor to the person addressed, would sound ridiculous to us.
25. Pron. On-nah Die-gah-koo, a book giving the rules for married women.
26. Pron. sah-kee.
27. Pron. Hat′ toh ree.
28. Pron. mets′ kay, an official spy, appointed by the Shogun government.
29. Pron. Go-roh-jiu (_u_ the French sound), Hon. Great Council which issued all orders from the Shogun to the great Daimiyo.
30. Pron. Sah-wah.
31. Pron. noh-ree-moh-noh, a sort of sedan chair.
32. Pron. Ee-toh.
33. Pron. Toh-kie-doh, the great highway running from Tokyo to Kyoto.
34. Pron. Mee-toh and I-dzoo, two clans belonging to the Tokugawa family.
35. Pron. Ee-ee Nah-oh-skay, Daimiyo of Hikoni and regent of Japan, who was afterwards assassinated.
36. Pron. Ee-no-yay.
37. Pron. how-ree, a thin mantlet of crêpe, with the coat of arms worked on the back and sleeves.
38. Pron. Kee-ee, and Oh-wah-ree, the two estates taken from Choshiu and given to the sons of Iyeyasu.
39. Pron. Shtah nee eeroo.
40. Pron. Ay-kee-chee.
41. Pron. f′ton.
42. The legacy of Iyeyasu, the law book of Old Japan.
43. The plain, east of the Hakone Mountains which contains Yedo.
44. Pron. Nah-kah-sen-doh, another highway between Yedo and Kyoto. In the narrowest passes of both roads barriers were placed which no one could pass, except when provided with passports from the government.
45. Pron. roh-neen, a samurai who did not belong to a clan. The Yedo government held the clan responsible for the acts of its samurai.
46. Pron. Foo-jee, Kano’s chief retainer.
47. Pron. Yah-doh-yah, an inn.
48. Pron. hee-yahk-show, literally peasant.
49. Pron. Kodz′kie.
50. Pron. ee-chee-roh-koo nee-chee, literally one-six-day. Until 1874 every fifth day was a holiday for the samurai; these days were the 1st, 6th, 11th, 16th, etc.
51. O before a name means honorable. Pron. O Kee-chee.
52. Pron. tah-tah-mee, thick rush mats.
53. Pron. ree-yoh, old Japanese coin equal to about $1.00.
54. Pron. neen-zoh-koo, a coolie or day laborer.
55. Pron. yah-shwee moh-noh, the name by which the Roman Catholics were known.
56. Issued Jan. 27, 1614.
57. Pron. Ty Coon. This is really a Chinese word and means Great Prince.
58. Pron. O Ee-shah-sahn.
59. Pron. nar-rah foo-doh! which may be translated by; Is that so?--You don’t say so! and similar expressions.
60. Pron. hat′-to-bah, jetty or landing.
61. Pron. Ay-to.
62. Pron. Tay-rah-jee.
63. Pron. Kah-mee′-shee-moh.
64. Pron. sep′ poo-koo, suicide by disemboweling, commonly called hara-kiri. Pron. hah-rah′ kee-ree′.
65. Pron. Ee-yay-sah-dah.
66. Pron. Mee-toh. Of the three great Tokugawa families, Mito, Kii, and Owari, Mito, by a secret clause in Iyeyasu’s will was debarred from succeeding as Shogun.
67. Pron. Koong-ay, court nobles, descendants from former emperors, who held the same position at the court as did the councillors in the clan.
68. The Court of Tenshi sawa.
69. Pron. Son-noh Joe-ee.
70. Saru-me (pron. sah roo may), an approbrious term used to express contempt and indignation.
71. Pron. Yah-mah-toh Dah-mash-yee.
72. Pron. Kah-ras-soo Mah-roo.
73. A kuge was of much higher rank than a daimiyo, and even of the Shogun. They did not mention the daimiyo by their estate, but by their family name.
74. Pron. Mee-yah, families accounted as Princes of the Blood. Most of them were nurtured like the daimiyo, and wholly unable to think for themselves.
75. Pron. Nee-joh, one of the leading Kuge families.
76. Pron. kah-kay-moh-noh, hanging scroll.
77. Pron. Shee-mad-zoo, family name of the lord of Satsuma.
78. According to Confucius.
79. This document is quoted in F. O. Adams’ History of Japan.
80. Pron. Shee-moh-noh-say-kee.
81. Pron. Ee-chee-joe, Nee-joe, Hee-gash-ee Koo-zay.
82. Nijo refers to the repulse of the Tartars in A. D. 1281.
83. Pron. Ee-say.
84. Pron. tsoo-boh, a square measure.
85. Pron. ty-foo, our typhoon; lit. great storm.
86. A member of the Imperial family, addressing one of inferior rank of the same, uses the given name. Iwakura’s given name was Tomomi.
87. There is a street of that name in Kyoto.
88. Pron. Foo-shee-mee.
89. Pron. Cho-tay-kee, _i. e._, rebel against Tenshi Sama.
90. Pron. Kay-kee.
91. Confucius.
92. Pron. Oh-dah-wah-rah, a town at the foot of the Hakome range.
93. Pron. Oh-sah-shtoh.
94. Pron. Koh-may.
THE END
FOOTNOTES:
[A] It was the American fleet, under Commodore Perry, who was sent by President Millard Fillmore to make a treaty with Japan.
[B] In the month of September, 1854, a series of earthquakes began which lasted almost without interruption until the end of December. Twenty thousand houses and sixteen thousand fire-proof warehouses were destroyed in Yedo alone. Over 100,000 people were reported killed. Osaka and Hyozo were destroyed, and Kyoto suffered considerable damage.
[C] The Russian frigate _Diana_.
TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES:
Text in italics is surrounded by underscores: _italics_.
Obvious typographical errors have beeen corrected.
Inconsistencies in hyphenation and use of diacritical marks have been retained.
Archaic spelling which may have been in use at the time of original publication have been retained.
Errors in numbering in the Notes section have been corrected.