Part 6

To reach the refuge, go north on State Highway 14 from Upham for 2.5 miles and turn right. The headquarters is 0.3 mile ahead. Check for the usual assortment of checklists, pamphlets, and maps, including one showing the two public automobile trails. More importantly, you may pick up a trail-guide for the 22-mile scenic tour, which takes off from the headquarters, winds through the refuge, and eventually ends back on Highway 14 south of Upham. It traverses most of the major habitats.

The scenic tour passes through some very extensive marshlands which harbor, in addition to all of the common waterfowl and shorebirds, Red-necked (uncommon), Horned, Eared, Western, and Pied-billed Grebes; American White Pelican; Double-crested Cormorant (There is a nesting colony on the southern portion of the refuge.); Great Blue Heron; Black-crowned Night Heron; American Bittern; Northern Harrier; Virginia and Yellow Rails; Sora; American Coot; Ring-billed and Franklin’s Gulls; Forster’s, Common, and Black Terns; Short-eared Owl; Tree, Bank, Rough-winged, Barn, and Cliff Swallows; Purple Martin; Marsh and Sedge Wrens; Common Yellowthroat; Yellow-headed and Red-winged Blackbirds; and Le Conte’s and Sharp-tailed Sparrows.

Adjacent to many of the marshlands are wet, grassy meadows, which harbor some of the species found in the marshes and a few of their own, such as Yellow Rail, Short-eared Owl, Willow Flycatcher, Sedge Wren (very common), and Savannah, Le Conte’s, Sharp-tailed, and Song Sparrows. The Yellow Rail is rare but has been turning up with increasing frequency in the past few years. Because of its accessibility, this refuge is one of the best places to look for it.

A unique habitat found along the scenic tour is the sandhills. These tall ridges of sand, now covered by grasses and shrubs, were once a beach of glacial Lake Souris during the last ice age, about 10,000 years ago. Some of the birds to be seen while walking the sandhills (or any other open areas of the refuge) include Red-tailed and Swainson’s Hawks, American Kestrel, Sharp-tailed Grouse (There is a photo blind near a dancing ground on the refuge. To use it check with refuge personnel.), Ring-necked Pheasant, Gray Partridge, Mourning Dove, Common Nighthawk, Common Flicker, Eastern and Western Kingbirds, Say’s Phoebe (rare), Black-billed Magpie, American Crow, Mountain Bluebird (Most common as a spring migrant, but a few nest in the aspens.), Loggerhead Shrike, Brewer’s Blackbird, Common Grackle, Brown-headed Cowbird, American Goldfinch, Rufous-sided Towhee, and Vesper, Lark, and Clay-colored Sparrows. Sandhill Cranes often pass overhead in migration.

One thing which distinguishes J. Clark Salyer from the other refuges to the west is the large amount of wooded area. Most of it is composed of American elm, box elder, and green ash in stands on the bottomlands along the Souris River. However, there are large mixed stands (mostly aspen) scattered across the uplands. These woodlands (especially those along the river) are natural migrant traps for transient passerines.

Some of the regular migrants are Olive-sided Flycatcher; Red-breasted Nuthatch; Brown Creeper; Hermit, Swainson’s, and Gray-cheeked Thrushes; Golden-crowned and Ruby-crowned Kinglets; Bohemian Waxwing; Black-and-white, Tennessee, Orange-crowned, Yellow-rumped, Bay-breasted, Blackpoll, Mourning, and Wilson’s Warblers; Ovenbird; Northern Waterthrush; Rusty Blackbird; Purple Finch; and Harris’, White-crowned, White-throated, Fox, and Lincoln’s Sparrows.

Several species nest in these wooded areas. Two of the more interesting are the Wood Duck and the Hooded Merganser. Both nest either in natural cavities in trees along the river or in boxes provided by the refuge personnel. The Wood Duck is fairly common in similar habitat over the whole eastern half of the state, but this is about the only area where the Hooded Merganser may be expected.

Other woodland nesting species include Red-tailed and Cooper’s Hawks; Mourning Dove; Black-billed Cuckoo; Common Screech, Great Horned, and Long-eared Owls; Belted Kingfisher (along the river); Hairy and Downy Woodpeckers; Great Crested and Least Flycatchers; Eastern Phoebe; Eastern Pewee; American Crow; Black-capped Chickadee; White-breasted Nuthatch; House Wren; Gray Catbird; Brown Thrasher; American Robin; Cedar Waxwing; Yellow-throated, Red-eyed, and Warbling Vireos; Black-and-white (rare) and Yellow Warblers; American Redstart; Northern Oriole; Brown-headed Cowbird; Rose-breasted Grosbeak; and Chipping Sparrow.

The second tour is the grasslands trail, which crosses 5 miles of mixed-grass prairie. It is usually passable from May 1 to September 15, but it should not be driven in wet weather, although you may still walk it. Precise directions may be obtained from the map at the headquarters, or you may find it by going east from Newburg (Bottineau County) for about 4 miles and turning north. The trail is marked.

Although not very long, the trail is great for finding the prairie specialties. Watch for Red-tailed and Swainson’s Hawks; Northern Harrier; Sharp-tailed Grouse; Gray Partridge; Marbled Godwit; Upland Sandpiper; Eastern and Western Kingbirds; Horned Lark; Sprague’s Pipit; Loggerhead Shrike; Bobolink; Western Meadowlark; Dickcissel; Lark Bunting; Grasshopper, Baird’s, Savannah, Vesper, and Clay-colored Sparrows; and Lapland (migration), Smith’s (rare—migration), and Chestnut-collared Longspurs.

b) Bottineau County

The city of Bottineau is well-known in North Dakota as the gateway to the International Peace Garden, which symbolizes our long-standing friendship with Canada. More importantly to the birder, it is the gateway to the Turtle Mountains, which are actually low hills dotted with lakes and potholes surrounded by stands of aspen, poplar, birch, and oak. The west end of the mountains is just north of Bottineau, from which they extend 35 miles to the east. This popular recreation area is filled in summer with campers, boaters, fishermen, and water-skiers. The place is not nearly as crowded in winter, but you will still run across snow-skiers and those abominations of the north—the snowmobiles.

Most of the birds can be found just by exploring any accessible areas with good habitat. One specific spot which is usually rewarding is Lake Metigoshe State Park. To reach it start from 4th Street in Bottineau, go north on Main Street for 0.8 mile, and turn right at the sign for the park. Shortly you will pass the North Dakota State School of Forestry on your right. After 1.0 mile turn left (paved road). In 9.3 miles the road forks. Go straight. This road leads along a large segment of the lake, which is peppered with resorts. Continue for 4.4 miles, and turn left to the park. Camping is allowed. There are even showers, which can feel great after a long day of birding.

The best thing about the park is the excellent nature trail. It stays close to the lake shore for awhile before cutting back through the middle of the forest to the campground. The trees and secondary growth along the way are typical of those found throughout the Turtle Mountains, and so are the birds. Some of the species to be found in summer include Cooper’s, Red-tailed, and Broad-winged Hawks; Ruffed Grouse; Black-billed Cuckoo; Ruby-throated Hummingbird; Yellow-bellied Sapsucker; Hairy and Downy Woodpeckers; Great Crested, Least, and Willow Flycatchers; Eastern Pewee; Blue Jay; American Crow; Black-capped Chickadee; White-breasted Nuthatch; House Wren; Brown Thrasher; Gray Catbird; Veery; Red-eyed, Warbling, Yellow-throated, and Philadelphia Vireos; Black-and-white, Yellow, Mourning, and Chestnut-sided Warblers; Northern Waterthrush; Ovenbird; American Redstart; Northern Oriole; Rose-breasted Grosbeak; American Goldfinch; Rufous-sided Towhee (eastern form); and White-throated (rare), Chipping, and Song Sparrows. The real prize has to be the Philadelphia Vireo. This is one of the few areas in the United States where this species is known to breed. Most of its breeding range is in Canada.

If there are not many birds moving, try a Common Screech-owl imitation or tape. You may be surrounded by complaining birds in a matter of minutes. Remember to watch the lake for Common Loon, Red-necked Grebe, Ring-necked Duck, Bufflehead, and Common Goldeneye, all of which nest in the area.

After finishing the park, return to the main road and continue to the left around the lake. After 2.1 miles turn left (east) on Highway East 43 toward the Peace Gardens. Go 4.4 miles; turn right at the sign pointing to Pelican-Sandy Lakes Primitive Recreation Area. This road goes into the forest for 1.0 mile to an undeveloped area with primitive campsites. There is plenty of suitable habitat, so you should be able to find most of the birds that you found at the park, or any you missed. In summer this area will probably be less crowded, as well.

c) Rolette County

Willow Lake National Wildlife Refuge is often productive. To reach it continue east on Highway East 43 from the turn-off to Pelican-Sandy Lakes Primitive Recreation Area. After 3.1 miles you will cross the Rolette County line, which is marked. Go another mile, and turn right (south). The lake is 1.6 miles ahead on the left. The main attraction is the colony of Double-crested Cormorants. However, watch for Common Loon, grebes, American White Pelican (visitor), Great Blue Heron, and several species of waterfowl.

After checking the lake, backtrack to Highway 43 and head east for about 13 miles to the Wakopa State Game Management Area. (It may also be reached by going 0.5 mile north and 8 miles west from the town of St. John.)

This area is relatively undisturbed, and the birding is great. There are even walking trails. All of the birds common to the Turtle Mountains can be found, and this just might be the best place to look for them.

As is the case across the rest of the state, the Turtle Mountains do not offer a great diversity of winter birds. There are, however, some interesting possibilities. The large amount of well-wooded habitat combined with a geographic position on the Canada border makes the mountains a definite attraction to several rare but exciting northern birds such as Hawk, Great Gray, Boreal, and Saw-whet Owls; Northern Raven; Gray Jay; Boreal Chickadee (accidental); and White-winged Crossbill. Although the chances of finding any of these birds on any given day are slim, the potential is there. Some may be more regular than is currently thought, because not enough people bird this area in winter.

Some of the more regular winter visitors and residents here include Ruffed and Sharp-tailed Grouse; Gray Partridge; Mourning Dove; Great Horned, Snowy, Long-eared, and Short-eared Owls; Common Flicker; Hairy and Downy Woodpeckers; Horned Lark; Blue Jay; Black-billed Magpie; Black-capped Chickadee; White-breasted and Red-breasted Nuthatches; Brown Creeper; Cedar and Bohemian Waxwings; European Starling; House Sparrow; Evening and Pine Grosbeaks; Purple Finch; Pine Siskin; American Goldfinch; Common and Hoary Redpolls; Red Crossbill; and Snow Bunting. Of course, you will be doing well to find half of these species on any given trip, because many of them are decidedly cyclic in their wanderings.

Just as there is no one spot to go in the Turtle Mountains to find all of the summer residents, there is no one place to be recommended for winter. Both Lake Metigoshe State Park and Pelican-Sandy Lakes Primitive Recreation Area are good if road conditions allow entry. Usually, you will come out ahead by following the plowed roads and the good habitat.

d) Cavalier County

Rush Lake, a large marsh encompassing several thousand acres, is ideal for viewing waterfowl, shorebirds, and marsh species. To reach it drive 4.0 miles west from Wales to a point surrounded by marshy inlets and water-filled ditches. You can drive as far as road conditions permit.

Although there is little open water, you should have excellent birding from spring through fall. Some of the birds to watch for are Pied-billed and Eared Grebes; all of the ducks common to the state; Great Blue Heron; Black-crowned Night Heron; American Bittern; Green Heron; Sora; Virginia Rail; American Coot; Killdeer; Semipalmated, Lesser Golden, and Black-bellied Plovers; Ruddy Turnstone; Common Snipe; Willet; Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs; Short-billed and Long-billed Dowitchers; Spotted, Solitary, Stilt, Pectoral, White-rumped, Baird’s, Least, Semipalmated, and Western (rare) Sandpipers; Dunlin; Sanderling; Marbled and Hudsonian Godwits; American Avocet; Wilson’s and Northern Phalaropes; Ring-billed and Franklin’s Gulls; Forster’s, Common, and Black Terns; all of the state’s swallows; Marsh and Sedge Wrens; Common Yellowthroat; Yellow-headed and Red-winged Blackbirds; and Le Conte’s and Sharp-tailed Sparrows. Most of the shorebirds appear only as transients, even though many may be seen throughout the summer.

e) Pembina County

The northeast sector contains many well-wooded areas. The Turtle Mountains probably represent the best of these in terms of birdlife; however, a similar avifauna can be found in the Pembina Hills, which lie predominantly in eastern Cavalier County and western Pembina County. The major habitat is upland, deciduous forest, with bur oak, American elm, quaking aspen, birch, and box elder being some of the predominant trees. Birding the Pembina Hills is like birding the Turtle Mountains. It is hard to pick out specific spots because there is so much good habitat.

Most of the birds occurring in the Pembina Hills can also be found in the deltaic sand area in western Pembina County (situated between the Pembina and Tongue Rivers). There are many excellent sites.

For the sake of convenience, although not technically correct, all statements concerning the Pembina Hills made in the following Specialties Section refer to the area in general including the deltaic sand area.

The best spot for finding species typical of the Pembina Hills is the Tongue River Game Management Area. To reach it start at the western of the two intersections of State Highways 5 and 32, and head north on Highway 32. Turn right (4.0 miles) and continue east to the area. After 2.5 miles you will enter the heavily forested zone. The crisscrossing auto trails allow good access.

This is a fantastic place. You may even find some Moose, which have moved into this area in the past few years. Some of the summer residents are Cooper’s, Red-tailed, and Broad-winged Hawks; Ruffed Grouse; Black-billed Cuckoo; Great Horned Owl; Ruby-throated Hummingbird; Belted Kingfisher (along the river); Common Flicker; Yellow-bellied Sapsucker; Downy and Hairy Woodpeckers; Great Crested, Willow, and Least Flycatchers; Eastern Pewee; Blue Jay; American Crow; Black-capped Chickadee; White-breasted Nuthatch; House Wren; Gray Catbird; Brown Thrasher; American Robin; Veery; Cedar Waxwing; Yellow-throated, Red-eyed, and Warbling Vireos; Black-and-white, Yellow, and Mourning Warblers; Ovenbird; Northern Waterthrush; American Redstart; Northern Oriole; Scarlet Tanager; Rose-breasted Grosbeak; Indigo Bunting; American Goldfinch; Rufous-sided Towhee; and Chipping and Song Sparrows.

In addition to the nesting species, this area attracts a number of migrants. All species listed for the wooded areas of J. Clark Salyer may also be found here. However, several of the eastern warblers (such as the Magnolia, Cape May, Black-throated Green, Blackburnian, Chestnut-sided, and Connecticut) may be easier to find at Tongue River.

Another good locale is the Gunlogson Arboretum. To reach it start at the western edge of Cavalier, go west on State Highway 5 for 5.4 miles, and turn right. The arboretum contains several diverse plant and animal communities. Most are crossed by the nature trail that leads to a small marshy area, several small springs, and a portion of the Tongue River. All of this is surrounded by an impressive array of trees that include willows, ironwood, alder, elm, oak, ash, and basswood and a lush understory of ferns, grapevines, and wildflowers.

From the standpoint of habitat and fewer people, the birding is usually better at the arboretum, but Icelandic State Park is good for migrants. To reach it continue west on Highway 5 for 0.4 mile and turn right (north) at the sign.

The Pembina Hills are good also for all of the regular winter species plus an occasional northern stray such as Northern Raven; Hawk, Great Gray, Boreal, and Saw-whet Owls; Northern Shrike; and Gray Jay. Many of the roads are closed in winter. Care should be exercised when driving-conditions are not known.

f) Walsh County

Although the northeastern sector is loaded with marshlands, there are not many along the highly agricultural Red River Valley, which has been extensively cleared of forests and drained. A few good spots remain. One is Lake Ardoch, which can be reached by starting at U.S. Highway 81 on the northern edge of Minto and going east on County Road #15 toward Warsaw. After 3.4 miles turn right (south) on a gravel road. (It may not be passable in wet weather.) After 3.8 miles you will see the lake on the right.

Check for grebes, herons, and waterfowl. Walk the marshy areas on the left for Marsh and Sedge Wrens, and Le Conte’s Sparrow. Continue straight for another 2.2 miles and turn right on the paved road. In 0.2 mile a marshy inlet from the lake is on both sides of the road. Check here for migrant shorebirds. Continue for 1.8 miles to the junction with Highway 81, just north of the town of Ardoch.

g) Grand Forks County

There are only a few remnant populations of Greater Prairie Chickens left in North Dakota. Luckily, the State Fish and Game Department has managed to buy up most of the areas still frequented by them. Two spots are in Grand Forks County. Start at the northern side of Manvel (north of Grand Forks on U.S. Highway 81) and go west on County Road #33. To reach area number one, go 9.0 miles on County Road #33 and turn left (south). For the next 3.0 miles you will be crossing suitable sections of long-grass prairie. To find area number two, backtrack to County Road #33, cross the road, and go 5.0 miles north. Turn right and for the next 4 miles watch for the chickens. (This whole area should be marked by Game Management Area signs.) Dawn is the best time, although you may luck out and find them in the late afternoon just before sundown. Watch also for Sharp-tailed Grouse and Upland Sandpiper.

A good spot for grasslands birds is Kelly’s Pasture, a small prairie area west of Grand Forks. To get there start at the underpass of I-29, go west on Highway 2 for 5.7 miles, and turn left (south). Drive 4.0 miles and pull over to the right. There should be parallel fence rows (several yards apart) running to the west. Park and walk between the fence lines. Watch in this grassy area for Sedge Wren and Grasshopper, Le Conte’s, and Clay-colored Sparrows. After about 6.0 mile the fences will stop at a large grassy field. To your left (south) there should be a small stockpond surrounded by reeds. Check the edges for Marsh and Sedge Wrens and Le Conte’s Sparrow. Be careful at all times not to cross any fence lines on the left (south) side of the trail, because all are posted.

After checking the stockpond, walk north across the open field, watching for Sharp-tailed Grouse, Upland Sandpiper, Western Meadowlark, Grasshopper and Clay-colored Sparrows, and Chestnut-collared Longspur. At dawn check any rises in the field for dancing grouse. During late summer and early fall look for Sprague’s Pipit. This species is rare here but occasionally passes through after breeding. At the north end of this field is a large stock pen. This marks the end of the area which can be walked.

Return to your car, drive 1.0 mile south, and turn left (east). For the next few miles, check all of the grassy/brushy fields for Sharp-tailed Grouse and Gray Partridge. The partridge may be seen almost anywhere, but the grouse is restricted to a few overgrown fields. Some fields have sunflowers, which may attract a number of winter birds (basically goldfinches, siskins, redpolls, and Northern Shrike).

There are several great spots near Grand Forks. The best is Kelly’s Slough. To get to it proceed to the underpass of I-29, go west on Highway 2 for 7.8 miles, and turn right (north). After 3.3 miles stop on the hill overlooking the slough.

This is a fantastic place for migrant waterfowl, waders, and shorebirds. Some of the migrants include Common (occasional) and Red-throated (accidental) Loons; Red-necked (uncommon), Horned, Eared, and Western Grebes; American White Pelican; Double-crested Cormorant; Great Egret (rare); Whistling Swan; Canada, Greater White-fronted, and Snow Geese; Common, Red-breasted (rare), and Hooded (rare) Mergansers; White-winged Scoter (rare); Redhead; Canvasback; Ring-necked Duck; Lesser and Greater (rare) Scaup; Common Goldeneye; Bufflehead; Oldsquaw (rare); Mallard; American Black Duck (rare); Gadwall; American Wigeon; Common Pintail; Green-winged and Blue-winged Teals; Northern Shoveler; Wood Duck; Semipalmated, Black-bellied, and Lesser Golden Plovers; Ruddy Turnstone; Common Snipe; Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs; Solitary, Pectoral, White-rumped, Baird’s, Least, Stilt, and Semipalmated Sandpipers; Dunlin; Short-billed and Long-billed Dowitchers; Hudsonian Godwit; Sanderling; Northern Phalarope; and Herring (uncommon) and Bonaparte’s (rare) Gulls.

Summer residents are much fewer, but many of the transient species are present from mid-summer on. Birds found throughout the summer include Pied-billed Grebe, Great Blue Heron, American Bittern, Ruddy Duck, Sora, American Coot, American Avocet, Spotted Sandpiper, Willet, Marbled Godwit, Wilson’s Phalarope, Franklin’s and Ring-billed Gulls, Black Tern, Marsh and Sedge Wrens, Red-winged and Yellow-headed Blackbirds, and Le Conte’s Sparrow.

For best results bird the slough on both the east and west sides of the road. The area to the east is better for rails, Marsh and Sedge Wrens, and Le Conte’s Sparrows, because there is more emergent vegetation. In fact, the grassy perimeter to the east end of the slough is full of Marsh Wrens and Le Conte’s Sparrows. You may have to wade a bit to get good views, but the water is only a few inches deep throughout most of this grassy area. A walk along the railroad tracks north of the slough may turn up Gray Partridge, Upland Sandpiper, and Chestnut-collared Longspur. In fall watch for Lapland Longspurs along the tracks and over the slough.

Continue north for 1.7 miles and turn right (east). During migration check for Common Snipe and rails in the ditches on the right. Watch for Chestnut-collared Longspurs as well. Drive 1.0 mile and turn right again. Mountain Bluebirds have been found during spring (March 20-30) around the farm area. Also check the surrounding fields in spring and fall for Ruddy Turnstones and Buff-breasted Sandpipers. After 0.7 mile the east end of Kelly’s Slough is on the right. At 1.8 miles you may drive west through the cluster of buildings at Kelly and check the nearby fields for Black-bellied and Lesser Golden Plovers (migration only). To continue the tour, turn left (east) at 0.2 mile past Kelly.