Part 4

Fort Lincoln State Park (about four miles south of Mandan) is worth a visit. It is not a particularly good spot for birds, although you will probably find typical upland species present. The most interesting feature of the park is its historical significance. There are three important sites: 1) the Slant Indian Village, which was once occupied by the Mandan Indians, 2) Fort McKeen Infantry Post, which was occupied by the 6th Infantry, and 3) Fort Abraham Lincoln, home of the colorful George Armstrong Custer and his famous 7th Cavalry. The two military posts were active in the late 1800’s. The park also offers an interpretive museum, picnic sites, and several modern camping sites (complete with electrical hook-ups).

Continue south on Highway 1806 for 6.0 miles to the Little Heart River. Turn left on an unmarked side road just north of the bridge. This passes under an old railway trestle and through a field of alfalfa and tall wheat grass. A colony of Sedge Wrens has nested here in recent years. This area is also dependable for Gray Partridge, Bobolink, American Goldfinch, Dickcissel, and Grasshopper Sparrow. At the field’s edge and in the woods look for Cedar Waxwing, Veery, Yellow-breasted Chat, Northern and Orchard Orioles, Lazuli Bunting, Black-headed Grosbeak, and other typical bottomland birds.

Several roads lead from Highway 1806 down to the river, some of which you may want to take in order to look for bottomlands species and migrants. Some 4.0 miles past the Little Heart River Bridge, a small road leads left to a good point for Piping Plover and Little Terns.

Another interesting spot is 6.8 miles past the bridge. Here, you will enter a small badlands with several severely eroded buttes, much like those in the extreme western part of the state. Watch for Turkey Vulture, Swainson’s and Ferruginous Hawks, Western Kingbirds, and Say’s Phoebes (rare; look near old buildings). Rock Wrens can be surprisingly common. The best way to find them is to park and walk past eroded buttes. It is just a matter of watching and listening for their distinctive series of trills.

A great place for winter birding is the Northern Great Plains Research Station in Mandan. To reach it, continue west on Main Street past Highway 1806 and turn left after one mile on Highway 6 (8th Street Northwest). Cross the railroad trestle and continue on 10th Avenue Southwest for 0.8 mile to a bridge. Just beyond, turn right at the sign.

These grounds are good for winter birding because of the conifers. Look for all of the regular winter species and for invaders such as Cedar and Bohemian Waxwings, Pine Siskins, Purple Finches, Pine (rare) and Evening Grosbeaks, Red Crossbills, and Golden-crowned Kinglets. The Townsend’s Solitaire, although rare, has been a fairly frequent visitor in recent years. The trees are good also for roosting owls. With luck, you may even turn up a Long-eared Owl.

c) Dunn County

Yet another location for migrant and nesting waterbirds is Lake Ilo National Wildlife Refuge. To reach it, start just south of the town of Killdeer at Highway 22, go east for 3.0 miles on Highway 200, and turn right at the sign.

Drive south through the mixed-grass prairie, which is good for Northern Harrier, Swainson’s Hawk, Ring-necked Pheasant, Sharp-tailed Grouse, Eastern and Western Kingbirds, Horned Lark, Lark Bunting, Lark and Grasshopper Sparrows, and Chestnut-collared Longspur. Turn left (2.0 miles) and bird until the road dead-ends at a farmhouse.

To bird the rest of the refuge, return to Highway 200 and head east again. Turn right (1.5 miles) toward the recreation area (just before the cemetery). After 0.3 mile the road forks. Go straight (keeping right) and follow the road as it heads to the lake and then makes a little square back to the road on which you entered. By taking this little loop you will get a good view of Lake Ilo. From this vantage point look for Common Loon (rare migrant), Western Grebe, American White Pelican, Double-crested Cormorant, Great Blue Heron (lake edges), Black-crowned Night Heron (lake edges), ducks and geese, and Sandhill and Whooping (rare) Cranes (migration—lake edges).

After taking the loop, turn right and drive 0.4 mile. Turn left and almost immediately swing to the right (at the fishing sign) and head toward the lake. Turn right at the sign pointing to the headquarters (0.5 mile). After 0.8 mile you may do three things: 1) turn right to the headquarters for information, 2) go straight for a different view of the lake, or 3) swing left to the slough.

The slough is the best area for birding. After swinging left, proceed for 0.8 mile, turn left, and drive for 1.1 miles past the entire marsh.

Species to be seen from spring to fall include Red-necked (rare), Horned (uncommon), Eared, Western (uncommon), and Pied-billed Grebes; Great Blue Heron; Black-crowned Night Heron; American Bittern; Mallard, Common Pintail; Blue-winged Teal; Northern Shoveler; Gadwall; American Wigeon; Ruddy Duck; American Coot; Sora; Virginia Rail; Killdeer; Spotted Sandpiper; Willet; Marbled Godwit; American Avocet; Wilson’s Phalarope; Black Tern; Belted Kingfisher; Eastern and Western Kingbirds; Barn, Cliff, and Tree Swallows; Marsh Wren; Common Yellow-throat; Red-winged, Brewer’s, and Yellow-headed Blackbirds; and Song and Savannah Sparrows. Many other ducks, shorebirds, and swallows may be seen as migrants or as occasional summer visitors.

After driving by the marsh, turn right, south for 1.0 mile, and turn right on a road through a mixed-grass prairie, which is good for Chestnut-collared Longspurs and possibly for Baird’s Sparrows.

d) Bowman County

Because of its position in the very southwestern corner of the state, Bowman County is one of the most exciting to bird. If you are going to find any truly western vagrants, your chances are better in either this county or the next two.

The best spot for both waterbirds and grasslands species is Bowman-Haley Dam National Wildlife Refuge. To reach it go north on U.S. Highway 85 from the South Dakota border for 5.3 miles, and turn right on an improved gravel road at a sign saying “Bowman-Haley Dam Recreation Area”. (This turn-off is about 11 miles south of Highway 12 near Bowman.) Go 5.0 miles east and turn right (south) at the sign saying “Point Rec Area 3 Miles”. After 2.0 miles turn left (east).

In the first mile check the roughly-plowed fields for McCown’s Longspurs in both spring and summer. After 1.3 miles the road becomes narrower and grassier and begins to loop around the lake. It should still be passable in all but wet weather. From 1.3 miles until 4.8 miles (where the road ends at a fence), you will be traversing some excellent grasslands. Most are mixed-grass prairie, but close to the lake there are tall-grass fields choked with weeds.

The mixed-grass prairie is good for nesting Sharp-tailed Grouse, Gray Partridge, Upland Sandpiper, Marbled Godwit, Burrowing Owl, Sprague’s Pipit (uncommon), Baird’s Sparrow, and Chestnut-collared Longspur. In the weedy fields where vegetation is taller and thicker, look for Bobolink, Dickcissel, and Clay-colored, Vesper, Grasshopper, and Savannah Sparrows.

For a different view of the lake, back-track to Highway 85, turn right (east), drive 3.0 miles, turn right (south), go 1.9 miles until the road forks, and swing right toward the marina. After 0.2 mile bear right. This road is good for birding, and there are picnic sites as well as room to spread your sleeping bag.

The lake is mostly open water with few marshy areas. It is not particularly good for nesting waterfowl. Nevertheless, in summer you should be able to find American White Pelicans; Double-crested Cormorants; Great Blue Herons; Ring-billed, California, and Franklin’s Gulls; and Black Terns although only the latter nests. A sprinkling of ducks use the lake in summer—both those that nest here and those from neighboring marshes. During migration, check for transient ducks, geese, and shorebirds. Short-eared Owls nest in the grassy areas.

The wooded ravines, tree lines, and shelterbelts provide habitat for migrant and nesting passerines. Look for Black-billed Cuckoo, Eastern and Western Kingbirds, Gray Catbird, Brown Thrasher, Yellow Warbler, Orchard Oriole, American Goldfinch, and Rufous-sided Towhee (spotted race).

There are two roads in the western part of Bowman County along which most of the specialties of the area can be found. The first starts from the town of Rhame (northwest of Bowman on U.S. Highway 12). From Rhame go south on a paved road for 6.0 miles. Watch for a power relay station (Slope Electric Cooperative) on the left, and turn right (west) on the next road (paved). Start watching the fields and roadsides for Northern Harrier, Swainson’s and Ferruginous Hawks, Merlin (rare), Sharp-tailed Grouse, Gray Partridge, Western Kingbird, Loggerhead Shrike, Lark Bunting, Vesper Sparrow, and McCown’s and Chestnut-collared Longspurs.

After 5.0 miles the road swings south. Stay with it for 7.0 miles, and turn right (west) on a dirt road, which starts to zigzag south just beyond a cattleguard some 2.2 miles ahead. Go 2.8 miles and watch on the right for a large field peppered with black sage. Check here in summer for Sage Grouse, Long-billed Curlew, Sage Thrasher (very rare), and Brewer’s and Lark Sparrows.

Rock Wrens and Belted Kingfishers nest in the eroded buttes by the stream, and Say’s Phoebes and Cliff Swallows nest under the bridge. Lark Buntings and Lark Sparrows are rather common.

A better road for most of these species starts at Marmarth (Slope County) and runs south to the state line. From the middle of Marmarth (The St. Charles Hotel should be on your left.), proceed west for 0.4 mile. Turn left on a gravel road which angles off just before Highway 12 swings to the right and crosses a bridge over the railroad tracks.

Heading south, you will pass a prairie-dog town on your right after 13.1 miles. This town is not very conspicuous from the road, but it is rather extensive. Watch for Black-tailed Prairie Dog, Black-footed Ferret (one was observed here in 1976), Burrowing Owl, and McCown’s Longspur.

The predominant habitat is short-grass prairie with extensive flats of black and silver sages. Some of the hillsides have lots of junipers. This is good raptor country. Look for Turkey Vulture, Northern Harrier, Swainson’s and Ferruginous Hawks, Prairie Falcon, and Golden Eagle. Harding County (directly south in South Dakota) is known as one of the best areas in that state for Golden Eagles, so it is possible that many of the eagles seen in Bowman spill over from Harding.

This road passes through some of the best habitat in the state for Sage Grouse. Sharp-tailed Grouse are also numerous. The Long-billed Curlew, although uncommon, is present each year in these sage-covered grasslands. Other species to look for are Mountain Plover (accidental); Common Nighthawk; Horned Lark; Loggerhead Shrike; Western Meadowlark; Lark Bunting; Vesper, Lark, and Brewer’s (common) Sparrows; and Chestnut-collared and McCown’s Longspurs.

Some 4.8 miles beyond the prairie-dog town, turn left on a dirt road to the Little Missouri River, where the trees and brush act as a migrant trap. During migration, it is the natural spot to turn up a western vagrant. Return to the main road and continue south for 2.2 miles to a small bridge near an eroded butte. Check for Say’s Phoebes and Cliff Swallows. Some 6.0 miles farther there is a larger bridge, where Cliff Swallows nest in good numbers, and you may find a Belted Kingfisher or a Say’s Phoebe. The state line is at the end of the bridge.

e) Slope County

If you did not find a Sage Grouse in Bowman County, try the road from Marmarth to Amidon. It is 42 miles long, and takes off from the east edge of Marmarth, where it is marked by a sign. The best area is the first six miles, where the sage is thickest. However, it may be worthwhile to drive the entire road.

While in Marmarth, check the trees in the residential area for nesting Western Pewees. One place where they have nested in the past is in the cottonwoods at the Marmarth Picnic Area. Turn left (south) off Highway 12 on the first street west of the St. Charles Hotel, drive 0.2 mile, and swing right to the small picnic area.

Stewart Lake National Wildlife Refuge is excellent for marshland and grassland birds. To get there go north from Bowman on U.S. Highway 85. After 12.0 miles turn left (west) by the flying-goose sign. After 3.0 miles turn right and cross the cattleguard toward the lake.

This refuge is rather small, but in migration the lake attracts all of the regular ducks, shorebirds, gulls (watch for California), terns, and swallows. Species which nest in the reedy borders include American Bittern, Blue-winged Teal, American Coot, Sora, Spotted Sandpiper, Wilson’s Phalarope, Black Tern, Marsh Wren, Common Yellowthroat, and Red-winged and Yellow-headed Blackbirds. In the mixed-grass prairie watch in summer for Northern Harrier; Sharp-tailed Grouse; Upland Sandpiper; Burrowing Owl; Horned Lark; Sprague’s Pipit; Loggerhead Shrike; Lark Bunting; Baird’s, Lark, and Grasshopper Sparrows; and Chestnut-collared Longspur.

Evergreen forests are limited in North Dakota, being found primarily in the badlands of the Little Missouri. Most tracts are dominated by juniper. However, in north-central Slope County a large tract of several hundred acres dominated by ponderosa pine borders the Burning Coal Vein Campground and Columnar Juniper Area.

To reach the area, continue north on Highway 85 from the turn-off to Stewart Lake for 10 miles and turn left on a gravel road at a sign for the campground. Go 0.2 mile and turn left. After 1.0 mile turn right. Stay on this road (follow the signs) for the next 10.2 miles and turn right to the campgrounds. The turn-off to the picnic area is 1.2 miles up the road.

For the past few miles you will have passed excellent stands of ponderosa pine. This hilly, forested country is more reminiscent of the Black Hills of South Dakota than of anything which one might expect to find in North Dakota. This is the only place in the state where the Yellow-rumped Warbler (Audubon’s race) nests. It can be found on practically any pine-covered slope. Its call note, a distinctive “chip”, may be of great use in locating the bird.

Other species of the pine forests include Sharp-shinned Hawk, Merlin (rare), Wild Turkey, Mourning Dove, Common Flicker (red-shafted race), Black-billed Magpie, American Crow, Red-breasted Nuthatch (rare), Brown-headed Cowbird, Rufous-sided Towhee, and Chipping Sparrow.

Another specialty of the area is the Poor-will, an uncommon breeder, which is more easily found on the periphery of the forested slopes than in the middle of them. A good place to watch and listen for it in the evenings is the area directly surrounding the Columnar Juniper Area (just up the road from the picnic site). Overlooking the spot is a pull-off which makes a good vantage point.

Check the brushy tangles at the picnic area for House Wren, Brown Thrasher, Lazuli Bunting, Rufous-sided Towhee, and Chipping and Lark Sparrows. Open flats and arid slopes surrounding the pine forest should be checked for Prairie Falcon and Say’s Phoebe.

f) Billings County

Besides being one of the most scenic, Billings County is one of the most rewarding to bird. As is the case with Bowman and Slope Counties, this county is good for western specialties and vagrants.

The two best areas can be reached from the town of Medora. The first is Sully’s Creek State Park. At the eastern edge of town by a sign for the park, turn south on East River Road. Keep left at the first fork and right at the next two. After 2.5 miles you will reach the campground.

This 80-acre park is nestled along the Little Missouri River and contains a good stand of cottonwoods and willows surrounded by sagebrush flats and grasslands. There is a high dirt cliff along the eastern edge, where Prairie Falcons sometimes nest and (if you are lucky) Big-horned Sheep play around.

Birds are abundant. One can expect to find most of the typical “badlands” species. Along the river look for Belted Kingfisher, any of the regular swallows, and migrant waterfowl and shorebirds. The sagebrush flats are good for Sharp-tailed Grouse, Gray Partridge, and Field Sparrows. In the cottonwoods and among the tangles of wild rose, snowberry, and currants, you may find Common Flicker (both red-shafted and yellow-shafted races, as well as many hybrids), Downy and Hairy Woodpeckers, Eastern Kingbird, Least and Willow Flycatchers, Western Pewee (rare), Blue Jay, American Crow, White-breasted Nuthatch, Black-capped Chickadee, House Wren, Gray Catbird, Brown Thrasher, Cedar Waxwing, Red-eyed and Warbling Vireos, Yellow and Black-and-white Warblers, Ovenbird, Yellow-breasted Chat, American Redstart, Northern (Bullock’s) Oriole (rare), Black-headed Grosbeak, Lazuli Bunting, Rufous-sided Towhee (spotted form), and Chipping Sparrow. The chat is heard more often than seen, but “pishing” noises are often effective in bringing this species out into the open.

The other top spot in Billings County is the South Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Memorial, for which the exit is well marked along I-94. The entrance is at the western edge of Medora (which you may want to explore). Just inside the park there is a visitors’ center with interpretive displays and a good selection of books dealing with the natural history of the area. The 38-mile scenic loop is an excellent drive for seeing the park and its birds.

There are several prairie-dog towns scattered throughout the park. The first is 3.1 miles up the scenic loop. Check this and other towns for Black-tailed Prairie Dog, Burrowing Owl, and Black-billed Magpie. To the left of the town there is a Sharp-tailed Grouse dancing ground. Look for performing males.

Watch on the left for the turnoff to the Cottonwoods Campground, which is about 5.4 miles from the visitors’ center. This spot lives up to its name in that there are many cottonwoods. It is a good place for Common Flicker, Blue Jay, American Crow, Black-capped Chickadee, Red-eyed and Warbling Vireos, Northern (Bullock’s) Oriole (rare), Black-headed Grosbeak, and Lazuli Bunting. In the summer, there are lots of people in addition to the birds.

A better area can be reached by continuing for 1.0 mile, turning left, and then immediately right to the picnic area. This spot is not only well-wooded, but also it has good patches of secondary growth. Look here for Common Flicker, Willow Flycatcher, Western Pewee, Blue Jay, Black-capped Chickadee, Gray Catbird, Brown Thrasher, Red-eyed and Warbling Vireos, Black-and-white and Yellow Warblers, Ovenbird, Yellow-breasted Chat, American Redstart, Black-headed Grosbeak, Lazuli Bunting, Rufous-sided Towhee, and Chipping Sparrow.

The Jones Creek Trail (1.3 miles past the picnic area) passes through vegetation typical of the park. There is also an excellent stand of sage. Although not many birds are seen along the trail, it is good for Sharp-tailed Grouse, Rufous-sided Towhee, and Field Sparrow.

Most of the park is occupied by short-grass prairie spotted with occasional large sagebrush flats. Many of the rolling hills and ravines are covered with junipers.

In open areas, watch for Swainson’s and Ferruginous Hawks; Prairie Falcon; Golden Eagle; Sharp-tailed Grouse; Black-billed Magpie; Mountain Bluebird; Rufous-sided Towhee (brushier areas); Field, Grasshopper, and Lark Sparrows; McCown’s and Chestnut-collared Longspurs; Bison; White-tailed Jackrabbit; Mule Deer; Gopher Snake; and Prairie Rattlesnake. Check in the vicinity of eroded buttes for Poor-will (rare), Say’s Phoebe, and Rock Wren.

These badlands are fairly good in winter, mainly for raptors and western vagrants. Look for Northern Goshawk (rare), Rough-legged Hawk, Prairie Falcon (rare), and Bald (rare) and Golden Eagles. Townsend’s Solitaires usually winter, and Clark’s Nutcrackers and Gray-crowned Rosy Finches sometimes wander over. In fact, 200 of the latter species were found on a recent Medora Christmas Count. Other species found here are Sharp-tailed Grouse, Ring-necked Pheasant, Great Horned Owl, Hairy and Downy Woodpeckers, Horned Lark, Black-billed Magpie, Black-capped Chickadee, White-breasted and Red-breasted (uncommon) Nuthatches, American Robin, Bohemian and Cedar Waxwings, Northern Shrike, Evening Grosbeak, Purple Finch, Common Redpoll, and American Tree Sparrow.

After visiting the park, it is easy to see how Theodore Roosevelt developed such a keen interest in conservation from having lived here.

NORTHWESTERN NORTH DAKOTA

This sector is known chiefly for its large concentrations of breeding waterfowl and for its prairie specialties, such as the Baird’s Sparrow. The density of nesting waterbirds (not just ducks, but also grebes, cormorants, herons, etc.) is truly spectacular, and the number and abundance of prairie specialties would warm the heart of any lister. Another dimension to this sector (in addition to the lakes, potholes, prairie grasslands, and wooded coulees) is the badlands habitat with many western species at the edge of their ranges.

Because of the unique blend of habitats, the northwestern sector is strongly recommended to the visiting birder for top priority. If you are limited in time, a tour of the North Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park and of the refuges around Kenmare should enable you to see most of the state’s specialties. While a visit between the months of September and April could be more profitably spent in some other part of the state, you could hardly go wrong in visiting here between May and August.

a) Dunn County

As mentioned, badlands habitat does exist in the northwest sector. Its easternmost extension is found around the Little Missouri State Park. To reach it, go north from the town of Killdeer on State Highway 22 for about 17 miles, turn right (east) at the sign for the park, and proceed to the camping area.

This is still a primitive area, and the campground is not developed. All trails are for hiking and horseback riding only. If your time is limited, forget this spot and go on to the North unit of Roosevelt Park. However, if you enjoy the peace and solitude of primitive areas, this is the place for you.

The park has not been birded much, so it is hard to say what you may find. Judging from the habitat, almost any badlands-type bird could be found. Some of the likely ones include Say’s Phoebe, Black-billed Magpie, Mountain Bluebird, and Lazuli Bunting.

b) McKenzie County

One of the most interesting and unique places to bird in the state has to be the North Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Memorial. Most of the western species which inhabit the south unit can be found here also, and most birders who have visited both units agree that the north unit is better. This may be true partly because people-pressure is greater in the south unit, which lies right along the interstate.

To reach the park, go south from Watford City on U.S. Highway 85 for about 15 miles and turn right (west) at the sign. The headquarters are at the entrance.