Part 3

Lake Ashtabula, located predominantly in Barnes County, provides several interesting birding spots. One of the best is around Baldhill Dam. To reach the dam from Valley City, take Main Street East through the downtown area. Take the first right (Central Avenue North) after the city park and follow the signs for Lake Ashtabula, Baldhill Dam, and the Fish Hatchery. At 12th Street Northeast turn right. After 0.3 mile turn left at a sign for the dam. Continue for 0.8 mile and turn left after the grain elevator toward Wesley Acres. After 1.8 miles the fish hatchery will be on your left.

The Valley City National Fish Hatchery grounds provide prime birding for woodland passerines, especially during migration. The ponds are often good in spring and early summer for American White Pelicans, Double-crested Cormorants, Black and Forster’s Terns, and all of the swallows found in the state. Later in summer when the ponds are being drawn down for fish removal, there can be excellent viewing of shorebirds. A display of captive waterfowl is located on the grounds, where you may drool over (but not count) Barnacle Geese and others.

After leaving the hatchery, continue north on the same road, keeping an eye out for Wild Turkeys in the field to your left. These turkeys have been stocked and restocked by the fish and game department until a sizable flock has been built up. The most consistent spot along this road for seeing them is on your left in 2 to 4 miles. The road forks 6.6 miles north of the hatchery. The left fork winds up at Baldhill Dam. By going straight, you will come to a recreation area after 0.8 mile. You can get from one spot to the other by walking the dike.

The area surrounding the dam contains many diversified habitats. Almost any type of bird may be found here: grebe, waterfowl, wader, shorebird, raptor, gallinaceous fowl, gull, tern, or passerine. The grassy hillsides around the parking lot may harbor Ring-necked Pheasants in any season. A footbridge over the dam and onto the dike is a good vantage point, providing a good view of a stretch of the Sheyenne River below the dam. Both Eastern and Western Kingbirds may be seen on the hillsides leading down to the river, and as many as six species of swallows (Cliff, Barn, Tree, Bank, Rough-winged, and Purple Martin) hawk for insects over the river. The Cliff and Tree are the most numerous. American White Pelicans and Black-crowned Night Herons can usually be seen fishing directly below the dam. This is also a good place to check in winter and early spring for Common Goldeneye and Common Merganser. By scanning the sandbars farther downstream, you should be able to find several species of shorebirds during migration. Ring-billed Gulls will be constantly circling overhead from spring to fall. In spring and fall keep your eyes and ears open for flocks of geese and Sandhill Cranes flying overhead.

Across the bridge, there are steps down the side of the dike to several settling ponds which are productive in migration for shorebirds such as Semipalmated Plover, Baird’s Sandpiper, both species of yellowlegs, and Marbled and Hudsonian (rare) Godwits. Franklin’s Gulls may be seen in numbers in spring and fall (especially in October).

If you visit the dam from the recreation area, walk down the side of the dike and check the river at the first point available. The water ends here in a quiet pool surrounded by trees and brush. Oftentimes, a Green Heron will fly as you enter. This has been a consistent spot for it. Black-crowned Night Herons, Wood Ducks, and Spotted Sandpipers are common along the river from here to below the dam. In May the brush and trees are often crawling with warblers. In September and October, the brushy borders are full of sparrows, including Song, Lincoln’s, White-throated, White-crowned, and Harris’.

The wooded ravines will usually produce the following nesting species: Eastern and Western Kingbirds, Great Crested and Least Flycatchers, Eastern Pewee, Cedar Waxwing, Yellow Warbler, Northern Oriole, Indigo Bunting, and Rose-breasted Grosbeak.

From the recreation area continue northeast for 2 miles and turn left (north) on the first intersecting road. After about 2 more miles you will come to a sign reading “Sundstrom’s Landing Recreational Area”. On the right across from the sign, a gravel trail leads up the small hill to some prairie habitat worth investigating. Look for Eastern Bluebird, Dickcissel, and Grasshopper Sparrow. Clay-colored Sparrows are particularly numerous. Before birding this spot continue for 0.2 mile to the recreation area to park your car. For easterners, the bird of most interest is the Western Kingbird, a sure thing at the recreation area. American White Pelicans can be seen from the point, and Western Grebes are occasionally found. Check small wooded ravines in the area for migrant passerines.

One of the best spots in Barnes County for viewing migrating waterfowl and shorebirds is Hobart Lake National Wildlife Refuge. The lake can be seen from I-94, about 7.0 miles west of Valley City. However, there is no place along the interstate to stop and scan. For viewing purposes, take I-94 west from Valley City and turn right (north) at Exit 1 for 1.4 miles to the lake.

Large numbers of Snow and Canada Geese use the refuge in migration, and American White Pelicans are usually present during early and mid-summer. Grebes, shorebirds, and some ducks can be found throughout the summer. The refuge is especially good for Whistling Swans, with up to 1,000 or more present for several weeks in fall.

Continue past Hobart Lake for 2.9 miles to the Sanborn Waterfowl Production Area. This marshy area is good for Soras and Virginia Rails, Marsh Wrens, and, when the water levels are low, shorebirds. Watch also for Le Conte’s and Sharp-tailed Sparrows. Continue west on Highway 1 for another 3.9 miles to check a large alkaline lake that is excellent for shorebirds.

A fruitful spot for migrant and breeding passerines is the Clausen Springs Recreational Area. To reach it, go south on Highway 1 from I-94 for 15.5 miles, turn left (east), and follow the signs to the springs. If you are coming from the south, go north on Highway 1 for 2.0 miles past Highway 46 (not far from Little Yellowstone State Park), turn right (east), and follow the signs.

This can be a delightful spot to bird on a hot summer day! There is a small lake, a pleasant stream, and lots of trees for shade. It is good for all of the regular migrant flycatchers, warblers, vireos, and sparrows. It also attracts some interesting breeding birds, one of which is the Orchard Oriole. This is one of the better spots in the southeastern sector for this species. Other nesting species include Belted Kingfisher, Western Kingbird, Least Flycatcher, Eastern Pewee, House Wren, Eastern Bluebird, Yellow Warbler, Rose-breasted Grosbeak, and Song Sparrow. Clay-colored Sparrows are common on the grassy hillsides, and the lake occasionally attracts some ducks or shorebirds.

f) Stutsman County

The best birding area in this county, Arrowwood National Wildlife Refuge, ranks as one of the best in the state. The starting point is the north edge of Edmunds (northwest of Jamestown on U.S. Highway 281). From here, turn right (east) at the refuge sign onto County Road #44. After 5.4 miles you may turn left to the headquarters, or just beyond you may turn right for the self-guided auto tour.

A visit to the headquarters is suggested, not only for information but also for some good viewing of waterbirds along the way. In summer look for Western, Eared, Horned, and Pied-billed Grebes; American White Pelican; Double-crested Cormorant; numerous ducks; gulls (including an occasional California); terns; shorebirds; swallows; and blackbirds. Ask at the office for a map, checklist, and information on desired species and access to other parts of the refuge.

While here, you may wish to inquire about Chase Lake National Wildlife Refuge, which is administered from Arrowwood. This lake is of interest because it has what is reputed to be the largest nesting colony of American White Pelicans in the world. Large numbers of Double-crested Cormorants and Ring-billed and California Gulls nest here.

Access is limited in order that people will not disturb the birds. The only roads leading to the lake are better described as trails and, for the most part, do not get too close. This is no real loss, because all of the species here can be found easily elsewhere.

The auto tour at Arrowwood is a must. In summer check the boggy areas surrounded by weedy fields at the start of the tour for Willow Flycatcher, Marsh and Sedge Wrens, Bobolink, Dickcissel, and Savannah, Grasshopper, Clay-colored, Le Conte’s (uncommon), and Sharp-tailed (uncommon) Sparrows. Most of the route traverses fine grasslands dotted with many species of shrubs, including silverberry and wolfberry. In these areas watch for Sharp-tailed Grouse, Gray Partridge, Upland Sandpiper, Sprague’s Pipit, Baird’s Sparrow, and Chestnut-collared Longspur.

Other nesting species include Black-crowned Night Heron; American Bittern; Gadwall; Common Pintail; Mallard; Green-winged, Blue-winged, and Cinnamon (rare) Teals; American Wigeon; Northern Shoveler; Wood Duck; Redhead; Ring-necked Duck; Canvasback; Lesser Scaup; Ruddy Duck; Swainson’s Hawk; Northern Harrier; Ring-necked Pheasant; Sora; Virginia Rail; American Coot; Willet; Marbled Godwit; American Avocet; Wilson’s Phalarope; Forster’s and Black Terns; Long-eared Owl (rare); Eastern and Western Kingbirds; Black-billed Magpie (uncommon); Loggerhead Shrike (uncommon); Yellow-headed Blackbird; and Lark Bunting.

g) Kidder County

The Baird’s Sparrow is rather common in the area surrounding Salt Alkaline Lake. To reach the lake take the Crystal Springs Exit (#18) off I-94, drive west on the lateral road along the north side for 1.5 miles, and turn north. After 1.7 miles you will pass a lake on the right side with a sign saying “Waterfowl Production Area”. There is another on the left. Salt Alkaline Lake is 2.7 miles ahead on the left. At 5.0 miles from the freeway, turn left for a closer look.

Both Salt Alkaline Lake and the lake before it have grassy borders, which are summer havens for Baird’s Sparrows. In 1976, Burrowing Owls nested in bordering fields and should be watched for again. Also check for migrant ducks and shorebirds. The mixed-grass prairie along the road is good for Chestnut-collared Longspur.

A prime spot for Sprague’s Pipit is also within easy reach of I-94 in Kidder County. Take the Tappen Exit (#46) and drive 4.0 miles north on County Road #71 to an extensive pond. Check the grassy margins for the pipit. This area has one of the highest breeding densities in the state. For best results the entire marshy area should be skirted. To do so drive another 1.0 mile north, 1.0 mile west, 2.0 miles south, and then 1.0 mile east back to County Road #71. By walking the appropriate grassy edges, you should have little problem in finding the bird. Just remember to respect any “No Trespassing” signs that might be encountered.

Still another great location is the Alkaline Lake Game Area. From Tappen (Exit #46) go south for 15.0 miles on County Road #71, and turn left (east) for 2.6 miles to the lake.

This large alkaline lake is a mecca for waterbirds in spring, summer, and fall. All of the regular grebes of North Dakota occur at one time or another. The Western Grebe nests in abundance. American White Pelicans and Double-crested Cormorants can usually be found, because they range far from their nesting area on Chase Lake. Large numbers of all of the regular ducks, gulls (watch for California), and terns can be expected from April to October. This lake is especially good for shorebirds, among them American Avocet, Semipalmated and Piping (uncommon—nests) Plovers, both yellowlegs, Willet, Stilt Sandpiper, both dowitchers, Ruddy Turnstone (rare), Pectoral Sandpiper, Dunlin (rare), Sanderling, all of the peeps, and Wilson’s and Northern Phalaropes.

The Slade National Wildlife Refuge can be productive for waterbirds, but it is not outstanding. Skip it if time is limited. To reach the refuge take Exit #45 (Dawson) from I-94, and turn south on State Highway 3. After 3.0 miles turn left (east) at the sign. On the way you will pass a nice marsh where large numbers of grebes (especially Eared and Western), ducks, gulls, and terns congregate. Just 0.3 mile after turning there is a fork. Here you may go either straight (east) to the headquarters, or right (south) through a segment of the refuge.

h) Logan County

Probably the best birding in this county lies in and around Beaver Lake State Park. From Napoleon, travel south on State Highway 3 for about eight miles, turn left (east) at the sign, and drive 6.5 miles to Burnstad. At this point there are two routes. The left (north) goes 2.0 miles to the park itself. (There are plenty of signs marking the way.) The other goes south on a dirt road for 1.7 miles to several extensive ponds and marshy areas.

The lake may be good in migration for loons, grebes, waterfowl, pelicans, and cormorants. It has a lot of open water that is deep enough to attract some of the rarer northern ducks such as Oldsquaw, Black Scoter, or White-winged Scoter. The few trees and brushy tangles should be checked in spring and fall for passerines, especially sparrows (The Harris’ can be common at times.).

The ponds south of Burnstad can be particularly productive for all marsh species from spring through fall. Close views may be obtained of American White Pelicans, Double-crested Cormorants, Great Blue Herons, Black-crowned Night Herons, American Bitterns, Soras, Virginia Rails, Black and Forster’s Terns, Marsh Wrens, Common Yellowthroats, Yellow-headed Blackbirds, and almost any grebe, duck, or shorebird common to the state.

SOUTHWESTERN NORTH DAKOTA

The southwest sector will be of the most interest to visitors from the east. While marshlands are generally fewer here, there are still a few areas that attract large numbers of waterbirds. For the most part, all of the North Dakota prairie specialties can be found. The uniqueness of this area lies in its penchant for attracting western species which are marginal in the state.

The infrequent water areas (including wooded river bottoms), the extensive sage prairies, the evergreen forests, and the arid badlands serve to attract species such as Cinnamon Teal, Prairie Falcon, Golden Eagle, Sage Grouse, Mountain Plover (accidental), Long-billed Curlew, California Gull, Burrowing Owl, Poor-will, Lewis’ Woodpecker, Say’s Phoebe, Western Pewee, Black-billed Magpie, Clark’s Nutcracker, Rock Wren, Sage Thrasher, Mountain Bluebird, Townsend’s Solitaire, Blue-gray Gnatcatcher (accidental), Black-headed and Blue Grosbeaks, Lazuli Bunting, Gray-crowned Rosy Finch, Brewer’s Sparrow, and McCown’s Longspur.

Although some of these species should not be expected by the visitor, the true degree of regularity of their occurrence is not really known because of the lack of observers in this area. If you have the spare time for exploring, do it here. Not only may you turn up an exciting western lifer for yourself, you may add to our knowledge of the status of certain marginal species as well.

a) Burleigh County

Water areas (especially large marshes) are relatively few in the southwestern sector. Probably the best of these is Long Lake National Wildlife Refuge. To reach it go south on Highway 83 (Exit 40) from I-94 for 12.0 miles before turning left (east) at the sign. Refuge roads lead around Long Lake and through some good marshes.

During migration, this is one of the best spots in the state. Some of the more interesting migrants are: Whistling Swan; Canada and Greater White-fronted Geese; Cinnamon Teal (rare); Common Goldeneye; Bufflehead; White-winged Scoter (rare); Hooded (rare), Red-breasted (rare), and Common Mergansers; Golden and Bald Eagles (uncommon); Peregrine Falcon (rare); Whooping (rare) and Sandhill Cranes; Semipalmated, Lesser Golden (rare), and Black-bellied (rare) Plovers; Ruddy Turnstone (rare); both yellowlegs; Hudsonian Godwit (rare); Sanderling (rare); Northern Phalarope; Solitary, Pectoral, Baird’s, White-rumped, Least, Stilt, and Semipalmated Sandpipers; Herring, California, and Bonaparte’s Gulls; Sprague’s Pipit; Le Conte’s (rare), Sharp-tailed (rare—may nest), and Harris’ Sparrows; and Lapland Longspur.

Although migration is the most exciting time, the refuge should not be by-passed in summer. Species to be seen then include Horned (uncommon), Eared, Western, and Pied-billed Grebes; American White Pelican; Double-crested Cormorant; Black-crowned Night Heron; American Bittern; Mallard; Gadwall; Common Pintail; Green-winged and Blue-winged Teals; American Wigeon; Northern Shoveler; Redhead; Canvasback; Lesser Scaup; Ruddy Duck; Swainson’s, Red-tailed, and Ferruginous Hawks; Northern Harrier; Sharp-tailed Grouse; Gray Partridge; Virginia Rail; Sora; American Coot; Piping Plover; Killdeer; Willet; Spotted and Upland Sandpipers; American Avocet; Wilson’s Phalarope; Ring-billed and Franklin’s Gulls; Common, Forster’s, and Black Terns; Short-eared Owl; Eastern and Western Kingbirds; all of the regular swallows; Marsh and Sedge Wrens; Loggerhead Shrike; Bobolink; Western Meadowlark; Yellow-headed, Red-winged, and Brewer’s Blackbirds; Dickcissel; Lark Bunting; Grasshopper and Baird’s Sparrows; and Chestnut-collared Longspur.

Another area which is often good is McKenzie Slough. To reach it take Exit #39 off I-94, and go south through McKenzie. The slough begins just south of the town. When water levels are high enough, the following nesting species can be expected: American Bittern, Mallard, Common Pintail, Blue-winged Teal, Gadwall, Ruddy Duck, American Coot, Pied-billed and Eared Grebes, Sora, Marsh Wren, Common Yellowthroat, and Red-winged and Yellow-headed Blackbirds. During migration, this spot attracts many of the same species found at Long Lake. Chestnut-collared Longspurs nest in the pastures along this road (south of the slough).

The city of Bismarck (population 34,703) lies on the east side of the Missouri River in western Burleigh County. Not only is it the state capital, but also it contains a habitat unique in the region—Missouri River bottomland forest. At one time almost four hundred miles of this habitat could be found. It stretched from the South Dakota border in the south-central part of the state to the Montana border in the northwestern part. The construction of dams brought about the subsequent flooding of the bottomlands until the forests had been reduced to a 75-mile stretch between Bismarck and the Garrison Dam and a few miles from Lake Sakakawea to the Montana border. Much of what little remains is being cleared for housing and agriculture.

Nesting species found in this habitat include Red-tailed Hawk; American Kestrel; Wild Turkey; Mourning Dove; Black-billed Cuckoo; Great Horned Owl; Common Flicker; Red-headed, Hairy, and Downy Woodpeckers; Least Flycatcher; Black-capped Chickadee; White-breasted Nuthatch; Blue Jay; Black-billed Magpie; American Crow; House Wren; Brown Thrasher; Gray Catbird; American Robin; Veery; Eastern Bluebird (usually restricted to semi-open areas and adjacent fields); Cedar Waxwing; Red-eyed, Warbling, and Bell’s (rare) Vireos; Black-and-white (uncommon) and Yellow Warblers; Ovenbird; Yellow-breasted Chat; American Redstart; Orchard and Northern Orioles; Common Grackle; Brown-headed Cowbird; Scarlet Tanager (rare); Black-headed Grosbeak; Indigo (uncommon) and Lazuli Buntings; American Goldfinch (open areas); Rufous-sided Towhee; and Chipping, Clay-colored, Field (open areas), and Song Sparrows.

The woodlands bordering the Missouri River are the best places in the Bismarck vicinity to look for migrant passerines, such as Red-breasted Nuthatch; Brown Creeper; Hermit, Swainson’s, and Gray-cheeked Thrushes; Golden-crowned and Ruby-crowned Kinglets; Black-and-white, Tennessee, Orange-crowned, Magnolia, Yellow-rumped, Blackpoll, Palm, and Wilson’s Warblers; Northern Waterthrush; Purple Finch; Northern Junco; and Harris’, White-crowned, White-throated, Fox, and Lincoln’s Sparrows. Birds to watch for in winter include Great Horned Owl, Common Flicker, Hairy and Downy Woodpeckers, Blue Jay, Black-billed Magpie (semi-open areas and margins), Black-capped Chickadee, White-breasted Nuthatch, American Robin, Purple Finch, American Goldfinch, Northern Junco, and American Tree Sparrow (open areas). Both species of waxwings can be found in most years as well.

Typical bottomland habitat can be found near Sibley Island. To reach it start at the Bismarck Airport on the road to the terminal and drive south on Highway 1804 for 2.1 miles. Turn right (west) on a surfaced road. After 0.5 mile you have a choice of continuing straight (west) or turning left (south). To reach the best habitat, turn left and follow the road as it swings to the left. Go 2.2 miles (.5 mile past the bend) and turn right at the sign to the Girl Scout camp.

The road passes through excellent bottomland habitat. This consists mostly of cottonwood, green ash, box elder, and to a lesser extent American elm and bur oak. The understory, which is thick in some areas, includes Wood’s rose, red-osier dogwood, snowberry, bittersweet, and wild grape.

After birding around the camp, drive all the way to the river. From the high banks you will have a good vantage point from which to look over the sandbars for the area’s three specialties—Piping Plovers, Little Terns, and skinny-dippers. The latter species, although cosmopolitan in range, is quite rare in North Dakota. (When present they are “hard to miss”.)

The Piping Plover can sometimes be found in good numbers. This is one of the best areas in the state for them. Likewise, this stretch of the river is the only known nesting site for the Little Tern in North Dakota. When looking for them, remember that their locations vary from year to year, depending on the sandbars. The best way to find them is to check as many points along the river as possible. A spotting scope would be very useful in looking for all three aforementioned species.

If you do not get the plover or tern here, backtrack 2.2 miles to the fork before the Girl Scout camp and turn left (west). Drive 0.5 mile to 12th Street or 1.5 miles to Washington Street. By taking either south you will eventually reach the river. The view at the end of Washington Street is better, but access may be difficult if the river is high. During migration you may want to check General Sibley Park along Washington Street for passerines.

b) Morton County

The city of Mandan lies in Morton County just across the Missouri River from Bismarck. Most of the birds here are about the same as on the other side of the river, but there are some important exceptions.

To reach the best spots, take I-94 west to Mandan and turn off onto Main Street (I-94/Highway 10 Business Loop). Turn left (south) on 6th Avenue Southeast at the sign to Fort Lincoln State Park. This street becomes Highway 1806 and leads to most of the better birding spots.