A Birder's Guide to North Dakota
Part 2
The southeast sector is probably the least glamorous as far as birders are concerned. It cannot offer the western specialties of the southwest nor the northern species of the northeast, and it does not have the reputation of the northwest for prairie species. Despite these deficits, the southeast quarter offers some of the best birding in the state.
Contained within its boundaries is some of the finest prairie-pothole habitat in the country. This is the breeding ground for thousands of ducks and other marsh species. Adjacent to the countless seasonal and permanent ponds are broad expanses of mixed-grass prairie, which support large numbers of Upland Sandpipers, Sprague’s Pipits, Baird’s Sparrows, Chestnut-collared Longspurs, and other prairie specialities of great interest to the birder.
This quarter also offers excellent bottomland habitat along portions of the Red, James, and Sheyenne Rivers. These floodplain forests support an avifauna typical of eastern deciduous forests, thus making it attractive to western birders. Large numbers of eastern warblers pass through during migration, and on good days one may find as many as twenty species (possibly more).
Marshlands in the southeast corner attract southern species, such as the Little Blue Heron and King Rail. All in all, the southeast sector offers a very diverse avifauna, and it should not be ignored by the visiting birder.
a) Cass County
The city of Fargo (population 53,000—largest in North Dakota) lies in the highly agricultural Red River Valley and is separated from Minnesota only by the river. Birds found here are basically eastern in nature.
The Red River and its adjacent woodlands act as a funnel for migrating passerines and provide food and cover in winter for the few species which decide to stick out the long period of cold weather. Because of this, wooded areas along the river are the most productive spots.
Probably the best place along the river is Lindenwood Park, which can be reached in several ways. Coming from the east, take Interstate 94 west from Moorhead, Minnesota. Turn right on the first exit after crossing into North Dakota. This leads onto South University Drive. Stay in the far right lane and turn right at the first signal light onto 18th Avenue South. Go one block to the park entrance.
Beyond the entrance, the road forks. The right leads through the park. The left (South Lindenwood Drive) follows the river for 0.8 mile and is usually better for birding, because it is less crowded and has a greater edge effect. South Lindenwood Drive is bordered in part on the left by a large grassy triangle and on the right by a good variety of trees and shrubs along the river.
Close to 175 species have been recorded here in the past ten years. Most of the birds are characteristic of the eastern deciduous forest. Exceptions include the Western Kingbird, Bobolink, Clay-colored Sparrow, and Savannah Sparrow. All of these can often be seen from May to July in the grassy triangle. In July the vegetation is cut, and the birds leave.
In migration the park is a mecca for flycatchers, thrushes, vireos, warblers, and sparrows. All of the eastern _Empidonax_ flycatchers (except the Acadian) can be found regularly, as can the Olive-sided Flycatcher and Eastern Phoebe. All of the spot-breasted thrushes except the Wood Thrush may be seen in good numbers every spring, and even it manages to put in an appearance each year. Five species of vireos can be seen in spring, the best of which is the Philadelphia Vireo. Also occurring with regularity are twenty species of warblers, including Orange-crowned, Cape May, Bay-breasted, and Connecticut.
Of all the fringillids using the park in migration, the most sought-after is the Harris’ Sparrow. Fargo lies in its relatively narrow migratory range. It may be seen (both spring and fall) in good numbers at all parks in the area.
The following breeding species are shared with most other parks and wooded habitats in the area: Wood Duck; Black-billed Cuckoo; Mourning Dove; Great Horned Owl; Common Flicker; Red-headed, Hairy, and Downy Woodpeckers; Great Crested and Least Flycatchers; Eastern Pewee; American Crow; Blue Jay; Black-capped Chickadee; White-breasted Nuthatch; House Wren; Gray Catbird; Brown Thrasher; Cedar Waxwing; Yellow-throated, Red-eyed, and Warbling Vireos; Yellow Warbler; Northern Oriole; Rose-breasted Grosbeak; Indigo Bunting; and Chipping and Song Sparrows.
In winter check for owls, waxwings (Bohemian is common some winters), grosbeaks (mainly Evening but some Pine), siskins, and crossbills (both species).
Another productive location is the Riverside Cemetery. To get there from Lindenwood Park turn left back onto 5th Street South. Go south for about three blocks to the cemetery on the left. Although it attracts nowhere near the number of birds that Lindenwood does, you are never bothered by crowds of people, and it can be good in migration for warblers and thrushes. Things are usually pretty dead in summer, but in winters when there is an eruption of northern finches the cemetery is good for Red Crossbills, Pine Siskins, and Pine Grosbeaks.
Oak Grove Park has essentially the same avifauna as Lindenwood Park. To reach it from Lindenwood, turn right (north) on 5th Street South and right on 13th Avenue South at the water treatment plant. Turn left on 4th Street South and go several blocks until you come to the YMCA, on the left. Turn right at the signal light, and follow the road as it bends around the river. Continue under the railroad tracks and past the civic center on Second Street North. Take the first right after the Shakey’s Pizza House (left side). There should be a sign pointing the way to Oak Grove High School. After a few blocks the street becomes South Terrace, which leads to the park just beyond the school gymnasium.
Most of the birds will be the same as those seen at Lindenwood, although three species—the Common Screech-Owl, Pileated Woodpecker, and Northern Cardinal—are more easily found here. The owl (seldom seen) is most often heard calling on summer evenings from the trees across the river from the athletic field. The woodpecker, which ranges widely along the river in winter, has nested in the immediate vicinity in recent years. The Northern Cardinal can be seen almost anywhere along the river in winter (usually at feeding stations), but it is seen here more than anywhere else during spring and summer. The Wood Duck and Spotted Sandpiper seem to prefer this undisturbed stretch of the river.
Another good spot is not far from Oak Grove. From the park backtrack on South Terrace and turn right on the first street beyond Fossom Hall, or, if you wish, on the alley just behind it. Turn left on North Terrace, and, when the street forks, go right on North River Road, which ends at Mickelson Field. Most of this area has been converted into ball diamonds, but there is still a strip of trees following the river which can be productive on early mornings in migration. Walking is easy on the bike trail, so a good stretch of the river can be readily covered. In the early evening listen for the Common Screech-Owl, and keep an eye out for Common Nighthawks and Chimney Swifts cruising over the ball diamonds. Along the open stretch of the river, look for both Eastern and Western Kingbirds. Check the banks closely for Wood Duck broods and Spotted Sandpipers. Dead snags hanging over the water are favorite perches of Belted Kingfishers and flycatchers.
Try walking north along the river to the dam. There is always some open water which attracts over-wintering waterfowl, including an occasional Common Goldeneye. Winter birds here are typical of the ones found along the Red River in the Fargo area—Great Horned Owl; Pileated, Hairy, and Downy Woodpeckers; Common Flicker; American Crow; Blue Jay; Black-capped Chickadee; White-breasted and Red-breasted Nuthatches; Brown Creeper; Cedar and Bohemian Waxwings; Northern Cardinal; Evening and Pine Grosbeaks; Purple Finch; American Goldfinch; Pine Siskin; Red and White-winged Crossbills; Northern Junco; and White-throated Sparrow.
Keep in mind that although some birds are often easy to find in winter, their abundance varies drastically from year to year. The resident birds are fairly stable, but winter visitors, such as the waxwings and finches, may be everywhere one year and nowhere the next. Keep an eye out for feeders, which are often the best places to find the northern finches. If you have time for only one spot in spring, summer, or fall, your best bet is Lindenwood Park. Under similar conditions in winter try the Riverside Cemetery.
If you still have not found a Bohemian Waxwing, try driving through the residential areas, keeping your eyes trained on the tops of bare trees and on the ground near berry bushes. (It might also be wise to watch the road from time to time.) The waxwings are especially fond of crab-apples and highbush cranberries. This bird is very erratic, but in years when it is common it can be found almost anywhere. Your first look may be of a group of 20 or more perched high in a tree.
There should be no problem in separating this species from the Cedar Waxwing, which is smaller and yellower in color. A good field mark for the Bohemian is the reddish under-tail coverts. In flight the waxwings give a Starling-like appearance.
If you are here in winter and need a respite from the cold, hop into your car and try some open-country birding. Some good birds may be found without leaving the warmth of the car. Using this technique, you will really have to explore on your own. Take any of the main roads out of Fargo, and go wherever the habitat and the plowed roads lead you. One area in general that is usually pretty good can be reached by going south on I-29 for about 6.0 miles from I-94. Then go about three miles west to the town of Horace, and work your way south and west from there.
A word of caution should be heeded before setting out on back roads. Snow and mud, which may prevail from December through early April, can make these roads unfit for travel, especially for a large vehicle such as a motor home. Many roads are little traveled, and help may be a long time in coming. Being stranded in a North Dakota snowstorm is no joke.
Birding country roads can be productive from September through April. At the right time in fall, hawks may be everywhere. On some days in late September, every other post seems to have a hawk on it. Most will be Red-tails and Northern Harriers, but watch for Swainson’s and Ferruginous. If you are really living right, you may even turn up a Peregrine Falcon. In September and October the fence lines, ditches, and sloughs may hold a variety of sparrows, such as Savannah, Vesper, Field, American Tree, Lincoln’s, White-throated, and Harris’. In October and November, and again in March and April, watch for longspurs, which occur by the thousands in some fields (look especially around marshy areas in fall). Check carefully for a Smith’s or a Chestnut-collared, although the vast majority will be Laplands. Two other birds to look for in October and November are the Rough-legged Hawk and Short-eared Owl. A few of each usually winter, but most occur only as late migrants. The owl is somewhat diurnal and is often seen cruising over the fields like a large, tawny moth.
Few species are found in the open areas in winter, but the ones present are pretty choice. Large flocks of Snow Buntings will usually be the most conspicuous birds. Buntings and Horned Larks often feed right along the road. American Goldfinches and Common Redpolls are often abundant in weed-filled ditches or in sunflower fields. Check redpoll flocks closely for a Hoary, which is uncommon, but in good years not especially hard to find.
Color in redpolls varies, so a light-colored bird does not always signify a Hoary. The best field mark is the unstreaked, white rump. Fortunately, this species has a habit of holding the wings in such a way that the rump can be clearly seen.
Gray Partridge are often found in small flocks in the fields. At a distance they look like large clumps of dirt against the white snow. Rusty Blackbirds are sometimes encountered around farms. Watch also for Northern Shrikes, which are usually perched in some conspicuous spot. This species seems to prefer the sloughs, where there is an abundance of the mice, voles, and shrews upon which it feeds.
Probably the most sought-after of the winter species is the Snowy Owl. This bird may be seen right along I-29 on poles and signs. In some years it is almost common, but hard to see if it is out in the middle of a snow-covered field, where it can look amazingly like another lump of snow-covered sod. Occasionally, it may linger until early April. When some of the snow has melted, it is easier to see.
In April and May, flooded fields often make for good shorebirding with several species present, including large numbers of Lesser Golden and Black-bellied Plovers and such rarities as the Buff-breasted Sandpiper.
For shorebirding, one area stands out—the North Fargo Sewage Lagoons. Start at the Beef and Bun Drive-In on the corner of 19th Avenue and North University Drive in Fargo. Turn right on Cass County Road #31 and go past the airport.
At County Road #20 jog left for 0.3 mile, and continue right again on County Road #31 (gravel surface). Drive 2.5 miles and stop on the right at the home of Art Lies. Ask for the key to the gate at the lagoons. Make sure to explain that you are a birder, because illegal shooting has occurred in the past. Art is a birder and will be able to tip you off to any rare visitors at the lagoons.
From the house go a mile straight down the road, watching and listening for Western Kingbirds, Dickcissels, and Clay-colored and Savannah Sparrows. When the road winds to the right, continue straight at the yield sign. The dikes on your left can be driven, so continue to the gate, drive through, and make sure to reclose the lock.
There are six lagoons, and the bird life is different at each. Because the water levels are constantly changed and controlled, this area is especially productive during dry summers when the potholes in the area dry up. Check the ponds with low water levels for shorebirds, pipits, and longspurs.
Twenty-seven species of shorebirds have been found; most are typical of similar habitat throughout the area—American Avocet; Lesser Golden Plover (peak numbers have reached 6500 in late September); Black-bellied Plover; Semipalmated Plover; Killdeer; Ruddy Turnstone; Marbled Godwit; Willet; Red Knot; Dunlin; Sanderling; Lesser and Greater Yellowlegs; Short-billed and Long-billed Dowitchers; Solitary, Spotted, Stilt (often in large numbers), Pectoral, Baird’s, Least, White-rumped, Semipalmated, and Western (uncommon) Sandpipers; Common Snipe; and Northern and Wilson’s Phalaropes.
Both Sprague’s and Water Pipits occur in migration (most commonly in fall and mostly in October). The latter species is much more common. Longspurs appear by the thousands in October, especially in the fields and ditches surrounding the lagoons. Although the majority will be Laplands, check carefully for Smith’s and Chestnut-collared. Snow Buntings can often be found by driving the dikes in November.
The ponds with deeper water are the ones to check for ducks and grebes. Large concentrations occur in April, September, and October, when close to twenty species of ducks and geese may be found. The geese are more often seen resting on mud bars or on the dikes than on the water. Most will be Canadas and Snows (both phases), but a few Greater White-fronteds are seen. All of the ducks and grebes normal to the area can be expected, and the lagoons have even managed to attract such rarities (for this part of the state) as Oldsquaw (very early spring), Greater Scaup (possibly regular but overlooked), White-winged Scoter, and Red-necked Grebe. Other species found at the lagoons in the past include Double-crested Cormorant, Sora, Franklin’s Gull, Bonaparte’s Gull, and Black Tern. The gulls alone have presented quite a spectacle on different occasions, with peak numbers of over 30,000 Franklin’s and 200 Bonaparte’s present at one time.
Make sure to lock the gate on the way out and return the key. Remember, the accessibility of this area in the future depends upon you.
Another fruitful spot for transient shorebirds and waterfowl is the West Fargo Sewage Lagoons. To reach them, start at the signal light at Main Avenue and 1st Street in West Fargo. Travel 1.0 mile north, turn left (west), and continue for 1.0 mile to the lagoons. The water levels are usually rather high, so shorebirds are not abundant. However, these ponds do attract a large variety, including some of the larger ones such as Marbled and Hudsonian Godwits. When the grassy ditches bordering the ponds are filled with water, it is not unusual to find Common Snipe and Wilson’s Phalarope.
The main attraction is the number of waterfowl using the lagoons in migration. April seems to be the best month. The ducks, all in their best spring plumages, appear to cover the water’s surface. The Lesser Scaup is usually the most numerous, but several other species vie for second honors. Mallards, Common Pintails, Gadwall, American Wigeon, Northern Shovelers, Blue-winged Teal, Redheads, Canvasbacks, Ring-necked Ducks, Ruddy Ducks, and Common Mergansers are usually common every spring. Other species occurring in smaller numbers are Green-winged Teal, Wood Duck, Common Goldeneye, and Bufflehead. The birder who has the patience to check out all of the ducks present may turn up something extra-special such as a Greater Scaup, Oldsquaw, White-winged Scoter, Red-breasted Merganser, or Hooded Merganser. Common Loons; Eared, Horned, and Pied-billed Grebes; Whistling Swans; Canada, Snow, and Greater White-fronted Geese; and Northern Harriers also visit the lagoons at some time.
b) Richland County
To reach what may be the best river-bottom habitat in the southeast sector, start from the town of Leonard (southern-most Cass County) and go 1.0 mile south on State Highway 18. Turn left (east) on State Highway 46 and go 5.0 miles before turning right (south) on Highway 18 again as it leaves Highway 46. Drive 4.0 miles and turn right (west). (If you miss the turn, in another mile you will come to the Sheyenne River.) Go 5.0 miles and turn left (south). Stay on this road as it begins to follow the river east. After about 5 miles, you may start birding.
This area is well-wooded with American elm, green ash, bur oak, basswood, and many other species. There is also a lush under-story. It is typical of Sheyenne River bottomlands throughout the area with one important difference: this area is not posted nor fenced. It is one of the few good stretches still open to the public. The birds are representative of deciduous forest communities in this sector of the state. Migrants pass through in large numbers, and, because of the great amount of habitat available, this area holds one of the highest densities of wintering birds in the state.
Three species could be considered as specialties of the area—Barred Owl, Pileated Woodpecker, and Scarlet Tanager. All nest in the vicinity. This is the only area in the state where the Barred Owl is known to nest, and the other two species are quite restricted as well.
After 7.6 miles turn left (north) at the 4-H sign. After 2.3 miles you will reach the road on which you entered. Turn right (east) and continue 4.0 miles back to Highway 18.
c) Sargent County
The Tewaukon National Wildlife Refuge, an area for transient and nesting waterfowl and marsh species, can be reached by starting just north of Cayuga at State Highway 11 and going south on County Road #12 through the town. After 4.7 miles you may turn left on a dirt road, which wraps around Lake Tewaukon. However, you may wish to continue on to the headquarters (turn left at a sign 5.5 miles south of starting point) to get a map, bird-list, and current information on birds and road conditions.
There are four large water-areas on the refuge—Lake Tewaukon, Cutler Marsh, White Lake, and Clouds Lake. All are supplied by the Wild Rice River and its tributaries. The refuge also contains several hundred acres of upland terrain dotted with potholes.
Perhaps the most spectacular aspect of the bird life is the numbers of geese which stop here in migration. Spring flights are greater than those in fall, with peak populations of over 100,000 geese (mostly Snow Geese of both color phases) present at one time. In addition, large numbers of ducks pass through, and several species nest. Eared, Western and Pied-billed Grebes all nest, and small numbers of American White Pelicans and Double-crested Cormorants can be seen throughout the summer.
Although the great numbers of geese usually get the most raves from out-of-staters, there is a more interesting side to the refuge from the North Dakota birder’s standpoint. It and other similar marshlands in the southeastern sector draw into the state several species with more southern affinities. A good example is the Great Egret. A rare migrant and late-summer visitor over the rest of the state, here, it is fairly common in late summer. Other species which could fall into such a category include Little Blue Heron, Cattle and Snowy Egrets, Least Bittern, White-faced Ibis, American Black Duck, and King Rail. All are decidedly rare, not only here but throughout the state. Although most occur every year, they are not to be expected by the visiting birder, but they do show the potential of the area.
Besides attracting all of the common migratory shorebirds, the refuge can boast of nesting Willets, Marbled Godwits, and Upland Sandpipers. Soras and Virginia Rails are fairly common in the marshy areas, as are Marsh and Sedge Wrens. Sharp-tailed and Le Conte’s Sparrows are uncommon nesters in wet, grassy areas. The Swamp Sparrow (fairly common in migration) should be watched for in summer, because there are a few colonies nesting in the county. Yellow-headed Blackbirds are abundant, and in some years Short-eared Owls nest. Some of the more interesting upland species include Gray Partridge, Bobolink, Dickcissel, Lark Bunting, Grasshopper Sparrow, Clay-colored Sparrow, and Chestnut-collared Longspur.
d) Ransom County
A nice woodland area may be reached by going west on State Highway 46 from State Highway 32 about four miles west of Enderlin. Go 12.6 miles and turn left (south) at the sign to Little Yellowstone State Park.
This park is not an outstanding birding spot, but it can be good in spring and fall, and it does offer a pleasant spot to camp. It is well wooded and therefore good for any of the species typical of this habitat, as well as for accipiters and owls (Great Horned and Common Screech). Most of the transient warblers found at Fargo also occur here, although some of the more marginal eastern species, such as the Northern Parula, are not to be expected this far west. Large numbers of sparrows frequent the brushier areas during migration. Some of the more abundant species include White-throated, White-crowned, Harris’, Lincoln’s, American Tree, and Field Sparrows.
e) Barnes County